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Art In the Raw, Just Half an Hour from Copenhagen

A museum in Denmark named after an American state? This is not the only fetching fact about Louisiana. Located in the small town of Humlebæk, some 35 kilometres north of Copenhagen, Louisiana draws thousands of visitors each year to its alluring interior and exterior. Its contemporary art collection is truly extraordinary, as is – perhaps even to a greater degree – its siting, opposite the cold waters separating Denmark from Sweden, nestling in a vast area of parkland, trees and cliffs. Likewise its architectural design, seamlessly integrated into its surroundings.

The museum was founded in 1958 by the Danish businessman and philanthropist, Knud W. Jensen, who commissioned the first stage of the project to the architects Vilhelm Wohlert and JørgenBo. Oddly enough, the museum is not actually named after the American state, but on account of a coincidence – the previous owner of the land happened to marry three times, and each time his wife was named Louise! As the museum’s private collection is far larger than what can be displayed, many of the constituent works are loaned from one place to another. The building houses works by Lucien Freud, David Hockney, Asger Jorn (one of Denmark’s leading 20th-century artists), the Spaniard, Juan Muñoz, photographers such as the German, Thomas Demand, and the New Yorker, Cindy Sherman. And, what is likely the jewel in the crown – a room where a painting by Francis Bacon, and one of the most striking sculptures by Alberto Giacometti, are placed face to face, as if in the throes of an ongoing dialogue. In the garden we find several weighty sculptures, including one by Alexander Calder and another by Joan Miró – set just five metres apart and permanently chaperoned by the sea in the background – in addition to works by Louise Bourgeois and Max Ernst, among many others. 

You have just until the end of January – be quick! – to see a long-distance exhibition hosted by the museum, as well as an installation which raises eyebrows. The exhibition reviews the extensive, colourist and provocative work of the multi-disciplinary Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama (phallic sculptures, rooms painted in polka dots, rent garments and other marvels). The installation is a huge sculpture by the Canadian, David Altmejd, called The Flux and the Puddle, which takes up a whole room and is well nigh impossible to fathom – it involves a visceral, high-impact blend of methacrylate, food, taxidermy, strings and mirrors.

Louisiana is easy to reach from Copenhagen – at the Central Station in the capital, you take a Helsingor-bound train and get off at Humlebæk. That’s all. On your return, you are urged to explore the district of Vesterbro, adjoining the aforementioned Central Station. Once the haunts of prostitutes and crooks, it is now one of the most exciting and bustling city quarters, brimming with galleries, stores, cafés and restaurants. Make sure you stop off at Bang & Jensen, in Istedgade, which is open all day. Their lentil soup with curry and cilantro comes highly recommended, and you can also play some pinball and Arkanoid. Another landmark worth seeing is the so-called Meatpacking District, the former fish and meat market reconditioned as one of Copenhagen’s cool areas, where you can choose from among a host of appetising culinary offerings. For lovers of music and vinyl, the best spot in Vesterbro is undoubtedly Sort Kaffe & Vinyl, a small record shop cum bar. Or vice versa – a café with records. Its claim to fame is a small but carefully curated selection of folk, jazz, electronic, exotic and experimental music. For sleeping over and putting away a hearty breakfast the next morning, here are two recommendations in the same district: Bertrams Guldsmeden (very near Værnedamsvej, one of the prettiest streets in the city), and the Avenue Hotel, which has a beautiful patio if you happen to be there in spring or summer.

While the city itself is well worth the visit, the chance to see Louisiana and even spend some hours in Vesterbro makes this a well nigh compulsory trip. Why wait to book your flight to Copenhagen?

