Zürich – A Box Filled With Chocolates
“It turns out that in 1917, Einstein, Lenin and Joyce coincided in Zürich.There, Einstein lectured at the ETH, Lenin busied himself preparing the Russian revolution, while Joyce wrote Ulysses. The city is growing on me every day.”
These lines were posted in the Facebook profile of a Spanish friend living in Switzerland’s largest city. She also writes, and is somewhat revolutionary. She doesn’t lecture, that we know of, but it’s early days still. What is such a Mediterranean girl doing in a place like that? The moment we arrived there we had our answer. You can enjoy the vibrant cultural scene, its restaurants, its lake, the river Limmat, its parks, the silence and its modest size as cities go, meaning you can cross it by tram, or be tempted to cycle or walk around it.
Did you know that what the Swiss miss most when they travel is bread? That the owner of the legendary Café Odeon was able to build it thanks to the money he won on the Spanish lottery? That muesli was invented by the physician, Maximilian Bircher-Benner, from Zürich University, and that the historic Opfelchammer restaurant, a favourite of the local novelist, Gottfried Keller, allow you to carve your name on the beams if you drink enough wine? You imagine there is a luxurious city awaiting you, having forgotten that the Protestant Reformation started precisely here 500 years ago and that all ostentation was banned. Like filled chocolates, Zürich holds out surprises. You never know what you’re likely to come across.
Zürichis not an economical destination, but there are ways of reining in your expenditure. Before setting out to discover the city, buy a ZürichCARD. It permits you to catch the train from the airport to the city, where you can take all the tram lines and gain free (or discounted) entry to over 90 establishments.
If you fancy dining at a traditional – yet modern – spot, make sure you head for Haus Hiltl, Europe’s longest surviving vegetarian restaurant, dating from 1898. It offers a buffet with a choice of over 100 specialities – you pay according to how much you fill your plate – in addition to a bookshop, store, culinary studio and bar lounge.
If you’re into the eclectic, you should drop in on Les Halles, an erstwhile warehouse which doubles as a restaurant and market and is famous for its moules frites (mussels with fries). There, you can also buy and eat sausage, cheeses, wines and other delicacies from the old Europe.
If you prefer to dine in a formal atmosphere, make your way to La Salle. They serve a fine steak tartare, various fresh pasta dishes and a classic, homemade meat pie with red wine and mashed potato sauce which you really must try.
You can while your way into the night at numerous bars and clubs, such as the Nietturm Bar, located on the top floor above La Salle. This stylish locale serves the Hugo cocktail (prosecco, elderflower syrup, sparkling water, mint, lime and ice), or you could order a glass of local Zürich wine while taking in the breathtaking views over the city.
If the weather turns nasty or you’re numbed by the cold, go on a cruise around Lake Zurich. And, while you’re at it, enjoy a Swiss brunch – with cheese, bread, salmon, jam, fruit and pastries – while vineyards and fairytale houses parade before your eyes as you drift soothingly along. The brunch-cruise only operates on Sundays and you must book beforehand through Zürichsee Schifffahrt.
If, on the contrary, what you fancy is hoofing it as much as you can, go for their street food. You can wolf down the sausages at Sternen Grill, a hot soup at La Zoupa and marroni (roast chestnuts) at the street stalls. If your stay takes in more than just the weekend, make sure you try their looped pretzels and the other bäckerei (bakery) specialities in season at Vohdin (Oberdorfstrasse, 12), a shop front that has been open since 1626.
If you can afford it, take up lodgings on the 10th floor of the Sheraton Zürich Hotel, located in Zürich–West, the in district. The rooms are spacious, bright and comfortable; wifi is free-of-charge and there are two culinary options – the Route Twenty-Six restaurant (from the 26 Swiss cantons), featuring sumptuous breakfast buffets, and the Café & Bar Nuovo,ideal for afternoon coffee or a nighttime Qüollfrisch naturtrüb beer.
If you fancy bringing back a genuine souvenir in your suitcase, head for a local supermarket and get yourself a mini fondue of Gerber cheese and a bag of Frey chocolates, two historic brands that will sit sweet on the palate. Although – be warned – it will never be the same as having a fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi or hot chocolate at Péclard.
Make haste and savour the Swiss delights of Zürich! Check out our flights here.
Text by Carme Gasull (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Mireia Aranda and Zurich Tourism
Santander – Apart From “Rabas”
Two clichés about Santander. One is 100% true. The other is gradually becoming less so. The first (true) one – you simply have to visit Santander, as it is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. The second (dispensable) one – you have to eatrabas(deep-fried squid rings). Well, no, you don’t need to because the Cantabrian capital’s culinary offerings have grown in quality and diversity, something we went to try out on our palate.
