Splendour Nobility & Beauty on the Loire
About an hour’s journey from Paris lies the Loire Valley, an area of vital importance in France’s history and one of the country’s fortes when it comes to tourism. The valley played a vital strategic role in the past – while it was there that, in the Middle Ages, defence works were first erected to contain the Vikings, centuries later it was the setting for the bloody battle between the English and French during the Hundred Years’ War. The reign of Charles VII marked a turning point for this beautiful valley as it was then that it reached its moment of maximum splendour and became the favourite haunts of the French nobility. They embarked on a spectacular spree of castle building on rural lands, the castles becoming veritable recreational grounds for giving free rein to their hedonistic urges. Subsequently, the French Revolution wrought havoc among most of them, leading to the loss of a considerable portion of the area’s heritage. The castles were later restored with a view to recovering their bygone splendour and they have now become one of France’s leading tourist attractions.
According to the association, “Châteaux de la Loire, Vallée des Rois” (Castles of the Loire, Valley of the Kings), which is tasked with managing the Loire Valley’s heritage, the region boasts some 70 listed sites which, in addition to castles, also include abbeys, churches and museums. Clearly, it would be madness to attempt seeing it all in one go. Visitors usually make a selection of sites to see before their tour. Here, then, are some of the standout castles:
Château de Chambord – This former hunting lodge of King Francis I is one of the kingpins of the French Renaissance in which the medieval tradition blends seamlessly with classical Italian structures. It is one of the largest and most popular castles on the route. The forest of chimneys towering over the rooftop and the double spiral staircase in the interior are absolutely stunning.
Château de Cheverny – Belonging to the Hurault family, is also dates from the Renaissance and is noteworthy for its interior decoration. Curiously enough, the building was the source of inspiration for Hergé, the creator of Tintin, when he drewChâteau de Moulinsart(Marlinspike Hall).
Château de Chenonceau – Also known as “The Ladies’ Chateau”, it is a veritable icon on the Loire châteaux route and one of the most widely visited. Built in the 16th century, one of its most striking features is its location, spanning the river Cher.
Château de Blois – The official residence of the French Kings during the Renaissance. Of the many tales that arose around it is one that claims Joan of Arc was blessed in its chapel before leading her army out to relieve the besieged city of Orleans. It now operates as a museum.
Château d'Amboise – Originally a medieval fortress, it was turned into a royal residence during the reigns of Charles VIII and Francis I. Its claim to fame is that Leonardo da Vinci was buried here after spending the last three years of his life in the castle.
Château de Langeais – Regarded as the oldest fortress in France, much of its medieval charm remains intact, including the drawbridge, which strikes a marked contrast with the Renaissance style of the west facade.
Château de Chaumont – One of its numerous owners was Catherine de Medici who counted Nostradamus among the many guests she entertained there. The garden, designed by Henri Duchêne, is where an annual International Garden Festival is currently hosted from late April to mid-October.
Five days is considered to be the minimum amount of time you need to spend on a Loire Valley itinerary. You can plan a linear route, starting from a point nearest Paris and ending on the far side (or the other way around), or stay in one of the major cities along the route, like Orleans, Blois and Tours, and make sorties from there to various landmark sites you have chosen. The most comfortable way to get around is by car, although there are other alternatives, including availing yourself of the many bus tours to be had, and combining them to suit your agenda. The fittest among you can opt to tour these lands by bicycle, taking advantage of the comparatively flat terrain.
Be sure to take a flight to Paris and head for one of these valleys with their pedigree collection of castles.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Thomas Steiner, Benh LIEU SONG, MFSG, Jean-Christophe BENOIST
more infoSantander – Apart From “Rabas”
Two clichés about Santander. One is 100% true. The other is gradually becoming less so. The first (true) one – you simply have to visit Santander, as it is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. The second (dispensable) one – you have to eatrabas(deep-fried squid rings). Well, no, you don’t need to because the Cantabrian capital’s culinary offerings have grown in quality and diversity, something we went to try out on our palate.
