Experience Donosti Through Sport
Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.
I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.
More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic
In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.
But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:
Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.
Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.
Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.
Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.
If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.
As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.
San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón – the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon – and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing – in September.
Cross de las tres playas – in October.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro
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Top 5 Gastronomy Or Why Lanzarote Is An Indie Destination
“The moon? Mars? Iceland? No, it’s Lanzarote!” You will often catch yourself thinking this as you roam this fascinating island along roads traversing uninhabited places, without anyone for miles around you. You will also wonder what it might be like to live in this pleasant land of disturbing beauty, surrounded everywhere by raging Atlantic waves relished by surfers from all over the world.
Tracts of lunar land alternating with stretches of desert, and others carpeted in vegetation, where palm trees stand side by side with lava fields, wild beaches, small fishing villages and, of course, the ubiquitous seaside developments catering to mass tourism.
And, as you contemplate the impossible patterns forged by centuries of intermittent lava flows in the rocks, and you hear the roar of the waves while munching on papas con mojo,you regret that the incomprehensible tourist dynamic should have earmarked Lanzarote as the almost exclusive preserve of family holidaymakers and honeymoon couples. That is when you wish Lanzarote would bare its Indie streak, without renouncing its conventionalism, and that we “Peninsulars” – that is what we have been dubbed by the witty locals – would make the trip at least once a year to this island overflowing with charm, which also has its less predictable side. And this chart of rankings proves it.
1- El Chupadero. Its owner, Barbara, is a former model and erstwhile German New Yorker. One day in the eighties, she came across a derelict building in the middle of the island and fell prey to its charm. She decided to refurbish it with her own hands and settle there permanently, along with her two small children. That was how this restaurant was born, unwittingly hipster to the marrow, where every corner is a marvel of good taste and the menu the epitome of indigenous cuisine based on excellent produce.
2- Bar Stop. At the other end of the island, in Yaiza, lies this legendary establishment, which dates from 1890. It has a homely feel and more than reasonable prices and appears not to have changed one jot since its beginnings. Bar Stop is a place where you can enjoy deliciously rustic home cooking any time of the day while you eavesdrop on the locals chattering away – they also seem to have come fresh from 1890, brimming with friendliness and hospitality.
Plaza Ntra. Sra. de los Remedios (Yaiza).
3- La Lupe. Going to Lanzarote only to end up eating in a Mexican, considering the oodles of papas arrugadas that are shouting to get our attention, may seem rather reckless. But, once you’ve tried La Lupe’s delicatessen and sense that it comes hot from the heart of Mexico City, you realise that you have found an exceptional Mexican cuisine. Carefully crafted tacos, enchiladas, moles and other delicacies in a highly recommendable Mexican restaurant. Ideal for dining to a Tequila rhythm before lighting up the night at Noise.
4- NoiseClub Lanzarote. This is what we might term Lanzarote’s underground concert venue, whose owners fight daily to create an Indie atmosphere in the very heart of the capital, Arrecife. Noise is a small, inviting venue featuring live performances on Friday and Saturday after 11.30 p.m. Performers are often musicians from the Peninsula, in line with the open-minded approach of the artificers of Noise and their urge to bring out a less conventional side of Lanzarote. Performances are variegated, ranging from funk to techno.
5- Lagomar. One of the world’s greats who succumbed to the charms of Lanzarote was Omar Sharif. Indeed, he ended up building a formidable house at the seaside, by way of a large, stunningly beautiful fortress, now turned into a restaurant and wine bar. Every nook in the maze-like interior of Lagomar is a fiesta, from the elegant dining-room to the small bar counter surrounded by armchairs, the beautiful gardens and the pool crowning the patio. It is the ideal spot for having a well crafted glass of wine and for enjoying, any day of the week, the pleasant temperatures of Lanzarote and the anachronistic aura – in the best sense of the word – which still pervades this legendary precinct.
