Jerusalem is a fascinating place. Strolling through its Old City – the cradle of Jewish, Christian and Muslim culture – is like walking across a set in some Hollywood blockbuster directed by Cecile B. Demille. This enclave breathes history in every stone holding up its temples and other buildings although, when it comes to travels, the capital of Israel has long been classed as a religious destination. Indeed, any pilgrimage to the Holy Land should include a fascinating tour of the city’s catacombs. In the following we reveal the most interesting spots in an alternative Jerusalem, pinpointing the bars and clubs in the renovated Mahane Yehuda market.

Adraba Books

A meeting point for the city’s literary community, Adraba Books is Jerusalem’s bookstore for anyone seeking stories that go beyond official accounts. Over and above its café – worth commending in a country which does not stand out for its espressos, macchiatos and cappuccinos – it is noteworthy for its section of art volumes and its stock of titles in foreign languages, particularly English. Sderot Ben Maimon 5

Casino De Paris

Located in the heart of Mahane Yehuda – a refurbished market filled with colourful food stalls by day, many of which become bars and clubs with live music by night – stands the Casino de Paris, formerly one of the most popular clubs among British officers stationed in Jerusalem during the nineteen twenties. A century later it is now reliving its days of glory, and can count among its die-hards a large, motley crew of night revellers. The revival is largely the brainchild of Sha’anan Streett, the vocalist of Hadag Nahash, one of Israel’s most widely acclaimed hip-hop bands, and Eli Mizrahi, the owner of the nearby Machneyuda, possibly the best restaurant in the city. 3 Mahane Yehuda Street

Gatsby

Next door to a fast-food eatery, Gatsby is half-concealed behind a drab black steel gate, lacking any sign that might denote its presence. Despite its brief history (it opened just over a year ago), it is actually Jerusalem’s first cocktail lounge to re-create the ambience of an American speakeasy from the Prohibition era. It is stunning to see their barwoman wielding the cocktail shaker. As in other locales of this kind, you can only gain access if you know the secret code of the day, or else pretend to be a strayguiri– it worked with me. 18 Hillel Street

Lev Smadar

Lev Smadar opened in 1921 and is one of the most emblematic cinemas in Jerusalem. Hidden in an alleyway in the German quarter, it is honestly more difficult to find than Wally without his striped shirt. It features American, European and Israeli independent cinema and is frequented by the city’s arty crowd. All the movies are screened in their original version and local films are in Hebrew with English subtitles. 4 Lloyd George Street

Razzouk Tattoo Studio

Lost among the winding streets skirting the Jaffa Gate lies Razzouk Tattoo, the first and only tattoo parlour in Jerusalem’s Old City. Like almost everything here, the story of Razzouk Tattoo is fascinating. The Razzouks, a family of Egyptian origin, have been tattooing since the 14th century. In those times Copts would have a small cross etched on the inside of their wrist to gain entry to churches. After settling in Jerusalem, the grandfather, Yacoub Razzouk, opened his studio in the mid-20th century. The family tradition is now furthered by his grandson, Wassim Razzouk. 31 St. George Street

Uganda

This club is ideal for dropping in on the night scene on weekdays. It has been operating for the last ten years and is one of the favourite sanctuaries of DJs involved in Israel’s electronic underground. It is also a place to feed on vinyls, graphic novels and other Israeli counter-culture publicity. It is also one of the few clubs in town where you can quaff on a pint of Taybeh, a Palestinian beer which is up there with the best German or Belgian barley beverages. 4 Aristobolos Street

Videopub

This is the only openly gay bar in Jerusalem and a winner if you want to have a memorable night in the city. If you strike it lucky, you will happen upon one of their popular thematic parties from the 80s and 90s, soirées where the punchiest hits from those two decades will sound out one after the other. And, if you get too heavily involved in the revelry, don’t be surprised if you get carried off by one of the drag queens, who will lead you onto the dance floor. You’ve been warned! 1 Horkanus Street

Yellow Submarine

Open since 1991, the Yellow Submarine is Jerusalem’s most emblematic concert hall, the venue where both good – and the best – stars (albeit, unknown here) of the eminently interesting Israel music scene have performed, as well as some of the leading international figures that have visited the country. In addition to their daily bowling schedule, this booster of local talent also hosts conferences and exhibitions, as well as being hired out for rehearsals and recording sessions. 13 Ha-Rechevim Street