Umma
Modern, informal cuisine tends to be a ploy. On the pretext of being modern and informal – wham! – they pull a fast one on you. This is not so with Umma. On the contrary. The dishes are recognisable, the produce good and, above all, the sense of taste is above average. Well above average. Miguel Ángel Rodríguez has turned an erstwhile family restaurant into one of the must-visit eateries of Santander. His flair for toying with new ingredients in the same dish, balancing them and bringing out the best in each recipe is prodigious. He takes it in his stride, and it stands to reason, as he has done it all at Noma (Copenhagen), Mugaritz (Rentería) and Cenador de Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria), all distinguished by the Michelin Guide and the magazine, Restaurant.
Star dishes; each better, tastier and more dazzling than the next, refining and updating the flavours of Cantabria. Starting with the scrumptious croquettes – round, crisp on the outside, and creamy, almost liquid, on the inside. Then the Santoña anchovy pizza, pork jowl, Gomber cheese, black olives, rocket and dried tomatoes, and ending with two symphonic dishes – beef tongue, mushroom and hazelnut carpaccio and organic eggs with jerky and mushrooms. Take note of the home-brewed beer and the wines, far removed from the wine-cellar establishment. Noteworthy, too, are the exhibits gracing the walls, and the jazz and soul concerts held on Thursday nights.
Umma is what the Japanese exclaim when they like something a lot, and umma is what you’ll say on leaving the establishment after lunching or dining there.
Average price: €35-40 (lunch menu, €18; fast-good menu from Tuesday to Friday, €14, and tasting menu, €39).
Mexsia
When you enter Mexsia and catch sight of the glasses placed any old how, teetering on the edge of the table, you think, “This must be a special place”. Well, yes, because, as you came in, you noticed the background music and the lighting that made you think you were in a pub, rather than a restaurant. Maybe, no… well, yes – this is a gastropub. It is the brainchild of Óscar Calleja, holder of a Michelin star at Annua (in San Vicente de la Barquera). Mixture, fusion, delight. Mexico and Asia – “Mexsia”. Pungent, spicy sauce, like serrano-chile green gazpacho and charcoaled scallop, shrimpaguachile with Chamoy sauce – a fine dish with citrus accompanying excellent produce; exciting like fried maki in tempura with spider crab, masera and avocado pear, or like singed salmon nigiri with crisp nori algae. Sharp, like the homemade nachos served with three, likewise homemade sauces…
Average price: €25-30 (fast-good lunch menu from Tuesday to Friday, €15, and tasting menus for €25 and €30).
El Remedio
They might as well have called it El Paraíso, because the spot where the restaurant is located is paradisiacal, dream-like, marvellous, beautiful… A 19th-century hermitage, a deep green meadow, a cliff, with the sea in the background – unsurpassable! Here, you can live out the Stendhal syndrome for yourself. But, El Remedio is also a good name because, while you are there, you forget about all your concerns; so, it is a remedy for all ailments, albeit a temporary one.
While splendid when the sun shines, in a storm it must be spectacular. A gift on the eyes and the soul, bolstered by the cuisine of Samuel Fernández, attached to the land and sea seen from his restaurant. You must order the megano (a tiny squid done on the griddle) with potato in squid ink, scallop with boletus sauce and cured bellota ham (with a long, intense flavour), dried beans with field mushrooms, a finger-licking, long-simmered stew, fried bull’s tail with beetroot mustard and barbecue sauce. And, all this eaten while gazing out over the horizon. And dreaming away…
Average price: €40.
Goodness me – what gastronomic diversity! Why wait to relish it all? Check out our flights here.
Text and photos: Ferran Imedio (Gastronomistas.com)
more infoBowie & Sónar 2017
Apart from this conjunction in location and time, can an event like Sónar 2017, with the most advanced music proposals, be related to a figure who was able to capture and assimilate the essence of upcoming trends for nearly half a century like David Bowie. We believe that it can indeed. At My Vueling City we lay several bridges between the two and single out items in this year’s Sónar programme which embody the ever-restless spirit of “The Thin White Duke”.
