The beauty and Magic of Lisbon
Por Tensi Sánchez de Actitudes Magazine
Lisbon is without doubt one of the most beautiful and magical cities in Europe. As soon as you arrive, you feel immersed in a world of new sensations that only Lisbon can offer. Historic Lisbon stands in perfect harmony alongside the more modern features of this vanguard city, where its wide range of leisure activities and cultural options have made it a highly fashionable destination. Each area of the city offers a vast array of attractions to make sure you’ll always have plenty to do and the streets are teeming with ambience both day and night.
Lisbon’s winding and sometimes steep streets can make it difficult to get around the city, but the public transport services and even taxis are not expensive.
Here are some useful travel tips that don’t appear in many guidebooks.
Port – Santa Apolonia area
This is a fairly new part of the city that has attracted many new restaurants and shops to set up in old port warehouses, creating some unique and spectacular spaces. Be sure to visit the excellent delicatessens or have breakfast at Gourmet Deli Deluxe, try the international dishes at Bica do Sapato restaurant and the vintage furniture shop known as Loja da Talaia.
This area also boasts some fabulous nightspots, including the famous LUX discotheque, but if you’re not on the “guest list” or you know someone who can get you in, the queues outside are horrendous, though it’s well worth the hassle.
Bairro Alto – Principe Real area
Barrio Alto is home to the Principe Real area, an old residential district next to the Botanical Gardens and where you’ll find many of the city’s most modern shops and restaurants, including trend-setting concept stores Espacio B, 21 pr Concept Store, Real and Fabrico Infinito.
If you love fashion, be sure to visit such shops as Nuno Gama, Alexandra Moura, Kolovrat, Ricardo Preto and Nuno Baltazar. These top designers all attend Moda Lisboa, Portugal’s most important biannual fashion show that is becoming increasingly famous the world over.
Next on our route is Poison d’amour, a cake shop that is sure to make your mouth water, boasting a wonderful terrace where you can enjoy a moment of pure magic. The terrace of the Lost In café-bar, which has an Indian-style decor, offers breathtaking views over the city. For some authentic Portuguese home-cooking, we highly recommend Tasca Do Urso at 32 Rua Do Monte Olivete. And last but not least, theFacto Royale hair salon with its exquisite decor and reputation as one of the finest in the city.
Baixa and Chiado area.
A great way to spend the afternoon is to stroll through the streets of Baixa and Chiado, taking in the most authentic side of Lisbon, its houses, cafés, streets… this is home to a shop called Pelcor, famous throughout Portugal for its cork fashion accessories and incredible handbags. Along Rua Nova do Carvalho you’ll find a bar called Sol y Pesca where you can enjoy a glass of fine wine, then go for a cocktail in the pub known as Pensao Amor, a former brothel that has managed to preserve much of its original decor and boasting a replica of the Sistine Chapel ceiling. Don’t miss even the smallest detail!
Close by is the restaurant La Velha Senhora offering superb local cuisine at affordable prices.
Alcántara area
Another of Lisbon’s lesser known gems, this area is home to some of the city’s coolest shops, cafés and restaurants, alongside the trendiest advertising agencies and photographic studios.
It’s like a small city in itself, a dream factory where everything is ad hoc and created for LX Factory.
Sunday is the perfect time to visit this area and check out the LX Market where you can find fabulous porcelain, books, clothes, live music, etc.…All the shops and businesses have managed to preserve the essence and decor of the industrial spaces they once were. There are over one hundred unique premises, such as the stunning Achimpa bookshop, La Cantina restaurant and even a press kiosk inside a container called Mag. All this and so much more is available in LX Factory.
Olivais area
Another fascinating area to see is the so-called new Lisbon which arose from the EXPO 1998 World Exhibition. If you like architecture, you’ll love the Portuguese Pavilion by Álvaro Siza, winner of the Pritzker prize, along with many others. The area is fully inhabited and all the pavilions have been reused. A fine example of urban renewal that other European cities would do well to copy.
The Expo area gives shape to the Olivais district, which is linked to the city via underground, Vasco da Gama Bridge (the longest in Europe), and the intermodal station designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Must-do
*Try the best sweet in the city (and it’s not the famous Bethlehem Cake) at the cake shop called Pastelería do restelo “Careca” on Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira. The delicious Palmees do Careca!
