Touring the French Riviera With Matisse
The French Riviera was a sanctuary and source of inspiration for many artists in the first half of the 20th century. Seduced by its light, and also its good climate and the magic of the Mediterranean, they succumbed to its charm. One of these was Henri Matisse, who arrived in Nice in 1917 seeking a cure for his bronchitis and remained there until his death in 1954. It was in Nice that he found the peace of mind and the light that would accompany him throughout his mature art period. He also used to visit other artists in the area who, like him, had moved their studio to this spot on the calm waters of the Mediterranean, whether in Nice itself or in neighbouring villages. Here, then, is a tour which retraces the footsteps of that fantastic artist of the Côte d’Azur.
Nice
Roman in origin and the region’s nerve centre, you would be hard pressed not to be enthralled by the charms of Nice. It is a pleasure in itself to just stroll along the streets in the old quarter in search of the Cours Saleya, a bustling square and site of both the popular flower market and the fruit and vegetable market. If you also take the chance to taste some of the local culinary specialities in one of the magnificent eateries in the area, a rewarding experience is guaranteed. Above all, make sure you try socca, a grilled chickpea-flour pasty, the perfect snack for a long sightseeing day.
The Promenade des Anglais is another of Nice’s popular landmarks. This elegant seaside promenade with its stylish period hotels and iconic palm trees inevitably transports you to a bygone era, a time when the first tourists started to frequent the city.
Matisse eventually took up permanent residence and set up his studio in the classy, aristocratic Cimiez Quarter after trying out other areas in the city. This quarter is home to the Matisse Museum, housed in a 17th-century villa, where visitors can delight in the artworks donated to the city by both Matisse himself and his heirs. Nearby is the Hotel Regina, where he actually lived during much of his stay in Nice. And, not far from there is the spot where he was buried, the cemetery of the Monastery Of Our Lady Of Cimiez.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
This medieval village overlooking the Mediterranean is possibly one of the most picturesque in France, with the permission of Mont Saint Michel and Vézelay. Perched on a hilltop and ringed by a fortified wall, it preserves all the charm of the period when it was built. When strolling through its streets lined with old stone houses, it becomes clear how Matisse must have been captivated by its magic. But, he was not alone in falling prey to its allure, as so too did Picasso, Chagall, Renoir, Miró, Yves Montand and Cocteau. The passage of so many artists through the village led to a good number of art galleries springing up in its narrow streets. The finishing touch to any visit here is provided by the Maeght Foundation which houses one of the finest collections of 20th-century art, that of Marguerite and Aimé Maeght. The building, which was designed by the Spanish architect, Josep Lluís Sert, houses works by Pierre Bonnard, Henri Matisse, Georges Braque, Fernand Léger, Alberto Giacometti, Marc Chagall, Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, Wassily Kandinsky and Raoul Ubac, among others.
Vence
Matisse arrived in Vence in 1941, during one of the worst moments of World War II. Apart from sanctuary, he was seeking a place to heal, as he was ill. It was here that he found the right spot to recuperate, as well as inspiration. His stay in this small town yielded the creation of the Chapel of the Rosary, also known as the “Matisse Chapel”, where the artist once stated: “Despite all its imperfections, I regard this as my masterpiece”. Here, Matisse took charge of the whole project as he designed the building, the stained glass windows, the wall decoration, the furniture and even the liturgical accoutrements.
Cagnes-sur-Mer
Auguste Renoir spent the last few years of his life in this coastal town. He settled in the villa known as Les Collettes, now converted into the Renoir Museum, where Matisse visited him on several occasions and learned from the Impressionist master how to perceive the colours of the “Midi”. Among the standout features of this small town on the French Riviera is Haut-de-Cagnes, a quarter listed as a historic interest site, where the most prominent landmark is Grimaldi Castle.
