Keep calm and visit a museum
It probably can’t boast about having the best weather or food, but London is one of the world’s great centres of art production and exhibition. Its museums are a must-visit for expert and amateur museum-goers, as well as tourists who relish wandering through the kilometres of galleries to admire an Assyrian relief dating back 2,600 years, or paintings by Caravaggio or Turner, Charles Dickens’ original manuscripts or Pop Art silk screen prints by Andy Warhol.
The fact is London has museums for all tastes. From small and medium-sized private collections to the homes of illustrious figures, and large museums where you can spend days on end, if you feel so inclined. What’s more, most of them are admission-free. We toured the city, and here are our findings regarding the ten museums you simply shouldn’t miss.
1. British Museum – A Walk Through Archaeology
Going to London and not visiting the British Museum is like going to Madrid and not having a calamari sandwich. Among the oldest museums in Europe, it houses one of the most prestigious archaeological collections in the world. Here you will find such celebrated artefacts as the Rosetta Stone, the friezes from the Parthenon of Athens and a display of Egyptian art matched only by the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The British Museum is in the district of Bloomsbury, a short distance from Tottenham Court Road and Russell Square, housed in one of the most striking Neoclassical buildings in England.
2. National Gallery – the Temple of Painting
If visiting London without going into the British Museum is like visiting Madrid and not eating a calamari sandwich, then touring the city without setting foot in the National Gallery is like going to Rome and not trying a dish of pasta. Presiding over the immensity of Trafalgar Square, London’s National Gallery is home to some of the most famous canvases in art history, notably Jan van Eyck’s The Arnolfini Portrait, Rokeby Venus by Velázquez or Bathers by Paul Cézanne.
3. Tate Modern – for the Creative
Opened in the year 2000, a former power station on the bank of the Thames houses Britain's national gallery of international modern art, known as the Tate Modern. It is one of the city’s major attractions and boasts one of the most comprehensive modern art collections in the world. Here you can see works by Picasso, Dalí, Mark Rothko or Andy Warhol, while their excellent schedule of temporary exhibitions enables enthusiasts to keep up-to-date with the leading artists of the moment.
4. Wallace Collection – An Oasis in the City Centre
If there was a single word to define The Wallace Collection, it might well beoasis. This erstwhile family residence is located in the heart of London, a stone’s throw away from Oxford Street and Selfridges department store. Much of the original decor remains intact and the mansion houses a collection of art, weapons and objects which the Wallace family bequeathed to the British state in 1897. Works by Rembrandt, Velázquez, Titian, Canaletto and Fragonard rub shoulders with sumptuous chandeliers, vases and chimneys in this must-see landmark. The museum is quiet, admission-free and not too large, ideal for those seeking to avoid crowds and not get museum legs from too much walking. Be sure to have afternoon tea in the museum’s elegant covered court before leaving.
5. Tate Britain – British Style
Opened in 1897, this museum boasts a large collection of historical and contemporary British art. The major draw in the exhibition is the section dedicated to William Turner, one of Britain’s most famous painters, whose life was dramatised in the award-winning 2014 film, Mr. Turner, starring Timothy Spall in the title role. There is a boat service connecting the Tate Britain to the Tate Modern, so there is no excuse not to visit both museums and have a stroll along the bank of the Thames.
6. Victoria and Albert Museum – Art in the Service of Empire
Covering an area of 45,000 square metres, the Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the most spectacular museums in London. Located in the exclusive area of South Kensington, it features a truly amazing collection of decorative art. Items on display range from ivories to oriental textiles, goldsmithery, ceramics, glass and building fragments. The architecture of the building is eminently majestic, too, featuring large galleries and courts containing life-size replicas of Trajan’s Column and the Pórtico da Gloria from the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – incredible!