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Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Oriol Rodríguez, Cine Lev Smadar (© Alex Jilitsky), Uganda (© Udim), Yellow Submarine (© Uri Leshem)

In summer, this beautiful island, with pristine white towns clinging to formidable cliff faces, welcomes the European jet set who come to bathe blithely in spectacular private pools with sea views. In parallel, another sector of the population ekes out a living offering donkey tours to Japanese tourists. These are the two faces of contemporary Greece, a land which still preserves that majestic profile of a lingering past, despite things crumbling around it, which has in Santorini a jewel that has not fallen prey to the horror of mass tourism and urban development. Following is a selection of four venues located in the salient spots in this piece of paradise where you can delight in the wonderful local cuisine.

Tranquilo (Perissa)

On a trip to Santorini, sooner or later you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of Perissa, its main claim to fame being its beaches – the Red Beach and the Black Beach. Perissa puts up more modest tourists than those who stay at the fantastic boutique hotels in beautiful Oia, Fira and Imerovigli. Hence, it is a good place to spend the night, as it is full of pretty, picturesque hotels, like the charming Kouros Village where we stayed, whose breakfasts on the terrace we still fondly recall.

By night, its seaside promenade speckled with restaurants is a good place to take cover from the exorbitant prices of other spots on the island and enjoy their down-to-earth Greek cooking. One such venue is Tranquilo, a beach bar with sea views where reggae sounds out continually and their friendly dreadlocked staff follow slow-food precepts to the letter, serving up delicious 0-km organic Greek food at laughable prices. Be sure to order youvetsi (Greek pasta) or one of their bio macro-salads.

Sphinx Wine Bar (Oia)

This restaurant in Oia, which opened just a few months ago, is the perfect spot for indulging in Greek wine and cuisine with creative flourishes based mainly on fish. It does not have sea views, but it does have a magical terrace in an alleyway in that beautiful, fairy-tale village, and its success is endorsed by that of its big brother – the Sphinx Restaurant in the capital, Fira.

This secluded corner, decorated in exquisite taste and with a cellar tailored to sybarites, has a spectacular wine list, which Panagiotis, their sommelier, knows by heart and will lecture you on in depth. Their array of dishes ranges from lobster with octopus to carpaccio and the odd nod to vegan and vegetarian cooking, as well as salads as their super-foods and desserts with such suggestive names as When Mango Meets Citrus.

The Wine Bar (Imerovigli)

At the Hotel Heliotopos in Imerovigli we came across an area called The Wine Bar which we advise you to try with an open mind and palate, prepared to taste more-than-interesting Greek wines. Located in a small natural cellar, which contributes to preserving the wine and endows the experience with a touch of magic, you can taste countless marvels produced from the local grape variety known as Assyrtico. We recommend you take your glass with you onto the terrace at dusk, to witness one of the best sunsets on earth.

Koukoumavlos (Fira)

In Fira, the capital, you have to tread carefully. There, all the restaurants look wonderful, with spectacular views over the sea, but you have a good chance of ending up with an apology for a moussaka. The capital of Santorini is crammed with dubious tourist draws, like the donkey ride that took us to the ferry which leads to a volcano, or the exorbitantly priced restaurant tourist traps. You should avoid making the mistakes we did, like becoming spellbound by the views and letting yourself be cajoled by a bearded waiter, a cross between Bardem and Varoufakis. So, take our advice and go for Koukoumavlos, a superb choice. Their €68 menu is a good way of enjoying the essence of this restaurant’s offerings. They have specialised in Mediterranean cuisine for the last 30 years, have endorsements from the public and critics alike, and the spot affords fantastic views of the volcano.

Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com

In Stockholm there’s a café on nearly every counter, a total of 502 in the Swedish capital. And each one strives to offer the best coffee and food, including pastries, sandwiches, and even whole brunches and lunches. They also vie with each other to display the most original concept and décor.

