Walpurgis Night – Revisiting the Witches’ Trails
Walpurgis Night – the night of witches or, in German, Walpurgisnacht– is held at the transit from 30 April to 1 May in much of central and northern Europe. May 1 is the feast of St Walpurga, the patron saint of countrywomen and servants, and patroness of conjurers. Legend has it that this is the last time witches can celebrate their heathen festivals after the darkness of winter, and they have the whole night to do so.
One of the most popular sites for this ritual is Brocken, the highest summit in the Harz Mountains (some 50 km from Leipzig, Germany). This peak is often shrouded in dense fog, endowing it with an air of mystery. It even gives rise to an unusual effect known as the Brocken Spectre – an optical illusion that can appear in any fog-clad mountains, by which an enlarged shadow of the observer, surrounded by an iridescent halo, is reflected onto the clouds. The effect is actually created by the diffraction of cloud droplets. This also helped to magnify the legend of the witches in the place mentioned by the German writer, Goethe, at the beginning of his best-known work, Faust, when he describes the scene of the witches’ night celebration on the slopes of the Harz mountains. On Walpurgisnacht, participants assemble at Brocken around a large bonfire and spend the night singing and dancing. The festive ritual is purported to drive off evil spirits. Witches’ night is celebrated at all villages in the Harz Mountains, where the inhabitants dress up as witches and demons, while street markets, fireworks, parades and concerts are organised. Check out the programme listing all the Walpurgis Night activities in Harz.
The Harz Mountains – Following in the Witches’ Footsteps
Accounts from the Harz are not limited to witches. This mountain range in Lower Saxony is an impressive nature reserve featuring some of the really beautiful spots. The mountain trails wind their way between steep cliffs and valleys, ash forests, and networks of villages, palaces and castles dating from the time of the Saxon Dynasty. It is northern Germany’s resort of choice for cross-country skiing and hiking, traversing the natural habitats of the red brocket, deer, lynx and wild boar, as well as the white-throated dipper, black stork and peregrine falcon.
The Harz is criss-crossed by a network of over 8,000 kilometres of well-signposted nature trails, making it a paradise for hikers. While the Harz National Park itself is practically uninhabited, you will come across a few hamlets and restaurants offering genuine, typical German cuisine – the stellar dish of the region is roast potatoes with spices. One of the trekking routes, known as Harzer Hexenstieg (Witches’ Route), is a trail running some 100 kilometres from Osterode, through Brocken, as far as Thale. Halfway along the trail, at a place called Torfhaus, the witches’ trail forks along a stretch known as “Goethe”. Indeed, the poet and playwright walked this same route some 200 years ago.
Fairytale Villages in the Harz Region
The Harz Mountains are also dotted with some charming 16th-century villages, rich in history and legend. Of these, we have highlighted the following:
Goslar. At the foot of the Harz range lies this picturesque medieval town, known as the “Rome of the North”. It was the residence of German kings and emperors until 1253. The historic town and the old Rammelsberg mines, situated on the edge of the town, are listed as World Heritage sites. Also listed by UNESCO is the nearby Upper Harz Water Regale (Oberharzer Wasserregal), one of the world’s largest and most important pre-Industrial Revolution energy-management systems. Its 107 dams and reservoirs and over 300 kilometres of water channels provide a stunning backdrop for the Harz mountain hiking trails.
Wernigerode. This, the nearest town to Brocken is noteworthy for its striking hilltop castle and its medieval houses elaborately adorned with wood carvings.
Thale. Situated in the picturesque Bode Gorge, overlooked by the Hexentanzplatz, a lofty hilltop which can be reached by cable car. Hexentanzplatz, meaning “witches’ dance-floor”, was once a place of worship in Saxon times, sacred to the forest and mountain goddesses. Here you will find various landmarks associated with witches’ legends, in addition to the Walpurgishalle Museum.
Quedlinburg. Just 10 kilometres from Thale lies Quedlinburg, the first capital of Germany and an important town during the Middle Ages. It currently holds the largest concentration of half-timbered buildings in the country. An interesting fact is that this town was ruled by women for 800 years.
You aren’t scared, are you? Come and see it for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Olli Henze | Σ64 | Mundus Gregorius | GerturdK | Mathias Liebing | JuTe CLZ | Marco Hamersma
more infoJaffa the Oldest Port in the World
Jaffa or Yafo, as it is known in Hebrew, is one of the oldest ports in the world. According to the Bible, it was founded by Japheth, one of the sons of Noah, after the Great Flood and it was from here, too, that Jonah set sail on his voyage, before being swallowed by a whale. Myths, legends and stories attenuated by the passage of time – the fact is that Jaffa is one of the most charming spots on Israel’s seaboard. Its narrow streets, craft stalls and views of Tel Aviv make this a magical place to wander through leisurely.
History, Artists and Street Markets
Various excavations in the area have unearthed remains dating back to 2,000 BC, making Jaffa one of the oldest active ports in the world.