7. Charles Dickens Museum – A Literary House
Oliver Twist and David Copperfield are two of the most famous novels of all time, while their author, Charles Dickens, is one of the great geniuses of English literature. Born in Portsmouth, Dickens spent most of his life in London. Although he lived in various houses, the one at 48 Doughty Street in the central district of Holborn is the site of the museum dedicated to this literary figure. Here, the writer lived with his family from 1837 to 1839, a comparatively brief yet fertile period in which some of his most celebrated works were written. Venturing into this Georgian house is like travelling back in time – a highly enjoyable experience, as the rooms have been kept the way they were in Dickens’ time. Rounding off the visit is an exhibition of the writer’s personal belongings and his manuscripts.
8. Handel & Hendrix – A House of the Baroque… and Rock, Too
What do the guitarist Jimi Hendrix and the composer Georg Friedrich Händel have in common? Well, they both lived in the same house, although with a 200-year separation in time. To be more exact, Handel resided at 25 Brook Street, while Hendrix lived at number 23. Two adjoining houses which can be visited together. Handel lived here from 1723 until his death in 1759. Four of the rooms have been re-constructed, including the bedroom and dining-room, and some of the composer’s music and personal items are on display. If you’re lucky, you might also be in for one of the concerts organised there from time to time. The home of Jimi Hendrix, where he lived in 1968 and 1969, features an exhibition highlighting the musician’s important role and influence in 1960s London.
9. The Queen’s Gallery – In Queen Elizabeth’s Home
The British love of monarchy is well known, so before leaving London, it is worth getting a feel for the esteem in which Elizabeth II is held by the people. And, the best way to get to know someone is by visiting her home. The Queen’s Gallery is located at one end of Buckingham Palace, the Queen’s official residence in London, where temporary exhibitions of items from the Royal Collection are held. If you’re due to be in London in summer, check out the events calendar beforehand. The Gallery opens for a few weeks and is a veritable experience.
10. Saatchi Gallery – In Line With the Latest Trends
Avant-garde and ground-breaking, the Saatchi Gallery is one of the great cutting-edge exhibition centres in Europe. Opened in the early eighties to display the art collection of the publicist and art collector, Charles Saatchi, it was bequeathed to the British government in 2010. It is one of the most frequently visited museums in the world and the ideal spot to become familiar with artists and art movements. Even those not moved by art will be impressed by this museum. It is located in the heart of the Chelsea district, an area frequented by London’s elite, so you will feel like a celebrity when you visit.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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The beauty and Magic of Lisbon
Por Tensi Sánchez de Actitudes Magazine
Lisbon is without doubt one of the most beautiful and magical cities in Europe. As soon as you arrive, you feel immersed in a world of new sensations that only Lisbon can offer. Historic Lisbon stands in perfect harmony alongside the more modern features of this vanguard city, where its wide range of leisure activities and cultural options have made it a highly fashionable destination. Each area of the city offers a vast array of attractions to make sure you’ll always have plenty to do and the streets are teeming with ambience both day and night.
Lisbon’s winding and sometimes steep streets can make it difficult to get around the city, but the public transport services and even taxis are not expensive.
Here are some useful travel tips that don’t appear in many guidebooks.
Port – Santa Apolonia area
This is a fairly new part of the city that has attracted many new restaurants and shops to set up in old port warehouses, creating some unique and spectacular spaces. Be sure to visit the excellent delicatessens or have breakfast at Gourmet Deli Deluxe, try the international dishes at Bica do Sapato restaurant and the vintage furniture shop known as Loja da Talaia.
This area also boasts some fabulous nightspots, including the famous LUX discotheque, but if you’re not on the “guest list” or you know someone who can get you in, the queues outside are horrendous, though it’s well worth the hassle.
Bairro Alto – Principe Real area
Barrio Alto is home to the Principe Real area, an old residential district next to the Botanical Gardens and where you’ll find many of the city’s most modern shops and restaurants, including trend-setting concept stores Espacio B, 21 pr Concept Store, Real and Fabrico Infinito.
If you love fashion, be sure to visit such shops as Nuno Gama, Alexandra Moura, Kolovrat, Ricardo Preto and Nuno Baltazar. These top designers all attend Moda Lisboa, Portugal’s most important biannual fashion show that is becoming increasingly famous the world over.
