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Santiago de Compostela, living heritage

By Adela Nieto Cerrada from callejeandoporelplaneta.com

Santiago de Compostela is a city that enchants pilgrims and travellers alike since, on arriving after your journey, its streets and squares start to come alive, bustling with life. After travelling hundreds of kilometres, some joyful, some painful, we finally get to rest in Plaza del Obradoiro square, having fulfilled our duty by visiting the Apostle who was anxiously waiting to welcome us in the cathedral. This is when, exhausted and excited, we begin our discovery of what lies in the city of Santiago with its hostels, restaurants and shops hidden away on side streets. Now we can start to soak up and experience the city's mix of tourism, student life and pilgrim destination.

Santiago de Compostela is home to major cultural heritage and even more important hidden gems that make it a unique city:

Plaza del Obradoiro square 

A social and institutional symbol, it is not only the final stop on Saint James' Way but also where the different state powers are represented through the marvellous architectural combination. The imposing cathedral was begun in the 11th century in a Romanesque style but was later extended with Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance features including the Gloria Portico and the cloister. The Archbishop's Palace is a must-see, right next to the cathedral, with its different rooms, courtyards and vaults. The Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, the former pilgrim's hospice which, like the rest of the city, gradually transformed over time is today a National Parador Hotel. San Xerome College, a precursor to today's university, was originally built by Bishop Fonseca to house poor students. The Neoclassical-style Town Hall, the last building to be constructed in the square and enclose the space definitively, is home to the President's Office of the Galician Regional Government.

The University

Santiago de Compostela is inherently linked to pilgrims and students, both having transformed the city into an essential stop for any traveller. In turn, the history of the university is intimately linked to the city's history where, at the end of the 15th century, a small college was founded to provide language classes to children from poor backgrounds. The initiative was successful over the years and the facilities were extended until 1504 when Diego III de Muros won a papal bull to offer higher education courses. Since then, and for over 500 years, the USC has been a prestigious institution, renowned around the world. In addition to its undeniable academic excellence, it also populates the streets with students and 'Tuna' period music troupes.

The Old Town

The maze-like centre of Santiago overflows with life day and night: cobbled streets, historical buildings, aristocratic palaces, hidden monasteries, hostels for pilgrims, shops, restaurants, leisure spots, markets and bazaars all comprise the beating heart of a city that goes to bed in the early hours and rises with the first rays illuminating the Apostle. Aimlessly wandering the old town is akin to travelling back in time - close your eyes for a second and when you open them again, you soon realise that life continues as it has over the ages. Strolling the streets is a unique experience where we all end up finding our own special place and where a bustling routine has continued every day since mediaeval times.

The Vantage Points

Experiencing the real Santiago means wandering the streets although for one of the best views over the centre, you need to head beyond the walls of the old town towards one of the parks that surround the city. La Alameda Park is in the east end where the benches immortalise the best sunsets over the cathedral. Belvís Park is in the west, next to the Albergue del Seminario Menor hostel, and offers views over the old town in all its splendour. Mount Gaiás lies to the south and is home to the immense Galician City of Culture. One of the best vantage points in the centre is from the terrace at the Faculty of History and Geography, offering astounding panoramic views over the surrounding area of Santiago.

The Locals

The city's old town is a World Heritage Site although its true value lies in its local people who, over the years, have spread the city's renown across the globe. Originally farm labourers and dedicated to country life, the city's people have changed over time, opening shops, setting up businesses but always remaining modest folk, ready to help others without asking for anything in return. Throughout the ages, Santiago de Compostela has been the birthplace of illustrious figures such as the great poetess Rosalía de Castro, Archbishop Fonseca, a precursor in establishing the university, or the surgeon Gómez Ulla, Chair of the Professional Medical Association; nonetheless, it is the unknown locals who continue to be the true heart of the city and its best heritage.

