By Ferran Imedio from Gastronomistas

Nancy Albrecht, who was born and bred in Berlin and, as the marketing manager at a luxury hotel, knows everything that’s going on in the German capital, tells us that what is happening here in gastronomy is “crazy”. With a new places opening every weekend, she does’nt know where to start, because what is on offer is ever more overwhelming, as vast as the city itself. 

“What has happened here food-wise over the last three or four years is incredible. Incredible“, confirms Matthias Diether, one of the city’s most renowned and youngest chefs.

We had heard that in these parts that something was going on in the German capital. We wanted to see for ourselves, so a few days ago we travelled to Berlin to get to know a city that is ‘on fire’ gastronomically. We went in search of places that were trendy, good and nice to look at (and several of them cheap), like the Bread & Butter trade show to be held from 14 to 16 January. Our base of operations was the Wyndham Grand Berlin Hotel, a modern establishment, well located (about 500 metres from Postdamer Platz), clean and with impeccable service.

TIM RAUE

One restaurant definitely not to be missed is the Tim Raue. A worthy example of a Michelin two star restaurant in one of the most centrall districts (in the Kreuzberg neighbourhood, a few metres from the historic Checkpoint Charlie). The suggestion may surprise you because you’ll think that an establishment so recommended by the bible of gastronomy will be very expensive and luxurious, but when I tell you there’s a three course set lunch for €38, things change, right? And with no etiquette or ceremony. The winelist offers 500 wines, many of them quite affordable, with prices starting from €28.

Tim Raue is a modern, pleasant place frequented by famous Berliners. So many come here that taking photos has been banned to protect the intimacy of celebrities.

And why do they go there? For its fusion Asian cuisine, always light, a marvel playing with aromas, hot spices, sweet flavours… Exoticism passed through the filter of a German who knows to how connect with the Western palate. Squaring the circle. Its cuisine is well rounded, always with some hot spice (not too much, just enough to be enjoyable), some sweetness (fruit) and some sharpness. And never any bread, potatoes, rice or pasta, so as not to detract from the symphony of flavours in each of its dishes. This makes it unique in Germany.

If you go there and your budget doesn’t stretch to the taster menus (from €118 to €168) but can stand the lunch menu (three dishes for €38; four for €48, five for €58 and six for €68), don’t miss the Cantonese style shrimp with mango, carrot and wasabi mayonnaise. Or duck reinterpreted on one of its variations: foie gras, broth, breast on waffle, or leek and apple. Unbeatable. Closed on Sunday and Monday. The rest of the week the kitchen is open from 12:00 noon to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 9 pm.
Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse, 26.

LA SOUPE POPULAIRE

How to convert a brewery into a restaurant. The ubiquitous Tim Raue knows how. You’ll find it done here with a radical industrial design: iron beams, cement, bare bricks in the walls… 

The menu is based on softened, modernised versions of German recipes. The Königsberger Klopse is a meatball originally accompanied with mashed potato, capers and a butter and flour sauce. Here it is the same, but much lighter, not overpowering as you would expect from such ingredients. The cod with vegetables and citrus touches, and the beef and vegetable broth, are well worth the visit.

Open Thursday to Saturday, from 12 noon to 11 pm. Average price between €30 and €40.
Prenzlauer Allee, 24

KATZ ORANGE

You’ll have to look for it because it’s hard to find. It is in the inner courtyard of a block of flats. This is a charming old brewery, built in the late 19th century, that stopped producing beer and is now a most welcoming, modern restaurant.

The light, international dishes, with a touch of sophistication, are made with organic produce. We really liked the salad with goose pâté, the beetroot broth and the salmon with mashed potato and marinated quince.

The taster menu costs €50 for four dishes (€25 more with wine) and €60 for five dishes (€30 more with wine). A la carte is around €40.

