See In the Summer at Santiago de Compostela
In a few days’ time we will usher in the summer solstice and the shortest night in the year, an auspicious moment marked by a number of rituals. A host of countries in Europe pay tribute to the change of season, not to mention the excitement associated with the long-awaited summer holidays. Fire is usually the main ingredient in most of these celebrations, whether in the guise of bonfires to burn the old spirits of the year we are leaving behind, or firework displays that light up and colour the sky as everyone waits for dawn on the longest day of the year.
Santiago de Compostela is one of a plethora of locations in Europe where the night of St John is celebrated. In keeping with the tradition that stretches across all Galicia, the city’s streets and public squares are lit up with bonfires in the course of what is undoubtedly the most magical night in the year. On this night alone, the bonfires are known here as cacharelas. The people of Santiago de Compostela leap over them, a deed believed to ward off witchcraft and the evil eye cast by meigas, the name by which evil spirits are known in Galicia. Be sure to join in this magic ritual to see in the summer on the right foot. The city’s historic centre has the most crowded bonfires, particularly in the Plaza de Irmán Gómez and the streets of Algalia de Abaixo and Valle Inclán, although you will also find bonfires blazing in the Pelamios quarter, San Juan Park in Vista Alegre and the district of San Lorenzo.
Alongside the bonfires, centre stage also features sardines, the streets of Santiago redolent with their aroma. The sardines are grilled over the bonfires and eaten together with the traditional Galician empanadas (a sandwich pie) and red wine – a great culinary combination for a night out that is bound to extend well into the morning.
Another purification ritual which Santiagans take very seriously is to leave overnight in water a sprig of magical plants and herbs, including rosemary, mint, camomile and rose, and wash themselves with that infusion the following morning. Anything goes when it comes to warding off the evil spirits, so don’t hesitate to get your spray of herbs at the Mercado de Abastos and join in the tradition.
And, There’s More
Coinciding with the festivity of St John and for the second year running, a festival organised by Turismo Santiago will be held from 22 to 24 June at which you can delve more deeply into Galician rituals and traditions associated with the arrival of summer. Among the scheduled activities are itineraries for picking the herbs for St John, a free train which runs from one bonfire to another, wickerwork exhibitions, traditional dance workshops, storytelling sessions of myths and legends about meigas and magic spells, music and the conjuro de la queimada (a ritual consisting of an incantation accompanied by mulling and drinking a pomace brandy called orujo). There will also be a market where you can taste locally sourced traditional products in season.
Text by Turismo Santiago de Compostela
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The Rebellious Heart of Berlin
Some journeys take you to unknown places, some envelop you in peace and tranquillity while others are designed to help tap your inner creativity. Without a doubt, Berlin manages all three of these things. Let’s walk today through the melting pot of the city’s most rebellious heart, where new artistic spaces open every year, where music, art and design coexist with parks, restaurants and street markets. Perhaps this is why more than 8 million tourists come here every year, only to discover it has changed slightly each time they return. Carlos Medina, from My Vueling City, guides us through the city to a musical backdrop. OnPiedra de Toque, we continue to seek the hidden side of our cities. Today, Berlin, with the Kreuzberg district, the Prenzlauer Berg district and the B-Parade.
The strong>Krezberg district: 160,000 inhabitants of 200 different nationalities, Turkish being the majority. “After the wall came down, Berlin united the two Germanies – the east occupied by the Russians and the west occupied by the Americans, French and English. The Kreuzberg district lies in the east, boasting a great night life and a spectacular Turkish market. Simply consider that Berlin is the European capital with the most Turks and that most of those live in the Kreuzberg district. However, there is another area that, given the low rent prices, is also full of all sorts of creative people. A visit to the Prenzlauer Berg district is highly recommendable. Here you will find cafés and restaurants of all nationalities with an excellent offer at more than reasonable prices. Top spots for Carlos Medina: Il pane e le rose, Mami Camilla, A Cabana.
