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The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

The magnificent sea port of Genoa, situated in the north of Italy, is the perfect spot for a two-day getaway. There you can discover the jewels yielded by the sediment of numerous stories that took place in that city over the years.

The old harbour is undoubtedly Genoa’s major attraction. To mark the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America – one of the city’s most celebrated citizens was Christopher Columbus – the harbour was renovated, a make-over that was long overdue. The result of that restoration includes the Bigo, a futuristic structure designed by Renzo Piano affording interesting views over the city, in addition to the Aquarium, the Biosphere and the Galata Sea Museum, one of the largest marine exhibitions in Europe.

But, apart from its harbour, the capital of Liguria offers many other enticements, such as strolling through the Old Town and wandering around the caruggi or dark, narrow back streets. Also worth visiting are the Palazzi dei Rolli, a system of 16th- and 17th-century Renaissance and Baroque palaces, forty-two of which are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Not to be missed either are Genoa Cathedral, dedicated to St Lawrence, and the spectacular Piazza de Ferrari. For those eager to delve into Italy’s history, the place to head for is the Museo del Risorgimento, housed in the erstwhile residence of Giuseppe Mazzini, a key figure in the unification of the country.

The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

Apart from these monuments and landmarks, which you are sure to come across in the course of any tourist itinerary through the city, Genoa has another unusual attraction well worth visiting, the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. Located on the outskirts of Genoa, on a hillside next to the Bisagno Valley in the Staglieno district, lies one of Europe’s largest cemeteries, celebrated for its interesting sculptural and architectural ensembles on tombs and pantheons.

The construction of cemeteries on the outskirts of towns got under way after the 1804 Napoleonic Edict of Saint-Cloud, by which burials in churches or within city walls were banned. In the case of Genoa, Carlo Barabino was tasked with designing the city’s new cemetery in 1835. Construction work began in 1844 and the precinct was inaugurated in 1851, although building continued until 1880. The precinct was extended over time and areas dedicated to other religions were added, notably the Jewish, Orthodox, Protestant and English cemeteries – the latter houses the tomb of  Oscar Wilde’s wife, Constance Lloyd.

Its origins coincide with the rise of a markedly affluent bourgeoisie, intent on extolling their merits for posterity, to which end they commissioned artists to adorn their opulent mausoleums. These artists included such sculptors as Leonardo Bistolfi, Augusto Rivalta, Giulio Monteverde and Edoardo Alfieri.

A walk through this graveyard effectively becomes a tour of the different art styles that emerged in the 19th and 20th century, as visitors are regaled with works of Neoclassicism, Symbolism, Liberty and Art Deco. This is augmented by the presence of nature, in the guise of plant growth interspersed among the various architectural features, making for an unsettling yet inspiring experience.

Many a visitor has succumbed to the charms of this monumental cemetery. Friedrich Nietzsche and Paul Rée used to discuss philosophy as they strolled through it, while Hemingway described it as “One of the wonders of the world”. Peter Saville, for his part, used photos by Bernard Pierre Wolff of some of the sculptures in the cemetery when he designed the Joy Division album covers for Love Will Tear Us Apart and Closer.

Book your Vueling to this fantastic Mediterranean city – discover its old harbour, stroll through itscaruggi,soak up the beauty of its palaces and drop in on this very special cemetery.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by jeff kerwin, Enrico Sirola, Superchilum

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Tracking Down Banksy in Calais

A few days ago, after Banksy had updated his website, we noticed that his work is now displayed at various points in “The Jungle” refugee camp in Calais, one of the largest camps in western Europe. Despite his identity still being cloaked in anonymity, Banksy is currently one of the most highly valued artists around. His sharp, critical wit is undoubtedly the hallmark of his work.

Noteworthy among the four new artworks he posted is the one showing Steve Jobs carrying an early-eighties Macintosh, with a sack slung over his shoulder, reminiscent of the bags the forced migrants often take with them on their harsh journey. This is clearly a reference to the whole migratory movement being enacted from Syria to Europe. Jobs was, of course, the son of a Muslim Syrian immigrant and was adopted by a middle-class family of Armenian origin. That is the conceptual link Banksy draws between Steve Jobs and the Syrian diaspora.

