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Seville Between Rice Paddies and Salt Marshes

The Guadalquivir Salt Marshes

Stretching across a tract of some 2,000 km2 in the river estuary, between Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, they are part of the Doñana National Park, one of Europe’s largest wetlands. It is home to over 100 bird species which are endemic to the ecosystem and create a stunning spectacle whenever they take off into flight. A land where the birds can be imagined playing flamenco, and the red crabs clapping in unison.

The area provides ideal itineraries for what seasoned travellers like best – to wander off on their own. Literally getting lost here, however, is not that difficult, what with hundreds of unmarked footpaths winding between the rice fields.

Seville’s Amazon

Our itinerary starts along the course of the Guadalquivir and its countless effluents branching off near the river mouth, a picture postcard reminiscent of the Amazon. Located here is Isla Mayor, a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants. Surrounded by grasslands and crop fields, the town appears to turn into a genuine island when flooded. For hiking enthusiasts, there are also a number of routes through the town which can be done by bicycle.

Canoeing devotees should make a point of visiting the Brazo de los Jerónimos, a canal thick with reeds and rushes, which makes paddling along it a unique experience.

Going Back In Time

Crossing from one bank of the Guadalquivir to the other can only be done by taking the Coria del Río ferry. This delightful crossing spanning 300 metres in just 3 minutes is reminiscent of some fast-paced American movie set on the Mississippi or in the Everglades. The crossing takes place with passengers jostling for space with cars, tractors, fishermen, goats and farm motorcycles and is an experience in which time seemingly stands still.

A stunning sight to be had from the riverbank is when a merchant or cruise vessel sails inland with the high tide just a few metres away, bound for the port of Seville, or in the direction of the Atlantic. This astonishing, surreal image will remain in your mind’s eye forever.

Having reached Coria, the itinerary takes us downstream as far as Puebla del Río, along the Calle Arrozal, a land trail winding between poplars and carpeted in spring with grass and wild flowers. On this side of the river, you have the chance to visit such towns as Poblado de las Colinas or Utrera.

Finger-licking Cuisine

After a boat ride, it’s time to enjoy some molletes (muffins) ortoast with colorá lard to regain your strength. This is the most traditional breakfast in the area and any bar worth its salt will offer this spread based on pork lard sprinkled with speckles of meat condimented with garlic, red pepper, oregano, bay leaf and other spices. Even Paco de Lucía himself was bowled over by this delight on the senses, to which he dedicated a few notes and chords in some of his more celebrated melodies.

But, the culinary offerings of these Sevillian wetlands go much further still. Indeed, they are as varied as the landscape itself.

If you happen to be here in June, you can attend the Feria y Fiestas del Arroz y del Cangrejo (Fair and Festival of Rice and Crab), which lasts for five days and provides such typical dishes as tomato crab, crab tails with garlic or sauce, pepper shrimps, duck with rice and salted bleaks.

Restaurants like El Tejao, Sevruga or El Estero offer delicious dishes of crab, elvers, duck, giltheads or bass, served up with the inevitable rice, on the banks of the Guadalquivir.

To taste another essential dish in this area, pheasant with rice, head for the Arco de Colina restaurant – their quality and prices will leave you aghast.

Dare to venture into the Guadalquivir salt marshes? Check out your Vueling to Seville here.

Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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5 Outings Near Nantes

An old port enclave on the banks of the river Loire, Nantes is now best known as Jules Verne’s hometown. It is one of those cities that always lives up to visitors’ expectations. So, too, does the following selection of places located in the vicinity of Brittany’s erstwhile capital, where you will get the chance to visit unique spots, have a whale of a time in the theme parks and explore villages redolent with history. Up for the adventure?

Marais Poitevin
Covering an area of 100,000 hectares and known as “The Green Venice”, the Marais Poitevin is a marshland traversed by the Sèvre Niortaise river before it flows into the Atlantic. It combines areas of dry marsh drained by man and wet marsh, part of which is channelled into navigable canals. Be sure to head for Arçais and Coulon, two of the most prominent communes in the area, where you can hire a boat or kayak to glide along the marsh waters. Or, if you prefer, you can hire a bike and ride along the bicycle paths criss-crossing this land, a natural gem situated just over an hour and a half from Nantes. Don’t miss out on it!

