Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.

I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.

More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic

In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.

But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:

Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.

Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.

Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.

Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.

If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.

As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.

San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón – the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon – and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing – in September.
Cross de las tres playas – in October.

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro

John Waters shot to fame by directing outlandish, low-budget movies such as Pink Flamingos (1972) which glorify violence, sexual perversion and bad taste. He uses provocation as a weapon targeting the good-mannered hypocrisy, iron-fisted morals and religious values of the American way of life. However, few realise that the American dandy with a pencil moustache has also designed large-format collages and photomontages. He has chosen 40 of these pieces – including storyboards from his movies – for the exhibition, How Much Can You Take?, which runs until 1 November at the acclaimed Kunsthaus Zürich, coinciding with the murals by Joan Miró on display there until the end of January.

Paradoxically, the multifaceted filmmaker has other traits in common with Zürich, such as class, a sense of order and extreme cleanliness. Deep down, Waters also has a tenderness and fetishism that suggests he would delight in the bric-a-brac on sale in downtown Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, offering the music boxes, Swiss army knives, cowbells and cuckoo clocks so typical of Switzerland’s bucolic image. That same cliché embodied by Heidi, the children’s character created by the writer, Johanna Spyri who, like the poet, Gottfried Keller, is buried in the leafy park of Sihlfeld Cemetery, the first in Europe to incorporate a crematory. Waters would surely relish a visit there, both for his fascination for the macabre and his professed love of literature, which of late he is more engaged in than cinema. Hence, we might also recommend he visit Fluntern Cemetery, site of the beautiful tomb of James Joyce, who in Zürich gave himself over to a licentious alcoholism while writing much of Ulysses, a diatribe against Church and State. Another writer who also passed away in this city was the German author of The Magic Mountain, immortalised in the Thomas Mann Archives, a small museum housed in the ETH Zürich. This State university has also been graced by no fewer than twenty Nobel prizewinners, notably the scientist Albert Einstein, as much a rebel against conventional mores as Waters. Located in the same university is the spectacular Law Faculty Library, designed by the architect, Santiago Calatrava. However, the maker of morbid films would probably prefer to read in the old abbey housing the Zentralbibliothek Zürich, the city’s main library.

The filmmaker’s more iconoclastic side would relish the recollection that Zürich was the cradle of Dadaism, the anarchic “anti-art” so critical of middle-class society in World War I. That was when the artistic couple, Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball, founded the celebrated Cabaret Voltaire in Niederdorf’s Old Town. Together with Tristan Tzara, the locale broke with all established canons. The building gradually became derelict until it was occupied in 2001 by a group of artivists and used to stage neo-Dadaist-style performances before vast crowds of Zurichers. After their eviction, the City Council overturned its original plan to demolish the building, which was then refurbished as an alternative cultural centre. Also located in the Old Town is the unusual Musée Visionnaire, where visitors choose what they want to see – and are encouraged to critique it – from a catalogue of Art Brut, a movement also known as Outsider Art – the work of amateurs, the mentally disabled and any creator alien to institutions and the boundaries set by official culture. In short, characters who would not be out of place among the Dreamlanders, counter-culture misfits and such regular collaborators of Waters as Mink Stole or Divine.

The young Waters who was so enthralled by gruesome accidents and bloodthirsty tales would also take a fancy to the Moulangenmuseum, a museum featuring wax representations of body parts twisted by disfiguring diseases, including exhibits in the University Hospital’s medical teaching collection dating from 1917. And, lured by the repulsive, he might also look up the dark oeuvre, biomechanical aesthetic and highly charged erotic sense of another illustrious native of Zürich who designed the visual effects for the movie, Alien – the recently deceased H.R. Giger. Although fans of the illustrator and sculptor have to choose between a visit to his comprehensive museum in the walled town of Gruyères (nearly two hours south of Zürich), and the stunning Giger Bar in his native Chur (about an hour’s drive from Zürich), situated, strangely enough, in the same land that inspired the pastoral Heidi.

To wind up this walk on the dark side, nothing better than supper at Blindekuh Zurich, the world’s first restaurant where diners eat in the pitch black. Fortunately, Waters is not the chef, so you needn’t worry about being served what Divine ate in Pink Flamingos. I assume you get my drift but, just to make sure, before you take the plunge you should go to a quality chocolaterie like Sprüngli.

In any event, remember that the Waters exhibition only lasts for a few more weeks, so get your tickets here!

Text by Carlos G. Vela para ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by David Shankbone, Roland zh, Juerg Peter Hug, Absinthe, Edsel Little

Just when we land, Tenerife welcomes us with an air of mystery and legend. Its volcanic landscape and its uncertain origins, which some authors place in Atlantis are just two of its many attractions.

