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15 food hot spots in Munich

By Laura Conde

You have three days off, and some money saved up. You’ve already visited the major European capitals and, although you would love to return to London or Paris, you just can’t afford to pay €4 for a cup of coffee right now. What to do then? Book a flight to Munich? We’re here to help and to answer your question. We took a flight to Munich to spend three days discovering the wonders of the third largest city in Germany after Berlin and Hamburg, the capital of Bavaria, where people say goodbye with a cheerful “ciao”, have beer and sausages for breakfast, and worship both Guardiola and Duke William IV, who back in 1516 passed a law that would change the course of German history – the so-called Purity Law – which established that only water, hops, yeast and malt could be used to make beer. Why did he do that? Apparently, William IV was losing many of his subjects because they were drinking lethal homemade beer that contained all kinds of preservatives.

Drinking beer, as we can see at Oktoberfest, has always been and always will be a deeply-rooted tradition in Munich, which is one of the cities where the popular biergarten (beer gardens) appeared: they are outdoor gardens with long tables to share, and Bavarian music playing in the background; places where you can bring food and spend all day drinking beer. When the weather is fine, the biergarten fill with locals and tourists, but they are usually closed in winter. Beer lovers must come to the city during the Starkbierfest, the so-called “strong beer festival”, from 21 March to 6 April. It’s a kind of Oktoberfest, not as busy but just as fun, when the locals take to the streets with the same purpose in mind: to drink lots of beer!

Another famous William in the history of Bavaria was William V of Wittelsbach, whose huge wedding celebration was unique in the city, and it led to the creation of one of Munich’s largest attractions: the famous Glockenspiel in the Town Hall, which can be seen twice a day and is a really interesting event. That festive spirit from 16th century Munich, where everyone stopped working in order to devote themselves to that wedding, is still pleasantly alive today, in a beautiful and surprisingly lively city, where the locals are kind and cheerful. We walked through the city’s historic quarter, the trendy neighbourhoods and those new districts that are enjoying a boom thanks to the gentrification that increasingly affects the outskirts of wealthy cities, and we found what we think are Munich’s 15 hot spots. And after this, you won’t need to think twice: You have to go!

THE TRENDY MUNICH

1. Brunch at Cotidiano

In Gärtnerplatz, the trendy area in Munich par excellence, and one of the most bustling areas in the city, we can find this busy place, which is ideal for Sundaybrunch or just to spend the afternoon enjoying a large mug of coffee (which is actually served in a bowl!), and taste one of the sandwiches, homemade cakes or salads. Other things not to be missed in the square include the range of salads and other dishes that are available, which look absolutely delicious. The large window that looks onto the street is delightful on sunny days, which are unfortunately not very common in winter. But that’s part of Munich’s charm. There is no Wi-Fi in the café.
Gärtnerplatz 6

2. A stop to shop for clothes at Kauf Dich Glücklich.

Very close to Cotidiano we find a very interesting shop selling men’s and women’s clothes. Inside there is a small bar where they serve coffee. Outside there is a sort of terrace with a few recycled tables and chairs, and this shop is the ideal place to stop and purchase sophisticated, urban, stylish and affordable clothes.
Oderberger Straße 44

3. XXL cake at Kochspielhaus.

The size of absolutely everything in this café in the centre is incredible. Their idea of a portion is nothing like ours, so tourists who like to eat well will not be disappointed. Kochspielhaus, however, is not one of those tacky places where they serve huge portions of food and people talk in a loud voice: it’s a beautiful café, with impeccable decor, similar to Cotidiano, with a bakery inside. It’s full of young professionals, many of them accompanied by their dogs (if there’s a city that’s dog friendly, it’s Munich), where everything is gorgeous as well as huge. When you walk in, you find a selection of large and delicious cakes, that you can combine with an enormous latte, or a gigantic glass of fruit juice. The café is covered in wood and is a must if you want to discover the coolest side of Munich.
Rumfordstraße 5

