Paris Shakespeare & Company
When one thinks of Paris, one of the first images that springs to mind is that of an aspiring writer, secluded in an attic, waiting for the Muse of inspiration to make her appearance. Paris is pure poetry and, as such, it houses some of the world’s best bookstores, like Shakespeare and Company. We are going to relive the fascinating history of this book shop and tour the most select Parisian literary venues.
Shakespeare and Company
Sylvia Beach had been in Paris for 20 years when she realised the need to open a shop where readers could find works in English. Shakespeare and Company opened on the rue Dupuytren in 1919 and subsequently moved to rue de l'Odéon, near Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The bookstore founded by Sylvia Beach – who was soon to embark on the publication of one of the great works of universal literature; James Joyce’s Ulysses – almost immediately caught on as a meeting point for English-language writers during their stay in Paris. There must have been some memorable literary gatherings within those walls between such illustrious figures as Man Ray, Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway and Samuel Beckett, among others.
In 1941, during the German occupation, Sylvia Beach refused to sell the first copy of Joyce’s novel, Finnegans Wake, to a German officer, an act of defiance which led her to be arrested and incarcerated in a concentration camp. She was released six months later, but never opened her book shop again. Sylvia Beach died in 1962 and a year later, another American, George Whitman, acquired her publishing list.
George Whitman had his own bookstore, Le Mistral, which was little more than a study full of printed pages on the rue de la Bûcherie, at the intersection of Saint-Jacques, alongside the Seine and opposite Notre Dame. Fascinated by the life story of Sylvia Beach, and as a tribute to her legacy, he changed the name of his store to rekindle the legend of Shakespeare and Company, the most famous bookstore in the world. This literary venue is well-known, among many other reasons, for providing accommodation to writers who come to Paris in search of inspiration free-of-charge on the upper floor of the shop. In exchange, they are expected to help stack the new releases that keep coming in, as well as serve and chat with customers. A huge number of literary figures have slept over in that loft – George Whitman estimates they number some 40,000. They include both anonymous enthusiasts and those who have ended up becoming paramount figures of the literary world. Prominent among our own literary figures is Terenci Moix who in his autobiography dedicates some passages to George Whitman and his stay at Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie).
Abbey Bookshop
Another of the most endearing bookstores in Paris is Abbey Bookshop. Located just a stone’s throw away from Shakespeare and Company, it is run by a Canadian whose warmth and friendliness are simply beyond words. The store is notable for its endless list of works in English (29 rue de la Parcheminerie).
Artazart
Located on the bucolic Canal St Martin, Artazart is a must-visit spot for design lovers. There, they will be enthralled not only by a stunning range of books and magazines on the subject but by some of the most outlandish design objects, on sale in the shop (83 Quai de Valmy).
Assouline
“The Most Sophisticated Books in the World” is the motto of Assouline Publishing. With branches in New York, London and Paris, its venue in the Saint Germain des Prés quarter features a boutique where you can purchase their publications, if you can afford them (35, rue Bonaparte).
Gibert Jeune
In the centrally located Place Saint-Michel, rather than a single bookstore per se, Gibert Jeune has several premises scattered around the square, each devoted to a different subject: literature, history, biography, etc. It can take up a whole afternoon’s browsing – and even two! (Place Saint-Michel)
L’Arnaqueur
A store featuring rare books, its major appeal lies in its boundless collection of titles dedicated to cinema, photography and art in general. In addition to books, the shop carries a huge selection of posters, acetates and promotional photos. A film-worthy experience for visitors (13 Rue Gerbier).
L’Écume des Pages
A bookstore purpose designed for those who cannot go to sleep without first reading for a while. At L’Écume des Pages, you will not manage to exhaust their wealth of titles, despite the shop staying open until midnight, except for Sundays, when they close at 10 p.m. to get a break (174 Boulevard Saint-Germain).
Ofr.
Freedom, fashion, design, Paris, elegance, class, youth, vibrant cultural urge… these are the words used by Ofr. to describe their publishing policy. A bookstore and exhibition gallery geared to art, design and fashion targeting the modern set, hipsters and other contemporary birds. Welcome to your Parisian intellectual gymnasium! (20 rue Dupetit-Thouars)
Ulysse
If Paris is just your first port of call on a long journey, make sure to drop in on Ulysse, one of the best bookstores in town and anywhere as far as globe-trotters and other migratory species are concerned (26 rue Saint-Louis en Île).
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Dustin Gaffke, craigfinlay, Groume, Arnaud Malon, Luc Mercelis, Blowing Puffer Fish
more info
Three Essential Spots on Gran Canaria
But, that is not all. There is also an endless array of places to visit and activities to engage in. Despite the myriad options, we have made a selection of the spots we feel you can’t afford to miss.
