Top 5 Gastronomy Or Why Lanzarote Is An Indie Destination
“The moon? Mars? Iceland? No, it’s Lanzarote!” You will often catch yourself thinking this as you roam this fascinating island along roads traversing uninhabited places, without anyone for miles around you. You will also wonder what it might be like to live in this pleasant land of disturbing beauty, surrounded everywhere by raging Atlantic waves relished by surfers from all over the world.
Tracts of lunar land alternating with stretches of desert, and others carpeted in vegetation, where palm trees stand side by side with lava fields, wild beaches, small fishing villages and, of course, the ubiquitous seaside developments catering to mass tourism.
And, as you contemplate the impossible patterns forged by centuries of intermittent lava flows in the rocks, and you hear the roar of the waves while munching on papas con mojo,you regret that the incomprehensible tourist dynamic should have earmarked Lanzarote as the almost exclusive preserve of family holidaymakers and honeymoon couples. That is when you wish Lanzarote would bare its Indie streak, without renouncing its conventionalism, and that we “Peninsulars” – that is what we have been dubbed by the witty locals – would make the trip at least once a year to this island overflowing with charm, which also has its less predictable side. And this chart of rankings proves it.
1- El Chupadero. Its owner, Barbara, is a former model and erstwhile German New Yorker. One day in the eighties, she came across a derelict building in the middle of the island and fell prey to its charm. She decided to refurbish it with her own hands and settle there permanently, along with her two small children. That was how this restaurant was born, unwittingly hipster to the marrow, where every corner is a marvel of good taste and the menu the epitome of indigenous cuisine based on excellent produce.
2- Bar Stop. At the other end of the island, in Yaiza, lies this legendary establishment, which dates from 1890. It has a homely feel and more than reasonable prices and appears not to have changed one jot since its beginnings. Bar Stop is a place where you can enjoy deliciously rustic home cooking any time of the day while you eavesdrop on the locals chattering away – they also seem to have come fresh from 1890, brimming with friendliness and hospitality.
Plaza Ntra. Sra. de los Remedios (Yaiza).
3- La Lupe. Going to Lanzarote only to end up eating in a Mexican, considering the oodles of papas arrugadas that are shouting to get our attention, may seem rather reckless. But, once you’ve tried La Lupe’s delicatessen and sense that it comes hot from the heart of Mexico City, you realise that you have found an exceptional Mexican cuisine. Carefully crafted tacos, enchiladas, moles and other delicacies in a highly recommendable Mexican restaurant. Ideal for dining to a Tequila rhythm before lighting up the night at Noise.
4- NoiseClub Lanzarote. This is what we might term Lanzarote’s underground concert venue, whose owners fight daily to create an Indie atmosphere in the very heart of the capital, Arrecife. Noise is a small, inviting venue featuring live performances on Friday and Saturday after 11.30 p.m. Performers are often musicians from the Peninsula, in line with the open-minded approach of the artificers of Noise and their urge to bring out a less conventional side of Lanzarote. Performances are variegated, ranging from funk to techno.
5- Lagomar. One of the world’s greats who succumbed to the charms of Lanzarote was Omar Sharif. Indeed, he ended up building a formidable house at the seaside, by way of a large, stunningly beautiful fortress, now turned into a restaurant and wine bar. Every nook in the maze-like interior of Lagomar is a fiesta, from the elegant dining-room to the small bar counter surrounded by armchairs, the beautiful gardens and the pool crowning the patio. It is the ideal spot for having a well crafted glass of wine and for enjoying, any day of the week, the pleasant temperatures of Lanzarote and the anachronistic aura – in the best sense of the word – which still pervades this legendary precinct.
