Gràcia A District With a Special Flavour
No district of Barcelona has the flavour and personality of Gràcia. The area brings together artists, long-standing neighbours, design and fashion stores and some of the city’s liveliest restaurants and bars. A perennial mix of traditional values and the latest trends, Gràcia is always up with the pulse of the times, yet retains the essence that makes it the favourite haunts of many Barceloners.
As we love strolling leisurely through the area and taking in the atmosphere, we hit the streets to unearth the seven must-visit venues – shops, bars and restaurants – for tapping into the true heartbeat of Gràcia.
Magnesia
Leticia, the owner of Magnesia, draws on the work of local and international artists, showcased in what is one of the best graphic stores in town. The prints rub shoulders with ceramics from the United States, cushions by Shara Porter and jewellery by craftsmen and women from Barcelona. You will be enamoured of this venue and are bound to emerge with something under your arm.
Can Tresó
Located on one of Gràcia’s major thoroughfares, the Can Tresó restaurant can go by unnoticed from the outside. But, once you’ve dined there, you will never forget its presence. The tapas are great – the patatas bravas outstanding – and the signature menu of the day on weekdays is really delicious.
La Mueblerí
This vintage-look store is run by a mother and son. With their finely tuned selection of furniture and other objects, it’s easy to fall for a Scandinavian sideboard, a Vitra table from the 70s or a Manises lamp. What’s more, you can find both designer pieces and other reasonably priced wares to suit all budgets. The premises are spacious and well decorated. Here you breathe closeness, delicateness and good taste, which makes it quite special.
Viblioteca
This is a classic among lovers of cheese, sausage, tartare and good food. Done out in white lines, this restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in Barcelona when it comes to discovering new wines and pairing them with a first-class culinary selection. We recommend you talk to Yolanda, the owner, and let her suggest what to order.
Alzira
Mónica is one of the veterans of vintage in the Gràcia district. Her exquisite sense of taste manifests in a combination of industrial and rustic furniture with some designer pieces, all imbued with a Bochic aesthetic, making this a must-visit store for antique hunters in Barcelona. The bright, airy premises include a patio where one could relax for hours, if one had the time. The furniture and decoration section is rounded off by a frankly irresistible area featuring retro brooches.
Bobby Gin
Going out for a drink in Gràcia at night would never be the same without Bobby Gin. This sophisticated bar serves some of the best gin tonics in Barcelona. Care has been lavished on their decor, down to the last detail, with restored antique doors, and vintage and industrial furniture. But, what makes this venue unique is the large selection of premium gins and tonics. If you are hard put to make a choice, the staff – who really know their stuff – will help you decide. And, if you’d like something to nibble on, themini-coques de Llavaneras pastries are a delicacy you should make a point of tasting.
Casa Atlántica
Hand-painted ceramic crockery, wooden miniatures and retro lamps are some of the items you can find in Casa Atlántica. A store-workshop full of charm opened by the fashion designer, Belén Martínez, and the Portuguese interior designer, Lester Barreto. The interior is unmistakeably Atlantic in appearance and is redolent with priceless details and furniture designed by the owners themselves, transporting you from the Mediterranean to the other side of the Peninsula.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and venture into Gràcia, to be seduced by its charm.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Chaouen A Walk Through the Blue City
The city of Chaouen is located in the north-east of Morocco, some 60 kilometres from Tetouan. Its narrow streets and whitewashed houses, most of them in blue and white, are strangely reminiscent of the villages in the Alpujarra mountains of Granada. This comes as no surprise if you consider that centuries ago this area in the Rif mountains was settled by a large number of exiles from al-Andalus. Here, especially, what was originally a Berber settlement was transformed in 1471 into a town where Muslims and Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula by the Catholic Kings sought refuge. This accounts for the city’s unique ties to the Andalusian towns which they hailed from, where they derived the centuries-old customs they brought to this land.
One of the main reasons why a trip to this mountainous area is really worthwhile is that Chaouen (known variously as Chefchaouen, Chaouen or Xauen) appears to be frozen in time. It has hardly evolved at all over the centuries as it was considered a holy city. This is also why it was off limits to foreigners. Hence, when you first arrive and start wandering along its narrow streets, where it is rather difficult to get your bearings, you are suddenly gripped by the feeling of having stepped back into the Middle Ages. To compound this impression, in the Old Town the only way of getting around is on donkey back, which heightens the feeling of being a time traveller.
One of the major draws in Chaouen is the Medina or Old Town with its white-and-blue houses, a striking sight for visitors, who find them difficult to resist photographing. The main square, Place Outa el-Hammam, is the nerve centre of the Medina. It is the ideal spot for sipping a cup of tea while soaking up the atmosphere, or for tasting the local cuisine served in restaurants in the surrounding area. Also in the square stands the Kasbah, a fortress built in the 15th century, the interior of which can be visited, and the Great Mosque, its standout feature being its original, octagonal-shaped minaret. Near the square is the old caravanserai, where merchants used to stop over and sell their wares. Currently it hosts numerous local artisans who engage in their crafts and here you can pick up some picturesque homemade souvenirs.
Unlike in other Moroccan towns, in Chaouen it is easy to move around the old medina without being hassled by hawkers, which makes a visit even more pleasurable and relaxing. So, shopping enthusiasts, be sure to head for the souk, which runs from the archway marking the entrance to the medina as far as Outa el-Hammam Square. Get ready to go on a great shopping spree, with haggling included, of course.
A good panoramic view of the city can be had from Bab Onsar gate, in the north-east. Here you will also come across the fountain known as Ras el Maa, with a waterfall and a public washhouse which is still in use, as women come here every day to wash clothes by hand. A road leads from here to the Jemaa Bouzafar mosque, which is a 30-minute walk. The experience is well worth the effort.