La Rochelle
From the 14th to the 17th century, La Rochelle was one of the leading ports in France and the point of departure for French settlers heading for Canada. Situated just two hours from Nantes, the first thing that strikes visitors to the city are its fortified towers, a throwback to a past marked by war. The Chain Tower and Saint Nicolas Tower once protected the old harbour; the Tower of the Lantern had the function of lighting it up and acting as a beacon for ships, while the Gothic Grosse Horloge or Clock Tower was the gateway into the old city. Another unusual feature of La Rochelle is that a large number of its buildings are made of limestone, prompting it to become known as the Ville Blanche or White City.

Ré Island
A 12-kilometre-long toll bridge joins La Rochelle to what is possibly one of the most picturesque spots on France’s west coast – Ré Island. Measuring 30 by 5 kilometres, the island is home to salt marshes, beaches, vineyards, bird-watching observatories and villages of irresistible charm and is blessed with a mild, pleasant climate for the area. The best way of exploring this fantastic island is by bicycle and, if you can afford to get here off season, you will avoid the crowds and the accommodation crunch (the drawback of any destination which is both beautiful and popular).

Poitiers
Poitiers, which lies about two and a half hours from Nantes, is a city charged with history which you should make a point of visiting. It was founded by a Celtic tribe known as the Pictones and built up by the Romans in the first century AD, later to become an important site in medieval times. Known for its host of churches, which are open to the public, the Church of Notre-Dame la Grande is among the most outstanding, featuring original, 12th-century frescoes in its interior. The best way to tour this city is by strolling through the streets in the old town, where you are bound to get carried away by the medieval atmosphere.

Futuroscope
This popular theme park lies just 10 kilometres north of Poitiers, with attractions based on cutting-edge cinema, audiovisual and robotic technologies. Your time at Futuroscope is sure to provide lots of entertainment and new sensations, and both adults and children will have fun here.

Book your Vueling to Nantes and get ready to enjoy these five locations in the city’s environs.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by TwoWings, Flavio Ensiki, Eric Pouhier, Erwan Deverre, Hamon jp

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6 Reasons To Head For Pisa

It never fails to surprise that the main – and intensely photographed – claim to Pisa’s fame should be a leaning tower with an inclination presaging a long overdue fall. It is not the only tilting building in the city, but it is the most famous one. That’s what comes from daring to site architectural creations of some considerable height on marshy ground. However Pisa is worth a lot more, so take your time to discover all the other facets of this beautiful Tuscan city.

1. Piazza dei Miracoli – The Stellar Landmark

A World Heritage Site, it has the honour of hosting the city’s most visited landmark, as well as being one of the most immortalised in Italy – the Leaning Tower. That is what draws tourists to the square, but there are other architectural gems here, too. Apart from the tower, there is the Duomo with its spectacular central body in bronze, and the pulpit, masterfully carved by Giovanni Pisano from 1302 to 1310; the Baptistry, built from the Romanesque period to the 14th century, its standout feature being the pulpit by Nicola Pisano, regarded as a forerunner of the Renaissance, and the Camposanto with its 600 tombstones, prominent being the frescoes decorating the gallery walls.

2. Pisa’s Other Piazzas

Pisa has other piazzas apart from the Miracoli and more monuments to see than those in the celebrated square. A case in point is the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights’ Square) with its magnificent palaces, notably the Palazzo del Popolo e degli Anziani (Palace of the People and the Elders), the Palazzo dell'Orologio (Clock Palace) and the stunning Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri. For many, though, the greatest attraction is the university atmosphere that pervades the square. The same atmosphere can be had in the Piazza Dante Alighieri, where the standout landmark is the Sapienza, a building housing the Law Faculty and Library of Pisa University.

3. Pisa’s Other Leaning Buildings

Building on marshy ground like in Pisa has its drawbacks, as constructions are likely to become unstable. Thus, the Leaning Tower of Pisa is not the only building affected by this phenomenon. Others which reveal their walls to be tilted include the Duomo and the Baptistry and the campaniles of the Chiesa di San Nicola and Chiesa di San Michele degli Scalzi.

