In the Footsteps of Jack the Ripper
We have all heard about Jack The Ripper, surely the first media serial killer in history. His dark legacy has been an inexhaustible source of narrative material for over a century. Those mournful events have spawned both literary marvels and graphic novels such as From Hell, by Alan Moore and Eddie Campbell, in addition to movies and TV series and even the odd opera. There may be a dose of morbidity involved in the interest aroused by anything relating to the subject. However, what stokes the flames is undoubtedly the fact that the perpetrator of those crimes has never been found, sparking a host of theories on the matter.
While the identity of the culprit remains unclear, what is known is the names of his victims and the spots where their bodies were found. Theme tours are based in Whitechapel, the scene of those atrocities. In the late-19th century, the district was a veritable hotbed of crooks and a limitless breeding ground for venereal diseases. Fortunately, it is now a salutary area and one of the major arty districts in London, with the Whitechapel Art Gallery at the forefront. In fact, it has become a must for day trippers, thanks to its second-hand market, which runs up to the Whitechapel Market, where you can pick up bargains from Monday to Saturday in over 80 street stalls, selling anything from fruit to electronics, rugs and jewellery. It is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
The Dark Route
Regarding the question, Who was Jack the Ripper?, you probably won’t find out after a tour of the area, but you will get an idea of what it was like there in the year 1888, when the deeds took place. Various tours can be joined in Whitechapel. Following are details of some of the areas you will visit if you dare to relive the horrific story.
Osborn Street
This is where the first body of the two under investigation was found, although it wasn’t among the “canonical five” – of all the cases related to the Ripper, five are considered to be canonical, as they have several traits in common. The victim in question was Emma Elizabeth Smith, a prostitute who was attacked and raped in the street on 3 April 1888. She was found dead, with her ears cut off. Currently sited on this street is one of the most fashionable basement spaces in London, Apples and Pears, a designer bar with Japanese decor which is a cocktail bar by day, and a club by night. It has been graced by the likes of Kate Moss and David Beckham.
The Old Truman Brewery
This is where the second victim, Annie Chapman, was found. Over the last fifteen years, the 10 acres of derelict buildings from the former Truman Brewery have been refurbished as offices, retail outlets and venues for leisure and events, as well as art hatcheries. It is now a thriving complex of creative businesses, independent stores, malls, markets, bars and restaurants. At weekends it becomes the nerve centre of flea markets and tapas bars. Business and leisure combine to perfection here.
Durward Street (formerly Buck’s Row)
This is where the body of the 43-year-old Mary Ann Nichols – the first of the canonical five – turned up. The bodies of these women had their throats slit and presented mutilations on the abdomen and genital area, with facial disfigurement or a missing organ. Such was the modus operandi of the macabre butcher.
Mitre Square
On 30 September 1888, the body of Catherine Eddowes, aged 46, was found. She had a slashed throat and a large, deep wound on the abdomen. Her left kidney was missing. The police found part of her bloodied apron at the entrance to a house on Goulston Street. Also murdered on the same day at Dutfield’s Yard – now Henriques Street – was the 44-year-old Elizabeth Strice. Death was caused by an incision on the left side of the throat, which severed her carotid artery. A postcard was received by the Central News Agency by the alleged culprit, who claimed responsibility for the crime.
The Ten Bells Pub
Jack the Ripper and some of his victims are thought to have frequented various pubs in the area, notably The Ten Bells (84 Commercial Street), which has remained open on the same premises since 1752. It lies just a few yards from the Liverpool Street Underground station.
And Also…
Other landmarks you will see include Tower Hill Underground Station, the place chosen by Scotland Yard and the City of London Police to start their beat in search of the culprit, and St Botolph’s Church, a favoured haunt where the prostitutes of the time touted for customers. More information about the tour.
Whitechapel now stands for an alternative setting in the heart of the city. It is both classical and avant-garde, an area with a large number of mosques and such historic buildings as the Royal London Hospital. We urge you to come and discover it, even if you’re not particularly interested in Jack the Ripper. It’s a good opportunity to explore the streets of London’s famous East End, a charismatic district full of history and stories, like the one about the celebrated “elephant man”, as well as the Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane street markets andthe world famous Brick Lane, a street with a marked Asian presence, full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, at really affordable prices. (There are menus for six pounds which include two or three dishes to choose from, plus rice and a drink.)
Why wait to discover it all? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoSavouring Edinburgh At Your Leisure
Edinburgh’s epicurean facet includes Michelin-starred restaurants offering designer cuisine, as well as chocolate parlours, tea salons and sessions, wine bars, storytelling pubs and boutique hotels for a gargantuan Scottish breakfast, but the city is also great for a luxurious rest.
The watchword is to take things easy. Even if you only have a few hours to enjoy the Scottish capital, savouring it leisurely or rushing about will provide rather different memories. While relaxing over an after-dinner conversation will eat up any time you might have available to visit other attractions apart from culinary venues – on account of their opening hours – there are some tables well worth lingering at.