Rebel Rebel
Bowie’s demeanour was always tinged with a heady potion of defiance against established values. He never settled in to any set aesthetic, as evinced in his constant regeneration – at every new release, he rebelled against the previous one, which accounts for his endless change of image.
The exhibition, David Bowie Is, opens at the Museu del Disseny de Barcelona on 25 May 2017. Produced by London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, it has already attracted over one and a half million visitors in the eight cities where it has been hosted so far, including London, Berlin, Paris and Chicago, making it the most visited exhibition in the 164 years since the inception of the V&A.
On display at the exhibition are over 300 objects, including photographs, record covers, handwritten letters, original costumes, stage designs and hitherto unseen material from Bowie’s concerts over the last five decades, on loan from the David Bowie Archive. David Bowie Is takes an in-depth look at the way David Bowie’s music and radical individualism have inspired others by defying conventions and seeking freedom of expression.
The Impact of Sound, and Sight Too
This year Barcelona is hosting two events related to music, and also to advanced thinking and the creative avant-garde. On the one hand, the largest exhibition ever dedicated to Bowie and, on the other, the world’s largest electronic music festival. We all know Bowie’s prowess in the musical sphere, in terms of his great ability to assimilate styles and his insatiable effervescence, which kept him constantly in touch with the latest trends until the end of his life. Indeed, the standard bearer of glam rock also flirted with more advanced genres, notably ambient music and drum and bass. Here then are some of the proposals in this year’s Sónar programme which we feel are imbued with Bowie’s spirit through and through.
Arca
Arca undoubtedly condenses the cryptic essence of Bowie’s final studio album.Blackstar and Arca speak the same language – both are solemn; both seem to know the afterlife. Of all the world’s festivals, Sónar was singled out by Arca, the unclassifiable musician and producer, for a live presentation of his newly released work which redefines him as an even more complex and evolved figure. This show will also feature the presence of and visuals by Jesse Kanda.
Moderat
Bowie moved to Berlin in the second half of the 1970s and there he became steeped in the high-calibre art and music scene. Those were the years of his collaboration with Brian Eno, during which he released the trilogy of Low, Heroes and Lodger. Moderat clearly dovetails to perfection into this pure Berlinese tradition – pop and electronic music with tunes in black and white. Moderat started out as a collaborative project between Gernot Bronsert and Sebastian Szary (Modeselektor) on the one hand, and Sacha Ring (Apparat) on the other. The idea was to work together whenever their respective projects left them enough spare time.
Nicolas Jaar
Bowie incorporated the new dance and experimental music trends in the 1990s, as evinced in such albums as Earthling and Outside, with a nod to drum and bass, electronic metal and even avant-garde jazz. Nicolas Jaar is a musician who merges seamlessly into that philosophy of musical defiance which cannot be stuffed into any specific stylistic straitjacket and also imparts a political or poetic message to his creations.
Phosphereby Daito Manabe
Music was Bowie’s great passion throughout his long career. He collaborated with the great stars of pop and rock, notably Queen, Lou Reed and Mick Jagger, and those of contemporary music such as Philip Glass, but that was not the only discipline he excelled at. He also collaborated with such top-notch artists as Tony Oursler. So, it can’t be ruled out that Bowie might have authored the background music to Phonosphere, by Daito Manabe, one of the most acclaimed digital artists in the world. This installation is an important step forward in new kinds of immersive creation and will be one of the highlights of Sónar+D 2017. This monumental structure is a robotic hybrid architecture in which synchronized mirrors, smoke machines, beams of light and up to 24 video projectors combine to create an unprecedented spatial experience, drawing from the world of new contemporary dance music, as well as the vocabulary of projection mapping.
