Copious meals at Picos de Europa

It’s not a secret that Picos de Europa is a great place to eat. Only in the area of Cabrales, over 40 types of cheese are prepared, being the region in Europe with a greater variety.

It was clear that, before we feast on great food, we needed to make some kind of effort, first. The most common route to follow in the area is at Cares, uphill at the beginning but nice and relaxed the rest of the way. Is almost like a baptism to trekking, much frequented on the weekends.

We opt to follow the route from Poncebos to Bulnes, an uphill and amusing where we meet mountain goats several times. Bulnes is a small village, the only place in Asturias that is not accessible by car. There are many houses here but most of them are bars, inns and restaurants where you can eat very well. We tried delicious fabes and other specialties from the province, like a pot of octopus and potatoes, the small chorizos with cider and the scorpion fish cake.

Trying the best fabada in the world (and a great cachopo)

By chance, right next to the hotel where we were staying in Villaviciosa there is Bedriñana cider bar, which was awarded in 2014 for the ‘best fabada in the world’. That is something very remarkable in Asturias!

The fabada, obviously, was delicious and, to top it off, as a second course we ordered a cachopo to share. Cachopo (or cachopu) is a very typical dish from Asturian cuisine, only suitable to resistant stomachs. It is made of two veal filets that can be filled with cheese, ham or other ingredients. Furthermore, wine plus a side dish of potatoes, pepper and mushrooms. The two of us couldn’t even finish the half of the dish.

Then is when we realised that you have to be very careful when you order a dish. If an Asturian waiter tells you that you’re not ordering enough, be prepared. A big feeding feast is awaiting you.

For the great seafood, go to Tazones

Close to Villaviciosa, Tazones has the essence of a fishermen town, with pretty cobblestone streets and low-lying houses with colourful balconies, and is the place to go to eat great seafood and fish. The choices and quality are immense, any of the restaurants in town is provided by local fisheries.

Delicious cocktails in Gijón

We took advantage of a quick visit to Gijón to try some cocktails at one of the most frequented places in town. Its name is Varsovia and can be located by San Lorenzo avenue, exactly at Cabrales, 18, in an iconic historical building with an interior of eclectic decoration and a great variety of furniture, from Chester sofas to old wooden furniture. The large windows provide the best views over Gijón beach.

The menu includes a great variety of cocktails, provided in an unbeatable atmosphere and with a great music selection to enjoy.

The cider: customs & practices

A different matter is cider, the Asturian drink by excellence, and how it must be served. Cider in Asturias usually costs no more than 3€ each bottle, with a dark green colour and usually purchased to be shared. It has low alcohol content so you can order many and still remain not too much drunk.

The technique to pour cider usually leads to funny moments, especially among beginners who waste more cider than what is served. It is necessary to pour the cider right in the border of the glass, to enhance the flavour and smell when it mixes with the oxygen from the glass. When the cider is served you should ask ¿quién bebe? (“who drinks?”) and the glass must be empty in one sip or two, not more. It can be considered impolite to keep the cider for too long in the glass, because it loses the properties.

If you are not good at pouring cider, you better ask the waiter to serve you a “culín” or “culete”. If you dare to pour it yourself, you should know that the stream should be as high as possible and break right at the border of the glass. You don’t want to shower the rest of the diners.

Why not take a trip to Asturias? Have a look at our flights here!

We have all heard about Jack The Ripper, surely the first media serial killer in history. His dark legacy has been an inexhaustible source of narrative material for over a century. Those mournful events have spawned both literary marvels and graphic novels such as From Hell, by Alan Moore and Eddie Campbell, in addition to movies and TV series and even the odd opera. There may be a dose of morbidity involved in the interest aroused by anything relating to the subject. However, what stokes the flames is undoubtedly the fact that the perpetrator of those crimes has never been found, sparking a host of theories on the matter.