*Admire the work of a possible future Pritzer prize winner, Charles Correa, the Champalimaud Foundation building and have lunch in the incredible Darwin restaurant on Avenida de Brasilia.
*Choose a good hotel such as Eurostars Das Letras offering first-class service to make your stay even more enjoyable.
*Visit the MUDE museum of fashion and design, a building dating to the 1950s and former headquarters of Banco Nacional Ultramarino. Its original use can still be appreciated thanks to the decadent industrial ambience that makes it all the more fascinating.
By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine
Photos by Rubén Seco
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more infoCardiff For Newbies
Cardiff is hosting the 2017 UEFA Champions League final on 3 June. Although the city is overshadowed by the likes of Britain’s most popular destinations, namely London, Manchester and Liverpool, Cardiff, an ancient Roman fortification, is currently experiencing a moment of splendour. Indeed, it has a plethora of allurements to warrant you visiting the city, whether or not your team is due to file onto the pitch at the Millennium Stadium. In the following we reveal the most iconic spots in the Welsh capital.
Cardiff Bay
This is one of the city’s nerve centres and the economic driving force behind its development in the early 20th century. However, when the coal trade slipped into decline, the Cardiff docks turned into a derelict, forsaken precinct. In the 1990s, the Cardiff Council decided to revive Cardiff Bay, converting it into an area open to the public. It is now the favourite haunts of many a Cardiffian and is one of the most attractive areas in the city, boasting some of the best leisure and gastronomic amenities.
Llandaff Cathedral
One of the most emblematic examples of religious architecture in Wales. Built in the 13th century, Llandaff Cathedral is a huge, mesmerising Gothic construction, although some corners reveal vestiges of the Norman and later periods, notably the stunning “Christ” modelled by the American sculptor, Jacob Epstein, which hangs in the central nave. For those interested in paranormal phenomena, Llandaff Cathedral has spawned all manner of ghost stories, to the extent that they now run a “Ghost Tour” on which visitors are shown the spots where ghost sightings have taken place. Interestingly, not far from the Cathedral lies Llandaff Cathedral School, where Roald Dahl studied.
Cardiff Castle
Cardiff Castle is a must-visit spot for all newcomers to the city, just as the Colosseum is in Rome, the Acropolis in Athens and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Built on the site of a former Roman fortification, its origins go back to the 11th century. Although much of the original structure is still intact, in the 19th century the Marquess of Bute commissioned the architect, William Burges, to undertake extensive remodelling works, based on the Victorian and Neogothic precepts in vogue at the time, which turned the castle into one of the most opulent contemporary constructions.
Cardiff City Hall
Flanked by Cardiff Crown Court and the National Museum of Cardiff stands Cardiff City Hall, one of the most stunningly beautiful buildings in the city. Built in the early 20th century, even its exterior features extraordinary architectural beauty in the purity of its white limestone facings. However, don’t let its formidable appearance stop you from going inside. You can double check in reception, but usually you can visit all the rooms you find open. If you’re in luck, you will be treated to such sights as the Marble Hall with its collection of sculptures of illustrious figures from Welsh history, the Assembly Room and the Council Chamber.
National Museum of Cardiff
Next door to the Cardiff City Hall is the National Museum of Cardiff, the most important museum in the city. Like the neighbouring Cardiff Crown Court and Cardiff City Hall, this is a stunning Edwardian building on which construction began in 1912. Building work was interrupted by the outbreak of World War I and could not be completed until 1927. Admission is free (like virtually all British museums) and the interior houses a variety of exhibitions, ranging from different natural science disciplines to art – the highlight is their collection of Impressionist paintings, featuring such geniuses as Van Gogh, Monet and Cézanne.
Wales Millennium Centre
At the entrance to Cardiff Bay you will come across the Wales Millennium Centre, home to the Welsh National Opera. Opened in 1912, this modern building presents elements in slate, metal, wood and glass, all sourced in Wales. Inscribed above the main entrance are two poetic lines, written by Welsh poet Gwyneth Lewis. The first, in Welsh, reads “Creating Truth Like Glass From Inspiration's Furnace” and the second, in English, reads “In These Stones Horizons Sing”. Housed in the interior is the Donald Gordon Theatre, with a seating capacity of 1,900, and two adjoining rooms, which host opera recitals and extravaganzas, symphonic orchestras, ballet, theatre and contemporary music throughout the year.
