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The Zürich That Would Captivate John Waters

John Waters shot to fame by directing outlandish, low-budget movies such as Pink Flamingos (1972) which glorify violence, sexual perversion and bad taste. He uses provocation as a weapon targeting the good-mannered hypocrisy, iron-fisted morals and religious values of the American way of life. However, few realise that the American dandy with a pencil moustache has also designed large-format collages and photomontages. He has chosen 40 of these pieces – including storyboards from his movies – for the exhibition, How Much Can You Take?, which runs until 1 November at the acclaimed Kunsthaus Zürich, coinciding with the murals by Joan Miró on display there until the end of January.

Paradoxically, the multifaceted filmmaker has other traits in common with Zürich, such as class, a sense of order and extreme cleanliness. Deep down, Waters also has a tenderness and fetishism that suggests he would delight in the bric-a-brac on sale in downtown Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, offering the music boxes, Swiss army knives, cowbells and cuckoo clocks so typical of Switzerland’s bucolic image. That same cliché embodied by Heidi, the children’s character created by the writer, Johanna Spyri who, like the poet, Gottfried Keller, is buried in the leafy park of Sihlfeld Cemetery, the first in Europe to incorporate a crematory. Waters would surely relish a visit there, both for his fascination for the macabre and his professed love of literature, which of late he is more engaged in than cinema. Hence, we might also recommend he visit Fluntern Cemetery, site of the beautiful tomb of James Joyce, who in Zürich gave himself over to a licentious alcoholism while writing much of Ulysses, a diatribe against Church and State. Another writer who also passed away in this city was the German author of The Magic Mountain, immortalised in the Thomas Mann Archives, a small museum housed in the ETH Zürich. This State university has also been graced by no fewer than twenty Nobel prizewinners, notably the scientist Albert Einstein, as much a rebel against conventional mores as Waters. Located in the same university is the spectacular Law Faculty Library, designed by the architect, Santiago Calatrava. However, the maker of morbid films would probably prefer to read in the old abbey housing the Zentralbibliothek Zürich, the city’s main library.

The filmmaker’s more iconoclastic side would relish the recollection that Zürich was the cradle of Dadaism, the anarchic “anti-art” so critical of middle-class society in World War I. That was when the artistic couple, Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball, founded the celebrated Cabaret Voltaire in Niederdorf’s Old Town. Together with Tristan Tzara, the locale broke with all established canons. The building gradually became derelict until it was occupied in 2001 by a group of artivists and used to stage neo-Dadaist-style performances before vast crowds of Zurichers. After their eviction, the City Council overturned its original plan to demolish the building, which was then refurbished as an alternative cultural centre. Also located in the Old Town is the unusual Musée Visionnaire, where visitors choose what they want to see – and are encouraged to critique it – from a catalogue of Art Brut, a movement also known as Outsider Art – the work of amateurs, the mentally disabled and any creator alien to institutions and the boundaries set by official culture. In short, characters who would not be out of place among the Dreamlanders, counter-culture misfits and such regular collaborators of Waters as Mink Stole or Divine.

The young Waters who was so enthralled by gruesome accidents and bloodthirsty tales would also take a fancy to the Moulangenmuseum, a museum featuring wax representations of body parts twisted by disfiguring diseases, including exhibits in the University Hospital’s medical teaching collection dating from 1917. And, lured by the repulsive, he might also look up the dark oeuvre, biomechanical aesthetic and highly charged erotic sense of another illustrious native of Zürich who designed the visual effects for the movie, Alien – the recently deceased H.R. Giger. Although fans of the illustrator and sculptor have to choose between a visit to his comprehensive museum in the walled town of Gruyères (nearly two hours south of Zürich), and the stunning Giger Bar in his native Chur (about an hour’s drive from Zürich), situated, strangely enough, in the same land that inspired the pastoral Heidi.

To wind up this walk on the dark side, nothing better than supper at Blindekuh Zurich, the world’s first restaurant where diners eat in the pitch black. Fortunately, Waters is not the chef, so you needn’t worry about being served what Divine ate in Pink Flamingos. I assume you get my drift but, just to make sure, before you take the plunge you should go to a quality chocolaterie like Sprüngli.

In any event, remember that the Waters exhibition only lasts for a few more weeks, so get your tickets here!