Open Monday to Saturday, from 6 pm to 11 pm. It has two floors with a cocktail bar on the ground floor.
Bergstrasse, 22

SAGE

While the DJ spins tunes (club and disco – no classical music because this is a superdiscofashion venue) you go on dining. Sage is considered one of the coolest venues in Europe. When the good weather arrives, it opens a ‘beach’ by the river, with sand and sun loungers where you can enjoy views of the river to the opposite side: on the other bank you can see the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Wall painted by graffiti artists from all over the world.

Here, in what was an old loom, they serve uncomplicated, contemporary international cuisine: pizza, soup, meat… Average price between €35 and €40. There are special menus with three dishes (€35), four dishes (€42) and seven dishes (€69). Ah, and of you’re a smoker, there’s a space reserved for you… And it’s covered.
Köpenicker Strasse, 18-20

CAFE AM NEUEN SEE

A must for anyone who likes spots that are quiet, bucolic, romantic even (if you go at night, there are those candles, those little lights by a lake in the Tiergarten, one of Berlin’s big parks). It gets full at weekends because the setting is so nice. Open every day from 9 am (they have a huge range of breakfasts) until midnight and beyond. The menu has simple, international dishes like pasta, pizza, soups, etc. But there is also German food. All products are local. If you’d like to have a drink at night, there are no cocktails but they do serve beer, soft drinks, spirits and liquors.

Lichtensteinallee, 2

COOKIES CREAM

The city’s fashionable vegetarian restaurant. “It’s Berlin”, sums up Diether, our spontaneous guide on this getaway. “It’s in a hidden away spot, where you’d never expect to find a restaurant. And when you walk in you see all kinds, from punks to people wearing suits and ties”.

Hidden away means next to the trade door of the neighbouring five star hotel. It’s an ugly door, with just a chandelier, suggesting there’s something different here, as a clue that you’re on the right track. The premises are a building that includes a restaurant (Cookies Cream, on the first floor), a disco (Cookies, on the ground floor) and a cocktail bar (Draytone, next door). So you’ve just finished your dinner (a three course menu with a starter, main and dessert, drinks not included, costs €36) and now you can enter the disco free of charge.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, evenings only.
Behrenstrasse, 55

CURRY 36

Its name makes it quite clear what to expect here. Curry is king. But, only applied to sausages of all kinds and chicken. Nothing else. They put it on the sausages, on the chips that go with them, in the ketchup… It’s a simple take away (you can also eat at high tables in the street, sheltered by an awning) but it’s always full of Berliners hooked on its way of preparing the hot dog and its variants, and on its prices that start from €1.20. Open every day from 9 am to 5 pm. If you don’t fancy this idea, right next to it there are similar places offering pizza and Chinese food.

Mehringdamm, 36

MUSTAFA

Berliners love this little Turkish place. They travel kilometres to get to this street kiosk next to the entrance to Mehringdamm underground station and to try its shawarma. It’s famous for its queues. We went at 11:30 am an it took us 30 minutes, but friends in the city tell us that at busy times you can wait for up to two hours. 

The portions are huuuuuge, tasty and spicy hot (just enough). They have golden brown chicken with vegetables, sauces and spices Prices are between €2.80 and €4.30.
Open week days from 10 am to 2 am, and weekends from 11 am to 5 pm.
Mehringdamm, 34

THE CASUAL BY PACO PÉREZ

Inside the Das Stue luxury hotel there are two restaurants by Paco Pérez,:the outstanding Cinco, with a Michelin star, and the The Casual, based on Spanish tapas. They are separated by a curtain. The famous restaurant’s taster menu is priced at €140 (€230 with drinks) and the price at The Casual is between €35 and €50.

There are unforgettable tapas like the Galician octopus on mashed potato with caramelized onions (the delicious sauce is paprika-based), the Iberian ham croquettes and spicy garlic shrimp with a perfect poached egg. There are also non-Spanish dishes, like steak tartar with truffled egg yolk and Chinese brioche (filled with Iberian rib pork).
The greatest care is taken over the quality of the ingredients to the point where the fish is brought to Berlin from Catalonia . 
The Casual never closes (the kitchen is open from 12 noon to 3 pm and from 6 pm to 11 pm). On Friday and Saturday nights there is live music or a DJ.
Drakestrasse, 1

BAR RAVAL

In Kreuzberg, one of the city’s most exciting areas, it is owned by Daniel Brühl. It serves tapas, including its unbeatable chicken and ham croquettes (look out Joselito) and cod fritters. There ate hot, cold and speciality tapas, and dishes of the week. And on the first Monday of each month there is paella for 40 people. A real party.

