Seville’s Unique Flavour
By Belén Parra from gastronomistas
Seville’s unique character will hit you as soon as you arrive. Or when you hear that melody; the one you just know will stay with you on your journey, like a memory. Seville is replete with singular colours, aromas and flavours. It is exalting and magical, and pure art. It is all consuming and prevailing. From pre-dinner drinks then onto tapas and the marcha that lasts well into the night. From the small plates of russian salad and patatas bravas in between glasses of rebujito (sherry and soda), cold beer and red wine. And lets not forget the music and dance of flamenco and the sheer joy of the locals who, in a short time, will have you clapping your hands right along with them. Seville makes you forget yourself and gives meaning to life, because in the capital of Andalucía enjoyment is obligatory. Lose yourself in its small streets, landmark monuments, hidden corners and best tables. Whether you are here for a few days or a long stay, experience Seville with a passion.
WHERE TO EAT:
Tradevo. This gastro-tavern is a city institution – as much for locals who appreciate great cuisine as the city’s chefs who come to chew over their trade. The menu fuses tradition and modernity in reasonably priced ‘small plates’ of generous servings and beautiful presentation. Although Travedo is situated out of the tourist zone, it can be hard to get a table (or even a stool at the bar). The salmorejo (a thicker, creamier gazpacho) is to die for, as are daily specials and rice dishes.
Plaza Pintor Amalio García del Moral, 2.
La Pepona Tapas. Situated in the city centre, La Pepona Tapas excels in using local produce in dishes that hail from other parts of the country. It is one of the few places that understand the importance of a good aperitif. Its bodega boasts a fantastic wine selection (especially varieties from Jerez) that can be enjoyed by the glass or half glass – making it a good place to taste local vinos.
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 1.
La Fábrica. La Fábrica belongs to the same groups as Besana Tapas – the ‘tapas temple’ situated in Utrea, a few kilometres from Seville. Located in the buzzing neighbourhood of Alameda, epicentre of the city’s nightlife, it offers non-stop gourmet sandwiches, from breakfast to supper.
Correduría, 1.
Ena. Ena is a new ‘gastro space’ inside the imposing Hotel Alfonso XIII. Having fallen in love with Seville, Carles Abellán from Catalonia has taken on the role of executive chef. For the menu, he has reinterpreted some classic Andalucian dishes and incorporated some of his own famous tapas creations, such as spicy patatas bravas and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches infused with truffle oil. On top of offering an unbeatable setting, Ena has some of the best bartenders in the country. (A cocktail, either pre or post dinner, is imperative). Leave room for the ‘solid’ sangria or another of Abellán’s amusing desserts. Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.
La Mojigata. A simple, unassuming place where food takes prime place. The tapas changes daily according to produce available in the market, yet always surprises with artful combinations and presentation. The wine list has been carefully edited by the president of the Sommeliers Association of Andalucía.
Moratín, 15.
WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK:
Eme. With views of the Cathedral and the Giralda, the terrace of this hotel is the place to see and be seen. Smart casual dress and atmosphere.
Alemanes, 27.
Inglaterra. Another hotel that stands out on the Plaza Nueva. Go to the top floor to enjoy wide views over a long drink. The chilled out Inglaterra is the perfect place toescape the heat and the city rush.
Plaza Nueva, 7.
Las Casas del Rey de Baeza. Stroll through the historic city centre to this hotel, run by the Hospes Group, on the Plaza de la Redención. Converted from a series of period mansions, it has retained a rustic air and affords a calm ambiance that invites lingering. The patio is the best place to order a glass of wine accompanied by some delicious croquettes prepared by the Azahar restaurant. Or head up to the roof with its swimming pool and cocktail bar.
Plaza Jesús de la Redención, 2.
Bar Americano. We like its cocktail list, or more precisely, its selection of Cócteles de Cine that have been inspired by films shot in Seville. Bar Americano is a distinguished spot. Sophisticated and serene, it was instilled inside the Alfonso XIII during its most recent (and ambitious) renovation. It is perfect for a relaxed drink over conversation.
Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.
WHERE TO SLEEP:
BarcelóRenacimiento.