Next on our route is Poison d’amour, a cake shop that is sure to make your mouth water, boasting a wonderful terrace where you can enjoy a moment of pure magic. The terrace of the Lost In café-bar, which has an Indian-style decor, offers breathtaking views over the city. For some authentic Portuguese home-cooking, we highly recommend Tasca Do Urso at 32 Rua Do Monte Olivete. And last but not least, theFacto Royale hair salon with its exquisite decor and reputation as one of the finest in the city.
Baixa and Chiado area.
A great way to spend the afternoon is to stroll through the streets of Baixa and Chiado, taking in the most authentic side of Lisbon, its houses, cafés, streets… this is home to a shop called Pelcor, famous throughout Portugal for its cork fashion accessories and incredible handbags. Along Rua Nova do Carvalho you’ll find a bar called Sol y Pesca where you can enjoy a glass of fine wine, then go for a cocktail in the pub known as Pensao Amor, a former brothel that has managed to preserve much of its original decor and boasting a replica of the Sistine Chapel ceiling. Don’t miss even the smallest detail!
Close by is the restaurant La Velha Senhora offering superb local cuisine at affordable prices.
Alcántara area
Another of Lisbon’s lesser known gems, this area is home to some of the city’s coolest shops, cafés and restaurants, alongside the trendiest advertising agencies and photographic studios.
It’s like a small city in itself, a dream factory where everything is ad hoc and created for LX Factory.
Sunday is the perfect time to visit this area and check out the LX Market where you can find fabulous porcelain, books, clothes, live music, etc.…All the shops and businesses have managed to preserve the essence and decor of the industrial spaces they once were. There are over one hundred unique premises, such as the stunning Achimpa bookshop, La Cantina restaurant and even a press kiosk inside a container called Mag. All this and so much more is available in LX Factory.
Olivais area
Another fascinating area to see is the so-called new Lisbon which arose from the EXPO 1998 World Exhibition. If you like architecture, you’ll love the Portuguese Pavilion by Álvaro Siza, winner of the Pritzker prize, along with many others. The area is fully inhabited and all the pavilions have been reused. A fine example of urban renewal that other European cities would do well to copy.
The Expo area gives shape to the Olivais district, which is linked to the city via underground, Vasco da Gama Bridge (the longest in Europe), and the intermodal station designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Must-do
*Try the best sweet in the city (and it’s not the famous Bethlehem Cake) at the cake shop called Pastelería do restelo “Careca” on Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira. The delicious Palmees do Careca!
*Admire the work of a possible future Pritzer prize winner, Charles Correa, the Champalimaud Foundation building and have lunch in the incredible Darwin restaurant on Avenida de Brasilia.
*Choose a good hotel such as Eurostars Das Letras offering first-class service to make your stay even more enjoyable.
*Visit the MUDE museum of fashion and design, a building dating to the 1950s and former headquarters of Banco Nacional Ultramarino. Its original use can still be appreciated thanks to the decadent industrial ambience that makes it all the more fascinating.
By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine
Photos by Rubén Seco
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more infoThe Wild Wild West Zurich’s Trendiest Hotspot
Welcome to Zurich West– the trendy, creative, gastronomic, nocturnal district of Zurich! It may not seem so, but this is Zurich, too! Forget everything you have learned and discard your picture postcards – no lake with crystal-clear water, no quaint streets or luxury stores; just brick, concrete and cranes surrounded by hoardings. Where’s the catch? Well, this is the anti-Zurich,the more casual, urbane and cosmopolitan precinct.
The fact is that all-powerful Zurich has undergone a radical facelift and its flagship is none other than Zurich West, its former industrial district. In less than two decades, it has become Switzerland’s engine of modernity, imbuing it with a trendiness on a par with Berlin, London and New York.
Once Upon a Time There Was An Industrial District…
Running alongside Hardbrücke, on the western side of the city, Kreis 5 or Industriequartier, as the area is also known, emerged as an industrial site in the 20th century. However, industrial activity in the area went into sharp decline in the late 1980s, after which derelict warehouses, factories and workshops were soon reclaimed by artists and designers from the underground scene. Alternative art venues were opened and illegal parties were hosted which became celebrated in half of Europe.
