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Carcassonne Medieval Inspiration

Set in the middle of a triangle comprising the cities of Toulouse, Montpellier and Barcelona is this spectacular walled city, a captivating sight for all who visit it. Fittingly, it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997. It is one of the leading tourist magnets in the Languedoc region and the whole of France, attracting around 4 million visitors each year. Here are the reasons why Carcassonne has become a must-visit destination.

Important Strategic Enclave

The city’s strategic location, set as it is on a hillside overlooking the Aude river valley, made it the perfect vantage point for surveilling such important routes as the one linking the Iberian Peninsula to the rest of Europe, and the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Thus, Carcassonne became a key city for centuries. In Roman times it was already an important trading post and was coveted by Gauls, Romans – who built the first walled fortifications – Visigoths and Moors, until it ended up becoming a French royal army garrison.

A Walk Through the Cité

Vestiges of that illustrious past as a strategic bulwark can be seen in the upper city of Carcassonne, now known as the Cité, site of the old walled fortifications. Sightseers touring the interior of this huge walled precinct are immediately transported to a bygone era. The Cité is fortified by two concentric walls – the innermost ring was erected in the times of the Gauls, Romans and Visigoths, while the outer, far sturdier ring with four towers was added from the 13th century onwards. Once inside, visitors are encouraged to stroll through the city streets and soak up the medieval atmosphere that pervades the complex. The major landmarks here are the Château Comtal (Castle of the Counts), in the west of the fortified city and attached to the wall, and the Romanesque Basilica of Saint-Nazaire. Be sure to also visit the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) which crosses the Canal du Midi and links the Cité to the lower part of Carcassonne.

Some Extras On the Way

The counterpoint to this journey into the past, which takes you through the streets of medieval Carcassonne, finds its ideal complement in a culinary break in one of the restaurants you will come across on your tour. Treat yourself to a good glass of wine, preferably Corbieres, the local Designation of Origin, accompanied by duck confit or cassoulet (a local bean stew). The best way to round off your visit to this city.

Viollet-le-Duc – The Other Great Protagonist of Carcassonne

Much of Carcassonne’s appeal revolves around the figure of French architect, archaeologist and writer, Viollet-le-Duc and the “restoration”, as unique as it was controversial, which he carried out on the Cité in the mid-19th century. The fact is that, following the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659,  the fortified precinct of Carcassonne was abandoned altogether and gradually deteriorated with the implacable passage of time. Indeed, it was so derelict that some voices called for its wholesale destruction. However, by popular request, it was earmarked for refurbishment, a task which was commissioned to one of the leading figures of the moment, Viollet-le-Duc.

Rather than what would now be considered a refurbishment, visitors currently find themselves before a full-blown reconstruction of the old city, including the odd flourish of a Romantic bent added by Viollet-le-Duc himself. He actually applied what was very much in vogue in restoration work at the time, although his endeavours have subsequently drawn considerable criticism from the experts. However, the result admittedly hangs together rather well and achieves the effect of immersing the visitor in a medieval past which the architect purposely set out to reinterpret.

Book your Vueling to Toulouse, which lies less than 100 kilometres from Carcassonne, and travel back in time behind the walls of that wonderful fortified precinct in Languedoc.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Tournasol7

 

 

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5 Outings Near Nantes

An old port enclave on the banks of the river Loire, Nantes is now best known as Jules Verne’s hometown. It is one of those cities that always lives up to visitors’ expectations. So, too, does the following selection of places located in the vicinity of Brittany’s erstwhile capital, where you will get the chance to visit unique spots, have a whale of a time in the theme parks and explore villages redolent with history. Up for the adventure?

