Each November San Sebastián hosts what for me is the best footrace on the national circuit, the Behobia-San Sebastián classic. It covers the 20 kilometres separating the Irunese town of Behobia on the French border from the capital. It is a veritable sports festival which this year chalked up its 51st edition, with some 30,000 runners signed up.

I took part in the race, but not on foot, as I chose to do it on skates. Indeed, it has a skating section and also features a Behobia Txiki version for children up to the age of 13. The latter takes place the day before the main event. There is also a much shortened version for teenagers from 14 to 18 years known as the Behobia Gaztea which covers the final 4.4 km of the main race. Lastly, organisers provide a Behobia for runners with disabilities; so, all in all, it caters for everyone. For the main event your physical preparation should be thorough and you must book your number and accommodation well in advance. The race itself includes continual climbs, so it can turn out to be really tough if you start out running above your rhythm.

More Than Just the Behobia-San Sebastián Classic

In my last London post I encouraged you to discover cities by running them. For an urban race in Donosti I would recommend the route of “the three beaches”. Starting at El Peine de los Vientos, Chillida’s sculpture at Ondarreta, you traverse the Paseo de La Concha as far as La Zurriola beach, crossing the Bulevar and the Kursaal bridge. The same route is also suitable for roller or inline skating.

But, apart from running through the city, San Sebastián also lends itself to interacting with its environment through such activities as these:

Surfing at La Zurriola. Zurriola beach, in the district of Gros, attracts foreigners all year around. The international atmosphere stems from the quality of its waves. There you will come across the friends of Pukas who have spent years promoting surfing in the Basque Country. They now also have a school in Barcelona. If you’re going to surf there for the first time, please place yourself in the hands of an instructor, as it is not an easy beach.

Kayaking and SUP at La Concha. You can hire equipment for kayaking and stand up paddling at the same facilities in Club Fortuna on La Concha beach. From there you can paddle carefully to the island of Santa Clara in Donosti’s old harbour. La Concha is noticeably calmer than La Zurriola and affords some spectacular views over the whole bay.

Swimming at La Concha. If you fancy open waters and have a wetsuit, you can extend your swimming season. La Concha is a calm beach, as long as you stay within the bay. There are changerooms with lockers where you can shower and leave your clothes. The lockers operate with a magnet key which is easy to wear while you are swimming.

Mountain biking or hiking in the monte Ulía.Anyone who has run the Behobia will recall (for better or for worse) the final climb known as the Alto de Miracruz, which comes after the final descent down Ategorrieta avenue. There, on the right, after passing the Arzak restaurant, is the climb up to Ulía. You can drive to the upper picnic area or walk up. The mountain is full of footpaths and tracks, so you can have a delightful time mountain biking, running or simply walking. At the very least, you will enjoy the views and the promenade leading to Pasajes de San Pedro and the Trintxerpe fishermen’s quarter.

If by chance the weather lets you down and you have to resort to indoor sport, you can use the gym at the Club Atlético San Sebastián for doing your gym routine (cycling, running, lifting) or, if you are looking for something different, go up to the Pabellón del Club Fortuna Pío Baroja to practise your skills on their climbing wall, using either a rope and safety harness (sports climb) or just climbing shoes. The hall is provided with safety mattresses for low-height climbing.

As you see, it is well worth coming to San Sebastián to do sport, even if you aren’t competing. However, if you have the urge to compete, take note of the following dates and events (in chronological order, after Behobia) and start booking your ticket at Vueling to enjoy them.

San Sebastián Marathon – end of November.
Lilatón – the first week in March, coinciding with International Women’s Day. The race is open only to women.
Onditz Memorial Triathlon – and women’s Triathlon in June.
La Concha Swim Crossing – in September.
Cross de las tres playas – in October.

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Iaona Manolache, Pello Sosoro

Copious meals at Picos de Europa

It’s not a secret that Picos de Europa is a great place to eat. Only in the area of Cabrales, over 40 types of cheese are prepared, being the region in Europe with a greater variety.

