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A Route Through the Seville of Don Juan Tenorio

There is one night in the year inevitably associated with witches, horror stories, pumpkins, bonfires and disguises and that it is 31 October, the eve of All Saints. One of the many traditions alive in Spain is the stage performance of Don Juan Tenorio, by the poet, José Zorrilla. The ritual has been performed continuously ever since it made its debut around 1844. While at first glance a romantic drama might seem out of place on a night more suited to The Munsters, there is a reason for it – much of the second act in the play takes place in a cemetery, and many of the protagonists are dead souls who come alive and interact with the lead figure. Chilling, isn’t it?

Don Juan Tenorio’s Seville

Having solved the first mystery, a second issue arises. What connection is there between one of the most popular Juanes in literature and the city of Seville? First, it was here in Seville that José Zorrilla wrote his stage play and where the story is set. Granted, Zorrilla was actually inspired by Tirso de Molina’s The Trickster of Seville and the Stone Guest, written in 1630, which is where the myth of Don Juan stems from. The work ended up seducing such artists as Molière, Mozart, Lord Byron and Espronceda, among others.

A different, entertaining way of touring Seville is to stroll along its streets in search of possible sites featured in that drama, and the spots where tributes to the work are located. Here are some of them:

The Hostería del Laurel (Plaza Venerables 5) is located in the heart of Santa Cruz, one of the most popular districts in Seville. This former boarding house is where José Zorrilla lodged when he wrote Don Juan Tenorio. This, the birthplace of the literary classic, also acted as a source of inspiration for some scenes. Despite the passage of time, it is still worth venturing inside, where some of its historical essence has survived intact.

A few yards from the Hostería del Laurel lies the Plaza de la Alianza, site of the home of Doña Ana de Pantoja, the future wife of Don Luis Mejía, who rivalled Don Juan Tenorio when it came to causing mischief. There is actually a scene in this square where Don Juan tries to wrest his beloved from the grasp of Don Luis.

It is more difficult to find the convent where Doña Inés – one of the main characters in this romantic drama – was confined. The convent belonged to the Order of Calatrava, which is why the habits she wears bear the emblematic red cross of Calatrava. Indeed, a convent once stood in the Calle de Calatrava, which was re-christened thus in honour of the literary work. Following the disentailment it was subsequently demolished, the sole surviving vestige being a chapel which was eventually turned into a warehouse. Easier to locate is the Plaza de Santa Marta, which everyone agrees was the spot where Doña Inés was abducted by our hero.

Still in the beautiful Santa Cruz quarter, we find the Plaza de Doña Elvira, site of the home of Don Gonzalo de Ulloa, the father of Doña Inés, who was staunchly against her alliance with Don Juan.

Concerning the location of Don Juan Tenorio’s house, literary sources cite it as being on the banks of the river Guadalquivir, where he ended up fleeing, although the exact spot is unknown. There is also the real site because, if you’ve done some reading on the subject, the Tenorio family actually existed and tradition places them in the Convent of San Leandro, situated in the square of the same name.

The scene of the final duel, in which Captain Centella kills Don Juan Tenorio, takes place in the present-day Calle Génova, now re-christened the Avenida de la Constitución.

To wind up this tour commemorating the literary classic, you can visit the Plaza de los Refinadores where a statue to Don Juan Tenorio, sculpted by Nicomedes Díaz Piquero, was erected in 1975.

By the way – if you’re in Seville any weekend from 31 October to 15 November, we recommend visiting the San Fernando Cemeterywhere Engranajes Culturales is staging a dramatised visit and performance of the third act of Don Juan Tenorio.

Ready to be a Don Juan in Seville? Secure your Vueling ticket here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Víctor Fernández Salinas, Consuelo Ternero, Sandra Vallaure

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A Walk Through Sofia with Fuel Fandango

Fuel Fandango is a duo made up of the producer, Alejandro Acosta (also on the Mojo Project) and the Cordovan singer, Cristina Manjón, better known as Nita. The project has been ongoing since 2010 and the duo have built up one of the largest fan bases in Spain, with a large following beyond its borders, too. They made their recording debut in 2011 with a disc and publication of the same name. It was an instant hit with its bold style blend of funk, electronic, flamenco and copla. “Trece Lunas”, an even greater success, emerged two years later. Here at My Vueling City we love Fuel Fandango, a fact that prompted us to ask them for a rundown on the spots they liked best in Sofia during their concert tour there.

