Chaouen A Walk Through the Blue City
The city of Chaouen is located in the north-east of Morocco, some 60 kilometres from Tetouan. Its narrow streets and whitewashed houses, most of them in blue and white, are strangely reminiscent of the villages in the Alpujarra mountains of Granada. This comes as no surprise if you consider that centuries ago this area in the Rif mountains was settled by a large number of exiles from al-Andalus. Here, especially, what was originally a Berber settlement was transformed in 1471 into a town where Muslims and Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula by the Catholic Kings sought refuge. This accounts for the city’s unique ties to the Andalusian towns which they hailed from, where they derived the centuries-old customs they brought to this land.
One of the main reasons why a trip to this mountainous area is really worthwhile is that Chaouen (known variously as Chefchaouen, Chaouen or Xauen) appears to be frozen in time. It has hardly evolved at all over the centuries as it was considered a holy city. This is also why it was off limits to foreigners. Hence, when you first arrive and start wandering along its narrow streets, where it is rather difficult to get your bearings, you are suddenly gripped by the feeling of having stepped back into the Middle Ages. To compound this impression, in the Old Town the only way of getting around is on donkey back, which heightens the feeling of being a time traveller.
One of the major draws in Chaouen is the Medina or Old Town with its white-and-blue houses, a striking sight for visitors, who find them difficult to resist photographing. The main square, Place Outa el-Hammam, is the nerve centre of the Medina. It is the ideal spot for sipping a cup of tea while soaking up the atmosphere, or for tasting the local cuisine served in restaurants in the surrounding area. Also in the square stands the Kasbah, a fortress built in the 15th century, the interior of which can be visited, and the Great Mosque, its standout feature being its original, octagonal-shaped minaret. Near the square is the old caravanserai, where merchants used to stop over and sell their wares. Currently it hosts numerous local artisans who engage in their crafts and here you can pick up some picturesque homemade souvenirs.
Unlike in other Moroccan towns, in Chaouen it is easy to move around the old medina without being hassled by hawkers, which makes a visit even more pleasurable and relaxing. So, shopping enthusiasts, be sure to head for the souk, which runs from the archway marking the entrance to the medina as far as Outa el-Hammam Square. Get ready to go on a great shopping spree, with haggling included, of course.
A good panoramic view of the city can be had from Bab Onsar gate, in the north-east. Here you will also come across the fountain known as Ras el Maa, with a waterfall and a public washhouse which is still in use, as women come here every day to wash clothes by hand. A road leads from here to the Jemaa Bouzafar mosque, which is a 30-minute walk. The experience is well worth the effort.
Fire up and explore this jewel of northern Morocco situated 115 kilometres from Tangier – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by subherwal
more infoIbiza the Wellness Island
In our last post about Ibiza we went in search of the island’s culinary delights, coinciding with the #IbizaSabor2017 event, and found that it features a whole world of flavours waiting to be discovered. On this occasion we delve into its facilities for promoting well-being and present them in the form of places and activities for nurturing our body and mind to the full, turning our visit to Ibiza into a restorative experience. Fancy discovering this with us?
Take it Slow
By this stage everyone knows that yoga is highly beneficial to both body and mind. A few asanas to tone our body, a good set of stretching exercises and a decent spell of meditation give a boost to our everyday well-being. If on top of that we do it in a setting in the heart of nature, the experience can be absolutely arresting. This is what you’ll get at YogaRosa Retreats, the ideal place to pamper yourself on a yoga retreat in a dream environment where you will also come across Austrian chef Philip Gandler, who adds a touch of experience to the wholesome cuisine. Another place to get rid of stress through yoga is Ibiza Retreats, a painstakingly renovated property located just 5 to 10 minutes from Santa Eulàlia, Santa Gertrudis, San Lorenzo and the turquoise waters of Cala Nova beach, where they schedule nearly 30 retreats between late February and the end of October.
Discovering Rural Ibiza
You might be surprised to learn that there is life beyond Ibiza’s beaches and discos. Venturing inland reveals a host of beautiful rural areas where you can enjoy an alternative experience to the usual Ibizan sojourn. You could elect to stay in accommodation like Can Pardal, an exquisitely restored 16th-century Ibizan house in the north of the island set amid olive groves and fruit trees. Or else visit an organic farm, Can Obrador, located on the Camí des Pedrisset, on the main road between Ibiza and Santa Eulàlia, where you can learn the workings of environmentally-friendly farming systems, or see the Can Caus organic farm in operation up close.
My Life For a Spa!
Fast-paced modern living makes it well nigh impossible to pamper yourself so, why not use your getaway to Ibiza to treat yourself to a spa treatment in amenities where you will emerge feeling renewed? There are various hotels on the island which include a spa among their services, as at Migjorn Ibiza, featuring a spa where they apply geothermal, Thai, chocolate and essential oil techniques. Other venues include La Posidonia, with views of the Mediterranean from their spa which alone make the experience worthwhile, and the evocative spa at the Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza, where you will come out feeling like new.
“Mens sana in corpore sano”
Sports enthusiasts will find that Ibiza has myriad open-air spots, full of magic and charm, where they can engage in sporting activities. The beaches are one of the main draws, where you can dive in crystal-clear water, go on a kayak tour, have a whale of a time doing kite-surfing, sail around the coastline or while away the time doing paddle boarding. You can also sign up for a bicycle tour of the island, go rock climbing or simply enjoy the island’s natural beauty while hiking along its footpaths.