And, legends aside, what is clear is that more than a lucky island, Tenerife is a piece of paradise on earth. It has two World Heritage Sites, a National Park, 42 protected areas and its weather makes it the island of eternal spring.

Whether you are visiting the island with friends, with family or with children, Tenerife is one of those destinations where you want to come back.

National Park Cañadas del Teide and Puerto de la Cruz

One of the must visit of Tenerife is the Teide National Park. Its breathtaking volcanic landscapes achieved that, in 2007 Tenerife were included as Well Natural in the World Heritage List of UNESCO. It is possible to visit the park with different excursions including the popular camel rise.

The caldera and volcano Teide - Pico Viejo are some of the world's most spectacular geological monuments. It also has a variety of volcanic cones and domes, lava flows, tors and caves that form a range of colors and shapes.

From there you can descend through spectacular Orotava Valley to the north coast, where is located the village of Puerto de la Cruz. This small town has many tourist attractions such as Loro Park, the Botanical Gardens, Lake Martiánez pool complex, beach Garden and Plaza del Charco.

San Cristobal de la Laguna

The historic center of La Laguna form was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and it is a joy to walk through its streets.

Worth a stop on the way the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, Neo-Gothic and houses an interesting and rich artistic heritage. A short walk in its streets, we find among other facades of stately homes in Plaza de la Concepción, in front of the church of the same name. Turning left from the Place de la Concepcion reaches Herradores street, completely pedestrian, other interesting examples of Canarian architecture. But if the rotation is clockwise, the tour ends in San Agustin Street, in the houses of the Jesuits, Montañéz and Salazar. Lercaro Palace, the Museum of History of Tenerife, is another milestone in the street of St. Augustine and the church and hospital of Our Lady of Sorrows, St. Augustine's Church and the Institute of the Canary Islands.

A little further away is the beautiful Royal Shrine of the Holy Christ, next to the Plaza de San Francisco, better known as the Christ.

Hiking and nature trails

Masca

Masca is a picturesque village situated on the northwest tip of the island in the Teno Massif within the rural park of the same name. In Masca can find stunning scenery with deep ravines and cliffs ending in the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by greenery and roads with impossible curves. Reputed to have been a haven for pirates.

Cruz del Carmen

If what you like is walking, one of the oldest trails on the island is what leads us to the Cross of Carmen.This promenade runs for environment typical vegetation, wax myrtle, heather and some species typical of the laurel, and reaches the Llano de Los Loros, from where you can enjoy panoramic views of the north coast wide.

Whales and dolphins watching

The southwest coast of Tenerife is a privileged place for whale watching in the wild, since there are whales and dolphin colonies living here all year. His presence is so near the coast, which has turned Tenerife in the first place in Europe in importance by the number of people doing whale watching in freedom.

We can find up to 21 different species in these waters, from the blue whale to the fearsome giant orca. There are two resident populations, finned pilot whale and bottlenose dolphin, which can be seen almost 80% of the days of the year, with a rate close to 100% sighting.

And of course, the beaches!

On an island as privileged as Tenerife, we must visit its incredible beaches, whether you like volcanic sand as soft golden sand.

For lovers of tranquility we propose Bollullo beach, in the town of La Orotava. It is a beautiful and secluded beach of volcanic sand which had the extraordinary clean waters and relaxed atmosphere. It's a little crowded beach, ideal for those who want to escape the crowded tourist venues and enjoy some quiet time. Access to this beach is on foot by a stepped path surrounded by banana trees. Pay attention to swim in this beach, because it lacks containment boom wave.

And for those who prefer to enjoy all the tourist amenities, our recommendation goes to the beach nightgown and Duque Beach.

The nightdress is part of a continuous succession of beaches which are occasionally separated by a line of stones on sand. The swimming conditions are always optimal as a breakwater protects the currents and waves.

El Duque is a beach of fine golden sand beach located in the southern part of the island, surrounded by a lovely seafront promenade that connects more than 8 beaches. In calm waters, and an extension of nearly 700 meters, the Playa del Duque delights its visitors, for they have all the services of an environment where quality is more distinctive.

You can also enjoy other spectacular beaches like El Medano, El Socorro, The Arena, La Pinta, La Tejita, Teresitas or Las Vistas.

By Nadia Polo

Picture Las Teresitas by Sergio Martín González | Picture San Cristóbal de la Laguna by Jens Steckert | Picture Acantilado de los Gigantes by Daniel Gaínza

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.