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Two Days in Valencia: What to See and Do

Here are six plans for a two-day break in Valencia. We include a bit of history, a bit of sun and sand, a bit of gastronomy and a bit of culture. A well-rounded break!

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4 reasons to get away to Majorca in spring

Majorca is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. And it comes as no surprise, because it offers endless attractions. But if you prefer to stay away from the crowds, it’s better to travel out of season. Spring is a great time to go as it is mild, doesn’t rain much and there are fewer tourists about. Find out the best things to see in the largest of the Balearic Islands, and you won’t need a swimsuit!

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Budapest – The Gastrohipster Mecca

Where Hipsters Converge – the Jewish Quarter
One of the liveliest areas of Budapest, where you come across a smashing eatery at every step, whether classical or hip. One of the most charming restaurants offering traditional cuisine is the Spinoza Café, with its intimate lighting and walls bedecked with vintage illustrations. The menu features Jewish specialities such as hummus, and the essential Hungarian dishes like goulash, a popular beef stew usually accompanied with spätzle, an unevenly shaped type of noodle. Dinner ends with one of Hungary’s most typical liqueurs, pálinka, a potent but digestive spirit which is here displayed in a priceless giant bottle on the bar counter.

If you prefer something more contemporary, there is no dearth of options. Like the Street Food Karaván, a concentration of dedicated food trucks and kiosks where you can grab a bite at their shared, open-air tables. The homemade hamburgers of Zing Burger will not disappoint either. Other options with a roof over your head include Situ (Kazinczy, 32), with a French touch, Vintage Garden, feminine and romantic, 3, Három, Three (Kazinczy, 3), informal and cool, and Doblo, a cheerful wine bar.

End off the night with a drink at one of the “ruin bars”,one of the most unusual concepts in Budapest. They are located in derelict buildings, reclaimed by young people and turned into bars with a hint of the underground and a big helping of imagination – creativity has taken over where funding reaches its limits. The most famed ruin bar is Szimpla Kert, with its entertaining, enveloping atmosphere.

Where To Eat In Buda: Baltazár Grill
While Pest is more dynamic, don’t leave the city without visiting Buda Castle and its stunning views. Here we recommend you eat at the Baltazár Grill, a hip bistro with its striking painting by Basquiat. They serve modernised Hungarian dishes (their paprika chicken and goulash soup are excellent) and marvellous hamburgers made in a Josper grill. The other side of the restaurant is a cosy wine bar where you can try some great Hungarian wines.

Where the Beautiful People Go – Menza
This restaurant is all the rage now. A blend of retro and futuristic aesthetics featuring an eclectic, contemporary and international menu with room for pasta, sandwiches, various meat dishes and even the odd fish dish – bear in mind that Budapest is a predominantly meat-eating city.

Where To Delight In Bistros With Charm
The bistro formula is in vogue in the Hungarian capital. After Costes and Onyx, the third restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star was the Borkonyha bistro, with a relaxed ambience but impeccable cuisine. Alongside the priceless Central Market stands the splendid Borbíróság, offering modern market cuisine and over a hundred quality Hungarian wines served by the glass. Highly recommendable is the duck and cherry ragout with potato and Cheddar cheese, and their foie gras beef with ratatouille and roast potatoes. Other bistros you will enjoy include Terminal, sited in an erstwhile bus station, and Zona, with beautiful interior design and Hungarian dishes with an international flourish.

Afternoon Tea – Cafés With Character
Tradition rules in one of the cities with the greatest pastry expertise. Before leaving Budapest, make a point of having afternoon tea in the stylish New York Café, housed in a 19th-century neo-Baroque palace where you will find it difficult to stop taking snaps… until you try one of their pastries, of course! Also classical but more sober is the Gerbeaud, one of the city’s most acclaimed pastry cafés. Make sure you try one of the local specialities, which are of exceptional quality here – the Dobos cake, made of fine layers of sponge, chocolate cream and a caramel topping.

Where To Sleep – Eurostars Budapest Center
This four-star Spanish hotel chain has an unrivalled siting on the edge of the Jewish Quarter and a stone’s throw away from the Danube. Housed in a Communist-era building, the rooms are spacious, bright, functional and elegant at affordable prices. The self-service breakfast is copious and varied, and the common areas comfortable, but the best thing is the service – they are helpful and, if you require a booking, they do it for you… and they speak Spanish!