 

Text by Carles Novellas for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Carles Novellas and Anna Higueras

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Pintxos and Clubbing in Donosti

Having been invited on a pintxo crawl of San Sebastián by the club, Dabadaba, and to steer the DJ booth for revellers to dance to their heart’s content, I set out some hours ahead of my session to find the best pintxos in town. I was lucky to have my friend, Borja, as my guide. Apart from being a local, as well as producing and DJ’ing good music, he knows the temples of those delicious dinky bites like the back of his hand. Here we go…

Evenings In the Thick Of It

Our tour began at Txepetxa, home of the anchovy, offering all kinds of pintxos featuring that small yet noble fish, accompanied by cream of spider crab, sea urchin, olive paté, foie gras, stewed apple or trout and salmon roe. Everything looked awesome, but I opted for a fresh anchovy classic. Great! We went for a stroll to La Concha and headed into Narru, in the basement of the historic Hotel Niza, with views over the bay which clearly ratchets up the experience of tasting their dishes, notably their luma gorri (chicken wing) with potato, smashed fried egg and alioli or the secreto ibérico ham. Stunning! We retraced our steps to the old town and went into Zazpi, where the young chef, Paul Arrillaga, doles out happiness from his fiery helm in the form of a spectacular “potato volcano”, a pintxo based on truffle, egg and potato or an exquisite ox-tail ravioli. A veritable banquet. We made our way to Dabadaba.

After opening in April 2014, the locale has been graced by the likes of Allah-Las, Sean Nicholas Savage, The Godfathers and Omar Souleyman, among others. On stage were The Space Lady, a pioneer of electronic music, with a staging as minimalist as it is breathtaking. They bewitched us completely and, when we came down to earth again, we were faced by Fernando Lagreca churning out his particular electronic brand as a matchless prelude to my own set. My turn came. I started with some new releases I have been DJ’ing recently, interspersing themes from Italo disco, acid and disco bizarro. Things perked up and Dabadaba ended up dancing in full swing. A great night – we had a smashing time. Then we hit the hay.

Saturday In Donosti Is No Ordinary Saturday

Rising early is a virtue, but doing so when you’ve been to bed late is untenable. So we headed straight off in search of pintxos. Again in the old town, I was taken to Paco Bueno, a spot I wouldn’t miss for anything. Offering a meagre four or five pintxos, notably shrimp dumpling, hake in batter, croquettes and pie, this is one of the city’s most crowded bars, opened in 1950 by a retired boxer. The business was later taken over by his son, a rugby player, as is his brother, Chufo, and his son, Gorka. A family concern with warm, family service, the bar walls crammed with pictures of boxing and the sport with a melon-shaped ball – what else would you expect? Still in the inner city, we made for Borda Berri, whose staff are shared by La Cuchara de San Telmo, another illustrious pintxo temple. The star dish is their “kebap”, a delicious pork ribs with an incongruous name which prompts veritable pilgrimages to taste it. Other dishes with the same fate include their cheek of beef, octopus and risotto de Idiazábal. Just opposite lies Txuleta, specialising in meat dishes, if you fancy that. The best thing then was to work off the meal by striking out and we ended up at the Club Náutico de Donosti, with the whole La Concha bay before us. The sun was blazing that day and this spot was divine. The upstairs floor houses GU, another club where you can dance house or techno, depending on the night. I made a point of visiting Tabakalera before I left.

On the verge of making its debut as the European Capital of Culture, with the San Sebastián International Film Festival and the San Sebastián Jazz Festival among its leading cultural draws, the city boasts a peerless interdisciplinary space known as La Tabakalera. This public International Contemporary Culture Centre focuses on promoting upcoming local creatives and hosts activities revolving primarily around research, production and exhibition. Their feature-film and documentary seasons, exhibitions and Hirkilabs spaces, their Digital and Technology Culture Lab and Ubik – Tabakalera Creation Library – make this one of Donosti’s liveliest and most avant-garde hubs. The premises have character, set in a building that was once the city’s tobacco factory. A city with character, too.

There you have it – there’s a lot more to San Sebastián than La Concha. Fancy discovering it? Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Luis Costa for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

 

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6 magic places in Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is a city that never sleeps and offers a mix of opportunities to enjoy our stay there. Each neighborhood has its owns charms and each can have a unique and unforgettable experience:

1.- Old Jaffa

The old town, Old Jaffa , claims to be the neighborhood where the history of Tel Aviv begins. Its narrow streets and picturesque stone houses make you immerse in the old Ottoman Empire. This part of town is known for being one of the busiest and the main claim for tourists, attracted by the bohemian and art off its people and places. The flea market, Jaffa Flea Market , treasures all kinds of antique and curiosities that will not let us get away with empty hands. If we are hungry, Ali Karavan serves the best hummus in the world. Its main dish is hummus with beans and also the prices are very affordable. Another restaurant in the area to highlight is Dr Shakshuka , where you can taste the typical Israeli home cooking as much varied and tasty.

