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The Palio di Siena

Situated some 75 kilometres south of Florence, Siena is a must-visit spot on any route through Tuscany. The architectural beauty of its historic centre, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995, is one of its major draws. A former marketplace, the Piazza del Campo –popularly known as Il Campo – is the undisputed centrepiece of the city’s social life and the ideal point of departure for sightseeing in Siena.

The square was paved in 1327 and divided into nine sections, one for each of the Noveschi – the nine oligarchs that ruled the city. It still transports the visitor to medieval times, due in part to the buildings around its perimeter, notably the Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia. The former, also known as the Palazzo Comunale, was built in the early 14th century. Located on the south side of the square, it houses the Museo Civico. The campanile on this palace is called the Torre del Mangia. A veritable icon of the city, its height of 102 metres affords the best panoramic views of Siena. At the top of the square is the Fonte Gaia, built to facilitate the channelling of water to the city centre. The fountain now on the site is a replica of the original, sculpted by Jacopo della Quercia, while the original is on view in the museum at Santa Maria della Scala.

A Medieval Tradition Which Never Ages

This square is actually the centre stage of one of the defining moments in the life of this beautiful Tuscan city – the celebration of the Palio di Siena. Every year the festivity attracts both locals and hordes of tourists, eager to relive a tradition which never seems to have aged. The focal point of this famous race is the Piazza del Campo. Once it is adorned with all the celebratory trappings, including flags and people dressed in period costumes, it is well nigh impossible for visitors to avoid feeling swept back to another time in history.

The key dates for the Palio, the origins of which go back to the 16th century, are2 July,with the running of the Palio di Provenzano (in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano), and16 August,when it is the turn of the Palio dell’Assunta (in honour of the Assumption of Mary). These are the two dates you need to jot down in your diary if you want to experience the most authentic moments in the life of Siena, or as dates to avoid, if you don’t fancy being swamped by crowds. On those two days, the Piazza del Campo is transformed into a thrilling, fast-paced horse race which actually only lasts for a mere two minutes. The participants consist of representatives of the sixteen contrade (parish districts), who vie for the honour of seizing the palio, a silk standard. By way of a warm-up in the days preceding the race, all sorts of competitions are held in a festive mood around the city, enhanced by the sight of colourful period costumes.

Visiting the City

Apart from the highly popular Piazza del Campo, Siena also has other interesting sights worth seeing on your visit to the city. One such landmark is the Duomo (Siena Cathedral), in Italian Gothic style, which houses works by Pisano, Donatello, Michelangelo and Bernini. One unusual feature is to be found in the floor, which has 56 panels depicting Biblical scenes, some of which can only be viewed in September and October as they are covered for conservation purposes. Also in the Piazza del Duomo is the Museo dell’Opera, with sculptures that were previously housed in the Cathedral, and the Santa Maria della Scala complex, a former hospital which now houses three museums – the National Archaeological Museum, the Siena Contemporary Art Centre and a Children's Art Museum.

Book your Vueling to Florence and head for Siena to coincide with the city’s festivities.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Image by Janus Kinase

 

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5 Stews To Beat The Cold In Madrid

Well, yes – Madrid’s culinary offerings can be overwhelming. Between glasses of beer and tapas – which come in all shapes and sizes – we often forget to set aside some time for delighting in the Madrilenian stew known as a cocido, an essential classic here. This hypercaloric dish, made up of soup, chickpeas and a variety of meat and vegetables, pampered over a long, low fire and served up in two or three scoops, in venues that can vary from vintage to chic, is one of those gastronomic experiences you are not likely to regret. If you happen to be in an eatery which does not specialise in this tasty stew, bear in mind that it usually appears with the onset of the cold weather (October) and lasts until the early heat in May. No wonder, as the dish is purpose designed to beat the cold and build up your strength, so that restaurants offer it as a seasonal delight. Here, then, is a selection of some of the spots where you can enjoy a great cocido.Bon appetit!