Where to Sleep
Sands Beach Lanzarote: This stunning, four-star resort on the Costa Teguise, just 15 minutes from the airport, will play havoc with those who have difficulty getting their bearings. Six huge swimming pools – one of which is heated – a spa, gaming hall, supermarket, activities at all hours and enormous rooms with a kitchen make up this complex with its private beach, where guests are treated like kings and prices are actually affordable.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas
more info100 Years of German History on Wheels
The BMW group is marking its 100th anniversary this year by holding a temporary exhibition showcasing the company’s history, from 1916 up to the present, through a display of 100 “masterpieces”. We travelled to Munich to witness the inauguration of this landmark exhibition. There we learned both the history of this emblematic automaker and of Germany, and retraced its technological evolution over the last century.
The Building
The museum is housed in a futuristic complex called BMW Welt, ideally located near the Olympiapark. The venue not only serves automobile enthusiasts, as it also hosts regular exhibitions on themes related to technology, design and innovation. Designed by the Austrian architect’s studio, Coop Himmelb(l)au, it took four years to build. It was originally slated to open for the final stage of the 2006 World Cup in Germany, but it wasn’t completed in time, and eventually opened a year later. It is a vibrant building as it can be adapted to a variety of uses – it can operate as a market, a communications centre and also a meeting point for the exchange of ideas.
This is a modern building designed to be experienced with the five senses. Here you can see, hear and feel technology and design. It features a permanent auto exhibition, among other content. Prominent, too, is the Junior Campus, a place where children learn how to approach technology in an entertaining and edifying manner.
The Museum
The BMW Museum is a multi-purpose space which features presentations of new BMW car models, among other things. The museum interior is arranged into key sections, namely seven great thematic areas, each set within its own environment and endowed with a distinct aesthetic. On our visit, we learned that the main idea behind the conceptualisation of the museum space was to exploit the carmaker’s history as an expression of its modern, sophisticated character, one in which innovative technology is at the forefront, and design is used to enthral at first sight. However, cars are not the only exhibits here, as you will also see motorcycles and all kinds of technology as applied to motor sports. Also on display is the latest motor invention by the Bavarian automaker.
100 Masterpieces
BMW celebrates its 100th anniversary this month, and one of the main events they are hosting is the show, 100 Masterpieces, a temporary exhibition showcasing the company’s history from 1916 to the present. To this end, 100 works have been selected to exemplify one of the most innovative companies in the world. It is a journey through different periods and the display is spectacular.
The works are displayed within a hemispherical building on five platforms which stand for five specific periods through which the company’s history is presented. As is to be expected, the exhibition starts with the first “masterpiece” of BMW – the founding in 1916 of Bayerische Motoren Werke (Bavarian Motor Works). From here on, the journey through time moves between posters of different eras, each of which closely reflects the corresponding art avant-gardes of those times. The following section is dedicated to the company staff. Here, the focus is on the legion of workers, each of whom played their part in the construction of the German colossus. This section also touches on such aspects of the business as health, architecture, internationalism, production, corporate culture and sustainability. The itinerary is chronological and gradually reveals achievements of all kinds, notably motorbikes like the incredible R35, the near-pioneering R12, the striking K1, the Dakar-winning GS, and the innovative R NineT. And, automobiles – the latest BMW 7 Series, the legendary James Bond Z8, the iconic Mini Cooper, the amazing Isetta, a period trend-setter, and the futuristic i3 and i8. They have all made history at BMW, as has the production of aircraft engines. The exhibition also features a number of milestones in motor racing. We were particularly impressed by the display of rare mock-ups, films and photographs, as well as various preliminary sketches of fantasy prototypes. In all, the exhibition goes far beyond pleasing four-wheel fanatics. It is more of a lesson in history, aesthetics, design and sociology presented in a highly attractive fashion.
Don’t pass up the chance to discover the ins and outs of one of the icons of international motoring. Check out our flights here. The exhibition runs until 30 September 2017.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Germany Travel
more infoThree Essential Hiking Trails on La Palma
La Palma is one of the most beautiful islands in the Atlantic. Unlike its sisters in the Canary Island archipelago, it is blessed with a highly fertile ecosystem endowed with outstanding natural traits, making this an idyllic island. Indigenous fauna and flora are an integral part of its spectacular scenery. Its well-kept natural environment is ideal for enjoying an alternative, exciting holiday, doing all kinds of sports and indulging in activities close to nature.
