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On the Trail of Van Gogh

Located in the south of France, an hour’s drive from Marseilles and alongside the Rhone, Arles is a town you really must see if you’re heading to Provence. And, if you’re also a fan of Van Gogh, you have even more reasons to rediscover the landscapes and architectures that inspired the grand master in his Post-Impressionist painting.

Arles’ Roman Past

You cannot possibly visit this town without becoming steeped in its Roman heritage. In AD 46, as a reward for having supported Julius Caesar is his struggle against Pompey, Arles was turned into the major harbour in the area, a privilege which was withdrawn from Massilia (the former Marseilles), for having mistakenly supported the opposite side. As a result, the town then lived out its age of splendour, of which several monuments have survived the test of time, some still in excellent condition. One example is the Arles Arenas, an amphitheatre built around the 1st century AD for staging gladiator combats, the most spectacular show at the time. It is still used today, as it hosts theatre plays, concerts, bullfights and courses camarguaises (a typically local type of bullfighting). The 1st-century AD Roman Theatre is another standout monument in the city. Like all Roman cities, Arles also had its forum, the centre of the community’s social, political and religious life. In addition to the nomenclature, Place du Forum, it features an underground Cryptoporticus, a network of galleries where foundations were laid and which is open to visitors, accessed via the Hôtel de la Ville.

Other Sights in the Town

The Church of St. Trophime, located in the town hall square, is a classic example of Provençal Romanesque and Gothic. Built between the 12th and 15th century, its cloister is also well worth visiting. Another interesting sight is the Alyscamps, A Roman necropolis which was taken over by the Christians and used until the end of the Middle Ages. For those interested in discovering the town’s archaeological history, we can recommend a visit to the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, which features some striking mosaics, among other things.

Arles – the Setting for Van Gogh’s Paintings

Apart from drawing tourists to its monumental heritage, Arles attracts visitors for having being one of the major settings for Van Gogh’s works. The artist’s sojourn in the town was comparatively short – from February 1888 to May 1889 – but there he was hugely prolific, producing over 200 paintings. Captivated by its light and colour, he painted it in all its guises. Curiously enough, not one of these paintings is housed in Arles, but you can still visit all the places that inspired them. We recommend getting a street map – which can be picked up in the tourist office – and letting yourself get carried away. Some of the landmarks on the Van Gogh tour are:

- The Maison Jaune (Yellow House), on the Place Lamartine;

- The “Café la Nuit” (Night Café), on the Place du Forum;

- Arles Arenas and the Alyscamps;

- Trinquetaille Bridge;

- “Starry Night Over the Rhone”;

- “The Old Mill”, on rue Mireille;

- The garden on the Boulevard des Lices;

- The garden of the hospital, known as the Espace Van Gogh (where he was admitted during his illness and where he had his ear stitched back on after cutting it off);

- The Langlois Bridge, also known as the Van Gogh Bridge.

However, Arles did not only serve as Van Gogh’s haunts. Gauguin also visited the town and painted some of its spots. It was precisely on account of an argument between the two painters that Van Gogh ended up cutting off his ear. Another genius, Picasso, also frequented Arles over a number of years. He would often go there to watch bullfighting and to visit his friends. Proof of his close ties to the town is the donation he made of fifty-seven drawings, which can be seen in the Arles Fine Arts Museum, the Musée Réattu.

Ready to take a Vueling and be dazzled by Arles?

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Joan Sorolla, Tristan Taussac, Anne Jacko, Shadowgate, Phillip Capper, Claude Valette

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Enjoying tapas in Granada

Many comments have been made following the post we created on 21 June entitled Enjoying tapas in Granada 
on the Facebook page of Vueling People. You have suggested various places and other cities besides Granada for enjoying tapas in style so we thought it would be a good idea to gather all this information and try to create a tapas trail around Granada for Vueling People. Without further ado, here is the first trail you have created with your comments. More will surely follow. Your contributions are always welcome and we will try to publish them on myvuelingcity.com; the website for discovering the well-kept secrets of Vuelingdestinations.