Avda. Álvaro Alonso Barba, S/N.
Modern, functional and with all the services you could ever need; the Barceló Renacimientois a five star worth its salt for those who want everything at their fingertips. Situated a few steps from the Isla Mágica fun park, the Guadalquivir River and y La Alameda, its impressive installations include an open air swimming pool. Made to order breakfasts, free wifi, spacious rooms, various leisure and business areas, gardens and singular architecture present an enticing package.
WHERE TO HAVE A FOODIE TREAT:
A crema sevillana ice cream from the artisan ice-cream makers La Fiorentina.
Zaragoza, 16.
A brioche, butter or anchovy bread from Pan y Più, a traditional bakery with French and Italian influences
Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro.
Rosquillas, pain au chocolat, or cream cake (pastel de nata) at La Dulcería de Manu Jara.
Pureza, 5.
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Travel to Japan without leaving Europe
Did you know that Little Tokyo district of Düsseldorf is certainly the closest you can get to Japan without leaving Europe?
Since the 50s the Japanese settled in Düsseldorf for supplies of materials and machinery for rebuilding their country after World War II. Today, with more than 450 Japanese companies and 11,000 people, it is the third largest Japanese community in Europe. This has made the city a must-visit destination for all lovers of Japanese culture and cuisine.
If you feel like making a quantum leap and landing in Japan without leaving Europe I suggest the following gastronomic route. As an anecdote I will tell you that in all places I can deal with Japanese without having to use English or German, and for a moment I forget that I was in Germany.
Immermannstrasse 41
Located at the heart of Little Tokyo, this superior 4 star hotel belongs to a prestigious Japanese hotel group. The Torii Bar in the hotel lobby is now a classic as a meeting point for the Japanese community in the city, because in the same building it is located the German-Japanese Centre. In the hotel itself is also found Benkay Restaurant, highly acclaimed by all as the best teppanyaki in town, and the sushi bar Fish Corner run by the cheff Hisato Mochizuki. It is to highlight a careful selection of sakes, where you can staste such delights as Dassai 23, the more refined sake that is produced, or Shimeharitsuru “Jun” of Niigata prefecture .
Takumi Takumi and 2nd
Immermannstrasse 28
Just opposite Nikko Hotel is located Takumi, a unique ramen bar where you can try 100% vegetarian ramen broth noodles. Possibly it is one of the only places in the world where you can taste ramen sitting on a terrace. A few meters away it is Takumi 2nd (Ostrasse 51), from the same owners, where you can also try tonkotsu miso ramen made with pork broth and miso or their delicious homemade gyoza dumplings.
Ostrasse 55
Another ramen bar, with a far more extensive menu where you should not miss Chashu Tokusei miso ramen or ramen “de lux” with miso and marinated pork slices. To round it up, you can ask them to add some wantan in the same bowl. Other curiosities include Chanpon, a bowl of noodles with crispy vegetables, typical of Nagasaki, or Tantan Men, spicy noodles that you must taste. On the opposite sidewalk is Naniwa Sushi & More, which, as its name suggests, you can order sushi and some other dish.
Klosterstrasse 70
A simple restaurant, where many Japanese families get together to eat all kinds of authentic dishes such as Takosu or viengar-seasoned octopus; beef tongue grilled or Gyutan, a typical dish from Sendai; tebasaki fried chicken wings, or Kushikatsu breaded kebabs, very typical dish in Japanese taverns because it is very easy to share, where the kebabs are immersed in a communal tonkatsu sauce jar. Unwritten rule is that you may only dip once into the sauce before a bite.
Nagomi
Bismarckstrasse 53
I must confess I do not have time to try this establishment but I was totally delighted by its spacious sushi bar made of wood and its design. Definitive proof was it was full of Japanese customers. Later on, the Bon owners, a Japanese bookstore located at Marienstrasse 41, confirmed it was one of the latest restaurants they just opened in the neighborhood and it was a very successful one. Another place I reserved for my next visit was Kagaya tavern (Potsdamer 60), an authentic izakaya where you can taste some of the best sakes with a ramen bowl or some other dish.