 

Text by Carlos G. Vela para ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by David Shankbone, Roland zh, Juerg Peter Hug, Absinthe, Edsel Little

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100 Years of German History on Wheels

The BMW group is marking its 100th anniversary this year by holding a temporary exhibition showcasing the company’s history, from 1916 up to the present, through a display of 100 “masterpieces”. We travelled to Munich to witness the inauguration of this landmark exhibition. There we learned both the history of this emblematic automaker and of Germany, and retraced its technological evolution over the last century.

The Building

The museum is housed in a futuristic complex called BMW Welt, ideally located near the Olympiapark. The venue not only serves automobile enthusiasts, as it also hosts regular exhibitions on themes related to technology, design and innovation. Designed by the Austrian architect’s studio, Coop Himmelb(l)au, it took four years to build. It was originally slated to open for the final stage of the 2006 World Cup in Germany, but it wasn’t completed in time, and eventually opened a year later. It is a vibrant building as it can be adapted to a variety of uses – it can operate as a market, a communications centre and also a meeting point for the exchange of ideas.

This is a modern building designed to be experienced with the five senses. Here you can see, hear and feel technology and design. It features a permanent auto exhibition, among other content. Prominent, too, is the Junior Campus, a place where children learn how to approach technology in an entertaining and edifying manner.

The Museum

The BMW Museum is a multi-purpose space which features presentations of new BMW car models, among other things. The museum interior is arranged into key sections, namely seven great thematic areas, each set within its own environment and endowed with a distinct aesthetic. On our visit, we learned that the main idea behind the conceptualisation of the museum space was to exploit the carmaker’s history as an expression of its modern, sophisticated character, one in which innovative technology is at the forefront, and design is used to enthral at first sight. However, cars are not the only exhibits here, as you will also see motorcycles and all kinds of technology as applied to motor sports. Also on display is the latest motor invention by the Bavarian automaker.

100 Masterpieces

BMW celebrates its 100th anniversary this month, and one of the main events they are hosting is the show, 100 Masterpieces, a temporary exhibition showcasing the company’s history from 1916 to the present. To this end, 100 works have been selected to exemplify one of the most innovative companies in the world. It is a journey through different periods and the display is spectacular.

The works are displayed within a hemispherical building on five platforms which stand for five specific periods through which the company’s history is presented. As is to be expected, the exhibition starts with the first “masterpiece” of BMW – the founding in 1916 of Bayerische Motoren Werke (Bavarian Motor Works). From here on, the journey through time moves between posters of different eras, each of which closely reflects the corresponding art avant-gardes of those times. The following section is dedicated to the company staff. Here, the focus is on the legion of workers, each of whom played their part in the construction of the German colossus. This section also touches on such aspects of the business as health, architecture, internationalism, production, corporate culture and sustainability. The itinerary is chronological and gradually reveals achievements of all kinds, notably motorbikes like the incredible R35, the near-pioneering R12, the striking K1, the Dakar-winning GS, and the innovative R NineT. And, automobiles – the latest BMW 7 Series, the legendary James Bond Z8, the iconic Mini Cooper, the amazing Isetta, a period trend-setter, and the futuristic i3 and i8. They have all made history at BMW, as has the production of aircraft engines. The exhibition also features a number of milestones in motor racing. We were particularly impressed by the display of rare mock-ups, films and photographs, as well as various preliminary sketches of fantasy prototypes. In all, the exhibition goes far beyond pleasing four-wheel fanatics. It is more of a lesson in history, aesthetics, design and sociology presented in a highly attractive fashion.

Don’t pass up the chance to discover the ins and outs of one of the icons of international motoring. Check out our flights here. The exhibition runs until 30 September 2017.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Germany Travel

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30 Years of Rural Tourism in Asturias

Of course, thirty years is nothing, but that’s the time that has passed since 1986, when Asturias set up what was the first rural tourism establishment in Spain. Everything has changed since then, and for the better. The village of Taramundi, where the original La Rectoral was inaugurated, has now become an international paragon. Travellers have come from far and wide to discover it and enjoy the peace and quiet it offers, as well as to meet its people and learn its traditions. Rural tourism, which has subsequently spread across the whole of Asturias, is a leisure style with millions of adepts, some of whom have found in Asturias their coveted paradise.

