Ecotourism in the Raw Along the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica
Today we recommend one of the most charming routes in Spain. We hiked along it and were captivated. Want to know why? I’m referring to the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica, a wilderness trail, steeped in nature, which runs for just over six hundred kilometres, mostly through Asturias, traversing the Cordillera Cantábrica (Cantabrian Mountain Range) from east to west. We started out at the easternmost point, in the municipality of Peñamellera Baja, near the border of Cantabria. The trail ends in the municipality of Santa Eulalia de Oscos, hard by the Autonomous Community of Galicia. It was a magical trip, a getaway in communion with nature in which we totally switched off from the daily rat race.
The Camino Natural is divided into twenty-seven stages. However, depending on your level of fitness, and the time you have available, some stages can be grouped together in order to complete the route in fewer days. The good thing about this trail is that it never becomes monotonous. You are accompanied by beautiful panoramic views throughout, with a rich diversity of fauna and flora. We were treated to some of the finest examples of scenic splendour Asturias has to offer.
Another inducement on this route is the host of protected nature reserves you encounter on the trail: the Picos de Europa National Park, Nature Reserve Network, Protected Area of the Cuencas Mineras (Mining Basins), Ubiñas-La Mesa Nature Reserve, near the Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias Nature Park, in addition to the Oscos-Eo Biosphere Reserve and the natural enclaves of Sierra del Cuera, Pico Caldoveiro and Sierras de Carondio y Valledor. Can’t do much better than that, can you?
However, nature is not the only great provider here. There is also the rich heritage of the human imprint. On this route you will come across countless reminders of the local historic and cultural legacy, often in the form of such traditional architecture as the hórreos (granaries raised on pillars), country manors or casonas, hermitages, churches, towers and stately homes. The trail also includes sections designated “historical roads”, notably the Roman Road of La Carisa, the Camín Real de La Mesa and the junction between the pilgrimage routes known as the French Road and the original Road to Santiago, not to mention the presence of Celtic, Roman and medieval archaeological sites.
The Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica is made up of the following stages:
1. Panes to Alles – 17.85 km; 5.00 hrs.
2. Alles to Carreña – 15.98 km; 4.30 hrs.
3. Carreña to Benia de Onís – 19.02 km; 5.00 hrs.
4. Benia de Onís to Cangas de Onís – 23.58 km; 4.30 hrs.
5. Cangas de Onís to Villamayor – 22.98 km; 7.30 hrs.
6. Villamayor to Espinaredo – 13.40 km; 4.30 hrs.
7. Espinaredo to Fresnedal – 9.26 km; 3.00 hrs.
8. Fresnedal to Los Melendreros – 15.93 km; 5.30 hrs.
9. Los Melendreros to Entralgo – 13.37 km; 4.30 hrs.
10. Entralgo to Bello – 18.51 km; 6.00 hrs.
11. Bello to Santibáñez – 32.54 km; 6.00 hrs.
12. Santibáñez to Campomanes – 26.09 km; 8.30 hrs.
13. Campomanes to Llanuces – 25.96 km; 8.30 hrs.
14. Llanuces to Bárzana – 20.17 km; 5.00 hrs.
15. Bárzana to Villanueva – 18.14 km; 5.00 hrs.
16. Villanueva to Villamayor – 43.67 km; 9.00 hrs.
17. Villamayor to Dolia – 22.65 km; 8.00 hrs.
18. Dolia to Belmonte – 13.99 km; 4.30 hrs.
19. Belmonte to Boinás – 17.25 km; 5.00 hrs.
20. Boinás to Tuña – 24.62 km; 4.00 hrs.
21. Tuña to Onón – 16.68 km; 4.00 hrs.
22. Onón to Corias – 23.77 km; 7.00 hrs.
23. Corias to Besullo – 20.02 km; 6.30 hrs.
24. Besullo to Berducedo – 42.21 km; 7.00 hrs.
25. Berducedo to Grandas – 45.71 km; 6.00 hrs.
26. Grandas to Castro – 13.25 km; 3.00 hrs.
27. Castro to Santa Eulalia de Oscos – 29.43 km; 6.00 hrs.
Top-notch Ecotourism in the North of the Iberian Peninsula
On this trip we discovered that ecotourism is an option which is fast catching on in Spain. Broadly speaking, it is a form of nature trailing which involves respecting the natural environment and promoting sustainability, as well as contributing directly and effectively to developing the area. Resource conservation with a view to safeguarding local fauna and flora is ever-present. Well, then, what better than to put into practice this tourist trend on the ascent by venturing along the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica? Sightings of unique species, priceless scenery and unforgettable experiences are guaranteed in this nature paradise located in the north of the Iberian Peninsula. Now, you wouldn’t want to miss it, would you?