Book your Vueling to Ibiza and discover the wellness awaiting you there.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Discovering Lorcas Granada
Federico García Lorca, the poet, playwright and a member of the Generation of 27, was undoubtedly one of the leading figures of 20th-century Spanish literature with worldwide acclaim. He is the artificer of such magnificent works as Gypsy Ballads, Poet in New York, Blood Wedding, The House of Bernarda Alba and Yerma, among others. The biography of Federico García Lorca is closely linked to the city of Granada and to some villages in the surrounding Vega of Granada. Just as these lands left their mark on his work, so has Lorca’s influence lingered there over time. We now retrace the footprints of this magnanimous artist.
The Lorca route sets out from Fuente Vaqueros, a small town on the Vega de Granada where the poet was born. The house where he was born, located at 4 Calle García Lorca, which has been turned into a museum, provides visitors with an idea of his first steps in life.
Near Fuente Vaqueros lies the town of Valderrubio. Apart from being the first place to grow Virginia tobacco brought from the Americas, it was here that Lorca spent his holidays during his infancy. Prominent places of interest include the house of Bernarda Alba, on the Calle de la Iglesia, which was next door to García Lorca’s family home. As you may have gathered, it was the source of inspiration for one of his most widely acclaimed stage plays, The House of Bernarda Alba, with its mordant portrayal of life in the Spanish heartland. The old family abode has been turned into a House Museum, with some of the poet’s personal belongings on display.
In 1909, the Lorca family moved to Granada, where our route continues. His first home in this city was at 50 Calle Acera del Darro and the second, at 31 Acera del Casino. In 1914 he started a degree in Law and Arts at Granada University. During that period, he began to frequent what was one of the most celebrated meeting places of young intellectuals, the Café Alameda, which is now the Restaurante Chikito. That what where the conversational circle known as “El Rinconcillo” used to meet. The group was made up of artists of different disciplines whose common aim it was to promote cultural renewal in the city. The Centro Artístico y Literario de Granada (CALC) and El Polinario – also a famous flamenco tablao– were other spots frequented by Lorca.
An upshot of these gatherings was that Lorca struck up a friendship with Manuel de Falla, also a member of “El Rinconcillo”. Together they organised the first Cante Jondo de Granada contest – also a first in the whole of Spain – which was held in the Plaza de los Aljibes at the Alhambra.
The second-last stopover on our itinerary, just two kilometres from Granada, is the town of Huerta de San Vicente, the family’s summer residence from 1926 to 1936. Set in a beautiful park, it became a retreat for Lorca and it was there that he was able to relax, and draw inspiration to write. It was also the place where he spent the last few days of his life. The home has now been turned into the Federico García Lorca House-Museum, with furniture, personal objects and photographs of Lorca on display.
When the Spanish Civil War broke out in the summer of 1936, Lorca was forced to seek refuge in the family home of the poet, Luis Rosales, although this did not prevent him from being arrested on 16 August 1936. Our final stop on this itinerary through Lorca’s haunts in Granada is an olive grove located between Vízcar and Alfacar, where Federico García Lorca was executed by firing squad in the morning of 18 August. This subsequently became a park named after the poet. In it stands a monolith in memory of the victims of the Francoist repression during the Civil War.
Good reason to book your Vueling to Granada and follow the Lorca trail through Granada.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Alfons Hoogervorst, John Levin
more infoGreeting the Spring with Prosecco
Prosecco is one of the most popular beverages in the Veneto region, where any excuse is good to uncork a bottle, taste it and toast with it. This wonderful sparkling white wine, which tends to range from dry to extra dry, is produced mainly in the province of Treviso, very near one of the region’s most touristic cities – Venice.
This kind of wine is made from the Glera grape variety, formerly known as Prosecco, hence the name. The largest and best known producers of Prosecco are the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, situated in the north of Treviso province.
Being white and sparkling, it often tends to be compared to champagne, for which it is used as a substitute in Italy. However, there are many differences between them. Champagne ferments in the bottle and can last a long time, while Prosecco should be drunk as soon as possible and preferably within two years. For those of you who like cocktails, the name Prosecco must surely ring a bell, as it is the main ingredient in a cocktail prepared with peach called Bellini which, incidentally, first saw the light in Venice.
The Prosecco Spring
For the last 21 years this fantastic sparkling wine has been celebrated in the province of Treviso in what is known as the Primavera del Prosecco (Prosecco Spring). This year the event will be extended until 12 June and is scheduled to be packed with activities, including visits to wine cellars, wine tasting sessions, contests involving dishes made with Prosecco, photo competitions and cultural tours of the province. The programme also features sporting events, notably cycling routes through the area and walks among the vineyards.
One of the major spin-off advantages of visiting Treviso for this long celebration is that the landscape will be carpeted in all its finery at the time, with the countryside taking on deep green hues and temperatures rising to pleasant levels – the perfect time for enjoying nature. The best views are to be had from Monte Grappa, well known for the battles that were fought there during both World Wars. It is also very popular among mountain bikers. Another lofty vantage point for soaking up the scenery is Monte Cesen. Hikers who enjoy wandering through forests should head for the Cansiglio, Italy’s second largest forest where red deer roam through their ideal habitat of beech and fir trees.
The area is also well suited to enthusiasts of agritourism, with a large number of dedicated facilities available. One such facility is La Dolza, located in the village of Follina, where visitors can immerse themselves in the old farming traditions of the area. Another is Le Noci, an old farmhouse where you can get back to nature and taste the local cuisine.
And, since you’re in Italy, local cuisine is of course one of the standout features in the area, with a large number of restaurants to choose from. We highly recommend Locanda Sandi, a restaurant associated with the Villa Sandi wine cellar and set in magical surroundings, and Ristorante Tipico Conegliano Per Di Perenzin, located in San Pietro di Feletto, where the speciality is cheeses.
Take your Vueling to Venice, tour this beautiful region and treat yourself to its stellar wine – Prosecco!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Primavera del Prosecco
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