Christmas in A Coruña
Christmas means decoration, gifts, ornaments, rituals, celebrations and much more. But, it is also a season when we probably have some extra leisure time. If you use it this year to visit A Coruña, you can get involved in a number of activities scheduled up to the moment the Three Wise Men arrive. Here, then, are our Christmas tips, and an introduction to two restaurants with Michelin stars not far from the city.
Atlantic Christmas
The María Pita Christmas Village opens to the public in early December and offers children’s activities, magic, games, music and gifts. Toddlers and infants will have a whale of a time here with the plethora of activities tailored to their needs. Children, the main focus of Christmas cheer, will be treated to a new edition of Nadaliño, a show featuring games and educational activities hosted in Palexco.
The A Coruña Science Museums have also scheduled a special programme for the season which entails learning while having fun. As ever, the festivities come to a close with the Grand Cavalcade of the Kings (Three Wise Men), a parade through the city’s streets, full of surprises, on the magical night of 5 January.
But, not everything has been devised for children. We adults can also enjoy these festivities. So, if you’re coming to A Coruña, be aware that there are numerous concerts on offer, as well as the premiere of several musicals and an Afro-American Gospel Music Festival.
Lastly, in the afternoon of the 31st, the customary San Silvestre Coruñesa race starts in the Plaza de María Pita and finishes at the Obelisco, for those who want to see the old year out in good shape and shed some of the calories acquired during the long holiday week.
Gastro-Visit
While you’re here, we recommend a getaway to two restaurants in the area with a Michelin star:
As Garzas
O Porto de Barizo, Barizo, 15113 Malpica de Bergantiños, A Coruña
Chef: Fernando Agrasar
Located in the heart of the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), opposite the Sisargas islands, the restaurant is housed in the hotel of the same name, a building with large windows that seem to lean out over the cliff edge. The dining-room is a relaxing, modern space with a formidable fireplace and just eleven tables set around it. The cuisine at As Garzas bears a sea flavour – that of the Atlantic in pristine state. Their chef, Fernando Agrasar, asserts that the cuisine is not avant-garde but creative. Sans impositions or any pointless elaborateness.
Key to the menu is the Galician fish and seafood, crafted into veritable pleasure bites. While liable to seasonal variation, grouper and sea bass always take pride of place. The rices, too, especially their lobster rice. Apart from an impressive seasonal menu, As Garzas also offers a carefully curated menu for “those reluctant to make a choice”. There are 12 to 14 dishes in all (bearing in mind that two of them are desserts), which vary in terms of the season and market, with innovation as the restaurant’s hallmark.
Retiro da Costiña
Av. de Santiago, 12. 15840 Santa Comba, A Coruña
Chef: Manuel Costiña
Set in a stately manor halfway between Santiago de Compostela and the Costa da Morte, each area in the Retiro is meticulously designed for enjoying each occasion. For appetizers, a wine cellar with a star-studded ceiling, while lunch and dinner are hosted in a spacious, stone-walled dining-room. And, for after-dinner, an elegant salon with a fireplace.
Retiro offers market cuisine with the most appetising dishes in season. No kidding – Galicia rules! So, it requires no effort to find such marvels as razor clams from Fisterra, grouper from Aguiño, hake from O Celeiro or oysters from O Freixo. Aside from the delicious menu, Manuel offers two tasting menus, one of which is carefully paired by the sommelier. And, there’s more – the wine cellar! In addition to a striking wine list, they have another featuring liqueurs, each with over 800 items. Enological gems such as 40- or 50-year-old Macallan whisky.
There you have it – what’s in store for you if you visit A Coruña over Christmas. Check out our flights here.
Text by Turismo de A Coruña
Images by Turismo de A Coruña, Retiro, As Garzas
more info
Brisk Encounter With Berlin Techno Part 2
Picking up from our activities in the previous chapter, today we continue with our monographic tour of Berlin techno. This, then, will be our second night in the city. For this purpose there is a variety of venues. In a radius of less than 200 metres there are two of the standout spots, both on the Kreuzberg intersection. Access to the first of these, Monarch, is up a staircase which doesn’t seem to lead to anywhere safe. But, after negotiating a metal door concealed on one side of the street – bingo! The venue has a fixed programme and special events, such as the XJAZZ Festival. Another of the mythical spots is La Paloma – you could pass by the door twenty times and you’d never suspect that there was any action there… and on this occasion there wasn’t. 9 p.m. is too early for this locale. We didn’t even try going to Farbfernseher as we wanted to really hit the big time!
