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The Esmorçaret Route in Valencia

Any traveller stopping over at the city on the river Túria has their sightseeing venues cut out for them – The City of Arts and Sciences, The Cathedral, El Miguelete, The Silk Exchange, The Central Market, Torres de Serrano, Torres de Quart, The Port, The Bioparc – if you have kids in tow –  and, of course, The Albufera. Needless to say, all this should be accompanied by a good paella for lunch, and an horchata for afternoon tea.

But, Valencia is a lot more than this. Indeed, locals delight in a practice which is almost a religion – what is known here as the esmorçaret, a mid-morning sandwich with freshly baked bread, accompanied by a dish of olives or nuts, a beer and coffee… all for less than five euros.

Here is a our recommendation of 8 must-visit bars where you will gradually become adepts of that healthy practice which is usually indulged in between ten and twelve o’clock in the morning.

For Omelette Lovers

Bar Alhambra. Every day Benito, the owner of this small bar in the Juan Llorens area, prepares an average of six, two-and-a-half-kilo omelettes. The main kind is the potato omelette, but you can also choose between potato and onion, as well as potato and spring garlic, potato and sobrasada, (a spicy, pork sausage) and potato and morcilla (blood sausage),among others. Another of their finger-licking specialities is the apaleao (dry-cured pork loin).

Bar Rojas Clemente. Hidden in one of the city’s smallest markets, its bar counter provides a spectacle of myriad types of omelette, scrambled eggs, sausage and savoury pies, a local classic. Be sure to try the goat’s-milk cheese, candied-tomato and spinach omelette.

Under the Valencian Sun

Kiosco La Pérgola. Located in the tranquil, sought-after Paseo de la Alameda, this is one of the city’s classic venues, both for its food and sunny terrace. The “bombón” is the star bite – with pork loin, mushrooms, cheese and a special sauce. You can also elect to order the sandwich with just mushrooms, or with grouper or liver, which in La Pérgola is a whole delicacy.

Size Rules

Bodega La Pascuala. All the rage among elevenses devotees, this venue is located in the seafaring quarter of El Cabañal, just a stone’s throw from La Malvarrosa Beach. Their star performer is the “Súper”, an oversize sandwich comprising a whole stick of bread, with horse meat, onion, bacon, cheese and typical Catalan tomato bread. The peanuts and olives are on the house.

Michelin-Starred Brunch

Central Bar. A Michelin-starred elevenses is also doable. Run by the acclaimed chef, Ricard Camarena, this bar is in the amazing Central Market in El Carmen District, the city’s historic centre. The star sandwich is named after Ricard Camarena himself and features pork fillet, onion, cheese and mustard – a festival of flavours!

A Classic – Calamari Sandwich

Casa Mundo. Founded in 1953 by a football player and Valencia CF’s greatest ever goal-scorer, Edmundo Suárez “Mundo”, this bar in the city centre has held out admirably against the invasion of franchises. Noteworthy is their famous calamari sandwich, but also the blanco y negro (black and white) with broad beans, as well as the chivito (steakburger) and pepito de pisto (ratatouille meat sandwich), which has been made to the same recipe for over 50 years.

La Piulà. A wealth of sandwiches with juicy, crisp, homemade batter-fried calamari. The optional condiment is a mild mayonnaise. Also well worth trying is their ciclista, made of ham, omelette and tomato as the main ingredients.

Hidden in the Historic City

Tasca Ángel. The last stop on our route is a secluded venue near the Mercat Central (Central Market), a few metres away from La Lonja (Silk Exchange). This bar features what are possibly the best sardines in town – their great draw and speciality – but they have other delicacies worth trying, too. From griddled vegetables to tapas you’d be hard put to find elsewhere, notably the riñoncitos (kidneys) and lleterola (gizzard), a favourite in the Horta Valenciana rural district. Oh, and don’t pass up theirajo arriero(salt cod, potato and garlic paste).

Check out your Vueling here and join the culture of the “esmorçaret”.

Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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Splendour Nobility & Beauty on the Loire

About an hour’s journey from Paris lies the Loire Valley, an area of vital importance in France’s history and one of the country’s fortes when it comes to tourism. The valley played a vital strategic role in the past – while it was there that, in the Middle Ages, defence works were first erected to contain the Vikings, centuries later it was the setting for the bloody battle between the English and French during the Hundred Years’ War. The reign of Charles VII marked a turning point for this beautiful valley as it was then that it reached its moment of maximum splendour and became the favourite haunts of the French nobility. They embarked on a spectacular spree of castle building on rural lands, the castles becoming veritable recreational grounds for giving free rein to their hedonistic urges. Subsequently, the French Revolution wrought havoc among most of them, leading to the loss of a considerable portion of the area’s heritage. The castles were later restored with a view to recovering their bygone splendour and they have now become one of France’s leading tourist attractions.

According to the association, “Châteaux de la Loire, Vallée des Rois” (Castles of the Loire, Valley of the Kings), which is tasked with managing the Loire Valley’s heritage, the region boasts some 70 listed sites which, in addition to castles, also include abbeys, churches and museums. Clearly, it would be madness to attempt seeing it all in one go. Visitors usually make a selection of sites to see before their tour. Here, then, are some of the standout castles:

Château de Chambord This former hunting lodge of King Francis I is one of the kingpins of the French Renaissance in which the medieval tradition blends seamlessly with classical Italian structures. It is one of the largest and most popular castles on the route. The forest of chimneys towering over the rooftop and the double spiral staircase in the interior are absolutely stunning.

Château de Cheverny Belonging to the Hurault family, is also dates from the Renaissance and is noteworthy for its interior decoration. Curiously enough, the building was the source of inspiration for Hergé, the creator of Tintin, when he drewChâteau de Moulinsart(Marlinspike Hall).

Château de Chenonceau Also known as “The Ladies’ Chateau”, it is a veritable icon on the Loire châteaux route and one of the most widely visited. Built in the 16th century, one of its most striking features is its location, spanning the river Cher.

Château de BloisThe official residence of the French Kings during the Renaissance. Of the many tales that arose around it is one that claims Joan of Arc was blessed in its chapel before leading her army out to relieve the besieged city of Orleans. It now operates as a museum.

Château d'AmboiseOriginally a medieval fortress, it was turned into a royal residence during the reigns of Charles VIII and Francis I. Its claim to fame is that Leonardo da Vinci was buried here after spending the last three years of his life in the castle.

Château de Langeais – Regarded as the oldest fortress in France, much of its medieval charm remains intact, including the drawbridge, which strikes a marked contrast with the Renaissance style of the west facade.

Château de Chaumont One of its numerous owners was Catherine de Medici who counted Nostradamus among the many guests she entertained there. The garden, designed by Henri Duchêne, is where an annual International Garden Festival is currently hosted from late April to mid-October.

Five days is considered to be the minimum amount of time you need to spend on a Loire Valley itinerary. You can plan a linear route, starting from a point nearest Paris and ending on the far side (or the other way around), or stay in one of the major cities along the route, like Orleans, Blois and Tours, and make sorties from there to various landmark sites you have chosen. The most comfortable way to get around is by car, although there are other alternatives, including availing yourself of the many bus tours to be had, and combining them to suit your agenda. The fittest among you can opt to tour these lands by bicycle, taking advantage of the comparatively flat terrain.

Be sure to take a flight to Paris and head for one of these valleys with their pedigree collection of castles.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Thomas Steiner, Benh LIEU SONG, MFSG, Jean-Christophe BENOIST

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In Search of the Best Scotch

Scotland offers many reasons for visiting – beautiful scenery, like in the Highlands, and beautiful lakes, like Lochs Lomond, Tummel, Duich and Ness, the latter with monster included. Not to mention such cultural events as the Edinburgh Festival, during which the city is filled with theatre, music and dance, and the chance to discover its writers, notably Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson and Irvine Welsh. And – you guessed it – the land’s magnificent whisky. Celtic in origin, this distillation is the epitome of Scottish identity traits – bagpipes and kilts notwithstanding. Scotch is also one of the country’s greatest moneyspinners and stands out as a major attraction for visitors to this land. Newcomers will have the opportunity to make their whisky debut in style, while connoisseurs have the unique occasion to become experts while treating themselves to the huge gamut of tastes and aromas.