4. Italian dinner in Sarfati.

We weren’t sure about visiting an Italian restaurant because after all, we are in Munich, and here people have beer and sausages for breakfast (we’ve seen it with our own eyes), and when you’re really hungry you can have pork knuckles. But there is such a strong Italian influence in this Bavarian city that you wouldn’t think that this colourful restaurant, Sarfati, situated in the hipster part of Munich, is an international restaurant. Many people in Munich speak Italian and any restaurant in any neighbourhood includes Italian dishes on the menu – tiramisu, salads or pasta, for example. In this context we find this restaurant/wineshop that puts a lot of work into its pasta dishes: all the ingredients come from Italy (you should order “burrata” if it’s on the menu), the pasta is handmade with excellent raw materials, and there is an interesting selection of wines. The house wine, an Italian Asinoi, is delicious. And you can eat excellent food for €25 each.
Kazmairstraße 28

5. Any time of day at Café Marais.

This is probably our favourite restaurant in Munich, both for the quality of a simple and delicious menu that is available all day, and for the fairy-tale decor, in a small area surrounded by small and charming boutiques selling clothes by local designers. It’s not very far from Sarfati, and it’s a friendly café with large cakes and tables to share, full of vintage details and an authentic atmosphere between retro and naive. Looking out the window while it snows outside is an amazing experience. Bear in mind that there is no Wi-Fi here.
Parkstraße 2

6. Brenner, Germany’s largest indoor grill.

As we were saying, the Mediterranean influence in general, and Italian especially, is ever-present in Munich. We can see this in one of the fashionable restaurants in the city: Brenner. It’s a large and busy restaurant situated in an old stable, and the average price on the menu is less than €25, while it is sophisticated and stylish. Mediterranean-style cuisine with a clear Italian influence and interpretations of traditional German dishes is what we find in a restaurant where you have to order meat, which is served with vegetables, and is cooked instantly on the largest indoor grill in Germany. They offer a wide selection of cakes, perfect for the sweet-toothed. There is no Wi-Fi, either.
Maximilianstraße 15

7. A coffee with the children at San Francisco Coffee Company.

It’s a very pleasant café chain, and we chose the one that is next to the amazing Verkehrszentrum, the transport museum, to stop for a drink, and at last! – we were able to use their Wi-Fi and boast a bit about our trip on Instagram (there aren’t many restaurants with Wi-Fi in Munich). Delicious coffee and cakes in a modern, attractive and child-friendly place – it was full of families with children, and there was even a play area.
Check where the cafés are at: www.sfcc.de

THE TRADITIONAL MUNICH

8. A litre of beer at Hofbräuhaus

This is a very interesting place: Hofbräuhaus. Don’t leave the city without coming here. It’s a large brewery, established in 1589 by… guess who? Yes, William V, the same man whose wedding lasted one whole week and produced the Glockenspiel in the Town Hall. This place is a paradise for tourists, a large temple of beer, served by the litre and drunk like water, while eating an XXL pork knuckle with potato dumpling at 5 pm. Hofbräuhaus is like Munich’s version of “Cheers”. It’s a place full of interesting characters, ranging from large blond men with bushy moustaches, wearing the typical Bavarian costume, to waitresses wearing the same traditional costumes. Look out for one thing: the knot on their dresses. If it’s on the right, they are married; if it’s on the left, they are single; and if it’s at the back, they are widows.
Platzl 9

9. Bavarian dinner at Augustiner.

One of the most popular beers in Munich, also known as the champagne of beers, has been brewed since the 14th century in a monastery in the city centre. It has an amazing restaurant where you can taste high quality Bavarian food for dinner, in an equally traditional setting, but less informal than the previous brewery and also less touristy. Although they serve a large range of Bavarian dishes, we also find international cuisine.
Neuhaustraße 27

10. Wasabi cheese (and more) at the Viktualienmarkt biergarten.

The Viktualienmarkt is one of Munich’s hot spots and it is worth flying to the city just to see this place. It’s an enormous outdoor market selling fresh produce and top quality food, and in summer a biergarten is set up here, which is very popular with the locals, who usually buy food at the market and eat it at the biergarten, washed down with a large beer. Although the biergarten is only set up in summer, the market is open all year round. As well as the outdoor market, the Viktualienmarkt has a large indoor area full of fresh produce where we can find many shops and food stalls.
Viktualienmarkt 3

11.Souvenirs from the Milka shop.