While the identity of the culprit remains unclear, what is known is the names of his victims and the spots where their bodies were found. Theme tours are based in Whitechapel, the scene of those atrocities. In the late-19th century, the district was a veritable hotbed of crooks and a limitless breeding ground for venereal diseases. Fortunately, it is now a salutary area and one of the major arty districts in London, with the Whitechapel Art Gallery at the forefront. In fact, it has become a must for day trippers, thanks to its second-hand market, which runs up to the Whitechapel Market, where you can pick up bargains from Monday to Saturday in over 80 street stalls, selling anything from fruit to electronics, rugs and jewellery. It is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The Dark Route

Regarding the question, Who was Jack the Ripper?, you probably won’t find out after a tour of the area, but you will get an idea of what it was like there in the year 1888, when the deeds took place. Various tours can be joined in Whitechapel. Following are details of some of the areas you will visit if you dare to relive the horrific story.

Osborn Street

This is where the first body of the two under investigation was found, although it wasn’t among the “canonical five” – of all the cases related to the Ripper, five are considered to be canonical, as they have several traits in common. The victim in question was Emma Elizabeth Smith, a prostitute who was attacked and raped in the street on 3 April 1888. She was found dead, with her ears cut off. Currently sited on this street is one of the most fashionable basement spaces in London, Apples and Pears, a designer bar with Japanese decor which is a cocktail bar by day, and a club by night. It has been graced by the likes of Kate Moss and David Beckham.

The Old Truman Brewery

This is where the second victim, Annie Chapman, was found. Over the last fifteen years, the 10 acres of derelict buildings from the former Truman Brewery have been refurbished as offices, retail outlets and venues for leisure and events, as well as art hatcheries. It is now a thriving complex of creative businesses, independent stores, malls, markets, bars and restaurants. At weekends it becomes the nerve centre of flea markets and tapas bars. Business and leisure combine to perfection here.

Durward Street (formerly Buck’s Row)

This is where the body of the 43-year-old Mary Ann Nichols – the first of the canonical five – turned up. The bodies of these women had their throats slit and presented mutilations on the abdomen and genital area, with facial disfigurement or a missing organ. Such was the modus operandi of the macabre butcher.

Mitre Square

On 30 September 1888, the body of Catherine Eddowes, aged 46, was found. She had a slashed throat and a large, deep wound on the abdomen. Her left kidney was missing. The police found part of her bloodied apron at the entrance to a house on Goulston Street. Also murdered on the same day at Dutfield’s Yard – now Henriques Street – was the 44-year-old Elizabeth Strice. Death was caused by an incision on the left side of the throat, which severed her carotid artery. A postcard was received by the Central News Agency by the alleged culprit, who claimed responsibility for the crime.

The Ten Bells Pub

Jack the Ripper and some of his victims are thought to have frequented various pubs in the area, notably The Ten Bells (84 Commercial Street), which has remained open on the same premises since 1752. It lies just a few yards from the Liverpool Street Underground station.

And Also…

Other landmarks you will see include Tower Hill Underground Station, the place chosen by Scotland Yard and the City of London Police to start their beat in search of the culprit, and St Botolph’s Church, a favoured haunt where the prostitutes of the time touted for customers. More information about the tour.

Whitechapel now stands for an alternative setting in the heart of the city. It is both classical and avant-garde, an area with a large number of mosques and such historic buildings as the Royal London Hospital. We urge you to come and discover it, even if you’re not particularly interested in Jack the Ripper. It’s a good opportunity to explore the streets of London’s famous East End, a charismatic district full of history and stories, like the one about the celebrated “elephant man”, as well as the Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane street markets andthe world famous Brick Lane, a street with a marked Asian presence, full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, at really affordable prices. (There are menus for six pounds which include two or three dishes to choose from, plus rice and a drink.)

Why wait to discover it all? Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Karlín is Prague’s emerging quarter. However, it had a rather lacklustre past, as it was one of the city’s industrial districts in the 19th century. A network of grid-pattern streets were built during that period, as well as a central square and a picturesque church. Countless factories of all types were erected alongside late-classical-style buildings with typical bay windows. One of the standout landmarks from those times is the Negrelli Viaduct, a bridge linking two important railway stations on either side of a river. The 1960s saw the construction of one of the first areas of reinforced concrete-slab buildings, as well as a hotel of dubious taste – the Olympik – just when Prague was a hot candidate to host the Olympic Games. The city’s first metro line, built in 1974, had its terminus in Karlín, in the station called Florenc.

