The Exploits of The Ghent Altarpiece
In addition to its canals, the dockside in the old harbour, the Gravensteenor Castle of the Counts of Flanders, the City Hall and the Korenmarkt, one of Ghent’s major attractions is an altarpiece. Granted, it might not sound overly exciting or novel at first glance. If we add that it is one of the masterpieces of Flemish painting and the cornerstone in the transition from medieval to Renaissance art, it might start arousing some interest. And, that it is one of the artworks which, in the course of history, has been stolen most often, as well as having travelled through many countries, you are bound to see it in a different light.
The masterpiece in question is the Polyptych of The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb,also known as the Ghent Altarpiece, the work of the brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck. It is located on the high altar in St Bavo Cathedral and was executed in 1426, commissioned by Joost Vijdt and his wife, Lysbette Borluut. The altarpiece consists of 12 panels painted in oil on both sides and measuring 3.5 m high by 4.6 m wide. It remains closed most of the year, and is only opened on festive holidays, revealing all its splendour. The paintings on the outer panels are more sober, with a marked sculptural air, the central theme being the Annunciation. A noteworthy highlight of the inner panels is their colouring, with a Deësis of Christ the King, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist as the prominent upper feature, and the Adoration of the Lamb in the lower centre. Without going into the subject, the symbology and details behind the scenes of the altarpiece would fill a whole book.
The startling vicissitudes affecting this artwork date from 1566, when the retable had to be dismantled and concealed in the City Hall to preserve it from an assault by Calvinist iconoclasts.
In 1781, the two upper panels, depicting Adam and Eve, were removed from the ensemble, as Joseph II of Bohemia and Hungary found the nakedness of the figures disagreeable. In the 19th century, the panels were replaced with clothed versions of Adam and Eve, executed by the Belgian painter, Victor Lagye.
In 1800, the Napoleonic troops regarded it as the spoils of war – the wings were sectioned off and sold, while the central panels ended up in the Louvre. Once Napoleon had been defeated, the panels were restored to their rightful place in Ghent. But not for long.
In 1816, the vicar of St Bavo sold several of the side panels, which passed through a number of hands before coming into the possession of Wilhelm II, King of Prussia. They ended up being displayed at the Kaiser Friedrich Museum in Berlin. To provide a better view of them, the panels were sectioned lengthwise to reveal the obverse and reverse sides in the same plane. At the end of the First World War, among the multitude of artworks Germany was forced to return were these panels, which were again replaced in their original site.
In 1934, the panel of The Just Judges was stolen and a ransom of one million Belgian francs was demanded for its safe return, but the deal was rejected. It is still missing to this day and has been replaced by a copy, the work of the Brussels Fine Arts Museum curator, Jef Van der Veken.
Needless to say, the altarpiece was not left unscathed by the Second World War either, forming part of the large-scale plunder perpetrated by the Nazis. After a complex hunt for stolen art undertaken by the so-called “Monuments Men”, it was located in the Altaussee salt mine in the Austrian Alps.
The altarpiece is currently being restored, so not all the panels are on display in St Bavo Cathedral. To make up for this, those interested can follow the restoration project live in the Ghent Fine Arts Museum (MSK).
Now that you’re up to speed with all the ins and outs behind this marvellous artwork, we recommend you get hold of a Vueling and see it for yourself. And, don’t leave it too long, in case it gets stolen again!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoThe Best Beaches on the Costa del Sol
The province of Málaga has a coastline stretching for no less than 161 kilometres. This sizeable chunk of seaboard is bathed by the nearly always calm waters of the Mediterranean and boasts a climate with fine weather lasting long after the summer has gone. No wonder, then, that it is a perfect spot for switching off and taking a breather any time of year. Known worldwide as the Costa del Sol – as it has no fewer than 300 days of sunshine a year – it features a large number of beaches to suit all tastes – secluded, urban, long sandy beaches, small coves, crowded and uncrowded ones… With such a variety of options, you are bound to find one to your liking where you can plant your towel and sunshade, and have a refreshing dip.