Volkspark Friedrichshain has been the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city for more than 160 years. It is the oldest public park in Berlin. Mauerpark and its street market is the other essential location for discovering the hidden side of the German capital. Finally, if it’s the various shopping areas that turn you on, then Castangalle is the place for you.
B-Parade, 21 July. To conclude our visit to Berlin, we will mention the old Love Parade that began in 1989 before the fall of the Berlin Wall and that lives on today under a new name: B Parade. This popular street festival gathers a large number of DJs and performances to create the biggest party in Europe. This year, it will be held on 21 July.
Picture by David Herrmann
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Barcelona on five senses
By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst
Barcelona has given me almost four years of experience. Experience that came along with a dream, and how not to love a place you once dreamt of and next thing you are standing right there?
I have had the chance the embrace this place, to have it all for myself and to sense it from head to bottom, from mountain to coast line, from iconic places to hidden undiscovered corners.
So please let me take you into these gothic old streets, into the most perfectly built neighborhood and into some greatest spots in history, in art, in culture, in food-n-drinks tasting. Let me get you inspired into sensing this unique city we all have heard about: Barcelona!
See
Definitely a great quantity of things to see in this city, but you all know where to find the usual stuff, right? So let’s not stop here and let’s keep moving forward to what you won’t find on a common travel guide.
Montjuic Magic Fountain: the best and most beautiful free water fountains we have seen in our travels, these fountains in Barcelona are not to be missed. With a winter schedule (Friday-Saturday 7-9pm) and a summer schedule (Thursday-Sunday 9-11:30 pm) you will have an endless opportunity to enjoy this show. Music, colors and water become alive all together in a beautiful set of artistic display.
View of Barcelona from down under the W Hotel. Right on the corner of Barceloneta Beach, you will find a surprising spot, not as touristy as one might think, with plenty of coffee places in order to enjoy the afternoon, winter or summer. Even a mojito if you please on a new “chiringuito” or beach bar for quite a low budget. Feel free to walk, rent a bike, roller skates, or even take the bus. Just make sure you don’t miss this secret spot. One city view you won’t get from anywhere else in town!
Castellers: traditional and local human towers! You read that right. Declared as a Human Heritage, this local activity has it all for your sight: from amazement to stressful balancing moments. Every neighborhood and every town has its own group of castellers. They don’t perform daily or weekly, but you can definitely search or ask for the next presentation closest to you. And it is always a free attraction, so write this down as I write and you read.
Smell
Unfortunately, salty-sea smell is not an option here. Despite being such a salty sea, the Mediterranean Sea has not a great or strong sea-like aroma. But it doesn’t really matter when you have such a city right on its side.
Barcelona has appeared to my nose as a fantastic lab many times, even for all senses. But I have found out it is mostly about the scents on the street. Like what? Well, bakery and chocolate shops. Not to leave fresh fruit markets aside of course. But to me, bakeries, pastry shops and bread shops are the winners to my scent-album! So many of them throughout town and all of them so worth even a little taste, not only a deep smell.
Besides, it’s quite cheap! So don’t hesitate on trying any good “patisserie” whenever in town (even better if hidden from main touristy streets or areas). Sit down peacefully or why not, take away to that little corner at the beach. It will all be worthwhile and you will enjoy the moment forever.
Also, do not doubt indulging your nose with some fresh market scents. It is all about juicy fruits, jumping next to the fish section with quite a different smell. Then hitting the isle down to the sausages and meat stands, just to finally and happily end up at the chocolates stand. Open your lungs, close your eyes, grab your purse and take a long deep breath right there. Your soul will regain energy afterwards.
Listen
Traditional castellers’ music: a small band particularly known as “cobla” are the ones in charge of playing some air instruments with one unique kind of sound, as part of their human towers ritual, setting the right time and rhythm of the ascending. Nothing like we have heard before. It certainly gives some emotion and feeling to the whole event. Once more, castellers and their music is worth mentioning here. As a free activity, you can put two senses to good practice while enjoying this incredible performance.
