Seville Between Rice Paddies and Salt Marshes
The Guadalquivir Salt Marshes
Stretching across a tract of some 2,000 km2 in the river estuary, between Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, they are part of the Doñana National Park, one of Europe’s largest wetlands. It is home to over 100 bird species which are endemic to the ecosystem and create a stunning spectacle whenever they take off into flight. A land where the birds can be imagined playing flamenco, and the red crabs clapping in unison.
The area provides ideal itineraries for what seasoned travellers like best – to wander off on their own. Literally getting lost here, however, is not that difficult, what with hundreds of unmarked footpaths winding between the rice fields.
Seville’s Amazon
Our itinerary starts along the course of the Guadalquivir and its countless effluents branching off near the river mouth, a picture postcard reminiscent of the Amazon. Located here is Isla Mayor, a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants. Surrounded by grasslands and crop fields, the town appears to turn into a genuine island when flooded. For hiking enthusiasts, there are also a number of routes through the town which can be done by bicycle.
Canoeing devotees should make a point of visiting the Brazo de los Jerónimos, a canal thick with reeds and rushes, which makes paddling along it a unique experience.
Going Back In Time
Crossing from one bank of the Guadalquivir to the other can only be done by taking the Coria del Río ferry. This delightful crossing spanning 300 metres in just 3 minutes is reminiscent of some fast-paced American movie set on the Mississippi or in the Everglades. The crossing takes place with passengers jostling for space with cars, tractors, fishermen, goats and farm motorcycles and is an experience in which time seemingly stands still.
A stunning sight to be had from the riverbank is when a merchant or cruise vessel sails inland with the high tide just a few metres away, bound for the port of Seville, or in the direction of the Atlantic. This astonishing, surreal image will remain in your mind’s eye forever.
Having reached Coria, the itinerary takes us downstream as far as Puebla del Río, along the Calle Arrozal, a land trail winding between poplars and carpeted in spring with grass and wild flowers. On this side of the river, you have the chance to visit such towns as Poblado de las Colinas or Utrera.
Finger-licking Cuisine
After a boat ride, it’s time to enjoy some molletes (muffins) ortoast with colorá lard to regain your strength. This is the most traditional breakfast in the area and any bar worth its salt will offer this spread based on pork lard sprinkled with speckles of meat condimented with garlic, red pepper, oregano, bay leaf and other spices. Even Paco de Lucía himself was bowled over by this delight on the senses, to which he dedicated a few notes and chords in some of his more celebrated melodies.
But, the culinary offerings of these Sevillian wetlands go much further still. Indeed, they are as varied as the landscape itself.
If you happen to be here in June, you can attend the Feria y Fiestas del Arroz y del Cangrejo (Fair and Festival of Rice and Crab), which lasts for five days and provides such typical dishes as tomato crab, crab tails with garlic or sauce, pepper shrimps, duck with rice and salted bleaks.
Restaurants like El Tejao, Sevruga or El Estero offer delicious dishes of crab, elvers, duck, giltheads or bass, served up with the inevitable rice, on the banks of the Guadalquivir.
To taste another essential dish in this area, pheasant with rice, head for the Arco de Colina restaurant – their quality and prices will leave you aghast.
Dare to venture into the Guadalquivir salt marshes? Check out your Vueling to Seville here.
Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Las mejor paella valenciana
No other Spanish dish has spread throughout the world like the Valencian paella. Along with toros and sangria, these are the very first words all tourist learn when they step on these lands. Likewise, when they get to Spain, they are flooded with posters of "typical spanish" or "spanish paella" to end up having any low quality mixture of rice or directly frozen, nothing to do with the original recipe.
No other course shows as much controversy in its preparation and ingredients required like it. As it happens with other traditional dishes such as the fabada in Asturiana or the Andalusian gazpacho, when the valencians speak about paella they light up watching the original recipe distorted.
Imagine that there is even a wikipaella to protect and defend the original paella where the basic rules of the Valencian paella are manifested. Such as:"The original paella has its origin in the Valencian community", "The best paellas are cooked with firewood and rice from the Valencian community" or "authentic paellas are made according the tradition of each area of the Valencian community ".
