Words by Magda Albis from METAL

Santa Catalina, a few meters away from the sea, is one of the most emblematic and dynamic neighborhoods in Palma. Which once was the fishermen’s suburb, has now turned into one of the city areas with more character and personality. The Market acts as heart and hub of the district with a great number of attractive shops and restaurants filling the city streets.

One of these enchanting corners is Frida Watson, a cosy shop selling vintage furniture. Original pieces from the 50s, 60s and 70s land in Mallorca coming from all sorts of places worldwide and in perfect condition. Dressers, center tables, couches, as well as different decoration elements, are all collected and arranged along the various rooms that make the establishment. The carpets made by the brand Brita Sweden, produced in vinyl and with geometric patterns, are simply irresistible, together with the retro futuristic lamps imported from Denmark. A warm space were one can find classic design pieces and functional works of art, were one only feels like getting an “Old-Fashioned” cocktail and settle to live in.

Mon-Fri/ 10.00 am-2.30pm, 3.00pm-6.30pm, Sat /10.00 am-3.00pm

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Words by Magda Albis from METAL

Even the towns at the interior of Mallorca, like Valldemossa, Fonalutx or Biniaraix, are under the shelter of Tramuntana mountain range, are those which kept better the interesting traditions and costumes, by the shore there are little places that survived the urban growth.

Therefore, idyllic images of Mediterranean fishing villages have gradually disappeared as tourists arrived massively. However, there are still charming spots in Mallorca bays, keeping the essence. Visiting them is necessary in order to understand the cultural heritage of the island.

Es Jonquet

Next to Santa Catalina quarter, in Palma, and enclosed by Sant Matgí street, the border between both areas, there is Es Jonguet, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, which has conserved all the charm of a fishing quarter. This is a humble neighbourhood, with low-lying houses and irregular streets, rising proud under the mills (old flour mills) that welcome travellers arriving from the sea.

S'Estaca

Do not confuse this old fishing village, near Valldemossa, with the huge mansion that actor Michael Douglas owns in this area and is named the same. The village has about twenty old fishermen shelters where it seems that time has stopped. A magic place between Sa Foradada and Port de Valldemossa.

Porto Petro

Porto Petro is at the town of Santanyí, southeast of Mallorca. Even it’s not a fishermen port as it used to be, it has respected, surprisingly, all its original essence. There are not huge residential areas; only little stores and familiar houses. This is a place for people who want to relax in the nature, with many coves nearby. Closely, however, there are the real tourist areas, like the cove of Mondragó or Cala d'Or, which have a lively activity on summer nights.

Port des Canonge

Passing by Banyalbufar, southwest of Tramutana, the mountain range gets to the sea at Port des Canonge. To get here you have to follow a windy road to discover, at the end, the old houses that fishermen used as shelter and now are a little residential area, with the beauty intact. The quay and a nice beach made of gravel and boulders, make this spot a very quiet place.

Closely, you will find little coves or walk through pine forests following "Volta des General", a nice route that goes from Banyalbufar to Port de Canonge.

Porto Petro by Magnus Manske | Es Joquen by Chixoy | Port des Canonge by mallorcaesasitambien

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Majorca is renowned the world over for its beaches and coves, but the Sierra de Tramuntana, which rises over a thousand metres above the island’s north coast, is a veritable paradise for hiking enthusiasts. An intricate network of centuries-old tracks and footpaths has been upgraded into a set of fully-fledged walking routes traversing a surprisingly rocky landscape carpeted with dense forest. Peeping out of the clearings are a number of quaint villages and hamlets that preserve their pristine charm. A long-distance footpath, known as the Dry Stone Route (Ruta de Piedra en Seco) or GR-221, runs from one end of the range to the other, flanked by the most rugged landscapes in Majorca. The route, imbued with the region’s rich cultural heritage, covers 120 km and can be done in full or by sections. For visitors with a tight schedule, we have selected three of the best sections along the trail.

1. Ses Basses and La Trapa – the Stunning Sa Dragonera Vantage Point

The walking route starts at the Coll de Sa Gramola, a mountain pass accessible from the Andratx main road. From here, a trail heads westwards towards the caseta de Ses Basses. After that the path narrows and leads to an area with various viewpoints overlooking the sea, affording wonderful panoramic views. The trail gradually merges into the wild landscape which compounds a rugged, breathtaking setting against the backdrop of the island of Sa Dragonera protruding into the sea. After a descent flanked by vegetation, you come to an old Trappist monastery now under restoration. The project will eventually include a shelter for hikers. For the return trip, you go back the same way you came.

Recommendations:
This is an easy route, covering 15 km for the whole round trip, ideal for a morning’s hike.
Access: Coll de Sa Gramola lies 5 km from Andratx, reached via the Ma-10 main road, where there is a parking area. If you happen to come in two cars, you can extend the excursion beyond La Trapa as far as Sant Elm, where you can park one of the cars beforehand. The walking distance from Coll de Sa Gramola to Sant Elm is 13 km in all. Remember to take water as there are no drinking sources on the way and little shade.

2. Camí de s’Arxiduc – a High-Flying Lookout Between Valldemossa and Deià

The excursion begins at the Charterhouse of Valldemossa, the former residence of King Sancho I of Majorca. Exit the village of Valldemossa following the white and red markers of the GR-221 along a stony path with a steep gradient that ends at the Es Cairats shelter, which is still closed. It should be noted that original route of the GR-221 was very different from the current one as it used to go over the summit of Talaia Vella, from where it joined up with the Camí de s’Arxiduc. On the new route, old lime kilns are visible on the ascent leading to Es Cairats, as are charcoal kilns and the small shelters once inhabited by those in charge of managing resources in the magnificent holm oak woods.