Ardilla Feliz has suggested Borsalino of Granada. In Borsalino, they give you a free tapa when you order a bottle of beer – standard practice throughout Granada. Very close to the bus station, the residents of Borsalino (the name given to the patrons of this bar) remember this place for the quality of its tapas and the friendly welcome from its owners.

Eli Moreno added more information about Granada by suggesting the La Chana district for enjoying some great tapas at D’cuadros, Doña Rosquita and Torcuato. Besides a great variety of exquisite tapas, Casa Torcuato boasts spectacular views of the city from its location in the heart of the Albaicín district. It is always full but you never have to wait long to get served and, as is customary, you get a free tapa when you order a beer. Better not to let the alcohol go to your head from an empty stomach!

RM López Rodríguez has suggested the Velilla Cafetería Celeste and Los Diamantes. Los Diamantes is another of those bars packed with people but where they offer some amazing ‘pescaíto frito’ or ‘fried fish’. Located on Calle Navas, it is a classic among tapas-lovers in Granada and one of the establishments with the longest history behind it. This is corroborated by Cristina Jimenez, who also says that “for some tapas in great surroundings, the Albaicin district (Plaza La Larga, Plaza de San Nicolás, Torcuato, Mascarones…) and the city centre has millions of places with good Spanish ham and good wines, like Casa de Enrique “the Elephant” next to the cathedral…”. Casa Enrique is at first-sight a rather humble bar but is known by everyone for having some very good cold meats, including Spanish ham.

Cunini is another of the famous places suggested to us by Esther Arribas. It can also be found in the historic city centre, close to the Cathedral, and features an excellent offer of fish and shellfish. Just like most places in Granada, it is usually full and hard to get a table – but if you do, your stomach will certainly thank you for it!

Still in the centre of Granada, Antonio S. Zayas recommends the Bodegas Castañeda in the area near Calle Elvira. Many people rate its tapas and cold meats among the best in Granada but absolutely everyone agrees on the quality of its wines, some of which are home-made such as the “castañeda” and the “calisacas” not to mention its vermouth.

Africa Alemán sends us to the bars in Plaza del Aguaor and Begoña Benito says we really shouldn’t miss La Bella y La Bestia or El Reventaero in Granada, on Camino de Ronda. “Reventaero” means “bursting in Spanish and with such an abundance of tapas it is easy to see why.

Both Consuelo Martos and Anna Calero point us in the direction of the Bullring where we can find La Ermita; a restaurant with a fine selection of reasonably-priced tapas and good Spanish ham, just as it should be.

We will conclude this Vueling People tapas trail around Granada with the recommendation made byManuel Bega to discover the bars of Gran Vía in Granada and to explore other town in the province of Granada, such as Motril.

Continuing with tapas theme, more Vueling People users have suggested other places like Calle Laurel in Logroño – one of the suggestions made by Fátima Cabañas and Pilar Darder. Others, such as Cristina Prat and Yorkin Beriguete recommend we visit the old part of Bilbao and particularly the unique Victor Montes – first-class tapas in northern Spain.

Many of you have suggested various places throughout Spain, such as Zaragoza, Almeria, Leon (particularly, el Húmedo), Barcelona (Ca l’Arturet in Castelldefels), Avila, Seville (el Eslava is apparently unmissable) and Linares.

Ramón Torregrossa reminds Shiro Takiki of a great place for tapas in Madrid called Bar Scrum at 7 Calle del Sol and Vicent Stronger recommends the Viña district of Cadiz.

We will soon be bringing you another Vueling People tapas trail around another one of our destinations. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Catch you later and bon appétit!

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!


 

 

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Steel Glass & Art 21st Century Bilbao

Its industrial past well behind it, but true to its roots, Bilbao is today a modern, cosmopolitan city offering the finest cuisine, music and, in particular, art and architecture. Indeed, ever since the Guggenheim Museum opened to the public in the mid-1990s, the Basque capital has become a magnet for devotees of contemporary art and architecture. In tandem with the museum’s inception, the city saw an upsurge in urban renewal – historical constructions were restored, stunning modern buildings erected and the estuary precincts were integrated with green areas and the layout of a metro network, designed by the likes of Sir Norman Foster. Hence, Bilbao is currently one of Europe’s best cities to live in. Here, then, is our tour of its most groundbreaking museums and buildings.