In the indoor market – where we don’t recommend stopping to eat, although everything there looks delicious, we can guarantee – we find one of the most popular souvenir shops in the city: the Milka shop. When we got to the till, a friendly shop assistant, in perfect Italian, convinced us to leave behind some badges we were going to buy, telling us they were too expensive and that why would you spend all that money on them (“troppo caro, amici”). It was probably just then, or maybe just before, that we fell in love with this place full of all kinds of interesting objects, from Milka-purple Bavarian dresses to slippers, chocolates, or one of our favourites: a 4.5 kg Toblerone!
Viktualienmarkt 15.

12. Beer by the litre at Oktoberfest.

It happens once a year but you remember it for the next eleven months. Marquees are erected next to the river, offering many places to enjoy beer exclusively, which is apparently drunk by the litre. Everyone in Munich, together with a large amount of visitors, takes to the streets to enjoy the pleasure of drinking beer: families with children, elderly couples, groups of students, businessmen, etc. It starts off early in the morning, so by midday the merriment is at its height in every corner of the city, the shy become bold and people strike up friendships that will last at least until the end of Oktoberfest.

13. The spring Oktoberfest: Starkbierfest.

Two weeks to celebrate strong beer, in several places in Munich, which locals usually call “Oktoberfest with no tourists”. The main venue for the festival, boasting plenty of beer and Bavarian music, is Paulaner, a brewery in Nockherberg, where apparently the first starkbier (strong beer) was made, called Salvator, which helped monks to endure their partial fast during Lent.

ART & SNACKS

14. Ella.

In the modern art museum, the Lenbachhaus, situated in the so-called “art district” with all the most important museums, we find a beautiful café with large windows that serves international food, especially Italian. It’s worth visiting just to take a photo next to its attractive seventies-style sign, although we do recommend visiting its collection of paintings by 18th and 19th century Munich-born artists, too. There’s more to it than just food!
Luisenstraße 33

WITH A MICHELIN

15. Star-quality traditional dinner at Pfistermühle.

Munich has several restaurants with a Michelin star. Some of them serve international cuisine, like the interesting and prestigious Japanese restaurant, Toshi, but we decided to stop at Pfistermühle, situated in an old 16th century ducal mill, to taste star-quality food, for less than €60. It’s right in the city centre and in fairy-tale surroundings, and especially offers interpretations of Bavarian specialities.
Pfisterstraße 4

AND MORE

Staying at the Schiller 5.

We chose this 4-star hotel in the centre for several reasons: it’s close to the station, which makes it easier to get to the airport; five minutes from the Marienplatz square, also in the centre; and in an area full of hotels, so there were restaurants open all the time, and all kinds of services in general. The hotel is sober, modern and comfortable, with a kitchen in the room, and the owner, a friendly elderly gentleman, goes round the tables at breakfast to ask guests if they are happy at his hotel.
Schillerstraße 5

A must (especially with the children): Deutsches Museum

Apart from all our food recommendations, we advise you to visit the most popular museum in Germany. The best way to get there is by walking along the river, which has a good place for swimming, very busy in the summer. It’s one of the most important science and technology museums in Europe, and has a section on transport (ships, aeroplanes and all kinds of motorised contraptions), space, musical instruments, ceramics, pharmacy, metal, physics, etc. We would need about eight days to visit it all! A good place to have a cup of coffee is the café inside the shop.
Museumsinsel 1

