Alternative Jerusalem
Jerusalem is a fascinating place. Strolling through its Old City – the cradle of Jewish, Christian and Muslim culture – is like walking across a set in some Hollywood blockbuster directed by Cecile B. Demille. This enclave breathes history in every stone holding up its temples and other buildings although, when it comes to travels, the capital of Israel has long been classed as a religious destination. Indeed, any pilgrimage to the Holy Land should include a fascinating tour of the city’s catacombs. In the following we reveal the most interesting spots in an alternative Jerusalem, pinpointing the bars and clubs in the renovated Mahane Yehuda market.
Adraba Books
A meeting point for the city’s literary community, Adraba Books is Jerusalem’s bookstore for anyone seeking stories that go beyond official accounts. Over and above its café – worth commending in a country which does not stand out for its espressos, macchiatos and cappuccinos – it is noteworthy for its section of art volumes and its stock of titles in foreign languages, particularly English. Sderot Ben Maimon 5
Casino De Paris
Located in the heart of Mahane Yehuda – a refurbished market filled with colourful food stalls by day, many of which become bars and clubs with live music by night – stands the Casino de Paris, formerly one of the most popular clubs among British officers stationed in Jerusalem during the nineteen twenties. A century later it is now reliving its days of glory, and can count among its die-hards a large, motley crew of night revellers. The revival is largely the brainchild of Sha’anan Streett, the vocalist of Hadag Nahash, one of Israel’s most widely acclaimed hip-hop bands, and Eli Mizrahi, the owner of the nearby Machneyuda, possibly the best restaurant in the city. 3 Mahane Yehuda Street
Gatsby
Next door to a fast-food eatery, Gatsby is half-concealed behind a drab black steel gate, lacking any sign that might denote its presence. Despite its brief history (it opened just over a year ago), it is actually Jerusalem’s first cocktail lounge to re-create the ambience of an American speakeasy from the Prohibition era. It is stunning to see their barwoman wielding the cocktail shaker. As in other locales of this kind, you can only gain access if you know the secret code of the day, or else pretend to be a strayguiri– it worked with me. 18 Hillel Street
Lev Smadar
Lev Smadar opened in 1921 and is one of the most emblematic cinemas in Jerusalem. Hidden in an alleyway in the German quarter, it is honestly more difficult to find than Wally without his striped shirt. It features American, European and Israeli independent cinema and is frequented by the city’s arty crowd. All the movies are screened in their original version and local films are in Hebrew with English subtitles. 4 Lloyd George Street
Razzouk Tattoo Studio
Lost among the winding streets skirting the Jaffa Gate lies Razzouk Tattoo, the first and only tattoo parlour in Jerusalem’s Old City. Like almost everything here, the story of Razzouk Tattoo is fascinating. The Razzouks, a family of Egyptian origin, have been tattooing since the 14th century. In those times Copts would have a small cross etched on the inside of their wrist to gain entry to churches. After settling in Jerusalem, the grandfather, Yacoub Razzouk, opened his studio in the mid-20th century. The family tradition is now furthered by his grandson, Wassim Razzouk. 31 St. George Street
Uganda
This club is ideal for dropping in on the night scene on weekdays. It has been operating for the last ten years and is one of the favourite sanctuaries of DJs involved in Israel’s electronic underground. It is also a place to feed on vinyls, graphic novels and other Israeli counter-culture publicity. It is also one of the few clubs in town where you can quaff on a pint of Taybeh, a Palestinian beer which is up there with the best German or Belgian barley beverages. 4 Aristobolos Street
Videopub
This is the only openly gay bar in Jerusalem and a winner if you want to have a memorable night in the city. If you strike it lucky, you will happen upon one of their popular thematic parties from the 80s and 90s, soirées where the punchiest hits from those two decades will sound out one after the other. And, if you get too heavily involved in the revelry, don’t be surprised if you get carried off by one of the drag queens, who will lead you onto the dance floor. You’ve been warned! 1 Horkanus Street
Yellow Submarine
Open since 1991, the Yellow Submarine is Jerusalem’s most emblematic concert hall, the venue where both good – and the best – stars (albeit, unknown here) of the eminently interesting Israel music scene have performed, as well as some of the leading international figures that have visited the country. In addition to their daily bowling schedule, this booster of local talent also hosts conferences and exhibitions, as well as being hired out for rehearsals and recording sessions. 13 Ha-Rechevim Street
Come and discover Jerusalem’s alternative scene – book your Vueling here!