Full-scale change, however, arrived with the new millennium and Kreis 5 (meaning “District 5” in German) underwent a feverish transformation, which continues apace today. Now, where ships, soap and turbines were once manufactured, the machines have gone quiet and given way to art, design, gastronomy and music, as well as to businesses, flats and hotels. Attesting to the area’s industrial past is the overwhelming size of the streets, the monumental factory structures and the colossal railway tracks.
With an unabashed eclectic mix of past and future, brick buildings with steel and glass skyscrapers and a cityscape constantly being redefined, Zurich West exercises a magnetic pull that attracts the Swiss and foreigners alike, turning it into a seething, multicultural melting pot. Seduced by its alternative atmosphere and its formidable terrain, we start off on our journey!
Im Viadukt – Shop Till You Drop!
Chic, local designer stores, architects’ studios, cafés and organic food stalls rub shoulders in Im Viadukt, a vibrant shopping paradise built under the arches of the old rail bridge. Here you will find everything, from cut flowers to bicycle bells. Beware, though – you won’t pick up any bargains, as the idea of “cheap” is not included in the Swiss dictionary.
If you’re feeling peckish, the Markthalle offers zero-mile products, and its restaurant, fresh lunch fare at reasonable prices. Sundays are devoted to brunches, but book ahead it you want to avoid being crowded out. The upbeat ambience dovetails into the night and bars are full to bursting of young people sipping Prosecco in the Ambrosi, biding their time for some concert in the Bogen F.
Around Frau Gerolds Garten
A jumbled network of gardens, designer stores and dance clubs range back-to-back along Geroldstrasse. In the middle, a pile of transport containers reminiscent of a Lego on a grand scale, abandoned to their fate – this is Frau Gerolds Garten, an urban oasis which smacks of DIY and a hipster hubpar excellence. In summer, an open-air market springs up here on Saturdays, to be replaced in winter by fondues to beat the cold. It fills up at midday with people having coffee among plants and graffiti, and at night with those having their “first” before descending on the neighbouring clubs. Be sure to soak up the panoramic views from the upper terraces – the trains pass by on eye level and, if you’re lucky, you can make out the Alps in the distance.
A stone’s throw away lie two institutions of alternative clubbing. The iconic Hive is a temple of electronic music, while the veteran Supermarket attracts youngsters who dance to house and techno until dawn. Indeed, when it comes to clubbing, Zurich is queen and Zurich West the base camp for the electronic and experimental scene.
Before leaving the area, we do a spot of shopping. At Bogen 33 and Walter you can pick up vintage furniture. And, in a 25-metre-high tower pile of containers, the Swiss label Freitag flaunts its recycled bags made of truck awnings. A recycled building for a recycled product – Freitag has become a veritable symbol of Zurich West’s contemporary industrial style and its leading ambassador. The views from the rooftop are amazing; there is even a telescope if you want to capture things in detail!
Touching the Stars in Prime Tower
126 metres and 36 storeys establish Prime Tower as the tallest building in Zurich. The green-skinned building was unveiled in 2011 and towers over the city, acting as the new standard-bearer of modern architecture and economic development in the area.
Set on the top floor is the Clouds restaurant, which does its name proud – touching the sky looks more feasible from here! The views over the lake, the old town and the Alps are breathtaking, as are their prices. On the ground floor, Hotel Rivington & Sons takes us back to the 1920s underground in New York, when the sale of alcohol was banned under the Prohibition and bars were camouflaged under the hood of shops and hotels. Treat yourself to a cocktail at any hour – the selection is enormous.
Schiffbau and Puls 5 – Avant-garde and Tradition
Not far from here stand the shipyards of Schiffbau, where vessels were once built to order from around the world. They now host the most avant-garde events in the famous Schauspielhaus Theatre, and the best jazz concerts in the city at Moods, while the glamorous La Salle offers French and Italian cuisine in an outdoor area surrounded by glass walls. Drinks are served in the popular Nietturm Bar, a stunning glass cube crowning the building, with spectacular panoramic views.