Techniquest
Techniquest is the largest museum of science, technology and knowledge in the United Kingdom. Located on Stuart Street, a stone’s throw from Cardiff Bay, it stands out for its characteristic glass and steel structure. Striking a balance between education and entertainment, Techniquest is home to permanent and temporary exhibitions, as well as a theatre which hosts various science-oriented events, a planetarium and a centre of knowledge and technology dedicated to educating visitors in scientific principles through playful experiments.
Y Mochyn Du
After so much sightseeing, you will need to replenish your energy at some stage. And, where better to do so than in a typical Welsh pub? None comes more highly recommended than Y Muchyn Du (Black Pig, in Welsh). It lies some 20 minutes from the city centre, right at the entrance to Sophia Gardens and alongside the city’s main cricket stadium. However, once you get there, you will realise your journey has been worth it – walls plastered in rugby memorabilia, a Welsh-speaking clientele, traditional Welsh cuisine and a good assortment of local beers. In short, one of those venues that breathes authenticity.
The Backdrop for the Final
Football will be king on 3 June, but the National Stadium of Wales, also known as the Millennium Stadium, is one of the great temples of rugby, a sport about which the Welsh are passionate. The pride of Cardiff, the stadium was built in 1999 in time for the Rugby World Cup, and was the venue for the opening ceremony, the first and the last game, when Australia took the honours. With a seating capacity of 74,500, it is one of the world’s largest stadiums with a retractable roof, as well as one of the most striking and architecturally elegant anywhere on earth. Home to the Welsh rugby and football national teams, it is here that the new champion of European football clubs will be crowned.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez
Images by John Greenaway, David Ip, Michel Curi, John Mason, Jon Candy
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Catalonia in 7 Coastal Routes
In the following we reveal seven routes in which culture, gastronomy, enotourism, sport and adventure come together to transform your visit to the Catalonian seaboard into an unforgettable experience.
Route 1 - From Sant Carles de la Ràpita to L’Ametlla de Mar (98 km)
Our point of departure is tinged with the marine flavour of oysters and mussels, which you can taste at La Caseta del Parrillo farm, part of the Ruta de las Bateas (Route of the Rafts), which involves a boat ride across the Alfacs bay in Sant Carles de la Ràpita. At Amposta, be sure to sign up for a tour of the Ebro Delta Nature Park with MónNatura Delta del Ebro. You can visit their interpretation centre, the salt marshes, the hides for observing estuary birdlife, as well as ride in the traditional punts. The finishing touch is supplied in L’Ametlla de Mar by the team at Tuna Tour, who will take you diving among red tuna, which you will also be able to taste at the end of the excursion.
Route 2 – From Tarragona to Gratallops (73 km)
Tarragona is the first stop on this second route, which includes a tour of the city guided by Icono Serveis, while Tarragona Experience goes a step further by taking you into their Roman kitchen workshop, Domus Apicius. After this heady dose of culture, it’s time to head for the Port Aventura amusement park, where thrills and excitement are guaranteed. How about a day’s fishing in a genuine fishing boat? The experience is yours at Pesca Turismo Cambrils, so make sure you don’t miss out on it! A stopover at Reus is the perfect excuse for visiting the Gaudí Centre, where you can follow the first few steps of one of the most outstanding and unique architects in this land. The itinerary ends in the Priorat region and their magnificent DO wine, which you can taste in such wineries as Clos de l’Obac, located in Gratallops.
Route 3 – From the Prades Mountains to Vilanova i la Geltrú (112 km)
Awaiting you in the Prades Mountains are villages like Farena, Alcover and Capafonts. You can also join some of the activities offered by Brogit Guiatges, including dramatised excursions, homemade cheese and honey tastings or walking with a shepherd. When you feel like a break, we recommend heading for one of the three monumental complexes making up the so-called “Ruta del Cister” (Cistercian Route), notably the Monastery of Poblet, where you can also stay the night. Wine lovers can take the opportunity to visit Pacs del Penedès and indulge in an enotouristic experience at the Torres Winery. We wind up this third itinerary at the town of Vilanova i la Geltrú, where you can observe a splendid sunset from a yacht. What more could you ask for?