“This is the third time we’ve played in Sofia. We love the city and each time we discover new parts of it with a charm all their own. The people are very hospitable and warm. We always feel welcome whenever we come here”, Fuel Fandango told us on their return from the Bulgarian capital. Theirs was a working trip: “We played in the Sofia Live Club, one of the most delightful spots we’ve visited. It’s like a New York jazz club, but on a larger scale, with spectacular sound and a pleasing stage. Most of the international stars that tour Sofia have played at that venue.” However, they also found time to enjoy themselves.

Eating Away

Yoghurt,lukanka (a kind of sausage) and salad are some of the most typical foods in Bulgarian cuisine. Fruit and vegetables are also plentiful, thanks to the good climate. Very popular, too, are barbecues of pork, chicken and lamb. “We went to several typical Bulgarian restaurants – gastronomic tourism is our thing! The first night we went to Bulgary, an inviting, traditional-style eatery founded in 1922. Bulgarian food and wine are wonderful!” But things did not stop there: “We also visited another Bulgarian restaurant; this time, a more modern one. We can wholeheartedly recommend it – it’s called MoMa and the decor is really cool. It combines traditional design elements with contemporary ones.” Also characteristic of Bulgaria’s gastronomy is the variety of local wines and other alcoholic drinks like rakia, mastika and mint. Bulgarian has some fine wines, prominent among them being Dimiat and Mavrud.

Hidden Treasures and the Crown Jewel

They also found time to sightsee and uncover some small gems: “We also stopped off at record shops, as we always do when we tour abroad, to seek out new music and hidden treasures. They took us to this basement store, in a really out-of-the-way place. In the second-hand section, Ale went to town, coming away with some authentic jewels, including some vinyls of traditional Bulgarian music.” The store is called Dukyan Meloman, said Nita, adding: “The city centre is rather small, but it’s really nice to wander through its streets, with small shops of all kinds. It’s very lively.” Although Alejandro would have liked to stay on longer in that bargain basement, they still had time to see other charming spots in the city. “In the square with the Alejandro Nevski Cathedral (one of the largest orthodox churches in the world, and really priceless), there are antique stalls with loads of intriguing objects from the old Soviet Union.”

It was clearly an emotionally charged trip: “We’ve played in Sofia three years on the trot and each time it gets better. We’re still blown away when we see fans in the front rows singing our songs. One girl sang one of our tunes and her mother said she had signed up for Spanish classes at the Instituto Cervantes because she wanted to learn our songs. These are the stories we find the most touching.” The Instituto Cervantes is a Spanish state institution with the mission to promote and teach the Spanish language, and to spread Spanish and Latin American culture. It played a major part in organising and publicising this concert. They also helped us get in touch with the group.

Come and discover Sofia now! Check out our flights here.

Text by Fuel Fandango e ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Fuel Fandango, n-Off Entertainment, Dennis Jarvis, Bulgary, MoMa, Instituto Cervantes

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Between classics and moderns

Located between Middle East and the Mediterranean Sea, Israel has adopted the culinary traditions from many parts of the world.

To this culinary blend, Arabs have contributed with the traditional recipes of hummus or falafel, while adopting, in the other hand, traditional food from Jewish arriving from Hungary and Poland, taking the culinary arts of their home country.

In this past few years, Tel Aviv has become in the gastronomic capital of the country, with luxury restaurants and delicious street food, mixing products and flavours from all over the world.

CLASICS

Falafel

The humble falafel is, as happens with the regional food in each country, a matter of dispute and controversy. Everyone has their favourite place and they can argue long and hard why it’s better. This is a cheap and fast snack but however it’s not less delicious than other food. Furthermore, now you can find falafel for anyone, like made of wheat or gluten-free pita.