As Matisse said: “Most people come here for the light. Being from the north, what attracted me were the radiant colours and the luminosity of daylight”. Now it’s your turn to discover it, so get your Vueling and let yourself be inspired.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Irene Grassi, r.g-s, m-louis .®, piet theisohn, Jumilla
more info
Hipstermania in London
In effect, whatever’s hipster today becomes a trend tomorrow. Or at least that’s how it’s been so far. This alternative craze is spreading so fast is risks going mainstream, becoming a mass, commercial phenomenon. But, for as long as it endures, they’re still calling the shots. In London districts such as Hackney you can see larger communities of long-bearded – but well-groomed – men wearing lumberjack plaid jackets and vintage hairstyles than in other districts in the city. Here are some of their currently favourite haunts. Be warned – some of them feature new forms of leisure!
F. Cooke / Peters & Co. Gin Palace
At no. 9 Broadway Market in Hackney we find a bar that seems to have emerged from days long gone. During the day, F. Cooke serve pies, eel and delicatessen galore, many dishes based on recipes over a century old. By night, the locale concept transforms completely. In fact, its name changes to Peters & Co. Gin Palace, as it turns into a veritable gin palace, like those that existed in London in Victorian times. You can savour this marvellous elixir by choosing from over twenty brands on their list.
Nights of Drink and Draw – On the Cutting Edge
Londoners are well aware that the best way to be a good hipster is to be an aesthetics and leisure innovator. A trend that has become popular lately involves combining drink and drawing. These are the so-called Drink and Drawspots, where you paint or draw in the company of other art enthusiasts, artists or just amateurs eager to have some fun. The fad hails from the arty Brooklyn district where people meet at specific local nightspots to have a drink while they scribble away.
These gatherings are usually chaired by an art teacher, who decides on the various poses (about 6) adopted by a model. After a 45-minute session of drawing and painting, there is a break to have a drink and chat with the other participants. This is the ideal moment to socialise. Then follows another painting session. At the end, the teacher critiques the artworks with the whole class. The session typically lasts about 3 hours and costs £18, which includes a drink. The places where you can drink and draw are:
Doodle-le-do, led by Natalia Talkowska, holds regular gatherings in London, Dublin, Poland and Holland. People come to meet, chat, draw, eat sandwiches and drink. Ditto Press, however, offers classes soused in home-brewed beer. Their bent is illustration and printing, which is hosted in their studio on Benyon Road, N1. Drink, Shop, Do, for its part, is a bar, pastry shop and craft workshop at King’s Cross where afternoon tea is set against craftwork classes. Doodle Bar, in Battersea, and The Book Club, in Shoreditch, both stage drawing events on their premises. Lastly, The Idler Academy offers art classes while savouring gin-tonics based on Hendricks.
Netil Market
For over four years it has opened on Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on premises at nearby Westgate Street. It comprises a cluster of craft shops, bric-a-brac and barbershops and, of course, food stalls. Clearly the perfect spot for pro hipsters. The market belongs to Netil House, a creative community based on Westgate Street. The terrace cafe affords panoramic views of the whole city. The atmosphere becomes vibrant from spring onwards.
One faction of hipsters are advocating rural life in the heart of the city. No wonder, then, that you can find pastry shops offering homemade cakes. Yeast Bakery, also in the market, provides Breton butter-bakes made in a wood-fired oven. At Brawn (open Tuesday to Saturday) you can taste an endless array of organic wines, while at Jones Diary you can buy all kinds of homemade cheeses, and Lee’s Seafood specialises in fried fish.
At nightfall, where better to go than Mare Street. There, Cock Tavern has become all the rage. This pub specialises in home-brewed beer and was last year named Beard Friendly Pub of the Year, a title awarded by the Beard Liberation Front, a group which campaigns in support of beards. You can also sip a coffee while your bicycle gets a looking over at Look Mum No Hands! Now for a secret which only a few people know about – the supper clubs, a number of restaurants half-concealed inside other establishments. Also in this area is Printers & Stationers, housed in a warehouse area at the back of a would-be print shop on Ezra Street.
We shall tell no more – no point in revealing all the secrets at once. So, hurry before these fabulous spots go out of fashion or get overrun. Check out our prices here!
