Revelling in the Carnival of Milan
Milan is celebrated as having one of the highest economic development rates among Italy’s cities. It is also famed for being one of the international hubs of fashion and design. When considering a trip to this incredible city, we inevitably think of attending one of its great fashion shows, roaming through its boundless Furniture Fair or delighting in window shopping its fabulous stores and splashing out on the amazing apparel, if we can afford it.
Some head for Milan to soak up its cultural assets by visiting its most emblematic monuments, notably the Duomo or the Castello Sforzesco, relishing the artworks housed in the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and the Museo del Novecento, or venturing into the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. There, the art lover is greeted by one of the icons of art history, Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. Then again, others prefer to don their finery to attend an opera performance in the iconic Teatro alla Scala.
The Carnevale Ambrosiano
No less celebrated is one of Milan’s more spirited, entertaining facets – its Carnival. When the subject of Italy’s carnivals comes up, it is common to talk about the two most popular instances in the land. First, the Venice Carnival, with its magnificent face masks and spectacular period costumes, which unfolds against the magical backdrop of that unique city. The other is the Viareggio Carnival, where festival-goers never fail to be amazed by the mechanical ingenuity of the floats that file past during the parade.
The Carnevale Ambrosiano, as Milan’s carnival is known, offers a peculiarity which makes it stand out from the rest – its duration. Carnival usually ends on Carnival Tuesday, also known as Mardi Gras, which then gives way to Ash Wednesday, marking the start of Lent. In the case of Milan, it extends four more days, lasting until the Saturday, known locally as Sabato Grasso. And, it’s not merely because of some whim, as the reason for its duration is related to a long-standing legend. It is said that the bishop, St Ambrose, the patron saint of Milan, who happened to be on a long pilgrimage in foreign lands, requested an extension of Carnival until his return to the city, as he wished to celebrate the start of Lent with all his people.
Like any noteworthy carnival, the Milan Carnival prizes itself on its parades and street festivities, characterised by a fanfare of colour, music and festive atmosphere. On the Saturday, the crowning event is a grand parade which ends in one of the city’s most emblematic spots, the Piazza del Duomo.
One of the standout aspects of this Carnival is the traditional costume known as the Meneghino. Just as the figure of the harlequin is traditional in Bergamo, or Pantaleon in Venice, the Milan Carnival has its own popular figure, drawn from the Italian Commedia dell'arte. TheMeneghinocan be spotted by his three-cornered hat.
Among the traditional confectionery loved by the Milanese are the chiacchiere and bugie, simple fried pastries made of flour and coated in castor sugar which are ideal for topping up your strength between one street party and the next.
Don your mask and come to Milan to delight in its Carnival!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by gnuckx
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Appetising In Barcelona
Going out for an aperitif is unquestionably all the rage in Barcelona. Here, it is a pre-lunch ritual, revolving around that heart-warming beverage with herbs and its supporting cast of gastronomic classics such as olives, crisps, mussels, banderillas(pickled appetizers on a cocktail stick), gildas, anchovies and a host of other tasties. A number of cutting-edge gastro varieties have also come into their own, as have a reworking of the classics.
The long-standing, traditional slew of bars for indulging in this not so hidden pleasure has been augmented by new proposals, making Barcelona a veritable paradise for revelling in this “gastro sport”. You can practically tour the city by going from one taproom to the next, although we decline all responsibility for any ensuing hangover or blowout you are likely to experience. We now turn to a selection of venues for giving yourself over to this pleasure on the palate.
Senyor Vermut
Running for just over two years, this bar has managed to elbow its way in among the respectable venues in town. One of its secrets is its broad selection of vermouths – there are up to 40 options to choose from – particularly those they make themselves. Another key to their success is their tapas, notably the papas bravas, a genuine delicacy.
El Xampanyet
Located at 22 Calle Montcada, in the heart of the Born, this is a classic among classics, where tourists and locals mingle in uncanny harmony. This small wine cellar with its classical air is usually packed, so you are advised to get there early if you want a seat. Their anchovies are the best in town and their ham is sheer delight.