The Karlín district features some stunning contemporary buildings. A clear example of this is the Corso complex, made up of Corso I, Corso II and Corso III, a renovation and reconstruction project designed by Ricardo Bofill. Another noteworthy project in the district is River City Prague, made up of the buildings Danube House, Nile House, Amazon Court and River Diamond. We were impressed by the Keystone office building for its references to Cubism, a style that made its mark in the Czech Republic a century ago. However, the dominant landmark in Karlín’s skyline is the Main Point Karlín office building which in 2012 was designated the most sustainable office building in the world. This unusual construction also boasts a terrace-garden open all year around which affords striking views of Prague’s historic city.

Cafés, Bistros & Restaurants in Karlín

Karlín sustained serious damage on account of flooding in 2002. Reclamation work took a year to complete before the area returned to normal. The flood repairs were used as a pretext to restore some of the district’s standout buildings and to embark on an intensive housing building scheme, which in turn spawned a host of new bars and restaurants that are now must-visit venues on a sightseeing tour of Prague. Be sure to visit Lyckovo Namesti Square and its surrounding area.

The area has been largely taken over by new businesses related to the hospitality sector in recent years. To guide you through the intricate web of venues, we have short-listed the following:

Muj Salek Kavy

The forte of this establishment is undoubtedly its coffee, which is very well made. The interior is cosy. You can take a breather and catch up on your networking here. If you’re feeling peckish, we can recommend the yoghurt with fruit and muesli.

Kafé Karlin

Said to be the most authentic café in Prague. They also offer coffee tasting sessions. Watch out, though, as the small premises fill up quick. The expresso and cappuccino are awesome.

Theatro Café & Restaurant

It features striking interior design and is well worth visiting to have a coffee, tea or breakfast. But, if you want lunch or dinner, you’d be better off looking at other options. Bookings admitted. The premises are spacious and thus suitable for groups. The café has a terrace, too.

Veltlin

Simply the best wine bar in the Czech Republic. They offer biodynamic wines sourced locally, as well as from Slovakia, Austria and many other countries (particularly Central European). The spot has become a trendy after-work bar in Prague. Lunch and dinner are also served.

Krystal Mozaika Bistro

A good place to discover meat-based Czech cuisine. The beef hamburger and roast chicken are really delicious. But, there are other tasty dishes, too, notably the French onion soup and potatoes au gratin.

The Pub

The interesting thing about this pub is the beer tap at each table. It is part of a chain of establishments in the city, but the typical Czech food is also very good here.

Hamburk Pub

As in the rest of the country, great care is lavished on beer here. You can also enjoy freshly prepared homemade cuisine. They offer traditional Czech dishes based on locally sourced fresh ingredients.

Bistro Proti Proudu

This bistro is noted for its excellent service. Their menu is exquisite and varied. We tried the hummus and carrot cake, which were delicious. This venue is ideal for a fast snack or sandwich. Comfortable interior.

Gate Restaurant

The perfect spot for coming to grips with local cuisine. The chicken soup and goulash are excellent, as is the traditional interior design. Bear in mind that smoking is still allowed on the ground floor, which struck us as being rather odd. Reasonably priced.

Charleston

Provides live music every night. This is the ideal spot for having a drink after dinner or to press on with the quest of tasting the various beers in the region.

In short, Karlín is an exceptional quarter of Prague. Its reconstruction achieved a balanced mix of office buildings and residential ones. Many people of diverse tastes and with a variety of professions live and move around this quarter. Don’t wait to discover it. Check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Czech Tourism, Commons Wikipedia

Berlin is synonymous with art. You don’t need to go much further to bump into someone who, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, has journeyed to the capital of Germany in search of an opportunity. With almost 450 galleries, 20,000 artists and over 3,000 exhibitions yearly, Berlin is experiencing an art boom. It heads the European art scene by a mile.

Gossip has it that over the last 20 years a new art gallery has been opened every week. Faced with that trend, no wonder that, over the last 12 years, Berlin’s galleries have joined forces to launch the Berlin Gallery Weekend (from 29 April to 1 May 2016) – the first of its kind – subsequently replicated in Paris, Vienna and Barcelona. We visited the city to see it for ourselves and spent three days packed with inaugurations, talks, parties and social events at special times to showcase the latest productions. This, just when spring is descending on the city and its streets start casting their gaze outwards.

