Calle Feria Market route
Seville is home to a special colour, wonderful people, genuine bars and well kept secrets like the Market in calle Feria. Seville is brimming with magic, charm, spirit and Andalusian pride like very few other Mediterranean cities. Everyone who lives there feels very proud to be Sevillian and would never swap their city for any other. It doesn’t matter if you are a native of Seville or have just arrived from another part of the world, the important thing is to be Sevillian, to feel like a Sevillian and to die a Sevillian.
Let’s discover a part of Seville recommended to us by the festival organisers Territorios Sevilla, the Seville of the Encarnación district, the Market in calle Feria.
We start in the Plaza de la Encarnación, known locally as “plaza de la seta” (mushroom square).
On the day we visited and just like in many other squares in other Spanish cities, a silent and peaceful protest was taking place by the so-called 15-M movement. The Sevillians are proud of this square to which they have given the nickname ‘la plaza de la seta’ and it is the gateway to the Encarnación district. We head to the market in calle Feria because Maider from Territorios Sevilla has recommended it as the perfect spot to savour the local tapas. The area is very well known amongst Seville’s local population and it is off the usual beaten tourist tracks.
2. Reinas
As we head in the direction of the market, we stumble across a place that forces us to make a stop. The place in question is called Reinas and has a very stylish type of wine cellar. We chat with Antonio who tells us a little bit about the philosophy of Reinas. The general concept is to suggest good wines and offer cold dishes that complement the wine being recommended. At Reinas, it is the wine that defines the food – not the other way around. Antonio is a lover of wine and food and it could be said he belongs to the good living club.
Continuing along the same street a bit further on we come across a book shop specialising in art: Un Gato en Bicicleta.
It seems like we have embarked on a journey down the perfect street, two special places within metres of each other. This is confirmed when just a little way further down the street we find Botellas y Latas and between the owner Carlos and his local Sevillian customers, we learn about the marvels of the place: Botellas y Latas is another of Seville’s hidden treasures definitely worth a visit.
Between the warmth of the Sevillian people and the heat of the sun, a stop for a cool beer en route to the calle Feria Market is an absolute must. Casa Vizcaíno is the ideal spot to try an Andalusian beer. The place is spectacular with its carpet of peanut shells on the floor, thus making it as one of those highly recommendable, traditional bars to be found in the Andalusian capital.
Finally we arrive at the Calle Feria Market and it seems like we have found the perfect location to eat in Seville. Good food, warm people, welcoming surroundings, informal and grilled sardines to die for. Worth mentioning is the stall we had something to eat at, the Bar La Cantina with its exquisite food, friendly service, wonderful terrace and the lovely warm ambience among its clientele.
The sun beats down and following the directions given to us by the locals, we return to the plaza de la Encarnación by a different route where we discover more authentic shops in the Andalusian capital, a good old fashioned chocolate shop called El Comercio and a charming square called la plaza del Pan where you can sit in the shade and enjoy a good cup of coffee.
Image: Liu Yu Cheng
Why not take a trip to Sevilla? Have a look at our flights here!
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Birmingham and the Birth of Heavy Metal
Birmingham has long been characterised by its strong musical drive. In the sixties, it already had 600 pop and rock bands. Musically speaking, the Birmingham scene stood out for its fusion. Indeed, almost all the musicians in those groups also played in parallel bands. Even soloists eschewed being pigeon-holed and poured out a blend of styles in their live shows. The fact is that musical amalgamations have been part of the city’s DNA since the 18th century, when street musicians sounded out practically all the styles to be had. Diversity and the culture of experimentation have led Birmingham to engender several musical styles. In the sixties, it was the Spencer Davis Group super band that provided the finishing touches to British rhythm and blues through a combination of folk, jazz, blues and soul. Although Pink Floyd were the initiators, English psychodelics was consolidated in Birmingham by The Move. But, there is one style that became a mass, global phenomenon – heavy metal – which germinated in the early seventies and was captained by Black Sabbath.
Macho Rock
Heavy metal has always been regarded as the epitome of hard rock. Not for nothing did it emerge as a far more extreme form of rock than anything that went before it. But, why in Birmingham and not in London? For the simple reason that it emerged in the centre of the country where trade, information and trends were continually converging. In effect, this enclave lay halfway between the country’s two major musical poles. One was London, with its white, hard-blues bands, many of whom had conquered America in the previous years. The other, Liverpool, a veritable nursery of melodic pop. Aside from being a nexus between the two, Birmingham contributed its grain of sand by incorporating jazz as a condiment. But, that was not all – darkness, and the repetitive, mechanical component associated with a city smothered in factories since the Industrial Revolution, proved to be more than latent. All these components came together in the early records of Black Sabbath – “Black Sabbath” (1970) and “Paranoid” (1972). While the former still rested on the solid springboard of unmitigated blues, the latter heralded the birth of a new style, with a far more polished sound, suited to a wider audience. The disc topped the charts in the UK, and reached number 8 in the USA. That recording hit a milestone beyond the reach of most, and its influence was decisive in the birth of punk (Sex Pistols), post-punk (Joy Division), stoner rock (Kyuss), grunge (Nirvana, Soundgarden, Mudhoney, Alice in Chains), and even rap (Ice-T, Cypress Hill).