Text by José García
Images by Turismo de Asturias
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Reykjavik A Great Small City I
This, the first part of the post focuses on the rich music scene in the Icelandic capital. As we shall see, it is an enchanting, visitor-friendly city, full of contrasts.
To some extent, if you’ve only seen Reykjavik, you haven’t really seen Iceland. What you have seen, though, is its openness to the world, its warmer, more friendly side, making you feel comfortable despite being thousands of kilometres from home. For, once you leave the welcoming streets in Reykjavik’s city centre, the distances between built-up areas grow exponentially, with population centres distributed like in the United States. Reykjavik itself is the largest city on the island, with a population of 130,000 inhabitants – 215,000 if you include its surrounding areas. Once you leave the limits of Reykjavik, nature rules, but that is another story we will deal with some other time.
While the freezing winter temperatures preclude the sort of sightseeing we Mediterraneans are fond of, a visit to Reykjavik in spring, summer and early autumn can be a fantastic experience. In early October, temperatures in the city are still bearable for Spanish tourists, ranging from a minimum of two degrees to a maximum of ten. Well, that’s cold, but not untowardly so. With that in mind, and given the scarce sunlight hours, you will feel like walking up and down the street and peeking into the shop windows ranged one after the other in the city centre. Craft stores, fashion stores and boutiques with a huge variety of apparel. Those selling jerseys with colourful, handmade patterns come highly recommended. Then there are the restaurants, musical bars, art galleries and even record shops, making downtown Reykjavik a large business emporium, although worlds apart from the crowding of the large European city centres. Here, everything is carefully thought out, but endearingly so – shops all have their own personality and service is warm and friendly. You won’t be overwhelmed by ghetto-blasting piped music, endless queues or intrusive, frenzied marketing campaigns.
When you’re ready to grab a bite, your options range from strong-tasting local fare to Italian-style pizzas, like those served up at Primo Ristorante, while appetising Nordic- and Slavic-style soups are also much in vogue – be sure to visit Svarta Kaffi, at Laugavegur 54, where the soup is served in bread. Also worth trying are the hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Tryggvagata 1), a street stall where, according to George Clinton, they make the best hot dogs in the world. And, don’t worry about the service. Apart from the fact that you can come across people of various nationalities – among them, quite a few Spaniards – Icelanders are friendly yet discreet people. And, don’t be surprised if the waiters or waitresses seem very young by Spanish standards. While work may be considered ennobling, in Iceland they appear to have learned this earlier than in other European countries.
For those who don’t fancy walking about, Reykjavik has several bus lines covering the city centre and surrounding areas.
A trip to Iceland could start in the streets of Reykjavik and then strike out necessarily across the island, one of the most beautiful in the world for those seeking tranquility, a magical atmosphere and nature in the raw. In the city, buildings are painted in various colours, so you can come across one with blue walls adjoining another in stately white, tainted by the passage of time. In the wild, the white of snow and ice, the bright green of the vegetation, volcanic greys and browns and the one thousand and one hues of freely flowing waters combine to create a colour palette which underscores the majesty of this land’s natural surroundings, which Icelanders have long protected, a sentiment deep-seated in their hearts.
While your first port of call may be the city, you should also consider taking the chance to venture out into Iceland’s wild, free interior. To go no further, Reykjavik harbour provides numerous options of three- to five-hour boat rides to go whale-spotting. The idea is to observe various types of whales swimming freely in the cold Arctic waters; whales of different sizes, as well as an amazing variety of dolphins. But, don’t get your hopes up too fast – the animals aren’t just out there waiting for you to come along. It’s up to the gods of the sea whether you will be lucky enough to spot them, or whether your trip will be successful. Indeed, you are more likely to get the desired results by going on an outing to the areas where those “little Atlantic friars” the puffins live and nest. Some eight to ten million puffins are believed to inhabit the territory.