La Bola

Located in the area of the Palacio Real and the Plaza de Oriente, La Bola is one of the most popular cocido eateries in Madrid and a compulsory destination on any wish-list for this much loved stew. Founded in 1870, its outstanding feature when compared to the same dish in other restaurants is that it is made adhering to a strictly traditional method, cooked over a charcoal fire in individual stewpots.

Lhardy

Our second option is a venue that has also been open for many years. Founded in 1839, it offers both cocidos and other delicacies. Located on Carrera de San Jerónimo, Lhardy is just a stone’s throw from the Puerta del Sol. It boasts some magnificent classical-style salons, attesting to the fact that cocido can also be an elegant dish, particularly when you eat it using silver tableware. Royal figures such as Isabella II and Alfonso XII have graced these fine, history-packed premises, where they serve up a delicious and surprisingly light stew which is well worth the price.

Malacatín

Open since 1895, Malacatín is a small restaurant in the district known as La Latina which oozes venerable charm throughout. The cocido ladled up in three scoops is celebrated both for its excellence and generous helpings, so hungry guests are not likely to leave the eatery in a hurry. Their prices are more than reasonable compared to the competition and there is a story doing the rounds that whoever manages to finish a whole cocido here will have it on the house.

Casa Carola

While running for far fewer years than the previous spot – it opened in 1998 – the Casa Carola matches others restaurants for quality. It is situated in the heart of the Salamanca quarter and is a surefire destination for anyone wishing to try an exquisite variety of this dish. Their cocido is served in three scoops and among its star ingredients are their fabulous homegrown chickpeas from Segovia.

La Gran Tasca

Open since 1942, La Gran Tasca is another must-visit eatery for seekers of fine cocidos in Madrid. Located in the Chamberí district, their stew is ladled up in two helpings and is up there with the greatest, particularly their excellent soup. The interior design is markedly traditional, including bullfighting motifs.

Book your Vueling to Madrid and get ready to taste one of the most traditional dishes in town.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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Hogmanay in Edinburgh

New Year’s Eve is marked by special events in all the world’s major capitals. However, few take it so seriously as the people of Edinburgh. Hogmanay, as the festivity is known in Scotland, dates from the 16th century. Pagan in origin, it was brought to Scotland by early Gaelic and Viking settlers. The liturgy for Hogmanay was simple – it was customary to visit the homes of friends and neighbours just before midnight in order to be the first to cross the threshold carrying small gifts like fruit cake, whisky, biscuits or salt to celebrate the occasion. With a tradition of nearly six hundred years to back it, Hogmanay has become one of the most important festivities in Scotland and a tourist magnet for anyone wishing to experience a different New Year’s Eve. The celebrations are long drawn out, crammed with activities marrying culture and entertainment and featuring an extensive review of Scottish history. One interesting statistic – in the mid-nineties, the Guinness Book of Records rated Hogmanay the biggest New Year’s Eve celebration in the world, with over 400,000 celebrators each year.

The upcoming Hogmanay, which will mark the passage from 2016 to 2017, will be held from 30 December to 1 January, a very full weekend during which numerous special events will be hosted at various venues in Edinburgh. In effect, the celebration provides visitors with a unique opportunity to discover the city’s most emblematic landmarks in just three days. Two tips about coming well prepared – be sure to bring both sturdy trainers and thick coats, as the temperatures in Scotland at this time of year are icy cold. Having said that, let’s go over the highlights of the festival.

The standout event is without doubt the Street Party, held in an area sectioned off in the city centre, and set against the backdrop of famous Edinburgh Castle. Various shows are staged from 7 o’clock in the evening of 31 December until 1 in the morning. One of the highlights is the musical fireworks display, held to see out 2016 and bring in 2017. A varied programme of top-notch musical performances will be hosted before and after that event at various venues. From the independent pop of The Charlatans – one of the most acclaimed British groups, with a track record of four decades – to the traditional Celtic sound of Ross Ainslie and Ali Hutton, to jazz gigs by James Brown is Annie and Brass Gumbo. There is even a slot for DJs to plug their hits.

