Discovering the Messner Mountain Museum
The province of Bolzano, also known as Alto Adige and South Tyrol, culturally half-Italian and half-Austrian, is home to one of Italy’s best known mountain ranges, the Dolomites. They make up a spectacular landscape in which valleys alternate with characteristically shaped mountains that seem to rake the sky. They also change colour with the passage of the sun, to the delight of visitors – during the day, they are white, while at dawn and dusk they take on a splendid reddish tinge. Le Corbusier himself was enthralled with their magic and called the Dolomites “the most beautiful architectural work on earth”. Protected by seven parks, they were listed as a World Heritage Site in 2009.
The Dolomites provide the perfect backdrop for doing open-air sport like skiing or climbing and are also an ideal arena for enthusiasts of nature watching or those in search of inspiration. You are most likely to find inspiration in the Messner Mountain Museum, a network ofsix museums located in unique spots in the South Tyrol.They are themed around mountaineering, rock climbing and the culture of mountain dwellers.
The figure behind such a special museum concept as this – intimately linked to nature – is the unique, exceptional Italian, Reinhold Messner. Considered one of the best climbers of all time, his track record includes scaling all fourteen eight-thousands without oxygen. In 1978, Messner and his Austrian companion Peter Habeler were the first mountaineers to conquer Everest without supplemental oxygen. This heralded the start of a long career in summiting. In 1991, Messner’s intrepidness and thirst for new experiences led him to take part in the first expedition to cross Antarctica without outside support.
He currently leads a tranquil life centred around writing and the Messner Mountain Museum, an original collection of museums made up of the following spaces:
MMM Corones. Situated on the summit of Kronplatz, the story of mountaineering unfolds here. Designed by the architect Zaha Hadid, the museum was carved out of the mountainside. All that is visible from the outside is the three-pronged observation platform on the summit, with stunning views of Mt Peitlerkofel, Mt Heiligkreuzkofel, Ortler and the South Tyrol.
MMM Firmian. Near Bolzano stands Sigmundskron Castle, home to this museum themed around the relationship between man and the mountain. It is worth visiting it if only for its views of the Alps and the Dolomites.
MMM Dolomites. Also known as the “Museum in the Clouds”, it is located in an old bunker from the First World War on the 2,181-metre-high summit of Mt Rite, between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The museum is devoted to rock climbing, and conceptualised as a tribute to the Dolomites and everyone who has climbed them.
MMM Juval. Located in Juval Castle, it is dedicated to the “magic of the mountain”. The interior houses an exhibition of artworks featuring a Tibetan collection and masks from the five continents. The museum can only be visited as a guided tour, while in July and August it is closed, as it is the summer residence of the Messner family.
MMM Ripa. Another castle – in this instance, Bruneck Castle – houses this museum dedicated to mountain cultures. Not for nothing is the name of this space derived from the Tibetan words ri (mountain) and pa (man).
MMM Ortles. In the village of Solda, this simple stone building is half buried underground, with pasture thatch forming the rooftop of this unusual museum. The central theme is the world of ice and the subjects of skiing, ice-climbing and expeditions to the Poles.
Now that you have the keys to some of the marvels awaiting you in the South Tyrol, all that’s left is to book your Vueling to Verona – about an hour and a half’s drive from Bolzano – and discover it for yourself.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Messner Mountain Museum and Zaha Hadid Architects (© Inexhibit)
more infoThe Picturesque Villages of Lake Garda
Lake Garda, situated in the north of Italy between Lombardy and Veneto, is the perfect destination for those seeking a balance between nature, historical heritage and gastronomy. It is also the ideal spot for trekking, mountaineering, cycling, sailing and windsurfing. Here, then, is our selection of the prettiest villages in the area. See which ones catch your fancy.
Desenzano del Garda – Gateway to the Lake
Desenzano del Garda is the largest town around Lake Garda. Located on the south side, it is the prime entry point to the lake. The old town is a delight to stroll through and the atmosphere there is amazing, particularly at dusk. A must-see landmark is the Cathedral of St Mary Magdalene, where you can contemplate Tiepolo’s The Last Supper, and the Villa Romana, located on the Via Crocifisso, which features some standout mosaics.