Nagaya
Klosterstrasse 42
The only Japanese restaurant with a Michelin star in Germany. The Japanese cuisine in combination with traditional European dishes and sushi are a must for all of these who consider themselves a gourmet. A few meters away is Soba-an (Klosterstrasse 68), run by Reiko Miyashita and her husband, who makes her own handmade soba noodles. An alternative to fast food that should not be missed.
If you are still hungry and you want to take a piece of Japan in your hand luggage, you can approach Shochiku supermarket (Immermannstrasse 15), where you will find all kind of tools and products such as sauces, dressings, Japanese curries and even a fish market where they prepare specific fish pieces to make sushi at home.
By Roger Ortuño
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Manchester Hunting For Vinyl
Manchester is one of the most highly industrialised cities in the United Kingdom, but also one of the most culturally alive. Particularly in terms of music – this is the cradle of punk, and of the groups that were spawned thereafter, notably Joy Division, New Order, The Smiths, The Stone Roses and Oasis, young bands eager to forge a better future, far removed from the industrial assembly lines. The fact is that this musical tradition also generated an extensive network of record shops, scattered across the city centre, stores which are still very much alive and kicking.
The good thing about Manchester is that, being a comparatively small city, roughly the size of Barcelona, it doesn’t take long to get from one end of it to the other. So, if you’re thinking of going there, while you’re visiting the stores we recommend in search of that record you are missing from a collection, or simply just browsing and getting your fingers grubby, you will also have time to wander through the area where the legendary disco, The Haçienda, was located, as well as the Museum – of Science and Industry, of course. So, let’s get started with those five temples of vinyl:
Empire Exchange
Rather than a store, this is more of a basement warehouse where you can wander about and breathe in dust, in search of that record by The Beatles or The Rolling Stones you need to round off your collection. Empire Exchange is acclaimed for having one of the most comprehensive selections of seven singles in England. Indeed, they stock records released from 1930 onwards. This temple of rare vinyls is located in the city centre, specifically, on Newton Street.
Piccadilly Records
Situated in the heart of Manchester, on such a venerable precinct as Oldham Street, you will feel like just another Mancunian when you stroll along it. Piccadilly Records specialises in rare albums which are hard to come by, but also in new releases of independent pop and rock and reissues of classics. Incidentally, the store is very near Piccadilly Gardens, one of the city’s loveliest green areas. It is ideally placed for visiting afterwards and having an impromptu picnic.
Clampdown Records
A small but charming shop which packs a punch, and its vintage appearance endows it with a special status. Here you will find an exquisite selection of used vinyls (especially punk and new wave) and, if you’re game for getting your fingers dirty, you can pick up some gems at a great price. Clampdown Records is on Paton Street, next door to Manchester’s old town. The area has a generous sprinkling of restaurants where you can grab a weekend brunch.
Vinyl Resting Place
Like Clampdown Records, this is also a small store which has maximised available space to a tee. It is on the third floor of Afflecks Palace, right in the centre of Manchester and near both Piccadilly Records and Empire Exchange. So, all you need is a good pair of trainers with air pockets to wander about and fit in. Vinyl Resting Place stocks a good collection of used vinyls, which range from reasonably-priced records to rare releases which will cost you an arm and a leg if you bite the bait. You’ve been warned!
Soundwaves Here We Come
This is the ideal spot for winding up your tour, as the store is also located in Afflecks Palace, just one floor down from Vinyl Resting Place – you just have to slide down the stairs to get there. The list of used vinyls at Soundwaves Here We Come encompasses virtually all styles. What’s more, if you’re lucky, you may catch some group playing live, as the store owners organise regular concerts to promote the city’s upcoming bands. Who knows – you may even be fortunate enough to cross paths withThe Stone Roses!