Route 4 - From Sitges to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (74 km)
In such an inspiring place as Sitges, one good option is to rely on AGIS to take you on a stroll through artists’ workshops. And, if you’re hankering for something racy, why not drop in on Casa Bacardí and learn how to make cocktails? The town of Santa Coloma de Cervelló is a must for devotees of Gaudian architecture, as there you can visit the Güell Colony and Gaudí’s Crypt. And, needless to say, this trip also includes a jaunt through the Penedès DO region where you can stop off at an organic wine cellar like Albet i Noya, or proceed to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, home to the main cava wineries such as Codorníu.
Route 5 - From Montserrat to Caldes de Montbui (61 km)
One site you simply cannot afford to miss is Montserrat, a major symbol of Catalonia. There you can visit the monastery and the art museum, as well as hike through the amazing nature park. After this immersion in raw nature, you could head for Terrassa, which boasts a number of first-rate museums, notably the Museu de la Ciència i de la Tècnica de Catalunya, (Science and Technology Museum of Catalonia) Museu Tèxtil (Textile Museum) and Parc Audiovisual de Catalunya (Audiovisual Park of Catalonia). This itinerary winds down in “relaxation mode” at the Termes Victòria spa hotel, or the Broquetas Spa, both located in Caldes de Montbui.
Route 6 - From Montmeló to Palamós (155 km)
Are you a speed freak? Then the Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya, located in Montmeló, is the place for you, where you can get to drive your dream car. And, if you have any energy to spare for more excitement, at Globus Voltor, in the town of Cardedeu, you can sign up for a hot-air balloon ride, or visit the Can Vila horse-riding school in Sant Esteve de Palautordera and explore the Montseny Nature Park on horseback. This route comes to a close in Sant Feliu de Guíxols, where a walk along the coastal footpath comes highly recommended, and Palamós, where you can take part in a seafood cookery workshop in the Espacio del Pescado.
Route 7 - From L’Estartit to Girona (149 km)
Our final route starts with a diving excursion led by the Aquàtica crew in the waters around the Medes Isles off the coast of L’Estartit, while the wetlands of the Empordà region are ideal for ecokayaking with the SK Kayak team. On the outskirts of the nearby village of Sant Martí d’Empúries you should make a point of visiting the Greek and Roman ruins, and a heady dose of culture awaits you in the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes – dramatised visit included – the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres, the Salvador Dalí House-Museum in Portlligat and the historic centre of Girona, which you can tour on a segway. The final flourish on this route is provided by the Empordà DO wines – you are urged to visit Empordàlia, located in the town of Vilajuïga, where you can taste wines, oil and the region’s typical dishes.
Text by the Agencia Catalana de Turismo
more infoThe 10 Linchpins of Tenerife
We were blown away by the island of Tenerife, which has countless charming spots. Among other things, it boasts a stunning volcano, magical laurel forests, buildings revealing impossible architectural feats and the dizzy heights of cliffs plummeting into the sea. These are the essential spots in Tenerife, the things you simply cannot pass up and which make up the very essence of the island. Here, then, is a selection of Tenerife’s top ten. Do you know any of them?
1. Teide National Park
This is undoubtedly the island’s most iconic landmark. The Teide National Park was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2007 in the category of Natural Properties. It was also awarded the European Diploma by the Council of Europe and is part of the Natura 2000 Network. Indeed, there is no dearth of reasons for earning such accolades. First, Tenerife boasts the most comprehensive supra-Mediterranean vegetation on earth. It also features one of the most stunning volcanic landscapes in the world and, of course, the most prominent one in the Canary Islands. Further information here.
2. Historic Quarters
Tenerife boasts a large number of historic sites. First, there is La Laguna Historic Quarter (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999), a unique example of an unwalled colonial settlement. The original, 15th-century layout – as pinpointed by the engineer, Leonardo Torriani, on his map of La Laguna – has survived virtually intact. This is a must-visit town as it served as the blueprint for colonial cities in the Americas, notably Old Havana, Lima and Cartagena de Indias, characterised by the same aesthetic in their streets and houses. Other must-visit venues include the Arona Historic Quarter, the Buenavista del Norte Historic Quarter, and the historic quarters of Garachico, Guía de Isora, Güímar, Icod de los Vinos, La Orotova, Los Realejos, Los Silos, Puerto de la Cruz and San Juan de la Rambla. Further details here.
3. Anaga Rural Park
Just a few minutes’ drive from the capital (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) lies the Anaga Rural Park, listed as a Biosphere Reserve, with its exceptionally well preserved natural assets. You would not be the first visitor to be awed by its beautiful, rugged range of sharp peaks. And, its deep valleys and gorges run down to the sea and fan out in the form of numerous beaches where you can have a refreshing swim. The area is also rich in indigenous fauna and flora.