Sagrada Familia’s bells during christmas time: no words needed in order to describe this one. As simple as it sounds. So if you are around during christmas time, make sure you go visit and sit somewhere around this church, preferably on the night of December 24th. Then just sit and let go into an overwhelming experience as the church become alive to the sounds of bells playing the Holy Night.
Taste
Food and flavors in Barcelona is all about one thing: Traditions. And with these, let me give you a few but tasty tips on what to taste, depending on the season you are visiting the city. Don’t worry, there is something for everyone!
Calçots: a winter onion-like dish full of fun! Get your glove and bib ready to dip these onions into the most exquisite homemade special sauce.
Fideua: a paella made with tiny noodles and served with alioli. Couldn’t get better!
Cava with lemon sorbet: happy new years! Unbelievable fresh and classy drink, easy to make and ready to welcome a new year full of adventures.
Panellets: Easter week time brings some delightful little pastries of several kinds. They are called panellets and are sold by weight. Go by a pastry shop and buy one of each, then head to the nearest park and enjoy with a nice cuppa coffee or even some more Cava. Cozy, warm and sweet flavor.
Feel
The toughest sense to discover and describe, but also the most memorable one within our sensory album of life.
Barcelona is the heart and home for Modernism, which brings a special detail to be touched. Something you will barely find in any other place in the world.
Trencadís: this is the name for the very popular technique by Antonio Gaudi, the one with lots of ceramic pieces, with tons of colors and images, even hidden messages. This technique makes a unique surface, which can be found extensively at the Parc Guell mainly, but also at many other of Gaudi’s art, such as Casa Batlló and La Pedrera.
San Jordi’s City Door: a magnificent historical monument at the the Crown’s Archive building right in the heart of the Gothic neighborhood. Made with bronze in 1975 by Josep Maria Subirachs, this huge door gives a great overview to the history of Catalonia, all within the Sant Jordi legend: a saint who defeated a dragon in order to save an entire town and a princess. Its greatest figures and irregular surface lets people enjoy some learning while touching history itself.
After these experiences, you will certainly have some great stories to share and many memories through the senses that will make you want to come back to Barcelona.
By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst
Why not take a trip to Barcelona? Have a look at our flights here!
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A Stroll Through The Other Marseille
First, the bad news – Marseille is not Paris. Unlike its long-standing rival, France’s second largest city lacks top-drawer museums, stunning landmarks and hordes of Japanese tourists queueing up outside Louis Vuitton. The good news is that… Marseille is not Paris. Pampered by the Mediterranean, this city of radiant sunlight, with its multicultural population and suburbs in the very heart of the city, is so much of an oddity that it earned itself the nickname Planète Mars.
With one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean, a chaotic urban layout and an abiding reputation for being a decadent capital, Marseille is above all France’s enfant terrible, a noisy, dynamic city full of contrasts, where street hawkers take over the pavements, walls are smothered in graffiti, one’s clothes are impregnated with a brackish odour and the Olympique de Marseille is the mortar that binds it all together.
Apart from the usual tourist destinations, the tables have turned since it was voted European Capital of Culture in 2013. Zaha Hadid, Jean Nouvel and Norman Foster all have their state-of-the-art buildings on the snazzy waterfront esplanade. The bohemian way of life, however, is to be found inland and that is where we are heading. With a map in our pockets, we embark on our alternative, urban bobo tour of the capital of Provence!
At La Friche la Belle de Mai
An erstwhile tobacco factory at the Gare Saint-Charles is Marseille’s liveliest cultural centre. We have come to La Friche! Exhibition areas, artists’ ateliers, theatre, skating ramps and even a nursery rub shoulders here. All in one hybrid amalgam and in constant flux, focused on contemporary creation in a precinct where the communal spirit matches the extensive programme.
The huge roof terrace, which affords spectacular city views, is filled to bursting in summer, as it hosts parties with guest DJs and open-air cinema on Sundays. For the rest of the year the music never stops, while the Cabaret Aléatoire features sessions ranging from rock to hip-hop.