The Father of the Child
Controversy is rife when it comes to asserting the paternity of the genre. There are two schools of thought – those who believe Led Zeppelin to be the pioneering band, and those who hold it to be the combo led by Ozzy Osbourne. At any rate, gestation clearly occurred in Birmingham and a large number of members of both groups hail from this city. All the members of Black Sabbath were nurtured on the local scene. Half of Led Zeppelin, too, as John Bohnam (drums) and Robert Plant (vocals) are local boys, having previously played in Band of Joy.
Conquering the World
Heavy metal managed to spread across the planet thanks to another Birmingham band – Judas Priest. Led by Rob Halford, they ratcheted the style up another notch, particularly with the release of “Stained Class” (1978), a disc that spearheaded what was known as the “new wave of British heavy metal”, which involved ditching the blues rock influence for good and focusing on other aspects of sound, such as power and speed. Their legacy sprouted ramifications in the form of speed metal, trash metal, death metal and black metal, and essential bands like Godflesh and Napalm Death. Their influence, however, was not only musical but also aesthetic, as it was they who ushered in prototypal heavy metal attire, based on leather, studs and the biker look.
A Heavy DNA Beyond Heavy
Many artificers of heavy metal music have sprung from the Birmingham scene, notably Blaze Bayley, Iron Maiden’s vocalist from 1994 to 1999. There are also those whose music, while not attributable to this genre, certainly influenced it in some way. Some of the most illustrious examples are Nick Mason, Pink Floyd’s drummer; Jeff Lynne, composer and singer with Electric Light Orchestra; Phil Lynott, the leader of Thin Lizzy – who was christened at St Edwards Church in Selly Park, very near Birmingham – and Marin Barre, the guitarist for Jethro Tull.
Birmingham’s musical spirit remains intact. Two scenes can currently be identified, both in rock and electronic. The city also boasts some of the most exciting festivals in the West Midlands, such as the Moseley Folk Festival, held in September.
Heavy metal never dies! Why wait any longer to discover the birthplace of this genre? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Cindy Frey, Rowan Peter
more infoThere’s Life Way Beyond Barcelona’s Gayxample
While Madrid’s gay epicentre is based on Chueca, Barcelona’s equivalent is the so-called Gayxample. In other words, the rectangle in the Eixample Esquerra district bounded by the streets Balmes, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, Comte d’Urgell and Aragó. And, the supply of bars and clubs mutates with the force of a tsunami each season. A prominent example are the discos at Club Arena, open from Monday to Sunday, a readily available resource for tourists and locals who can afford to stay the night. Sited in the same area is the Hotel Axel. When it opened in 2003, it became the first hetero-friendly hotel both in Barcelona and the world. The penthouse terrace is a classic place of pilgrimage where summer trippers can show off the muscles they have been working on all year around. No wonder it is one of the most popular stopovers during the Circuit Festival, which this year takes place from 2 to 14 August.
While Gayxample is a major hub of activity, the action also goes beyond its limits. One identity trait of Barcelona is its cosmopolitan ethos and the fact that all gays can find both bars and parties tailored to their needs in other districts. For instance, despite the closure of the iconic La Penúltima, in El Raval district, modern clientele have such alternatives as Zelig where, apart from the gin tonic de rigueur, you can also eat a good dish of pasta or some Dutch delicacy. Also on hand is La Casa de la Pradera (c/ Carretes, 57), a bar with a dance floor which would be perfect for those likely to migrate to the Sala Apolo later on, or, with their foot off the pedal, have enough with making the most of weekends until three in the morning. Another of the bars which has become all the rage is La Federica, (c/ de Salvà, 3), strategically located in Poble Sec. It has become one of the fetish spots of the city’s hipster crowd in record time. If you’re not one to dance through the night and prefer to just chill out on a drink, this is one of your best options.
Metro, which also opens every day of the week, is still one of the city’s classic clubs. However, if anything typifies current hedonism it is the monthly parties – held practically every week at some venue – which draw hundreds of souls eager to paint the town red. One of the most veteran such raves is Pop Air, which is usually hosted on the first Friday of the month in the Sala Tango (c/ Diputació, 94) and pulls the bears and followers of fur in the pop-lovers city. Similarly, once a month also sees the Sala Apolo (c/ Nou de la Rambla, 113) staging Somoslas for enthusiasts of burning calories to the rhythm of electronic music, and Under (c/ Tarragona, 141), featuring one of the youngest parties on the circuit. Then there is Tanga Party, which has a house section and an even larger area given over to enlightened rave-ups. An upshot of the meteoritic success of the Tanga (which is even celebrated in Madrid), this coming Sunday, 17 July, its creators will be launching La Piscini (en La Carpa Barcelona, Avenida Manuel Azaña 21-23), a new event which, over and above just music, has as its main attraction a giant tub to douse in. It is shaping up to be a great way to beat the heat.