And if you want to eat a good kebab, you can try one of the best very near from Tel Aviv. It is served in Abu Ghosh , and they say it is one of the top 5 kebab restaurants in Middle Eastern, specifically located in the third position. The fact is that the Arab village of Abu Ghosh, on the road between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, is known for its hummus restaurants and is very popular with both locals and tourists. Here you have the guarantee that they will serve a memorable meat dish . They mix the beef with onion, parsley, pine nuts and some grease before threading the needle on an iron skewer. It is cooked on a grill and served with rice and salad, with a pinkish hue inside.

Another of the most remarkable places is HaKosem, with fresh falafels made of chick peas from Spain, very spiced with cumin, cilantro, garlic, paprika, onion and sesame seeds. In Yahaloma, in the other hand, it’s prepared following the Egyptian style. Yahaloma Levy has the store next to the Levinsky market and falafels are only served on Tuesday and Wednesday, as a tribute to the owner’s mum, who was born in Alexandria. The falafel balls are served with marinated arugula with lemon, pickles, tahini and spicy homemade sauce.

Or in Gabai, where generous falafels are served since 1946, you’d have plenty of it! Pita is also filled with a large amount of vegetables and a delicious spicy sauce.

Hummus

The best places to try hummus are closed once they finish the stock. It’s necessary to get there early to not miss your portion of this delicious food with an Arab origin that, nevertheless, was adopted by Israel almost as a national dish.

In Ali Karavan/Abu Hasan, for instance, hummus is served with lemon juice and onion or with beans and chickpeas as a topping, fresh & creamy. However, there will be always a waiting queue, don’t despair. The queue ends fast because people just eats and leave to let new costumers eat.

Ali Karavan/Abu Hasan, an old family business in operation for almost 40 years since 1966, serves what is considered the best hummus in Tel Aviv. This is a small place, a bit noisy sometimes, but it’s a must-go place when you are in the Jaffa area.

Ali Karavan/Abu Hasan
1 Dolfin Street | Jaffa, Tel Aviv 6813
Schedule: from 7:45 until the hummus is finished

MODERNS

Vicky Cristina
Prof. Yehezkel Kaufmann 2
vicky-cristina.co.il

A place with two different areas, just like in Woody Allen’s movie. Vicky is the tapas restaurant and Cristina is the bar. While the restaurant Vicky was inspired in Park Güell, with "trencadís" white tables and a relaxing patio outside, Cristina bar is where the nightlife takes place.

Dallal
10 Shabazi Street, Neve Tzedek
www.dallal.info

The place where artists and bohemians meet up in Zedek, the southwest quarter in Tel Aviv. The restaurant is in an old inn from the 19th century restored with patios and an outdoor bar, lively during nigh time. You can order a wide variety of delicious salads, gourmet dishes and a great wine menu, good value for money.

Nana Bar
1 Ahad Haam
www.nanabar.co.il

Also in Neve Zedek quarter you can find Nana Bar. A relaxed interior is a genuine oasis to celebrate gatherings or dinners with friends, also with a gardened patio. The decoration is delightful, with artwork or odd and exclusive furniture. Fresh and unpretentious food, with a wide variety of fish, vegetables and delicious desserts are served here.

Picture pita de falafel por Ted Eytan | picture falafel por Gopal Venkatesan

Why not take a trip to Tel Aviv? Have a look at our flights here!