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

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5 Must Do Things in Bergen

Bergen’s history goes back 900 years. In all that time it has been characterised by the hospitality of its people towards visitors. Nowadays it is known for being the true cultural hub of Norway. In fact, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ever since the intrepid King Olav Kyrre entered the harbour and founded the city in 1070, Bergen has attracted people from all over the world. Some came and then left, while others chose to make Bergen their home. Bergensers have traditionally travelled overseas a lot; indeed, their flair for trading has always earned them long-standing ties with other lands, while drawing a number of different cultures to the city over the centuries. Hence, it was once Norway’s most important city, its first capital and seat of the royal family. The old city, Bryggen, lies just twelve kilometres from the airport – well, a short walk away!

Cruising among Fjords and Mountains

Enjoy an all-encompassing experience by going on a cruise among the fjords, mountains and waterfalls. It lasts three hours and takes you to Osterfjord and the picturesque Mostraumen, a spot so narrow the ships can hardly get through the sound. The cruise starts at Zachariasbryggen, next to the Fish Market. The first stretch of the trip affords nice views of the city of Bergen. You then sail under the Nordhordalandsbrua and on the Osterfjord. As you approach Mostraumen, the fjord begins to narrow and it is thrilling to find yourself hemmed in beneath steep mountains. The route also takes you past several waterfalls and you can even collect some water from them to drink. Have your smartphone cam ready, as it is easy to spot seals, goats and eagles during the crossing. More information here.

Strolling Along the Quayside

The old quayside saw its period of splendour in the 13th century when the erstwhile confederation of merchant cities in the north of Germany, set up to promote trade between the country’s major cities, opened one of its four European kontors here. Its architectural design is unique and is perhaps one of the images of Norway that most springs to mind. Bergen grew up around its colourful harbour which was the hub of trade, navigation and the craft industry.

The Fish Market

Bergen’s picturesque Fish Market is one of Norway’s most widely visited open-air markets. Fruit, vegetables and souvenirs are also sold here, but its mainstay is clearly the sale of fish. It is magnificently sited in the heart of the city, among the fjords and Bergen’s seven mountains. In the summer season (from 1 May to 30 September), the market opens from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day of the week. In winter, however, it only opens on Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Children relish a visit to this market as live shellfish is displayed in large fish tanks.

Award-Winning Panoramas

The best views of Bergen are to be had by taking the Fløibanen funicular railway which takes just 8 minutes to run up Mt Fløyen. Located on the summit is a stunning park with numerous attractions for children. Another option is to go for a walk on the top of the mountain. The funicular is one of Norway’s most famous draws. The ride begins in the city centre, just 150 metres from the Fish Market and the Bryggen. Mt Fløyen is about 320 metres above sea level and atop it you can soak up the fine views and take in the urban landscape in detail, as well as panoramic vistas of the sea and fjords of Bergen.

Edvard Grieg Museum

The current Edvard Grieg Museum was the famous composer’s home for 22 years, and it was in this quaint cabin set in a garden that he composed many of his most emblematic works. The museum is housed in Bergen’s Troldhaugen which, in addition to operating as a museum, also hosts exhibitions related to the creator of the famous Piano Concerto in A minor. It also features a café and a small concert hall which includes a cabin dating from 1885.

Bergen has a lot to offer, whether in the city proper or its surrounding area. We can recommend a visit to Stegastein, a viewpoint set 30 metres above the fjord and 650 metres above sea level, which affords some incredible views! Hurry and discover all this now – check out our flights here.

Images by Bergen Tourist, Sverre Hjornevik, Bergen Reiselivstag, Teje Rakke and Dag Fosse

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Budapest The Spa City

Budapest is said to be one of the most beautiful capitals in Europe, and with good reason. The rise of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1867 and the subsequent union between the cities of Buda and Pest turned the newfound metropolis into one of the continent’s leading magnets. Aside from its grand avenues, luxury palaces and bridges over the Danube, its appeal lies in its 118 springs spouting 70 million litres of water a day, at temperatures that vary from 20°C to 78°C.