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Oriol Rodríguez, Cine Lev Smadar (© Alex Jilitsky), Uganda (© Udim), Yellow Submarine (© Uri Leshem)
more infoCuriosities in Malaga
1- El Caminito del Rey (King’s little road)
Known by fans of extreme sports for being one of the most dangerous roads in the world . It is a 3-kilometer pedestrian walkway with sections just 1 meter wide that gets to hang up to 100 meters above the river and is located between the villages of Alora and Ardales. King Alfonso XIII had to cross it in 1921 to inaugurate the prey to Conde del Guadalhorce, hence the name.
2- Júzcar. El Pueblo Pitufo (Júzcar. Smurf’s Village)
Only from that grace so typical of Malaga can be understood that an idea like this was born. Taking advantage of the promotion of Smurfs 3D movie , the village was painted blue and, after a popular consultation, it was agreed to extend the painting of the facades. The town of Juzcar became the first Smurf Village in the World on June 16, 2011. Thanks to the original proposal, it has become a leading destination for family holidays.
3- El Castillo de Colomares
This strange construction, which pays tribute to Columbus and the Discovery of America, is located in Benalmadena and is a compendium of architectural styles as diverse as Moorish, Romanesque and Gothic, that give the monument an air somewhat bizarre .
On the inside you can visit which is considered by the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest chapel in the world , with just 1’96 square meters. On the few occasions on which Mass is celebrated in the chapel, Christian believers should listen from outside.
4- Frigiliana
Of Frigiliana is said to be one of the most beautiful and best preserved villages in Spain . With just 3,000 inhabitants, is situated in the eastern part of Malaga’s province, between the Sierra de Almijara and the Mediterranean Sea. Its streets of medieval-Moorish style’s architecture and its old town has been awarded prizes such as the Improvement and Embellishment of Towns of the Province, the Beautification of the people of Spain or the First Prize of National Award Competition improvement and Embellishment of Towns of Andalusia.
5- Santa Teresa de Jesús’s incorrupt hand
There is another curiosity in the beautiful town of Ronda. Its Iglesia de la Merced maintains what they callSanta Teresa de Jesus’s incorrupt hand. About ten months after the saint’s death , in 1582, her remains were exhumed, and the Catholic Church claims that her body was found incorrupt. Now this relic has being protected by a gilded silver glove embedded with precious stones.
6- La Casa de los Navajas (Navajas House)
Facing the beach El Bajondillo in Torremolinos, this beautiful Neomudejar style building has survived property speculation. The simple fact of surviving Costa del Sol’s fierce land speculation, is in itself something extraordinary. It is also one of the most beautiful and emblematic places with interior decor inspired by the Alhambra in Granada. The house was declared a Historic Landmark by the Department of Culture of the Junta de Andalucía in 1991.
7.- How to order a coffee in Málaga
This video comes to be a useful guide in how to order coffee in Malaga, with the measurements invented by the Central Cafe Malaga. There are 10 different ways to ask for it and many visitors might wonder where their nomenclature comes. Began in 1954 in postwar times, when coffee was more expensive. The owner of the Café Central, José Crespo Prado had to choose between throwing coffee or do another again, to suit all tastes. To avoid wasting coffee, identified 10 possible amounts of coffee and named them, so you always have a measure that would suit your tastes.