Known as uisge beatha (water of life) in Gaelic, whisky is made from the distillation of fermented malt, generally barley, although other grains such as wheat, rye and corn can also be used. The distillation is aged in an oak cask for at least three years. Scotch is classified into the following types – single malt, vatted malt (or pure malt), blended and single grain, single malt being the most highly valued.

A good way of coming to grips with everything related to this popular Scottish beverage is by heading for Edinburgh to visit the Scotch Whisky Experience, a centre located in the Old Town, adjacent to Edinburgh Castle, where you can learn all the ins and outs of scotch. Once you have mastered the basics, you are ready to venture into one of the myriad distilleries scattered about the country. To help get your bearings, you should know that Scotland is divided into five whisky-producing regions. And, as in the case of wine, each region has its own characteristics.

In the region of the Lowlands, in the south of the country, the whisky they produce is mild, light and unsmoky, making it ideal for blends. As it lacks the malt character of the other regions, it is less popular and is produced by a fewer number of distilleries.

Speyside, named after the river Spey which traverses it, is the leading whisky-producing region and the venue for most organised distillery tours. The world’s most popular malts are produced here. One of the must-visit distilleries is Cardhu, located near Archiestown and founded by the whisky smuggler John Cumming in 1824. Glenfiddich, situated in Dufftown, is the only distillery where the distillation, ageing and bottling processes take place on the same premises. At Craigellachie we find the Macallan distillery, which also dates from 1824. Here, the whisky was originally aged in Spanish sherry casks. It set the record for having produced one of the most expensive bottles of liquor ever sold when it fetched $54,000 at an auction. Lastly, the Glenlivet distillery near Ballindalloch is considered to produce one of the finest malts in the region.

The largest region in terms of size and whisky output is the Highlands, situated in the north of Scotland. One of our favourite distilleries here is Oban, located in picturesque Oban Bay, opposite the seafront, which has been producing its excellent malt since 1794. Still in this area, we come to the sub-region known as The Islands which is worth visiting for two gems – the Jura distillery, sited on the island of the same name – an eminently family concern, which has been producing excellent malt whisky since 1810 – and Talisker, located on the priceless island of Skye.

Campbeltown, a region which once boasted up to thirty distilleries, now has only three distilleries in operation.

Lastly, we come to the region of Islay, located on Scotland’s west coast, which is known above all for its smoky whiskies. We recommend a visit to Bowmore, which has one of the first distilleries to be set up on the island, and where the malt is still produced using traditional methods, and Port Ellen, home to the Lagavulin distillery, built in 1816.

Now that you know some of the best whisky distilleries in Scotland, book your Vueling to Edinburgh and get to experience them first-hand.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Cls With Attitude, Sem Shnaider, Rob Schulze, Kkonstan, Stephane Farenga, lynjardine, 82Gab

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Eastenders: Spitalfields, Sunday Up Market, Brick Lane

The place to be seen today, the new glamour zone of the East End, is found between the Spitalfields, theSunday Up Market andBrick Lane, markets housing loads of vintage shops, arts and crafts, jewellery and little stalls selling all types of food where you can wander around at will.

Brick Lane

Its name comes from the street that used to be the home of the brick and tile factory. The southern half is home to part of the Bangladeshi community, with a large number of touristy curry houses, food and material shops which is why the street is commonly known as Banglatown, while the northern half is bursting with unique and original shops.

Don’t miss the famous bagels from Beigel Bake at Number 159Brick Lane, open 23 hours a day.