One street down, night owls are gearing up for night action.Exilfeatures a programme of alternative parties and concerts, ranging from rock to hip hop, while Blok Clubis dedicated to international electronic music.
A stone’s throw away lies Les Halles, a delightful bistro with Parisian flourishes. Housed in an old warehouse, this popular meeting point is raucous and unkempt, with second-hand artefacts and vintage publicity posters. You can purchase one of the host of bicycles scattered about the interior while ordering their speciality –moules-frites (mussels with French fries).
Modernity and tradition intermingle in the former steel foundry, the site of the Puls 5 complex, a colossal, 5000 m2 construction where the huge, erstwhile production floor is encircled by restaurants, shops, offices, a fitness club and flats. Enhanced by such features as steel girders, bare piping and a large industrial crane, this space hosts events of all kinds and embodies the alliances between past and future, as well as the merger between different uses that coexist in one place. If you happen to come here, be sure to try the Restaurant Gnüsserei, surmounted in the centre by the centennial steelworks dome.
Löwenbräu – Voguish Contemporary Art
Contemporary art has moved to Kreis 5 and set up shop in the former Löwenbräu brewery. Its red brick walls now enclose the Löwenbräukunst, a complex dedicated to cutting-edge art. Here, emerging artists from all over the world showcase their work in the Kunsthalle Zürich and Migros Museum of Contemporary Art. The building is also the site of several international art galleries, notably the acclaimed Hauser & Wirth, and of Zurich’s leading art bookshop,Kunstgriff,where you should make a point of browsing their extensive book list.
And here, with the colossal Swissmill as our guiding landmark, a concrete behemoth inaugurated in 2016 used to store grain, and the second tallest tower in the city, we wind up our tour. We have arrived at the river Limmat– time to have a dip!
Be sure to discover this alternative Zurich – you have daily Vuelings here!
Text by Núria Gurina i Puig for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Zürich Tourism/Elisabeth Real and Núria Gurina
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Nine Museums To Enthuse Over In Venice
We love Venice. It is one of the most exciting destinations in Europe. Its eventful history, canals, immortal alleyways and artistic grandeur make this the city where any art lover is likely to fall head over heels. And, no wonder – in addition to the hundreds of churches here, one of the world’s most important networks of museums span the lagoon. Museums which, to cap it all, are not accommodated in conventional spaces. Instead, they practically invade Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings and feature collections which now, well into the 21st century, are capable of giving you hiccups.
With access by gondola, vaporetto or on foot, these are the nine museums you simply cannot pass up the next time you go to Venice. Cominciamo!
1. Accademia – the Largest Collection of Venetian Art
The Gallerie dell’Accademia is housed in three former religious buildings and makes up the leading collection of Venetian art in the world. The exhibition covers five centuries of art, from the Middle Ages to the Rococo, boasting such essential works as Feast in the House of Levi, by Paolo Veronese, Titian’s Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple, Vittore Carpaccio's Saint Ursula Cycle, Finding of the Body of St Mark, by Tintoretto and Andrea Mantenga’s St George, in addition to early works by Lotto, the Bellini family and Tiepolo.
2. The Doge’s Palace – the Splendour ofLa Serenissima
While not a museum in the strict sense, the Doge’s Palace provides an essential visit for anyone seeking to grasp the splendour of the Venetian Republic. The seat of government, Palace of Justice and the Doge’s residence, this huge Gothic complex is the ideal place for delighting in some of the city’s foremost artworks, on the spot where they were conceived. Noteworthy, for instance, is the large-format Paradise, painted by Domenico and Jacopo Tintoretto, which presides over the Grand Council Hall. Another must-see are the canvases by Paolo Veronese in the Chamber of the Council of Ten and the luxurious Golden Staircase, built by Sansovino and decorated by Alessandro Vittoria.
3. Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Home of the Great Patroness of the Arts
Entering this unfinished 18th-century palace means venturing into the universe of the celebrated patroness, Peggy Guggenheim. Promoter of such artists as Klee, Pollock, Calder, Kandinsky, Ernst, Picasso, Moore and Braque, Guggenheim acquired this palace on the Grand Canal in 1949 and turned it into her residence. The collection is made up of 200 canvases and sculptures by renowned artists, including Dalí, Magritte, Chirico, Balla, Duchamp, Rothko, Picabia, Delauney, Malevich and Mondrian. Peggy Guggenheim bequeathed the collection to the foundation of her uncle, Solomon R. Guggenheim, on condition that it remained in the city.
4. Scuola Grande di San Rocco – the Finest Tintoretto
A must-see landmark, this former charity hospital built as a tribute to St Roch is one of the best places to see the work of Tintoretto. Completed in 1549, in 1564 Jacopo Tintoretto was commissioned to decorate the ceiling and walls of the Scuola. The standout monumental work in the complex is his Crucifixion, located in the Sala dell’Albergo, in which the artist achieved levels of sentiment never before seen in Venetian art.
5. Museo Correr – History of the Republic
Located in St Mark’s Square, this is one of the city’s leading museums. Based around the endowment which the abbot, Teodoro Correr, bequeathed to the city of Venice, it is the best place to learn the history of the Republic of Venice and the Italian Risorgimento movement. It also boasts a large collection of Venetian painting, particularly the work of Vittore Carpaccio.
Admission to the museum also gives visitors access to the Archaeological Museum and the Libreria Sansoviniana, designed by Jacopo Sansovino, of which Andrea Palladio said it was “the most beautiful building since ancient times”.
6. Museo Fortuny – a Spaniard in Venice
The late-Gothic-style Palazzo Pesaro was the residence of the famous Spanish textile designer, Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, who acquired the building at the turn of the 20th century and lived there until his death. Both the building and its contents were bequeathed to the city by the artist’s widow in 1956. The elegant rooms provide the perfect backdrop for the Renaissance-inspired fabrics embroidered in gold and silver thread, and for the canvases, retables and Fortuny’s pleated silk dresses from the 1920s. A delightful visit.
7. Ca’ Pesaro – 20th Century Art Collection
This opulent Baroque palace houses the International Gallery of Modern Art. Founded in 1897, hanging on its walls are some of the most famous paintings by Gustav Klimt and Marc Chagall, in addition to works by Matisse, Miró, Klee and Kandinsky. Many of them were presented by these artists at the Biennial and acquired by the city. Be sure to visit the Museum of Oriental Art, on the third floor, as it features veritable jewels acquired by the Count of Bardi on his travels in the Far East in the 19th century.
8. Ca’ d’Oro – the Jewel of the Grand Canal
Works by Andrea Mantegna, Luca Signorelli, Vittore Carpaccio and Titian, as well as fabrics, frescoes and sculptures, come together in one of the most valuable displays on the Grand Canal. The museum, which since 1984 has housed the Franchetti Gallery, is located in a 15th-century palace regarded as the finest and most famous example of Venetian Gothic architecture. After undergoing alterations at various times in its history, the 1970s saw the restoration of the original splendour of its facade, one of the most beautiful in the city.
9. Ca’ Rezzonico – A Walk Through 18th-century Venice
This Baroque palace is one of the most priceless in Venice and one of the few palaces open to the public on the Grand Canal. Once famous for its sumptuous banquets, lavish parties and opulent decoration provided by the Rezzonico family, since 1934 it houses the Museo del Settecento, a collection of canvases, frescoes and artefacts which reflect 18th-century Venice. Be sure to visit the spectacular, restored ballroom designed by Giorgio Massari, featuring furniture by Andrea Brustolon, as well as a stunning gilt candelabra. Additionally, the ceilings in three rooms boast paintings by Giambattista Tiepolo.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau, QMeuh, Didier Descouens, Basilio Speziari, saragoldsmith, Michele Rienzo
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