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Discovering Lorcas Granada

Federico García Lorca, the poet, playwright and a member of the Generation of 27, was undoubtedly one of the leading figures of 20th-century Spanish literature with worldwide acclaim. He is the artificer of such magnificent works as Gypsy Ballads, Poet in New York, Blood Wedding, The House of Bernarda Alba and Yerma, among others. The biography of Federico García Lorca is closely linked to the city of Granada and to some villages in the surrounding Vega of Granada. Just as these lands left their mark on his work, so has Lorca’s influence lingered there over time. We now retrace the footprints of this magnanimous artist.

The Lorca route sets out from Fuente Vaqueros, a small town on the Vega de Granada where the poet was born. The house where he was born, located at 4 Calle García Lorca, which has been turned into a museum, provides visitors with an idea of his first steps in life.

Near Fuente Vaqueros lies the town of Valderrubio. Apart from being the first place to grow Virginia tobacco brought from the Americas, it was here that Lorca spent his holidays during his infancy. Prominent places of interest include the house of Bernarda Alba, on the Calle de la Iglesia, which was next door to García Lorca’s family home. As you may have gathered, it was the source of inspiration for one of his most widely acclaimed stage plays, The House of Bernarda Alba, with its mordant portrayal of life in the Spanish heartland. The old family abode has been turned into a House Museum, with some of the poet’s personal belongings on display.

In 1909, the Lorca family moved to Granada, where our route continues. His first home in this city was at 50 Calle Acera del Darro and the second, at 31 Acera del Casino. In 1914 he started a degree in Law and Arts at Granada University. During that period, he began to frequent what was one of the most celebrated meeting places of young intellectuals, the Café Alameda, which is now the Restaurante Chikito. That what where the conversational circle known as “El Rinconcillo” used to meet. The group was made up of artists of different disciplines whose common aim it was to promote cultural renewal in the city. The Centro Artístico y Literario de Granada (CALC) and El Polinario – also a famous flamenco tablao– were other spots frequented by Lorca.

An upshot of these gatherings was that Lorca struck up a friendship with Manuel de Falla, also a member of “El Rinconcillo”. Together they organised the first Cante Jondo de Granada contest – also a first in the whole of Spain – which was held in the Plaza de los Aljibes at the Alhambra.

The second-last stopover on our itinerary, just two kilometres from Granada, is the town of Huerta de San Vicente, the family’s summer residence from 1926 to 1936. Set in a beautiful park, it became a retreat for Lorca and it was there that he was able to relax, and draw inspiration to write. It was also the place where he spent the last few days of his life. The home has now been turned into the Federico García Lorca House-Museum, with furniture, personal objects and photographs of Lorca on display.

When the Spanish Civil War broke out in the summer of 1936, Lorca was forced to seek refuge in the family home of the poet, Luis Rosales, although this did not prevent him from being arrested on 16 August 1936. Our final stop on this itinerary through Lorca’s haunts in Granada is an olive grove located between Vízcar and Alfacar, where Federico García Lorca was executed by firing squad in the morning of 18 August. This subsequently became a park named after the poet. In it stands a monolith in memory of the victims of the Francoist repression during the Civil War.

Good reason to book your Vueling to Granada and follow the Lorca trail through Granada.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Alfons Hoogervorst, John Levin

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Málaga Carnival Rhythm

If you go to Málaga in February, you are likely to be rewarded with a festive surprise over and above the city’s historical heritage, its incredible variety of museums, its beaches and its cuisine, in the shape of their Carnival. Indeed, when it comes to carnivals, Malagueñans would not be outclassed by the famous Carnival of Cádiz.

This year, from 30 January to 7 February, Málaga will be decked out in all its fancy-dress finery and turned into a veritable fiesta, a tribute to one of the raciest celebrations of the year – Carnival. But, what makes these festivities so special as to become a must-see?

1. A Splendid Climate

Situated in the south of Spain and bathed by the increasingly warmer waters of the Mediterranean, Málaga has a mild winter, enabling people to enjoy any outdoor activity to the full. This is also true of Carnival, known locally as the Fiesta del Invierno Cálido (Warm Winter Fiesta).