Another Banksy offering in the same area makes reference to a famous work by Théodore Géricault, The Raft of the Medusa, painted between 1818 and 1819, depicting a group of castaways in danger, packed onto a drifting raft. This alludes to the dangerous voyage embarked on by many of these refugees who risk their lives crossing the Mediterranean on flimsy rafts. In this version, the castaways are crying out for help to a modern cruise ship speeding past near the horizon. The artist had previously drawn attention to the issues surrounding the refugee crisis in a work entitled, Dismaland.


In addition to these artworks, members of Banksy’s team set up 12 permanent installations in Calais, and a makeshift children’s playground in the camp precinct. The materials used were either sourced locally or were remnants of the Dismaland project brought here for the purpose. This new project is known as Dismal Aid.

A Much Frequented But Little Visited City

Calais is primarily a city of passage. Some 15 million people are estimated to pass through it each year as it is a compulsory way station for access between France and England. In contrast, comparatively few people actually spend some time visiting the city. However, we can wholeheartedly recommend this city in the north of France, with little over 75,000 inhabitants and just 34 km from Dover, as a tourist destination. Its charm lies not in its architecture or monuments but in its privileged siting on the seaboard and the majestic Côte d’Opale.

The city is not celebrated for its grand monuments or buildings, but it does have such landmarks as the Musée Mémoire 1939-1945, dedicated to the Second World War and housed in a bunker, a sculptural group by Rodin known as The Burghers of Calais, located opposite the City Hall, and the Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode, the city’s Lace Museum. On display is a century-old mechanical loom with 3,500 vertical threads and 11,000 horizontal ones. Calais’ genuine heritage lies in its natural surroundings and local scenery is stunning. Come armed with your camera as the views are breathtaking. The attractive seafront is dotted with striped changing booths which take you back to the early 20th century. The sands stretch westwards for 8 km along the dune-filled Blériot beach, so named as it was here that the pioneer aviatorLouis Blériottook off on the first ever solo flight over the English Channel in 1909.

By the way, when you feel like having lunch or dinner, be sure to head for the Histoire Ancienne, a bistro specialising in regional and French dishes, some cooked on an open wood fire. This very pleasant, Parisian-style restaurant was opened in the 1930s. Prices are affordable, with dinner ranging from 19 to 28 euros.

Don’t miss your getaway to Calais – check out our flights to Lille here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Rob Sinclair, Carawah, Olivier Duquesne

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Catching the Best Waves in Portugal

A land fringed with some 1,800 kilometres of coastline opening onto the wild Atlantic, where winds and currents drive the build-up of waves, is bound to be the perfect destination for surfers. We now reveal the reasons why Portugal exerts such a pull on surfers and pinpoint some of the best beaches for doing this thrilling sport.

Why Surfing in Portugal Rocks

Waves of all sizes and for all tastes. The long Portuguese coastline has ample room for everyone wanting to surf, be they beginners or those who have had loads of waves behind them; that is, under their surfboard.

The good climate. In Portugal, the weather is usually good most of the year around, except in winter, when temperatures go down. The rest of the year is conducive to having a good dip with your surfboard in tow.

The food is fantastic. After a hard day’s riding waves, regaining your strength by downing some great sardinhas asadas (grilled sardines) or savouring an exquisite dish of bacalhau à brás codfish is a delight on the palate.

Affordable prices. In Portugal it is comparatively easy to find quality food and accommodation at more than reasonable prices. What more could you ask for?

The Best Beaches for Catching Waves

Portugal boasts a vast array of surfing beaches, but here are the most outstanding ones:

Ericeira

Apart from being a charming fishing village, Ericeira, situated 30 kilometres north of Lisbon, is one of the favourite destinations for surfers heading for Portugal. It has the distinction of being Europe’s first listed World Surfing Reserve on account of the quality of its waves, the great number of surfing spots and its environment. One of the most prominent spots is the area of Coxos, a small cove with waves of up to 5 metres high, suitable only for daredevils. Another of the noteworthy enclaves is around Ribeira d’Ilhas, ideal for all kinds of surfers and well-known for its beach bars, where people congregate to refuel and socialise. Any time of year is suitable for surfing on these beaches.

