The Historical Cafés of Trieste
If you travel to Trieste, don’t fail to visit its historical cafés. Part of their patina is due to their connection with literary figures – writers such as Svevo, Saba, Stendhal and Joyce frequented these establishments in search of conversation, inspiration and rest.
While these cafés enjoyed their moment of splendour in the late-19th and early-20th century, they have endured to the present, albeit with some changes, transporting their customers back to a bygone age. Visitors can admire their wooden furnishings, framed in tall architectural devices, the classic marble tables and an atmosphere redolent with the aroma of coffee.
Here are some of the standout historical cafés of Trieste:
Caffè Tommaseo (Piazza Tommaseo, 4/c)
Opened in 1830 by the Paduan, Tommaso Marcato, this is Trieste’s oldest café. It was decorated by the painter, Gatteri, who among other things commissioned the mirrors to be brought from Belgium. It was once a meeting place of merchants and writers and the first establishment in the city to serve ice-cream. It also used to host art exhibitions and concerts, a tradition still kept alive on its premises.
Caffè degli Specchi (Piazza Unità d’Italia, 7)
Founded in 1839 by the Greek, Nicolò Priovolo, it is located in one of the most privileged spots in Trieste, the Piazza Unità d’Italia, on the ground floor of the Stratti building. When you get to this café, you are hard put to decide where to sit – the interior is still tinged with the charm of its glorious past, while the terrace affords lovely views of the square and the sea. Curiously, during World War II it was used to garrison troops, and also as a warehouse and even a stable.
Caffè Tergesteo (Piazza della Borsa, 15)
Housed in the shopping arcade of the Tergesteo Palace, the former seat of Trieste’s stock exchange, it is famed for its stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the city’s history. It was once frequented during the day by businessmen who attended the stock exchange, and by night by the cultural elite.
Caffè San Marco (Via Battisti, 18)
The early years of this café were troubled ones. Having opened in 1914, the following year it was closed down and destroyed by Austro-Hungarian troops for having been the meeting place for the irredentists. It was rebuilt in the twenties, when its regular clientele featured such literary figures as Saba, Svevo and Giotti. It is now a café, cultural centre and library and still breathes the atmosphere of another age.
Caffè Torinese (Corso Italia, 2)
The first thing that strikes one when entering this bar, opened in 1915, is its Art Nouveau decoration, the work of the Trieste cabinet-maker, Debelli. Another stunning feature is the spectacular crystal chandelier that lights its comfortable interior. The current owners have managed to endow the locale with a cool, modern air in the guise of its cocktails and its wine list, which includes local wines.
How to Order a Coffee in Trieste
While this might sound outlandish, Trieste has its own names for different types of coffee and you should bear this in mind unless you want to end up gawking at the waiter who has just served up your order. An expresso is called a nero, while a capuccino is known as caffè latte. If you want a macchiato, you have to ask for a capo (capuccino) and, if you’d like your coffee served in a glass, you should specify “in a b”, as “b” is the abbreviation for glass (bicchiere) in Italian.
Ready for a good cup of coffee in Trieste? Book your Vueling here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by dani7c3, Caffè Tommaseo, Caffè Torinese, Caffè degli Specchi
more infoThe Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
The magnificent sea port of Genoa, situated in the north of Italy, is the perfect spot for a two-day getaway. There you can discover the jewels yielded by the sediment of numerous stories that took place in that city over the years.
The old harbour is undoubtedly Genoa’s major attraction. To mark the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America – one of the city’s most celebrated citizens was Christopher Columbus – the harbour was renovated, a make-over that was long overdue. The result of that restoration includes the Bigo, a futuristic structure designed by Renzo Piano affording interesting views over the city, in addition to the Aquarium, the Biosphere and the Galata Sea Museum, one of the largest marine exhibitions in Europe.
But, apart from its harbour, the capital of Liguria offers many other enticements, such as strolling through the Old Town and wandering around the caruggi or dark, narrow back streets. Also worth visiting are the Palazzi dei Rolli, a system of 16th- and 17th-century Renaissance and Baroque palaces, forty-two of which are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Not to be missed either are Genoa Cathedral, dedicated to St Lawrence, and the spectacular Piazza de Ferrari. For those eager to delve into Italy’s history, the place to head for is the Museo del Risorgimento, housed in the erstwhile residence of Giuseppe Mazzini, a key figure in the unification of the country.