Marais Poitevin
Covering an area of 100,000 hectares and known as “The Green Venice”, the Marais Poitevin is a marshland traversed by the Sèvre Niortaise river before it flows into the Atlantic. It combines areas of dry marsh drained by man and wet marsh, part of which is channelled into navigable canals. Be sure to head for Arçais and Coulon, two of the most prominent communes in the area, where you can hire a boat or kayak to glide along the marsh waters. Or, if you prefer, you can hire a bike and ride along the bicycle paths criss-crossing this land, a natural gem situated just over an hour and a half from Nantes. Don’t miss out on it!

La Rochelle
From the 14th to the 17th century, La Rochelle was one of the leading ports in France and the point of departure for French settlers heading for Canada. Situated just two hours from Nantes, the first thing that strikes visitors to the city are its fortified towers, a throwback to a past marked by war. The Chain Tower and Saint Nicolas Tower once protected the old harbour; the Tower of the Lantern had the function of lighting it up and acting as a beacon for ships, while the Gothic Grosse Horloge or Clock Tower was the gateway into the old city. Another unusual feature of La Rochelle is that a large number of its buildings are made of limestone, prompting it to become known as the Ville Blanche or White City.

Ré Island
A 12-kilometre-long toll bridge joins La Rochelle to what is possibly one of the most picturesque spots on France’s west coast – Ré Island. Measuring 30 by 5 kilometres, the island is home to salt marshes, beaches, vineyards, bird-watching observatories and villages of irresistible charm and is blessed with a mild, pleasant climate for the area. The best way of exploring this fantastic island is by bicycle and, if you can afford to get here off season, you will avoid the crowds and the accommodation crunch (the drawback of any destination which is both beautiful and popular).

Poitiers
Poitiers, which lies about two and a half hours from Nantes, is a city charged with history which you should make a point of visiting. It was founded by a Celtic tribe known as the Pictones and built up by the Romans in the first century AD, later to become an important site in medieval times. Known for its host of churches, which are open to the public, the Church of Notre-Dame la Grande is among the most outstanding, featuring original, 12th-century frescoes in its interior. The best way to tour this city is by strolling through the streets in the old town, where you are bound to get carried away by the medieval atmosphere.

Futuroscope
This popular theme park lies just 10 kilometres north of Poitiers, with attractions based on cutting-edge cinema, audiovisual and robotic technologies. Your time at Futuroscope is sure to provide lots of entertainment and new sensations, and both adults and children will have fun here.

Book your Vueling to Nantes and get ready to enjoy these five locations in the city’s environs.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by TwoWings, Flavio Ensiki, Eric Pouhier, Erwan Deverre, Hamon jp

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Avignon is Culture, Its Bridge Notwithstanding

No bridge seems to be as famous as the one in Avignon, the central theme of one of the best known children’s songs in France. Indeed, it has been sung in virtually all languages – local guides can even sing it in Japanese – so it comes as no surprise that anyone arriving at the battered Pont Saint-Bénézet is likely to sing the song or even dance it. This structure, twice destroyed by flooding along the Rhone, has become an icon of this Provençal city and its ambassador par excellence, earning it universal fame.

Apart from its bridge, Avignon, which is just an hour’s drive from Marseille, is a historic city, having once been the capital of Christendom and the centrepiece in one of the major schisms in the Catholic Church. Dating from that period is the formidable Papal Palace, the largest known Gothic palace. In the 14th century it witnessed a cultural and economic Renaissance that saw the arrival of bankers, artists and writers from all over Europe in a quest to be near the papal orbit – Petrarch was one of them.

But, it was not until five centuries later that Avignon again became a beacon of intellectual activity.  1947 saw the birth of the Avignon Festival, France’s longest-standing and most celebrated event devoted to theatre and the scenic arts and one of the most firmly rooted festivals in Europe. This year it runs into its 70th edition and will be held from 6 to 24 July at more than 30 venues.

A turning point in the Festival’s schedule of events came in the year 2000 when Avignon was designated the European Capital of Culture. Then ensued a cultural revival in this, the major population centre in the department of Vaucluse – set in the new region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur – as attested by the opening of the Lambert Collection – Museum of Contemporary Art, set up in 2000 around a historic endowment by the merchant and collector, Yvon Lambert. The endowment is admirable and comprehensive and features permanent exhibitions showcasing the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Sol LeWitt, Douglas Gordon and the ever-controversial photographer, Andrés Serrano, among other artists, as well as numerous temporary exhibitions.

