Vigo’s Island Paradise
Vigo is the largest and liveliest city in the verdant Galicia region on Spain’s northwestern corner, and the unspoiled Islas Cíesislands that guard the entrance to the Vigo estuary provide the contrasting note of blissful peace and quiet, in a natural setting of fine beaches, dunes, lagoons, thick forests, and hiking trails. The three islands are the crown jewels of the Parque Nacional Marítimo Terrestre das Illas Atlánticas de Galicia, which includes theIslas de Ons archipelago to the north, and their almost pristine state is jealously protected. There are no hotels, only a campsite open in the summer months, and the number of visitors is restricted to 2,200 per day, so it’s wise to take an early morning boat. That will also give you time to relax on the beach and to explore the hilly islands which are criss-crossed by hiking trails –no cars or bicycles are allowed. You’ll see spectacular views, rich vegetation, and large colonies of both resident and migratory seabirds, such as the yellow-footed seagull, the cormorant, and many other species.
Monte do Faro and Monteagudo Islands
The ferries take you to the two northernmost islands, connected by a stone footbridge and by the Playa de Rodas itself, which is really a sandy 1.2 km-long isthmus separating the Vigo estuary from the tidal lagoon between the islands. A third island, San Martiño, can be reached only by private boat, and indeed, dozens of sailboats and a few luxury yachts can be seen lying at anchor near all three islands in the summer. There are nine beaches on the two connected islands, each with its own character, and the most famous after Rodas is that of Figueiras, a popular nudist beach with plenty of shade, on the north island, Monteagudo. Serious nature lovers can easily hike all the trails in a few hours, looking down the steep cliffs on the windward western shore, or admiring the panoramic views in all directions from the lighthouse –faro in Spanish– built in the mid 19th C. at 178 metres above sea level on Monte del Faro, also known as the Isla del Medio or “middle island”.
Playa de Rodas
The halfmoon-shaped curve of Rodas beach connecting the two islands on the leeward, eastern shore is a true gem of fine gold sand and shallow crystalline waters –you can walk 200 metres from the shore and keep your hair dry, so it’s very safe for children. The tides regularly flush it clean, also renewing the water in the lagoon behind, which is the abode of a rich variety of fish and shellfish (diving is allowed, but spearfishing is not).
Where to Eat
Asador Soriano
To restore your strength with some local fare you should try the pulpo á Illa –octopus, island-style– tender chunks of boiled octopus with onion, coarse sea salt, and both sweet and spicy paprika. But the large menu also features roasts and other specialities. The restaurant has a choice of rooms in which to enjoy your meal –public, private, with fireplace, etc. – and cellars where you can sample some of Galicia’s exquisite wines
How to Get There
From June through September there are ferries at least every hour from Vigo harbour, or the nearby towns of Baiona, Cangas, and Moaña, from 0630h until 1030h. In the off season you must hire a boat, with or without crew, which is easy to do in Vigo, but you’ll need a permit, and another permit for anchoring off the islands.
Fancy a hop to the islands? Check out our fares here!
Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos: Tour Galicia
more infoEerie Fun In Barcelona
While modest in size, Barcelona packs a punch, boasting myriad leisure facilities which are up with the much bigger cities in terms of area and population. This is evident in the host of activities scheduled for Halloween. In effect, on 31 October, the city morphs into one of Europe’s great capitals of witches, pumpkins and monsters. Take note, though – these events are paralleled by the traditional Castanyada, a grass-roots Catalan festivity at which celebrants feast on chestnuts, sweet potato, panellets (small marzipans coated with pine nuts) and muscatel in family circles. Here, then, are five ideas for enjoying the best Halloween possible in Barcelona.
The Vampire Route & Other Legends
A millenary city, Barcelona has all sorts of historical legends related to the supernatural, some of which are charted on the route organised by the folks at Go Bcn. Best of all, you can do it on the night of 31 October. The story of Enriqueta Martí, the protagonist of some macabre events in the early-20th century, and the telluric significance of certain buildings and other spaces in the city, are chronicled on this two-hour route during Halloween, which roams mainly through Barcelona’s city centre and historic quarter.
Hotel Krüeger, in Tibidabo
Located in the Tibidabo fairgrounds, Barcelona’s iconic amusement park, with splendid views over the city, the Hotel Krüeger is one of the few Houses of Terror still operating in Spain. You can experience fear live, in the course of an entertaining, fast-paced ride in which fair-goers are subjected to frightening situations by actors dressed up as notorious characters from horror movies. They always lay on new predicaments and frights for Halloween, so Hotel Krüeger is a must-visit venue on 31 October.
Terror Marathon at Phenomena
No Halloween would be complete without horror movies. They know that only too well at Phenomena, one of the best cinemas in town. To mark the occasion, they have scheduled a movie marathon for 31 October and, if you decide to come along, be sure to don a suitable fancy dress for your trick or treat. The main feature films for that night are two 80s classics, Dolls and Pet Sematary, plus a surprise movie to be announced minutes before its screening. Incidentally, the cinema is almost next door to the Sagrada Familia, so you can score a double by also visiting Gaudí’s masterpiece.