Guadalmar Beach, Málaga
This beautiful beach is located on one of the main bird migration routes, between the golf course and Guadalmar development estate and the Guadalhorce River Mouth Nature Reserve. In summer it is dotted with hire sunbeds and sunshades to aid in one’s relaxation even more. It is the nudist beach closest to Málaga and is also recommended as a LGBT destination.
La Malagueta Beach, Málaga
The famous beach of La Malagueta lies just ten minutes from Málaga. It is ideal for those visiting the city for a few days who want to have a swim, take in the congenial atmosphere and indulge in some culinary treat like sardines on the skewer or espeto de sardinas, a speciality in the city, available at any of the host of beach bars scattered across the white sands.
Artola-Capobino Beach, Marbella
Sited in the protected area of the Artola Dunes alongside Cabopino harbour is one of the best beaches in both Marbella and the whole Costa del Sol. It has fine, golden sand, and some sections are suitable for devotees of naturism. This priceless natural setting also boasts an item of considerable historic interest – the Torre Ladrones, a defence tower from the Roman period which is designated a Cultural Interest Site.
El Duque Beach, Marbella
Marbella, an upscale tourist resort, also has a beach where you can both strut your stuff and eye the other beach-goers. This is the wonderful El Duque Beach with its golden sand and spectacular backdrop of palm groves studded with beach clubs and bars suitable only for the well-heeled. Next door is Puerto Banús, which sparkles on account of its mega-yachts, glamour and luxury shops.
Bil-Bil Beach, Benalmádena
Located in the heart of Benalmádena, this city beach is perfect for family groups as it has all the amenities. A prominent landmark is Bil-Bil Castle, from which the beach gets its name. Of Moorish inspiration, it was built in 1927 and subsequently converted into an exhibition venue.
Maro Beach, Nerja
In the Nerja area of the eastern Costa del Sol lie several coves which meet all the expectations of lovers of secluded areas, where they can soak up both the sun and nature. One such spot is Maro Beach, located in the town of the same name. The best option for exploring this stretch of the Costa del Sol is by touring it in a kayak, as this is the only way to gain access to the Cueva del Lobo Marino (Sea Lion Cave) and the Cascada de la Doncella (Maiden’s Waterfall), a spectacular freshwater spring that plunges into the sea.
Fire up and enjoy the rich assortment of beaches along the coast of Málaga to the full – book your Vueling to Málaga here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Hernán Piñera
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The Amalfi Coast Sublime Campania
We’ve often been asked by friends and acquaintances to recommend a getatable romantic destination for some special celebration with their partner. We always give them the same answer – the Amalfi Coast, in Italy’s Campania region. Indeed, you cannot help but fall in love with this slice of coastline, bathed by the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, with winding roads concealing some of Italy’s sublimest, most picturesque villages.
The best spot to start out on your itinerary is Sorrento. While not strictly on the coastal route, it is still a charming destination whose luxury hotels have attracted the big names in opera, notably Enrico Caruso and Luciano Pavarotti, acclaimed for his memorable interpretations of Torna a Surriento, one of the best known Neapolitan songs in the world. The balconies so characteristic of the seafront of this Neapolitan town afford some of the best views of Mt Vesuvius, a volcano which has scored the history of this land with fire.
Positano is the first village we come to on the Amalfi Coast or Costiera Amalfitana. Before driving into it, there are some wonderful viewpoints affording vistas of the village, with its houses clinging to the hillside, providing one of the most elegant and iconic picture postcards in Italy. Picturesque and unique, Positano is a must-visit spot on the Amalfi Coast and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. Its steep streets are lined with fashion boutiques and shops selling typical products, while some of its “almost affordable” hotels are veritable backwaters of peace and quiet where many a couple have uttered their “Yes, I do”. This is the case with the Hotel Poseidon, run by the Aonzo brothers, who pamper their guests as if they were true friends.