Fire up and explore this jewel of northern Morocco situated 115 kilometres from Tangier – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by subherwal
more infoTo the Carnival Beat in Tenerife
No question about it – there is one time in the year when Santa Cruz de Tenerife comes alive, and that is at Carnival time. It is world famous, extremely popular and one of the biggest on earth, rivalling Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (it’s twin city) and Venice. Tourists, sightseers and fun lovers who head for this spot in the Canary Island archipelago end up hopelessly drawn in by the beat, the dazzle and the colour of this splendid fiesta. Lasting for a month, it features a host of activities showcasing mainly music and fancy dress.
This time around, the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife lasts from 1 February to 5 March. As in previous years, thousands of people in fancy dress roam the streets, eager to fall under the spell of Carnival magic. The festivities are hosted by over a hundred groups of around fifty people each, compering murgas (ensembles singing to satirical lyrics), comparsas (dancing carnival troupes), fancy dress groups, rondallas (street bands) and musical troupes – quite a feat! Take note of the following rundown of the highlights of the Tenerife Carnival for your requisite getaway.
The Carnival Queen
One of the loveliest moments in the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival is the Gran Gala, at which the Carnival Queen is elected. Beholding the spectacular costumes studded with rhinestones, glittering ornaments and elegant feathers is a magical experience. Amazingly, those costumes can weigh up to between 150 and 200 kilos and have to be transported on wheels. A stunning, must-see extravaganza!
The Opening Horse Parade
As its name suggests, this event marks the start of Carnival and what better way to get the ball rolling? In style, with a spectacular horse parade at which all the Carnival troupes march past, including the queens and maids of honour, who ride in carriages escorted by the troupes. Four hours of rhythmic percussion and Latin beat which extend well into the night.
Carnival Saturday
Another date to jot down on your Carnival agenda is Carnival Saturday, when the streets of the city again become inundated with music and dance. Most of the activity is centred around the Plaza de la Candelaria, the Plaza del Príncipe and the Plaza de Europa.
The Gran Coso Apoteosis
This celebration, the veritable closing ceremony of Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, is possibly one of the most exciting moments in the festivities. It is the day all the carnival troupes, carriages, floats and queens parade along the Avenida de Anaga, marking the grand finale of Carnival proceedings.
Ash Wednesday
Like any Carnival worth its salt, the arrival of Lent is heralded by the “burial of the sardine”. The event takes place in the main city streets, suitably draped in mourning, with balconies sporting black ribbons. A giant sardine is paraded through the streets, before being ceremoniously burned at the end of its itinerary. The Tinerfeños or inhabitants of Tenerife bid farewell to Carnival by staging their sorrow in the form of a lament, although they also mark the occasion in comical satire and by lampooning the Church. So, don’t be surprised if, while wandering through the streets, you come across people dressed up mostly as priests, bishops or monks carrying sexual props of all kinds.
Book your Vueling to Tenerife, don your fancy dress and get into festive mood as you attend one of the most popular Carnivals in the world.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Image by Philippe Teuwen
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24 Culinary Hours in Dublin
Alongside the perennial pubs, Dublin has a profusion of cafés, eateries specialising in particular bites, and signature cuisine gastrobars where you can spend hours on end. If, however, you have only a few hours to spare in the city, here are some spots no food or drink devotee should fail to visit.
The best coffee. 3fe lavish extreme care in making and serving it up in their two premises – one of which offers market cuisine, too. Their coffee comes from a variety of sources and they feature a huge selection of flavours and aromas to suit the customer. You can taste some on the premises or buy it as a takeaway. You will also enjoy excellent coffee at Kaph, a large café with good pastries.
The best chocolate. To be had at Cocoa Atelier, bang in the city centre. They offer it in slabs, as chocolates or as a hot chocolate beverage to drink, take away or gift. These are craft products and largely creative, judging from the combinations they propose. The shop alone is well worth the visit.
The best burger. In terms of great value for money, you will jump at the hamburgers in Bunsen. All their eats fit on what is virtually a calling-card-type box, served up with sauces and chips – also homemade. The fires burn around the clock in a venue which is always crammed with customers.
The best brunch. The most popular custom in these climes and the most practical option for locals; so, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. Many establishments serve brunches beyond Sundays and the classic is to be had at Odessa, where you will taste the purest Irish tradition.
The best views. For a table with great views, even outdoors, go for Sophie’s. A 360° panorama over the capital with open kitchen, a stately bar counter for your aperitif, post-prandial liqueur or afterwork cocktail, and a rooftop terrace with heaters, just in case. They dish up generous helpings of Mediterranean-style food. Ideal for a date, a get-together among friends and even a Sunday brunch.
The best tea. We had one at Clement & Pekoe, where they also show you the proper way to make it. Variety, nuances, homemade pastries to go with it and a convivial atmosphere in the city’s most commercial precinct.
The best author cuisine. Both Forest Avenue and Forest & Marcy have a charm of their own, grounded in a common philosophy. These bistronomic restaurants seat few, far removed from the fast food concept and the classic pub, so it is essential to book in advance. An establishment on the outskirts of town, Heron & Grey, stands out for its haute cuisine and Michelin star, but you won’t get a table before next September. Another interesting option is the gastropub, The Old Spot.
The best cocktail. You can grab a pint anywhere, and anyone can even quaff one in the middle of the street without waiting for nightfall. But, if you’re looking for something other than the clichéd black ale, head for the bar counter at refurbished The Pichet and order one of their signature cocktails in the heart of Temple Bar, before moving on to the very crowded The Ivy.
Get ready to delve into Dublin’s culinary facet – book your Vueling here.
Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas
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