In general, there is consensus that the authentic Valencian paella uses other ingredients besides rice, the garrofón -big beans-, chicken, rabbit, ripe tomato, ferradura beans - flat green beans- olive oil, salt, water and saffron. And in some cases they also add snails, rosemary or paprika.
Some will say that the best paella is the one they eat at home - and they are probably right-but if you go to Valencia and want to eat some of the best paellas in the world, you can find some of the winners and finalists of the Sueca’s International Paella Competition , a prestigious international competition that rewards those cooks who prepare the best Valencian paella of the world.
Restaurant Ampar (third winner of the 2014 edition)
Navarro Reverter Avenue, 14, 46004 Valencia
The Ampar restaurant, located on the ground floor of the Hotel Hospes Palau de la Mar, in the historic center of Valencia, won the third prize in the 2014 Sueca’s International Paella Competition .The first prize went to the Miguel y Juani restaurant –from the chefs Julian Garcia and Mercedes Vacas – from Alcudia (Mallorca), where 35 of the best paella cooks were brought together.
Casa Picanterra, from Cullera (second prize of the 2013 edition)
Calle den picanterra nº3, 46400 Cullera
In 2013, the Picanterra chefs won the second prize of the contest.
El Redolí, from El Palmar (finalistas edición 2013)
Calle del Arzobispo Aliaga, 0, 46012 Palmar, Valencia
Other restaurants in Valencia where paella is prepared according to the original recipe:
La Pepica
Passeig de Neptú, 6, 46011 València
Casa Ripoll
Playa de la Malvarrosa, Paseo Marítimo, Módulo 7, 46011 València
Casa Roberto
Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo, 19, 46005 València
La Riuà
Carrer del Mar, 27, 46003 València
Casa Carmela
Calle Isabel de Villena, 155, 46011 València
Restaurante la Herradura
Paseo Marítimo, módulo 2 (Malvarrossa), 46011 Valencia
El Racó de la Paella
Carrer de Mossèn Rausell, 17, 46015 València
Picture from Jan Harenburg
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
more info5 tips to enjoy the gastronomy in Vigo
1. - Seafood, seafood and more seafood
Vigo is a paradise for the senses but, especially, for the taste of gourmet travellers. There is no doubt that the main product here is fish and seafood, which you can find in its diversity at the old fisherman’s quarter of O Berbés or around O Pedra market.
One of the most interesting places is Fish Street, which offers a unique spectacle when ostreras tirelessly open oysters on the street while preparing the dishes. You can buy oysters directly to them, give them a squeeze of lemon and you eat them accompanied by a good Albariño. There is no such a better pleasure!
But, although oysters are one of the products Vigo is better known for, we cannot forget mussels, modest and versatile. You can try them in many different ways at the mejillonería Tarugo (C/Carral, 9). Affordable portions and rare options are available, like the curry or beer mussels.
In order to eat the best seafood you should go to Bar el Puerto (Rua Arenal, 30). More than 50 years of experience attests to the recognition of this restaurant. When you seat at your table, you will find out there is no menu; the waitress will tell you directly the fish and dish of the day. Other well-recognized seafood restaurants in the area are Follas Novas or Casa Marco but, generally speaking, any option around here is worth going if you are looking for good seafood, at a reasonable price.
Furthermore, Vigo celebrates many food festivals and events during the year and is possible your visit coincides with one of these activities. The most popular is Fiesta del Mejillón (Mussel party) in Vigo, happening in September. In the same month, there is a party dedicated to seafood at the harbor in Vigo and another celebrating the best seafood cuisine at Bouzas quarter.
2. - Appetizers time
Visitar Vigo es una excelente oportunidad para disfrutar de un ritual inevitables como el aperitivo de tapas y cañas a los que los vigueses tienen una férrea devoción, especialmente los sábados y domingos por la mañana: el paseo y el aperitivo de antes de comer.
One of the most famous places to take an appetizer is the Don Gregorio café. The tables are full of icing must (mosto con guinda), which is what everyone orders here.
You can also go for an aperitif to Puerta del Sol or anywhere at Plaza Constitución and its surrounding.