4. Whale Spotting
The island’s south-west coast is ideal for whale spotting. There, you will see the whales drifting calmly along in the ocean. Whale encounters are an exciting experience and you will get the chance to photograph them close-up. Tenerife has several companies that organise excursions to see these cetaceans in the wild but, be warned – you should look out for pleasure boats with the “Barco Azul” (Blue Boat) ensign, as they are the only ones authorised by the Canary Island government to run these outings. You should heed this warning for safety purposes – both for your own safety and that of the whales – as these vessels are certified as complying with the standards designed to safeguard these species. The boats sail from the ports of Los Cristianos, Puerto Colón and Los Gigantes and you can choose from an array of prices and travel times to best suit your needs. Further information here.
5. Parque del Drago
Located next to the San Marcos parish church, the parque del Drago (Dragon Park) is the main attraction in Icod de Los Vinos. Its famous Drago Milenario (millennial dragon tree), although officially only 800 years old, is one of the leading natural, cultural and historic symbols of the Canary Islands. The Icod dragon tree (Dracaena draco canariensis),considered to be the oldest in the archipelago, is 16 metres high and has a circumference of 20 metres at its base. A garden of indigenous species has been created around the tree. Particularly edifying and illustrative for visitors, the garden also features smaller dragon trees, cactus spurge and sweet spurge, etc. The nearby church square also has some interesting botanical specimens.
6. Teno Rural Park
The Teno Rural Park is located at the north-western tip of Tenerife and stretches across parts of the Buenavista del Norte, Los Silos, El Tanque and Santiago del Teide municipalities. With a surface area of 8,063.3 hectares, it is one of the island’s most beautiful nature parks. Its ecological, cultural and landscape value has been preserved largely on account of its remoteness. The scenic variety is striking, ranging from stunning cliffs to valleys, low islands, laurel forests and magnificent examples of traditional architecture.
7. Huge Cliffs
This cliff, aptly named Los Gigantes (the Giants), is situated in Santiago del Teide and is part of the Teno Rural Park. At some points it towers 600 metres above the sea and the cliff-face is sheer, capable of making you giddy if you look at it from the bottom. The seabed at the foot of the cliff, some 30 metres deep, is home to a great variety of natural species, attracting enthusiasts of diving and deep-sea fishing.
8. Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria
At the end of the 14th century – that is, about a hundred years before the conquest of Tenerife – a Gothic carving of Our Lady of Candelaria turned up on the coast of the Güímar Valley. The local Guanche people worshipped the statue under the name Chaxiraxi. Designed by Enrique Marrero Regalado, the basilica was built in 1959 on the initiative of the Bishop of Tenerife, Domingo Pérez Cáceres, a native of Güímar. Regionalist in style, it has three naves, a faux Mudéjar ceiling and a 25-metre-high dome surmounting the transept.
9. Star-Gazing
The Teide National Park is ideal for observing such amazing features of the night-sky as the rings of Saturn, the Moon’s craters and distant galaxies and nebulae. Teide and Cumbres de Teide were recently awarded Starlight certificates, which endorses them as privileged international spots for star-gazing.
Set at 2,400 metres above sea level, the telescopes of the Teide Observatory are managed by the Instituto de Astrofísica de Canarias, which bears out the excellent state of night-sky observation on the island. Enthusiasts can book a guided tour in which the innards of those huge devices are described in detail, as are the telescope-observation methods used by scientists the world over. Further details here.
10. Gastronomy and Wine
Island cuisine is another of Tenerife’s identity traits and, of course, the tastiest one. Dishes are based on locally sourced products and make up a cuisine in which tradition blends with the avant-garde. Papas, mojos, gofio, cheese, fish, honey…
Tenerife wines are unique for their original flavour and the sacrifice involved in their making, as the vineyards are often cultivated in remote, narrow stretches of land. These conditions, together with nutrient-rich volcanic soils, endow their wines with features which have been lauded in Europe since the 16th century. There are five DOs in Tenerife – Tacoronte-Acentejo, Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Valle de la Orotava, Valle de Güímar and Abona. Each of these areas yields wines with a personality of their own, be they red, white or Malvasia. Further details here.
Itching to discover Tenerife through its greatest hits? Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Turismo de Tenerife
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