4. Keith Haring’s Mega Graffiti

The only graffiti Keith Haring executed in 1989 as a permanent mural, marking a departure from his custom of producing temporary works, one of the essential traits of graffiti. It is located on the south wall of the Chiesa di Sant'Antonio Abate and covers a surface of 180 square metres. Entitled Tuttomondo, it is a tribute to peace and harmony in the world and is immediately recognisable from his unmistakeable style of simplified human figures.

5. Strolling Along the Arno Riverbank

The river Arno passes through Pisa on the last leg of its journey before flowing into the sea, having left behind the irresistible Florence and much of Tuscany. On its passage through Pisa, the Arno is flanked by splendid palaces, so be sure to wander along the lungarni as the streets bordering the river are known.

6. Upbeat University Atmosphere

Pisa has one of Italy’s most prestigious universities, which accounts for the atmosphere one breathes throughout the city, filled as it is with students. This is also the reason for the host of café terraces and venues where you can stop to refuel on a tour of the city. Apart from sightseeing breathers, it is also the ideal spot for those who like to go out in the evening.

Now that you have the essential pointers for visiting Pisa, all that’s left is to book your Vueling and enjoy it!

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by bvi4092

 

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A Delightful Stroll Through Antwerp

Antwerp lies 50 kilometres from Brussels and is a must-see city if you happen to be in Flanders. There you will find all the ingredients for enjoying a splendid getaway – streets brimming with fashion, a magnificent historic centre with beautiful buildings, including the Rubens House museum, and a culminating tour of the district where 85% of the world’s diamond trade is concentrated – not bad, is it?

One of the best ways to “drop in on” the city is by train as you will be greeted right away by the spectacular Central Station. Built from 1895 to 1905, it consists of a large, formidable structure crowned by a huge dome and decorated in twenty different types of marble, which has earned it the nickname of “marble temple”. No wonder it is regarded as one of the finest stations in the world.

After such a grand reception, the best thing is to head for the city’shistoric centreto rake up vestiges of its splendid past. A must-visit site is the Grote Markt (Main Square), framed by 16th- and 17th-century guild buildings, with pride of place going to the Antwerp City Hall. In the centre of the square stands one of the icons of Antwerp – the fountain of Silvius Brabo. Sculpted in bronze in 1887, the theme relates to the origins of the city. Legend has it that a giant named  Druon Antigoon, who guarded the bridge over the river Scheldt, used to charge a toll for any boats wishing to sail by. Any boatman who refused to pay the fee would have his hand cut off and thrown into the river. One day, the Roman centurion, Silvius Brabo, who had grown tired of this situation, cut off the giant’s hand and threw it into the river, giving rise to the origin of the name Antwerp (Ant= hand, werpen= to throw). No wonder then that a typical local confectionery called handjes is shaped like a hand, in memory of the legendary event.

Pressing on with our downtown walk, we recommend stopping to visit the Cathedral which houses one of Rubens’ masterpieces, The Descent from the Cross. Another sight worth visiting is the Gothic Church of St James, part of the branch of the Road to Santiago which starts in the Netherlands.

Another major landmark in Antwerp is the Rubens House (Rubenshuis), where the painter spent the last 29 years of his life. Now a museum, it successfully conveys how this artistic genius lived and worked. Rubens was one of the favourites of King Philip IV of Spain, his leading patron.

Among the curiosities of this city, which has earned it worldwide fame (notwithstanding its harbour, which is one of the major ports in Europe), is its important role in the diamond trade. The figures talk for themselves: 40% of the world’s industrial diamond is marketed in Antwerp, as is over 85% of rough diamond and 50% of polished diamond – nothing to be scoffed at! The district where all this activity takes place lies south of the Central Station. There, sightseers can visit the Diamond Museum and brush up on their knowledge of this luxurious, highly valuable mineral.

More suited to a variety of budgets is Meir, the city’s most important shopping street, where you can find all sorts of brands sold from the interiors of beautiful 18th- and 19th-century town palaces. Fashion and design are also major players in Antwerp, so be sure to head for Nationalestraat to visit MoMu, the Fashion Museum.

Let yourself be carried away by the charms of this beautiful city – book your Vueling to Brussels here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by tom hartley

 

 

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