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In Summer – A Beach in Brussels

The idea is not new. For some years now, these artificial urban beaches have popped up each summer in Berlin, Hamburg and under the bridges of the river Seine in Paris. You won’t have to cram the whole family into your car, or embark on a long, hot journey to feel the sand under your feet and freshen up in the water. In Brussels, this tropical paradise is known as Les Bains de Bruxelles and it lasts for five weeks on the Quai des Péniches, along the Brussels Canal. It opens from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, and from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

True, there aren’t many waves, but some ingenuity has been applied to making the beach as attractive as possible; indeed, it draws an extremely diverse crowd of beach-goers. The 6,000 m² of sand are dotted with deck-chairs, palm trees and coconut palms, striped sunshades and beach bars serving vividly coloured cold beverages. The atmosphere is a family one during the day and sports activities include beach football, volleyball, boule and ping-pong, as well as games for young children. Pedalos and kayaks can be hired at reasonable prices on Sundays. You can also go for a ride along the canal on board the Bruxelles les Bains, which offers various tours – the short one takes 55 minutes; the longest one is a 2-hour cruise, and there is also a “cocktail cruise”, by night – while the harbour’s history and geography is expounded on by a guide.

This chill-out on the beach is accompanied by the Let It Beach festival, now in its third year. A variety of concerts liven up the evening on weekends, while on Fridays the music turns to folk, rock, pop and hip-hop. Jazz and world music take centre stage on Saturdays. The Sunday programmes target the younger set, with workshops, dances and, of course, more concerts. Night reverie is bolstered by free sessions of Croisetteke, every day from 6 p.m. on, in addition to theBoat Club,an exclusive floating club which hosts the liveliest parties in Brussels.

Not Without My Ice-cream!

When the thermometer seems to be driving endlessly upwards, another delicious way of keeping cool is to have an ice-cream. And, for those who can’t contemplate a day at the seaside without ice-cream, here are some of the best parlours in town:

Comus & Gasterea (Quai aux Briques, 86)

A place for trying the newest and most unusual flavours. It features some of the strangest ice-creams in the world, with such flavours as caviar, olive oil, Roquefort, lichi, wasabi aubergine and basil, home-made and free of additives or colouring agents. All you need is to be patient, as queues can sometimes build up outside its doors.

Capoue (Rue de Wand, 112)

Chez Capoue is one of the oldest ice-cream parlours in Brussels and, while at Comus & Gasterea you find the most unusual flavours, in Capoue they make the most daring combinations, notably bounty, blood orange and spiced bread. They are also have them sugar-free for diabetics, or lactose-free for those allergic to dairy.

Il Monello (Chaussée de Charleroi, 31 -33)

While Il Monello opened only recently, it has already made a name for itself in the city for its traditional pastries and homemade ice-creams. They also serve the latter atop a waffle for those seeking consistency (or calories).

Zizi (Rue de la Mutualité, 57A)

Zizi, a veritable institution in Brussels, is the city’s best-known ice-cream parlour. In the sixty years they have been open, they have never altered their manufacturing process. The flavours are natural and free of colouring agents.

Brussels Rules!

Brussels is a refreshing destination this summer, but not only because of its urban beach. Throughout the summer, every Friday from 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m., the Apéros Urbains or animated afterworks are held in some of the most attractive spots in the city. Also featured is the Midis Minimes classical music festival, with daily concerts lasting 35 minutes from 12.15 p.m. (until 28 August), held in the Church of Saint-Jean et Etienne aux Minimes and in the Conservatorio Real.

Come and experience it for yourself. Come on! Pick up your towel and check out the flights to… Brussels!

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Eric Danhier

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Milan's business side

By Belén Parra and Carme Gasull

Milan is the model of that Italian north in constant contrast to the south of the country. A cosmopolitan city representing industrial drive and modernity as ways to open up and promote itself worldwide. From fashion to food and art to football, few people are unable to place this capital on the map. A source and destination for business, it's a good idea to discover what it has to offer.

Where to stay

Hotel The Gray
Via San Raffaele, 6
www.sinahotels.com

This hotel could not have a better location. The city centre is right around the corner from your room and the views are superb. So much so that you'll want to spend more time there. Modern, cool and elegant whilst remaining discreet... A five star hotel with 21 spacious fully equipped rooms where no detail is overlooked. A varied buffet breakfast alongside à la carte dishes and impeccable service. It is served in Le Noir restaurant, where reservations can also be made for dinner. Free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel (including the 'communal' terrace) with a personal password for every device. The Gray is one of the 520 independent hotels listed in Small Luxury Hotels of the World ™ (SLH), a selection of charming establishments in 70 countries around the world - from avant-garde designer hotels to palatial 17th-century mansions, sanctuaries in city centres to remote private islands, historical homes to idyllic resorts.

