Dürer’s Nuremberg
Albrecht Dürer’s “The praying hands” and “Young hare” are some of the most widely reproduced works in art history. But, would this great artist have liked his work to be engraved on chocolate bars or Christmas decorations? Probably not, as his paintings are featured in the most important art museums in the world. If you look close enough, some spots in the city of Nuremberg reveal traces of Albrecht Dürer.
The Artist in His Workshop
Albrecht Dürer was born on 21 May 1471 in Nuremberg and died on 6 April 1528. He is buried in Nuremberg’s Johannisfriedhof. His father, Albrecht Dürer the Elder, moved to this city from Hungary in 1455 and married the daughter of a goldsmith. Of his 19 children, only 3 males survived, all without issue.
His first self-portrait was painted in 1484 while training in his father’s goldsmithery. It is still preserved today. Since Albrecht Dürer intended to become a painter after training as a goldsmith, his father sent him to the workshop of the painter, Michael Wolgemut, between 1486 and 1490. There he learned painting, wood carving and metal engraving.
His training took him to Basel in 1492 and to Strasbourg in 1494, among other places, where he made a living by selling books. In 1494, Albrecht Dürer received a dowry of 200 florins after marrying Agnes Frey, the daughter of a Nuremberg goldsmith. This led Albrecht to open his first painting workshop. Thanks to his mother-in-law’s relatives, he was able to come into contact with the city's upper class.
A Medieval and Renaissance Man
Living in the early Renaissance led Albrecht Dürer to strive for perfection through the technological advances of the time. He was a multifaceted genius who, in addition to painting, also explored other genres such as drawing or art theory. Noteworthy are his studies of proportion, geometry and design. Here is a review of his legacy in the city of Nuremberg.
First, some of his works are exhibited at the German National Museum (Germanisches Nationalmuseum), one of the world’s most important research centres for Albrecht Dürer. This museum also features exhibits of German culture from pre-history to the 20th century, the most notable of its kind in the country. Their permanent exhibition includes works by German painters and sculptors, as well as sections on archaeology, weapons and armour, musical and scientific instruments, and even toys. This museum also features Dürer’s “Hercules kills the Stymphalian Birds”. However, if you would like to discover the painter in his everyday and creative life, nothing better than visiting his own house. Dürer lived and worked in the Albrecht-Dürer-Haus from 1509 until his death in 1528. After a multimedia performance you can follow the audio guide tour of this 4-storey house, narrated by “Agnes”, Dürer’s wife. The highlights of this visit are the interactive demonstrations of his recreated workshop, a print store on the 3rd floor, and a gallery with his originals and reproductions in the attic.
Some 150 metres down the street, a monument dedicated to the artist – the Albrecht Dürer Monument –stands in the Albrecht-Dürer-Platz. Interestingly, the Felsengänge lies beneath this monument. This is a 14th-century underground labyrinth with four levels that used to house a brewery and a wine cellar. It was used as an air-raid shelter during World War II. You can visit this maze by going to the beer store on Burgstrasse 19.
Dürer’s Everyday Life Revisited
A good way of getting to know Dürer’s life in Nuremberg is by visiting the Stadtmuseum Fembohaus. This museum, which gives a comprehensive overview of the city’s history, features the restored rooms of a 16th-century merchant’s house. For taverns and eateries, look no further than Goldenes Posthorn. After going through its heavy copper door, you will find yourself in a gastronomic paradise that has been feeding Nuremberg citizens since 1498. Here you will find great local sausages, as well as many other country dishes – hard to find in other places – in addition to vegetarian options. Another tavern from those times is Marientorzwinger. This is Nuremberg’s last zwinger – a tavern built within the walls of old military quarters. This is a picturesque establishment offering wholesome Franconian produce, in addition to simple vegetable dishes. You can choose between their unpretentious dining room and the luxurious terrace. To drink, nothing better than a Tucher beer from Fürth.
To stay the night, we recommend the Dürer-Hotel, a four-star establishment located in the historic centre, right next to the Imperial Castle. Its bedrooms and lounges are uniquely decorated, perfectly combining tradition and modernity – after Albrecht Dürer’s perfectionist spirit. Oh, and, their cuisine is spectacular, with breakfasts that include confectionery, cold meats and local cheeses. Their products are high quality and organically produced in the region.