It was clear that, before we feast on great food, we needed to make some kind of effort, first. The most common route to follow in the area is at Cares, uphill at the beginning but nice and relaxed the rest of the way. Is almost like a baptism to trekking, much frequented on the weekends.

We opt to follow the route from Poncebos to Bulnes, an uphill and amusing where we meet mountain goats several times. Bulnes is a small village, the only place in Asturias that is not accessible by car. There are many houses here but most of them are bars, inns and restaurants where you can eat very well. We tried delicious fabes and other specialties from the province, like a pot of octopus and potatoes, the small chorizos with cider and the scorpion fish cake.

Trying the best fabada in the world (and a great cachopo)

By chance, right next to the hotel where we were staying in Villaviciosa there is Bedriñana cider bar, which was awarded in 2014 for the ‘best fabada in the world’. That is something very remarkable in Asturias!

The fabada, obviously, was delicious and, to top it off, as a second course we ordered a cachopo to share. Cachopo (or cachopu) is a very typical dish from Asturian cuisine, only suitable to resistant stomachs. It is made of two veal filets that can be filled with cheese, ham or other ingredients. Furthermore, wine plus a side dish of potatoes, pepper and mushrooms. The two of us couldn’t even finish the half of the dish.

Then is when we realised that you have to be very careful when you order a dish. If an Asturian waiter tells you that you’re not ordering enough, be prepared. A big feeding feast is awaiting you.

For the great seafood, go to Tazones

Close to Villaviciosa, Tazones has the essence of a fishermen town, with pretty cobblestone streets and low-lying houses with colourful balconies, and is the place to go to eat great seafood and fish. The choices and quality are immense, any of the restaurants in town is provided by local fisheries.

Delicious cocktails in Gijón

We took advantage of a quick visit to Gijón to try some cocktails at one of the most frequented places in town. Its name is Varsovia and can be located by San Lorenzo avenue, exactly at Cabrales, 18, in an iconic historical building with an interior of eclectic decoration and a great variety of furniture, from Chester sofas to old wooden furniture. The large windows provide the best views over Gijón beach.

The menu includes a great variety of cocktails, provided in an unbeatable atmosphere and with a great music selection to enjoy.

The cider: customs & practices

A different matter is cider, the Asturian drink by excellence, and how it must be served. Cider in Asturias usually costs no more than 3€ each bottle, with a dark green colour and usually purchased to be shared. It has low alcohol content so you can order many and still remain not too much drunk.

The technique to pour cider usually leads to funny moments, especially among beginners who waste more cider than what is served. It is necessary to pour the cider right in the border of the glass, to enhance the flavour and smell when it mixes with the oxygen from the glass. When the cider is served you should ask ¿quién bebe? (“who drinks?”) and the glass must be empty in one sip or two, not more. It can be considered impolite to keep the cider for too long in the glass, because it loses the properties.

If you are not good at pouring cider, you better ask the waiter to serve you a “culín” or “culete”. If you dare to pour it yourself, you should know that the stream should be as high as possible and break right at the border of the glass. You don’t want to shower the rest of the diners.

Why not take a trip to Asturias? Have a look at our flights here!

The Concurso de Tapas Picadillo is one of the most acclaimed in northern Spain. In A Coruña, the whole city gets involved, with a good many culinary establishments presenting their best creations. In some areas of the city, participants have come together in the form of group entries. Following is a rundown of some of the bites that surprised us most. As there were over 70 participants, we have made a selection of those located near the historic city centre. Although the contest is over, bear in mind you can still savour the tapas until 31 December, and you can look up this year’s winners on the competition website.

The Ciudad Vieja, Monte Alto, Zalaeta and Plaza de España Area

The earliest settlement in A Coruña is what is now known as Ciudad Vieja (Old City), an area which features monuments prior to the 19th century. This is the perfect place to stroll around, in the hushed atmosphere of its cobbled backstreets. The best place to start the route is hard by the San Carlos Gardens, at an establishment called A Boca do Lobo, where you can try the two special tapas that entered the competition. The first, creative offering is Galician octopus at 100°, seaweed coulis and liquid croquette with a pork crust. The other is the traditional roast Celtic pork dewlap and potatoes in their gravy. On the edge of the Ciudad Vieja lies the Plaza de María Pita, a complex of striking harmony arranged around a statue of a local heroine who fought against English corsairs. The square is surrounded by buildings with porticoes where some of the city’s main bars and restaurants are located. These include Breen’s Tavern, where you can enjoy a scrumptious cod-and-prawn brandade. Next door is El Ángel Café Bar (Plaza María Pita, 25) whose “Celtic pouches” were a surprising entry in the competition, while El Tequeño made a bold move with their creative, melgacho tapa based on small-spotted catshark tail.