2. Murgas, Troupes and Quartet Gatherings

One of the highlights of this carnival are the gatherings of murgas, comparsas and quartets in the Teatro Cervantes, where they compete to be the wickedest band on stage and to see who delivers the wittiest song lyrics. While we’re at it, if you’re thinking of attending any of these performances, be sure to book ahead to avoid missing the shows.

3. Culinary Schedule

It couldn’t be otherwise – gastronomy plays a crucial role in Málaga’s Carnival, where traditional fare takes pride of place. The dishes you are most likely to encounter include berza (collard greens), potajes (vegetable stews), noodles, rices and paella, while the ongoing carnival background music is provided by the songs known as coplas.

4. Parades, Goddesses, Drag Queens and Even a Flower Fight

No carnival worth its salt could be without its parades, designed to delight the crowds with the colourful display of their variegated fancy dresses. One of the Malagueñan traditions that has endured to the present is the Flower Battle, which takes place in the Alameda Principal, at which petals and coloured paper flowers fly in all directions. The event has its origins in the 19th century, when the working classes took advantage of the carnival atmosphere to “assault” the privileged classes by throwing flowers at them as they filed past in their posh floats.

High notes of the parades include the election of the Carnival Gods and the Drag Queen Gala.

5. The Anchovy Burial

The anchovy, a fish which abounds in Málaga, is the protagonist of the last day of Carnival. At the “Anchovy Burial”, known here as the boqueroná,a procession is held at which a huge anchovy-shaped figure is paraded through the streets, from the central Calle Larios to La Malagueta Beach, where it ends up being torched.

Málaga – Aside from Carnival

Once you’re in Málaga, frenzied carnival merrymaking permitting, do take the chance to visit some of the many marvels to be seen in that beautiful city. We can wholeheartedly recommend Málaga Cathedral, built on the orders of the Catholic Kings when they conquered the city; the Alcazaba, a formidable Moorish fortress dating from the 11th century, the Roman Theatre and the beautiful Atarazanas Central Market, built over a former Nasrid naval shipyards of which the original marble door has been preserved. And, as befits the birthplace of Picasso, make sure you visit some of the art centres, which have turned Málaga into one of the favourite destinations of art lovers.

Put on your fancy dress and take a Vueling to Málaga to delight in its magnificent Carnival.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Fundación Carnaval de Málaga

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The Modernist Face of Valencia

Valencia is not all Calatrava and paella, just as Barcelona does not account for all of Spain’s Modernist buildings – well, someone had to say it! Clichés aside, if there is anything the first-time visitor to Valencia is likely to be amazed at it is the sheer quantity and quality of its Modernist heritage. It hits you as you wander down its streets, particularly in the historic centre and the Ensanche.

Valencia saw marked urban development in the late-19th century, the upshot of its economic boom at the time. The city grew beyond its old walled precinct, giving rise to an overspill known as the Ensanche. The expansion coincided with one of the burgeoning art movements of the moment, one that would become all the rage among Europe’s middle classes. The movement became known as Modernism, elsewhere dubbed Art Nouveau, Modern Style, Jugendstil, Liberty or Floreale, depending on the country. Not to be outdone, the Valencian middle classes became enthralled by this new style, which a marked a break with the prevailing academic tradition. Its artificers were inspired by nature and experimented with new applications of iron and glass in architecture.

Valencian Modernism is characterised by the use of glazed ceramics on facades and in interiors, which usually feature motifs associated with the region, notably oranges and orange blossom. Among the standout buildings, which you should make a point of visiting on your itinerary of Valencia’s Modernist heritage, are the following:

- Mercat Central. Built in 1914 and designed by Francesc Guàrdia i Vial and Alexandre Soler, both of whom trained at the Barcelona School of Architecture, this is one of the city’s major tourist attractions and it’s not for nothing. The interior metallic structure is painted white, making the colours of wares sold in the stalls stand out all the more. Further, visitors are met by the striking, spectacular central dome, which floods the interior with light. Both the stunning architecture and the congenial atmosphere in the market make this a must-visit for all sightseers in the city.

- Mercado de Colón. Inaugurated in 1916 and designed by Francisco Mora Berenguer, it was commissioned to provide services for the Ensanche district. Prominent is the ornamented brick facade, decorated with a host of ceramic figures – it couldn’t be otherwise! Restored in 2003, the interior now houses various shops, cafés and bars.