“The best techno is still at underground rave-ups, where it’s not easy to get a look in”, remarked Ana, a designer from Madrid who lives in Berlin. With that auspicious comment we head into the Berlin night, to more exciting spots than the ones touted… Before that, we make a slip-up.
“Tresor has become the Pachá of Berlin”, wages Carlota, a Catalan who has been living in the German capital for some years. Tresor is not the best of places in Berlin – it is no longer on its original premises either – but it is an affordable piece of history. The tunnel leading down into the basement hall with its strobe lights and tedious hard techno is unlike anything else in Europe. Whatever is being played, thanks to its crew it sounds marvellous. As well, the premises are clean and they even offer deodorant and shampoo to customers who prolong their stay through the night.
After a couple of hours we realise that there aren’t any real Berliners around. You can hear more Spanish and English being spoken in the corridors than German. You also encounter a host of guiris in such places as Suicide Circus, Cassiopeia, Kit Kat and Weekend. The venues actually exploit the fact that some legendary clubs have closed down precisely because of the pressure exerted by foreigners and a process of gentrification – Kater Holzig, Golden Gateor Icon, for example. We decide to head for another iconic spot, this time with its pedigree intact – Berghain, in Rudersdorf.
The sandy forecourt leading to the earthy-coloured building rising several storeys high is imposing. Not for its size but because it smells of fear from a long way off. The stats confirm that no for an answer is the prevailing response at the door. Five pro bouncers are tasked with controlling not so the outbreak of scuffles as customer dress code (spotless black, although a couple dressed in green latex was allowed in) and the deportment of the cautious queuers (no talking in the queue, no group entry, no boy-girl couples). Martí, a Barceloner who went to Berlin on an Erasmus, has never been able to get in. Needless to say, neither were we. It’s 4 in the morning.
“Have you got an invitation?” asks a sturdy bouncer in English. We haven’t yet opened our mouths, but he already knows we are certainly not Teutons.
“No”, we reply in our half-German. The bouncer moves his head to one side, motioning towards an exit. Our visit to Berghain with its legendary label is short-lived.
What gives in the club that has made the legend grow exponentially in the last few years? “It’s their hallmark of exclusiveness which the club is careful to promote”, replies a Galician, who has also been unable to gain access. “They say there are dark rooms inside and, maybe, the best music”, adds Ana. Little is known about the interior, over and above the odd testimonial from people who have managed to get in, as the image of Berlin’s clubs is jealously guarded.
The night is taking its toll on our legs. And, to round off our whirlwind weekend, we make another mistake – we go to the best afternoon club, but in the early hours. Sisyphos has been one of Berlin’s mainstays in the last few years. It is a huge, open-air expanse on the riverside, where our eyes begin to shut. We take a taxi as our NH is on the far side of the city, and we leave mulling over our encounter with techno in Berlin. “We’ll be back!”
Text by Yeray S. Iborra | Our thanks to Ángel Molina, Ana Riaza, Carlota Surós and Martí Renau for the first-hand information on the itinerary for this article.
Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS, Michael Mayer
more info
Six Activities with Children in Brindisi
Brindisi, with a population of nearly 90,000 inhabitants, is a surprisingly calm and highly relaxing destination. The city has a glorious past, as evinced in the large number of vestiges still to be seen. Indeed, since ancient times Brindisi was known as the “Gateway to the East”, on account of its geographical location. This led it to become the perfect harbour for Roman vessels to dock at before sailing for the Near East. It was subsequently pilgrims, crusaders and merchants that set out from these shores, and the city also marked the end of the Roman road known as the Via Appia or Appian Way. Here at Vueling City we have prepared six family activities for your stay in this resort, which is also ideal for indulging in “slow tourism”.