Around the Guggenheim Museum

This monumental building designed by Frank O. Gehry is an icon of the transformed Bilbao and an international art and architectural yardstick. It is rewarding to saunter around the building and become enveloped in the curves on its facades, and in awe of the famous Spider by Louise Bourgeois, or the acclaimed Puppy by Jeff Koons. Venturing into its interior, however, is a unique experience. Wandering through the steel labyrinth of The Matter of Time, by Richard Serra, or visiting the noteworthy temporary exhibitions that pass through the Guggenheim, is something all art lovers should make a point of doing.

Near the museum stands La Salve Bridge. While is has been spanning the estuary since 1972, it was not until 2007 that the French artist Daniel Buren added its famous Red Arch. Also worth seeing and adjoining the Guggenheim is the New University of Deusto Library, by Rafael Moneo, with its monolithic volume and rounded corners.

Just behind it stands the Iberdrola Tower. Designed by César Pelli, this 41-storey, 165-metre-high tower with its dramatic appearance is the tallest building in the Basque Country. It is flanked by the Viviendas Ferrater housing project, two luxury buildings designed by Carlos and Lucía Ferrater, Xavier Martí and Luis Domínguez. Opposite them lies the Plaza de Euskadi, by the landscape architect, Diana Balmori.

The Museo de Bellas Artes – A Contemporary Classic

Located near the Plaza de Euskadi, opposite Doña Casilda Park, the Museo de Bellas Artes provides an enhancement to the great collections of classical European art with its selection of top-notch works, including a Lucretia by Lucas Cranach the Elder and paintings by Francisco de Goya, El Greco and Zurbarán, while the contemporary section features paintings by Miquel Barceló and Francis Bacon. Here, you can actually travel from ancient times to the 21st century. To cater for such a variety, the building, originally dating from 1945, was upgraded incrementally, leading to its current appearance. The latest renovation has endowed both the exterior and interior with a leading-edge look. It dates from from 1996, when Luis María Uriarte opened new spaces and added the structure and glass foyer which now provide access to the museum.

Strolling Along the Estuary

The ría, once a dark, polluted estuary, was converted into one of the recreational areas of choice for Bilbao’s residents. Part of this upgrade is due to the Isozaki Atea (Isozaki Gateway) project, an ensemble of seven buildings designed by the Japanese architect, Arata Isozaki, in collaboration with the Bilbao architect, Iñaki Aurrekoetxea. Opposite this precinct stands the Zubizuri Bridge, Santiago Calatrava’s contribution to Bilbao, although also the most controversial landmark in the city.

The Alhóndiga and Osakidetza

Venturing into Bilbao’s Ensanche district will inevitably lead visitors to the Azkuna Zentroa or Azkuna Centre, better known as the Alhóndiga, a former wine exchange which has now been converted into a vibrant hub of leisure and culture. Originally completed in 1909 to a design by Ricardo Bastida, it was innovative for its time on account of the architect’s use of such materials as reinforced concrete. Following an overhaul assigned to architect Philippe Starck, it re-opened to the public in 2010 as a multi-purpose centre.

A short distance away, you get the impression of suddenly having stepped into the heart of Europe  when confronted by the Osakidetza (Public Health building), unmistakeable for the polyhedral design of its facade, by Juan Coll-Barreu.

Before leaving Bilbao, be sure to visit the city’s metro which, designed by Sir Norman Foster, is said to be one of the best in the world.

Book your Vueling to Bilbao and delight in its museums and magnificent buildings.

Text and images by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Ten Must-Sees in Jerusalem

Realising that you are walking in one of the oldest cities on earth is awe-inspiring. Here are ten pointers to understanding and enjoying this fascinating yet complex city, bearing in mind that biblical, epic and historical landmarks are a constant in this metropolis, where religion has pulsated since time immemorial.

1. To get a feel for the size and layout of Jerusalem, we shall start our tour on the Mount of Olives, affording one of the best panoramic views of the city – the old city, the new city, the walls, tombs… thousands of years of history at a simple glance.