3. - Terraces in Vigo
The people from Vigo are always aware of the weather to go to pleasant terraces when the sun shines. It is always a great pleasure in this city.
One of the nicest terraces are Grettel (Plaza de la Constitución, 10), right in the old historic quarter of the city, where you can enjoy a refreshing drink under the stone porch.
You can also sit at the terrace in Detrás do Marco (C/Londres), a bit hidden by the Principe street, to relax a bit, away from the crowd in she shopping area.
4. -Come up to a Furancho
Furanchos are venues or private homes in which buy excess wine or try on the spot accompanied by a good home cooked meal. Usually, served with tortillas, empanadas, meats, sausages and cheeses in a family atmosphere at a great price.In the area of Vigo ther is over a dozen to choose , in which attention is always exquisite!.
5. - And when night falls…
The best option is to visit one of the modern pubs and terraces in the city. For example, Albatros is a cozy and modern place with a nice view by the estuary. You can find it at the rebuilt seaport.
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more infoA German Christmas in Birmingham
A trip to Birmingham in the period from mid-November to the run-up to Christmas has a surprising added enticement, particularly for lovers of Christmas markets. That is when the Frankfurt Christmas Market and Craft Fair is held, a market in the purest German style in Britain’s second largest city. What’s more, it is the largest market of this type both in the United Kingdom and outside German itself. Not to be scoffed at!
For a few weeks, a number of quaint wooden stalls transform the city centre into a picturesque village revolving around the theme of Christmas. This magnificent market is sited in Birmingham’s emblematic Victoria Square – the heart of the city, with its Town Hall and Council House – as well as in Chamberlain Square and Centenary Square. As befits the occasion, Christmas lights and decoration are very much in evidence there.
So, what can visitors expect to find in the market? First, all kinds of Christmas decoration and gift objects, most of them hand made, such as wooden toys, candles and dolls. A large portion of the market is dedicated to craftwork sourced both locally and abroad.
Additionally, in line with German Christmas markets, fair-goers can spice up their visit by trying some of the German and Austrian culinary delicacies on offer: German sausage, pretzels, schnitzel, German beer, like weissbier (wheat beer), the popular mulled wine known as glühwein and hot chocolate. The market also offers attractions, ideal when accompanied by children, and the atmosphere is gingered up by live music.
More Christmas Shopping
In you haven’t had enough with just the market and require a stiffer spot of Christmas shopping, Birmingham is the perfect place to splash out. Here are some relevant recommendations:
Bullring. the city’s shopping area par excellence. It runs from New Street to St Martin’s Church and features no fewer than 160 shops, as well as two department stores. You are unlikely to remain impassive at the sight of the stunningSelfridgesbuilding, designed by the Future Systems architects studio and a veritable icon of the city.
Jewellery Quarter. As its name indicates, this is where jewellery business are concentrated. Here, 40% of the United Kingdom’s jewellery is produced. Located in downtown Birmingham, it boasts a tradition going back several centuries. The quarter houses some 100 retail outlets where you can purchase both new pieces and vintage jewels by weight.
Great Western Arcade. A shopping arcade located between Colmore Row and Temple Row, in the heart of the city. One of its major attractions are the premises themselves, as the stores are housed in an elegant Victorian building.
Custard Factory. Enthusiasts of things original and striking will find themselves at home on these premises, the former Bird’s Custard factory, situated in the industrial district of Digbeth. The interior is taken up artists’ and creatives’ studios, side by side with shops and bars where you can take a breather. There is a grand total of 30 stores displaying the latest trends in fashion, vintage garments, contemporary jewellery, artworks, bicycles, skateboards and many other things.
Mailbox. If exclusive design and luxury brands are for you, look no further than this shopping area located in Commercial Street. This complex includes the BBC Birmingham studios, the Harvey Nichols luxury department store, and two hotels. The back of the building, which gives onto a canal, is full of terraces with bars and restaurants for you to relax in after all your hectic shopping.
Ready for a Christmas shopping spree in Birmingham? Check out your flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Horst Gutmann, Custard Factory, Basti V, Tony Hisgett, Guy Evans
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