- Estación del Norte. Passengers arriving in Valencia by train are rewarded with the sight of this marvellous station. Opened in 1917, it boasts some beautiful areas, notably the vestibule, decorated in wood, glazed ceramics and marble.

- Casa Ordeig. Located next to the Mercat Central, it was designed by Francisco de Mora i Berenguer. He drew inspiration from the Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), which accounts for the Neo-Gothic motifs on the facade.

- Edificio Suay. This grand edifice with its white facade is located on the corner of Calle Correos and the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It was designed by the same architect as the Casa Ordeig.

- Edificio de los Dragones. Located on the corner of Calle Sorni and Calle Jorge Juan, it was designed by José María Manuel Cortina Pérez and built in 1901. Its Neo-Gothic-inspired decoration is striking and features a profusion of mythical animals, particularly dragons – hence its name.

Apart from the aforementioned landmarks, we recommend you take a stroll along Calle de la Paz, where you will come across numerous Modernist buildings, including the Edificio Camaña Laymon, Edificio Sancho, Casa Gray, and Casa Sagnier I and II.

Ready to discover one of Valencia’s most alluring and evocative architectural facets? Book your flight here.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Jocelyn Kinghorn, Marja van Bochove, Carquinyol, Pleuntje, Paul Thompson

 

 

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Essentials of alicantinian gastronomy

Alicante is a synonym for Mediterranean cuisine and is not in vain that one of the best chefs worldwide, Ferran Adrià, said Alicante is, without question, the Spanish province where you eat better.

We love Mediterranean cuisine and this is why we want to offer a selection of 5 products that you have to try in Alicante, and we also advice you where to try them. Some of the products and restaurants might be missing, but take this approach to the gastronomy from Alicante as a starter. In this situation, a local would tell you: “anem a fer una picaeta” (a tradition from the little town of Alcoi, based in a round of tapas, toasts and little sandwiches).

Rice: The rice grows in Valencia and cooks in Alicante, or so it goes in a popular saying. If we want to fully discover the cuisine from Alicante, we must try paella at Restaurante Casa Riquelme. In paellas you can find all kind of ingredients, from fish and seafood to fresh products grown in the fields of the country, accompanied by chicken, rabbit or even snails. Eating at Casa Riquelme (Vázquez de Mella, 17), any midday from Wednesday to Sunday, is a synonym for fine dining. Find more information in this link

Wines: With its own protected designation of origin since mid-20th century. In Alicante you can taste a wine that mixes two kind of grapes, original from the region: monastrell and moscatel. The mistelle wine is original from this land. At Bodega de Meyos (Avenida Condomina, 40) in Alicante we can taste wine by the glass and accompany it with good food, all for a very fair price. We can also buy wine bottles; in fact this was originally a wine shop. 

Horchata: In hot weather, is common to see locals tasting a horchata in any terrace. This precious beverage made of tigernuts (chufas) is one of the most exported products. Don’t forget to go to Horchatería Azul (Calderón de la Barca, 36) to drink this refreshment and accompany it of fartons or the delicious almond pastry (coca de almendras). It’s closed on winter, but is considered for many people the best horchatería in Alicante, a traditional place.

Nougats: Another product Alicante is well known for. This is one of the main products to eat on Christmas, in Spain, and is always in the dinning table with the own local varieties: Jijona nougat and Alicante nougat. If you are in Alicante, try them at Espí (Avenida Alfonso X el Sabio, 4) and, if you want to make a very good impression, buy some as a gift for the upcoming Christmas time.

Pastry: cocas de tonyina (a fine pie stuffed with tuna) are very typical food for the Hogueras de San Juan, on the summer solstice. We can eat them at La Ibense (Calle de Portugal, 38), not only on summer. In this place you can also try delicious pizza portions or the traditional pastry (coca de mollita) with chocolate.

We could continue with other typical products of the region, like the worldwide known stuffed olives from Alcoi o the chocolate Valor, but we can keep that for upcoming gastronomic visits.

For now, as locals in Alicante say: “que aprofite”!!!!

Image from Les Haines

Why not take a trip to Alicante? Have a look at our flights here!

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