Where to Sleep
Sands Beach Lanzarote: This stunning, four-star resort on the Costa Teguise, just 15 minutes from the airport, will play havoc with those who have difficulty getting their bearings. Six huge swimming pools – one of which is heated – a spa, gaming hall, supermarket, activities at all hours and enormous rooms with a kitchen make up this complex with its private beach, where guests are treated like kings and prices are actually affordable.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas
more info
A Thousand and One Asturias
The allure of Asturias ranges from high mountains to beaches on the best preserved coastline in all Spain, and cutting-edge artwork alongside traditional craft and Palaeolithic art listed as World Heritage. All crammed into a territory accounting for just 2% of Spain’s land area. But, we have to give you some specific pointers, so here goes…
For those planning for family holidays, make sure you head for the Dinosaur Coast, especially now that they are in limelight on the silver screen. In Asturias you can see and touch actual footprints of fossilised dinosaurs in the rock at La Griega beach, under the Tereñes cliffs, on a really incredible stretch of Asturian coastline by any account. To crown your dinosaur tour, you should visit the Jurassic Museum of Asturias, a building sited in a privileged spot featuring exhibits as meticulously presented as they are playful. The museum offers a host of activities and children’s workshops.
For couples looking to get away from it all, Asturias boasts places where time stands still, including Taramundi and Oscos-Eo, where traditional craftworkers are still highly active and you can even try your hand at some trade. Care to be a ferreiro (blacksmith) for a day? Here you will find villages that take you back to bygone eras, such as Os Teixois and Mazonovo, which boast hydraulic devices that convert water power into energy using a system of mills, forges and fulling mills. Moreover, you can’t fail to switch off in any of our six UNESCO-listed Biosphere Reserves, or on the tranquil beaches, with small, secluded coves far removed from overcrowding.
For die-hard urbanites seeking to articulate a city of 800,000 inhabitants through various towns, each with its own culture and outlook on life, situated less than a 20-minute drive from one another, you have cosmopolitan Gijón, monumental Oviedo, dynamic Avilés, mining Langreo and Mieres. This is the centre of Asturias which features a string of varied urban proposals set in a nature paradise, within minutes of listed biosphere reserves.
For the more adventurous, whether in groups, couples or families, Asturias offers a thousand and one options for active tourism, from canyoning down its rivers to paragliding, mountain biking, trekking, surfing, sailing, caving and gold-panning. All accompanied by the top professional guides to guarantee you get the most out of your experience.
For those hankering after authenticity, in summer Asturias bursts into hundreds of fiestas in praise of nature, local heritage and the joy of living of a people who on these occasions open up and become more gregarious than ever, inviting one to participate in ebullient festivities. Some festivals are devoted to local produce, such as the Natural Cider Festival in Navas; other events, to sport and nature, such as the International Descent of the River Sella, or the patron saint celebrations in the towns – San Agustín, in Avilés, Begoña in Gijón and San Mateo in Oviedo.
For treasure-hunters, Asturias boasts a peerless heritage, including Europe’s most homogeneous early-medieval architectural complex, embodied in its pre-Romanesque art, and cave paintings from the Upper Palaeolithic, both UNESCO-listed as World Heritage. But, treasure-hunters in the strict sense of the word should head to Navelgas (Tineo), where they can pan for (and find) gold nuggets in the river. In early August, the World Gold Panning Championship is due to be held here, attracting gold panners from all over the world.
For those looking for good food, Asturias is a veritable banquet, both in terms of quality and quantity. What’s more, you can delve into the secrets behind our local produce, such as the cheese maturation caves in the Picos de Europa, while admiring the incredibly sheer slopes dotted with vineyards that yield Cangas wine, and follow our cider-making process in traditional cider presses. In Asturias, you can enjoy our gastronomy with all five senses.
In addition, accommodation is in plentiful supply here, from hotels to rural tourism homes, campsites and apartments, while summer is not overbearing, with mild temperatures to ensure a salutary rest in the company of the inherently hospitable Asturian people. What more could you ask for?
How to go about discovering this all? Visit the turismoasturias website where all the resources Asturias has to offer are one click away. And, to get there, what better than a direct flight? Check out our flights here.
Milan's business side
By Belén Parra and Carme Gasull
Milan is the model of that Italian north in constant contrast to the south of the country. A cosmopolitan city representing industrial drive and modernity as ways to open up and promote itself worldwide. From fashion to food and art to football, few people are unable to place this capital on the map. A source and destination for business, it's a good idea to discover what it has to offer.
