Santiago de Compostela, living heritage
By Adela Nieto Cerrada from callejeandoporelplaneta.com
Santiago de Compostela is a city that enchants pilgrims and travellers alike since, on arriving after your journey, its streets and squares start to come alive, bustling with life. After travelling hundreds of kilometres, some joyful, some painful, we finally get to rest in Plaza del Obradoiro square, having fulfilled our duty by visiting the Apostle who was anxiously waiting to welcome us in the cathedral. This is when, exhausted and excited, we begin our discovery of what lies in the city of Santiago with its hostels, restaurants and shops hidden away on side streets. Now we can start to soak up and experience the city's mix of tourism, student life and pilgrim destination.
Santiago de Compostela is home to major cultural heritage and even more important hidden gems that make it a unique city:
Plaza del Obradoiro square
A social and institutional symbol, it is not only the final stop on Saint James' Way but also where the different state powers are represented through the marvellous architectural combination. The imposing cathedral was begun in the 11th century in a Romanesque style but was later extended with Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance features including the Gloria Portico and the cloister. The Archbishop's Palace is a must-see, right next to the cathedral, with its different rooms, courtyards and vaults. The Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, the former pilgrim's hospice which, like the rest of the city, gradually transformed over time is today a National Parador Hotel. San Xerome College, a precursor to today's university, was originally built by Bishop Fonseca to house poor students. The Neoclassical-style Town Hall, the last building to be constructed in the square and enclose the space definitively, is home to the President's Office of the Galician Regional Government.
The University
Santiago de Compostela is inherently linked to pilgrims and students, both having transformed the city into an essential stop for any traveller. In turn, the history of the university is intimately linked to the city's history where, at the end of the 15th century, a small college was founded to provide language classes to children from poor backgrounds. The initiative was successful over the years and the facilities were extended until 1504 when Diego III de Muros won a papal bull to offer higher education courses. Since then, and for over 500 years, the USC has been a prestigious institution, renowned around the world. In addition to its undeniable academic excellence, it also populates the streets with students and 'Tuna' period music troupes.
The Old Town
The maze-like centre of Santiago overflows with life day and night: cobbled streets, historical buildings, aristocratic palaces, hidden monasteries, hostels for pilgrims, shops, restaurants, leisure spots, markets and bazaars all comprise the beating heart of a city that goes to bed in the early hours and rises with the first rays illuminating the Apostle. Aimlessly wandering the old town is akin to travelling back in time - close your eyes for a second and when you open them again, you soon realise that life continues as it has over the ages. Strolling the streets is a unique experience where we all end up finding our own special place and where a bustling routine has continued every day since mediaeval times.
The Vantage Points
Experiencing the real Santiago means wandering the streets although for one of the best views over the centre, you need to head beyond the walls of the old town towards one of the parks that surround the city. La Alameda Park is in the east end where the benches immortalise the best sunsets over the cathedral. Belvís Park is in the west, next to the Albergue del Seminario Menor hostel, and offers views over the old town in all its splendour. Mount Gaiás lies to the south and is home to the immense Galician City of Culture. One of the best vantage points in the centre is from the terrace at the Faculty of History and Geography, offering astounding panoramic views over the surrounding area of Santiago.
The Locals
The city's old town is a World Heritage Site although its true value lies in its local people who, over the years, have spread the city's renown across the globe. Originally farm labourers and dedicated to country life, the city's people have changed over time, opening shops, setting up businesses but always remaining modest folk, ready to help others without asking for anything in return. Throughout the ages, Santiago de Compostela has been the birthplace of illustrious figures such as the great poetess Rosalía de Castro, Archbishop Fonseca, a precursor in establishing the university, or the surgeon Gómez Ulla, Chair of the Professional Medical Association; nonetheless, it is the unknown locals who continue to be the true heart of the city and its best heritage.
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more infoThe Five Best Spots in Malasaña
Although recent years have seen the emergence of carefully crafted designer nightspots, the district still features a number of premium locales with a magnetic pull that makes them a meeting point de rigueur by night. The fact is that Malasaña, in the very heart of the capital, has always thronged with a broad array of leisure spaces. It peaked during the golden years of La Movida, when nightspots that triggered an epoch-making eighties’ scene started springing up along the calle Manuela Malasaña.