Vermuteria el Tano
A real classic in the Gracia district, with appropriate decor included – casks, old-fashioned fridges and countless objects from the past. They have a magnificent array of cold tapas to accompany your vermouth or beer. This bar has a grass-roots atmosphere, continually livened up by the congenial service dispensed by Tano, its current owner.
Morro Fi
This tiny bar on Calle Consell de Cent harbours an intense pleasure – that of savouring a glass of well pulled beer. Manel, the most prominent figure in this bar, takes great pains to serve up a fine vermouth – they are sourced in Reus, the classical purveyor and most noted vermouth-producing town. He also has excellent munchies, like the French fries with mussels and olives and a touch of pungent sauce, which is finger-licking delicious. The family has grown in recent years, so die-hards of this venue have two other alternatives in the Sant Gervasi district, namely Mitja Vida and Dalt de Tot. And, here you can also pick up an aperitif kit wrapped in a simple, original design.
Bodega 1900
As mentioned above, some spots have splashed out on new trends in tapas, and this wine bar, with Albert Adrià at the helm, has endowed the appetizer ritual with an avant-garde flourish. His vermouth – La Cala – is homemade and his tapas are both innovative and top-notch. Interestingly, this innovation strikes a contrast with the classical decor in the bar.
Gran Bodega Saltó
This unusual bodega is located in Poble Sec, another district to bear in mind if you’re into appetisers. On entering, newcomers are struck by the decor, featuring old barrels clashing with a host of interspersed , ill-matched objects cramming the display cabinets and the area at the back of the tavern. It is well worth visiting, but not only for its outlandish decoration, as here your aperitif and tapas are accompanied by live music.
Ready to explore the bars of Barcelona in search of the best vermouth? Check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Eerie Fun In Barcelona
While modest in size, Barcelona packs a punch, boasting myriad leisure facilities which are up with the much bigger cities in terms of area and population. This is evident in the host of activities scheduled for Halloween. In effect, on 31 October, the city morphs into one of Europe’s great capitals of witches, pumpkins and monsters. Take note, though – these events are paralleled by the traditional Castanyada, a grass-roots Catalan festivity at which celebrants feast on chestnuts, sweet potato, panellets (small marzipans coated with pine nuts) and muscatel in family circles. Here, then, are five ideas for enjoying the best Halloween possible in Barcelona.
The Vampire Route & Other Legends
A millenary city, Barcelona has all sorts of historical legends related to the supernatural, some of which are charted on the route organised by the folks at Go Bcn. Best of all, you can do it on the night of 31 October. The story of Enriqueta Martí, the protagonist of some macabre events in the early-20th century, and the telluric significance of certain buildings and other spaces in the city, are chronicled on this two-hour route during Halloween, which roams mainly through Barcelona’s city centre and historic quarter.
Hotel Krüeger, in Tibidabo
Located in the Tibidabo fairgrounds, Barcelona’s iconic amusement park, with splendid views over the city, the Hotel Krüeger is one of the few Houses of Terror still operating in Spain. You can experience fear live, in the course of an entertaining, fast-paced ride in which fair-goers are subjected to frightening situations by actors dressed up as notorious characters from horror movies. They always lay on new predicaments and frights for Halloween, so Hotel Krüeger is a must-visit venue on 31 October.
Terror Marathon at Phenomena
No Halloween would be complete without horror movies. They know that only too well at Phenomena, one of the best cinemas in town. To mark the occasion, they have scheduled a movie marathon for 31 October and, if you decide to come along, be sure to don a suitable fancy dress for your trick or treat. The main feature films for that night are two 80s classics, Dolls and Pet Sematary, plus a surprise movie to be announced minutes before its screening. Incidentally, the cinema is almost next door to the Sagrada Familia, so you can score a double by also visiting Gaudí’s masterpiece.