2.- Tel Aviv Port

This restless city is characterized by its port and beaches, washed by the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea . Tel Aviv offers spectacular views and it is a must walking around the harbor, which can be reached just leaving Old Jaffa. In Tel Aviv Port can be found especially local clubs or cocktail bars and a wide range of restaurants for all tastes. On the seafront is located Galina , an outdoor nightclub whose attendees are both tourists and locals. Theme nights for everyone are usually scheduled . Lovers of fish and shellfish can not say goodbye to Tel Aviv without delighting their palate in Manta Ray , number one shellfish in Israel . Another of their specialties is the cream of aubergine, a favorite for many of their guests . It is a perfect place for both a brunch with friends or to enjoy a romantic dinner by moonlight and the sound of the waves.

3.- Tel Aviv’s Downtown

Tel Aviv’s downtown hosts the most sophisticated shops in the city, from world famous brands to luxurious Israeli firms. The most emblematic of Tel Aviv are the great Dizengoff shopping center and the Bauhaus Center museum , in the heart of the city. We may also choose from a variety of restaurants that feature cuisine of extreme quality. Our favorites are the ice cream from Vaniglia and The Dinning Hall, a multicultural restaurant that fuses the culture of Israel through the cooking styles Sephardic, Ashkenazi, Arabic and Jebusites, always with Mediterranean and European connotations. The latter is located in the Performing Arts Center, on the boulevard of King Saul.

4.- Florentin

Florentin is a lively, bourgeois neighborhood of Tel Aviv. Where once was the working class’s refuge, in this last decade has been transformed and has been filled with artists, artisans and interesting people. Walking the Florentine streets is common to see graffiti on the walls or doors of houses, shops and establishments. Shuk Haaliyah spice market has become a must for all visitors to the city. We recommend to eat at Hahultziym 3, a restaurant that will make us dream with its parmesan-reggiano cheese, its kebabs, pitas roasted pork pitas and challah or bread stuffing Hebrew.

5.- Rothschild

Rothschild is the quintessential neighborhood for shopping and browse lots of little shops of local and vintage clothing. The Rothschild Boulevard and Shenkin Street have boutiques with a personality, best to go for the latest. Tuesdays and Fridays, Nahalat Binyamin Street becomes a showcase for the most innovative designers of clothing, jewelry, furniture and handicrafts. Most hedonists are in the right district, as the coolest nightclub in Tel Aviv, Radio EPGBE opens its doors in front of the boulevard. The purest underground atmosphere and live music make us enjoy the Israeli scene. You will listen to indie, rock, electronic and independent music in general. After a wild night, we can go to recover strength to Benedict, on the same boulevard, open 24 h and specialized in the most complete and tasty breakfasts that we can imagine.

5.- Neve Tzedek

The trendy district of Tel Aviv is precisely Neve Tzedek where tradition and modernity coexist. It is one of the most beautiful and was built in 1887 as the first Jewish neighborhood outside the walls of Jaffa. Get lost in its streets is essential in our journey to discover the white city’s history and evolution. We will be mesmerised by its amazing architecture that invite us to take pictures incessantly. Bohemian artists and modern people occupy the streets and proliferate their workshops and business in this area. The Monastery is a cocktail bar open 24 h, known for the variety of imported beers, situated at Allenby. Sausages are its specialty and there are all kinds. Good place to connect and converse with the locals and other tourists. Next to Neve Tzedek, the impressive market Hacarmel stands with stalls of exotic stuff and food to trade with their multicultural assistants.

Image:Boris Kuznetsov

By Blanca Frontera .

A place worth visiting! Check our prices here.

 

 

 

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Berlin in 9 Albums

From David Bowie or Iggy Pop, to U2 or R.E.M, Berlin has long been a source of inspiration for the most famed ambassadors of pop and rock (their impact on club culture deserves a separate article). With the iconic Hansa Tonstudio recording studios as the hub of experimentation and creation, the German capital stands out as the inextricable backdrop for beacons of musical genesis over the last few decades.