Peniche

Situated in the central area of Portugal’s coastline, Peniche offers what is probably the best set of surfing beaches in the country and draws enthusiasts from all over Europe. One of the best beaches is Supertubos – known among surfers as “Eurotube” – with powerful waves that will meet all surfing aficionados’ expectations. Its reputation has earned it the honour of hosting the world surfing championship once a year. Apart from surfing, its beaches are also ideal for bodyboarding and diving.

Nazaré – Praia do Norte

Like Peniche, it is situated in the central stretch of the country’s seaboard. The American, Garrett McNamara, has the honour of having surfed the biggest wave this year, an amazing 20-metre-high wave on the Praia do Norte. Indeed, herein lies the particularity of this spot on the coastline, where waves can often get to 10 metres, which is therefore a major draw for the big riders. The best time of year for viewing and experiencing this marvel of nature is in winter.

Arrifana

Situated on the Costa Vicentina in the northern Algarve, Arrifana is another of those destinations surfers should be considering. The beach is flanked at both ends by cliffs, accessed by a steep stairway. Apart from being a surfing spot, visitors to this area can also enjoy nature in the magnificent South-west Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. The best time for surfing here is in early spring, as in summer it tends to get overcrowded.

Sagres

Also located in the Algarve, Sagres has become a veritable surfing hub. It is the ideal spot for signing up for a Surf & Yoga course at the Freeride Surf Camp, where surfing goes hand in hand with meditation, and for going on a boat ride, ideal for enthusiasts of whale- and dolphin-watching.

Book your Vueling, bring your board along and let yourself get carried away by the waves of Portugal.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by SayLuiiiis, Hendrik Dacquin, Hugo Silva

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Across the romantic Porto

Gateway to the Atlantic and trade with Africa, Porto has a special beauty that you perceive walking the streets. Despite their current romantic decay, the  early-century modernist buildings that rise  on the sides will take you to better times when the city had its maximum commercial splendor.

Enjoy  the terraces and restaurants of lively Ribeira

The historic center of Porto is also one of the most beautiful and colorful areas, a labyrinth of narrow medieval streets and alleys.
The Ribeira Square is in front of the Chapel of Our Lady of Ô, surrounded by bustling cafes. Come to eat to the traditional restaurants in Rua da Fonte Tauria. here you can take the Funicular Guindais aka Dos Guindais, or go up to the highest part of town in the district of Batalha.

The most emblematic of the six bridges of Porto is the Luís I, which crosses the city and Gaia, where the cellars of the famous port wine are. It was designed by a disciple of Eiffel,  Belgian engineer Teofilo Seyrig, so the two metal structures are works very similar in style

It can be crossed to visit Gaia, a town full of wine cellars the boardwalks of its two floors. On the top floor passes the subway line and on the lower one, passes cars and other vehicles.

Porto Wine Cellars

Crossing the bridge, you get to Gaia. Here is where port wine gets older, right next to the city, and you will find most wineries that are producing it. But do not stay only with the idea of ​​their wine; Porto is very interesting to try sardines, fresh saloios cheeses or Cabreiro  and some of their delicious desserts.

Another interesting option is to cross the Douro River on typical Rabelo boats, formerly transporting Porto wine. You will be fascinated by the magnificent views.

Livraria Lello. One of the most beautiful in Europe

It is no wonder that it chose to this library to film some scenes from the Harry Potter saga. It breathes a magical atmosphere. Its art deco details and neogothic style, the access ladder to the top floor, the large stained glass windows of the roof or the wooden bridge that crosses it, make this place more than a simple library to buy books.

The Livraria Lello e Irmao, called Livraria Lello to simplify, located in the Centre of the city in a beautiful building of neo-Gothic style, it is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe and is, with the bookstore Bertrand in Lisbon, one of the oldest in Portugal. Located in the Centre of the city, in a beautiful neo-Gothic style building.

Maus Hábitos

Maus Hábitos or bad habits is not a conventional place. Since 2001, year when Porto was European Capital of Culture, this mix of restaurant, bar and art gallery gives adequate room for the expression of all kinds of artists and organises workshops. Additionally, you can enjoy a mix of traditional and modern Portuguese cuisine overlooking the old town or you can relax in its gorgeous courtyard garden.

Image: Małgorzata Kaczor

Why not take a trip to Oporto? Have a look at our flights here!

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