The Carpenters Arms

The pub, The Carpenter’s Arms, situated in Cheshire Street, has a romantic story associated with it. The Kray twins, Reggie and Ronnie, the most famous gangsters of London’s East End, bought it in 1967 and gave it to their mother as a present.

The tale came to an end with their life imprisonment sentence. On 11 October 2000 Reggie Kray’s funeral took place all along Cheshire Street.
They say that such was his black sense of humour that they built the bar out of coffin lids.
Today, The Carpenter’s Arms is a welcoming pub with more than fifty brands of beer to choose from and a wonderful clientele that keep the story of the Kray brothers alive.
The current owners, Eric and Nigel, managed to rescue the pub at the beginning of the century from being turned into housing. They found the place completely ruined – apart from the famous bar made of coffin lids.

The Carpenters Bar
www.carpentersarmsfreehouse.com
73 Cheshire Street

Beyond Retro

Cheshire Street is dotted with a wide variety of vintageshops and young designers, but at Number 110 you will find one of the biggest, a huge second-hand clothing warehouse where you can lose yourself picking through an enormous hoard of boots, t-shirts, dresses as well as all types of gadgets.

Beyond Retro
110-112 Cheshire St.
www.beyondretro.com/

Vibe Bar

The Vibe Bar shares its entrance with theOld Truman Brewery, that in past times used to be home to London’s largest brewery. From its pleasant terrace you climb the steps to 4 large areas in which they hold exhibitions, reggae and experimental music concerts and DJ sessions. The inside of the bar is decorated with graffiti art, big sofas and a few antique gaming machines. In September is hosts the Brick Lane Music Festival.

Vibe Bar
91-95 Brick Lane
www.vibe-bar.co.uk

Dray Walk

In this alleyway calledDray Walk we find the Cafe 1001 with its rustic wooden terrace alongside one of the three Rough Trade shops in London where you can find the best selection of vinyl and CDs as well as café and sofas where you can relax and connect to internet.

Al Volo

Opposite one of the entrances toSunday Up Market, is the Al Volo , where you can enjoy excellent Italian food.

Al Volo
Hanbury Street
www.alvolo.co.uk

Sunday Up Market

Sunday Up Market is the coolest market of the moment.

During the week it’s just a car park, but on Sundays it’s full of people, with more than 200 stalls over two floors selling clothes, jewellery, food and music.

Sunday Up Market
www.sundayupmarket.co.uk

The Golden Heart

Strategically placed on the intersection of Commercial Street and Hanbury Street and just oppositeSpitalfieldsMarket, The Golden Heart is the perfect place from which to watch everything going on in the area and to have a rest.

However it’s fair to say that the regular locals have gradually gone to be replaced with groups of young people visiting the neighbourhood.

The Golden Heart
84 Commercial Street

Spitalfield Market

Located in a beautiful Victorian building, Spitalfields Market started trading in 1682 and is open every day from 11:00 to 15:00 and on Sundays from 09:30 to 17:30.

It used to be the preferred location for lovers of vintage clothing, a place where urban fashion can be picked up for a good price, but lately it has become a tourist attraction with shops and restaurants. The young designers’ stalls have moved to the Old Truman Brewery in the Sunday Up Market.

In any case, even if you don’t plan on buying anything, it’s still worth the visit.

Ten Bells

The Ten Bells is the living history of the famous Jack the Ripper. The pub is on the corner of Commercial Street and Fournier Street in Spitalfields. Although the façade has changed, the interior has remained much the same as it did when it used to be frequented by Jack the Ripper. On one of the walls of the pub a beautiful mosaic has been conserved: “Spitalfields in the Olden Time” that is definitely worth a visit. We’d also like to point out that the pub has a wall displaying a list of the victims, as well as press cuttings, of the notorious Ripper. ..

Ten Bells
84 Commercial Street

Christ Church Spitalfields

A pretty Anglican church is situated close to the famous Spitalfields Market. It was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of the Royal architectChristopher Wren, who reconstructed the English capital after the Great Fire of London.

Christ Church Spitalfields
84 Commercial St
www.christchurchspitalfields.org

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