Sirmione – the Pretty Girl
Situated on a narrow peninsula on the south side of Garda, Sirmione is undoubtedly the prettiest town in the area and, consequently, the most touristy. As soon as you catch sight of its old town and its fantastic medieval castle – with a drawbridge included – you will realise why it is so popular and succumb to its charms. Noteworthy, too, are the ruins of an ancient Roman villa known as Grotte di Catullo (Grottoes of Catullus). Despite having nothing to do with a cave, or having ever hosted Catullus in its grounds, it features some excellent, well-preserved frescoes and the views from its olive grove are stunning.
Malcesine – the Shore Lined with Olive Groves
This small town, which is famous for its olive oil, was immortalised by Gustav Klimt en 1913. A prominent landmark is medieval Scaligero Castle which towers over the surrounding houses and has a room dedicated to Goethe. The latter devoted a few lines to Malcesine in his Journey to Italy.It is well worth taking the cableway which runs up to a height of 1760 metres where you can get magnificent views over the lake.
Gardone Riviera – An Elegant Town On the Lake
Its 19th-century villas in Art Deco style and its spectacular gardens make this the most elegant town on Lake Garda. The most prominent feature is the Vittoriale degli Italiani, an unusual and sumptuous estate made up of several buildings, a theatre, gardens and waterways, the work of the poet, Gabriele D’Annunzio and the architect, Giancarlo Maroni. The other must-visit spot is the André Heller Foundation Botanical Gardens which has around 500 plant species.
Riva del Garda – For the Sporting Crowd
This town, set on the northern edge of the lake, against a backdrop of mountains, is ideal for sports enthusiasts. It is the starting point for hikes and cycle tours to Mt Rocchetta and also hosts such watersports as sailing and windsurfing.
Book your Vueling to Verona, which lies just 45 kilometres from Lake Garda, and enjoy yourself sightseeing its shores.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Elin B, Marcos Dione, Edoardo Costa, Edwin van Buuringen, Tony Hisgett, Ross Elliott
more infoGreeting the Spring with Prosecco
Prosecco is one of the most popular beverages in the Veneto region, where any excuse is good to uncork a bottle, taste it and toast with it. This wonderful sparkling white wine, which tends to range from dry to extra dry, is produced mainly in the province of Treviso, very near one of the region’s most touristic cities – Venice.
This kind of wine is made from the Glera grape variety, formerly known as Prosecco, hence the name. The largest and best known producers of Prosecco are the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, situated in the north of Treviso province.
Being white and sparkling, it often tends to be compared to champagne, for which it is used as a substitute in Italy. However, there are many differences between them. Champagne ferments in the bottle and can last a long time, while Prosecco should be drunk as soon as possible and preferably within two years. For those of you who like cocktails, the name Prosecco must surely ring a bell, as it is the main ingredient in a cocktail prepared with peach called Bellini which, incidentally, first saw the light in Venice.
The Prosecco Spring
For the last 21 years this fantastic sparkling wine has been celebrated in the province of Treviso in what is known as the Primavera del Prosecco (Prosecco Spring). This year the event will be extended until 12 June and is scheduled to be packed with activities, including visits to wine cellars, wine tasting sessions, contests involving dishes made with Prosecco, photo competitions and cultural tours of the province. The programme also features sporting events, notably cycling routes through the area and walks among the vineyards.
One of the major spin-off advantages of visiting Treviso for this long celebration is that the landscape will be carpeted in all its finery at the time, with the countryside taking on deep green hues and temperatures rising to pleasant levels – the perfect time for enjoying nature. The best views are to be had from Monte Grappa, well known for the battles that were fought there during both World Wars. It is also very popular among mountain bikers. Another lofty vantage point for soaking up the scenery is Monte Cesen. Hikers who enjoy wandering through forests should head for the Cansiglio, Italy’s second largest forest where red deer roam through their ideal habitat of beech and fir trees.