Where to stay
Hotel The Gray
Via San Raffaele, 6
www.sinahotels.com
This hotel could not have a better location. The city centre is right around the corner from your room and the views are superb. So much so that you'll want to spend more time there. Modern, cool and elegant whilst remaining discreet... A five star hotel with 21 spacious fully equipped rooms where no detail is overlooked. A varied buffet breakfast alongside à la carte dishes and impeccable service. It is served in Le Noir restaurant, where reservations can also be made for dinner. Free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel (including the 'communal' terrace) with a personal password for every device. The Gray is one of the 520 independent hotels listed in Small Luxury Hotels of the World ™ (SLH), a selection of charming establishments in 70 countries around the world - from avant-garde designer hotels to palatial 17th-century mansions, sanctuaries in city centres to remote private islands, historical homes to idyllic resorts.
Where to eat
Al Pont de Ferr
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 55
pontdeferr.it/
Earth, fire, water and air. The four elements on a plate. Uruguay native Matías Perdomo and Argentina born Simón Press have revolutionised this historic osteria owned by Maida Mercuri, the first female sommelier in Italy. An explosive trio in Naviglio Grande, a bustling must-see area to get a feel for the city.
Rebelot del Pont
Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55
This premises, an off-shoot of Al Pont de Ferr, opened just one year ago. A more informal setting, the head chef is the young Brazilian Maurizio Zillo, who trained in different Spanish kitchens. Miniature cuisine or Italian-style 'tapas' (and drinks) at a great price.
Cracco
Via Victor Hugo, 4
www.ristorantecracco.it
This is the great benchmark of avant-garde cuisine in Milan. Two Michelin stars. The owner and chef Carlo Cracco, alongside head chef Lucca Sacchi, serve up a menu offering the whole of Italy on a plate, extolling it with immense creativity. Located next to the Duomo and some of the gourmet spots in the city such as Peck and Ladurée. A luxury.
Pisacco
Via Solferino, 48
www.pisacco.it
Carefree, informal and packed. Owned by several partners, including chef Andrea Berton, who has a signature restaurant in the same city. The menu includes light tasty dishes: marinated salmon, vitello tonnato and a delicious veal hamburger with chips created by the chef. Free Wi-Fi.
Where to shop
Eataly
Milano Smeraldo Piazza XXV Aprile, 10
www.eataly.it
Opened recently in the premises of the former Teatro Smeraldo, it offers the entire wealth of the Italian pantry over several floors. Cheeses, wines, sausages, sweets, fresh pasta, cookery books... It is a beautiful place with a piano to host near-acoustic concerts. It also offers cookery classes for amateurs and even children.
La Rinascente
Piazza Duomo, 10
www.rinascente.it
Teas, coffees, preserves, sweets... On the top floor of the building you can try and/or buy any gourmet product you fancy. Specialised food stands for sushi, tapas or pasta and enjoying the Duomo from above. Indeed, it'll feel right on top of you if you decide to eat on the terrace. A hugely popular tourist destination, it's a good idea to avoid heading there at the weekend. Next door to the marvellous hotel The Gray.
La Feltrinelli Red
Piazza Gae Aulenti, 20
www.lafeltrinelli.it
Read, eat, dream. There are many branches of Italy's most emblematic bookshop but you won't find a more gastronomic one than here. The décor breathes food all around and you can eat or have a drink whilst losing yourself in its selection of books. For all ages. Located in the newest part of town.
10 Corso Como
Corso Como, 10
www.10corsocomo.com
A small garden welcomes you to the café-restaurant, clothes and designer gift shop, and art gallery. Located on a pedestrian street that links old Milan to the city's new skyscrapers.
Where to have a drink
Armani Bamboo Bar
Via Alessandro Manzoni, 31
milan.armanihotels.com
Located on the seventh floor of the stylish Armani Hotel and just around the corner from the city's fashion quarter. It is the ideal spot to see and be seen, hold a relaxed meeting and enjoy the famous Aperitif.
Champagnerie
Corso Matteotti, 4/6
milano.boscolohotels.com
As its name suggests, this is the favourite haunt for those who enjoy a good glass of champagne and who have something to celebrate. It is one of the lures of the Boscolo Hotel, where you can also enjoy delicious cocktails over stunning views.
So you feel like visiting Milan, do you? Book your flights here!
more info
Experience Donosti Through Sport
Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.
I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.
More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic
In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.
But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:
Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.
Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.
Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.
Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.
If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.
As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.
San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón – the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon – and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing – in September.
Cross de las tres playas – in October.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro
more info