Another show you simply cannot miss is the Torchlight Procession. Scheduled for 30 December, the parade files through Edinburgh’s Old Town and is a charity event long associated with Hogmanay. The dynamics of the procession are simple – you can attend as a spectator or purchase a torch for twelve pounds and join the mass march past, which ends with the lighting of a huge bonfire, a sound and light show and a fireworks display which will be visible from various parts of the city.

We wind up this review of the highlights of Hogmanay (there are many events, which you can check out here) with the grand finale, the Final Fling, featuring Gaelic folk dances. The Final Fling will be held in the Grand Hall of the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street, with Heeliegoleerie as the guest stars. Heeliegoleerie are one of Scotland’s most well-established bands who perform at the Ceilidh, an ancestral Scottish festival which acts as a social gathering and also hosts music and dances.

Come and experience Hogmanay for yourself – book your Vueling to Edinburgh here.

Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Recorriendo la Cidade Vella

By the narrow and winding cobbled streets in the old district of A Coruña you can revive its history. Here you can find most of the main landmarks and picturesque nooks of the city.

Cidade Vella is an urban grid that goes from María Pita square to the arts center curated by the Luís Seoane Foundation, and through other remarkable places like Xeneral Azcárrega square, Bárbaras convent or Santiago’s church. This is also the shopping district, with some great antique and handicrafts shops, where you can always buy something special. Of course you can also try the most remarkable specialties from the Galician cuisine at some of the bars or restaurants around this area.

Starting at María Pita square, this is the hearth of the city; named after a heroine that fought the British army, lead by the corsair Francis Drake, on 1589. At the center of the square, a monument by the artist Xosé Castiñeiras, stands in honor of this brave woman.

After the square, Santiago’s church is probably one of the oldest in the city. Romanesque, it was built during the 12-13th century, and at the west façade, the apostle Santiago is represented horseback.

Later, you will pass by evocative Azcárraga square that, in the past, was the most important square of Cidade Vella, taking to the House of the Municipality or the Artillery Depot. The most relevant events and celebrations took place here and also a great market with all sorts of products.

Near here there is the house where Galician poetess Rosalía de Castro lived, from 1870 to 1879, with her husband Manuel Murguía. She is one of the most relevant literary figures from the 19th century, a precursor to the modern poetry who helped restoring Galician own language and culture.

Walking to Bárbaras square, there is a convent founded in the 14th century, which later was taken by the Franciscan order. The name is given from a hermitage dedicated to Santa Bárbara, which was originally in this place.

Following, we find Santo Domingo church and convent, originally outside the walls of the old district but rebuilt, inside the Cidade Vella, in the first half of 17th century. The convent was expanded on 1726 but the church was demolished and nowadays there are only two chapels, Remedios and Rosario.

We’re getting closer to the viewpoint at San Carlos garden, which follows a romantic style and includes a statue dedicated to Roman Magnus Portus Artabrorum. There is also the coffin from general John Moore, which spawns interest among the British and who helped liberating the city from French troops who attacked in 1809. Initially, it was built as a defensive castle, outside the walls, in 16th century, but, little by little, its importance as a bulwark was lost and was eventually abandoned. In the 18th century it was regained as a garden designed by Carlos F. de Croix.

Getting close to the end of this route, the arts center curated by Louis Seoane Foundation, located at an old barracks that have been rebuilt, was opened in 2003. The foundation aims to disclosure the artwork and intellectual legacy from the artist, painter and writer Luis Seoane, and also to develop other exhibitions regarding contemporary culture and reflections.

Ayuntamiento by Carlos Fernández San Millán | Tumba de Sir John Moore by Marcus | Plaza Azcárraga by FirkinCat

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

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