Umma
Modern, informal cuisine tends to be a ploy. On the pretext of being modern and informal – wham! – they pull a fast one on you. This is not so with Umma. On the contrary. The dishes are recognisable, the produce good and, above all, the sense of taste is above average. Well above average. Miguel Ángel Rodríguez has turned an erstwhile family restaurant into one of the must-visit eateries of Santander. His flair for toying with new ingredients in the same dish, balancing them and bringing out the best in each recipe is prodigious. He takes it in his stride, and it stands to reason, as he has done it all at Noma (Copenhagen), Mugaritz (Rentería) and Cenador de Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria), all distinguished by the Michelin Guide and the magazine, Restaurant.
Star dishes; each better, tastier and more dazzling than the next, refining and updating the flavours of Cantabria. Starting with the scrumptious croquettes – round, crisp on the outside, and creamy, almost liquid, on the inside. Then the Santoña anchovy pizza, pork jowl, Gomber cheese, black olives, rocket and dried tomatoes, and ending with two symphonic dishes – beef tongue, mushroom and hazelnut carpaccio and organic eggs with jerky and mushrooms. Take note of the home-brewed beer and the wines, far removed from the wine-cellar establishment. Noteworthy, too, are the exhibits gracing the walls, and the jazz and soul concerts held on Thursday nights.
Umma is what the Japanese exclaim when they like something a lot, and umma is what you’ll say on leaving the establishment after lunching or dining there.
Average price: €35-40 (lunch menu, €18; fast-good menu from Tuesday to Friday, €14, and tasting menu, €39).
Mexsia
When you enter Mexsia and catch sight of the glasses placed any old how, teetering on the edge of the table, you think, “This must be a special place”. Well, yes, because, as you came in, you noticed the background music and the lighting that made you think you were in a pub, rather than a restaurant. Maybe, no… well, yes – this is a gastropub. It is the brainchild of Óscar Calleja, holder of a Michelin star at Annua (in San Vicente de la Barquera). Mixture, fusion, delight. Mexico and Asia – “Mexsia”. Pungent, spicy sauce, like serrano-chile green gazpacho and charcoaled scallop, shrimpaguachile with Chamoy sauce – a fine dish with citrus accompanying excellent produce; exciting like fried maki in tempura with spider crab, masera and avocado pear, or like singed salmon nigiri with crisp nori algae. Sharp, like the homemade nachos served with three, likewise homemade sauces…
Average price: €25-30 (fast-good lunch menu from Tuesday to Friday, €15, and tasting menus for €25 and €30).
El Remedio
They might as well have called it El Paraíso, because the spot where the restaurant is located is paradisiacal, dream-like, marvellous, beautiful… A 19th-century hermitage, a deep green meadow, a cliff, with the sea in the background – unsurpassable! Here, you can live out the Stendhal syndrome for yourself. But, El Remedio is also a good name because, while you are there, you forget about all your concerns; so, it is a remedy for all ailments, albeit a temporary one.
While splendid when the sun shines, in a storm it must be spectacular. A gift on the eyes and the soul, bolstered by the cuisine of Samuel Fernández, attached to the land and sea seen from his restaurant. You must order the megano (a tiny squid done on the griddle) with potato in squid ink, scallop with boletus sauce and cured bellota ham (with a long, intense flavour), dried beans with field mushrooms, a finger-licking, long-simmered stew, fried bull’s tail with beetroot mustard and barbecue sauce. And, all this eaten while gazing out over the horizon. And dreaming away…
Average price: €40.
Goodness me – what gastronomic diversity! Why wait to relish it all? Check out our flights here.
Text and photos: Ferran Imedio (Gastronomistas.com)
more infoBowie & Sónar 2017
Apart from this conjunction in location and time, can an event like Sónar 2017, with the most advanced music proposals, be related to a figure who was able to capture and assimilate the essence of upcoming trends for nearly half a century like David Bowie. We believe that it can indeed. At My Vueling City we lay several bridges between the two and single out items in this year’s Sónar programme which embody the ever-restless spirit of “The Thin White Duke”.
Rebel Rebel
Bowie’s demeanour was always tinged with a heady potion of defiance against established values. He never settled in to any set aesthetic, as evinced in his constant regeneration – at every new release, he rebelled against the previous one, which accounts for his endless change of image.