Here is a selection of five of the best places for having a drink in the old Maravillas quarter:
Madklyn
Hard by the Plaza 2 de Mayo square we find this musical haven with an aftertaste of times gone by. The Madklyn is not a particularly large space, so at night it can fill to bursting. Prominent is its glittering, silvery ceiling, which gives a nod to the metal of Brooklyn Bridge. The decor is retro, reminiscent of the golden age of bars with pinball machines. Saturdays see a special session at aperitif time. Gee! Don’t fail to try their bean tapas, the speciality of the house. And, don’t miss out on their “blackout” sessions delivered by the resident DJ, Mighty Caesar!
Picnic Bar
Picnic bar has been a hit for some time and this means that, every time you go there, it is like having to pick your way through a mass of dense marsh foliage. This is a meeting point for Madrid actors, comedians, musicians and hipsters. The service is excellent and their cocktails are among the best in town. It is distributed on two storeys – street level and basement – both of which have warm lighting and vintage decor, with red dominant. A classic feature is their fabulous armchairs, ideal for enjoying a comfortable chat.
1862 Dry Bar
This locale has just won the FIBAR award as Best Bar of 2014, and it is certainly one of the most exquisite spaces in the district. They specialise in classic cocktails, but also strike out into more contemporary offerings. Set on two floors, the main one, at street level, has very high ceilings and a well-balanced decor with touches of Art Deco, with the emphasis on the wine rack, of course. On the lower floor they have created a cosier atmosphere, with comfortable burgundy-coloured couches and a warmer lighting. It resembles a small boîte, with its own bar counter. One striking note is the caged and highly visible wine cellar, with an air resembling that of an old sailing vessel.
Juanita Banana
At number 3 Calle Estrella lies another of the must-see places in Malasaña. This is Juanita Banana, which belongs to the same group as Fabuloso, Coconot and Exótica. In common with these, its decor harks back to the nascent days of late-fifties rock, B movies and some of the clichés from early pop culture. The nice thing about this bar is that you can order apincho while you’re sipping at a cocktail. Or, if you prefer, you can taste a shake. They are really delicious!
Costello Club
Costello Club is unquestionably one of the most emblematic saloons in Malasaña. Reliable sources claim that this is the unofficial bar and dance-hall of the music industry – if you play in a band, you have to perform here if you want to get anywhere. Its siting, right near the Gran Vía metro stop, is also very handy. The lower floor, which houses the Costello Dance Floor, usually hosts good concerts and performances. Celebrities such as Vetusta Morla, Russian Red, Last Shadow Puppets, DePedro, Tequila, Amaral, Nada Surf, Quique González and many others have graced its premises. The upper floor consists of the Costello Gold Lounge and the private Chill Garden, where the privileged can listen to jazz, pop, bunge, downtempo and bossa nova.
Getting Your Strength Back
After many a drink, you are advised to stop off on your itinerary to replenish your energy. Here are two terrific recommendations. During the day, drop in on Naif, at number 16 Calle San Joaquín. This lively spot has an ambience that grows as the day marches on, adapting to the rhythm of the neighbourhood. Here there is no dearth of coffee, cakes and pastries for afternoon tea, and drinks and cocktails for the evening. The service is exquisite. Their salads and hamburgers are highly recommended and wonderfully priced. With the onset of spring, it is worth choosing a table outside in the Plaza de San Ildefonso. The atmosphere at weekends is spectacular and lasts practically until closing time, at 2.30 a.m. For dinner, make sure you head for Home Burger Bar, one of the city’s hamburger cathedrals. In effect, it was cited among the 50 best hamburger bars in the world in December last year.
