In route with Joe Strummer to Granda and Almeria
It is more than 10 years since Joe Strummer left us. This artist, famous for his punk period with the well-known The Clash, was in love with spanish poet Lorca, Granada and Almeria coast, where he spent lost of time during his lasts years.
This is something which can be surprising for lots of people, but not for the ones who really knows him drinking rhum and coke at the famous Silbar – at calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón in Granada- or for those ones that digg into his discography.
It was in the squat where he lived in London – despite being a world-renowned artist- living together with two girls from Málaga and a guy from Navarra, where Strummer once said that he wanted to set up a hardware store in Andalusia. Hence the documentary’s name by Antonio Jesús García and Javier Navarrete where he explains how the singer took refuge in Granada and Almería in search of anonymity and Carlos Prats directed under the title “I Want a hardware store in Andalusia “. All kind of anecdotes are explained in the documentary by his widow Lucinda Garland, vocalist of the band 091 José Antonio García a.k.a. ‘Pitos’, his first band drummer Richard Dudanski and Jem Finer, The Pogues’s component.
Another documentary about his stay in Spain is “I Need a Dodge ! ” by British director Nick Hall, that inquires about the location of the car he loved and he left forgotten in a garage in Madrid . By buying this Dodge, he wanted to go to Víznar, a population at 8 kilometers from Granada where Federico García Lorca was shot to death , with the crazy idea to buy a shovel at a hardware store, locate his grave and dig it up .
The fact is that Joe had great interest in the Spanish Civil War and Federico García Lorca. Thereby he wrote “Spanish Bombs” in his honor, one of the most emblematic The Clash’s songs . In 1984 he settled in Granada and spent long periods of time searching for himself and looking for disconnection in southern Spain’s land. Ten years after his death, the city he loved gave its name to a small square in the heart of Realejo, the old Jewish city’s quarter.
Joe Strummer Square
Due to the popular demand from fans on Facebook asking for Joe to be a part of the city, the City Council of Granada has ended up dedicating him a small space close to the Alhambra. In addition to his first wife, Gaby Slater, and his widow, Lucina Garland,an emotional concert in acoustic remembered the influential figure of the leader of The Clash. The features some Jose Antinio Garcia and Antonio Arias of 091 to which Joe godfather for “Más de 100 Lobos”, Paul Cook of The Mescaleros, Jem Finer of The Pogues or Richard Dudanski of the 101 ‘ers have done a review on some of the artist’s repertoire, without forgetting classics such as “Spanish Bombs” or “London Calling.
Las Gabias – Granada
In this village a few kilometers from the city of Granada, Joe Strummer was hosted at Gaby Contreras’s home, a radiologist nicknamed ‘the mad doctor’ by Joe and who was also close friend to Sid Vicious.
During his long stay in southern Spain, Joe Strummer settled for a time in the small picturesque village of San José, in the Natural Park Cabo de Gata-Nijar. Bought a house to spend the summer and enjoy Mónsul and Genoese beaches. He spent the nights at Jo’s bar, the Red Fish that is now the Pez Azul – and . Fan of cantaor el Niño de Olivares, Strummer went regularly to Fernan Perez’s flamenco club to attend his performances.
In summer and coinciding with Joe’s birthday on August 21 they continue to schedule concerts in his memory at Jo’s bar in San José by Richard Dudanski’s band Doghouse -former The 101′ers’s drummer and whom Joe Strummer made his first foray into the world of music.
Desierto de Tabernas – “Straight to Hell”’s filming
Tabernas Desert is located about 30 kilometers from Almeria, in a desert area with a low rate of rainfall that becomes one of the driest in Europe. Although it has a tourist charm for having been the scene of the shooting of many spaghetti westerns like Death was priced or The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and many others
Here the film Straight to Hell Alex Cox was filmed in 1987, starring Joe Strummer and the cameos by Dennis Hopper, Courtney Love, Grace Jones, Elvis Costello, Jim Jarmusch and members of bands Amazulu, The Circle Jerks and The Pogues. The Irish Pogues’s travel to Almeria inspired them in one of their most famous “Fiesta”. Straight to Hell is a parody of spaghetti westerns that was written in two or three days and was shot in four weeks.
I am Francisco Vasquez Garcia
I am welcome to Almeria
We have sin gas and con leche
We have fiesta and feria
Why not take a trip to Almería? Have a look at our flights here!
more info
The white villages. Andalusian essence
One of the classic routes to discover Andalusia’s essence is the white villages one, which runs through about 20 locations in the provinces of Malaga and Cadiz.
Traditionally, Andalusian houses are painted white or whitewashed to avoid,as far as possible, the hot Andalusian summer. This way to relieve the heat, joined with the affection their inhabitants use to decorate streets, squares and balconies with flowers and plants, make these towns picturesque postcards.