Dürer is synonymous with Nuremberg. Come and discover the city of this emblematic Renaissance artist. Remember, you can visit any time of the year. However, if you do so in spring or summer, the weather will likely be better, and you’ll be able to enjoy the old city’s splendid terrace cafés. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación, Tourismus Nuernberg
more infoExperience Donosti Through Sport
Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.
I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.
More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic
In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.
But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:
Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.
Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.
Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.
Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.
If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.
As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.
San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón – the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon – and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing – in September.
Cross de las tres playas – in October.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro
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Discover the Island of La Graciosa
Lanzarote is one of the most beautiful of the Canary Islands and La Graciosa, situated north-west of the latter, is one of its well-kept treasures. The two islands are separated by a strait known as El Río. The origin of the island’s name is not clear – some hold that it already existed before Lanzarote was added to the Crown of Castile following the expedition of the Norman conqueror, Jean de Béthencourt, in 1402. Whatever the case, its name is well deserved.
La Graciosa is the largest of the islands and islets that make up the so-called Chinijo Archipelago and its south side is dominated by extensive beaches of yellow sand, like La Cocina and La Francesa. Also located on the seaboard is its only two towns, Caleta de Sebo and Pedro Barba. Caleta de Sebo is the main population centre, while Pedro Barba is currently uninhabited. Like the rest of the Canary Islands, La Graciosa is volcanic in origin. Its highest peak is Las Agujas, which rises to 266 metres.
Chinijo Archipelago Marine Reserve
La Graciosa is part of the Chinijo Archipelago Marine Reserve. The word Chinijo, a local place-name meaning “small”, is usually applied to children here. With an area of 70,700 hectares, it is the largest marine reserve in Europe and is endowed with incalculable scenic value. This large reserve, which stretches between the towns of Teguise and Haría, comprises the islands of La Graciosa, Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste (also known as Roque del Infierno) and El Risco de Famara.
The biological wealth of La Graciosa is immense. Some 304 species of marine macroalgae have been catalogued thus far, accounting for 53.15% of the Canary Islands’ overall flora. Indeed, it boasts the greatest diversity of macroalgae species in the archipelago.
The rich resources contained in these waters account for the abundance of marine birds which feed on them for their staple diet. The geopark is designated a Special Conservation Area for Birds (ZEPA, in Spanish). The most common bird species here is Cory's shearwater. Also in considerable numbers are some rare or endangered species such as the kestrel, barn owls, Eleonora's falcon and the guincho or osprey.
Another highly significant potential value of this Marine Reserve are the historical references regarding the presence here of the monk seal. This marine vertebrate, which is now an endangered species worldwide, survives thanks to the tranquility and biological wealth contained along these shores, pitted with sea caves and jameos (collapsed lava tunnels) where they take shelter and reproduce. Alegranza is currently one of the best suited spots for reintroducing the monk seal whose numbers have dwindled sharply due to poaching on the nearby Mauritanian and Mediterranean coasts.
Underwater Journey
Diving is becoming increasingly more popular on the island, which features three major diving spots. El Canal, located between Alegranza and Roque del Oeste, has a platform at a depth of 25-30 m and a pronounced, 35-40 metre fault containing a large amount of fauna. There are abundant populations of large-size grouper, island grouper and amberjack, as well as abundant violescent sea-whip, yellow sea-whip and white gorgonian. Another ideal diving area is Montaña Amarilla, in the south-west of La Graciosa near Punta del Pobre. A short distance from the shore is a berm which dips down 12 metres and becomes more perpendicular to the coastline the further offshore you swim, sloping into a 20-m chasm. This is densely populated with mainly common two-banded seabream, red mullet, barred hogfish and Mediterranean slipper lobster. As you approach the last area, Alegranza, a marked increase in coastal marine life becomes evident. Large crabs and limpets can be seen from the boat. Diving in these waters is a privilege, especially since the Marine Reserve came into being. To dive there, you need you first apply to the Canary Island government for the relevant permits.
One surprising feature of these underwater seascapes are the large colonies of sea-whip where the current is strong. They latch onto the rock and catch the nutrition that flows to them through the water. The ban on commercial fishing in this restricted area enables fish to reproduce freely, enriching these waters in quantity and variety. Such species as the wrass, which has disappeared in other areas, is prolific here, as is red mullet, eagerly searching for food on the more sandy seabeds.