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Text & images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoAlternative Prague
On account of its historic legacy, Prague is a jewel sculpted by the passage of time and one of the leading tourist destinations. If you happen to be in the capital of the Czech Republic, you are bound to visit its popular castle, cross the well-known Charles Bridge and have a revitalising Pilsner in any of the city’s myriad beer halls. But, when you are done with the typical tour for flip-flop and sock-wearing guiris, set off to explore the Prague which Czechs usually keep to themselves. This is the city, as fascinating as it is alternative, which we reveal in the following.
David Černý
David Černý has turned Prague into his own huge museum. A St Wenceslas on an upside-down horse, a statue of two men peeing facing each other, Freud hanging from a building, babies transformed into machines… These are but some of the works which the most widely acclaimed yet corrosive and controversial contemporary Czech artist has strewn about the streets, avenues and public spaces of the Czech capital.
DOX
DOX is housed in a refurbished building in the working class suburb of Holešovice. Inaugurated in 2008, Prague’s contemporary art centre boasts the largest collection of modern works in the country. This is a must-visit venue for all art lovers. We recommend you end the visit by making a foray into their interesting shop – their café is nothing to scoff at either.
The Dancing House
Originally known as Fred and Ginger, in honour of the famous dancing couple, it was eventually named The Dancing House. This construction with its fascinating curved forms is highly conspicuous in a city celebrated for its centuries-old buildings. It was designed by Frank Gehry, the architect behind Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum, who executed the project in collaboration with the Croatian-Czech architect, Vlado Milunić.
Malá Strana
The Malá Strana district is a refuge for the inhabitants of Prague when inundated by droves of tourists. A backwater of calm and quiet in the heart of the city, it is bounded by several green areas, notably Kampa Island. The latter is separated from Malá Strana by a channel popularly known as the Devil’s Stream and its basks in bucolic beauty all year around. It is the ideal spot to get away from it all and to enjoy a stint of reading while sipping a coffee in one of the inviting cafés secreted along its streets.
Náplavka
This spot in the south of Prague’s Old Town, on the right bank of the river Moldava, was once the major meeting place of hippies. It has now become the focal point of hipster Prague. The area has a thriving art and culture scene and the best time to visit is on Saturdays, when the so-called Farmer’s Market is held from ten in the morning until nine in the evening. It is devoted to regional farm products, with stalls selling organic produce, craft beer and street food. You are likely to even gobble up the paper serviettes (recycled ones, of course).
Cubist Prague
When it comes to Cubist art, what normally springs to mind are works by such figures as Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Jean Metzinger and Juan Gris. And, if we push it a little further, the sculptures of Alexander Archipenko, Jacques Lipchitz and Henri Laurens, and the literary experiments of Guillaume Apollinaire. However, we hardly ever think of Cubism as applied to architecture which had in Prague once of its paramount expressions, thanks to the architectural trio made up of Josef Chochol, Pavel Janák and Josef Gočár. Visitors can delight in a number of their constructions around the city, but you should make a special point of seeing the building which epitomises the movement, Gočár’s House of the Black Madonna. Located on the corner of Celetná Street and Ovocný Square in the heart of Prague, it now houses the Czech Museum of Cubism.
SoNa
Wallpaper Magazine rated it one of the classiest districts in the world. Indeed, SoNa (short for “South of Národní”) is worthy of that distinction, what with its winding streets, cafés bustling with lively folk and exotic restaurants where you can sink your teeth into specialities from some of the remotest spots on earth. And, if you feel like doing some shopping, wander down Karoliny Svetle, where you will come across the stores of the most avant-garde local designers.
Vyšehrad
No alternative guidebook to Prague would leave out a visit to Vyšehrad, the Czech capital’s “other castle”. Rather than a castle, it is actually a ruined fort. Apart from interest in the landmark itself, Vyšehrad affords some of the finest views of Prague and the river Moldava.
The Alternative Tour
If you’re keen on delving further into alternative Prague, you can get help from Prague Alternative Tours. They will take you through the flip side of the Czech capital, past the walls displaying the city’s most amazing street art and to the flashiest clubs. They will also get you into the most innovative contemporary art galleries, and community centres where you can meet the most promising young local creators.