2. On the way down, stop off at Gethsemane and stroll through the groves of millennial olive trees. Then, visit the Church of All Nations, built on the rock where Jesus prayed before being arrested.

3. To come to grips with Jerusalem, it is essential to understand it is “thrice-holy”; that is, sacred to the three great monotheistic religions. Judaism, Christianity and Islam have part of their roots in these backstreets. The Wailing Wall, the Al-Aqsa mosque and the Holy Sepulchre are three landmarks you should not fail to visit, whatever your beliefs. Let’s start with the Wailing Wall or Western Wall, the only remaining vestige of Jerusalem’s Second Temple, the holiest of Jewish places, which was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. You have to pass through several security checks on the way in. Once inside, men on one side and women on the other. Men must also cover their heads with a Jewish kippah or skullcap.

You are met by a unique, striking setting – hundreds of people facing the wall and rocking to and fro as they pray. If you look up, you see the Esplanade of the Mosques, another privileged vantage point with Jerusalem at your feet. Here, the two striking landmarks are the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, the latter built on the spot where it is believed that Muhammad rose into paradise. Its crowning gold dome has become a veritable symbol. The esplanade is also a reference point for both Jews and Christians as it was here that Abraham was about to sacrifice his son, Isaac. For Christians the holiest place is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Built on Mount Golgotha (Calvary), this is the spot where Jesus died on the Cross. It is also the site of his sepulchre or burial place, where he was resurrected on the third day. Also preserved is the Stone of Anointing, where Christ’s lifeless body rested. Many landmarks and endless queues; you need to be patient.

4. But, not everything is religion. Jerusalem also features examples of the avant-garde and some upmarket shopping precincts. If you walk along Mamilla Mall, judging by the brands on display there, you could easily be in London or Paris. Access to the mall is via the Jaffa Gate – have your visa ready!

5. The Mamilla is also Jerusalem’s first designer hotel, and a sanctuary for sybarites who relish sleeping against the backdrop of the old city walls and David’s Tower. Mamilla Hotel is a blend of the eternal and the avant-garde – millennial stone walls and metal headboards and, as a plus, a miraculous spa and a gourmet restaurant with privileged views.

6. Those with classical taste will perhaps prefer the King David, the epitome of a grand hotel. Once the headquarters of the British Mandate, the hotel now excels as a luxury establishment which has seen such illustrious overnighters as King Felipe and Queen Letizia, the Prince of Wales, Barack Obama, Nicolas Sarkozy and Margaret Thatcher and, from the world of celebrity fame, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Richard Gere and Madonna. The sober exterior of the hotel contrasts with the elegant, modern interior and the comfortable rooms. Prices are in keeping with the standing of its prestigious customers.

7. We head back to the old city to tour the Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian quarters. In all these precincts the shops are well-stocked – food, a variety of souvenirs, perfumes, confectionery, religious objects, T-shirts and antiquities worth thousands of euros, including Roman coins, vessels from Christ’s time… If you can’t afford them, that shouldn’t put you off soaking up the charm of these alleyways and their people from all religions, races and cultures. Jerusalem’s old city is a melting pot thronging with Orthodox and non-Orthodox Jews, Arabs, Christians, Westerners, Asians… Where bells chime and muezzins call to prayer.

8. A colourful and more affordable alternative is the local Mahane Yehuda market but, be warned – don’t go there on Shabbat (the Sabbath) as it is the Jewish holy day. The city comes to a standstill at sunset on Friday until sunset on Saturday, an important detail to remember when planning your trip.

9. Before leaving Jerusalem, make sure you visit at least two of its museums. Yad Vashem is the Holocaust memorial, a world centre of documentation, research, education and commemoration, while the Israel Museum is where the Dead Sea Scrolls are on display, the oldest biblical manuscript in the world, as is an amazing mock-up of historical Jerusalem, which will help you understand the city.

10. To round off your trip, make your farewell from Mount Scopus where, in addition to viewing the skyline of the old city, you will also see the waters of the Dead Sea, another of those places worth visiting at least once in a lifetime.

What more could you ask for? Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Nani Arenas

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