This authentic Eden for ramblers offers a host of options for hikers. Before setting out, you are advised to check the weather forecast and to avoid walking alone. Let someone know what route you are taking and the time you are due to return. You need to take a small back-pack with a warm jacket, a raincoat, food and plenty of water and don’t forget essentials such as a hat, sunblock and sunglasses, as well as a mobile phone with the battery charged, a map and, if possible, a compass. Observe the signposting along the route and keep to the track and, above all, make sure you wear proper hiking boots. You are also advised to check the gradient, walking distance and duration of the hike on the website, www.senderosdelapalma.com. Of all the various routes, we have made a selection of three, with different difficulty ratings, which will allow you to admire the aforementioned scenic diversity of "The Beautiful Island":
Puerto de Tazacorte – Roque de Los Muchachos
This itinerary has a high difficulty rating and is intended for experienced sportspeople. The main difficulty lies in the pronounced gradient. You are urged to avoid the hike in summer or on particularly hot days, while in winter, take into account that it rises to high altitudes and you may even encounter snow and ice on the Roque de los Muchachos. The route covers a distance of 17.16 kilometres, with an accumulated slope of 2,600 m. The route starts at Puerto de Tazacorte, at sea level. From there, it rises steadily for 3.8 kilometres as far as El Time. It then runs past Hoya Grande and Risco de las Pareditas, where it is wise to stop to regain your strength and take in the marvellous scenery at an altitude of 1,500 metres. There are still nearly 7 kilometres to go before reaching the end of the route, after passing through Hoya del Estrabito, Pinos Gachos and Degollada de Las Palomas, where the slope is gentler up to the finish. The high points of this route are the stunning views of the Barranco de las Angustias gorge and those of the Caldera de Taburiente from the Roque de los Muchachos.
Cubo de la Galga
This trail has a low difficulty rating and is therefore suitable for taking children along. Signposted as the GR 130, it starts and finishes at La Galga, Puntallana, at the intersection with the GR 130. The overall walking distance is 12.4 km, with an accumulated slope of 750 metres, and the estimated walking time is 3 hours 45 minutes. The route takes you through the Parque Natural de Las Nieves, a protected nature reserve so spectacular you are unlikely to switch off your camera. The trail is negotiated in two sections – one is a circular itinerary, which takes you through the most interesting area, the Cubo de la Galga temperate laurel forest, a warm, humid forest with some frost, featuring huge trees,guaco and lianas, with leaves similar to those of the laurel, hence the name. The other section connects this route to the main road orguagua, as well as to La Galga mountain, where you simply must stop off at the Somada Alta viewpoint, and the GR 130, with the option to continue on to Puntallana or Los Sauces. You can also continue down the PRLP5 footpath to the district of El Pósito, on the main road.
Valencia – Pico Bejenado – Valencia
This is ideal for visitors hiking with the family. The route is circular and, if you complete it, covers a total of 10 km, rising from 1,100 to 1,800 metres. The estimated walking time for the circuit is three hours and the whole trail is confined to the limits of La Caldera de Taburiente National Park. You can drive up to the end of the dirt road in the Valencia district. From there, you set out on foot along the PRLP 13.3 footpath as far as El Bejenado. The ascent to the summit of this mountain follows a winding trail through pine forest and takes an hour and a half. The route affords some superb views, both of the interior of La Caldera de Taburiente and towards the Route of the Volcanoes and the whole of the Aridane Valley. Also, don’t forget to sign the visitors’ book when you get there.
The above are but three of the multiple routes possible, each with a different difficulty rating, designed to take in a maximum of the island’s scenic diversity and lead us past the most emblematic spots – Pinar, Parque Nacional, Angustias, Laurisilva, Puerto Tazacorte, volcanoes, dragon trees, village where time stands still almond trees in blossom, coastal cliffs, etc. For further information, see the Patronato de Turismo de La Palma.
Don’t wait to discover La Palma – the Beautiful Island! Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by Patronato de Turismo de La Palma
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