But, there is a lot more to do in a city like Reykjavik. From there you can watch the fantastic northern lights and, if you are lucky, you will coincide with one of the few occasions when the city lights are switched off to enhance everyone’s viewing experience of this natural wonder. You could also visit Hallgrímskirkja Church – with grey tones on the outside, and striking forms and interior spaces – or have a dip in the warm waters of any number of thermal baths, both in the city and outside it.
Our next post will focus on one of the most prolific and interesting music scenes on the planet. Fire up and discover the world’s northernmost capital – check out our flights here.
Text by Joan S. Luna (Mondo Sonoro)
Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoRomantic Settings the Scent of Vineyards and Alpine Charm in Germany
Fantastic medieval castles, beautiful scenery, enchanting villages, splendid vineyards, tasty cuisine and a touch of romanticism – what more could you want in a getaway? Well, all that and more awaits you on one of the most popular itineraries in Germany, known as the Romantic Road (Romantische Straße, in German).
The route starts at Würzburg, which lies about 110 kilometres south-east of Frankfurt, and ends in Füssen, 82 kilometres south-west of Munich. Between those two points, you will come across over 60 towns and villages steeped in culture, as well as stunning scenery. In all, an itinerary covering some 400 kilometres to savour what was once an important trade route in the Middle Ages and, since 1950, one of the leading tourist magnets in Germany.
The Main Sightseeing Spots
As there is a lot to see on that long trip, we have made a selection of the places we consider the standout spots to stop at.
Würzburg. Situated in the heart of Franconia’s grape-growing region, this town is famous as the home of a veritable jewel of Baroque architecture – the Würzburg Residence, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber. One of the best preserved medieval towns in the country and one of the major attractions on the Romantic Road, so be sure to make a stopover to visit it. We recommend strolling along the medieval wall to soak up the panoramic views it affords of the city and its surrounding area.
Dinkelsbühl. Another of the gems you will encounter along the Road is this picturesque town, which managed to avoid destruction in both the Thirty Years’ War and the Second World War. It is thus well preserved and the essence of its medieval past intact. A striking feature that meets eye when walking through the town is its numerous towers, numbering sixteen in all.
Nördlingen. While less frequented than the previous ones, much of the historical charm of this beautiful medieval town in Bavaria has been preserved. Curiously, the town was built over a crater caused by the impact of a meteorite that fell to earth over 15 million years ago. It covers an area measuring 25 kilometres in diameter.
Augsburg. The largest city along the route and one of the oldest in Germany. It was founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago. Having enjoyed independence for a period of its history, the city flourished and generated considerable wealth, becoming one of the most prosperous in Europe. A prominent city landmark is the Rathausplatz, a large pedestrian square in the very heart of the Altstadt, while other noteworthy sights include Renaissance and Baroque buildings.
Wies Pilgrimage Church. Located in Steingaden, this is a must-see spot for art lovers, as the architectural style of the building is among the most noteworthy in the Bavarian Rococo.
Neuschwanstein Castle. Wrapping up our list of recommendations is this stunning piece of architecture which was actually the model for the castle design in Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. No wonder, then, that Neuschwanstein means “new swan stone”. Overlooking the Pöllat Gorge in the Bavarian Alps, its construction was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria – the “Mad King” – in 1866.
Some Pointers
The best way to get around along the Romantic Route is by car, as it gives you greater autonomy when moving from one town to the next. You can pick up a hire car at Frankfurt airport. The route is signposted, so you just have to follow the indications to find your way. Those who prefer an alternative means of transport can take the coach, for which tickets can be booked in advance for specific legs of the journey. The more intrepid among you can also enjoy the pleasure of cycling through the bucolic landscapes as, on the whole, the route does not present any steep slopes.
Since this is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, we recommend that, if possible, you schedule your trip for the spring or autumn, as in summer it is far more crowded.
Now that you’re up to speed with the ins and outs of this fantastic route, it’s time to plan your own itinerary. Check out flights to Frankfurt here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by vince42, Tilo 2007, Rictor Norton & David Allen, ilovebutter, Holger Baschleben, Allie_Caulfield, Brian Wiese
more infoTen Must-Sees in Jerusalem
Realising that you are walking in one of the oldest cities on earth is awe-inspiring. Here are ten pointers to understanding and enjoying this fascinating yet complex city, bearing in mind that biblical, epic and historical landmarks are a constant in this metropolis, where religion has pulsated since time immemorial.