The Barrera, La Marina, Galera, Estrella and Olmos Area

This is the nerve centre of A Coruña’s tapas bars, an area also known as La Pescadería, where the largest number of establishments is concentrated. The Calle Franxa, which runs from the Plaza de María Pita, is studded with seafood restaurants, Cuban and Turkish eateries, and a whole gamut of traditional tascas, beer gardens, jamonerías and wine cellars. The stretch leading from Ciudad Vieja to Los Cantones is another area crammed with bars and restaurants. However, the highest concentration of these is found along Calle Barrera, which boasts no less than thirteen contestants in the tapas competition. Like A Casa da Moura(Barrera, 9), with their delicious ovo da moura, or Alma Negra (Barrera, 13), with their creative mackerel taco, as well as a more traditional dish known as mar y montaña de tendones y callos de bacalao (“sea and mountains of tendons and cod tripe”). For us, however, pride of place goes to the stunning tartar de zamburiñas y aguacate sobre cama de brotes tiernos y brotes de col morada (“tartar of variegated scallop and avocado on a bed of tender bean sprouts and red cabbage shoots”), to be had at Tapa Negra. Calle Galera, which leads into Calle Olmos, is flanked by some of A Coruña’s classic tapas bars which have been handed down from one generation to the next.

The Alameda, Plaza de Galicia, Plaza de Vigo and Juan Flórez Area

Another large collection of tapas bars is grouped around the two aforementioned squares. This is the heart of the Ensanche quarter, an important shopping and business precinct, with a good many stores and offices, but also taverns and restaurants. It is part of the Picasso District, an area running from Juana de Vega to Plaza de Mina, named after the Malagan artist who lived and studied for a few years in this part of A Coruña. The streets Juan Flórez, Linares Rivas and Ramón de la Sagra also fall within its zone of influence.

We strolled through the area stretching from Los Cantones to the Parque de Santa Margarita; then along Juan Florez up to Avenida de Rubine, which leads to the Riazor football stadium. To start with, at Casa Martín, near the Plaza de Pontevedra, you should try the empanada de xoubas y grelos (pilchard and turnip top pie). Just one street away is El Huerto Los Cantones (Cantón Pequeño, 22) where, if you’re still feeling peckish – or you have just started out on the route – you will be well satisfied with the miniburguer de pez espada, tomate semiseco, espinaca fresca y salsa de almejas en pan de cereales (swordfish mini burger, semi-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach and clam sauce on wholemeal bread). Any better offer?

Don’t miss the chance to sink your teeth into the best, traditional-style, creative tapas currently to be had in A Coruña. Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Turismo A Coruña, Concurso de Tapas Picadillo

What better way to soak up the delights of the nature paradise that is Asturias than from its vantage points? Following is our selection of the ten best strategic points in the region affording the loveliest angles of that beautiful countryside. Take note!

1. La Regalina (Valdés)
Chosen by the Guía Repsol as “El Mejor Rincón de 2013” (The Best Spot of 2013), the hermitage of La Regalina in Cadavedo (Valdés) consists of the hermitage proper and two hórreos (a traditional granary raised on pillars). Here you can enjoy exceptional views of Ribeirona beach and the rest of the seaboard (designated a “Protected West Coast Landscape”) which you can photograph and share on social networks.

2. Cabo Vidio (Cudillero)
Located between Cudillero and Luarca, two picturesque fishing villages, lies Cape Vidio. This vantage points affords fabulous panoramic views of cliff faces, beaches and the sea, all of which come under the Protected West Coast Landscape designation. But, there’s more – at low tide you can see the Cueva de la Iglesiona, a sea cave carved out by the Cantabrian waves at the base of the cliff. It can be visited, as long as you do so in the company of a guide.

