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The Best Tapas in A Coruña

The Concurso de Tapas Picadillo is one of the most acclaimed in northern Spain. In A Coruña, the whole city gets involved, with a good many culinary establishments presenting their best creations. In some areas of the city, participants have come together in the form of group entries. Following is a rundown of some of the bites that surprised us most. As there were over 70 participants, we have made a selection of those located near the historic city centre. Although the contest is over, bear in mind you can still savour the tapas until 31 December, and you can look up this year’s winners on the competition website.

The Ciudad Vieja, Monte Alto, Zalaeta and Plaza de España Area

The earliest settlement in A Coruña is what is now known as Ciudad Vieja (Old City), an area which features monuments prior to the 19th century. This is the perfect place to stroll around, in the hushed atmosphere of its cobbled backstreets. The best place to start the route is hard by the San Carlos Gardens, at an establishment called A Boca do Lobo, where you can try the two special tapas that entered the competition. The first, creative offering is Galician octopus at 100°, seaweed coulis and liquid croquette with a pork crust. The other is the traditional roast Celtic pork dewlap and potatoes in their gravy. On the edge of the Ciudad Vieja lies the Plaza de María Pita, a complex of striking harmony arranged around a statue of a local heroine who fought against English corsairs. The square is surrounded by buildings with porticoes where some of the city’s main bars and restaurants are located. These include Breen’s Tavern, where you can enjoy a scrumptious cod-and-prawn brandade. Next door is El Ángel Café Bar (Plaza María Pita, 25) whose “Celtic pouches” were a surprising entry in the competition, while El Tequeño made a bold move with their creative, melgacho tapa based on small-spotted catshark tail.

The Barrera, La Marina, Galera, Estrella and Olmos Area

This is the nerve centre of A Coruña’s tapas bars, an area also known as La Pescadería, where the largest number of establishments is concentrated. The Calle Franxa, which runs from the Plaza de María Pita, is studded with seafood restaurants, Cuban and Turkish eateries, and a whole gamut of traditional tascas, beer gardens, jamonerías and wine cellars. The stretch leading from Ciudad Vieja to Los Cantones is another area crammed with bars and restaurants. However, the highest concentration of these is found along Calle Barrera, which boasts no less than thirteen contestants in the tapas competition. Like A Casa da Moura(Barrera, 9), with their delicious ovo da moura, or Alma Negra (Barrera, 13), with their creative mackerel taco, as well as a more traditional dish known as mar y montaña de tendones y callos de bacalao (“sea and mountains of tendons and cod tripe”). For us, however, pride of place goes to the stunning tartar de zamburiñas y aguacate sobre cama de brotes tiernos y brotes de col morada (“tartar of variegated scallop and avocado on a bed of tender bean sprouts and red cabbage shoots”), to be had at Tapa Negra. Calle Galera, which leads into Calle Olmos, is flanked by some of A Coruña’s classic tapas bars which have been handed down from one generation to the next.

The Alameda, Plaza de Galicia, Plaza de Vigo and Juan Flórez Area

Another large collection of tapas bars is grouped around the two aforementioned squares. This is the heart of the Ensanche quarter, an important shopping and business precinct, with a good many stores and offices, but also taverns and restaurants. It is part of the Picasso District, an area running from Juana de Vega to Plaza de Mina, named after the Malagan artist who lived and studied for a few years in this part of A Coruña. The streets Juan Flórez, Linares Rivas and Ramón de la Sagra also fall within its zone of influence.

We strolled through the area stretching from Los Cantones to the Parque de Santa Margarita; then along Juan Florez up to Avenida de Rubine, which leads to the Riazor football stadium. To start with, at Casa Martín, near the Plaza de Pontevedra, you should try the empanada de xoubas y grelos (pilchard and turnip top pie). Just one street away is El Huerto Los Cantones (Cantón Pequeño, 22) where, if you’re still feeling peckish – or you have just started out on the route – you will be well satisfied with the miniburguer de pez espada, tomate semiseco, espinaca fresca y salsa de almejas en pan de cereales (swordfish mini burger, semi-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach and clam sauce on wholemeal bread). Any better offer?