Strolling Through the City
The city of Brindisi, on the Adriatic Sea, is situated between two deep bays and connected to the open sea via a deep, narrow channel overlooked by the Castello Rosso (Red Castle), so called for the colour of the stone used in its construction. This provides an exceptional starting point for a tour of the city. Another ideal start is the Castello Svevo or Swabian Castle, which overlooks the harbour’s western channel. The fortress is trapezoidal in shape, although it was remodelled many times over after the arrival of the Aragonese. Your itinerary might then take you to San Giovanni al Sepolcro (the Church of Saint John Sepulchre), which features a splendid, finely decorated marble portal. From there you can head for the Piazza del Duomo and visit the Cathedral. Next, go down the Via Colonne and stop at the foot of the Colonna Romana (Roman Column), originally flanked by another, identical column which is currently located in Lecce. The best way to round off the tour is to approach the Corso Garibaldi, a palm-tree-lined avenue which connects the harbour to the esplanade and train station.
Italy’s Largest Safari Park with Wild Animals
An outing likely to be hugely popular with the kids is a visit to the safari park with the largest number of wild animals in Italy, situated a few kilometres from Fasano. At Fasanolandia, lions, tigers, bears, elephants, antelope, giraffe, bison, deer, zebras and camels roam free among the park’s lush Mediterranean vegetation. The circuit is negotiated by car and there are several routes to choose from. The park also boasts an ornithological exhibit, a tropical room, a zoo and an oceanarium, each with its own variety of wild species – macaws, zebra finches, alligators, snakes, bears, hippos, dolphins and penguins, among others. There is also a Zoo Safari and a large Theme Park.
Total Relax
Another great place to chill out, as well as to enjoy healing therapies and personal care treatment are the Torre Canne Thermal Baths, set amid a lovely fir-tree park which includes a small lake fed by underground streams renowned for their therapeutic properties. This is a spot for the whole family to enjoy water in a different way.
Enjoy Nature
The Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve, a veritable oasis run by the WWF (World Wildlife Fund for Nature), is undoubtedly the most spectacular nature park in the area. If offers a wealth of possibilities, criss-crossed by footpaths and trails that are ideal for long, relaxed hikes or bicycle outings with the children. If you haven’t brought the children along, you could do some yoga, a popular activity here in the heart of this splendid nature reserve.
A Tranquil Sea
If there is a place all children root for, it has to be the seaside. The Brindisi coastline is flat and sandy throughout. It is blessed with a longer-than-usual holiday season thanks to its mild climate, which spills over into the autumn. The crystal-clear emerald-green and deep, sea-blue sea is ideal for diving, revealing stunningly rich Mediterranean flora and a seabed where the plant-carpeted depths are interspersed with rocky and sandy sea floors. This is the perfect habitat for the common snipe, ducks, nightingales and various kinds of amphibians. It is also the domain of a wealth of marine plant species, including undersea meadows of seagrass (Posidonia oceanica), sea fans or gorgonians and coral.
Back to the Past
In mid-August,Ostuni,a half-hour’s drive north of Brindisi, hosts the traditional Sagra Vecchi Tempi festivity, packed with musical and folk events, a cult festival that pays homage to the past. Take a stroll through the town’s alleyways and steep yourself in quaint scenes of country life set in accurately reconstructed craft workshops, where you can also taste delicious snacks of traditional local cuisine. At the forefront are the cheeses, both fresh and cured, made on local livestock farms and featuring ricotta, cacioricotta and pecorino, a sheep’s-milk cheese. And, true to local tradition, you can also find a variety of breads – focacce, frise and taralli. A special treat is to be had in the form of typical confectionery, notably the mandorla riccia or “curled almond” and cegliese,a biscuit containing roast almonds, cherry preserve and lemon.