In Colour - Vurma Kafé (Gastrikegatan, 2)

You wouldn’t be surprised to see Frida Kahlo, Sara Montiel or Lola Flores flouncing through the door of this cathedral of Kitsch, with its deep red and blue walls, and colourful plastic flowers in every available spot –including the waitresses’ hair–where every chair and velvet cushion is a different colour and pattern. The initial psychedelic sensation quickly subsides, and the visitor realises that there’s a lot to like in the Vurma. Much to be prized is the organic milk accompanying a hot sandwich combining the unlikeliest ingredients; but all surprisingly delicious. Our favourites are the goat cheese with apples, honey, and walnuts, and the spicy hummus.

Perfect Chaos – String (Nytorgsgatan 38)

The is a café that doubles as an antique shop`. Everything is for sale –the furniture, the table linen, glassware, lamps, and many decorative items. But it is most famous for its unspeakably delicious red fruit strudel drowned in vanilla sauce. The best place to drink your coffee, which is served in thermos jugs, is at the high table by the window where you can watch the hipsters parading through the ultramodern Söderman district. For just eight euros you can order a Sunday brunch including a hot drink, fruit juice, bread, cheese, yoghurt, a crêpe, fresh fruit, egg and even ice cream!

Milky Coffee and a Newspaper - Saturnus (Eriksbergsgatan, 6)

Local and foreign newspapers, huge, rich pastries (one cinnamon band can be shared by at least two or three people), and an exquisite café au lait served in one of Stockholm’s largest cups. It’s a cosmopolitan and cordial setting, and a great place to meet and chat with friends. The menu includes sandwiches and salads made with recipes “from everywhere”, says the owner. Noteworthy among the fare are the Cuban sandwich of cured pork loin with barbecue sauce, the Ruben pastrami, the milkshake made with fresh fruit, and the cheesecake with macadamia nuts. Average cost per person: 12 euros.

In the Market - Roberto (Östermalmstorg, 114)

No visitor to Stockholm should miss the luxurious covered Östermalms Saluhall selling local gourmet products including reindeer specialities, salmon, shellfish, cheese, and cakes. Near the entrance is the Café Roberto, a great place to catch your breath whilst touring the city on foot.

Following the Footsteps of Mikael Blomkvist – Melquwist (Hornsgatan, 78)

One of Stockholm’s top-ranked cafés is the site at which Mikael Blomkvist, the hero of Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, solved a mystery or two with the help of Lisbeth Salander. Regular customers tend to choose the full breakfast packages, which includes fresh fruit juice, a hot drink, and a hot sandwich (try the egg and mozzarella!) for 11 euros. Another appealing feature of the Melquwist is its outdoor terrace where blankets and stoves protect guests from the winter temperatures.

Shop and Café – Taverna (Hornsgatan, 5)

Unabashedly arty and contemporary, this café features a long, long wall adorned with sober black graffiti, plus a delicatessen selling a large variety of international foods, a pork butcher’s, and a bakery. There are strategically placed benches for visitors who want to enjoy a coffee on the spot.

The Infallible Classic - Vete-Katten (Kungsgatan, 55)

In business since the beginning of the 20^th century, this is a classic and elegant tea room frequented by many generations of people who come to sample the delicious bread and traditional pastries, such as semla (a brioche filled with almond cream) or the cinnamon tolls made with extra sugar and butter, which are best with a big cup of steaming black coffee. The delicious baking aromas envelope the Vete-Katten and make it easy to find – just follow your nose!

Rock & Cakes - Café Fatölgen (Götgatan, 12)

The is a curious glam-rock café with enormous crystal chandeliers, rock posters, and floral wallpaper. At five euros per huge, tempting slice, the 12 kinds of cake are worth every cent and constitute the speciality of the house. Resistance is futile!

Simply Magic - Rosendals Kafé (Rosendalsterrassen, 12)

It’s the city’s most magical spot to for having a coffee, located inside a greenhouse crowded with plants, which in turn stands in a huge garden thronged with apple trees where the hip crowd can sit outdoors in the summer. You can’t help loving the bucolic atmosphere, where you can order 100% organic food grown in the garden. The Rosendals specialities are the soups, the carrot cake, and the pastries made with flowers from the garden –try the rose and nettles cakes! 