Book your Vueling to Prague and gear up to discover the alternative side of the Czech capital.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez
Images by Nan Palmero, Marmontel, Jose Mesa, Achim Hepp
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Curiosities in Malaga
1- El Caminito del Rey (King’s little road)
Known by fans of extreme sports for being one of the most dangerous roads in the world . It is a 3-kilometer pedestrian walkway with sections just 1 meter wide that gets to hang up to 100 meters above the river and is located between the villages of Alora and Ardales. King Alfonso XIII had to cross it in 1921 to inaugurate the prey to Conde del Guadalhorce, hence the name.
2- Júzcar. El Pueblo Pitufo (Júzcar. Smurf’s Village)
Only from that grace so typical of Malaga can be understood that an idea like this was born. Taking advantage of the promotion of Smurfs 3D movie , the village was painted blue and, after a popular consultation, it was agreed to extend the painting of the facades. The town of Juzcar became the first Smurf Village in the World on June 16, 2011. Thanks to the original proposal, it has become a leading destination for family holidays.
3- El Castillo de Colomares
This strange construction, which pays tribute to Columbus and the Discovery of America, is located in Benalmadena and is a compendium of architectural styles as diverse as Moorish, Romanesque and Gothic, that give the monument an air somewhat bizarre .
On the inside you can visit which is considered by the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest chapel in the world , with just 1’96 square meters. On the few occasions on which Mass is celebrated in the chapel, Christian believers should listen from outside.
4- Frigiliana
Of Frigiliana is said to be one of the most beautiful and best preserved villages in Spain . With just 3,000 inhabitants, is situated in the eastern part of Malaga’s province, between the Sierra de Almijara and the Mediterranean Sea. Its streets of medieval-Moorish style’s architecture and its old town has been awarded prizes such as the Improvement and Embellishment of Towns of the Province, the Beautification of the people of Spain or the First Prize of National Award Competition improvement and Embellishment of Towns of Andalusia.
5- Santa Teresa de Jesús’s incorrupt hand
There is another curiosity in the beautiful town of Ronda. Its Iglesia de la Merced maintains what they callSanta Teresa de Jesus’s incorrupt hand. About ten months after the saint’s death , in 1582, her remains were exhumed, and the Catholic Church claims that her body was found incorrupt. Now this relic has being protected by a gilded silver glove embedded with precious stones.
6- La Casa de los Navajas (Navajas House)
Facing the beach El Bajondillo in Torremolinos, this beautiful Neomudejar style building has survived property speculation. The simple fact of surviving Costa del Sol’s fierce land speculation, is in itself something extraordinary. It is also one of the most beautiful and emblematic places with interior decor inspired by the Alhambra in Granada. The house was declared a Historic Landmark by the Department of Culture of the Junta de Andalucía in 1991.
7.- How to order a coffee in Málaga
This video comes to be a useful guide in how to order coffee in Malaga, with the measurements invented by the Central Cafe Malaga. There are 10 different ways to ask for it and many visitors might wonder where their nomenclature comes. Began in 1954 in postwar times, when coffee was more expensive. The owner of the Café Central, José Crespo Prado had to choose between throwing coffee or do another again, to suit all tastes. To avoid wasting coffee, identified 10 possible amounts of coffee and named them, so you always have a measure that would suit your tastes.
8- Málaga, cinema city
Finally, some interesting facts related to the movies. For example, the final scene of the movie “Milennium. Men Who Hate Women”, in which Lisbeth leave the car with a briefcase, was shot in the Malagueta beach, on the Paseo Marítimo Pablo Picasso. Apparently, this area showed perfectly the idea that its director, Niels Arden Oplev, was to represent the Cayman Islands.
In Málaga, movies like Michelangelo Antonioni’s The Passenger , starring Jack Nicholson and Maria Schneider, Jacques Feyder’s Carmen that starred Raquel Meller or San Luis Rey’s Bridge , starring Robert Of Niro and Geraldine Chaplin
The most common scenario for shooting was Finca de la Concepción because of the lush botanical garden that reminds exotic countries such as Cuba, the Philippines and India. Here was filmed, for example, The latest of the Philippines or the Adventures of Barber of Seville.
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