Come along and dive in the depths of La Graciosa in the Chinijo Archipelago off Lanzarote. Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by Turismo Lanzarote
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Stockholm in Five Museums
The lively city is a hatchery of new trends in music, technology and design, innovations which often go viral around the world. Its art centres –museums, galleries, spaces for creation– are the places for taking the city’s pulse and feeling its spirit. Let’s visit the most emblematic venues, each of them a world unto itself, and immerse ourselves in the city’s contemporary art, photography, decorative arts, and music.
Stockholm boasts a rich, thousand-year-old cultural heritage, with wonderful architecture, museums, the Royal Palace, and the perfectly preserve medieval city centre, the Gamla Stan. Here, trendy bars and fine restaurants mingled with historic cafés and pubs. Similarly, modern shopping streets and malls feature all the major international brands, along with a stunning variety of local boutiques unusual shops, and the city’s museums range from the classic Vasa Museum to ABBA The Museum, and Fotografiska. In Stockholm there are more than a hundred cultural and recreational attractions to choose from. Here’s our choice of just five:
The Vasa Museum
The Vasamuseet features the Vasa, the world’s sole surviving, almost fully intact 17th C. ship, a real artistic treasure. More than 95% of the ship is original, and it is adorned with numerous carved wooden sculpture. The 69-metre-long, 64-gun warship sank on her maiden voyage in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later, in 1961. Nearly fifty years were spent restoring the ship to her original splendour. Her three masts tower above the building that now houses the Vasa. The museum is today the most popular in all Scandinavia, and receives more that a million visitors each year. Ten separate exhibits illustrate different aspects of the ship, including what life aboard was like. Children are admitted gratis.
Royal Palace
The 600-room Royal Palace or Kungahus, still the residence of the Swedish royal family, is one of Europe’s largest palaces. It is open to the public and houses no fewer than five museums. It was built in the Italian baroque style in the 18th C. on the site of the 13th C. Tre Kronor (Three Crowns) palace which burned to the ground in 1697. Visitors first see the splendid reception halls whose breathtaking furnishings and adornments date from the 18th and 19th centuries. Next is the Rikssalen (Hall of State) with the silver throne used by Queen Christina (1629-1689). Also worth seeing are the Ordenssalarna (apartments of the orders of chivalry), the Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities, the Kronor Tre Museum, and the Treasury.
The Royal Palace also houses the Armoury, with its marvellous collection of royal costumes and body armour, the coronation carriages, and the magnificent horses in the Royal Stables. The colourful changing of the guard ceremony can be watched at 12:15 h. on weekdays and at 13:15 h. on Sundays and holidays.
Fotografiska
One of the world’s largest photography museums, Fotografiska stages as many as four major and twenty smaller exhibitions each year. It shows the works of Swedish and foreign photographers, both established and emerging. The new restaurant in the museum is run by master chef Paul Svensson and has already won awards for its seasonal and ecological dishes. From the café on the top floor visitors can enjoy some of the best views of Stockholm.
Moderna Museet
Here we find one of Europe’s most important contemporary art collections, with works dating from the early 20th C. to the present, including masterpieces by Picasso, Dali, Matisse, and Sweden’s own Siri Derkert. Its permanent collection and its temporary exhibitions make it a must for visiting art lovers. The Moderna Museet is located on Stockholm’s fairytale Skeppsholmen island in a spectacular building by the Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. Its restaurant affords lovely views Djurgården park and Strandvägen boulevard.
ABBA The Museum
Music, clothing, lyrics, videos, and interactive displays concerning Sweden’s most celebrated pop group ABBA can be seen and heard in this museum on the island of Djurgården. The famous quartet, founded in 1970, sold more than 378 million records before is disbanded in 1983. Its biggest hit, “Waterloo”, reached the top of the charts in 1974. The 1994 musical “Mamma Mia” revived interest in the group.
The vibe in Stockholm is open, easy-going, and welcoming. Diversity and innovation are prized. Stockholm is a place the whole world should visit. So, what are you waiting for? Check out our fares here!
Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Illustrations: Visit Stockholm, Ola Ericson
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