8- Málaga, cinema city
Finally, some interesting facts related to the movies. For example, the final scene of the movie “Milennium. Men Who Hate Women”, in which Lisbeth leave the car with a briefcase, was shot in the Malagueta beach, on the Paseo Marítimo Pablo Picasso. Apparently, this area showed perfectly the idea that its director, Niels Arden Oplev, was to represent the Cayman Islands.
In Málaga, movies like Michelangelo Antonioni’s The Passenger , starring Jack Nicholson and Maria Schneider, Jacques Feyder’s Carmen that starred Raquel Meller or San Luis Rey’s Bridge , starring Robert Of Niro and Geraldine Chaplin
The most common scenario for shooting was Finca de la Concepción because of the lush botanical garden that reminds exotic countries such as Cuba, the Philippines and India. Here was filmed, for example, The latest of the Philippines or the Adventures of Barber of Seville.
Why not take a trip to Málaga? Have a look at our flights here!
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La Palma – A Boundless Source of Vitality
La Palma is well known for its pure, pristine and well preserved natural heritage. But, it doesn’t stop there. Over and above leisure activities, the island offers endless possibilities, making it an alluring destination. One of its main claims to fame is the beauty of its landscapes and its wealth of secluded spots for roaming about and communing totally with the above-mentioned pristine nature. Legion are the visitors who come to this wonderful island to get away from the stressful rat race of urban life. We also did it and our experience was very rewarding.
Return to the Source
The biodiversity of La Palma is virtually endless. When you first visit the island – nicknamed the Beautiful Island – the first thing that hits you is the explosion of scents, ranging from salty coastal aromas to the smell of fresh pine. Wafting across its fields are a variety of balmy aromas carried on the breeze. In short, you can enjoy a whole gamut of different fragrances, the fruit of plant evolution in isolation from continental development.
This land is actually home to several microclimates supporting a lush variety of plant species. One activity that struck us most forcefully during our visit was trekking. At times we felt we were steeped in a prehistoric environment, while at others the scenery was reminiscent of the tropics. La Palma is a rambler’s paradise, that’s for sure. The island is covered in an extensive network of trails. They are very well marked with coloured waymarkers, information panels and vertical signposts.
Practically all corners of the island can be reached via these footpaths, from the Volcano Route to the Coastal Path, which follows the perimeter of the island, and the Port-to-Port Route, which connects Santa Cruz de La Palma to Puerto de Tazacorte. Further information on the trails here.
These stunning walks enabled us to discover some of the indigenous species. We found it interesting that birds, reptiles and invertebrates make up the bulk of indigenous species. One noteworthy fact is that the fauna on La Palma is particularly rich in invertebrates. The reason for this is related to its insularity, which has led animal populations to be genetically isolated, facilitating the preservation of archaic species or the emergence of new species due to local evolution.
It’s a thrilling experience to wander through the island’s forests along the numerous trails and to search for indigenous species. One of them is the laurel pigeon, which can be found mainly in La Palma’s laurel forests, and Bolle's pigeon. The Tenerife speckled lizard is the most widespread of the reptiles and amphibians.
Walking Among Volcanoes
La Palma clearly offers a vast array of water activities. It is an idyll for enthusiasts of canoeing, diving and so on. But, the island hinterland also has its charm. You can do anything, from quadding and mountain biking to star-gazing and trekking. In the centre and south of the island, you can take the aforementioned Volcano Route, endowed with natural hiking trails along what used to be an important communications route between districts. This age-old footpath traverses the municipalities of El Paso, Mazo and Fuencaliente within the Cumbre Vieja Nature Reserve, and is impressively well appointed and signposted. The hike is tough, particularly because vegetation is rather sparse throughout. Be warned, too, that slopes can be very steep. Make sure you have the right gear and enough food and water to last for the duration of the trek, which takes about six and half hours, if you end at Los Canarios, or eight and a half if you complete the full trail, finishing at Faro de Fuencaliente.