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Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Marc Wathleu
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5 Essential Ideas for Madrid In Autumn
It never fails! In recent years, for one reason or another, I always seem to end up travelling to Madrid in autumn and the outcome has always been equally rewarding. The temperature is still pleasant for outdoor activities and, should the weather let you down, there is always a host of options to get you out of the rain and cold, with some incentives included. While this might sound overblown, the fact is that this city offers loads of ways of having a great time, leaving virtually no room for brooding. Here, then, are my basic recommendations for autumn in Madrid:
1. Go and see the leaves falling in one of the city’s numerous parks
Madrid has lots of parks where you can enjoy the good weather as it comes to a close, delighting in the scent of dry leaves and relishing the odd sunset. Among the great classics is El Retiro where, in addition to setting out in search of the popular statue known as the Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel), you can do sport, try to avoid getting wet in the Estanque Grande (Big Pond), see an exhibition at either the Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) or the Velázquez Palace, or even buy a book on the Cuesta de Moyano before going into the park. And all this just a stone’s throw from the city centre.
The Casa de Campo, Madrid’s great lung, is another good option. Apart from expanses where you can get some brisk exercise while enjoying nature, it also has an amusement park and a zoo, and a cable-car I would recommend you take up to see the views over the city.
As the last of the classics there is the Real Jardín Botánico (Royal Botanical Gardens), where you come face to face with some 5,000 different species of trees and plants, capable of transporting you anywhere on the planet.
For the swingers out there who seek a special, melancholic touch in your lives, the Jardín El Capricho is the spot for you. This romantic garden, built between 1787 and 1839, features lakes, boat jetties, a maze, sculpture groups and even the remains of a Civil War anti-aircraft shelter. It is located in the Alameda de Osuna and access is straightforward on the metro (L5, El Capricho station).
2. Bounce back from the early cold with a “cocido”
Hankering after a cocido? Autumn brings back a classic of Madrilenian cuisine – the cocido (stew), the best way of combating and guarding against the arrival of the cold in the city. Among my favourite eateries are the all-time greats like Lhardy (Carrera de San Jerónimo 8), Malacatín (Ruda 5) and La Bola (Bola 5). The cocido at the grass-roots Taberna J. Blanco (Tabernillas, 23) is a hit with me and my family on account of the original setting and the kindness of the owners.
3. Sweet things never made anyone bitter
There comes an afternoon when ice-cream suddenly cedes pride of place to pastries. That’s the moment to head for the Puerta del Sol, go into La Mallorquina and indulge in their huge variety of pastries. The standouts are their napolitana de crema and napolitana de chocolate. You could also stop by at the Horno de San Onofre to have some huesos de santo (saints’ bones) and buñuelos (fritters), the traditional confectionary at All Saints.
Croissant-lovers should not fail to try the ones to be had at Pomme Sucre, where success is guaranteed, aside from the touch of serving your coffee and hot chocolate in English porcelain cups. For those seeking new sensations there is the Moulin Chocolat, where they even dare to lavish French pastries with a flourish, and Mama Framboise, dedicated to gourmet patisserie in a modern, inviting setting.
And, of course, I couldn’t wind up this section without mentioning the popular chocolate con churros establishment, San Ginés, a must which has lost none of its shine and calories over the years.
4. Cultivating your mind
So, you’ve woken up to a rainy day? Now is the time to nourish your mind and soul on the city’s cultural offerings by dropping in on some of the host of scheduled exhibitions. This autumn, you can enjoy the work of Edvard Munch at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, steep yourself in the oeuvre of “The Divine (Luis de) Morales” and succumb to Ingres’ curvaceous Odalisque at the Prado. At the Museo Reina Sofía you get the chance to discover the work of Nasreen Mohamedi, one of the first Indian artists to embrace abstract art, while the Juan March Foundation is offering the first retrospective of the Swiss artist, Max Bill.
5. El Rastro – a Sunday outing up there with the best
A day at El Rastro is often the finishing touch to any Madrid tour. With the excuse of going bargain-hunting in the street stalls and shops, weeding out antiques, clothes, books, records and anything you can imagine, you are likely to end up just strolling around and being caught up in the prevailing atmosphere. The route usually comes to an end in one of the multiple de rigueur local bars, beer in hand, accompanied by a matching tapa. Among the many options, you should try the sardines at the Bar Santurce, the snails at Casa Amadeo, the tostas at Capricho Extremeño and the tapas at the Museo de la Radio.
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Text by Isabel Lucia | ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Felipe Gabaldón, Juan Antonio F. Segal, mcxurxo, pegatina1, Fernando Bueno
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