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Budapest – The Gastrohipster Mecca

Where Hipsters Converge – the Jewish Quarter
One of the liveliest areas of Budapest, where you come across a smashing eatery at every step, whether classical or hip. One of the most charming restaurants offering traditional cuisine is the Spinoza Café, with its intimate lighting and walls bedecked with vintage illustrations. The menu features Jewish specialities such as hummus, and the essential Hungarian dishes like goulash, a popular beef stew usually accompanied with spätzle, an unevenly shaped type of noodle. Dinner ends with one of Hungary’s most typical liqueurs, pálinka, a potent but digestive spirit which is here displayed in a priceless giant bottle on the bar counter.

If you prefer something more contemporary, there is no dearth of options. Like the Street Food Karaván, a concentration of dedicated food trucks and kiosks where you can grab a bite at their shared, open-air tables. The homemade hamburgers of Zing Burger will not disappoint either. Other options with a roof over your head include Situ (Kazinczy, 32), with a French touch, Vintage Garden, feminine and romantic, 3, Három, Three (Kazinczy, 3), informal and cool, and Doblo, a cheerful wine bar.

End off the night with a drink at one of the “ruin bars”,one of the most unusual concepts in Budapest. They are located in derelict buildings, reclaimed by young people and turned into bars with a hint of the underground and a big helping of imagination – creativity has taken over where funding reaches its limits. The most famed ruin bar is Szimpla Kert, with its entertaining, enveloping atmosphere.

Where To Eat In Buda: Baltazár Grill
While Pest is more dynamic, don’t leave the city without visiting Buda Castle and its stunning views. Here we recommend you eat at the Baltazár Grill, a hip bistro with its striking painting by Basquiat. They serve modernised Hungarian dishes (their paprika chicken and goulash soup are excellent) and marvellous hamburgers made in a Josper grill. The other side of the restaurant is a cosy wine bar where you can try some great Hungarian wines.

Where the Beautiful People Go – Menza
This restaurant is all the rage now. A blend of retro and futuristic aesthetics featuring an eclectic, contemporary and international menu with room for pasta, sandwiches, various meat dishes and even the odd fish dish – bear in mind that Budapest is a predominantly meat-eating city.

Where To Delight In Bistros With Charm
The bistro formula is in vogue in the Hungarian capital. After Costes and Onyx, the third restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star was the Borkonyha bistro, with a relaxed ambience but impeccable cuisine. Alongside the priceless Central Market stands the splendid Borbíróság, offering modern market cuisine and over a hundred quality Hungarian wines served by the glass. Highly recommendable is the duck and cherry ragout with potato and Cheddar cheese, and their foie gras beef with ratatouille and roast potatoes. Other bistros you will enjoy include Terminal, sited in an erstwhile bus station, and Zona, with beautiful interior design and Hungarian dishes with an international flourish.

Afternoon Tea – Cafés With Character
Tradition rules in one of the cities with the greatest pastry expertise. Before leaving Budapest, make a point of having afternoon tea in the stylish New York Café, housed in a 19th-century neo-Baroque palace where you will find it difficult to stop taking snaps… until you try one of their pastries, of course! Also classical but more sober is the Gerbeaud, one of the city’s most acclaimed pastry cafés. Make sure you try one of the local specialities, which are of exceptional quality here – the Dobos cake, made of fine layers of sponge, chocolate cream and a caramel topping.

Where To Sleep – Eurostars Budapest Center
This four-star Spanish hotel chain has an unrivalled siting on the edge of the Jewish Quarter and a stone’s throw away from the Danube. Housed in a Communist-era building, the rooms are spacious, bright, functional and elegant at affordable prices. The self-service breakfast is copious and varied, and the common areas comfortable, but the best thing is the service – they are helpful and, if you require a booking, they do it for you… and they speak Spanish!

 

Text and photos: Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)

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Budapest The Spa City

Budapest is said to be one of the most beautiful capitals in Europe, and with good reason. The rise of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1867 and the subsequent union between the cities of Buda and Pest turned the newfound metropolis into one of the continent’s leading magnets. Aside from its grand avenues, luxury palaces and bridges over the Danube, its appeal lies in its 118 springs spouting 70 million litres of water a day, at temperatures that vary from 20°C to 78°C.

The Spa City

Budapest has more thermal and medicinal water wells than any other world capital, earning it the title of “Spa City” in 1934. However, the properties of those waters have been known since ancient times. The Romans built thermal complexes during the period they settled there, as did the Ottoman Turks. Vestiges such as the Turkish baths have been preserved until today and are still operating at full steam.

However, the real boom in spa resorts took place in the early-20th century, coinciding with an upsurge in the city’s development and the foresight behind the decision to harness these waters for treating all kinds of diseases.

Planning Your Visit

Nowadays thousands of Budapesters and tourists from all over Hungary and the rest of the world come to delight in the city’s waters. There are obviously more spa guests in summer, but any time of the year is suitable for having a dip.

Each spa has its house rules, but most of them hire towels, have lockers for storing your clothes, and provide swimming caps. Check out the website of each establishment when planning your visit. While most resorts are mixed, some have different days or times of the day for men and women.