Edinburgh has more restaurants per capita than any other town in Britain. Indeed, they have lots to spare. Among them, four-starred Michelin venues offering signature cuisine, their chefs alternating gastro menus with more casual tasting arrangements. You’re likely to need an average of 3 hours for lunch or dinner at any of them. At The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin and his crew adorn the table with a map of Scotland which acts as a bill and pinpoints the origins of all the ingredients they use, thus emphasising they’re proud about sourcing local produce. He relies on his classic or seasonal menu and you will come to realise the scope and personality of a chef who is an idol in his homeland. His popularity is up there with Paul Kitching, of the restaurant 21212, where you are treated to something of an experience at a veritable Michelin two-star. Depending on your budget, you could try both venues and compare them, or else opt to combine one haute cuisine with a run-of-the-mill eatery. Chef Martin Wishart, for instance, offers both. While his like-named restaurant is unfettered by avant-garde creativity, The Honours bistro offers cuisine with French harkings in downtown Edinburgh. Be sure to try Wishart’s blend smoked salmon and the impressive wine list as well. It is as ambitious as the one at Bistro du Vin. Don’t think you’ve had too much to drink if you don’t find yourself surrounded by bottles as that’s precisely what sets it apart.
Not very far from Wishart’s “The Honours”, at 111 Rose Street, is Eteaket, where you can savour their different tea varieties and also buy them. The owner coaches the country’s leading chefs when it comes to drawing up their tea lists. If you prefer to sip your tea like a lord, head for the tea salon at Balmoral Hotel where they serve homemade pastries. There is no more tempting confectionery in these climes than their magnificent shortbread.
To explore the local larder of grilled meat and fish, make your reservation at award-winning Blackwood’s. This elegant little salon with just a few tables offers locally-sourced fare, generous portions of garnish and a bar where your whisky will taste different from anywhere else. The restaurant is housed in the exquisite Nira Caledonia hotel, which is good value for money. Set in a landscaped area and made up of two Neoclassical buildings, this boutique hotel has very few but immensely spacious rooms with views and exudes meticulous attention to detail. What better retreat than this hotel in the pleasant environment of Gloucester Place, where you can even have breakfast in the private garden of one of its rooms! If it’s fully booked, their buffet breakfast in the restaurant is not to be scoffed at either. Not to mention their “full Scottish breakfast”, made on the spot, which includes traditional haggis, black pudding, porridge and their scrumptious oatcakes and shortbread.
You will notice that Stockbridge is just a stone’s throw away. It is immediately recognisable from its upbeat atmosphere, its modest bistronomics – which do things properly – and branches of both the I.J. Mellis cheesemongers and Coco chocolatiers. Likewise, such wine bars as the Good BrothersWine Bar (4-6 Dean St), a discreet spot where you can have a fine drink and a great meal, too. Surprisingly good and reasonably priced. So much so you will want to return to Edinburgh.
Book your Vueling to Edinburgh and explore its culinary facet at your leisure.
Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com
more info5 deliciosos 5 delicious moments in Asturiasen Asturias
Copious meals at Picos de Europa
It’s not a secret that Picos de Europa is a great place to eat. Only in the area of Cabrales, over 40 types of cheese are prepared, being the region in Europe with a greater variety.
It was clear that, before we feast on great food, we needed to make some kind of effort, first. The most common route to follow in the area is at Cares, uphill at the beginning but nice and relaxed the rest of the way. Is almost like a baptism to trekking, much frequented on the weekends.
We opt to follow the route from Poncebos to Bulnes, an uphill and amusing where we meet mountain goats several times. Bulnes is a small village, the only place in Asturias that is not accessible by car. There are many houses here but most of them are bars, inns and restaurants where you can eat very well. We tried delicious fabes and other specialties from the province, like a pot of octopus and potatoes, the small chorizos with cider and the scorpion fish cake.
Trying the best fabada in the world (and a great cachopo)
By chance, right next to the hotel where we were staying in Villaviciosa there is Bedriñana cider bar, which was awarded in 2014 for the ‘best fabada in the world’. That is something very remarkable in Asturias!
The fabada, obviously, was delicious and, to top it off, as a second course we ordered a cachopo to share. Cachopo (or cachopu) is a very typical dish from Asturian cuisine, only suitable to resistant stomachs. It is made of two veal filets that can be filled with cheese, ham or other ingredients. Furthermore, wine plus a side dish of potatoes, pepper and mushrooms. The two of us couldn’t even finish the half of the dish.
Then is when we realised that you have to be very careful when you order a dish. If an Asturian waiter tells you that you’re not ordering enough, be prepared. A big feeding feast is awaiting you.
For the great seafood, go to Tazones
Close to Villaviciosa, Tazones has the essence of a fishermen town, with pretty cobblestone streets and low-lying houses with colourful balconies, and is the place to go to eat great seafood and fish. The choices and quality are immense, any of the restaurants in town is provided by local fisheries.