The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
Apart from these monuments and landmarks, which you are sure to come across in the course of any tourist itinerary through the city, Genoa has another unusual attraction well worth visiting, the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. Located on the outskirts of Genoa, on a hillside next to the Bisagno Valley in the Staglieno district, lies one of Europe’s largest cemeteries, celebrated for its interesting sculptural and architectural ensembles on tombs and pantheons.
The construction of cemeteries on the outskirts of towns got under way after the 1804 Napoleonic Edict of Saint-Cloud, by which burials in churches or within city walls were banned. In the case of Genoa, Carlo Barabino was tasked with designing the city’s new cemetery in 1835. Construction work began in 1844 and the precinct was inaugurated in 1851, although building continued until 1880. The precinct was extended over time and areas dedicated to other religions were added, notably the Jewish, Orthodox, Protestant and English cemeteries – the latter houses the tomb of Oscar Wilde’s wife, Constance Lloyd.
Its origins coincide with the rise of a markedly affluent bourgeoisie, intent on extolling their merits for posterity, to which end they commissioned artists to adorn their opulent mausoleums. These artists included such sculptors as Leonardo Bistolfi, Augusto Rivalta, Giulio Monteverde and Edoardo Alfieri.
A walk through this graveyard effectively becomes a tour of the different art styles that emerged in the 19th and 20th century, as visitors are regaled with works of Neoclassicism, Symbolism, Liberty and Art Deco. This is augmented by the presence of nature, in the guise of plant growth interspersed among the various architectural features, making for an unsettling yet inspiring experience.
Many a visitor has succumbed to the charms of this monumental cemetery. Friedrich Nietzsche and Paul Rée used to discuss philosophy as they strolled through it, while Hemingway described it as “One of the wonders of the world”. Peter Saville, for his part, used photos by Bernard Pierre Wolff of some of the sculptures in the cemetery when he designed the Joy Division album covers for Love Will Tear Us Apart and Closer.
Book your Vueling to this fantastic Mediterranean city – discover its old harbour, stroll through itscaruggi,soak up the beauty of its palaces and drop in on this very special cemetery.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by jeff kerwin, Enrico Sirola, Superchilum
more info5 Specialty Foodie Spots in London
On our latest escape to London we came across some foodie venues that were surprising and unexpected to say the least – porridge, cereals, crisps… The UK capital has bars specialising in these goodies and are a MUST-VISIT.
A Café Dedicated To Porridge
One of the trends of the year? Yes, porridge. Some may be puzzled by all the buzz surrounding what was once a breakfast associated with the more deprived, as attested in the famous work, Oliver Twist. However, people have succumbed to its charms in droves, particularly on account of its health benefits. So much so that the first ever porridge bar has opened in London. Here, you can choose from over 25 recipes of this modish delight for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Served with fruit, custard, all kinds of milk, and also bacon, eggs or meat… They also feature a large variety of seeds to round off the healthy experience. An ideal, energy-packed way to start the day and to explore one of the most emblematic specialities of British cuisine. Needless to say, this café is located in the ultra-cool Shoreditch district.
A Restaurant Starring Crisps
You’re a crisp fiend, are you? Well, get on a flight to London, which already has its own restaurant extolling this highly addictive speciality and it’s called Hipchips. The chef behind the concept is Scott Davies and his hangout is in the heart of Soho. Make no mistake – here, there are no industrial-grade bags; the crisps are made from a variety of different coloured potatoes: “vintage”, like (the red) Highland Burgundy 1936, Pink Fir Apple and (mauve) Shetland Black. They are served with sauce for dipping and come in six savoury and even sweet varieties, like the Nutella or cheesecake. A portion costs just over 5 euros.
Chocolate Paradise
Dark Sugars Chocolate Shop is an earthly paradise. That’s it. The shop sets out to showcase the evolution of chocolate from the raw state to all finished products imaginable. Here, you can taste pure cocoa, craft chocolates and truffles and hot chocolate beverages. There are even vegan options. The raw material is imported from the finest plantations in Africa and South America. Oh-my-God!