The Volcano Route is a 30.9 kilometre hike, with an accumulated slope of 1,207 metres. The natural trail ranges from the minimum altitude of 725 metres at Fuencaliente to 1,932 metres on the summit crestline. Surfaces vary between forest trails, footpaths and asphalt. This trekking route enables you to see both island slopes and, if you’re lucky, to catch sight of such indigenous species as the rook and kestrel.
Come and recharge your batteries in La Palma. Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by La Palma Tourist Board
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The Jet Set’s Best Kept Secret
Granted, the seaboard of the Emerald Coast is a haven for anyone seeking idyllic beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. And one might be forgiven for forgetting to visit the town of Olbia. However, we are determined to sing the praises of this charming locality in the north of Sardinia, and of the Emerald Coast and environs. Touring here during the summer months is obviously a surefire bet, but we intend to persuade you to make an off-season visit, to discover the area’s true DNA, over and above any touristic conditioning.
Olbia
On the opposite side to its industrial precinct lies an attractive town with a historical centre dotted with shops, wine bars and café-packed squares. But, above all, the authenticity of Olbia stands in stark contrast to the more touristy areas on the north and south sides of the island.
Located on the Emerald Coast, Olbia is clearly evocative of a classical Sardinian picture postcard – white sandy beaches, wind-sculpted rocks projecting into the blue sea and luxury tourism galore, with yachts moored off the many coves along the coastline. However, inland Gallura seems to be in the antipodes, with its vineyards, pretty villages, mountains and mysterious nuragas – the most prolific megalithic construction on the island dating back prior to 1,000 BC. The northern Gallura coastline is rugged, its waters an exclusive sanctuary for dolphins, divers and windsurfers delighting in the marine reserve of La Maddalena. The Maddalena National Park includes an archipelago made up of seven islands, known as “the Seven Sisters”: La Maddalena – the largest of them – Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria and Razzoli. All the islands are granitic, set close to one another and surrounded by shallow water. This, added to the chromatic fluctuations of the sea and the marvel of nature here make for an incomparable setting well worth discovering. The town still has the appearance of a former fishing village and its sights include the town hall, the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, as well as restaurants and shops offering all kinds of products.
Emerald Coast
The Emerald Coast, which stretches for 55 km from Porto Rotondo to the Gulf of Arzachena, is the island’s most sought after tourist destination, a flashy preserve of luxury hotels, hidden beaches and pleasure harbours accessible to a chosen few. Ever since the Aga Khan acquired the coast for a sou in the 1960s, it has attracted the jet set from all over the world and, of course, a swarm of paparazzi, too. But, despite such trifles, the fact remains it is a well nigh perfect setting, with granite mountains bathed in emerald-green waters and a string of coves, each of them different yet perfect in its own right.
Its capital is Porto Cervo, an unusual seaside resort in that it resembles a mock-up, with Moorish-style buildings and squeaky-clean streets. Jaunty, rakish and worldly, this sophisticated spot is a veritable paradise. From June to September it is the hub of high-class partying, with tanned beauties posing in the Piazzetta and oil millionaires ambling about the big name stores. But, the coast is very quiet for the rest of the year and it is unlikely you will bump into anybody, apart from the odd bunch of locals.
A westbound excursion would be in order. You will come to Baia Sardinia, an expanse of exquisite sand, while in the south, near the Hotel Cala di Volpe, lie the spectacular beaches of Capriccioli and Spiaggia di Liscia Ruia. Hard by the Hotel Romazzino, the beach of Spiaggia del Principe fans out in the shape of a crescent moon, its white sand bathed by the deep blue sea. But, let’s press on with our dream. And, not all the region’s treasures are sited along the coast.
Not to be missed in the interior is the village of San Pantaleo. Further inland, the town of Arzachena reveals a number of interesting archaeological sites, notably Nuraghe di Albucciu, alongside the main road to Olbia, and Coddu Ecchju, one of the island’s most important tombe dei giganti – funerary monuments made up of communal burials dating from the Nuragic period (second millennium BC).
Eager to discover the marvels of Olbia and the Emerald Coast during the quieter months? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Gabriel Garcia Marengo
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