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by Gastronomistas

Famous for its white silhouette and for being the city with the largest collection of buildings inspired by the Bauhaus (over 4,000), it is also renowned for its Mediterranean light, its multicultural, cosmopolitan milieu and its high standard of living. However, what is not so well known is that young Tel Aviv, founded in 1909, is a fantastic family resort where both the young and old can have a lot of fun. Why? The high birthrate – over three children per family – has prompted a large number of children’s facilities to be built in the city. Here are some ideas:

1. Kids might get bored with stone, the major feature of the old port of Jaffa, founded in 700 BC, which forms the original nucleus of present-day Tel Aviv. But you’re sure to win them over if you tell them it was here that Noah’s ark came to rest when the Flood subsided. This maze of well-preserved, winding streets has been exquisitely restored as part of a complete makeover. It throngs with craft shops, art galleries, cafes and artists’ studios, including the rehearsal premises of Mayumaná, a group known for its unusual way of making music using non-musical objects, such as rubbish skips, recycled objects, etc. If you start hearing weird sounds while out strolling there, they are obviously engaged in a full-blown rehearsal. Before leaving, make sure you take some amusing photos of Jaffa, like hugging the “hanging” olive tree or in front of the whale that swallowed Jonah. If you happen to be out walking at dusk, have a look at Tel Aviv’s skyline and the fishermen seeing out the day on the wharf.

2. Jaffa is the site of a pleasant Tel Aviv promenade, the Tayelet.The walk, which stretches for fourteen kilometres, starts at the old, millenary harbour and crosses Tel Aviv in a northbound direction. It can be done on foot, or by jogging, skating, skateboarding or cycling – municipal bicycles can be hired all over the city. All you need is a credit card, and that’s it! Don’t worry if you get tired of pedalling – we recommend a stop-off at one of the cafes opposite the beach, or having an ice-cream while seated on one of the benches along the promenade, where you can sun yourselves and soak in the atmosphere.

3. Tel Aviv is a coastal city with beaches where you can enjoy the warm Mediterranean climate. They are clean and lively and provide all the services – changerooms, showers, playgrounds and swings! All designed for soaking up the seaside, as here they can boast of over 300 days of sun a year. The family favourites are two in particular – Metzitzim, in the north, perhaps the beach of choice among locals, and the Jerusalem beach, which affords a perfect view of the Jaffa skyline. For interest’s sake, Hadatiyim is the beach where religious people go, while Hilton beach is preferred by surfers and homosexuals. To get into the swing of things, buy some typical wooden racquets called markot and get ready to spend hours playing on the beach.

4. A stroll down the Rothschild Boulevard is a must. Make sure to stop off at number 45, the domain of the Max Brenner Chocolate Bar. This is the Mecca of chocolate in all its shapes, colours and textures and their prices are well worth paying. The menu is so tantalising and so mouth-watering that the whole family is sure to give in to the temptation at any time of day.

5. Talking of food… somewhat less traditional are the products to be had at the Carmel Market, the best place for imbibing exotic flavours and aromas and discovering fruit, vegetables, sweets, multi-coloured spices, fresh fish, meat hanging from gigantic hooks and prepared food unrecognizable for many westerners. Strange aromas, sounds from voices and electronic devices, music and hubbub mingle in the air. Of course, the question most often heard is – What is this? Startled expressions at the new flavours are guaranteed, as are the smiles on realising that you can also find sweets in Israel! Even though they are a bit strange. But, don’t leave Carmel without tasting a pomegranate and orange juice… Mmm!

6. The Ramat Gan Zoological Center is a locally popular nature reserve where you can see exotic animals like giraffes and lions in the semi-wild. The park tour, measuring one square kilometre, is done by car, as if on a short safari. Be warned, though – the size is deceptive. The circuit is so well designed that it seems bigger than you imagine. If you don’t have your own car, you can hire one.

7. Hayarkon Park is a replica of New York’s Central Park in all respects, including appearance and size – it stretches over four square kilometres. We recommend taking a bicycle ride along the riverbank and having a picnic and, for dessert, a game of cricket – a popular game in Israel. There is also a lake where you can hire a boat, several ponds with ducks and even a climbing wall where you can try out your skills as a rock climber.

A place worth visiting with the family! Check out our prices here.

Text and images by Nani Arenas