Razzhalloween
The Sala Razzmatazz requires no introduction – it is Barcelona’s most acclaimed dance club and the nerve centre of independent pop-rock and fresh, cutting-edge dance music. On 31 October, this disco in Poblenou will morph into Razzhalloween, the premises divided up into various spaces decked out in Halloween motifs and as horror movie sets. Two examples – the emblematicLolitahall will be converted into the Horror Camp, and thePop Barinto Psycho Fan.
The Poblenou and Montjuïc Cemeteries
Graveyards set several kilometres apart, but united by seniority and charm. One near the sea (Montjuïc) and the other in one of the city’s iconic districts – Poblenou. Both are open to the public and admission-free. Take note – the Poblenou Cemetery cemetery will lay on a guided tour on the night of 1 November to celebrate All Saints. It is free-of-charge, and guests will be chaperoned by actors dressed up as some of Barcelona’s famous historic figures.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona here and enjoy its eeriest offerings.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Imágenes by Laurabtanti, Sarah_Ackerman, Nikodem Nijaki, Leticia Manzano, Rober
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Eight Bookshops To Enjoy During the Sant Jordi Book Fair
If we had to choose the ideal day for visiting Barcelona and seeing it in all its finery, that date would undoubtedly be 23 April. The celebration of the Catalan “Diada de Sant Jordi” (Feast of St George) sees Barcelona festooned with books and roses, and thousands of people crowding the streets in search of new book releases or their favourite author to autograph a copy of their purchase. Roses are also in evidence everywhere, particularly red ones, which all young men are duty bound to gift to their beloved. The ritual is re-enacted year after year and draws numerous booksellers to the city. Following is a list of the main bookshops in Barcelona which you are encouraged to visit on the Feast of St George or, to avoid the crush, any time you happen to be book hunting in Barcelona.
1. Laie
A true beacon of Barcelona’s literary scene and a must-visit destination for any reading enthusiast is Libreria Laie, specialising in art, literature and the humanities. This well managed bookstore also features a café-restaurant on the upper floor, the perfect spot for chatting about the latest literary releases.
2. La Central del Raval
Located in the heart of El Raval quarter, and housed in the former Chapel of Misericordia, is Central del Raval, a classic in the city’s literary scene, boasting some 80,000 titles. Featuring books on anthropology, architecture, design, art, cinema and photography, as well as poetry and the performing arts, among others. Also on the premises is an area devoted to literary activities.
3. Altaïr
Planning to travel anytime soon? Make a point of visiting Librería Altaïr to research your trip beforehand, as there you will find all the books you need to prepare your getaway. They specialise in travel, and as such are one of the largest bookshops in Europe, stocking travel guides, maps and books relating to all possible destinations imaginable.
4. Taifa
Located on the Calle Verdi, in the heart of Gràcia, is the bookstore Librería Taifa. Founded in 1993 by the poet, publisher and literary critic, José Batlló, they stock both new and secondhand books. While specialising in the humanities, the store is noted for its section on cinema, which the proprietors hold in great esteem.
5. Hibernian Books
Also located in the Gràcia district is Hiberian Books, which is celebrated for being the only store in Barcelona specialising in secondhand books in English. Their list runs into some 40,000 titles, covering all possible genres, including a section featuring children’s books.
6. Loring Art
Loring Art are specialists in contemporary visual culture. The store started out in 1996 with just a hundred titles, while nowadays it has some 20,000, a treat for connoisseurs of this genre. Their offerings provide a journey through 20th- and 21st-century painting, sculpture, design, fashion, photography, architecture, cinema, music, the performing arts and electronic art.
7. Casa Anita
This unique bookshop located in the Gràcia district is dedicated to illustrated books. While targeting primarily children and young readers, their titles are a delight for children and adults alike.
8. Arkham Comics
This small bookshop in El Raval specialises in comics. Although it can be challenging to jostle your way among so many volumes, this is the perfect place for devotees of graphic novels, who are urged to take the advice of Xavi, the ever-helpful owner.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and delve into the city’s literary world, as well as revelling in one of the city’s most becoming festivities.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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