Pompeii and Herculaneum
The beautiful region of Campania in southern Italy features two gems that enable us to spotlight daily life during the Roman period – Pompeii and Herculaneum. The fact that these archaeological sites are so well preserved – possibly more so than any other in Europe – on account of a natural disaster has a horrific, spine-chilling side to it. This somehow magnanimous tragedy was caused by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius on 24 August in AD 79, which buried in lava and ashes these two localities, which became frozen in time forever, or at least for many centuries. Nowadays both sites are places of pilgrimage for tourists, bystanders and scholars eager to find out more about Rome’s past.
Pompeii
Prior to forming part of the Roman Empire, Pompeii (Pompei, in Italian) was a Greek and Samnite settlement. In AD 62 it was struck by a terrible earthquake, which left part of the city in ruins. Interestingly enough, some remains from that time reveal Pompeii in the throes of reconstruction, as evinced in the Temple of Jupiter, or the plaques on some buildings featuring the names of benefactors who had helped fund the repair work. Unfortunately, their efforts were in vain, as the eruption of Vesuvius led it all to be smothered in lapilli, causing the death of the entire population and rendering Pompeii uninhabitable.
The city fell into oblivion until it was rediscovered and excavated in 1748 under Charles III of Spain, also known as Charles VII of Naples. Initially, the excavations were only intended to salvage valuable objects, which were then incorporated into the royal collection. Over time, however, the endeavours took on a more professional guise and archaeological work on the site continues even today. Stories from the past are still being unearthed, while work to preserve the ruins is ongoing.
A tour of Pompeii should be taken calmly. The itinerary usually takes about 3 to 4 hours and our first recommendation is to wear sturdy footwear and, should you visit the site in summer, to avoid the peak sunlight hours and wear sun protection. And, of course, to get the most out of your visit, it is advisable to secure a guide, who will orientate you and point out the various areas, or at least an audio guide. But, it is well worth the effort, as the itinerary is full of stories, anecdotes and a number of surprises. One such titbit is The House of the Tragic Poet, where in the vestibule you can see a mosaic with the inscription, Cave Canem (Beware of the Dog)! Or the risque frescoes in the changing rooms of the Underground Thermae, with sexually explicit scenes. Other thermae, known as the Stabian Baths, reveal a sophisticated system of heating using hot air, which circulated between the walls under the floor.
Be sure to visit the Villa dei Misteri, one of the most important buildings in the whole complex. A noteworthy feature of the interior is the stunning Dionysiac frieze, a series of frescoes depicting the rituals of initiation into the “bridal mysteries”. Another house, the House of the Vettii, one of the most luxurious in the city, boasts some excellent frescoes, some of which depict trompe l'oeil views of architecture.
Herculaneum
While Pompeii is more popular among visitors and covers a larger area, the best preserved ruins are to be found in Herculaneum (Ercolano, in Italian). This is true of the houses which in some cases are two-storeys buildings. In this instance the houses were both buried by and preserved for posterity by the pyroclastic flow of the eruption. Excavations got under way in 1738 and the finds unearthed here exerted a marked influence on Neoclassicism. Among the many that came to light in 1980 in the rooms or fornici were over 200 skeletons of people of all ages and social status huddled under archways who were burned by the heat given out by the volcano. Interestingly, they had taken refuge from the disaster with their most valuable belongings in harbour warehouses.
Herculaneum was smaller in size than Pompeii and excavations have revealed mainly houses, most of them with magnificent mosaics, as in the House of the Mosaic Atrium, the House of Neptune and Amphitrite and the House of the Skeleton. Other landmarks include the male and female bath houses which have yielded considerable details about life during those times.
National Archaeological Museum
We recommend rounding off your tour of those sites by a visit to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, which houses a large part of the objects, frescoes and mosaics excavated at both Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Treat yourself to a getaway to Naples and travel back in time to Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Pablo Cabezos, Andy Hay, Carlo Mirante, momo, Citi-zen, Aleksandr Zykov, Rachel Bickley, Amphipolis
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Paris, With Kids
1) Parc de La Villette
Open all year around, La Villette is a surefire destination for entertaining boys and girls aged 0 to 99 years! It is the largest park in France, stretching across an area of 55 hectares, and workshops, activities and shows are organised in its gardens and outhouses, come sunshine, rain or snow. It is renowned for its Cinéma en plein air (open-air cinema) in summer. Thousands of Parisians congregate there hours before the sessions to jostle for a good seat and unpack their picnic hampers. In winter, many workshops and other activities are held in the Grande Halle, an emblematic iron-and-glass building that was once France’s most important livestock market. But, to get back to what concerns us here – children – one essential destination is the Jardin des Vents et des Dunes, an admission-free playground recommended for children aged 0 to 13 years. Adults can stretch out on the chaises longues while they keep an eye on their youngsters. The Jardin des Voltiges, given over to circus, is an admission-free venue where kids can experience gravity on ropes, climb or ride a monocycle. Some interesting educational workshops and exhibitions are also organised in La Villette.
2) Cité des Sciences, Cité des Enfants and la Géode
La Villette is not exactly in the centre of Paris so, if you want to visit it, the best thing is to spend the whole day there and also see the Cité des Sciences, the Cité des Enfants and la Géode. The Cité des Sciences features some interesting educational exhibitions for the young – and not so young! – but for children the jewel in the crown is the Cité des Enfants. This huge space, taking up 5,000 square metres, hosts all kinds of activities, experiments, water games and discovery areas for learning while you play. It is divided into two parts – one for children for 2 to 7 years, and another for ages 5 to 12. To round off the day, a fitting choice would be to watch a movie or documentary on the 360° screen in the fantastic Géode.
