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De rubias por Bruselas

Belgium is a comparatively small land which has nevertheless made an inestimable contribution to the world of gastronomy – chips, waffles, chocolate and, very especially, beer. Here, over 450 varieties are made, whether by trusted traditional methods or using new technologies, yielding flavours that range from the classical to the most exotic. While the barley brew is a religion in Belgium, for beer enthusiasts Brussels is the hideout of some of the best taverns – and veritable places of pilgrimage – on the old continent.

A La Mort Subite
(Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potagères, 7)

Opened in 1910, A La Mort Subite is one of those spots oblivious to the passage of time. It boasts an exquisite beer selection, but I can recommend the one named after the establishment, Mort Subite, with its raspberry aroma. Its appearance and elegance on the palate have earned it the sobriquet of “the beer world’s pink champagne”.

Delirium Café
(Impasse de la Fidélité, 4)

This is Brussels’ beer cellar par excellence, a must-visit place of pilgrimage for any beer toper worth his or her salt. It started off as a tiny cellar on the Impasse de la Fidélité, but today it has taken over most of the street. Here you will find the whole range, from typical Belgium abbey beers to exotic beverages from the outer reaches of the planet. They need loads of storage space to house the more than five thousand types of beer on offer.

Le Cirio
(Rue de la Bourse, 18-20)

In the very heart of the Belgian capital, Le Cirio is located in the side street of the Bourse. Although not on account of its siting, the café is packed with guided tour parties. Le Cirio is a veritable institution in Brussels’ tavern guild. Rather than a venue for downing a pint, this spot, which still has its original centenary decor intact, is the ideal place for trying local cuisine, washed down – naturally – with a good indigenous beer.

Le Poechenellekelder
(Rue du Chêne, 5)

Hanging from its flea-market-like ceiling you will find anything from puppets to lavatory seats. Le Poechenellekelder is undoubtedly one of the bars with the most character in Brussels. This small venue, ideally located next door to the famous Manneken Pis, has a sizeable variety of mainly Trappist beers, crafted for the most part by monks.

Le Roy d’Espagne
(Grand Place, 1)

A seat on the terrace in the Grand Place is a privileged vantage point for viewing the bustle of the city. If, in addition, you are savouring steamed mussels, a helping of chips and, for instance, a 9° proof Chimay Bleue grand reserve, the experience is complete. The proposal might conjure up images of a rubberneck in flip-flops and socks, but there are certain pleasures one cannot – or should not – pass up, as clichéd or hackneyed as they may be.

Moeder Lambic
(Place Fontainas, 8)

Pils, Trappists, triples, doubles, wittes, IPAs, pale ales, stouts… you will find them all in the Moeder Lambic, a stunning place with its 40 taps arrayed behind an endless bar counter. While you’re there, make sure to try the beer they make themselves in a brewery just two blocks away. Fermented in the open air, the fruity taste of their Moeder Lambic Original is highly seductive.

Nuëtnigenough
(Rue du Lombard, 25)

A small brasserie always packed with locals, an unmistakeable sign of success. They offer excellent cuisine at more than reasonable prices and an array of beers that will meet the expectations of even the most seasoned beer connoisseurs. This is one of the hidden gems all cities seem to have, but guard the secret jealously!

Toone
(Rue du Marché aux Herbes, 66)

Our route ends with what is likely the quaintest bar in Brussels. The Toone, concealed between the buildings separating the Impasse de Sainte Pétronille from the Marché aux Herbes, is a brasserie which doubles as a puppet theatre. Between performances, customers drink amid puppets and a number of other fabled creatures.

Beer Weekend

The Belgian Beer Weekend is held the first weekend in September each year in Brussels’ Grand Place, where a host of brasseries sell their wares and regale visitors with activities relating to countless methods of brewing and different beer flavours.

Belgian Brewers Museum

The Maison des Brasseurs, a majestic stone building located in the Grand Place, is home to the Belgian Brewers Museum. It opens every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and admission costs 5 euros.

Brussels Beer Tours

Being highly specialised in beer, Brussels is understandably criss-crossed by an endless list of thematic tours of the city, notably Beertrips, Belgian Beer Me, Global Beer, Podge Beer and Bier Mania.


Text by Oriol Rodríguez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

images by Bill Smith, ^CiViLoN^,Daniel Lobo, GD Preston, lhongchou's photography, Kmeron, Bernt Rostad, Foam, Ana Gasston

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Granada, A Music Capital

Sometimes you just have to burst certain stereotypes which seem to hound some cities. Our case in point is paradigmatic. In effect, Granada has such a lot going for it, apart from the legendary Alhambra and the first Renaissance cathedral to be built in Spain, the imperial Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación (both of these must-visit landmarks, although not the sum of the city’s attractions). Located on the banks of the river Genil and towered over by the Sierra Nevada, the capital of Granada is one of the focal points in Andalusian culture, a university city where the old and new come together. Local traditional music – flamenco, cante jondo – ring out side by side with pop music and contemporary rock (all related to independent music).