The area is also well suited to enthusiasts of agritourism, with a large number of dedicated facilities available. One such facility is La Dolza, located in the village of Follina, where visitors can immerse themselves in the old farming traditions of the area. Another is Le Noci, an old farmhouse where you can get back to nature and taste the local cuisine.
And, since you’re in Italy, local cuisine is of course one of the standout features in the area, with a large number of restaurants to choose from. We highly recommend Locanda Sandi, a restaurant associated with the Villa Sandi wine cellar and set in magical surroundings, and Ristorante Tipico Conegliano Per Di Perenzin, located in San Pietro di Feletto, where the speciality is cheeses.
Take your Vueling to Venice, tour this beautiful region and treat yourself to its stellar wine – Prosecco!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Primavera del Prosecco
more info5 Gastro Essentials in San Sebastián
You would be hard put not to fall in love with San Sebastián and its people, its streets, its beaches. And, if you happen to be a foodie, there’s no way you could resist its charms. Their meticulous sourcing of local produce is tangible, they handle meat and fish like nobody else and they boast an irresistible culture of pintxos.
Being a city with good food and an amazing culinary array ingrained in its DNA, it’s always useful to have a list of favourites handy when embarking on an escape to the capital of Guipúzcoa. Here, then, is our top five:
The Best Pintxos… at Zazpi
That’s what we say, from experience, backed up by them twice having won the Guipúzcoa pintxos champions award. In the kitchen, young chef Paul Arrillaga shows his craftsmanship over the fires. Spirited and with a clear idea of what he wants, he turns out creative offerings without masking the quality product. Zazpi has the advantage of not being located in the much-trumpeted “Parte Vieja” (Old Town), while their tables and bar counter are filled each day with bites that will leave a smile on your face. Their latest award-winning pintxo is asparagus with egg yolk and asparagus heart. Other dishes that come highly recommended are the txipis (squid-ink calamari), vichyssoise with foie gras and caviar, stewed pig’s ear and glazed cheek of pork.
The Best Txuleta… at Casa Urola
A historic restaurant in San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja which never fails to please. Revamped traditional cuisine and top-notch product crafted by chef Pablo Loureiro Rodil, who pampers the seasonal fare and runs a grillroom which is unique in the city. Their awesome txuleta (pork chops) are rivalled by such great dishes as sauteed country beans, potato froth, codfish flakes and olive oil, tempered oyster in Iberian cheek of pork, cream of cauliflower, prawn soup and lemon zest oil, and hake fillet with cheek of hake and clams.
The Best Omelette… at Nestor
One at 1 p.m. and another at 8 p.m. – two omelettes a day for the lucky ones who sign on to Nestor’s “delivery list” (not reservation list), which opens an hour in advance. It is well worth the treasure hunt to be able to sink your teeth into an omelette like nothing you might have tried before. They have just enough onion, pepper and potato to allow the egg to jiggle and fall juicily onto the plate.
The Best Cheesecake… at La Viña
A classic – La Viña’s cheesecake, the “sweet pintxo” to mark the final flourish of a pintxo-hopping morning. We’ve tried it and can safely say it lives up to its reputation. Golden-brown on the outside, smooth and creamy on the inside; you really must taste it if you regard yourself as a genuine cheesecake lover. And, speaking of cheesecakes, be lenient on yourself and head some 10 kilometres out of San Sebastián to one of the leading restaurants in the area, Zuberoa, in Oiartzun – their cheesecake is simply divine!
The Best Cocktails… A Dry María Cristina
We wind up our tour of surefire San Sebastián offerings with the best drink in town. Bearing the seal of Javier de las Muelas and served up in an amazing setting, the cocktails at Dry are a true experience. Martinis, classic-style mixes and avant-garde creations await you in their legendary María Cristina. The perfect excuse to set foot in this historic hotel and swoon in the unique atmosphere.
Book your Vueling to San Sebastián and gear up to explore the gastro side of Guipúzcoa’s capital.
Text by Silvia Artaza of Gastronomistas.com
Photos by Silvia Artaza and establishments
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