Avignon has ten museums in all, prominent among them being the Musée du Petit Palais, with a large collection of medieval painting, the Calvet Museum, the Musée Angladon, dedicated to Impressionism, and the Musée Louis-Vouland, which specialises in the decorative arts. There is also an opera theatre, an exhibition park and some unique facilities like La FabricA, a theatre factory where various companies rehearse their performances in the run-up to the Avignon Festival.

Art is also present in Les Halles Market, endowed with a stunning vertical garden created by the artist, Patrick Blanc. This market is the ideal spot for buying fresh produce and Provençal specialities at one of their forty plus stores.

It would be amiss to end this article without recommending some of the venues for eating the tastiest food in Avignon. One is Maison de Fogasses, a splendid town palace which offers an exquisite menu of the day for around 20 euros based on locally sourced products. Another is LE 46 which specialises in French cuisine with Mediterranean flourishes.

Avignon is the perfect destination for a getaway from Marseille. Check out your flights to Marseille here.

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by Tus Destinos, Avignon-Tourisme (C.Rodde)

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Les Calanques A Jewel on the Cusp of Marseille

The Marseillais are fortunate. Although they inhabit the second most populated city in France – after Paris – with all that entails, right on their doorstep they have a haven of peace in the form of a nature reserve which can be negotiated on foot or by kayak, and where they can swim and splash about in summer. Living with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet does have its advantages.

The spot we are referring to and which we recommend touring and experiencing first-hand is the magnificent Parc national des Calanques. This nature reserve starts at the port of Pointe Rouge, south of Marseille, and stretches for 20 kilometres along the Mediterranean coast, up to the small fishing port of Cassis. But, what secret does this area hold in store?

Les Calanques is an area of granite and limestone buttresses jutting into the sea and forming a winding coastline with deep inlets and numerous cliffs, between which nestle various coves or calanques, which the reserve takes its name from. Some of these coves can only be reached by sea. The turquoise blue of the sea strikes a marked contrast with the arid terrain, with little (stunted) or no vegetation, the result of the warm Mediterranean climate and the properties of the local soil.

Visitors to Les Calanques will enter a magnificent area, conducive to hiking in search of the picturesque coves. They will also find the perfect spot for rock climbing as it is teeming with cliff faces where the more adventurous can try out their skills on the sheer walls.

Things get even more interesting, as this nature reserve also extends out to sea, where the biodiversity lies in its waters, featuring a large number of different species. It is thus a very attractive destination for divers, too.

What to Bear In Mind When Visiting

When planning an excursion to Les Calanques, take into consideration that the area is protected, which means access is limited at different stages in the year. Summer is when it is at its most vulnerable, owing to fire hazards, so that motor vehicles are banned from the area in this season and even access on foot is controlled. So, if you are unable to visit the park in spring or autumn, the best time of year to venture into it, take into account that you have to pay to park your car and then walk in the summer sun. Remember to use sturdy footwear and to take a hat and a good water supply.

Of the many coves you will come across in this stretch of coastline, the most popular ones are Calanque de Port-Miou, Port-Pin, the Calanque d’En-Vau and Morgiou. These are closest to the town of Cassis and can be reached in the course of a pleasant walk along the coast. The larger Calanque de Sormiou is also among the most popular coves.

Be sure to also make a point of visiting Cassis and its picturesque harbour, characterised by its fishing boats and colourful houses. Painters of the calibre of Signac and Derain were understandably captivated by the light and colour of this town.

Don’t miss your own adventure to this magnificent corner of the Mediterranean – book your Vueling to Marseille here.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Amanda Snyder, Thomas Barthelet, maarjaara

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