The route of the white villages heads to special beauty and natural environment areas as the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema -Biosphere Reserve. The ideal is to try to visit all the beautiful villages, since each has its attractions and special characteristics. But if you only have two or three days, there are some stops that, in our opinion, are of main interest.
Arcos de la Frontera is one of the most common places to begin the route, as it is located near Cadiz and the Jerez airport, while the beautiful Ronda would be the natural endpoint. In Arcos de la Frontera you can admire the Basilica of Santa Maria from the Plaza del Cabildo and continue with a walk through the steep and narrow streets with baroque facades scattered through the town, up to the walls of the Castle of the Dukes.
Another town that should not be missed is El Bosque. It lies at the foot of the mountains, starting the stretch of the Sierra. It is a good place to gather information about the Grazalema Natural Park in the Tourist Center and an excellent area for trekking.
Although it requires a little detour, Ubrique is a worthwhile stop. It is the leather city, where you can buy a nice piece of tanned leather done as in the Arabic tradition.
Along the way, we find other locations that do not belong to the official route, but that are worth a visit. For example the strech to Benmahoma, that passes through forests of pine and eucalyptus and whose top rewards us with spectacular views. Before arriving in Ronda, we can not miss places like Zahara de la Sierra and Alcalá del Valleo or Setenil de las Bodegas, with their houses carved into the mountain and along the river.
Ronda, the Dream City - like the poet Rilke called it-, is the usual destination to complete the route; an ancient city seated on a stone plateau.. Worth walking calmly to appreciate all its nooks and monumental works. It preserves traces of its Moorish past, being one of the last strongholds before the Reconquista, which are reflected in the so-called ancient Arab city or Arab Medina, along the Guadalevin shore.
It is divided by a gorge over 100 meters above El Tajo and crossed by three beautiful bridges. Dating from the eighteenth century, the main one is the most iconic landmark of the city.
Besides its cultural interest, this Andalusian architectural gem has many restaurants where you can enjoy delicious recipes and products from the Serrania.
Picture Zahara de la Sierra vy Grez | Olvera by Tomas Fano | Villaluenga by El Pantera
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
Curiosities in Malaga
1- El Caminito del Rey (King’s little road)
Known by fans of extreme sports for being one of the most dangerous roads in the world . It is a 3-kilometer pedestrian walkway with sections just 1 meter wide that gets to hang up to 100 meters above the river and is located between the villages of Alora and Ardales. King Alfonso XIII had to cross it in 1921 to inaugurate the prey to Conde del Guadalhorce, hence the name.
2- Júzcar. El Pueblo Pitufo (Júzcar. Smurf’s Village)
Only from that grace so typical of Malaga can be understood that an idea like this was born. Taking advantage of the promotion of Smurfs 3D movie , the village was painted blue and, after a popular consultation, it was agreed to extend the painting of the facades. The town of Juzcar became the first Smurf Village in the World on June 16, 2011. Thanks to the original proposal, it has become a leading destination for family holidays.
3- El Castillo de Colomares
This strange construction, which pays tribute to Columbus and the Discovery of America, is located in Benalmadena and is a compendium of architectural styles as diverse as Moorish, Romanesque and Gothic, that give the monument an air somewhat bizarre .
On the inside you can visit which is considered by the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest chapel in the world , with just 1’96 square meters. On the few occasions on which Mass is celebrated in the chapel, Christian believers should listen from outside.
4- Frigiliana
Of Frigiliana is said to be one of the most beautiful and best preserved villages in Spain . With just 3,000 inhabitants, is situated in the eastern part of Malaga’s province, between the Sierra de Almijara and the Mediterranean Sea. Its streets of medieval-Moorish style’s architecture and its old town has been awarded prizes such as the Improvement and Embellishment of Towns of the Province, the Beautification of the people of Spain or the First Prize of National Award Competition improvement and Embellishment of Towns of Andalusia.
5- Santa Teresa de Jesús’s incorrupt hand
There is another curiosity in the beautiful town of Ronda. Its Iglesia de la Merced maintains what they callSanta Teresa de Jesus’s incorrupt hand. About ten months after the saint’s death , in 1582, her remains were exhumed, and the Catholic Church claims that her body was found incorrupt. Now this relic has being protected by a gilded silver glove embedded with precious stones.
6- La Casa de los Navajas (Navajas House)
Facing the beach El Bajondillo in Torremolinos, this beautiful Neomudejar style building has survived property speculation. The simple fact of surviving Costa del Sol’s fierce land speculation, is in itself something extraordinary. It is also one of the most beautiful and emblematic places with interior decor inspired by the Alhambra in Granada. The house was declared a Historic Landmark by the Department of Culture of the Junta de Andalucía in 1991.