Also on Sunday, the classic Churros con Chocolate, to be held in the Sala Apolo, is by far one of the most crowded parties. Just like La Ká (at the Sala Plataforma, c/ Nou de la Rambla, 145), it is admission-free, so we recommend you don’t delay your arrival too much at either venue if you want to avoid getting stuck in endless queues – don’t say we didn’t warn you! Check out our flights and come and discover them for yourself.
Text by Sergio del Amo for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoSweet Stopovers in Paris
A gourmand is someone who relishes good food and hearty eating. Those of you who identify with the word “gourmand” have the perfect excuse to visit Paris this coming May and hone your skills at the Taste of Paris. This gastronomy festival, to be held from 18 to 21 May in the Grand Palais, will feature the best culinary creations and products from Paris and environs. Here, we propose a tour of the sweetest establishments in the French capital to whet your appetite. Oh là là!
Fine Chocolate
Among the accolades won by Patrick Roger is his first prize in the Grand Prix International du Chocolat in 1994 and the award for the Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2000. He is unquestionably the most famous chocolatier in France and a sculpture enthusiast to boot. Combining both these passions of his, he works his raw materials into amazing, large-scale chocolate creations, so it’s quite an experience to visit his shop. And, while you’re there, be sure to try his praline with roasted almonds or hazelnuts, his truffles or his dark chocolate, which he coats with bitter orange. Delightful!
A Great Brunch
Brunch is on the up-and-up in Paris, where numerous cafés and pastry shops offer this breakfast-lunch combination. As we were unable to decide which was our favourite establishment, we have opted to recommend two of them. Biglove Caffè makes the tastiest pancakes in town – plump, light and soft. Fillings include caramel, jam, chocolate and others. Then there is Peco Peco, where you will discover the finest Japanese brunch. Here, the traditional scones have been replaced by sashimi, algae salad, tatakis, etc. and they are all scrumptious!
A Fine “Saint Honoré”
The folks at the Hugo & Victor pâtisserie define their creations as “sweet gastronomy”. They have risen to become one of the leading establishments in Paris in just a few years and have earned acclaim mainly for their fruit tarts, choux pastry filled with custard and, above all, their “Saint Honoré”, a French speciality consisting of profiteroles set on a cylindrical base of pastry coated with custard and whipped cream. One of the peculiarities of Hugo & Victor is that they adapt this traditional pastry to match the products in season – chestnuts, strawberries and even mojito. Oh mon Dieu!
Fine Gluten-Free Pastries
Noglu specialises in all kinds of gluten-free pastries – brioches, escargots (snails), chouquettes (sugar-topped pastry puffs decorated with icing sugar), pain au chocolat (a chocolate viennoiserie sweet roll), croissants… The brunch menu is rounded off with jams, butter, honey, gourmet teas, cold soups and natural fruit juices. All homemade. Yummy!
A Great Rum Baba
Pain de Sucre is undoubtedly one of the most prestigious pâtisseries in Paris. Their fare reveals a perfect combination of flavours and meticulous attention to detail in the presentation, so that all their items look mouth-watering. Their chocolate and mint eclair is as intense as it is fresh and refined, while the rum baba (baba au rhum), above all, is unique. Lighter than a sponge cake, it is coated with whipped cream and soaked in rum, with a rum-dripped dropper which allows you to drench this pastry creation to taste.
Macaroons, Cream Caramel and Pain au Chocolat
If you happen to be in Paris and are sweet-toothed, you are bound to have programmed into your tour schedule a visit to Ladurée, an acclaimed pâtisserie with a classical aesthetic renowned for their macarons (macaroons). These are sold in boxes and vary in terms of current trends and seasonal fluctuations. And, they’re really worth getting hold of because, apart from the establishment’s major marketing splurge – which has earned them international fame – their creations are truly exquisite. But, Paris is also home to another master pastry chef who some say makes even better macaroons than his main rival – we are referring to Pierre Hermé. His shop offers an endless array of intense flavours, and you should also taste the vanilla cream caramel (well worth the €5 tab), as well as theirpain au chocolat.
Delicious Croissants
It defies all logic that in the capital of the croissant it has become increasingly more difficult to find a good homemade specimen. However, at Blé Sucré you will encounter a croissant made by the master pastissier, Fabrice Le Bourdat, who has trailblazed his career in the world’s leading kitchens. His puff pastry, which resembles a stack of micro-leaves, wrapped in the most appetising gold jacket, reveals an intense flavour of butter and caramel. Crisp at first bite, giving way to a creamy yet consistent interior. Have one with a good café au lait on the small, pleasant terrace with views over a park to celebrate the return of the good weather.
Fire up and bring out the gourmand inside you – book your Vueling here.
Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
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