One legend has it that the Breton saint St. Ferreol founded the city after landing there in a boat escorted by a choir of seven mermaids, but scholars still cannot agree on the origin of the name the city has been called since Medieval times.

History

The first people to settle in the area were Celts. And there is evidence of Phoenician and ancient Greek settlements, too. When the Romans conquered Hispania in the first century BC, a fishing village stood on the site of today’s city. Soon the locals began exporting preserved fish to the rest of the Roman Empire. The name “Ferrol” first appeared in church records in the year 1087, referring to a donation made by villagers to the nearby monastery of San Martín de Jubia.

From La Coruña

Ferrol has easy access to La Coruña, only 40 minutes’ distant --via a very scenic stretch of the AP-9 motorway, crossing the Eume river and others-- and to other towns in northern Galicia such as Villalba, Naró, and Ortigueira. You’ll see hills and extensive green meadowland crisscrossed by streamlets, along with panoramic views of the sea. You may wish to stop along the way at the Parque Natural Fragas do Eume, where you can admire Europe’s best-conserved Atlantic coastal woodlands, some 9,000 hectares of virgin forest. The triangular park, lying between the towns of As Pontes, Pontedeume and Monfero, will show you that “enchanted forest” isn’t just a figure of speech –you will expect to see elves and wood sprites frolicking amongst the ferns and lichens, and the springs and waterfalls, all under the leafy canopy of ash, alder, oak, and poplar trees, which the sun’s rays have difficulty penetrating in some spots. You might also visit the equally enchanting  Caaveiro monastery, dating from the year 934, and which overlooks the forest.

A Stroll through the Magdalena District

Ferrol’s urban essence is concentrated in the old quarter, the Barrio de la Magdalena, a commercial and entertainment district featuring such Belle Époque jewels as the 1892 Jofre Theatre, the Magdalena Market, the 1923 fish market building called “La Pescadería”, the Casino Ferrolano (also erected in 1923), the Hotel Suizo (1916), and the Banco Hispano-Antigua Fonda Suiza (1909-1910). The rationalist, geometrically laid out district resembles Barcelona’s Ensanche, and at its extremes lie two broad squares, the Plaza de Amboage or, more properly, del Marqués de Amboage, and the Plaza de Armas). There are numerous 18^th C. and 19^th C. homes with fancy wrought-iron balcony railings on stone corbels and white, wood-framed glass-enclosed balconies, as well and modernist buildings from the early 20^th C. The whole neighbourhood was designated as a protected cultural treasure in 1983. The main shopping streets are Real, Magdalena, Igrexa, Dolores, Galiano, and María. For tapas, drinks, and sit-down meals the calle del Sol is the place to go.

A Fortified City

Well worth visiting are the fortifications, whose construction began in the reign of Phillip II (b. 1527 d. 1598) that protected the city against attacks from the sea, including the  San Felipe Castle, and the Arsenal, a unique building now housing the Naval Museum.  It connects to the Magdalena neighbourhood via the ornate, neo-classical 1765 gateway known as the Porta do Dique.

The Spanish Armada

Ferrol has an important naval base and large military and civilian shipyards. Since the 15^th it has been a key military installation, particularly during the heyday of the Spanish Empire, the first on which “the sun never set” –the Spanish Armada has both the discovery of America and the first circumnavigation of the world to its credit. Sea dogs, history buffs, and landscape lovers alike will find much to rave about in Ferrol. Perhaps you should book a flight to La Coruña with Vueling a take a closer look? Check out or flights here.

Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures by Juan Balsa, Diputación de A Coruña y Concello de Ferrol

When one thinks of Paris, one of the first images that springs to mind is that of an aspiring writer, secluded in an attic, waiting for the Muse of inspiration to make her appearance. Paris is pure poetry and, as such, it houses some of the world’s best bookstores, like Shakespeare and Company. We are going to relive the fascinating history of this book shop and tour the most select Parisian literary venues.

Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach had been in Paris for 20 years when she realised the need to open a shop where readers could find works in English. Shakespeare and Company opened on the rue Dupuytren in 1919 and subsequently moved to rue de l'Odéon, near Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The bookstore founded by Sylvia Beach – who was soon to embark on the publication of one of the great works of universal literature; James Joyce’s Ulysses – almost immediately caught on as a meeting point for English-language writers during their stay in Paris. There must have been some memorable literary gatherings within those walls between such illustrious figures as Man Ray, Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway and Samuel Beckett, among others.

In 1941, during the German occupation, Sylvia Beach refused to sell the first copy of Joyce’s novel, Finnegans Wake, to a German officer, an act of defiance which led her to be arrested and incarcerated in a concentration camp. She was released six months later, but never opened her book shop again. Sylvia Beach died in 1962 and a year later, another American, George Whitman, acquired her publishing list.

George Whitman had his own bookstore, Le Mistral, which was little more than a study full of printed pages on the rue de la Bûcherie, at the intersection of Saint-Jacques, alongside the Seine and opposite Notre Dame. Fascinated by the life story of Sylvia Beach, and as a tribute to her legacy, he changed the name of his store to rekindle the legend of Shakespeare and Company, the most famous bookstore in the world. This literary venue is well-known, among many other reasons, for providing accommodation to writers who come to Paris in search of inspiration free-of-charge on the upper floor of the shop. In exchange, they are expected to help stack the new releases that keep coming in, as well as serve and chat with customers. A huge number of literary figures have slept over in that loft – George Whitman estimates they number some 40,000. They include both anonymous enthusiasts and those who have ended up becoming paramount figures of the literary world. Prominent among our own literary figures is Terenci Moix who in his autobiography dedicates some passages to George Whitman and his stay at Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie).

Abbey Bookshop

Another of the most endearing bookstores in Paris is Abbey Bookshop. Located just a stone’s throw away from Shakespeare and Company, it is run by a Canadian whose warmth and friendliness are simply beyond words. The store is notable for its endless list of works in English (29 rue de la Parcheminerie).

Artazart

Located on the bucolic Canal St Martin, Artazart is a must-visit spot for design lovers. There, they will be enthralled not only by a stunning range of books and magazines on the subject but by some of the most outlandish design objects, on sale in the shop (83 Quai de Valmy).

Assouline

“The Most Sophisticated Books in the World” is the motto of Assouline Publishing. With branches in New York, London and Paris, its venue in the Saint Germain des Prés quarter features a boutique where you can purchase their publications, if you can afford them (35, rue Bonaparte).

Gibert Jeune

In the centrally located Place Saint-Michel, rather than a single bookstore per se, Gibert Jeune has several premises scattered around the square, each devoted to a different subject: literature, history, biography, etc. It can take up a whole afternoon’s browsing – and even two! (Place Saint-Michel)

L’Arnaqueur

A store featuring rare books, its major appeal lies in its boundless collection of titles dedicated to cinema, photography and art in general. In addition to books, the shop carries a huge selection of posters, acetates and promotional photos. A film-worthy experience for visitors (13 Rue Gerbier).

L’Écume des Pages

A bookstore purpose designed for those who cannot go to sleep without first reading for a while. At L’Écume des Pages, you will not manage to exhaust their wealth of titles, despite the shop staying open until midnight, except for Sundays, when they close at 10 p.m. to get a break (174 Boulevard Saint-Germain).

Ofr. 

Freedom, fashion, design, Paris, elegance, class, youth, vibrant cultural urge… these are the words used by Ofr. to describe their publishing policy. A bookstore and exhibition gallery geared to art, design and fashion targeting the modern set, hipsters and other contemporary birds. Welcome to your Parisian intellectual gymnasium! (20 rue Dupetit-Thouars)

Ulysse

If Paris is just your first port of call on a long journey, make sure to drop in on Ulysse, one of the best bookstores in town and anywhere as far as globe-trotters and other migratory species are concerned (26 rue Saint-Louis en Île).

Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Dustin Gaffke, craigfinlay, Groume, Arnaud Malon, Luc Mercelis, Blowing Puffer Fish

Its markets are the best place to take the pulse of any city,places where you can experience the day-to-day life of the people and mingle with the local population. This is no less true in Saint Petersburg, where haggling is encouraged and stallholders will even offer you their wares without any kind of pressure to buy.

Kuznechny Market

The most central and representative of the markets in Saint Petersburg (and also the most expensive) is the Kuznechny Market where you will find flowers, vegetables, cheeses and natural honey for sale.

Numerous attractions are located close to the market: the Arctic and Antarctic Museum can be found in the former Church of Saint Nicholas and includes exhibits on the characteristics of the polar regions, the history behind the conquest of the Great North and the economy and culture of the Nordic people. The Floral Exhibition Centre, the Vladimirskaya Church and the Lensoveta Culture Centre at 42 Kamennoostrovsky Avenue are also worth visiting.

The Dostoevsky Museum is another nearby attraction – the place where this famous writer and author of such novels as ‘Crime and Punishment’, ‘Demons’ and ‘The Idiot’ lived and died. This house museum has been faithfully restored to how it was originally.

If you get hungry, why not try the Marius Pub or the Tres Amigos restaurant. However, if it is thirst that needs quenching, Mollie’s Irish Bar is a great place for a drink.

Sennoy Market

What was once an old hay market has now become a major food market with clothing stalls that fill the surrounding streets.

A large part of  ‘Crime and Punishment’ by Dostoevsky is set in the streets of the Sennaya district, where the Sennoy Market is to be found. It is more popularly known as the Dostoevsky District.

It is an excellent area for a spot of shopping in the large department stores. Sennaya Square is a bustling hive of activity where you can find the famous PIK and the large Sennaya Shopping Centre.

For some nice, reasonably-priced home-made food, you should head over to Kafe Adzhika.

If you’re up for a short walk, take a stroll over to Yusupov Palace, located on the edge of the River Moika and one of the most spectacular monuments to classicism to be found in Saint Petersburg.

Sitni Market

On the small Zayachy Island in the River Neva is the true historical centre of the city: Peter and Paul Fortress, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. Peter I the Great ordered its construction in 1703 and it contains such remarkable buildings as the Peter and Paul Cathedral, where all the Tsars from Peter I the Great to Nicholas II and his family are buried. Standing 122 metres tall, the cathedral bell tower is the highest point in the city.

Although initially designed for defensive purposes, it never needed to be used for that but rather served as a prison until 1917. Its most famous prisoners included such individuals as Trotski, Dostoevsky and Bakunin.

Also nearby is the Saint Petersburg Zoo and the Political History Museum.

A good choice for something to eat would be the popular Salkhino restaurant where they serve Georgian cuisine. In the evening, you might want to try out the legendary Tunnel Club, the first techno club to open in Russia.

Vernisazh Souvenir Market

Less of a market and more a collection of souvenir stalls, this is to be found behind the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ or the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood and is one of the most popular tourist sites and an attraction in itself. Here you will find many traditional Russian gifts and souvenirs.

The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander III was killed. The interior and exterior mosaic decorations are fantastic, as are its stained glass windows. The temple was built in the Russian architectural style of the 16th-17th Centuries (pure Russian orthodox) and bears a striking resemblance to Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square.

Its five large bulbous domes decorated in numerous colours and gold, as well as the meticulous detail work that covers the exterior, are yet more features that make this an outstanding piece of architecture.

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The environs of Madrid are no less alluring than the city itself. In just over an hour you can steep yourself in nature, view one of the masterpieces of Spanish architecture, feast on a cochinillo asado near a Roman aqueduct or relive a battle from the Civil War. Fancy discovering some of these destinations?