Text by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Image by Printers & Stationers, Ben Brannan, Thomas Wootton
more info7 must in Budapest
Recently landed in Budapest, the Pearl of the Danube, we enter one of the most romantic cities of Eastern Europe with countless opportunities to enjoy our stay. If you’re asking yourself where to start, we have 7 essential sights to see during your visit:
1.- Admire the most emblematic monuments
The stunning Hungarian capital is full of important monuments that you cannot miss.
The worlds third largest Parliament, a symbolic landmark of Budapest rises imposingly on Kossuth Sqaure, boasting a neo-Gothic style. The latter, together with the Buda Castle, an old residence of the kings of Hungary and Budapest’s oldest Chain Bridge define the personality of this city, which was indeed a major power during the Austro Hungarian Empire.
2.- Discover the Art Noveau
Budapest is known for its numerous examples of art noveau architecture, a slightly peculiar style that intertwines elements of nature, asymmetrical shapes and sinuous curves, which decorate the facades of the buildings in the streets. The architectural merit of such exaltation is largely attributable to Ödön Lechner, also known as the “Hungarian Gaudí”, whose most famous work corresponds to the Royal Postal Savings Bank, which is full of floral patterns, colourful mosaics and some components of popular culture. Villa Balázs Sipeky and the Institute of Geology are other notable samples of the work of this brilliant architect. Our favourite example of art noveau is Walkó House, because of its facade, decorated with eight different varieties of animals.
3.- Relax your body in the Széchenyi Baths
Budapest has numerous thermal spas and baths for whenever you want to take a day of rest and revitalization after a long walk around the city. Széchenyi is the most majestic and largest spa in Europe, with fifteen indoor pools, ten saunas and steam rooms and three large outdoor swimming pools. It is common to see locals enjoying the spas, as they are a nice meeting point to chat.
4.- Go for a drink to the Bars of the ruins
If you want to immerse yourself in the most modern and happening Hungarian underground scene, you cannot escape from Budapest without going to one of these bars, which are located in old buildings, with a slightly worn out and decadent look but decorated in such a way that the vintage kitch look makes them very special. The best atmosphere in the city is definitely found in these bars, which are decorated with all kinds of Antique furniture, extravagant paintings and curious objects. We recommend the legendary Szimpla Kert Kazincy Street; the Instant bar, decorated like the wild west movies or the chaotic Púder, where there are also theatre performances and dj sets at night.
5.- Visit the Muvesz Mozi Cinema
Budapest is known for its rich film culture, so it is definitely worth stopping by to visit one of their alternative cinemas. Intellectuals and big screen lovers residing in the capital visit Muvesz Mozi, where they show a large variety of movies- from old films that where made five years ago to recent independent films made by new and upcoming directors. In addition, this special cinema has a very cool café, decorated with different atmospheres to fit the different spaces, making you feel like a traveller through time and space.
6.- Visit the Sziklakorhaz museum, a hospital and secret bunker
This spectacular museum housed in what was once a hospital adjacent to a nuclear bunker in Budapest during World War II shows, in an extremely real and almost scary way, what was once experienced within these underground walls. The various facilities and rooms for the wounded, wax mannequins, medical devices and even the possibility to activate the emergency alarm at the end of the tunnel give you an idea of what happened, even if it mean getting goose bumps!
7.- Try the cuisine
The Central Market is one of the greatest culinary references in the city, where you can taste the typical traditional goulash or buy fresh groceries to cook at home. Kosher sweets are also a Hungarian specialty, we recommend the ones at Cukrászda Fröhlich. Last but not least, you must try the bread and butter with paprika and onion, which is served at any bar or restaurant. If you like spicy food, Budapest is the perfect place for your palate.
Why not take a trip to Budapest? Have a look at our flights here!
Picture by teofilo
more infoDürer’s Nuremberg
Albrecht Dürer’s “The praying hands” and “Young hare” are some of the most widely reproduced works in art history. But, would this great artist have liked his work to be engraved on chocolate bars or Christmas decorations? Probably not, as his paintings are featured in the most important art museums in the world. If you look close enough, some spots in the city of Nuremberg reveal traces of Albrecht Dürer.