Delicious cocktails in Gijón
We took advantage of a quick visit to Gijón to try some cocktails at one of the most frequented places in town. Its name is Varsovia and can be located by San Lorenzo avenue, exactly at Cabrales, 18, in an iconic historical building with an interior of eclectic decoration and a great variety of furniture, from Chester sofas to old wooden furniture. The large windows provide the best views over Gijón beach.
The menu includes a great variety of cocktails, provided in an unbeatable atmosphere and with a great music selection to enjoy.
The cider: customs & practices
A different matter is cider, the Asturian drink by excellence, and how it must be served. Cider in Asturias usually costs no more than 3€ each bottle, with a dark green colour and usually purchased to be shared. It has low alcohol content so you can order many and still remain not too much drunk.
The technique to pour cider usually leads to funny moments, especially among beginners who waste more cider than what is served. It is necessary to pour the cider right in the border of the glass, to enhance the flavour and smell when it mixes with the oxygen from the glass. When the cider is served you should ask ¿quién bebe? (“who drinks?”) and the glass must be empty in one sip or two, not more. It can be considered impolite to keep the cider for too long in the glass, because it loses the properties.
If you are not good at pouring cider, you better ask the waiter to serve you a “culín” or “culete”. If you dare to pour it yourself, you should know that the stream should be as high as possible and break right at the border of the glass. You don’t want to shower the rest of the diners.
Why not take a trip to Asturias? Have a look at our flights here!
more infoSantorini Tell Me Where You Are, And I’ll Tell You Where To Eat
In summer, this beautiful island, with pristine white towns clinging to formidable cliff faces, welcomes the European jet set who come to bathe blithely in spectacular private pools with sea views. In parallel, another sector of the population ekes out a living offering donkey tours to Japanese tourists. These are the two faces of contemporary Greece, a land which still preserves that majestic profile of a lingering past, despite things crumbling around it, which has in Santorini a jewel that has not fallen prey to the horror of mass tourism and urban development. Following is a selection of four venues located in the salient spots in this piece of paradise where you can delight in the wonderful local cuisine.
Tranquilo (Perissa)
On a trip to Santorini, sooner or later you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of Perissa, its main claim to fame being its beaches – the Red Beach and the Black Beach. Perissa puts up more modest tourists than those who stay at the fantastic boutique hotels in beautiful Oia, Fira and Imerovigli. Hence, it is a good place to spend the night, as it is full of pretty, picturesque hotels, like the charming Kouros Village where we stayed, whose breakfasts on the terrace we still fondly recall.
By night, its seaside promenade speckled with restaurants is a good place to take cover from the exorbitant prices of other spots on the island and enjoy their down-to-earth Greek cooking. One such venue is Tranquilo, a beach bar with sea views where reggae sounds out continually and their friendly dreadlocked staff follow slow-food precepts to the letter, serving up delicious 0-km organic Greek food at laughable prices. Be sure to order youvetsi (Greek pasta) or one of their bio macro-salads.
Sphinx Wine Bar (Oia)
This restaurant in Oia, which opened just a few months ago, is the perfect spot for indulging in Greek wine and cuisine with creative flourishes based mainly on fish. It does not have sea views, but it does have a magical terrace in an alleyway in that beautiful, fairy-tale village, and its success is endorsed by that of its big brother – the Sphinx Restaurant in the capital, Fira.
This secluded corner, decorated in exquisite taste and with a cellar tailored to sybarites, has a spectacular wine list, which Panagiotis, their sommelier, knows by heart and will lecture you on in depth. Their array of dishes ranges from lobster with octopus to carpaccio and the odd nod to vegan and vegetarian cooking, as well as salads as their super-foods and desserts with such suggestive names as When Mango Meets Citrus.
The Wine Bar (Imerovigli)
At the Hotel Heliotopos in Imerovigli we came across an area called The Wine Bar which we advise you to try with an open mind and palate, prepared to taste more-than-interesting Greek wines. Located in a small natural cellar, which contributes to preserving the wine and endows the experience with a touch of magic, you can taste countless marvels produced from the local grape variety known as Assyrtico. We recommend you take your glass with you onto the terrace at dusk, to witness one of the best sunsets on earth.
Koukoumavlos (Fira)
In Fira, the capital, you have to tread carefully. There, all the restaurants look wonderful, with spectacular views over the sea, but you have a good chance of ending up with an apology for a moussaka. The capital of Santorini is crammed with dubious tourist draws, like the donkey ride that took us to the ferry which leads to a volcano, or the exorbitantly priced restaurant tourist traps. You should avoid making the mistakes we did, like becoming spellbound by the views and letting yourself be cajoled by a bearded waiter, a cross between Bardem and Varoufakis. So, take our advice and go for Koukoumavlos, a superb choice. Their €68 menu is a good way of enjoying the essence of this restaurant’s offerings. They have specialised in Mediterranean cuisine for the last 30 years, have endorsements from the public and critics alike, and the spot affords fantastic views of the volcano.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com
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