The exhibition, David Bowie Is, opens at the Museu del Disseny de Barcelona on 25 May 2017. Produced by London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, it has already attracted over one and a half million visitors in the eight cities where it has been hosted so far, including London, Berlin, Paris and Chicago, making it the most visited exhibition in the 164 years since the inception of the V&A.
On display at the exhibition are over 300 objects, including photographs, record covers, handwritten letters, original costumes, stage designs and hitherto unseen material from Bowie’s concerts over the last five decades, on loan from the David Bowie Archive. David Bowie Is takes an in-depth look at the way David Bowie’s music and radical individualism have inspired others by defying conventions and seeking freedom of expression.
The Impact of Sound, and Sight Too
This year Barcelona is hosting two events related to music, and also to advanced thinking and the creative avant-garde. On the one hand, the largest exhibition ever dedicated to Bowie and, on the other, the world’s largest electronic music festival. We all know Bowie’s prowess in the musical sphere, in terms of his great ability to assimilate styles and his insatiable effervescence, which kept him constantly in touch with the latest trends until the end of his life. Indeed, the standard bearer of glam rock also flirted with more advanced genres, notably ambient music and drum and bass. Here then are some of the proposals in this year’s Sónar programme which we feel are imbued with Bowie’s spirit through and through.
Arca
Arca undoubtedly condenses the cryptic essence of Bowie’s final studio album.Blackstar and Arca speak the same language – both are solemn; both seem to know the afterlife. Of all the world’s festivals, Sónar was singled out by Arca, the unclassifiable musician and producer, for a live presentation of his newly released work which redefines him as an even more complex and evolved figure. This show will also feature the presence of and visuals by Jesse Kanda.
Moderat
Bowie moved to Berlin in the second half of the 1970s and there he became steeped in the high-calibre art and music scene. Those were the years of his collaboration with Brian Eno, during which he released the trilogy of Low, Heroes and Lodger. Moderat clearly dovetails to perfection into this pure Berlinese tradition – pop and electronic music with tunes in black and white. Moderat started out as a collaborative project between Gernot Bronsert and Sebastian Szary (Modeselektor) on the one hand, and Sacha Ring (Apparat) on the other. The idea was to work together whenever their respective projects left them enough spare time.
Nicolas Jaar
Bowie incorporated the new dance and experimental music trends in the 1990s, as evinced in such albums as Earthling and Outside, with a nod to drum and bass, electronic metal and even avant-garde jazz. Nicolas Jaar is a musician who merges seamlessly into that philosophy of musical defiance which cannot be stuffed into any specific stylistic straitjacket and also imparts a political or poetic message to his creations.
Phosphereby Daito Manabe
Music was Bowie’s great passion throughout his long career. He collaborated with the great stars of pop and rock, notably Queen, Lou Reed and Mick Jagger, and those of contemporary music such as Philip Glass, but that was not the only discipline he excelled at. He also collaborated with such top-notch artists as Tony Oursler. So, it can’t be ruled out that Bowie might have authored the background music to Phonosphere, by Daito Manabe, one of the most acclaimed digital artists in the world. This installation is an important step forward in new kinds of immersive creation and will be one of the highlights of Sónar+D 2017. This monumental structure is a robotic hybrid architecture in which synchronized mirrors, smoke machines, beams of light and up to 24 video projectors combine to create an unprecedented spatial experience, drawing from the world of new contemporary dance music, as well as the vocabulary of projection mapping.
Boris Chimp 504
Space Oddity was Bowie’s first big hit. The single was released at a time when humanity was in the grips of space exploration in the guise of journeys beyond the stratosphere. With his Multiverse, Boris Chimp 504 takes us back to that period. This audiovisual, real-time performance emphasises the relationship between audio synthesis and graphical language, with the story of the first ape to be sent to the moon in 1969 as the point of departure.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and score a luxury double in its most highly evolved aspect – Sónar – while looking back to the figure of The Thin White Duke at the exhibition, David Bowie Is.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Asturias in 10 Viewpoints
What better way to soak up the delights of the nature paradise that is Asturias than from its vantage points? Following is our selection of the ten best strategic points in the region affording the loveliest angles of that beautiful countryside. Take note!
1. La Regalina (Valdés)
Chosen by the Guía Repsol as “El Mejor Rincón de 2013” (The Best Spot of 2013), the hermitage of La Regalina in Cadavedo (Valdés) consists of the hermitage proper and two hórreos (a traditional granary raised on pillars). Here you can enjoy exceptional views of Ribeirona beach and the rest of the seaboard (designated a “Protected West Coast Landscape”) which you can photograph and share on social networks.