Boris Chimp 504
Space Oddity was Bowie’s first big hit. The single was released at a time when humanity was in the grips of space exploration in the guise of journeys beyond the stratosphere. With his Multiverse, Boris Chimp 504 takes us back to that period. This audiovisual, real-time performance emphasises the relationship between audio synthesis and graphical language, with the story of the first ape to be sent to the moon in 1969 as the point of departure.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and score a luxury double in its most highly evolved aspect – Sónar – while looking back to the figure of The Thin White Duke at the exhibition, David Bowie Is.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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10 Top Art Museums in Berlin
That Berlin has a daunting variety of cultural resources is a well-known fact. Indeed, it is one of the main reasons for visiting the city. Added to the alternative venues that appear to spring up in the most unlikely spots in town – and not always easy to locate, at that – there are the more official offerings, which include a vast range of museums. Hence, those given to “collecting museums” on their journeys to various cities in the world will face a dilemma when it comes to Berlin – that of having to choose from the huge gamut of museums, housing an overwhelming quality and quantity of works.
The Museum Island
Museum Island (Museumsinsel), as it was re-christened in 1870, takes up the northern half of the island formed by the river Spree on its passage through the city. This is a must-visit destination for any museum buff in Berlin. It contains no fewer than five splendid museums, featuring collections that enable you to travel through art from ancient times to the 19th century. The value of the vast collections here led it to be listed as a World Heritage Site in 1999.
One of the most striking spaces in the complex is the Pergamon Museum, which draws about one million visitors a year. It features a collection of classical antiquities, a museum dedicated to Middle Eastern art, and another devoted to Islamic art. The building was designed to house large-scale artworks, notably its two standout exhibits – the Pergamon Altar and the Ishtar Gate.
The highlight of the Altes Museum (Old Museum) is the building itself. Dating from 1830, it is the work of the architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel, and one of the finest examples of German Neoclassicism. Housed in its interior is a splendid collection of exhibits from classical antiquity.
Sited behind the previous museum is the Neues Museum (New Museum), home to the magnificent collection of the Egyptian Museum of Berlin and the Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). Its paramount exhibit is the superlative Nefertiti bust, which attracts a large number of visitors each year.
No less important is the Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), a magnet for enthusiasts of 19th-century art, and the Bode Museum, with an endowment that includes sculpture ranging from Byzantine to Italian Gothic to Prussian Baroque, as well as one of the largest numismatic collections in the world.
Gemäldegalerie
The Gemäldegalerie lies west of Potsdamer Platz, within the complex of museums and concert halls making up the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). The gallery houses an excellent collection of paintings by European artists active from the 13th to the 18th century, with works by Dürer, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Hans Holbein, Jan van Eyck, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Rubens, Rembrandt and Johannes Vermeer.
Neue Nationalgalerie
Another of the museums making up the Kulturforum is the Neue Nationalgalerie. Located in the Tiergarten, it is housed in an original building with glassed walls and a spectacular metal roof, the work of the architect Mies van der Rohe. Opened in 1968, this museum specialises in international art from the early 20th century to 1960. Standout features of this collection are the work of the German Expressionists and the Bauhaus.
Martin Gropius Building
Located on the Niederkirchnerstraße, between Checkpoint Charlie and Potsdamer Platz, in a building designed by the great uncle of the architect who founded the Bauhaus, Walter Gropius, this interesting exhibition space is celebrated for its excellent temporary exhibitions.
Berlinische Galerie
Inaugurated in 1975, the Berlinische Galerie is the best option for whoever wishes to take the pulse of art production in Berlin, as its collection features artworks produced in the German capital from 1870 until the present time. It is situated in Kreuzberg, one of the trendiest districts in the city where, if you’re good at getting your bearings, you can unearth the best of the alternative scene.
Berggruen Museum
Lastly, we have also chosen the Berggruen Museum, located opposite Charlottenburg Palace, as it houses exhibits donated by the art collector and dealer Heinz Berggruen. It is a collection of modern art classics with works by Picasso, Matisse, Klee and Giacometti as its major offerings.
Book your Vueling to Berlin and get ready to discover its magnificent museums.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Lestat, Manfred Brückels, Christoph Rehbach. Rae Allen, Pedelecs, Jean-Pierre Dalbéra
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