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Neve Tzedek the Bohemian Quarter of Tel Aviv

Neve Tzedek, which in Hebrew means “home of justice”, was the first Jewish quarter to be built beyond the walls of the ancient port of Jaffa, twin to the still inexistent city of Tel Aviv (which emerged in the 1880s). From the outset, it was a place of refuge of the some of the most illustrious figures of Israeli culture. Now, a century after it was founded, its bohemian atmosphere is still in full swing. Some of the houses in this quarter are veritable monuments, built in such styles as the Bauhaus or Art Deco, while its streets are studded with cultural centres, restaurants, shops, cafés and bars you simply must visit on your stay in Tel Aviv. Here are some of the standout venues:

Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre
A must-visit spot on any art tour of Neve Tzedek. Fronted by a large mural by David Tartakover, one of Israel’s leading artists, the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre has four spaces which host performances by some of the foremost national and international dance companies. It is also the headquarters of the highly acclaimed Batsheva Dance Company. If you aren’t much moved by dance, you will certainly by stunned by the mesmerising interior plaza, the surrounding gardens or the Suzanne Café, one of the best spots in the neighbourhood to while away the afternoon chatting over a steamy cup of coffee. Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre, 5 Yechieli Street.

Dallal
It is important not only to replenish your energies, but to do so where eating is raised to the heights of pure pleasure. In Neve Tzedek, Dallal is such a place. Located in the heart of the quarter, the cuisine at this restaurant draws inspiration from both nearby Jaffa and its Arab roots, and the Mediterranean. Sheer bliss on the palate. Make a point of getting there early and have a cocktail in their enchanting outside square. Dallal, 10 Shabazi Street.

Chelouche Gallery
Dating from 1886, this was the first building to be erected in Neve Tzedek. Aharon Chelouche, a landowner, jeweller and moneychanger, was one of the leading figures in Jaffa’s Jewish community in the late 19th century. A co-founder of this neighbourhood, together with Shimon Rokach and others, the erstwhile home of Chelouche is now one of the city’s paramount art galleries. While the works on its walls are fascinating, no less so are the views of the quarter to be had from the roof terrace. Be sure to go up to the top. Chelouche House, 32 Shlush Street.

HaTachana
At the end of Shabazi Street, the main and most crowded thoroughfare in Neve Tzedek, stands HaTachana, the Hebrew name for Jaffa’s old railway station. Built in 1892, HaTachana eventually fell into disuse and was closed for years. In recent times it was restored and renovated to house a number of cafés, bars, restaurants, shops and markets, turning the former train station into one of the liveliest points both in the district and the whole city. HaTachana, 1 Kaufmann Street.

Jajo
This small wine bar, with a capacity of hardly 14 people, is sophisticated yet inviting and boasts an excellent wine list. Its standout items are imported from Spain and France, and it also features an exciting list of cocktails. It is the ideal spot for ending off a day’s sightseeing in Neve Tzedek. Jajo, 44 Shabazi Street.

Carmel Market
Carmel Market (in Hebrew, Shuk Ha'Carmel) is a must-visit landmark for anyone arriving in Tel Aviv. Located on the edge of the Neve Tzedek quarter, it is a blend of a regular market, street market and souq, and is divided into two sections. The first houses stalls selling clothing, footwear, electrical appliances, etc. often at laughable prices. The highlight of the second and far more attractive section is an area of florists’ stalls, but it also has food stalls (fruit and vegetables, meat, cheeses, breads…), and those selling spices, which provide a fascinating explosion of colour, textures and aromas. 1 HaCarmel Street.

Nachum Gutman Museum of Art
Nachum Gutman, an Israeli painter and sculptor of Russian origin, was a cardinal figure in endowing Israeli art with a style of its own. Indeed, he departed from the European influences of his masters, which he regarded as inadequate for portraying the uniqueness of his country and its landscapes. His works are on display in various public buildings in Tel Aviv and, of course, in the Nachum Gutman Museum of Art as well. Nachum Gutman Museum of Art, 21 Shimon Rokach Street.

Rokach House
The journalist Shimon Rokach was the founder of a neighbourhood which at the end of the 19th century was part of the old city of Jaffa. Built in 1887, the Rokach family home is now an interesting museum devoted to that period. It is also the home of Lea Majaro-Mintz, Shimon’s granddaughter and one of the most widely acclaimed painters and sculptors in Israel. Rokach House, 36 Shimon Rokach Street.

Be sure to discover Neve Tzedek – book your Vueling to Tel Aviv here.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

Images by Israel Photo Gallery, Amos Gil, israeltourism, Julien Menichini

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