The Spa City

Budapest has more thermal and medicinal water wells than any other world capital, earning it the title of “Spa City” in 1934. However, the properties of those waters have been known since ancient times. The Romans built thermal complexes during the period they settled there, as did the Ottoman Turks. Vestiges such as the Turkish baths have been preserved until today and are still operating at full steam.

However, the real boom in spa resorts took place in the early-20th century, coinciding with an upsurge in the city’s development and the foresight behind the decision to harness these waters for treating all kinds of diseases.

Planning Your Visit

Nowadays thousands of Budapesters and tourists from all over Hungary and the rest of the world come to delight in the city’s waters. There are obviously more spa guests in summer, but any time of the year is suitable for having a dip.

Each spa has its house rules, but most of them hire towels, have lockers for storing your clothes, and provide swimming caps. Check out the website of each establishment when planning your visit. While most resorts are mixed, some have different days or times of the day for men and women.

Here are the five thermal baths you simply cannot fail to visit:

Gellert

Remember that famous Danone advertisement from the early nineties, in which some hard-bodied models were swimming in a dream pool? Well, the pool in question happens to be the main one in the historic Gellert spa baths. Built in 1918, it is one of the city’s most elegant. It boasts 9 therapeutic pools, including a thermal bath, a bubble pool, a paddling pool and even a wave pool, flanked by statues and adorned with mosaics and stained glass windows.

It is also one of the more expensive baths. Admission varies from 3,800 to 4,200 forints (€13.20 to €14.60), but you simply can’t leave the city without visiting it.

Széchenyi

Inaugurated in 1913, it is one of the largest thermal bath complexes in Europe and the most popular one in Budapest among tourists. This does not, however, detract one bit from its charm. Bathing in one of the large outdoor thermal pools at Széchenyi is a wonderful experience. And, as it is the only spa in the Pest side of the river, you can sightsee this area before heading to the baths.

The admission fee depends on the services you hire, varying from 2,900 to 3,750 Hungarian forints (€10.10 to €13.05).

Rudas

Built by the Ottoman Turks in 1550, the Rudas Baths feature an octagonal pool covered by a dome, transporting one to A Thousand and One Nights. This spa is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays for men only, and on Tuesdays for women (wearing a swimming costume is not required). Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays are mixed. One option is to visit the spa baths on Friday or Saturday evening and extend your stay into the night at the Romkert, open from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. It is an open-air disco where you will be dancing at the foot of Mt Gellért.

Király

Together with Rudas, the Király are the most famous Turkish thermal baths. Opened in 1565, they resemble the Rudas Baths, although on a smaller scale, so you are advised to book ahead and take your own towels with you. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays are set aside for men and indeed this spa has become one of the major gathering places for gays. Király is also among the more economical baths in Budapest: 1,300 HUF (€4.50).

Lukács

Specialising in digestive disorders, the Lukács are famous for having been a meeting place for intellectuals in the 1950s and for being one of most popular resorts among tourists. With its seven pools set in a beautiful park, this is one of the best spots for coming into touch with Budapest society.

Now all that’s left is to pack your swimsuit and get ready for a dip. Check out our flights here.


Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Düsseldorf – the Cradle of Modern Electronic Music

Düsseldorf is the capital of North Rhine-Westphalia. In the mid-19th century it experienced economic growth fuelled by the Industrial Revolution. During the Second World War, the city was practically reduced to rubble but, thanks to the German miracle, it soon became one of the economic powerhouses of the Federal Republic of Germany.