La Rectoral – 30 Years of Rural Encounters in a Natural Paradise

Three decades ago, when few would have thought that tourism might become one of the region’s major economic engines, the government of the Principality of Asturias bravely decided to spearhead a project intended to transform a small spot in the Principality – Taramundi. Balancing enjoyment of and respect for the environment was the watchword of this initiative which culminated in the opening of the Hotel La Rectoral on 17 June 1986.

A Trend that Spread Like Wildfire Across the Whole of Asturias

After the inauguration of La Rectoral, new projects sprang up all over Asturias – notably in the east, west and centre of the region – in the form of small hotels, village houses and rural apartments. A whole panoply of rural accommodations which breathed new life into villages and hamlets and engendered a new concept of leisure based on authenticity and contact with nature, traditional customs and the ancestral world.

A Superb Backdrop for Rural Tourism

Preservation of the environment, which for 30 years has made us worthy of the epithet, “Asturias, a Natural Paradise”, is the perfect enticement for a sojourn in its rural areas. Asturias boasts over a third of its territory under some form of official protection, whether as a park, reserve or natural monument. Following are some of its standout areas:

In the Picos de Europa, visitors can hike through the gorges that divide this great limestone mass, delve into the activity of livestock grazing – which is still carried out within the park boundaries – or discover karst formations and glacial remains, as in the Covadonga lakes.

Another option is to visit the Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias nature reserve, a territory with a marked variety of nuances which acts as a sanctuary for the Cantabrian brown bear and features the largest oak forest in Europe – the Muniellos Forests.

Something similar is in store for the traveller in Somiedo, as here, too, you can follow the tracks of the brown bear and because scattered across the whole territory you will come across pastureland punctuated by the presence of cabanas de teito,stone constructions with thatched roofs once used by vaqueiros or highland cowherds as a refuge in the summer months, the sight of which takes the onlooker back in time.

Beech forests are the prevalent type of vegetation in the Redes woodlands, while the spectacular summits of the Retriñón, Peña del Viento, Canto del Oso and Pico Torres are a treat for those seeking contact with nature.

Much of the reserve known as Oscos-Eo is also forested. However, what sets it apart is its status as one of Spain’s most active craft tradition areas. More than just the cradle of rural tourism, Taramundi is home to one of the most interesting ethnographic complexes on the Peninsula.

The latest addition to this array of idyllic settings is the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Nature Park. With an area of 451 km2, it is the site of the second largest limestone mountain system in the Cordillera Cantábrica – namely the Peña Ubiña Massif – and it also features various cultural vestiges which range in time from the Bronze Age to a present-day theme park – the Prehistoric Park.

Dreaming in Asturias

Dreaming in Asturias is a cinch, whether you are asleep or awake. With a stellar track record in the business, our accommodations are of the highest standard and beyond guaranteed. We cater to all kinds of visitors in terms of taste, objectives and options. From available feedback, it would seem that lodging in Asturias is always a gratifying experience.

As an example of rural excellence, some 50 rural hotels are managed under the quality seal known as “Casonas Asturianas”, while 56 Casas de Aldea y Apartamentos Rurales (village houses and rural apartments) come under the auspices of the “Asturias Calidad Rural” association.

Both the Casonas Asturianas hotels and the houses and apartments making up the Casas de Aldea y Apartamentos Rurales de Aldeas attest to the excellence shared by thousands of people who on countless occasions are able to recall and adopt as their own the motto that dreaming in Asturias is really easy and within anybody’s reach.

Alone, with your Partner or as a Family

All kinds of experiences can be had in Asturias, each one better than the last. You can savour urban or rural settings and bask in either mountain or seaside idylls, all at your own pace. And, you can do so any way you wish – alone, with your partner or with children and the whole family. The options are endless, determined by your interests and tastes.

And, very importantly, it is very easy to get from the villages to the city and vice versa. Everything is near and well connected.

Clearly, Asturias is a paradise any time of the year. It offers a host of leisure opportunities in terms of nature, culture, gastronomy, etc. All you need to do is come. Check out our flights here.

 

Text and images by Turismo de Asturias

 

 

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Milan's business side

By Belén Parra and Carme Gasull

Milan is the model of that Italian north in constant contrast to the south of the country. A cosmopolitan city representing industrial drive and modernity as ways to open up and promote itself worldwide. From fashion to food and art to football, few people are unable to place this capital on the map. A source and destination for business, it's a good idea to discover what it has to offer.