Don’t miss the chance to sink your teeth into the best, traditional-style, creative tapas currently to be had in A Coruña. Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Turismo A Coruña, Concurso de Tapas Picadillo

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Cool Off with the Family in Santiago

Santiago de Compostela is a historic enclave in the north-east of the Iberian Peninsula and, in the Middle Ages, it became a major centre of Christian pilgrimage. Both the clergy and laymen and women journeyed to the city from all corners of Europe at some time in their lives to visit the remains of James the Apostle, which were unearthed in the current Santiago Cathedral in 813 and preserved there ever since.

Nowadays the city is a popular destination all year around. The Road is a big draw, and not only for the more devout, as it attracts both amateur and professional sportspeople and even hikers and sporadic walkers. Here, we are going to deal with the latter group. The fact is that more and more families elect to do a few stretches of the Road to Santiago. We are going to focus on refreshing activities to engage in once you have completed the route. Everyone can have fun here, so you won’t want to miss out on it.

Before embarking on that, however, it is worth going for a walk around Santiago. One way of gauging the city’s pulse is by getting a feel for its size. We recommend you take a ride on the tourist train, which goes around the whole historic centre. It will lead you past landmark buildings, uncover gardens and provide you with panoramic views of the monumental area and the Cathedral. The summer schedule (July and August) is from 11 a.m. to 8.30 p.m. and the train leaves every half an hour. You can get it in the Plaza de Obradoiro and the route lasts 45 minutes. The price for children is 4 euros, while infants under 4 years old can ride for free.

Cool Off!

Santiago has several swimming pools – both indoor and outdoor – where you can swim, play and sunbathe. Of all the pools, the Piscinas do Sar comes highly recommended, with its bathing area adjacent to the multi-purpose Fontes do Sar, which has a children’s pool (covered in winter and outdoor in July and August).

If you instead prefer being immersed in natural surroundings, a few minutes from the city lie the River Beaches with all kinds of amenities. Set in a nature spot conducive to relaxation, the swimming area of Seira is one of the main tourist spots in the Concello (municipality) de Rois, particularly in summer. There you can do watersports and chill out in perfect harmony with nature. It has green spaces and picnic areas. Also suitable for children is the Furelos swimming area (Melide).

Also worth visiting are the beaches on the rías (estuaries) with their fine sand and calm waters, ideal for children. The nearest estuary beaches are just over half an hour away.

Eat and Eat

Children are welcome in the city’s restaurants and cafés. However, to ensure the best possible service and peace and quiet, it is advisable to avoid the peak hours.

Santiago Turismo offers a selection of restaurants and cafés for those touring with children. Some feature children’s menus, others are spacious and quiet and several have pleasant open-air terraces and even swings. The ambience and decor in some instances is specifically suited to children.

Accommodation

Camping is a good option in summer. Located on one of the hills overlooking the city, and just a 15-minute walk from the monumental area, is the As Cancelas urban campsite. It has bungalows with great views of Santiago, is sited in a very pleasant tree-lined setting and has a swimming pool and other amenities.

Another option for family overnights are the numerous rural tourism lodgings in the vicinity of Santiago de Compostela. Conducive to contact with nature and catering for children, they are the ideal accommodation for youngsters. Almost all of them have cots and some even have rooms full of toys and special facilities designed for keeping children entertained on rainy days.

The city of Santiago proper also has a broad selection of accommodations, ranging from the big hotel chains to house or apartment rentals and small hotels in the monumental centre with a charm of their own, often located in historic buildings with a delightful atmosphere.

Why wait to discover Santiago de Compostela with the family? Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Turismo de Santiago, Área Santiago

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Experience Donosti Through Sport

Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.

I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.