Here are the five thermal baths you simply cannot fail to visit:

Gellert

Remember that famous Danone advertisement from the early nineties, in which some hard-bodied models were swimming in a dream pool? Well, the pool in question happens to be the main one in the historic Gellert spa baths. Built in 1918, it is one of the city’s most elegant. It boasts 9 therapeutic pools, including a thermal bath, a bubble pool, a paddling pool and even a wave pool, flanked by statues and adorned with mosaics and stained glass windows.

It is also one of the more expensive baths. Admission varies from 3,800 to 4,200 forints (€13.20 to €14.60), but you simply can’t leave the city without visiting it.

Széchenyi

Inaugurated in 1913, it is one of the largest thermal bath complexes in Europe and the most popular one in Budapest among tourists. This does not, however, detract one bit from its charm. Bathing in one of the large outdoor thermal pools at Széchenyi is a wonderful experience. And, as it is the only spa in the Pest side of the river, you can sightsee this area before heading to the baths.

The admission fee depends on the services you hire, varying from 2,900 to 3,750 Hungarian forints (€10.10 to €13.05).

Rudas

Built by the Ottoman Turks in 1550, the Rudas Baths feature an octagonal pool covered by a dome, transporting one to A Thousand and One Nights. This spa is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays for men only, and on Tuesdays for women (wearing a swimming costume is not required). Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays are mixed. One option is to visit the spa baths on Friday or Saturday evening and extend your stay into the night at the Romkert, open from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. It is an open-air disco where you will be dancing at the foot of Mt Gellért.

Király

Together with Rudas, the Király are the most famous Turkish thermal baths. Opened in 1565, they resemble the Rudas Baths, although on a smaller scale, so you are advised to book ahead and take your own towels with you. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays are set aside for men and indeed this spa has become one of the major gathering places for gays. Király is also among the more economical baths in Budapest: 1,300 HUF (€4.50).

Lukács

Specialising in digestive disorders, the Lukács are famous for having been a meeting place for intellectuals in the 1950s and for being one of most popular resorts among tourists. With its seven pools set in a beautiful park, this is one of the best spots for coming into touch with Budapest society.

Now all that’s left is to pack your swimsuit and get ready for a dip. Check out our flights here.


Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Düsseldorf – the Cradle of Modern Electronic Music

Düsseldorf is the capital of North Rhine-Westphalia. In the mid-19th century it experienced economic growth fuelled by the Industrial Revolution. During the Second World War, the city was practically reduced to rubble but, thanks to the German miracle, it soon became one of the economic powerhouses of the Federal Republic of Germany.

Düsseldorf – Centre of the Avant-Garde Universe

Brian Eno once said that the Neu! experimental rock band from Düsseldorf was one of the three most inventive beats of the sixties, together with Fela Kuti’s afrobeat and James Brown’s funk. In the late sixties and early seventies, a characteristic Düsseldorf sound started to take shape, based on elements of early rock combined with those of experimental rock. Michael Rother and Klaus Dinger were the pioneers and both of them were members of Neu!, a reference model in the development of the endless machine beat typical of krautrock and, subsequently, in the early creation of Kraftwerk, the primogenitors of modern electronic music. Dinger is also credited with being the originator of themotorik beat, a rhythmic pattern based on a regular, mechanical and repetitive beat. Rother, for his part, also worked with Dieter Moebius and Hans-Joachim Roedelius, members of Cluster; they later teamed up to found Harmonia.

Kling Klang Studio

Ralf Hütter of Kraftwerk once said that the synthesizer is a psychoanalytic machine. Indeed, synths were the instruments that nourished the music of this German band, who also happened to design the world’s most modern studio in a flash. They called it the Kling Klang Studio, sited in the centre of Düsseldorf. The project was started by Ralf Hütter and Florian Schneider in 1970, but was not finished until 1975, an event marked by the release of the record, “Radio-Activity”. During the eighties, the studio was refurbished according to a modular rack design, with a view to being taken along on their forthcoming tour. It was originally sited at 16 Mintropstrasse, but in 2009 it was relocated to Meerbusch-Osterath, some 10 kilometres from Düsseldorf. This move has enabled the studio and office to be located on the same premises. The new Kling Klang includes a rehearsal room for preparing concerts.

Kunstsammlung NRW

This is where, in 2013, Kraftwerk embarked on their current 3D tour which is taking them to emblematic places across the globe to present their daring visual show, during which the audience require 3D glasses to get a much more intense sensorial experience. At Kunstsammlung, art is the central focus. The backbone of the collection is made up of 88 works by Paul Klee, while the rest are highly valuable contemporary artworks.

The Düsseldorf Scene Today

The electronic scene is currently not as solid as it was a few years ago. Loco Dice is a local artist with some international acclaim within the minimal scene headquartered here – the Desolat label. Another label based in the city is Themes for Great Cities, the home of Wolf Müller, a project by Jan Schulte, one of the most restless souls on the local electronic scene at the moment and a direct heir to the Düsseldorf sound.