 

Text and photos: Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)

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8 Essential Terrace Cafés in Marrakech

The Top

La Mamounia is one of the world’s legendary hotels, where actors, royalty, politicians and countless other famous people have stayed. With its majestic palace ambience and imperial gardens stretching across 8 hectares, this dream enclave looks like something from A Thousand and One Nights. Here you will find luxury and splendour in their pure state, an area devoted exclusively to cuisine and mixology, and exclusive service. Be a daredevil and cross the hotel threshold, but make sure you have donned your best attire to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb amid so much glamour. And, enjoy the bar terrace with its views over a majestic natural oasis. The best time of day to sip your cocktail – they’re priced around 15 euros, but are well worth the treat – is at dusk, when the light and temperature bring out the magic of the moment and enchant even the most sybaritic.

Popular

A steep red staircase leads up from Bab Fteuh Square to the rooftop of building no. 21 – hold onto the handrail to avoid stumbling, and mind your head! Chez ZaZa is a popular eatery with a friendly atmosphere frequented by Marrakechians. This small, colourful rooftop café offers tasty, well presented traditional dishes – chicken pie, charcoaled meat, an assortment of tagines and spicy, hot vegetable salads, all for an average price of under 10 euros. By day, the terrace affords views of the entertaining bustle in the souk down below; in the evening, you can contemplate the sun setting over the rooftops of the Medina.

International

If your thing is an idyll full of hustle and bustle, this is your spot. The Palais Lamrani is a former riad refurbished by a French couple which offers guests an exclusive ambience. The beautiful gardens in the inner patio form one of the most enchanting terraces in the city. There you can enjoy a relaxing, romantic meal amid leafy vegetation and the pleasant sound of the fountain in the centre. They serve Moroccan and international cuisine based on fresh produce (the menu changes each week). You can also visit just to have a coffee, cocktail or drink. This spot, known as La Table du Palais, is truly delightful.

Authentic

Jamaa el Fna Square transforms into a hive of activity at night, particularly on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. It is one vast stage where locals and tourists gather to soak up the festive atmosphere, to listen to live music and watch folk dancing. They come to buy clothes and all sorts of objects from street hawkers, to take part in improvised family games or to fall spellbound to story-tellers, snake charmers and medicine men. But, family and friends also descend on the square to have a weekly feast, seated around large tables shared with strangers. Dozens of food stalls are on hand for you to try national dishes, like barbecued lamb’s head, charcoaled tripe, vegetable soup, seafood or Arab confectionery. However, beware – while the festive atmosphere and authenticity can be hypnotic, the food requires a rugged stomach!

Solidary

The Amal Center is a non-profit organisation which seeks to empower disadvantaged Moroccan women and enable them to become independent and integrate in the workplace. It is headquartered in Marrakech’s Semlalia quarter and providesa programme of restaurant training for women, where they learn to cook and serve meals professionally. It boasts a beautiful terrace with jazmine and orange trees with flowers that give off a heady scent. There you can try their Moroccan creations (mechoui, tagine, couscous…) and internationally-inspired dishes. “Everything is homemade except the water”, they explain. The price is 8 euros per head.

Famous

The Hôtel de France is a veritable institution in Marrakech. Locals and tourist flock to its terrace restaurant, with magnificent panoramic views of the Jemaa el Fna Square and the Medina quarter. Have a seat there, and sip leisurely on one of their very sweet mint teas as you calmly soak up the fascinating atmosphere in the square, accompanied by the beat of the drums and the Koranic chants that ring out at prayer time.

Intimate

Access to this terrace, with deck chairs and pool included, is reserved solely for guests of the Riad Abracadabra. There you can have breakfast, a drink or simply chill out. Just for that alone, it is worth staying in this hotel, its interior design worthy of an editorial in a design magazine. Peace and quiet, and good taste, reign supreme. A not-to-be-missed destination in the heart of the Medina.

Relaxing

The terrace of the Kasbah Café, sited opposite the Saadian Tombs in a typically Moroccan setting, is ideal for enjoying a pleasant lunch in the open air with views of the stunning Koutoubia Minaret. You will take away memories of the warm, friendly service in this café, as well as of their simple, light, traditional cuisine. An ideal spot for taking a breather during your sightseeing of nearby places of interest – the Bahia and El Badi Palaces, the Saadian tombs and the Jewish quarter.

Ready to visit the rooftops, gardens and patios of Marrakech? Book your Vueling here.

 

Text and photos: Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas

 

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