Where to stay

Hotel The Gray
Via San Raffaele, 6
www.sinahotels.com

This hotel could not have a better location. The city centre is right around the corner from your room and the views are superb. So much so that you'll want to spend more time there. Modern, cool and elegant whilst remaining discreet... A five star hotel with 21 spacious fully equipped rooms where no detail is overlooked. A varied buffet breakfast alongside à la carte dishes and impeccable service. It is served in Le Noir restaurant, where reservations can also be made for dinner. Free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel (including the 'communal' terrace) with a personal password for every device. The Gray is one of the 520 independent hotels listed in Small Luxury Hotels of the World ™ (SLH), a selection of charming establishments in 70 countries around the world - from avant-garde designer hotels to palatial 17th-century mansions, sanctuaries in city centres to remote private islands, historical homes to idyllic resorts.

Where to eat

Al Pont de Ferr
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 55
pontdeferr.it/

Earth, fire, water and air. The four elements on a plate. Uruguay native Matías Perdomo and Argentina born Simón Press have revolutionised this historic osteria owned by Maida Mercuri, the first female sommelier in Italy. An explosive trio in Naviglio Grande, a bustling must-see area to get a feel for the city.

Rebelot del Pont
Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55
This premises, an off-shoot of Al Pont de Ferr, opened just one year ago. A more informal setting, the head chef is the young Brazilian Maurizio Zillo, who trained in different Spanish kitchens. Miniature cuisine or Italian-style 'tapas' (and drinks) at a great price.

Cracco
Via Victor Hugo, 4
www.ristorantecracco.it
This is the great benchmark of avant-garde cuisine in Milan. Two Michelin stars. The owner and chef Carlo Cracco, alongside head chef Lucca Sacchi, serve up a menu offering the whole of Italy on a plate, extolling it with immense creativity. Located next to the Duomo and some of the gourmet spots in the city such as Peck and Ladurée. A luxury.

Pisacco
Via Solferino, 48
www.pisacco.it
Carefree, informal and packed. Owned by several partners, including chef Andrea Berton, who has a signature restaurant in the same city. The menu includes light tasty dishes: marinated salmon, vitello tonnato and a delicious veal hamburger with chips created by the chef. Free Wi-Fi.

Where to shop

Eataly
Milano Smeraldo Piazza XXV Aprile, 10
www.eataly.it
Opened recently in the premises of the former Teatro Smeraldo, it offers the entire wealth of the Italian pantry over several floors. Cheeses, wines, sausages, sweets, fresh pasta, cookery books... It is a beautiful place with a piano to host near-acoustic concerts. It also offers cookery classes for amateurs and even children.

La Rinascente
Piazza Duomo, 10
www.rinascente.it
Teas, coffees, preserves, sweets... On the top floor of the building you can try and/or buy any gourmet product you fancy. Specialised food stands for sushi, tapas or pasta and enjoying the Duomo from above. Indeed, it'll feel right on top of you if you decide to eat on the terrace. A hugely popular tourist destination, it's a good idea to avoid heading there at the weekend. Next door to the marvellous hotel The Gray.

La Feltrinelli Red
Piazza Gae Aulenti, 20
www.lafeltrinelli.it
Read, eat, dream. There are many branches of Italy's most emblematic bookshop but you won't find a more gastronomic one than here. The décor breathes food all around and you can eat or have a drink whilst losing yourself in its selection of books. For all ages. Located in the newest part of town.

10 Corso Como
Corso Como, 10
www.10corsocomo.com
A small garden welcomes you to the café-restaurant, clothes and designer gift shop, and art gallery. Located on a pedestrian street that links old Milan to the city's new skyscrapers.

Where to have a drink

Armani Bamboo Bar
Via Alessandro Manzoni, 31
milan.armanihotels.com
Located on the seventh floor of the stylish Armani Hotel and just around the corner from the city's fashion quarter. It is the ideal spot to see and be seen, hold a relaxed meeting and enjoy the famous Aperitif.

Champagnerie
Corso Matteotti, 4/6
milano.boscolohotels.com
As its name suggests, this is the favourite haunt for those who enjoy a good glass of champagne and who have something to celebrate. It is one of the lures of the Boscolo Hotel, where you can also enjoy delicious cocktails over stunning views.

So you feel like visiting Milan, do you? Book your flights here!

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