After the shelter, the footpath turns into a track and you soon come to a wild, open area. The GR-221 markers lead to the summit of Puig Gros, the Pla des Aritges plain and Es Caragolí, where the route finally links up with the panoramic Camí de s’Arxiduc. Before taking a detour to descend towards Deià, it is well worth walking a few extra yards – even though this involves going back on our tracks – along this emblematic route, as it runs along the ridge of the mountains. It was commissioned by the Archduke Louis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine in the late-19th century for the sole purpose of being able to enjoy the scenery.

Recommendations:
While only 13 km long, the route has a difficulty of medium-high, on account of the slopes and terrain, which is very rocky and steep in some stretches.
Access: You can leave your car in Valldemossa and take the bus back from Deià.

3. From Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc – A Weekend in the Mountain Heartland

One of the most spectacular, varied, accessible and best appointed sections of the GR-221 is the one that connects the historical town of Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc. It covers a distance of 35 km and can readily be divided into two stages – of 19 km and 15 km each – with an overnight in the Tossals Verds shelter.

Stage 1 – On the first day, the GR-221 markers point you from the centre of Sóller to the bucolic Biniaraix gorge. This involves a pronounced accumulated slope, leading up to the Coll de l’Ofre and the Cúber dam. From here, the more seasoned hikers can proceed to the Tossals Verds shelter via the new Pas Llis bypass, with an added ascent and a brief, simple equipped pass. The alternative is the old route which goes around Coll des Coloms and does not entail any difficulty.

Stage 2 – After regaining your strength in the shelter, you proceed along the GR-221 towards the panoramic areas of Coll des Prat and Coll des Telègraf. From here, a long descent leads you to the monastery along a winding path which snakes through a holm-oak wood featuring old but recently restored ice pits.

Recommendations:
The trek lasts two days and the difficulty level is medium to high, as it includes steep slopes – with a daily accumulated slope of over 1,100 metres – and prolonged descents along tracks. The terrain is rocky and requires mountain footwear, in addition to trekking poles. While the path is signposted with posts, waymarkers and paint marks, it is advisable to take your own hiking map, such as the one published by the Editorial Alpina. You should also book overnights at the Tossals Verds shelter in advance, as capacity is limited (website).
Access: You can get a bus to Sóller from Palma, or you can travel on the old Sóller railway, which has been plying the route daily since 1912. You can take the L330 line bus to make the return journey from Lluc to Palma.

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Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker of Con Un Par de Ruedas

Photos by Con Un Par de Ruedas

Santa Catalina is now Palma’s fashionable quarter. Located just outside the erstwhile walled city west of Palma, in recent years it has undergone a facelift, turning it into a more spacious, more integral, must-visit district of the city.

Owing to its proximity to the harbour, it was originally a fishing quarter. In the 18th century some industrial activity emerged in the area, as evinced by the iconic Es Jonquet windmills and the aptly named Calle Industria. However, it reached the peak of its industrial expansion and development in the late-19th and early-20th century. Dating precisely from that period are the Modernist-style houses spread across the district, some of which were built by the Indianos on their return from Cuba.

Santa Catalina is a district of one- or two-storey houses, with balconies and Majorcan blinds, and small interior gardens or patios. A stroll through its quiet streets attests to an unusual mix of people, including a good number of foreigners that have succumbed to this quaint old fishermen’s quarter and have decided to settle there.

The hub of the area is the Santa Catalina Market, a veritable neighbourhood meeting point. Housed in a building dating from 1920, it preserves much of its original charm and is the ideal place for shopping for fresh, seasonal produce, most of which is sourced locally.

One of the claims to fame of Santa Catalina is the large number of restaurants that have opened there in the last few years, making it the perfect spot for ending a day’s sightseeing through Palma with a rewarding culinary experience. Among the standout venues we find:

Cantina Patrón Lunares. Located on the premises of the mutual benefit society, Montepío del Arrabal, it features highly poetic interior design in which the maritime and industrial past merges to perfection with vintage furniture and craft objects. The restaurant offers traditional island cuisine enhanced with seafood dishes from further afield.

Restaurante Duke. Here, the menu faithfully reflects the taste of the owners, who are great travellers, as it is characterised by dishes from all over the planet. The small interior is decorated with surfing motifs and photos of their journeys and is the perfect spot for eating wholesome food based on original recipes in a peaceful setting. We recommend ending off the meal with a mojito, which are mouth-watering.

Restaurante Hanaita. Despite the plain, rather dowdy decor of this small venue, it is undoubtedly one of the best Japanese restaurants in Palma, featuring excellent quality dishes.

Restaurante Xoriguer. Located on the Calle Fábrica, this is one of Palma’s classics. It also features some excellent, traditional Basque cuisine, and a wide variety of splendid meat dishes, including the best Kobe and Black Angus beef.

Gin Burger. As its name suggests, this cosy, modern locale offers delicious hamburgers which you can wash down with a magnificent gin tonic – they carry a large variety of gins. The venue is suitable for all guests, including vegetarians and celiacs, who have also been catered for on the menu.

Apart from its culinary offerings, Santa Catalina has also become a hub of the city’s artistic activity, which is centred around the Teatro Mar i Terra.

Now that you’re genned up about Palma’s trendiest district, all that’s left is for you to book your Vueling and enjoy it.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Fabian Walden, Cantina Patrón Lunares, Fernando Vesga