Where to eat

Al Pont de Ferr
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 55
pontdeferr.it/

Earth, fire, water and air. The four elements on a plate. Uruguay native Matías Perdomo and Argentina born Simón Press have revolutionised this historic osteria owned by Maida Mercuri, the first female sommelier in Italy. An explosive trio in Naviglio Grande, a bustling must-see area to get a feel for the city.

Rebelot del Pont
Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55
This premises, an off-shoot of Al Pont de Ferr, opened just one year ago. A more informal setting, the head chef is the young Brazilian Maurizio Zillo, who trained in different Spanish kitchens. Miniature cuisine or Italian-style 'tapas' (and drinks) at a great price.

Cracco
Via Victor Hugo, 4
www.ristorantecracco.it
This is the great benchmark of avant-garde cuisine in Milan. Two Michelin stars. The owner and chef Carlo Cracco, alongside head chef Lucca Sacchi, serve up a menu offering the whole of Italy on a plate, extolling it with immense creativity. Located next to the Duomo and some of the gourmet spots in the city such as Peck and Ladurée. A luxury.

Pisacco
Via Solferino, 48
www.pisacco.it
Carefree, informal and packed. Owned by several partners, including chef Andrea Berton, who has a signature restaurant in the same city. The menu includes light tasty dishes: marinated salmon, vitello tonnato and a delicious veal hamburger with chips created by the chef. Free Wi-Fi.

Where to shop

Eataly
Milano Smeraldo Piazza XXV Aprile, 10
www.eataly.it
Opened recently in the premises of the former Teatro Smeraldo, it offers the entire wealth of the Italian pantry over several floors. Cheeses, wines, sausages, sweets, fresh pasta, cookery books... It is a beautiful place with a piano to host near-acoustic concerts. It also offers cookery classes for amateurs and even children.

La Rinascente
Piazza Duomo, 10
www.rinascente.it
Teas, coffees, preserves, sweets... On the top floor of the building you can try and/or buy any gourmet product you fancy. Specialised food stands for sushi, tapas or pasta and enjoying the Duomo from above. Indeed, it'll feel right on top of you if you decide to eat on the terrace. A hugely popular tourist destination, it's a good idea to avoid heading there at the weekend. Next door to the marvellous hotel The Gray.

La Feltrinelli Red
Piazza Gae Aulenti, 20
www.lafeltrinelli.it
Read, eat, dream. There are many branches of Italy's most emblematic bookshop but you won't find a more gastronomic one than here. The décor breathes food all around and you can eat or have a drink whilst losing yourself in its selection of books. For all ages. Located in the newest part of town.

10 Corso Como
Corso Como, 10
www.10corsocomo.com
A small garden welcomes you to the café-restaurant, clothes and designer gift shop, and art gallery. Located on a pedestrian street that links old Milan to the city's new skyscrapers.

Where to have a drink

Armani Bamboo Bar
Via Alessandro Manzoni, 31
milan.armanihotels.com
Located on the seventh floor of the stylish Armani Hotel and just around the corner from the city's fashion quarter. It is the ideal spot to see and be seen, hold a relaxed meeting and enjoy the famous Aperitif.

Champagnerie
Corso Matteotti, 4/6
milano.boscolohotels.com
As its name suggests, this is the favourite haunt for those who enjoy a good glass of champagne and who have something to celebrate. It is one of the lures of the Boscolo Hotel, where you can also enjoy delicious cocktails over stunning views.

So you feel like visiting Milan, do you? Book your flights here!