After a period of splendour and its flourishing under the Ottomans, Jaffa went into a period of decline on account of the growth experienced by neighbouring Tel Aviv, which absorbed it in 1948. Today, however, it has become one of the city’s most vibrant districts.
The entrance to Jaffa is dominated by the Clock-tower, built in 1921 to mark the 25th anniversary of the Turkish sultan at the time. Radiating out from the tower are a number of streets that make up the street market. In Jaffa you can find souvenirs, craftwork and even second-hand objects. Be sure to visit the flea market, held every Sunday morning between Yefet street and the Jerusalem Boulevard. Their wares range from brick-a-brac to mid-century designer jewellery, furniture and crockery. If you won’t be visiting the quarter on a Sunday, however, rest assured all the streets make up one big bazaar where you can always pick up the odd gem any day of the week.
What’s more, the streets surrounding the market feature quaint, vintage-style restaurants with terraces where you can dip into a hummus or salad for just a few shekels.
Hub of Artists
While prices are no longer the way they once were, Jaffa is a still favourite haunt of local artists. Situated in the north of the district is the so-called Artists’ Quarter, a compact area of old Arab houses and narrow alleyways which have been turned into artists’ studios and craft workshops. One of the best known venues is the Ilana Goor Museum, an 18th-century building owned by this Jewish artist. It boasts a vast collection of ethnic art, as well as works by such established figures as Henry Moore, Diego Giacometti and Joseph Albers. And, if you’re lucky, you might bump into Ilana herself as she walks her dog through the museum.
The other major venue in Jaffa is the Old Jaffa Museum of Antiquities. Housed in a lovely 18th-century building, it features exhibits unearthed during excavations in the area itself.
A Mix of Religions
A stone’s throw from the Ilana Goor Museum stands the so-called House of Simon the Tanner where, according to the New Testament “Acts of the Apostles”, St Peter stayed. Israel is a land where various religions coexist, so don’t be surprised to find mosques, synagogues and churches in the same street. Indeed, the Catholic St. Peter's Monastery stands in Kedumim Square, underneath which we find a visitors centre, housed on the site of excavations from the Roman period. Immediately behind it and overlooking the sea is the Monastery of St Nicholas, dating from 1667, the seat of the area’s Armenian community. The quarter also has synagogues and two important mosques, notably the Sea Mosque, where fishermen traditionally go to pray, and the Mahmoudiya, dating from 1812, which serves the local Muslim community.
Make a Wish
There are two things you should not fail to do before leaving Jaffa. First, stroll through the Gan Ha-Pisga, a park sited atop Old Jaffa hill, with spectacular views over the Tel Aviv coastline.
And, lastly, you should cross the Wishing Bridge and make a wish of your own. However, make sure you do so while touching your sign of the Zodiac on the bronze statue while gazing out over the sea. It’s certain to come true.
Take a Vueling to Tel Aviv and discover the oldest port in the world.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau, amira_a
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Gran Canaria The Great Atlantic Escape
Our free days are a pleasant surprise on the calendar and the best way to get the most out of them is to board a plane bound for some fresh, entertaining and getatable destination. That spot is Gran Canaria, a whirlwind of sensations, halfway between Europe, Africa and America.
Gran Canaria is just a two-hour flight from the Iberian Peninsula. So, getting there is really easy. A comfortable trip with no stopovers will convey you to that diverse land which emerged millions of years ago from submerged volcanoes in the depths of the Atlantic.
One of the perks offered by a Gran Canaria getaway is, of course, the winter sun. Temperatures on the island remain a constant 24 degrees all year around, enabling you to make the most of any outing to Las Canteras, Maspalomas, Playa del Inglés or Puerto de Mogán, some of the best known and famous beaches.
The Gran Canaria seaboard is the perfect setting for letting off steam by engaging in watersports, but, if what you’re after is making forays into the island’s interior, you should make a point of visiting the towns of Teror, Agüimes, Tejeda and Artenara, or such stunning spots as the Guayadeque Gorge, an ancient pre-Hispanic settlement which nowadays is noted for its striking, cosy cave houses.
Any trip to Gran Canaria should include a visit to the island’s summit, a central area in the Biosphere Reserve where the Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga outcrops stand. Oh, and remember to get your camera ready. There, you will literally feel like you have arrived in heaven when the weather phenomenon known as the “sea of clouds” spreads out at your feet, as if you were the main subject in a painting set against the memorable scenery of steep mountains and deep gorges.
The north coast of Gran Canaria features some must-see sites such as Puerto de Las Nieves and the Valle de Agaete, a lush garden with tropical fruit housing the only coffee plantation in Europe. Gáldar awaits you with the majesty of the Cueva Pintada (Painted Cave), the largest native Canarian archaeological site, while Arucas, for its part, is the headquarters of Arehucas Rum, a peerless drink which has livened up the festivities of many generations of Canary Islanders.