It is well known that Gran Canaria’s beaches are one of its major draws but, to leave it at that would be doing an injustice to an island that has practically unlimited potential. Following is a selection of three must-see sights – apart from the beaches, of course – for your next trip to the island. Our choice is based on several criteria, not just its touristic appeal. Here, then, is our ranking:
3) Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park
The Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park complex is one of the most stunning sites in Gran Canaria. It lies in the heart of Gáldar’s town centre (Calle Audiencia, 2), in the north of the island. The approach road is therefore the same one leading into the historic centre.
The Painted Cave was discovered in 1862 as a result of agricultural earthwork. The cave interior is huge, its walls richly decorated with all kinds of geometric symbols. The archaeological complex is currently made up of six caves carved out by the ancient dwellers of Gran Canaria, and remains of red ochre can still be seen adorning the walls and ceiling.
The various archaeological projects implemented around the Painted Cave in recent years revealed the presence of a terrace-built country home. The outworks connect the bottom of the gulley to the town’s historic centre, forming what was one of the quarters in the pre-Hispanic Agáldar settlement.
2) Teror Town Centre
The origins of Teror predate the island’s conquest by the Crown of Castile in the 15th century. Indeed, the place-name is derived from the indigenous word Aterura, Therore or Terori, the meaning of which is unknown.
The town’s history and development are closely linked to the Marian apparition of the Virgin of the Pine and the existence of a shrine dating from 1514. However, writings containing references to its station as a centre of pilgrimage do not emerge until two centuries after its foundation.
The “Villa Mariana de Teror” was designated an Art History Complex in 1979, turning it into one of the leading tourist destinations in the island’s interior. Folk traditions and beautiful, meticulously designed houses go hand-in-hand in the streets of Teror, noted for the views they afford of typical Canarian balconies.
A stroll through the historic centre of the town should start willy-nilly at the square of Nuestra Señora del Pino, alongside the church. You can get there quickly from the parking lot by crossing the square above it and heading down Calle Obispo Marquina. If you’re travelling by bus, it stops on the east side of the precinct, so you only need to continue along the Calle Real to the square at the end.
1) The Guayadeque Gorge
The Guayadeque Gorge lies between the towns of Agüimes and Ingenio, in the east of Gran Canaria. The area is of great environmental value and has a rich heritage, leading it to be designated a Natural Monument and an Asset of Cultural Interest – categorised as an “Archaeological Area” – a distinction granted it by the Canary Islands’ Law of Historical Heritage.
The road running through the gorge winds among spectacular cliffs awash with a large variety of pre-Hispanic archaeological deposits and sites, prominent among them being the settlement known as Bermeja Cave.
Housed there is the Guayadeque Gorge Information Centre, open every day except Monday, where you can find out about the archaeological sites in the area and glean a lot of other interesting information about this priceless spot. Visitors will also be able to learn more about the rich, natural fauna and flora in the gorge.
Towards the end of the road winding through the Guayadeque gorge you will come to a number of restaurants set in the rock face itself. The most popular of them is El Centro, comprising a cave complex that creates a unique setting for a restaurant. They offer an extensive menu with dishes representative of Canary Island cuisine, featuring such specialities as fried pork, mixed grill and barbecued pork.
Fancy discovering it for yourself? Check out our flights here.
Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria
Transylvania – More Than Just Dracula
Whenever Transylvania is mentioned, the name Dracula springs to mind. Whether for better or for worse, that’s the way it is. Bram Stoker couldn’t have suspected what he was about to unleash when he wrote Dracula, a novel that would go down in history, inspired by the figure of Vlad Tepes. Neither would he have imagined he was going to turn Transylvania – where part of the story unfolds – into a tourist destination for vampire enthusiasts, particularly since his writing was based on literary sources, as he never actually visited the region.
However, when considering a trip to Transylvania, we need to lift the Gothic veil from our eyes and look further afield. Granted, reminders of Vlad Tepes are present, but there are also magnificent landscapes awaiting us, as well as medieval towns with priceless coloured houses, friendly people and the odd medieval castle, which would only conjure up horror stories with a concerted flight of the imagination.
Brasov
Transylvania is famed for having the best preserved medieval towns in Europe, so make sure you visit the historic town of Brasov, packed with charming spots. A major landmark is the Old Town Square (Piata Sfatului), where you can visit the History Museum, housed in the old Town Hall. Another must-see is the Biserica Neagră or Black Church, so called on account of the blackened walls caused by a fire there in 1689. This huge Gothic church, one of the largest in south-eastern Europe, houses an important collection of Turkish rugs hanging from its galleries.