1. To get a feel for the size and layout of Jerusalem, we shall start our tour on the Mount of Olives, affording one of the best panoramic views of the city – the old city, the new city, the walls, tombs… thousands of years of history at a simple glance.
2. On the way down, stop off at Gethsemane and stroll through the groves of millennial olive trees. Then, visit the Church of All Nations, built on the rock where Jesus prayed before being arrested.
3. To come to grips with Jerusalem, it is essential to understand it is “thrice-holy”; that is, sacred to the three great monotheistic religions. Judaism, Christianity and Islam have part of their roots in these backstreets. The Wailing Wall, the Al-Aqsa mosque and the Holy Sepulchre are three landmarks you should not fail to visit, whatever your beliefs. Let’s start with the Wailing Wall or Western Wall, the only remaining vestige of Jerusalem’s Second Temple, the holiest of Jewish places, which was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. You have to pass through several security checks on the way in. Once inside, men on one side and women on the other. Men must also cover their heads with a Jewish kippah or skullcap.
You are met by a unique, striking setting – hundreds of people facing the wall and rocking to and fro as they pray. If you look up, you see the Esplanade of the Mosques, another privileged vantage point with Jerusalem at your feet. Here, the two striking landmarks are the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, the latter built on the spot where it is believed that Muhammad rose into paradise. Its crowning gold dome has become a veritable symbol. The esplanade is also a reference point for both Jews and Christians as it was here that Abraham was about to sacrifice his son, Isaac. For Christians the holiest place is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Built on Mount Golgotha (Calvary), this is the spot where Jesus died on the Cross. It is also the site of his sepulchre or burial place, where he was resurrected on the third day. Also preserved is the Stone of Anointing, where Christ’s lifeless body rested. Many landmarks and endless queues; you need to be patient.
4. But, not everything is religion. Jerusalem also features examples of the avant-garde and some upmarket shopping precincts. If you walk along Mamilla Mall, judging by the brands on display there, you could easily be in London or Paris. Access to the mall is via the Jaffa Gate – have your visa ready!
5. The Mamilla is also Jerusalem’s first designer hotel, and a sanctuary for sybarites who relish sleeping against the backdrop of the old city walls and David’s Tower. Mamilla Hotel is a blend of the eternal and the avant-garde – millennial stone walls and metal headboards and, as a plus, a miraculous spa and a gourmet restaurant with privileged views.
6. Those with classical taste will perhaps prefer the King David, the epitome of a grand hotel. Once the headquarters of the British Mandate, the hotel now excels as a luxury establishment which has seen such illustrious overnighters as King Felipe and Queen Letizia, the Prince of Wales, Barack Obama, Nicolas Sarkozy and Margaret Thatcher and, from the world of celebrity fame, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Richard Gere and Madonna. The sober exterior of the hotel contrasts with the elegant, modern interior and the comfortable rooms. Prices are in keeping with the standing of its prestigious customers.
7. We head back to the old city to tour the Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian quarters. In all these precincts the shops are well-stocked – food, a variety of souvenirs, perfumes, confectionery, religious objects, T-shirts and antiquities worth thousands of euros, including Roman coins, vessels from Christ’s time… If you can’t afford them, that shouldn’t put you off soaking up the charm of these alleyways and their people from all religions, races and cultures. Jerusalem’s old city is a melting pot thronging with Orthodox and non-Orthodox Jews, Arabs, Christians, Westerners, Asians… Where bells chime and muezzins call to prayer.
8. A colourful and more affordable alternative is the local Mahane Yehuda market but, be warned – don’t go there on Shabbat (the Sabbath) as it is the Jewish holy day. The city comes to a standstill at sunset on Friday until sunset on Saturday, an important detail to remember when planning your trip.
9. Before leaving Jerusalem, make sure you visit at least two of its museums. Yad Vashem is the Holocaust memorial, a world centre of documentation, research, education and commemoration, while the Israel Museum is where the Dead Sea Scrolls are on display, the oldest biblical manuscript in the world, as is an amazing mock-up of historical Jerusalem, which will help you understand the city.
10. To round off your trip, make your farewell from Mount Scopus where, in addition to viewing the skyline of the old city, you will also see the waters of the Dead Sea, another of those places worth visiting at least once in a lifetime.
What more could you ask for? Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Nani Arenas
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