More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic

In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.

But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:

Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.

Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.

Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.

Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.

If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.

As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.

San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón
– the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon
– and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing
– in September.
Cross de las tres playas
– in October.

 

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro

 

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Jerusalem Holy Sites

A Spanish Christian, New York Jew and Pakistani Muslim might seem to have little in common but, if we dig deeper into their cultural past, the city of Jerusalem is the fundamental origin of all three religions. This is the site where Jesus was crucified, where Solomon built his temple and where Muhammad went on his Night Journey. Far removed from the opulence of European cathedrals, Jerusalem’s places of worship are sheer simplicity. Christians, Jews and Muslims coexist in the narrow streets of Jerusalem’s Old City, an amalgam of religions which often leads to disputes and conflict. In short, Jerusalem is synonymous with religion.

The Via Dolorosa

The Via Dolorosa is the Way of the Cross along which Christ walked to the Crucifixion after being judged. The site of the 14 Stations of the Cross has changed over time and the route has also varied. Thousands of pilgrims make their way along the Via Dolorosa when visiting the city. The route starts at the Antonia Fortress and proceeds along King David Street, crossing the Main Souq and ending at Golgotha, the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where the Crucifixion and burial of Christ are assumed to have taken place.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Holy Sepulchre is the last Station on the Via Dolorosa and it is here that Christ was buried in a tomb belonging to Joseph of Arimathea. The original basilica was commissioned by the Emperor Constantine between 335 and 326 BC. After being destroyed several times and being gutted by fires and earthquakes, the church we see today is uneven in appearance and has several chapels and other spaces. In all, the church belongs to seven different Christian denominations, all of whom manage their own chapels, as well as the common areas. The two holiest sites in the church are Golgotha, where Christ was crucified – a spot you come across on entering the precinct – and Christ’s tomb.

The Wailing Wall

Possibly one of the most emblematic spots in Jerusalem, the Wailing Wall is the holiest site in Judaism. Thousands of Jews pray each day at the Wailing Wall, while both locals and tourists stuff notes bearing petitions and wishes between the stones. The Wall was once part of the retaining perimeter wall of the platform on which the Temple stood and is the closest spot to the Holy of Holies in that building – hence its importance to Jews.

Haram Ash-Sharif

This vast esplanade houses Jerusalem’s most striking building, the Dome of the Rock. Tradition has it that this is the spot where Solomon’s Temple and the Second Temple both stood. This area on the south-east side of the Old City became a Muslim holy site when the Dome of the Rock was built in AD 691. Various other buildings have been erected since then and this is now the third most sacred Islamic shrine in the world. Standing alongside the Dome of the Rock is the other important building in the precinct, the Mosque of Al-Aqsa. Built in the 8th century AD, it is the main place of worship for Muslims in Jerusalem. Unfortunately, after the Second Intifada in the year 2000, only Muslims are allowed to enter these buildings, but at certain times the esplanade is open to everyone, so the mosques can be observed from the outside.

Mount of Olives

The Mount of Olives lies on the east side of the Old City. It is the site of one of the oldest cemeteries in the world, as it has been in continuous use since the third millennium BC. Various places of worship stand here, notably the Chapel of the Ascension, built on the spot where Jesus ascended into Heaven, the Tomb of the Virgin Mary and, in the Garden of Gethsemane, the Basilica of Agony, the site where Christ prayed before being arrested.

Mount Zion

Mount Zion lies alongside the Mount of Olives. This mount is closely linked to The Last Supper and to King David, who is believed to be buried here. Hence it is holy to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. Following the death of Christ, the disciples started meeting here to pray in the Room of the Last Supper. Subsequently, they gathered around the stone where the Virgin Mary is said to have died. This is the site of the Abbey of the Dormition, commissioned by Kaiser Wilhelm II in the early 20th century.

Be sure to visit Jerusalem’s Holy Sites, as well as the rest of the city – check out our flights here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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