“Heroes” (David Bowie, 1977)

David Bowie took refuge in Berlin in search of inspiration in the late seventies. His German sojourn ended up spawning the Berlin Trilogy,a triptych of albums that began with Low (1977) and ended with Lodger (1978), although epitomised by the second album, Heroes.Recorded in the legendary Hansa Tonstudio (or Hansa Studio by the Wall), the title track recounts the story of two lovers who hide their idyll in the shadows of the Berlin Wall.

“Lust For Life” (Iggy Pop, 1977)

Following in the footsteps of his friend, David Bowie, Iggy Pop headed for Berlin to develop his career as a solo artist. The first chapter in that new venture was The Idiot (1977). A bigger hit still was Lust for Life, released that same year. With the Hansa Studio by the Wall again becoming his centre of operations, Iggy Pop took just eight days to breathe life into such essential titles in his repertory as Lust for Life, The Passenger and Tonight.

“Kollaps” (Einstürzende Neubauten, 1981)

Few albums has captured so well the essence of Berlin in the early eighties as Kollaps, Einstürzende Neubauten’s debut. A landmark industrial and experimental band, the calling card of this group led by Blixa Bargeld was a collection of pieces which even today, three decades on, still resound as searing, psychotic and oppressive – an exquisite torture on the ears.

“Night Time” (Killing Joke, 1985)

The quasi-metal, industrial band, Killing Joke, achieved one of their major hits with Night Time, a work suggestive of an interlude between their strident beginnings and the calmer stretches they would subsequently experiment with, albeit fruitlessly. And, while you’re at it – listen to Eighties, the last track on the album, and then do the same with Come as You Are, by Nirvana. Influence, coincidence or plagiarism?

“Black Celebration” (Depeche Mode, 1986)

Depeche Mode went to Berlin to record their fifth studio album, with Martin Gore then consolidating as the band’s creative engine. As the title suggests,Black Celebrationstresses the darkening sound passages that the Britons had been flirting with in their previous works, Construction Time Again (1983) and Some Great Reward (1984). Definitely one of the most influential records of the eighties.

“Your Funeral… My Trial” (Nick Cave And The Bad Seeds, 1986)

Nick Cave has stated on more than one occasion that Your Funeral… My Trial is the best album in their career. Indeed, his long fourth track harbours some of the most hair-raising cuts by the Australian, like its counterpart, Your Funeral, My Trial, Stranger Than Kindness or The Carny which Cave and The Bad Seeds would play a year later in the Wim Wenders film, Wings of Desire.

“Bossanova” (Pixies, 1990)

Engendered in Berlin, this third album of the Pixies is undoubtedly one of the great works of independent rock. The hideout of simply irresistible tracks like Velouria, Dig for Fire or Allison, their customary dedication to sure-fire tunes entangled with distorted guitar rasps,Bossanovareveals borrowings from surf and space rock. While not a conceptual work, many of the themes bear references to aliens, UFOs and the remaining extraterrestrial paraphernalia that so obsessed its leader, Black Francis.

“Achtung Baby” (U2, 1991)

Having scoured the roots of American music with Rattle and Hum (1988), U2’s next release marked a radical departure in sound. Having moved to Berlin to allow the winds of change blowing across the city to rub off on them, the Irishmen caught the world unawares with a work grounded in the essences of the burgeoning genres, including independent rock and electronic music. Achtung Baby is one of those definitive records in the history of rock.

“Collapse Into Now” (R.E.M., 2011)

R.E.M. was one of the most popular bands in the last few decades, with the added advantage that they managed to keep their integrity and artistic credibility intact. They split up in September 2011, a few months before the release of their last album, Collapse Into Now. Recorded in the Hansa Tonstudio, this is a standout farewell bordering on the sublime, as in Discover, Mine Smell Like Honey and Überlin.

Berlin Musictours offers an extensive, more than interesting gamut of tours to the hotspots of Berlin’s ever effervescent musical activity. Among the various itineraries to choose from, notable routes include the Bowie Berlin Tour, U2 Berlin Tour, Depeche Mode Berlin Tour and Hansa Studio Tour. Why wait to discover an à la carte musical Berlin? Check our flights here.

 

Text by Oriol Rodríguez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

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