If you need to refuel, head for La Salle des Machines, a café-bookshop where you can have a café au lait while you leaf through a catalogue of the latest shows. But, if you’re actually feeling peckish, Les Grandes Tables is the place to go. Here, the menu changes each day, but they always have the classic steak tartare and Caesar salad. Mondays usher in a market of local produce and, as you well know, French markets are peerless.
Outside, alongside the warehouses and level with passing TGVs, the walls of a city park are daubed in graffiti proclaiming “Skateboarding is not a crime”. Here, skaters spin their tricks, while others play basketball, scale the climbing wall, play in the children’s area or work the land in the community allotment. That’s Marseille – a heterogeneous magma where everyone and everything become fused.
A few metres to the west, among the maze-like streets of La Belle de Mai, stands Le Gyptis Cinéma. Their (original version!) listings are as eclectic as the city itself, featuring thematic film cycles, classics, titles you won’t find on the Internet and children’s movies. The facade is peopled with portraits of neighbourhood characters, the upshot of a communal street-art programme designed to put a face to the locals.
And, with that image fixed in our mind’s eye, we head for Cours Julien, the hardcore urban Marsellais scene.
Around Cours Julien – Street Art & Urban Vibe
Alternative, carefree and colourful, the Cours Ju, as locals call it, is the in district right now. Take the metro to Notre Dame du Mont, although the climb up from the harbour is a heart-stopper. A district of artists, musicians and designers and the bastion of the ultra-modern bobo community (bobo, in French, is a nickname for “bourgeois-bohemian”), the Cours Ju is an endless string of trendy cafés, restaurants of all kinds, vintage stores and streets covered in full-colour graffiti.
The fact is that no other spot in the “Hexagone” can boast such a tour de force of urban art of this calibre. Streets fronts along Rue Vian, Pastoret and Bussy l’Indien are overrun by countless pamphleteering murals of a social nature, with references to pop culture or signs announcing the cafés hidden inside. Street art is clearly part of Marseille’s urban DNA, both rebellious and multicultural, as evinced in their well-known hip-hop – see this fast-paced video set to a local rap rhythm to get the idea.
Against this backdrop, every square metre of what is Marseille’s Kreuzberg is inundated with alternative art galleries, terraces, cafés and stores selling anything from apparel to household goods. The best approach is to venture carefree into the chaotic maze of pedestrian streets and let yourself get carried away by the relaxed atmosphere.
In the Cours itself, the multi-faceted concept store Oogie sells apparel and books, but also serves food and houses a hairdressing salon which hosts DJ parties. Nearby, La Licorne makes soaps using traditional methods and, in the rue Trois Frères Barthélémy, the Brasserie de la Plaine micro-brewery sells craft beer and has a bistro where you can wolf down the market-cuisine formule du jour or menu of the day, which usually consists of a starter, main course and dessert for around €10.
The trendiest spot par excellence is WAAW, on the rue Pastoret. Halfway between a bistro and a cultural centre, WAAW’s activities range from presentations to silk-screen print shops. It is also the best place to make a technical stop, order the dish of the day or stock up for the evening on a pastis or rosé when it’s time for the popular “apéro” – a pre-dinner aperitif.
Night time ushers in drinks and music. Sited in the Place Jean Jaurès, L’Intermédiaire is one of the best venues for live and DJ-set alternative music. Next door is Au Petit Nice, which offers a huge selection of beers in an inner patio where you can while away the hours. And, in La Dame Noir, hipsters queue up to get into the most sought-after club in the area.
As if that weren’t enough, a local producers’ market sets up shop in the Cours Ju every Wednesday morning. Stamp traders get their turn on Sundays, while second-hand books are sold every second Saturday in the month. The Marché de La Plaine, in the Place Jean Jaurès, is a market selling fruit and vegetables, cheese, fish, takeaway food, cheap footwear and accessories of all kinds on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, while the flower market is held on Wednesdays.
The Cours Ju has a special something which grows on you! Get going and discover cosmopolitan Marseille – book your Vueling here!
Text by Núria Gurina i Puig for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Caroline Dutrey, Coralie Filippini, JeanneMenjoulet&Cie, marcovdz, Pop H
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