If you stay the night you can try from their list of gin tonics (not a usual drink in Berlin), added recently with 30 types of gin and 3 types of tonic.

Daniel Brühl is not always there because of his acting commitments, but this place is not just another investment for him, he really loves it. An example: he bought the syphon bottles that decorate the room from Barcelona’s Encants market and he also bought the traditional floor tiles in Barcelona. 

Open from 5 pm to 11 pm (weekends to midnight and later). Weekends in April to October from midday. Average price between €20 and €25. If you’re going for a weekend it’s better to book through their website a week in advance because it’s always full.
Ah, and if you go to the Bread & Butter trade fair, look out for them because they will have their own space. This year they will serve tapas and Spanish tortillas.
Lübbener Strasse, 1

FIRST FLOOR

If you want to give yourself an even bigger treat and you don’t mind digging deep in your pocket, check out First Floor, naturally enough on the first floor of the Palace Hotel. While the décor is elegant and classic, the kitchen is run by a chef who has fun with his staff and with his food, Matthias Diether. I’d call him Matthias Donald Duck Diether because his duck dishes are incredible. You’ll have to cough up at least €109 (a four-course menu, with six starters and two desserts included, but there are also menus at €129 and €159), but it’s worth it because eating there is great fun. Modern dishes based on French haute cuisine. 

The colourful presentation plays with textures, each ingredient being served in different versions on the same plate, always with a visual artistic touch. And the taste. The dish called Duck Through and Through is a must: pâté, ham, broth, breast, chutney… Breathtaking! But the crab from Australia and the halibut are also very good

Ah, and one other thing. The wine selection is unbelievable, infinite. There are 1,500 wines. They are in a winelist that the waiters call the ‘Bible’. Some are so good you’ll feel you’ve been in the divine presence.
Budapester Strasse, 45

STREET STALL

And if your budget runs low you can always grab a hot dog for €1.50 at a street stall like the one in the photo. You can see why it’s so cheap, when to sell a sandwich all you need is an umbrella and a hotplate, some sausages, mustard and ketchup. The one you see in the photo was in front of the cathedral, but they sell them for €1.35 in Alexanderplatz. You can’t beat that!

CAFÉ GIPFELTREFFEN

A trendy, cozy spot in the heart of the Kreuzberg district. You go in and feel like you’re in your living room. Simple warm decoration, windows onto the street, quiet background music… Ideal on cold rainy/snowy days.

Here you can order light meals like sandwiches and salads, and enjoy drinks, cold (juices, beer, wine, cocktails, spirits, water) or hot (tea, coffee), while you relax listening to music, chatting quietly with friends (even better with your partner) or reading a book.
After 6 pm it changes from a modern welcoming café into a restaurant with international cuisine cooked with local ingredients. Open every day from 9 am to midnight, and weekends from 10 am to midnight and later.
Görlitzerstrasse, 68

WYNDHAM GRAND BERLIN

 And why not eat at a hotel? Where I stayed, the Wyndham Grand Berlin, is a safe bet, and not just because it’s a great BBB (Bedroom with Bathroom and Breakfast) at a good price. The breakfast has a variety and quality that many top class hotels would be proud of, while the elegant restaurant, called The Post, offers really good Mediterranean cuisine (including gazpacho and Catalan-style grilled vegetable salad) at an average price of €25. Salads, pasta, pizzas, meats, fish… For lunch from 12 noon to 3 pm and in the evening from 6 pm to 10:30 pm.

Hallesche Strasse, 10

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.

A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.

Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró

Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…

You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).

You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).

You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.

Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.

Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.

Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.

Other Pointers

When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.

If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.

A destination worth discovering – Check out our flights here.

Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)

“The moon? Mars? Iceland? No, it’s Lanzarote!” You will often catch yourself thinking this as you roam this fascinating island along roads traversing uninhabited places, without anyone for miles around you. You will also wonder what it might be like to live in this pleasant land of disturbing beauty, surrounded everywhere by raging Atlantic waves relished by surfers from all over the world.

Tracts of lunar land alternating with stretches of desert, and others carpeted in vegetation, where palm trees stand side by side with lava fields, wild beaches, small fishing villages and, of course, the ubiquitous seaside developments catering to mass tourism.

And, as you contemplate the impossible patterns forged by centuries of intermittent lava flows in the rocks, and you hear the roar of the waves while munching on papas con mojo,you regret that the incomprehensible tourist dynamic should have earmarked Lanzarote as the almost exclusive preserve of family holidaymakers and honeymoon couples. That is when you wish Lanzarote would bare its Indie streak, without renouncing its conventionalism, and that we “Peninsulars” – that is what we have been dubbed by the witty locals – would make the trip at least once a year to this island overflowing with charm, which also has its less predictable side. And this chart of rankings proves it.

1- El Chupadero. Its owner, Barbara, is a former model and erstwhile German New Yorker. One day in the eighties, she came across a derelict building in the middle of the island and fell prey to its charm. She decided to refurbish it with her own hands and settle there permanently, along with her two small children. That was how this restaurant was born, unwittingly hipster to the marrow, where every corner is a marvel of good taste and the menu the epitome of indigenous cuisine based on excellent produce.

2- Bar Stop. At the other end of the island, in Yaiza, lies this legendary establishment, which dates from 1890. It has a homely feel and more than reasonable prices and appears not to have changed one jot since its beginnings. Bar Stop is a place where you can enjoy deliciously rustic home cooking any time of the day while you eavesdrop on the locals chattering away – they also seem to have come fresh from 1890, brimming with friendliness and hospitality.

Plaza Ntra. Sra. de los Remedios (Yaiza).

3- La Lupe. Going to Lanzarote only to end up eating in a Mexican, considering the oodles of papas arrugadas that are shouting to get our attention, may seem rather reckless. But, once you’ve tried La Lupe’s delicatessen and sense that it comes hot from the heart of Mexico City, you realise that you have found an exceptional Mexican cuisine. Carefully crafted tacos, enchiladas, moles and other delicacies in a highly recommendable Mexican restaurant. Ideal for dining to a Tequila rhythm before lighting up the night at Noise.

4- NoiseClub Lanzarote. This is what we might term Lanzarote’s underground concert venue, whose owners fight daily to create an Indie atmosphere in the very heart of the capital, Arrecife. Noise is a small, inviting venue featuring live performances on Friday and Saturday after 11.30 p.m. Performers are often musicians from the Peninsula, in line with the open-minded approach of the artificers of Noise and their urge to bring out a less conventional side of Lanzarote. Performances are variegated, ranging from funk to techno.

5- Lagomar. One of the world’s greats who succumbed to the charms of Lanzarote was Omar Sharif. Indeed, he ended up building a formidable house at the seaside, by way of a large, stunningly beautiful fortress, now turned into a restaurant and wine bar. Every nook in the maze-like interior of Lagomar is a fiesta, from the elegant dining-room to the small bar counter surrounded by armchairs, the beautiful gardens and the pool crowning the patio. It is the ideal spot for having a well crafted glass of wine and for enjoying, any day of the week, the pleasant temperatures of Lanzarote and the anachronistic aura – in the best sense of the word – which still pervades this legendary precinct.

Where to Sleep

Sands Beach Lanzarote: This stunning, four-star resort on the Costa Teguise, just 15 minutes from the airport, will play havoc with those who have difficulty getting their bearings. Six huge swimming pools – one of which is heated – a spa, gaming hall, supermarket, activities at all hours and enormous rooms with a kitchen make up this complex with its private beach, where guests are treated like kings and prices are actually affordable.

Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas

That Seville is famous for its tapas is a well-known fact. But the city also happens to be riding on a burgeoning culinary wave and, instead of just limiting itself to culinary tradition, it has jumped onto the internationally inspired bandwagon of carefree, innovative and excellent process of reinvention, as well as implementing novel techniques and flourishes of modernity.

Lalola – A Gourmet Tavern
I should perhaps dare introduce this restaurant as one of the best in Seville. Tasting the creations served up in this self-proclaimed “gourmet tavern” is well worth the long walk, as it is located far from the bustle of the city centre in the quarter of Los Remedios. Lalola is the domain of chef Javier Abascal, a youngster you are sure to hear about in the coming years. And, it’s just as well. His menu is an ode to his four loves – quality product, cooking over a slow fire, reminiscences of Sephardic cuisine and offal, which has its own section on the menu, allowing you to taste anything from boned pig trotters with creamy potatoes to beef sweetbread with aniseed  crumble and bamboo or monkfish foie gras. But, it doesn’t stop there, as the other shared dishes provide another surprise – organic chickpea hummus, La Vera red peppers and sesame, tuna tartare and algae noodles… Average ticket: €20 per head.

Mercado Lonja del Barranco – Variety For All Tastes
Go inside Mercado Lonja del Barranco and you can watch dapper gentlemen arriving in what is possibly the trendiest spot in Seville, with its Nordic, vintage aesthetic. Quite a shock after having strolled through the old Jewish quarter and come across a religious procession in the Triana neighbourhood. But, it rocks, as its taste lies in the variety. And, here, there is variety in abundance, highly recommendable for the hesitant, for foodies eager to taste a bit of everything and for parties of guests. Mercado Lonja del Barranco offers over 150 dishes, both local and international. Here, it’s no easy task deciding from among such a broad selection. I can recommend dipping into the seafood section and trying the typical shrimp omelette. Likewise the gourmet salmorejo stand, where you can taste the different varieties of this local speciality, and the cut ham stand… Tickets from €3.

Séptimo Wine Bar
Séptimo, because seven is a lucky number. And, Isabel and Floriant, the Hispano-French couple who run this locale, seem to have hit the jackpot. Some luck in it, of course, but you can’t detract from their job well done, driven as they are by a tireless passion, which you notice as soon as they start talking about a tuna fish in the kitchen with a sparkle in its eyes. Indeed, they have managed to continually fill to capacity their small, inviting premises ever since they first opened just over a year ago. Their offerings are gourmet tapas, “inspired by whatever”, accompanied by “whichever wine goes well”. That is how Isabel puts it and she adds, in the Sevillian accent we have grown to love, “we make our own style of tasty food”. Hats off to their duck pie, marinated tuna or tartare, the three dishes they rate as the star items on the menu and which are virtually always in stock, while the rest of the offerings are seasonal. Now, for instance, you can taste a marvellous sautéed artichoke with pumpkin, field mushrooms and presa ibérica (Iberian shoulder of pork), highly tender lamb nuggets in sweet potato sauce and the pièce de résistance – a milk torrija (French toast) served with a ball of ice-cream likely to make you shed more than one tear. Average ticket: €20 for two.

Perro Viejo – International Fusion
There just had to be a hipster sanctuary in Seville, and that is Perro Viejo. Located in the heart of the Andalusian capital and inaugurated just two years ago, this stunning, three-storey tapas bar features ultra-cool, ultra-modern, ultra-gorgeous interior design – everything is wood, iron and greenery, clearly inspired by an industrial aesthetic. Here, the tapas are a blend of tradition and international fusion (there are distinct Thai, Japanese and Peruvian influences in their cuisine), with the emphasis on new culinary trends, as evinced in their exquisite Japanese butterfish tataki, pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus) with migas, organic egg and Iberian broth, glazed pork dumplings with chilli vinaigrette, charcoaled papas bravas (spicy sautéed potatoes) and ceviche (lemon-and-garlic marinade). All of this livened up with a great wine list and, above all, spectacular cocktails. Average ticket: €40 for two.

Book your Vueling to Seville and gear up to savour the best gastrobars in town.

Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com