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Historia y vino en Saint Émilion

Named after a monk –Émilion, a sort of Robin Hood – this locality lies some 38 kilometres from Bordeaux, from which it can be reached by either car or train in about half an hour. By strolling through its steep, cobbled streets, the visitor becomes immersed in history… and wine. The aroma of Bacchus wafts through the whole town, located among vineyards planted with the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties.

You can soak up most of its charms in a single day, but I assure you that you will want to stay there forever. Much of Saint-Émilion’s history lies buried in the earth, conjuring up a past full of Masonic societies and secret grottos swathed in an air of mystery, adding to the appeal of this World Heritage Site town.

Subterranean Worlds

A must-visit sight is the Monolithic Church, the largest of its kind in Europe. Carved out of a cliff, you cannot possibly imagine its sheer size from the outside. This architectural jewel also houses catacombs where the ancient nobles were buried. Guided tours are available in various languages and tickets can be purchased at the tourist office. They are well worth getting. The guided tour in Spanish always starts at 12 a.m.

If you are an enthusiast of underground worlds, you can also visit a number of wine cellars, notably the Chateau Cardinal Villemaurine, Clos des Menuts and Maison Galhaud, to name but a few. In all, there are over 100 châteaux where you can taste all kinds of wines with the DO Saint Émilion. A word of warning – during the tastings, remember to spit out the wine from time to time, to avoid it going to your head and having to regret something you did the day before.

Strolling Through the Town

The area surrounding the town offers picture postcard scenery and romantic walks. Strolling up and down the steep streets holding hands with your partner makes for what feels like an obstacle race over uneven cobblestones, as if it were a metaphor of love.

Your stroll will lead you to the Gate de La Cadène, an archway separating the upper part of the town, home to the wealthy classes, from the lower part, inhabited by the peasants.

In the Middle Ages, Saint-Émilion was defended by a fortified enclosure, the wall stretching some 1,500 metres. Access to the town was via six gates – the Porte Bourgeoise in the north, Porte Brunet in the east, Chanoines and Saint-Martin in the west, and Porte Bouqueyre or Bouquière and Sainte-Marie in the south. The Porte Brunet, which leads into the vineyards, is the only one which has been preserved virtually intact. It is well worth coming to this side of the town where all you can hear is the sound of bird song.

Another monument visible from most of the town is the King’s Tower. You can visit the top for €1.5 and soak up the views, which leave you speechless.

Macaroons For Afternoon Tea

Before Ladurée reinvented the formula, making them double and in various colours and flavours, macarons had long existed as a spongy almond biscuit with a great tradition in towns such as Saint-Émilion. In the 17th century, the Ursuline nuns in this locality were tasked with harvesting the almonds and using them in their pastries, which is how macaroons were created. They are still famous throughout the region. You can purchase them in two shops with a long-standing tradition in the town – Matthieu Mouliérac and Fabrique des Véritables Macarons. If you are really sweet-toothed and still require a further injection of sugar, try their canelés, small pastries typical of Bordeaux. The recipe was also developed by a monastic order, this time in the 16th century. Absolutely delicieux!

Brasseries, Foie Gras and Cheese For Dinner

There are numerous restaurants offering traditional cuisine, as well as brasseries, the ideal venues for having canard (duck) and entrecôte. If you fancy eating typical French cheeses, some foie gras and even some oysters while tasting a selection of wines, the restaurant L’Envers du Décor is the ideal spot. They have a small patio for warm summer evenings and their wine list is as long as a Cervantes novel. Let the waiter recommend what to order and abandon yourself to the aromas of Dionysius.

Discover the joie de vivre, book your Vueling to Bordeaux and have a good time!

 

Text by Miriam Arcera for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Antonio Caballero

 

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Pink Floyd’s Soul Returns to Pompeii

What remains of Pink Floyd 45 years on? In truth, very little. With Roger Waters touring half the world with his 3D show,The Wall,and Richard Wright’s disappearance eight years ago, of the avant-garde rock band which dominated the show scene in the 70s and part of the 80s, only Nick Mason and the lead, David Gilmour, are left from the original group to spearhead the effort.