Well worth visiting is Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, a carefree capital with a wealth of cultural activities. Its Vegueta district is the city’s historic centre and you are urged to venture into the monumental area to see close-up the Cathedral of Santa Ana, Museo Canario, Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno and Christopher Columbus House Museum, a beautiful enclave where the Genoese navigator stopped over on his way to discovering America and which highlights the relationship between the Canary Islands and the New World.
If you’re up for an intense day of shopping at more than reasonable prices, the Calle Mayor de Triana is the ideal spot for it. Large, national and international firms and prestigious brands have stores in this shopping area, and the latter is a pleasure on the eyes, as the district features picturesque buildings in various architectural styles.
Gran Canaria is a lively island, an urban travel destination where you can soak up the atmosphere of its street markets and craft stalls, as well as the various events held there during the year. The last quarter of 2016 will see such long-awaited events as the start of the ARC Transatlantic Race, the Underwater Photography Contest, the Bethlehem built of sand on Las Canteras beach or the Gran Canaria Walking Festival, a grand event for trekking enthusiasts which in this upcoming fifth edition will be including new routes and a night itinerary for star-gazing on the Cumbre de Tejeda.
All these offerings make Gran Canaria a unique destination for an exciting long weekend or warm autumn or winter holiday. Here, time flies by and the island has lots of travel plans to be savoured in advance.
Why wait to experience all this first-hand? Check out our flights here.
Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria
more infoMadrid’s Gastronomic Markets Route
It’s a fact that gastronomy is in vogue in Madrid, as we saw for ourselves on our recent trip to the capital. The classical, long-standing bars, restaurants and fondas have been augmented by new venues for enjoying good food and drink – gastrobars, gastroclubs, gastronomic events and gastronomic markets. It was this latter concept we investigated on our trip, with very rewarding and tasty results, too.
Market of San Miguel. Or how to pamper yourself at a unique venue.
(Plaza de San Miguel, s/n)
Located next to the Plaza Mayor, this is definitely the tourists’ choice. Housed in a unique building, it is Madrid’s only surviving ironwork market. Renovated in 2009 and turned into a gastronomic precinct, it still preserves its original charm from the time it was built, in 1916. Inside you will find mainly Spanish haute cuisine. Taste the delicate cheeses and sausage, enjoy the specialities of a Madrid classic like the Lhardy, choose from a large assortment of croquettes, savour the tapas in the Pescado Original, have an aperitif at La Hora del Vermut and a delicious array of etceteras.
Market of San Antón. Chueca’s cultural and gastronomic space.
(C/ Augusto Figueroa, 24)
Located in the heart of the Chueca district, it is divided into three distinct sections. The market itself, which offers first-rate fare, is located on the first floor. The gastronomic section, where you can taste the cuisine of different regions (Canary Islands), countries (Japan, Greece) and specialities (seafood, roast chicken) is on the second floor. The third floor features a magnificent lounge-terrace where you can enjoy the views while sipping a cocktail. Also sited there is the restaurant, La cocina de San Antón, where we recommend you pick a cooking, by which you select the meat or fish you want in the market and they will cook it for you in the restaurant, accompanied by whatever side dish you choose from the menu.
San Ildefonso Market. Taking a breather during your shopping spree.
(Fuencarral, 57)
Smaller than the previous two markets, it can go unnoticed on the Fuencarral shopping street. Once inside, go up to the first floor, where you will come to a small but inviting area, inspired by London or New York street markets, with an array of different gastronomic stalls. You can have a gourmet hamburger at Gancho Directo, nibble at the cured Iberian ham at Arturo Sánchez, taste a brochette at La Brochette, or have the finger-licking egg dishes at La Granja Malasaña. The atmosphere is young and modern, in keeping with the Malasaña district it is located in. There is also an interior patio for those who like to have a beer and a smoke, and a bar counter where you can try their cocktails.
El Huerto de Lucas. For organic lovers.
(C/ San Lucas 13)
A small market specialising in the sale of organic produce, which also features La Cantina, where you can taste the magnificent wares displayed in their stalls. Here, the food is not the only organic element – so, too, is the architectural project, completed by Paula Rosales’ More&Co studio. The space is designed to minimise environmental impact, both in terms of construction and its day-to-day operation. We were impressed with the hanging bosque de cintas (forest of ribbons) and the warm decor.
Platea Market. Fanfare and haute cuisine in Serrano.
(Goya 5-7)
Set aside from the rest, this erstwhile cinema – that was its original mission – was converted into a space dedicated to gastronomic leisure. The former Carlos III cinema was remodelled by the interior designer, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, as an array of restaurants for tasting haute cuisine. No less than six Michelin stars and twelve Repsol suns have been awarded to the chefs that work there, which include such celebrities as Paco Roncero, Pepe Solla, Ramón Freixa and Marcos Morán. Two storeys, three stalls and a section specialising in confectionery to immerse yourself in and enjoy, not only the food and drink, but also the live music and DJ sessions.
Wouldn’t you just love to dive into this flavour-filled world? Check out our Madrid flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación and Mercado Platea
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