Düsseldorf – Centre of the Avant-Garde Universe

Brian Eno once said that the Neu! experimental rock band from Düsseldorf was one of the three most inventive beats of the sixties, together with Fela Kuti’s afrobeat and James Brown’s funk. In the late sixties and early seventies, a characteristic Düsseldorf sound started to take shape, based on elements of early rock combined with those of experimental rock. Michael Rother and Klaus Dinger were the pioneers and both of them were members of Neu!, a reference model in the development of the endless machine beat typical of krautrock and, subsequently, in the early creation of Kraftwerk, the primogenitors of modern electronic music. Dinger is also credited with being the originator of themotorik beat, a rhythmic pattern based on a regular, mechanical and repetitive beat. Rother, for his part, also worked with Dieter Moebius and Hans-Joachim Roedelius, members of Cluster; they later teamed up to found Harmonia.

Kling Klang Studio

Ralf Hütter of Kraftwerk once said that the synthesizer is a psychoanalytic machine. Indeed, synths were the instruments that nourished the music of this German band, who also happened to design the world’s most modern studio in a flash. They called it the Kling Klang Studio, sited in the centre of Düsseldorf. The project was started by Ralf Hütter and Florian Schneider in 1970, but was not finished until 1975, an event marked by the release of the record, “Radio-Activity”. During the eighties, the studio was refurbished according to a modular rack design, with a view to being taken along on their forthcoming tour. It was originally sited at 16 Mintropstrasse, but in 2009 it was relocated to Meerbusch-Osterath, some 10 kilometres from Düsseldorf. This move has enabled the studio and office to be located on the same premises. The new Kling Klang includes a rehearsal room for preparing concerts.

Kunstsammlung NRW

This is where, in 2013, Kraftwerk embarked on their current 3D tour which is taking them to emblematic places across the globe to present their daring visual show, during which the audience require 3D glasses to get a much more intense sensorial experience. At Kunstsammlung, art is the central focus. The backbone of the collection is made up of 88 works by Paul Klee, while the rest are highly valuable contemporary artworks.

The Düsseldorf Scene Today

The electronic scene is currently not as solid as it was a few years ago. Loco Dice is a local artist with some international acclaim within the minimal scene headquartered here – the Desolat label. Another label based in the city is Themes for Great Cities, the home of Wolf Müller, a project by Jan Schulte, one of the most restless souls on the local electronic scene at the moment and a direct heir to the Düsseldorf sound.

Salon Des Amateurs is undoubtedly one of the most interesting clubs in the city. It is located in the heart of the art community, namely the Kunshalle, an exhibition space specialising in contemporary art. When entering the premises, one is struck by the Max Ernst sculpture. Here, the kraut tradition blends with the most select electronic avant-garde. At “The Salon”, as it is known here, the whole liturgy of dance takes place. Two of the resident DJs are Jan Schulte and Detlef Weinrich, from the legendary elektronische musik group Kreidler, who pioneered a fusion of ambient, post rock and IDM in the nineties, although their sessions are characterised by a mix of krautrock, African percussion and cosmic jazz. The name is drawn from the Salon organised by the Société Des Artistes Français, an association of French painters and sculptors who held annual events featuring the work of non-professional artists. This was the spirit of the venue in its early years, marked by a certain degree of anarchy, as reflected in the type of audience that frequented the event, from professors in their sixties to teenage skaters. Loco Dice’s Desolat label is headquartered here and makes the club the cradle of the city’s techno once again. The mission of Salon Des Amateursis to take up where Creamcheese left off as a progressive music disco, heir to the non-objective art movement that set in during the late sixties and turned out to be essential to the birth and development of the krautrock style. Then there is Ratinger Hof, a refurbished pub near the Kunstakademie, which became the epicentre of the punk movement in the seventies and eighties, and was graced by bands of the stature of Kraftwerk, Neu! and DAF.It now operates more as a club and the audience is mostly young. Speaking of clubs, most of the ones that hosted electronic underground have now closed down. Only the 102, known as Kiesgrube during the summer season, is still going strong.

Come and experience the effervescent music scene in Düsseldorf. Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Kraftwerk, Kunstsammlung, Salon Des Amateurs

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