A Bar Which Compiles the World’s Most Emblematic Cereals
Are you a devotee of Special K? Or Cheerios? Froot Loops, maybe, or perhaps Frosties? You are especially attached to a cereal you tried in some other country which you were never able to find again? Cereal Killer Café unlocks the solution to each of these issues, as this is the only place in the world which has compiled so many cereal varieties. They have over 100 behind the counter from all over the world and you can eat them here in original bowls any time of day, bathed in over 30 different varieties of milk and accompanied with bits of fruit, chocolate… or any of the dozens of toppings on offer. A venue which is decked out – you might have guessed – in an assortment of eye-catching cereal boxes. The decor is a tribute to the 80s and 90s. A journey into the past, seen through the eyes of a child.
Extolling Coffee
Tap Coffee is London’s temple of coffee. A cosy, modern ambience where you can taste excellent coffee, ground and filtered on the spot, after having made your choice of variety and origin of the beans (Kenya, Colombia, Brazil, Rwanda, among others) and type of serving (long, short, milk, cold, hot…). Here, all the ingredients that go into making the coffee are of the finest quality, while the formulas are observed down to the minutest detail, to ensure the beverage is refined and perfect. It is not cheap (over 3.5 euros per cup) but, if you’re a coffee lover, this is your corner.
Book your Vueling to London and enjoy venturing into some of these unique sites, designed to lure enthusiasts of foodie experiences.
Text and photos by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
more infoTo the Carnival Beat in Tenerife
No question about it – there is one time in the year when Santa Cruz de Tenerife comes alive, and that is at Carnival time. It is world famous, extremely popular and one of the biggest on earth, rivalling Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (it’s twin city) and Venice. Tourists, sightseers and fun lovers who head for this spot in the Canary Island archipelago end up hopelessly drawn in by the beat, the dazzle and the colour of this splendid fiesta. Lasting for a month, it features a host of activities showcasing mainly music and fancy dress.
This time around, the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife lasts from 1 February to 5 March. As in previous years, thousands of people in fancy dress roam the streets, eager to fall under the spell of Carnival magic. The festivities are hosted by over a hundred groups of around fifty people each, compering murgas (ensembles singing to satirical lyrics), comparsas (dancing carnival troupes), fancy dress groups, rondallas (street bands) and musical troupes – quite a feat! Take note of the following rundown of the highlights of the Tenerife Carnival for your requisite getaway.
The Carnival Queen
One of the loveliest moments in the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival is the Gran Gala, at which the Carnival Queen is elected. Beholding the spectacular costumes studded with rhinestones, glittering ornaments and elegant feathers is a magical experience. Amazingly, those costumes can weigh up to between 150 and 200 kilos and have to be transported on wheels. A stunning, must-see extravaganza!
The Opening Horse Parade
As its name suggests, this event marks the start of Carnival and what better way to get the ball rolling? In style, with a spectacular horse parade at which all the Carnival troupes march past, including the queens and maids of honour, who ride in carriages escorted by the troupes. Four hours of rhythmic percussion and Latin beat which extend well into the night.
Carnival Saturday
Another date to jot down on your Carnival agenda is Carnival Saturday, when the streets of the city again become inundated with music and dance. Most of the activity is centred around the Plaza de la Candelaria, the Plaza del Príncipe and the Plaza de Europa.
The Gran Coso Apoteosis
This celebration, the veritable closing ceremony of Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, is possibly one of the most exciting moments in the festivities. It is the day all the carnival troupes, carriages, floats and queens parade along the Avenida de Anaga, marking the grand finale of Carnival proceedings.
Ash Wednesday
Like any Carnival worth its salt, the arrival of Lent is heralded by the “burial of the sardine”. The event takes place in the main city streets, suitably draped in mourning, with balconies sporting black ribbons. A giant sardine is paraded through the streets, before being ceremoniously burned at the end of its itinerary. The Tinerfeños or inhabitants of Tenerife bid farewell to Carnival by staging their sorrow in the form of a lament, although they also mark the occasion in comical satire and by lampooning the Church. So, don’t be surprised if, while wandering through the streets, you come across people dressed up mostly as priests, bishops or monks carrying sexual props of all kinds.
Book your Vueling to Tenerife, don your fancy dress and get into festive mood as you attend one of the most popular Carnivals in the world.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Image by Philippe Teuwen
more info