7.- How to order a coffee in Málaga
This video comes to be a useful guide in how to order coffee in Malaga, with the measurements invented by the Central Cafe Malaga. There are 10 different ways to ask for it and many visitors might wonder where their nomenclature comes. Began in 1954 in postwar times, when coffee was more expensive. The owner of the Café Central, José Crespo Prado had to choose between throwing coffee or do another again, to suit all tastes. To avoid wasting coffee, identified 10 possible amounts of coffee and named them, so you always have a measure that would suit your tastes.
8- Málaga, cinema city
Finally, some interesting facts related to the movies. For example, the final scene of the movie “Milennium. Men Who Hate Women”, in which Lisbeth leave the car with a briefcase, was shot in the Malagueta beach, on the Paseo Marítimo Pablo Picasso. Apparently, this area showed perfectly the idea that its director, Niels Arden Oplev, was to represent the Cayman Islands.
In Málaga, movies like Michelangelo Antonioni’s The Passenger , starring Jack Nicholson and Maria Schneider, Jacques Feyder’s Carmen that starred Raquel Meller or San Luis Rey’s Bridge , starring Robert Of Niro and Geraldine Chaplin
The most common scenario for shooting was Finca de la Concepción because of the lush botanical garden that reminds exotic countries such as Cuba, the Philippines and India. Here was filmed, for example, The latest of the Philippines or the Adventures of Barber of Seville.
Why not take a trip to Málaga? Have a look at our flights here!
more info
Five Point Guide to Enjoyment at Seville’s April Fair
The countdown has started to the days when Seville gets decked out in all its colour and finery, dressed up once more in polka-dot and flounced skirts, parading about on horseback and in carriages, a time when Sevillians again dream full blast and the monumental gate at the fairground lights up to announce the start of theFeria de Abril.Each year hordes of visitors – what with locals, regulars, celebrities, tourists and passers-by – descend on Seviile’s fairground to experience what is possibly one of the leading Andalusian festivities, El Rocío notwithstanding, of course. Now, what should newcomers to the Fair do, and what should they know, in order to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb? Here are some pointers to attending the April Fair without dying in the attempt.
1. Origins of the Feria de Abril
What was to become one of the most popular fiestas in Andalusia made its debut some time around 1846. It was created by Narciso Bonaplata and José María de Ybarra, two businessmen resident in Seville. It started out as a purely commercial, agricultural fair but then grew over the years – the first casetas (stalls) began to appear, as did the first decorative elements and it was eventually transferred to its current fairground and transformed into an entertainment event.
2. Where and When
The April Fair is held in grounds located in the district of Los Remedios. The best way to get there is by metro (get off at the Parque de los Príncipes or Plaza de Cuba stops), or the special bus service laid on by the Seville City Council for fair attendees. And no – do not go there by car, because trying to park can turn out to be a nightmare.
As for dates, the Seville Fair is usually held one or two weeks after Holy Week and lasts for six days, although this year, by popular vote, it will be extended by another day.
3. Once in the Fairground…
The fairground is divided into two areas – the Real de la Feria, where the casetas are located, and another known as the Calle del Infierno (Street of Hell), home to the various attractions, which the Sevillians have rechristened as cacharritos (“rattletraps” or “clunkers”). As the saying goes, “a friend in need is a friend indeed” and here, at the Seville Fair, you will need a well-connected friend to facilitate access to the casetas, the only place where you can experience the festivity in all its splendour. Not all the casetas are private, but there are far fewer public ones and they tend to be crowded.
4. Dress Code is Important
Part of the charm of this fiesta resides in the splendid colourfulness of the costumes worn by women, and the elegance of the suits worn by men. Sevillians take the garments they show off at the Feria de Abril very seriously and there are even flamenco fashion labels and catwalks that set the latest trends for the season. So, if you want to avoid being conspicuous, you could hire a costume (you’ll have to fork out about 150 euros a day for a Sevillian dress) or settle for adding some flamenco highlights to your apparel, namely such accessories as the typical flower, earrings, necklace and shawl. As for men, chino or peg trousers and a shirt, with a suit or sports jacket. Bear in mind that the ”Lunes del Alumbrado“ (Monday of Lights), also known as the Noche del Pescaíto (Night of the Little Fish), is the only time when flamenco attire is not worn.
5. “Rebujito” and “Pescaíto” – the Culinary Leading Lights
Rebujito is the April Fair drink par excellence. This combination of a dry sherry – manzanilla or fino – with Sprite, 7 Up or mint has its origins in an English cocktail from the Victorian era known as Sherry Cobbler, and is served up in all the casetas. Beware, though, as the hangover it produces is one of the most feared, so try not to get swept away by all the excitement and drink in moderation. The other leading light of Seville’s Fair is the fried fish or pescaíto frito typically consumed on the “Night of the Alumbrado”, with other notable favourites being chickpeas and codfish, bull’s tail and the churros and buñuelos (fritters) that mark the end of the fiesta.
Fire up and come to Seville’s April Fair, to be held from 30 April to 7 May – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Sandra Vallaure
more info