1. El Escorial – A Classic Among Classics

The monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial is the major landmark in a town located less than an hour from Madrid. It was originally commissioned by Philip II as a pantheon for the royal family. In 1563, work commenced under the direction of Juan Bautista de Toledo, but, after his death, it was his successor, Juan de Herrera, who was entrusted with completing the work. Behind the sober Herreran exterior lie a number of striking rooms and other areas, prominent among them being the Basilica and the Library, decorated with magnificent frescoes. Another standout feature is the painting collection by artists of the calibre of Velázquez, Jan van Eyck, Hieronymus Bosch, Titian, Tintoretto and Roger van der Weyden.

Apart from the Monastery, other interesting sights include the Casa del Alcalde Mayor (Magistrate’s House), the Casa del Infante (Prince’s House), the Casita del Príncipe (Prince’s Lodge) and the Church of San Bernabé.

Lastly, any outing to El Escorial would be incomplete without a stopover at Charolés to try their fabulous cocido –an imperious must!

2. Segovia – the Aqueduct and Beyond

Just over an hour from Madrid lies the beautiful city of Segovia, famed for its major landmark, the Roman Aqueduct. This symbol of the city was built by the Romans to bring water to Segovia from the Sierra. It is a veritable feat of engineering which never fails to have a stunning impact on the observer. But, visitors to Segovia are in for more surprises too, as its old town reveals some marvels and magical spots. Notable examples include the Cathedral of Santa María, known as the “Lady of Cathedrals”, and the Jewish Quarter, with its former synagogue converted into the Church of Corpus Christi, while literary boffins should seek out the Antonio Machado House Museum. Your visit can be rounded off by a tour of the Alcázar, set on top of a hill, which boasts striking Mudéjar decoration.

Another standout feature of Segovia is its cuisine, celebrated above all for its cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig), a delicacy you should really treat yourself to. Some of the classical venues for savouring it include the Mesón de Cándido and the Restaurante José María.

3. Chinchón – Medieval Past and Culinary Variety

If only for its Plaza Mayor (Main Square), this town situated 45 kilometres from Madrid is well worth visiting. The square, medieval in origin, is surrounded by two- and three-storey houses faced with rows of wooden balconies and lintelled galleries which catch the attention of first-time visitors to Chinchón. For centuries the square acted as a temporary stage for all kinds of performances, notably theatre plays, bullfights, royal festivals and religious services. A short distance from the Plaza Mayor stands the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, displaying a blend of Gothic, Plateresque, Renaissance and Baroque architectural styles. Be sure to venture inside to see Goya’s painting of the The Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Needless to say, Chinchón also has culinary delights in store for you, characterised by a fusion of tradition and the latest gastronomic trends. And, before you leave, you simply must taste their most popular liqueur – anisette.

4. Paredes de Buitrago – in the Footsteps of the Spanish Civil War

If your thing is nature, but you are also interested in history, don’t hesitate to head for Paredes de Buitrago to visit the site of the so-called Frente del Agua (Water Front). During the Civil War, this front was established to defend Puentes Viejas and El Villar, two crucial spots for ensuring the water supply. Comparatively easy to complete on foot, the 12-kilometre layout of the site reveals the remains of bunkers, trenches and pillboxes which came under the control of both sides in the conflict. A heady dose of recent history in the open air makes this a countryside outing with a difference, and just an hour’s drive from Madrid.

5. The Cuenca Alta del Manzanares Regional Park – Nature in its Pure State

Situated in the Sierra de Guadarrama, north-west of Madrid, it was listed as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1993. A prominent feature of this reserve is La Pedriza, one of Europe’s most celebrated granite formations, featuring some amazing rock shapes produced by erosion. The vegetation is dominated by holm oak, which takes up 62% of the Park’s surface area. Bird-lovers should head for the nearby Santillana Dam, with its enormous variety of water fowl and migratory birds. At the foot of the dam stands the Castle of Manzanares El Real, also known as the Castle of the Mendozas. Built in the 11th century, it is one of the best preserved castles in the Community of Madrid.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Chris Gladis, Jerome Bon, Kus Cámara, Jose Luis Cernadas Iglesias, Raúl A.-