The Fortified Church of Prejmer
This original monument, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, lies some 18 km from Brasov in Prejmer, a place marked by protracted wars during the Middle Ages, owing to its proximity to the border. The fortified church, dating from the 13th century, attests to the turmoil of those times. It has 4-metre-thick walls rising 12 metres, rendering it impregnable to the 50 times it was besieged. The precinct provided shelter for the townsfolk during military assaults, with rooms to lodge in and defensive towers which also acted as storage areas for provisions.
Bran Castle
In the mountains of Bucegi and Piatra Craiului, some 30 km from Brasov, stands one of the most visited landmarks in Transylvania. This castle is usually associated with the figure of Vlad Tepes, and it was mistakenly said to be his place of residence. We owe this confusion to Bram Stoker, who turned it into Dracula’s residence in his novel. That is why it is popularly thought to be Dracula’s castle. Aside from the world of vampires, this castle, built by the Saxons in 1382, is well worth the visit, with much of its splendour remaining intact.
Poenari Castle
Those who wish to see the true place of residence of Vlad the Impaler should visit this castle. It was built in the early-13th century and abandoned in the mid-17th. Unlike the previous castle, this one lies partly in ruins and access is rather more difficult, as you have walk up no less than 1,500 stairs! However, once at the top, the spectacular view of the Carpathian Mountains more than makes up for the effort.
Sighisoara
Situated in the centre of Romania, in the Transylvanian Carpathians, this is a popular tourist resort, and not only for being the birthplace of Vlad Tepes. Sighisoara has a well preserved, fortified medieval citadel, which has deservedly earned its designation as a World Heritage site. Fourteen of the original fortified towers are still standing. You should also visit the Clocktower, and go up to the top to see the view over the town. And, needless to say, those in search of the gruesome past can visit what is believed to be the house where Vlad the Impaler was born.
Sibiu
Founded by Saxon settlers in the 12th century, it is one of Transylvania’s major economic and cultural hubs. Sited on the banks of the river Cibin, it has an Old Town redolent with cobbled streets, medieval houses, large squares, cafés and remains of the original fortified wall. Sibiu is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the latter featuring the most interesting landmarks. Make sure you visit the Piaţa Mare or Great Square, housing one of Romania’s paramount Baroque monuments, the Brukenthal Palace. Other sights include the Piaţa Mică or Small Square, and the Huet Square, surrounded by mainly Gothic buildings, most notably the Lutheran Evangelical Cathedral.
Ready to visit the other face of Transylvania? Book your Vueling here!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Dennis Jarvis, Camil Ghircoias, Alexandru Panoiu, Daniel Tellman
more info11 Things to See and Do in Nantes
By Marlys Schuermann Easy Hiker
Nantes is one of the many charming and interesting small French towns you have to discover. You can easily spend a leisurely week-end there and keep yourself busy sight-seeing the town, either on foot or renting a Bicloo (the equivalent of a Velib in Paris.)
What to See and Where to Go
1. The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany and Nantes, which is now a museum. If the weather is fine, you can even settle yourselves on the grassy moat surrounding the castle, either to picnic, play or just to soak in the sun.
2. Make sure you go inside the castle and perhaps look into that well and make a wish.
3. The gothic Cathedral, famous for being the most beautifully restored cathedral in France.
4. Enjoy a stroll at the Place Royale, where right and left, you will find open-air cafes for your coffee break.
5. Bike to or take the tramway line no. 1, to the Gare Maritime to catch a Navibus (river boat) to bring you to the old fishing village of Trentemoult.
6. There are no more working fishermen in Trentemoult but it is worth the while to see the quaint houses and ruelles still surviving.
7. The Ile de Nantes, where “Le Jardin des Machines” is located, is one destination you cannot and would not want to miss, mainly to see and perhaps take a ride on its most popular attraction, the Giant Mechanical Elephant.
To savour the spectacle, I would recommend for you to stay on the ground and just watch the mechanical pachyderm trumpet out steam and slowly stroll around the park.
8. After all that excitement with this circus, you can go back to the mainland and visit the Passage Pomeraye, a 3-level 19th century shopping arcade.
9. See the objects the chocolatiers of Maison Larnicol created out of chocolate – a lady’s stiletto, a handbag, two giant lipsticks and a replica Jaguar.
10. Right near Nantes central train station is the famous Tour de LU. It was in Nantes that the biscuit factory of LU had its main site but has since been turned into a theatre/museum.
On your visit to the old fishing village Trentemoult, you must have seen their sign, too.
11. And where to eat when in Nantes? At the Brasserie La Cigale, of course (4, Place Graslin.) This restaurant has served good food for almost 115 years. Be part of their history. Best to reserve if going for dinner or go after 14h00 to be sure of getting a table. They’re open all day (07h30-00h30)
To help you go and see more of Nantes, check out their Tourism Bureau’s advice HERE.
Image: Dyhorus
By Marlys SchuermannEasy Hiker
Somewhere well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more info