Salon Des Amateurs is undoubtedly one of the most interesting clubs in the city. It is located in the heart of the art community, namely the Kunshalle, an exhibition space specialising in contemporary art. When entering the premises, one is struck by the Max Ernst sculpture. Here, the kraut tradition blends with the most select electronic avant-garde. At “The Salon”, as it is known here, the whole liturgy of dance takes place. Two of the resident DJs are Jan Schulte and Detlef Weinrich, from the legendary elektronische musik group Kreidler, who pioneered a fusion of ambient, post rock and IDM in the nineties, although their sessions are characterised by a mix of krautrock, African percussion and cosmic jazz. The name is drawn from the Salon organised by the Société Des Artistes Français, an association of French painters and sculptors who held annual events featuring the work of non-professional artists. This was the spirit of the venue in its early years, marked by a certain degree of anarchy, as reflected in the type of audience that frequented the event, from professors in their sixties to teenage skaters. Loco Dice’s Desolat label is headquartered here and makes the club the cradle of the city’s techno once again. The mission of Salon Des Amateursis to take up where Creamcheese left off as a progressive music disco, heir to the non-objective art movement that set in during the late sixties and turned out to be essential to the birth and development of the krautrock style. Then there is Ratinger Hof, a refurbished pub near the Kunstakademie, which became the epicentre of the punk movement in the seventies and eighties, and was graced by bands of the stature of Kraftwerk, Neu! and DAF.It now operates more as a club and the audience is mostly young. Speaking of clubs, most of the ones that hosted electronic underground have now closed down. Only the 102, known as Kiesgrube during the summer season, is still going strong.

Come and experience the effervescent music scene in Düsseldorf. Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Kraftwerk, Kunstsammlung, Salon Des Amateurs

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A Route Through the Literary Capital

The beauty or darkness of some cities is capable of awakening the muses, spawning some unforgettable literary works. This is true of Edinburgh, with a literary impact that led it to be listed as the first UNESCO City of Literature in the world, in 2004. The honour is well deserved, bearing in mind the large number of writers who were born or lived here, in addition to fiction characters that have made their way into our lives. Ready to walk in the footsteps they have left in this city?

1. The Scott Monument

Sir Walter Scott is a prominent writer of British romanticism, famed for creating the historic novel genre. His major works include Ivanhoe, Rob Roy and Waverley. One of the most highly valued writer among Edinburghers themselves, his memory in the city is ever-present. This is attested by the Scott Monument,a Victorian Gothic temple built between 1840 and 1844. Being 61.1 metres high, it affords magnificent views over the city, although you have to climb 287 steps to get there. You have been warned!

2. Deacon Brodie’s Tavern

We are indebted to Robert Louis Stevenson for having taken us on a voyage to Treasure Island and created a character to delight any psychologist in the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. The protagonist of the latter is based on the figure of Deacon Brodie, a respectable businessman from the 18th century who suffered from the mental disorder of dual personality. Sited on the Royal Mile, Deacon Brodie’s Tavern is a pub which pays tribute to this novel and its main character. Don’t hesitate to go inside to have a few pints and taste their haggis, a Scottish delicacy based on spiced meat innards, served with turnip and mashed potato.

3. The Sherlock Holmes Statue

Who is the most famous detective of all time? The first person who comes to mind is bound to be Sherlock Holmes. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, his creator, was inspired by the figure of Professor Joseph Bell, famed for his analytical powers of deduction. The Sherlock Holmes Statue is located in Picardy Place, where the house in which Conan Doyle was born once stood. Also in that square is The Conan Doyle, a pub dedicated to the writer and the perfect excuse to savour the wonderful pints and magnificent whisky the city has to offer.

4. The Burns Monument

Robert Burns, a pioneer of the Romantic movement, is Scotland’s best known poet. His poem and – subsequently – song, Auld Lang Syne, is traditionally sung at farewells in English-speaking countries. The Burns Monument, a Greek-style templet built in 1830,is sited on Calton Hill, one of the most privileged spots in Edinburgh. It has become a veritable icon of the city and affords stunning views. Make sure you visit it!

5. The Leith Harbour District

Irvine Welsh is celebrated as the author of Trainspotting, a novel relating the irony of and miserable life led by heroin addicts. His straightforward style scored with slang led it to become a cult novel for a whole generation. The story is set in the Leith district, an area of strife at the time, as reflected in his book. Nowadays the district has changed quite a lot, although its still retains some of its roguish atmosphere. A local guided tour takes you to spots referenced in his novel which served the author with inspiration.

6. The Writers’ Museum

Those wishing to learn more about the figures of Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson should make sure they visit The Writers’ Museum. It is well worth visiting, if only for its location, as it is situated at the top end of the Royal Mile in Lady Stair’s Close. The museum houses manuscripts, books and the personal belongings of these three geniuses of Scottish literature.

7. The Elephant House

You shouldn’t leave Edinburgh without visiting The Elephant House, the tea and coffee shop where J.K. Rowling wrote some of the adventures of Harry Potter.

Ready to venture into the literary heart of Edinburgh? Check out your Vueling here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Raphaël Chekroun, Brian CK, Spixey, Alan Weir, Kyle Taylor

 

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