Granada has fewer than 250,000 inhabitants, but is an inexhaustible academy of artists and bands. Enrique Morente, Los Planetas, Lagartija Nick, 091 and Lori Meyers, to name just some of the more famous among them, emerged from the city’s streets and corners and went on to write some of the most celebrated chapters in Spanish music. Being a small city, you can walk through it comfortably. All you need is a pair of good trainers and, above all, motivation. So, if you’re eager to find out about more than just its historical landmarks, here goes a few musical slots geared to discovering a different Granada.

As mentioned above, the old and new come together in Granada. What’s more, those two currents have merged, thanks to the work of some of the aforementioned artists, like Enrique Morente and the incombustible Largartija Nick. The first must-visit spot on any tour of the city’s vibrant music scene is Sacromonte, the cradle of Granadan folklore. Situated in the Sierra de San Miguel and with a privileged view of the city, the area is brimming with caves blessed with excellent acoustics where the gypsy community organises recitals of cante jondo and flamenco. The performances are generous and varied. Apart from Sacromonte, it is well worth strolling through the district of Albaicín – also on the upper side of the city – another cradle of Granada flamenco and one of the most acclaimed gastronomic enclaves. In the streets of this district lies one of the most celebrated flamenco schools in the country, the Instituto de Flamenco Flora Albaicín.

Moving on to wholeheartedly modern currents, Granada is the land of independent rock. It boasts a rich fabric of clubs and concert halls with programmes that also open up to styles beyond Indie (electronic, mestizaje). One of the most venerable spots is Planta Baja, a veritable cultural institution in the city which, apart from hosting consolidated bands, also gives emerging local talent the chance to make their mark. Located in downtown Granada, near the Basilica of Juan de Dios, the Monastery of San Jerónimo and Granada Cathedral – you guessed it; you might as well do some sightseeing before visiting it – it offers activities from noon onwards and DJ sessions at the weekend. Some of the big names that will feature on stage at Planta Baja in the coming months include Sex Museum, Soledad Vélez and Carlos Sadness. Another club which deserves a pilgrimage if you’re into pop and rock is El Tren, located on the outskirts of the city.

A place with so much musical activity could not fail to have a good number of record shops, too. One of the best is Discos Marcapasos, just a few metres from Planta Baja. Located at 6 Calle Duquesa, it is the nerve centre of Granada’s music scene, also offering a generous stock of CDs and vinyls covering sixties years of pop music. It provides advance ticket sales for concerts at Planta Baja, El Tren and other venues in town as well. The store also hosts such activities as ad hoc DJ sessions, record signings and acoustic concerts. Another of the city’s institutions well worth considering is Discos Bora Bora, a small store with a large selection of vinyls.

Book your Vueling to Granada and discover its music scene.

Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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“Barçalona”, the Blaugrana City

“Our friend and companion Mr Kans Kamper of the Foot-Vallsection of the Sociedad los Deportesand former Swiss champion wishes to organise some football matches in Barcelona” read an advert in the weekly newspaper, Los Deportes on 22 October 1899. Hans Gamper, now known as Joan Gamper, was the Club's Swiss founder, player and president, and a key figure in the destiny of the Barcelona football team. He was already a prominent soccer player in his own country and, when he moved to Barcelona in 1899 for business reasons, he refused to forego his passion. He published the above advert in an attempt to perpetuate the sport. As a result, the foundational assembly of FC Barcelona was held on 29 November in the Gimnasio Solè. Located in Montjuïc del Carme Street number 5 (on the corner of Pintor Fortuny, near the Ramblas and very close to the Canaletes fountain), these premises went on to become a garage until they were bought by a construction company in 1996, demolished and rebuilt to be used as office space. However, a plaque at the entrance reminds passers-by that this place saw the birth of one of the most admired football clubs in the world.

From La Escupidera to Camp Nou

After continuously moving from one venue to another, Barça finally bought some grounds in 1909 between the streets Comte d’Urgell, Villarroel, Coello – now Londres – and Indústria – now París – where the first stadium was built. It was commonly known as La Escupidera (The Spittoon), given its small size. With a capacity for 6,000 spectators, it was almost too small from the outset. The numbers attending matches were such that those left outside would climb the outer walls of the premises in order to follow the game. The bottoms of these enthusiasts were exposed to the street, in view of passers-by, which is why Barça supporters are now known as culés (“bottomers” in Catalan).

In view of this, FC Barcelona moved to a stadium in the district of Les Corts, situated in the block delimited by the streets Numància, Travessera de Les Corts, Vallespir and Marquès de Sentmenat. Inaugurated on 20 May 1922, the stadium could initially hold 60,000 spectators. This enlargement also turned out to be insufficient to seat all those who wished to enjoy Ladislao Kubala’s football. This football wizard ­– included in the Barça "Holy Trinity" completed by Johan Cruyff and Leo Messi – was influential in the demolition of the Les Corts field and the construction of Camp Nou. The location of theformer stadiumis now commemorated by a plaque on an apartment block in Numància Street.

The new blaugrana colosseum, with a capacity for almost 100,000 people, was inaugurated on 24 September 1957 and has become a symbol of world football. A few metres from the stadium, encapsulating the essence of the club, stands the Masia Can Planas – a country house from 1702 that was until recently the residence of the blaugrana stars. For more information on Barça’s different headquarters, click here.