We still recall how Marco kindly let us use one of his collector cars, a crimson red Alfa Romeo Spider, which we drove like celebrities of the Italian Neorealism to visit other legendary villages on the Amalfi Coast –Amalfi and Ravello. The former, after which this stretch of coastline in the Gulf of Salerno is named, is noteworthy for its flamboyant Piazza del Duomo and the staircase leading up to the Cathedral. Amalfi is the ideal place for shopping along its crowded streets, as well as for sitting down in some secluded restaurant with sea views to lunch or dine on some of the local specialities, notably fish in acqua pazza, washed down with a fine white Fiano di Avellino wine. The final gastronomic flourish is provided by the local queen of liqueurs, limoncello, made from the large, aromatic lemons grown in this area.
Another renowned village on the Amalfi Coast is Ravello, which has a gem in its Villa Cimbrone gardens, which are open to the public, and the marvellous Villa Rufolo, a spot that has enchanted poets, artists and musicians and has helped turn this part of the Italian coastline into one of the ideal places to get married.
Book your Vueling to Naples and make a tour of the Amalfi Coast.
Text by Tus Destinos
more infoThe Cats of The Hermitage
The Hermitage Museum is a must-visit for sightseers in Saint Petersburg. It is one of the best ways to delve into the country’s past – that of the Czars – to get an idea of the opulence and splendour they lived in. The figures speak for themselves: the Hermitage has over three million artworks, from both East and West, including paintings, sculptures, archaeological pieces, Greek and Roman antiquities, jewellery and weapons – imagine that! The art gallery rates among the finest in the world, leaving behind other great art museums such as the Louvre and the Prado. What’s more; only about 3% of that huge number of artworks are actually on public display.
That enormous private collection, which became a State Museum in 1917, dates from 1764, when Catherine the Great acquired 225 Dutch and Flemish paintings. It was also during her reign that construction began on the massive architectural complex where the collections are now housed. It is made up of seven buildings: the Winter Palace – the former residence of the Czars – the Hermitage Theatre, Old Hermitage, Small Hermitage, New Hermitage, General Staff Building and the Menshikov Palace, once the residence of the governor of Saint Petersburg.
The Hermitage Cats
What strikes visitors to this magnificent museum – apart from its wealth, splendour, fine execution and antiquity – are the cats that roam about there. In case you think they are there by chance – no, they are there by design, as they are tasked with hunting down rodents to prevent any artworks from deteriorating. Thus far, it might just sound like some quaint story but there is actually a long history behind these feline guardians. In fact, they are the only tenants of the Palace that have survived all the upheavals of the country’s past – the Napoleonic invasion, the Russian Revolution and the German invasion during World War II.
The first cat to appear in the royal palace was brought there by Czar Peter I from the Low Countries. But, it was his daughter, Czarina Elisabeth Petrovna, who in 1774 decreed the use of cats to rid the palace of mice, which she was genuinely terrified of. Cats have lived in the Winter Palace ever since and have witnessed the passage of Czars, courtesans and the Bolsheviks. Nowadays they share the premises with the museum staff and visitors. Only the siege of Leningrad, which lasted nearly 900 days and sowed famine throughout the city, caused them to vanish temporarily.
There are currently over 60 cats of different breeds roaming through the basements, the offices and the area surrounding the Hermitage, although they are not allowed into the exhibition halls. They even have their own caretaker, Irina Popovets. While the museum does not have a budget for their upkeep, funds are raised for this purpose by different means. They are supported through private patronage and the association, “Feline Friends of the Hermitage”. They have even had exhibitions held in their honour.
Whether you like these whiskered creatures or not, we recommend you book a Vueling to Saint Petersburg to discover one of the world’s largest and finest art collections.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by James Byrum, Brent Ozar, Jorge Cancela, RachelH_
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