3. Mirador del Espíritu Santo (Muros del Nalón)
This lookout is part of the “ruta de los miradores” (route of the viewpoints), a 6-kilometre-long coastal path running from the former mining port of San Esteban de Pravia to Aguilar beach blessed with some spectacular panoramas. The viewpoint is reached after having passed San Esteban de Pravia and the access to the seawater pool on the banks of the river Nalón. One of its highlights is the view of the mouth of the Nalón, framed between the Playa de los Quebrantos and the Playón de Bayas.

4. Cape Peñas (Gozón)
Cape Peñas, located in Gozón (Protected Cape Peñas Landscape), in the northernmost area of Asturias, is one of the most popular spots in the region. Apart from hiking across the headland to soak up the excellent views of the cliffs, visitors can also drop in on the Centro de Recepción de Visitantes e Interpretación del Medio Marino de Peñas (Peñas Marine Environment Interpretation and Visitor Reception Centre), housed in the Peñas lighthouse.

5. Mirador de San Roque (Colunga)
The San Roque viewpoint is located In the vicinity of Lastres, the village where the popular Spanish television comedy drama, “Doctor Mateo”, was filmed. The vantage point affords magnificent panoramic vistas of a combination of sea and mountains, including the beaches of the so-called “Costa de los Dinosaurios” (Dinosaur Coast) – on account of the presence of fossilised dinosaur imprints – with the Sierra del Sueve and the Picos de Europa in the background. What more could you want?

6. Mirador del Fitu
Are you seeking a panoramic view combining both the Cantabrian Sea and the Picos de Europa? Then you should head for the Cruz de Llames pass, between Colunga and Arriondas, site of the Fitu observation platform with its characteristic concrete balcony. The views from here attest to the contrasting beauty of the Asturian landscape. And, while you’re at it, take a stroll towards Picu Pienzu where you can continue to enjoy the panoramic views.

7. Picos de Europa Viewpoints
The following viewpoints are sited in the Picos de Europa National Park. From there, you can observe the iconic Picu Urriellu, also known as Naranjo de Bulnes, in all its splendour, including the various nuances of colour it takes on at sunset. The viewpoints are Pozo de la Oración, in Poo de Cabrales; Pedro Udaondo, in Asiego, and Camarmeña, also in the municipality of Cabrales.

Other viewpoints worth seeking out in the Park are the ones near the Lagos de Covadonga, notably La Reina, Entrelagos and Ordiales. Any of these affords a sublime picture postcard view of the Picos de Europa.

8. Mirador de Torimbia (Llanes)
This viewpoint is on the so-called “Llanes de cine” route, which connects the various locations where films and television series have been shot. This lookout has an interesting touch – a director’s chair from which to contemplate the spectacular vistas. Located near Niembro, between the beaches of Torimbia and Toranda, a short walk from the lookout will lead you down to the Llanes beaches of San Antolín and Gulpiyuri.

9. Mirador del Picu (Ribadedeva)
Located on the eastern edge of Asturias is the Mirador del Picu, in Pimiango, with striking views of both the beautiful “Protected East Coast Landscape” and the Sierra del Cuera and Picos de Europa – Picu Uriellu is visible on a clear day from here. While you’re there, take the opportunity to visit El Pindal Cave, a World Heritage Site on account of its cave paintings, and then head for the hermitage of San Emeterio.

10. Urban Viewpoints
One way of viewing the cities of Asturias is from their vantage points. In Oviedo, be sure to head for the Mirador de Naranco, from where you can also visit two pre-Romanesque Asturian gems, Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, both World Heritage Sites. The best panoramic view of Avilés is from the Mirador de la Luz, where the city and estuary are the star sights. And, should you happen to be in Gijón, don’t miss out on the Cape San Lorenzo viewpoint, with a concrete silhouette resembling a ship’s keel from where you can see the town of Jovellanos and its beaches.

Text by Turismo Asturias