3) Galerie de l’Évolution
The Gallery was inaugurated in 1889, shortly after the Eiffel Tower, as the Galerie de Zoologie. The formidable sight of a huge herd of elephants, giraffes, zebras or buffaloes will win over the young ones from the outset. The museum’s permanent exhibitions focus mainly on the evolution of the species, while the subjects of extinct and endangered species are also stressed. Children can discover biodiversity and environmental hazards through playful interactivity in the Galerie des Enfants. Further information here.
After such a flood of taxidermy animals, your children are likely to fancy seeing some live specimens. You need only to go outside the museum to come across the Zoo del Jardin des Plantes, a centre dedicated to the study and conservation of some 200 plant species, while for animal sightings you shouldn’t miss the Parc Zoologique de Paris, where you can have breakfast alongside the giraffes, or cut your teeth as animal handlers by feeding a manatee, a kind of giant seal weighing in at 600 kilograms.
4) Orchestre de Paris
One of France’s most prestigious orchestras offers concerts for the whole family where language is unimportant. Children and adults alike will discover music through a series of concert shows purpose designed for a public of all ages which elicit participation. You can check out their programme and times on this website.
5) Museum-wise
Most museums in Paris have materials specifically for children, including whole rooms and halls customised to their needs. The Louvre, for instance, organises workshops, family visits and story-telling sessions geared to discovering the museum as a form of entertainment. Parents can also download teaching material from their website or request it at information points. Noteworthy among the museums most highly rated by Parisians for their family facilities are the Palais de Tokyo and the Pompidou Centre, where they also organise workshops, activities and exhibitions tailored to children and adolescents.
In addition to the well-known museums, Paris has a host of others catering to all tastes. Don’t rule out visting some that will cause surprises, such as the Musée de la Poupée, Musée Gourmand du Chocolat, Musée de la Musique and the Musée Aéronautique.
So, head for Paris with your children – check out our flights here.
Text by Rita Peré / ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Cité des enfants, Francois_Grandin, Galerie de l’Évolution, Little Palais, Paris Tourist Office. Daniel Thierry, Paris Tourist Office. Amélie Dupont, Arnaud-Legrain
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Beer is unquestionably one of the Czech Republic’s star performers. There, the valued elixir is more than sacred. Czechs love beer and are actually the world’s largest consumers per capita, putting back an average of 137 litres a year. The country boasts an endless array of brands, churned out either by large breweries or small family concerns. The latest trend is to blend different flavours in order to generate a bigger selection. Here, beer is a veritable institution, and a fad which is fast catching on is to bathe in the frothy gold liquid.
Following is a rundown of the best places to enjoy pivo (“beer”, in Czech).
Prague
Our beer route through the Czech Republic starts in the capital. Prague’s most famous beer is Staropramen, made at a brewery in the Smíchov district, which is well worth the visit. The brewery, which opened in 1869, includes sections with exhibits from that historic period.
The city’s most celebrated restaurant and beergarden is U Fleků, located in the historical centre. Once inside its huge interior, we recommend you pick up the menu and order some typical Czech dishes to go with your beer.
The best Pilsner Urquell is probably to be found in the Pivnice U Hrochů (“Hippo Beergarden”) on Thunovská Street, where the brew comes with an inch of head. Some claim that to test whether a beer has been poured properly, you should place a euro coin on top. If it floats, the beer has been served correctly. Another beer centre is the restaurant U Bansethů (Táborská Street 4). Opposite is a small brewery, the Sousedský pivovar Bašta, where you can also taste the beverage. If, however, you prefer to go for the more avant-garde flavours, make sure you head to the Nota Bene bar at Mikovcova Street 4, Prague 2.
However, beer does not exist solely for consumption, as attested by the Beer spa Bernard, located near the City Hall and the Powder Tower. Here you will enjoy a unique experience consisting of a soothing, curative beer bath. Needless to say, the spa session includes knocking back a Bernard beer.
Southern Bohemia
Our next stop takes us to southern Bohemia and the pretty town of České Budějovice. There stands another of the Czech Republic’s emblematic breweries – where Budvar beer is produced – known the world over as Budweiser Budvar. On our tour of the brewery they showed how the beverage was brewed by the traditional method, and how it is done nowadays. The visit also includes a tasting session of their famous pale lager.
Near České Budějovice lies the medieval jewel of Český Krumlov and the Village Golf Hotel Svachův Dvůr (Svachova Lhotka 1, Mirkovice). The hotel complex boasts its own small brewery, the Glokner, where they produce a Czech lager that is adapted to the different seasons – in summer, it is brewed “light”, whereas in winter it turns out somewhat “heavier” and more full-bodied. And, to round off your enjoyment of this beverage, the hotel offers its guests baths in their own beer.
Western Bohemia
North-west of Český Krumlov lies the city of Plzeň (Pilsen), the cradle of Czech beer. Discover the jealously guarded secrets of this beer city in this other post at My Vueling City. An hour’s drive away is a small town called Chodová Planá, known for its beer spa, the first of its kind in the Czech Republic. The spa offers the combined curative properties of a local mineral water known as Ilsano, Chodovar beer, hops and active beer yeast. And, if you’re a beer spa enthusiast, there is also a splendid spa town called Karlovy Vary.
Central Bohemia
We made our last stop at Žatec. This region, the country’s leading hops producer, is where the universally known Pilsner Urquell is brewed. It is clearly the best area for producing lagers. Here you can also visit the Žatecký pivovar brewery.
By now you must be quite thirsty, and not exactly for water! Get going and arrange your trip to Prague – check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Czech Tourism
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Eating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I
Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.
Tinel
Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.
Skola
Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.
Proto
First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.
Kopun
A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.
Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles – an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.
Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.
It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.
Lero Hotel
When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.
After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Grastronomistas
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