A Touch of History

Pink Floyd is one of the best bands of all time; no doubt about it. This is attested by their records and their endurance in the top positions among the benchmark groups for decades. Granted, they didn’t invent the concept album – The Who had invented it just before them – but it was they who exploited it to its full expression.

Pink Floyd has some records to its name. Perhaps the most striking one is having had a disc on the Billboard list for 889 weeks (over 17 years) in a row; indeed, their album was on the list longer than any other disc ever. With an estimated 50 million copies sold, The Dark Side of the Moon is Pink Floyd’s most successful album and the top-selling rock disc ever, coming in second in worldwide record sales behind Michael Jackson’s Thriller. But, their success is not limited to that 1973 album. They were famous before that, too. At the end of the sixties, they were the flagship of the British psychedelic scene. Their early records, when Syd Barrett also played in the group, acted as a magnet for a whole seething mass of new ideas and experimentation. Likewise, The Dark Side of the Moon wasn’t their only pinnacle of success – their subsequent albums were on a par, although they weren’t able to match the level of sales. Thus, the decade of the seventies was theirs – with the permission of Led Zeppelin and The Rolling Stones – thanks to such legendary tracks as Animals, Wish You Were Here and, above all, The Wall, which was made into a film directed by Alan Parker and starring Bob Geldof.

What Happened in Pompeii?

It is a well-known fact that Pink Floyd’s live concerts were in technological terms the most spectacular shows for several decades. They actually reigned supreme until the early nineties, up to the time that U2 staged a tour with their album, Achtung Baby. Live performances were always one of Pink Floyd’s fortes right from the outset, when the original crew delighted the crowds on London’s university and underground circuits. Those were the days of British psychedelics, and their concerts were a veritable sensorial experience, thanks to the support of screenings and performances. To get a better idea of what they were like, it is worth seeing the film, Tonite Let’s All Make Love in London, directed by Peter Whitehead, which includes performances by the London band from those times.

In the seventies, by then without Syd Barrett, the group continued to flourish. Their music shifted from psychedelic to progressive rock, while technological devices became gradually more entrenched in their live shows. But, before becoming one of the stadium bands par excellence, they embarked on a project that ended up becoming one of the great milestones in rock history. They joined forces with the movie director, Adrian Maben, with a view to shaping a film project they were working on. The result was Pink Floyd Live at Pompeii, set in the mythical ruins of the Roman city which was devastated by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in AD 79.

The project was hatched quite coincidentally. The director, Adrian Maben, had simply phoned Stephen O’Rourke, Pink Floyd’s manager, in the early seventies, and suggested making a movie with the group. At that time the idea was to produce a very arty piece and to elicit the participation of artists of the standing of Magritte, De Chirico,Christo and Jean Tinguely who would create on a visual level what Pink Floyd created in sound. But, they never managed to reach an agreement. Months later, Maben went to Italy with his girlfriend of the time and visited the ruins of Pompeii. That evening he discovered he had lost his passport and, thinking back, he decided he must have left it in the Pompeii amphitheatre. He went back to the spot at dusk and there, among the monuments, sculptures and paintings of a place that had frozen in time, Maben experienced his great moment of inspiration – it was the ideal spot to film Pink Floyd. In the near mystic silence of nightfall, he realised that Pompeii had it all – death, sex and oodles of latent life. And there, in that amphitheatre, Pink Floyd could bring it all back to life.

45 Years Later

Last March, Italy’s Minister of Culture, Dario Franceschini, confirmed in his Twitter account that the 70-year-old British guitarist, David Gilmour, would play in Pompeii on 7 and 8 July. There, you have it – Pink Floyd’s lead will again perform at the legendary archaeological site, forty-five years after having been the leading light in the shooting of the movie, Live At Pompeii. On this occasion, he will be presenting the tracks from his latest release, Rattle That Lock. However, the possibility that he might also play songs by his former band has not been ruled out. Recall that Gilmour and Nick Mason still hold the operating rights to practically the whole of Pink Floyd’s legacy.