The Artist in His Workshop
Albrecht Dürer was born on 21 May 1471 in Nuremberg and died on 6 April 1528. He is buried in Nuremberg’s Johannisfriedhof. His father, Albrecht Dürer the Elder, moved to this city from Hungary in 1455 and married the daughter of a goldsmith. Of his 19 children, only 3 males survived, all without issue.
His first self-portrait was painted in 1484 while training in his father’s goldsmithery. It is still preserved today. Since Albrecht Dürer intended to become a painter after training as a goldsmith, his father sent him to the workshop of the painter, Michael Wolgemut, between 1486 and 1490. There he learned painting, wood carving and metal engraving.
His training took him to Basel in 1492 and to Strasbourg in 1494, among other places, where he made a living by selling books. In 1494, Albrecht Dürer received a dowry of 200 florins after marrying Agnes Frey, the daughter of a Nuremberg goldsmith. This led Albrecht to open his first painting workshop. Thanks to his mother-in-law’s relatives, he was able to come into contact with the city's upper class.
A Medieval and Renaissance Man
Living in the early Renaissance led Albrecht Dürer to strive for perfection through the technological advances of the time. He was a multifaceted genius who, in addition to painting, also explored other genres such as drawing or art theory. Noteworthy are his studies of proportion, geometry and design. Here is a review of his legacy in the city of Nuremberg.
First, some of his works are exhibited at the German National Museum (Germanisches Nationalmuseum), one of the world’s most important research centres for Albrecht Dürer. This museum also features exhibits of German culture from pre-history to the 20th century, the most notable of its kind in the country. Their permanent exhibition includes works by German painters and sculptors, as well as sections on archaeology, weapons and armour, musical and scientific instruments, and even toys. This museum also features Dürer’s “Hercules kills the Stymphalian Birds”. However, if you would like to discover the painter in his everyday and creative life, nothing better than visiting his own house. Dürer lived and worked in the Albrecht-Dürer-Haus from 1509 until his death in 1528. After a multimedia performance you can follow the audio guide tour of this 4-storey house, narrated by “Agnes”, Dürer’s wife. The highlights of this visit are the interactive demonstrations of his recreated workshop, a print store on the 3rd floor, and a gallery with his originals and reproductions in the attic.
Some 150 metres down the street, a monument dedicated to the artist – the Albrecht Dürer Monument –stands in the Albrecht-Dürer-Platz. Interestingly, the Felsengänge lies beneath this monument. This is a 14th-century underground labyrinth with four levels that used to house a brewery and a wine cellar. It was used as an air-raid shelter during World War II. You can visit this maze by going to the beer store on Burgstrasse 19.
Dürer’s Everyday Life Revisited
A good way of getting to know Dürer’s life in Nuremberg is by visiting the Stadtmuseum Fembohaus. This museum, which gives a comprehensive overview of the city’s history, features the restored rooms of a 16th-century merchant’s house. For taverns and eateries, look no further than Goldenes Posthorn. After going through its heavy copper door, you will find yourself in a gastronomic paradise that has been feeding Nuremberg citizens since 1498. Here you will find great local sausages, as well as many other country dishes – hard to find in other places – in addition to vegetarian options. Another tavern from those times is Marientorzwinger. This is Nuremberg’s last zwinger – a tavern built within the walls of old military quarters. This is a picturesque establishment offering wholesome Franconian produce, in addition to simple vegetable dishes. You can choose between their unpretentious dining room and the luxurious terrace. To drink, nothing better than a Tucher beer from Fürth.
To stay the night, we recommend the Dürer-Hotel, a four-star establishment located in the historic centre, right next to the Imperial Castle. Its bedrooms and lounges are uniquely decorated, perfectly combining tradition and modernity – after Albrecht Dürer’s perfectionist spirit. Oh, and, their cuisine is spectacular, with breakfasts that include confectionery, cold meats and local cheeses. Their products are high quality and organically produced in the region.
Dürer is synonymous with Nuremberg. Come and discover the city of this emblematic Renaissance artist. Remember, you can visit any time of the year. However, if you do so in spring or summer, the weather will likely be better, and you’ll be able to enjoy the old city’s splendid terrace cafés. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación, Tourismus Nuernberg
more info