Zero budget: admission to the galleries and other areas is free-of-charge.

Recommendation: hire a bicycle – distances become shorter when negotiated on two wheels. The city is big and the galleries string out from east to west, although centred mainly on Berlin Mitte, Kreuzberg and Potsdamer Straße. We began our tour – map in hand!

Berlin’s Epicentre – Auguststraße in Mitte

Auguststraße is lined with trendy restaurants and art galleries. This is the historic centre of Berlin; hence its name – Mitte, meaning middle. There we came across the KW Institute for Contemporary Art, a former margarine factory repurposed as an emerging art lab for mapping the latest trends. Right next door, the collector, Thomas Olbricht, presents his private collection, me Collectors Room, an area of 1,300m² with exhibits ranging from works by Cindy Sherman to exotic objects worthy of a curio cabinet. Long-standing venues, including the widely acclaimed Eigen + Art, blend in with the newcomers, like Kicken Berlin and neugerriemschneider, and the elegant building of Sprüth Magers on Oranienburger Straße, bringing a breath of fresh air to the local scene.

One of the latest venues to burst in on the scene, which features the epitome of a fusion between art and gastronomy, is the Jüdische Mädchenschule (Jewish Girls’ School). Housed in this building – which reopened in 2012 after falling into disuse – is theMichael Fuchs Galerieand a number of restaurants which form a nexus between the past and present. Among these isThe Kosher Class Room,which offers traditional Sabbath dishes on the menu, andMogg Deli,the best place for indulging in a good pastrami sandwich.

Before leaving the centre and heading for Kreuzberg, we made a compulsory stop at Clärchens Ballhaus. Opened in 1913, this dance hall is a veritable Berlinese legend which survived two World Wars and numerous Nazi clampdowns. Young and old, tourists, locals, good and bad dancers – there is something infectious about Clärchens which makes you feel at home there!

Around Checkpoint Charlie

Near the Berlin Wall’s most famous checkpoint and also the Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) and halfway between Kreuzberg and Mitte, lies the Galerienhaus. This former Lufthansa headquarters which became a centre for political asylum-seekers in the nineties, houses 11 contemporary art galleries on its various levels. If you chance to go there, be sure to see the Gallerie Nordenhake, the Gallerie ŻAK | BRANICKA and the historic Konrad Fischer Gallery. Although initially founded in Düsseldorf, like so many other galleries in the Rhinelands, it ended up moving to the capital.

A few minutes away in the Mitte direction lies one of the trendiest venues in the area, the VeneKlasen/Werner Gallery, founded by the New Yorker, Michael Werner, who brought a piece of the Chelsea scene to Berlin, making it more spacious, more professional and… more expensive.

Before leaving Kreuzberg, we visited the Church of St Agnes which now houses the König Galerie. Built in the Brutalist style, it was acquired by Johann König and opened to the public as an art gallery in 2015. Here, in what appears to be the end of the white cube, a good itinerary is guaranteed.

Potsdamer Straße – A Trendy Art Boom

We came to Schöneberg, on the old west side, where for many years galleries and creative projects have been mushrooming, taking up every available square metre. The fact is it seems to be a surefire win-win formula – the venues are mutually beneficial in that their accretion and synched opening and inauguration times draw ever more visitors. Among the galleries you simply cannot pass up are the Supportico Lopez and Esther Schipper. However, if time is at a premium and you need to make a choice, head straight for the Isabella Bortolozzi Galerie. The Italian artist opened her gallery in 2008 in the former apartment where the actor and singer Hans Albers lived from 1946 to 1948. The premises have been preserved virtually intact. The walls are lined with wood panelling and secret recesses, which act as a backdrop.

Art galleries housed on a fifth floor without a lift in reclaimed buildings; exhibitions which can only be reached by crossing two patios and three doors… the list goes on and on. If you’re planning to visit the city within the prescribed timeframe, check out the full programme and our daily flights to Berlin. Happy Gallery Weekend!

Text by Núria Gurina for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Marco Funke, Genial23, Axel Schneider, Wolfgang Staudt