Don’t think twice – if you’re seeking a calm yet entertaining holiday with the children, check out our flights here!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Fototeca ENIT-Turismo Italiano, Freshcreator
more infoUnusual Catania
How to define Catania? A city of a thousand faces, a thousand flavours, a thousands treasures. A city of the sea and of a volcano, port on the Ionian sea, and capital of Etna. A city of tradesmen, countryfolk and fishermen who have always lived in symbiosis with the water, the fire, the sea and the mountains. A city of a thousand hearts of a multiethnic culture, multicultural, multi-religious, home of Bellini, of Sicilian Baroque, and of street food. From the sea to the mountains, the endless fields of orange groves and vineyards of the Etna coast, the black cliffs of volcanic rock and the long stretches of white sand, the Roman ruins and the Baroque churches, the festival of Saint Agata, and the city centre markets, all this is Catania.
You probably already know the Baroque, the churches, the palaces, the streets, the balconies and the traditions that give life to the city centre. Instead, choose one of the many alternative experiences of Catania, unearthed by sicilying.com, the portal to the best experiences in Sicily. Here we have three suggestions for you.
Suggestion one:take a walk down the streets of the city centre with your nose in the air, to explore the city by the scents that invade it.
The food and culinary traditions found here are a treasure trove of many cultural influences: Greeks, Phoenicians and Romans, Normans and Arabs, Spanish and French, have all left their mark. Peasant cooking and aristocratic cuisine, rich and poor ingredients blend together to create authentic and intense flavours. Sophisticated restaurants are complemented by genuine traditional taverns, and alleyways are brought to life by the most extraordinary street food.
Catania is the home of "street" food. Entrusting yourselves to the best of specialized tour operators, you will be able to combine a Catania tour with the discovery of the best food and wine that the city can offer. You can visit the Sicilian Baroque in Piazza Duomo or Via Crociferi, cross the famous fish market ("la pescheria") and taste the "sangeli" (pig's blood) or "zuzzu" (meat jelly). In Piazza Stesicoro, with the Roman amphitheatre, you can stop in a traditional bar to sample the street foodpar excellence: the “arancino”, the “cartocciata”, the “cipollina”, and all the sweet and savory varieties of "walking" food. Or let yourself be guided by local chefs through the traditional markets of the centre, to then be put to work in preparing Sicilian cuisine yourself.
Suggestion two:immerse yourself in the green countryside of Catania, in search of the roots of the most famous Sicilian wines. Many wineries of Catania trace their origins back to the 1700s: their vineyards are located on lava rock 700 metres above sea level and are cultivated according to methods handed down from generation to generation. The typical micro-climate and the favourable characteristics of the volcanic soil allow the cultivation of a high quality grape.
Beyond the vineyards and you will find old “bagli” (isolated old buildings in the Sicilian countryside), Fourteenth Century monasteries, now “agriturismi” farm homestays. The wine tasting in a cellar on Mount Etna is a wonderful experience, giving you the chance to savour "on the land" some of the most famous products of this region - Nero d'Avola, Inzolia, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Etna DOC red and white – all washed down with typical cuisine tastings.
Suggestion three:after having eaten and tasted some wine, it's time to get out of the city and climb in mountain bike the “muntagna”, Mount Etna! Mount Etna, the mountain of fire, with a summit of 3,300 metres above sea level, the highest active volcano in Europe.
With its lunar landscapes at high altitude, and woods along the coast, the trails and unique landscapes, the typical products and the historical centres of the little towns, Etna is in every season a fascinating visit, for travellers and nature lovers, for lovers of food and wine, for lovers of outdoor sports in unique surroundings.
The lava flows have greatly influenced the land, making it extremely varied, rocks, lush vegetation and landscapes, are always in continuous change as the substrate moves over time, as temperatures, precipitation and exposure also vary at these altitudes.
Making an Etna tour by bike along the stunning trails (the “Pista Altomontana”) led by an expert guide, or try an Etna bike tourdescending from the volcano to the sea, either way it'll be an extraordinary experience that you will remember for years to come.
Would you rather see Sicily from a completely unique point of view, unusual and absolutely breathtaking? Then book a mongolfiera tour in an hot air balloon! The flight will give you the chance to live a totally extraordinary experience, giving you an unforgettable view of the whole of Sicily; on landing a glass of fine Etna wine will be waiting for you, along with some special typical local products, and you will be awarded a “flight baptism certificate” signed by the pilot.
Come on, don't just settle for the usual stay: Catania is a city to enjoy to the full!
more info