Between Euphoria and Faith

In February 1930, the weekly newspaper “La Rambla” was founded by Barça's president-to-be, Josep Suñol, with its headquarters at Las Ramblas number 13. Today, these premises are occupied by Núria Restaurant, just opposite the Canaletes fountain. At a time when football matches were not yet broadcasted on radio, the employees of the newspaper would hang a board from their office balcony with the day’s results. This was the way culés used to find out how well their team had done. If the score was satisfactory, the celebration would start. Since then, and still today, Canaletes fountain is the epicentre of Barça euphoria. Legend has it that, if visitors drink from the waters of Canaletes, they will eventually return to the city.

To wind up the celebrations, the football stars would end up on the balconies of the Generalitat de Catalunya and Barcelona City Hall in Sant Jaume square. Players, coaches and executives would then go to the Mercè chapel, a Baroque church located in La Mercè square, adjoining Carrer Ample and Passeig de Colom, to offer the winning trophy to the city's patron saint. Not very far from there is the cathedral of Santa María del Mar. This beautiful Gothic church was attacked at the beginning of the Civil War and most of the stained glass windows were destroyed. The government of the Generalitat insisted on its restoration, which was financed by various wealthy families of the time and Barcelona institutions, such as FC Barcelona. As a token of gratitude, the club's emblem was placed on the window in the church sanctuary. Indeed, football is a question of faith.

Barcelona is no doubt one of the most football-mad cities in the world. You can breathe Barça everywhere. Come and see it for yourself! Check out our flights here.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez / ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Oriol Rodríguez, Juanedc, Maria Rosa Ferre, Jordi Ferrer, Enfo_34/ Fundació del FC Barcelona

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Paris Weekend Getaway

Paris is the city of artists and art lovers, a source of inspiration for writers, the capital of fashion, a classic venue for romantic escapades, the epitome of a chic metropolis and a beacon for gourmets, as well as a long list of etceteras. It is one of those places that never let you down when you get to visit them and which has something for everyone, be that the shop windows of luxury stores in the Place Vendôme, enjoying a glass of wine in Le Marais or soaking up the ever-lively atmosphere in the square where the Pompidou Centre is located. Although – we have to admit – the city is a little on the dear side, it is, however, suitable for all audiences and all tastes, and well worth a getaway, however brief that may be.

Paris In Two Days?

We regret having to disappoint you but you cannot see Paris in all its splendour in one go – you simply have to return. However, you can squeeze quite a lot into a well-planned, 48-hour stint in the “City of Light”. The most important thing is to limit the number of areas and monuments you aim to visit, organise your time properly and avoid panicking if you can’t get it all done, which is likely to happen.

Worth Noting

Don’t be shy about being a guiri in Paris. We recommend you take the tourist bus as your first way of coming into contact with the city. As you won’t be able see all the sights on foot, the bus at least gives you an idea of what there is, and the places you see along the route will help you choose where you would like to go back for a visit.

For sightseers, one of the essential activities is touring the banks of the river Seine and its magnificent bridges. Not for nothing were they listed as World Heritage by UNESCO. So, strike out on a boat ride along the river – towards evening is the best time to see it.

To avoid long hikes across the city, be sure to book strategically placed and – above all – well connected accommodation.

Essentials

Following is a list of the places you should seriously consider visiting when planning your short stay in Paris:

- An infallible classic is a walk along the Champs Élysées, from the Tuileries Garden to the Arc de Triomphe. From there, you stroll down towards the Trocadero gardens and cross the Seine to behold the city’s best known landmark, the Eiffel Tower.

- Go to the Île de la Cité where you can see two other beacons of the French capital –Notre Dameand the Sainte-Chapelle, a Gothic jewel with a stunning interior, thanks to its spectacular stained glass windows. While you are in this area, head for the Pont Neuf, which affords splendid views of the city and the Seine.

- Stroll along the narrow streets of Montmartre, also known as the “artists’ quarter”, and go up to the church of Sacré Cœur. Nightlife addicts can take a night-time stroll through the Place Pigalle, famed for its cabarets, especially the popular Moulin Rouge.

- Art lovers will be hard put to make choices on such a short getaway. You can easily spend a whole morning wandering among the vast array of masterpieces in the Louvre, so we would be more inclined to head for the Rodin Museum,as your expectations will be amply met by both the exhibition areas and the museum gardens. The Musée d'Orsay, with its 19th-century artworks, the Musée de l'Orangerie, with its Impressionist paintings, and the Pompidou Centre, featuring an excellent repertory of modern and contemporary art, are also good options, as long as you restrict the areas you intend to visit.

- Have a walk around the Place Vendôme, its centre presided over by a column modelled after Trajan’s Column in Rome, where you will find the leading luxury stores in Paris.

- Trend-seekers would do well to include Le Marais in their itinerary, as this is the city’s trendy district par excellence. Here you will find the most fashionable designer stores, art galleries, bars and restaurants.

Succumb to the delights of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – book your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Sean X. Liu

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