Be sure to relive the magic of one of the best concerts ever. You can also enjoy a tour of the most famous Roman archaeological site in the world. Check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Gustav Klimts Vienna

It would be impossible to imagine 20th-century Vienna without the amazing art legacy of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918). While his primary subjects were the female nude and portraits of Vienna’s high society, the works of this symbolist painter continue to fascinate experts and amateurs alike. Today we tour Vienna in search of the oeuvre of one of the most compelling painters of all times.

“To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”

The best way to come to grips with Klimt’s legacy in Vienna is by starting at the building of the Vienna Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich and sited at 12 Friedrichstrasse. A dome festooned with laurel leaves crowns a facade which bears the motto of the Secession, “To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”. The motto is accompanied by a frieze created by Klimt in 1902 as a tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven. Visitors to the building were greeted by the Beethoven Frieze, one of his most celebrated works. Measuring 34 metres long by 2.15 metres high, it was not put on public display again until 1986.

This famous painting recalling Wagner conducting Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony was actually intended for a temporary exhibition, but was saved from destruction by a collector. It was divided up and acquired by the Austrian state again in 1973, and exhibited once more as of 1986.

After the Vienna Secession building, our next stop is the must-visit Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorisches Museum). After entering, as you go up the staircase, look up at the 40 paintings on the columns and arches executed by the three artists making up the so-called Society of Artists, whose members were Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst and Franz Matsch.

The Burgtheater

After completing their work at the Museum, the Society of Artists was commissioned to execute a number of frescoes on the two staircases of the Burgtheater (Universitätsring, 2). The project was so successful that the painters were decorated by Emperor Franz Josef. On the main staircase, Klimt recreated the Theatre in Taormina, while on the other he provided a depiction of the Globe Theatre in London featuring the final scene from Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet." This work includes what is regarded as the only self-portrait he ever painted.

A stone’s throw from the Burgtheater lies the Karlsplatz, one of the city’s nerve centres, which boasts some of the most famous buildings of the Vienna Secession. Prominent landmarks include the Otto Wagner Pavilion (built in 1900 for the Vienna Metro lines), the Künstlerhaus and the Art History Museum, which houses some of Klimt’s works, notably Pallas Athene and a portrait of Emilie Flöge. He was very attached to Emilie, his sister-in-law, although there is no evidence that they romanced, as some claim. He also painted many other women, including Maria Zimmermann (Mizzi), Johanna Staude and Adele Bloch-Bauer, of whom he did two portraits.

The Belvedere

The Belvedere Palace Museum houses some of Klimt’s most acclaimed paintings, chiefly  two icons of his “Golden Phase”The Kiss and Judith I. Gustav’s father and brother were gold engravers, which accounts for his foray into golden ornamentation and his use of gold leaf. The Belvedere houses more works by Klimt than any other gallery – twenty-four, in all. However, you should also make a point of visiting the Leopold Museum, in the heart of the Museumsquartier (MQ). Displayed alongside works by Schiele are Klimt’s Death and Life, in addition to a study for Judith II and a view of Lake Atter.

Villa Klimt

Gustav Klimt had several studios during his lifetime, but the only one which has survived to the present is where he spent the last few years of his life. The Klimt Villa, situated on the Feldmühlgasse 11, was re-opened to the public in 2012 after being rebuilt from period photos. While it does not house original works, it provides an interesting insight into the life of this universal artist.

Don’t pass up the chance to discover the work of Gustav Klimt – book your Vueling here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Eating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I

Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.

Tinel

Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.

Skola

Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.

Proto

First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.

Kopun

A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.

Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles ­– an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.

Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.

It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.

Lero Hotel

When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.

After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Grastronomistas

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