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The Zürich That Would Captivate John Waters

John Waters shot to fame by directing outlandish, low-budget movies such as Pink Flamingos (1972) which glorify violence, sexual perversion and bad taste. He uses provocation as a weapon targeting the good-mannered hypocrisy, iron-fisted morals and religious values of the American way of life. However, few realise that the American dandy with a pencil moustache has also designed large-format collages and photomontages. He has chosen 40 of these pieces – including storyboards from his movies – for the exhibition, How Much Can You Take?, which runs until 1 November at the acclaimed Kunsthaus Zürich, coinciding with the murals by Joan Miró on display there until the end of January.

Paradoxically, the multifaceted filmmaker has other traits in common with Zürich, such as class, a sense of order and extreme cleanliness. Deep down, Waters also has a tenderness and fetishism that suggests he would delight in the bric-a-brac on sale in downtown Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, offering the music boxes, Swiss army knives, cowbells and cuckoo clocks so typical of Switzerland’s bucolic image. That same cliché embodied by Heidi, the children’s character created by the writer, Johanna Spyri who, like the poet, Gottfried Keller, is buried in the leafy park of Sihlfeld Cemetery, the first in Europe to incorporate a crematory. Waters would surely relish a visit there, both for his fascination for the macabre and his professed love of literature, which of late he is more engaged in than cinema. Hence, we might also recommend he visit Fluntern Cemetery, site of the beautiful tomb of James Joyce, who in Zürich gave himself over to a licentious alcoholism while writing much of Ulysses, a diatribe against Church and State. Another writer who also passed away in this city was the German author of The Magic Mountain, immortalised in the Thomas Mann Archives, a small museum housed in the ETH Zürich. This State university has also been graced by no fewer than twenty Nobel prizewinners, notably the scientist Albert Einstein, as much a rebel against conventional mores as Waters. Located in the same university is the spectacular Law Faculty Library, designed by the architect, Santiago Calatrava. However, the maker of morbid films would probably prefer to read in the old abbey housing the Zentralbibliothek Zürich, the city’s main library.

The filmmaker’s more iconoclastic side would relish the recollection that Zürich was the cradle of Dadaism, the anarchic “anti-art” so critical of middle-class society in World War I. That was when the artistic couple, Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball, founded the celebrated Cabaret Voltaire in Niederdorf’s Old Town. Together with Tristan Tzara, the locale broke with all established canons. The building gradually became derelict until it was occupied in 2001 by a group of artivists and used to stage neo-Dadaist-style performances before vast crowds of Zurichers. After their eviction, the City Council overturned its original plan to demolish the building, which was then refurbished as an alternative cultural centre. Also located in the Old Town is the unusual Musée Visionnaire, where visitors choose what they want to see – and are encouraged to critique it – from a catalogue of Art Brut, a movement also known as Outsider Art – the work of amateurs, the mentally disabled and any creator alien to institutions and the boundaries set by official culture. In short, characters who would not be out of place among the Dreamlanders, counter-culture misfits and such regular collaborators of Waters as Mink Stole or Divine.

The young Waters who was so enthralled by gruesome accidents and bloodthirsty tales would also take a fancy to the Moulangenmuseum, a museum featuring wax representations of body parts twisted by disfiguring diseases, including exhibits in the University Hospital’s medical teaching collection dating from 1917. And, lured by the repulsive, he might also look up the dark oeuvre, biomechanical aesthetic and highly charged erotic sense of another illustrious native of Zürich who designed the visual effects for the movie, Alien – the recently deceased H.R. Giger. Although fans of the illustrator and sculptor have to choose between a visit to his comprehensive museum in the walled town of Gruyères (nearly two hours south of Zürich), and the stunning Giger Bar in his native Chur (about an hour’s drive from Zürich), situated, strangely enough, in the same land that inspired the pastoral Heidi.

To wind up this walk on the dark side, nothing better than supper at Blindekuh Zurich, the world’s first restaurant where diners eat in the pitch black. Fortunately, Waters is not the chef, so you needn’t worry about being served what Divine ate in Pink Flamingos. I assume you get my drift but, just to make sure, before you take the plunge you should go to a quality chocolaterie like Sprüngli.

In any event, remember that the Waters exhibition only lasts for a few more weeks, so get your tickets here!

 

Text by Carlos G. Vela para ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by David Shankbone, Roland zh, Juerg Peter Hug, Absinthe, Edsel Little

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