2. Cabo Vidio (Cudillero)
Located between Cudillero and Luarca, two picturesque fishing villages, lies Cape Vidio. This vantage points affords fabulous panoramic views of cliff faces, beaches and the sea, all of which come under the Protected West Coast Landscape designation. But, there’s more – at low tide you can see the Cueva de la Iglesiona, a sea cave carved out by the Cantabrian waves at the base of the cliff. It can be visited, as long as you do so in the company of a guide.
3. Mirador del Espíritu Santo (Muros del Nalón)
This lookout is part of the “ruta de los miradores” (route of the viewpoints), a 6-kilometre-long coastal path running from the former mining port of San Esteban de Pravia to Aguilar beach blessed with some spectacular panoramas. The viewpoint is reached after having passed San Esteban de Pravia and the access to the seawater pool on the banks of the river Nalón. One of its highlights is the view of the mouth of the Nalón, framed between the Playa de los Quebrantos and the Playón de Bayas.
4. Cape Peñas (Gozón)
Cape Peñas, located in Gozón (Protected Cape Peñas Landscape), in the northernmost area of Asturias, is one of the most popular spots in the region. Apart from hiking across the headland to soak up the excellent views of the cliffs, visitors can also drop in on the Centro de Recepción de Visitantes e Interpretación del Medio Marino de Peñas (Peñas Marine Environment Interpretation and Visitor Reception Centre), housed in the Peñas lighthouse.
5. Mirador de San Roque (Colunga)
The San Roque viewpoint is located In the vicinity of Lastres, the village where the popular Spanish television comedy drama, “Doctor Mateo”, was filmed. The vantage point affords magnificent panoramic vistas of a combination of sea and mountains, including the beaches of the so-called “Costa de los Dinosaurios” (Dinosaur Coast) – on account of the presence of fossilised dinosaur imprints – with the Sierra del Sueve and the Picos de Europa in the background. What more could you want?
6. Mirador del Fitu
Are you seeking a panoramic view combining both the Cantabrian Sea and the Picos de Europa? Then you should head for the Cruz de Llames pass, between Colunga and Arriondas, site of the Fitu observation platform with its characteristic concrete balcony. The views from here attest to the contrasting beauty of the Asturian landscape. And, while you’re at it, take a stroll towards Picu Pienzu where you can continue to enjoy the panoramic views.
7. Picos de Europa Viewpoints
The following viewpoints are sited in the Picos de Europa National Park. From there, you can observe the iconic Picu Urriellu, also known as Naranjo de Bulnes, in all its splendour, including the various nuances of colour it takes on at sunset. The viewpoints are Pozo de la Oración, in Poo de Cabrales; Pedro Udaondo, in Asiego, and Camarmeña, also in the municipality of Cabrales.
Other viewpoints worth seeking out in the Park are the ones near the Lagos de Covadonga, notably La Reina, Entrelagos and Ordiales. Any of these affords a sublime picture postcard view of the Picos de Europa.
8. Mirador de Torimbia (Llanes)
This viewpoint is on the so-called “Llanes de cine” route, which connects the various locations where films and television series have been shot. This lookout has an interesting touch – a director’s chair from which to contemplate the spectacular vistas. Located near Niembro, between the beaches of Torimbia and Toranda, a short walk from the lookout will lead you down to the Llanes beaches of San Antolín and Gulpiyuri.
9. Mirador del Picu (Ribadedeva)
Located on the eastern edge of Asturias is the Mirador del Picu, in Pimiango, with striking views of both the beautiful “Protected East Coast Landscape” and the Sierra del Cuera and Picos de Europa – Picu Uriellu is visible on a clear day from here. While you’re there, take the opportunity to visit El Pindal Cave, a World Heritage Site on account of its cave paintings, and then head for the hermitage of San Emeterio.
10. Urban Viewpoints
One way of viewing the cities of Asturias is from their vantage points. In Oviedo, be sure to head for the Mirador de Naranco, from where you can also visit two pre-Romanesque Asturian gems, Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, both World Heritage Sites. The best panoramic view of Avilés is from the Mirador de la Luz, where the city and estuary are the star sights. And, should you happen to be in Gijón, don’t miss out on the Cape San Lorenzo viewpoint, with a concrete silhouette resembling a ship’s keel from where you can see the town of Jovellanos and its beaches.
Text by Turismo Asturias
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