Razzhalloween
The Sala Razzmatazz requires no introduction – it is Barcelona’s most acclaimed dance club and the nerve centre of independent pop-rock and fresh, cutting-edge dance music. On 31 October, this disco in Poblenou will morph into Razzhalloween, the premises divided up into various spaces decked out in Halloween motifs and as horror movie sets. Two examples – the emblematicLolitahall will be converted into the Horror Camp, and thePop Barinto Psycho Fan.
The Poblenou and Montjuïc Cemeteries
Graveyards set several kilometres apart, but united by seniority and charm. One near the sea (Montjuïc) and the other in one of the city’s iconic districts – Poblenou. Both are open to the public and admission-free. Take note – the Poblenou Cemetery cemetery will lay on a guided tour on the night of 1 November to celebrate All Saints. It is free-of-charge, and guests will be chaperoned by actors dressed up as some of Barcelona’s famous historic figures.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona here and enjoy its eeriest offerings.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Imágenes by Laurabtanti, Sarah_Ackerman, Nikodem Nijaki, Leticia Manzano, Rober
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Discovering Lorcas Granada
Federico García Lorca, the poet, playwright and a member of the Generation of 27, was undoubtedly one of the leading figures of 20th-century Spanish literature with worldwide acclaim. He is the artificer of such magnificent works as Gypsy Ballads, Poet in New York, Blood Wedding, The House of Bernarda Alba and Yerma, among others. The biography of Federico García Lorca is closely linked to the city of Granada and to some villages in the surrounding Vega of Granada. Just as these lands left their mark on his work, so has Lorca’s influence lingered there over time. We now retrace the footprints of this magnanimous artist.
The Lorca route sets out from Fuente Vaqueros, a small town on the Vega de Granada where the poet was born. The house where he was born, located at 4 Calle García Lorca, which has been turned into a museum, provides visitors with an idea of his first steps in life.
Near Fuente Vaqueros lies the town of Valderrubio. Apart from being the first place to grow Virginia tobacco brought from the Americas, it was here that Lorca spent his holidays during his infancy. Prominent places of interest include the house of Bernarda Alba, on the Calle de la Iglesia, which was next door to García Lorca’s family home. As you may have gathered, it was the source of inspiration for one of his most widely acclaimed stage plays, The House of Bernarda Alba, with its mordant portrayal of life in the Spanish heartland. The old family abode has been turned into a House Museum, with some of the poet’s personal belongings on display.
In 1909, the Lorca family moved to Granada, where our route continues. His first home in this city was at 50 Calle Acera del Darro and the second, at 31 Acera del Casino. In 1914 he started a degree in Law and Arts at Granada University. During that period, he began to frequent what was one of the most celebrated meeting places of young intellectuals, the Café Alameda, which is now the Restaurante Chikito. That what where the conversational circle known as “El Rinconcillo” used to meet. The group was made up of artists of different disciplines whose common aim it was to promote cultural renewal in the city. The Centro Artístico y Literario de Granada (CALC) and El Polinario – also a famous flamenco tablao– were other spots frequented by Lorca.
An upshot of these gatherings was that Lorca struck up a friendship with Manuel de Falla, also a member of “El Rinconcillo”. Together they organised the first Cante Jondo de Granada contest – also a first in the whole of Spain – which was held in the Plaza de los Aljibes at the Alhambra.
The second-last stopover on our itinerary, just two kilometres from Granada, is the town of Huerta de San Vicente, the family’s summer residence from 1926 to 1936. Set in a beautiful park, it became a retreat for Lorca and it was there that he was able to relax, and draw inspiration to write. It was also the place where he spent the last few days of his life. The home has now been turned into the Federico García Lorca House-Museum, with furniture, personal objects and photographs of Lorca on display.
When the Spanish Civil War broke out in the summer of 1936, Lorca was forced to seek refuge in the family home of the poet, Luis Rosales, although this did not prevent him from being arrested on 16 August 1936. Our final stop on this itinerary through Lorca’s haunts in Granada is an olive grove located between Vízcar and Alfacar, where Federico García Lorca was executed by firing squad in the morning of 18 August. This subsequently became a park named after the poet. In it stands a monolith in memory of the victims of the Francoist repression during the Civil War.
Good reason to book your Vueling to Granada and follow the Lorca trail through Granada.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Alfons Hoogervorst, John Levin
more infoSerra de Tramuntana
Some areas of the Mallorcan coast have been hit by the touristic boom, the one that has sown it merciless with large buildings and beachfront resorts. Luckily, others have been carefully conserved and have protected the environment.
This is the case of the Serra de Tramuntana, one of the most beautiful and emblematic landscapes of Mallorca, located northwest of the island. Of its relief the peaks over 1,000 meters stand out -like the majestic Puig Major, the highest peak of the Balearic Islands with 1447 meters- and the different landscapes that you will discover traveling the road that runs through it and running from Andratx to Pollença going by some of the most beautiful villages of the island as Bañalbufar, Estellencs, Deià, Pollença, Lluc, Fornalutx or Valldemossa.
An excellent area for practice hiking, caving and canyoning with spectacular views through valleys, cliffs and gorges.
Sóller
The town of Sóller offers various attractions: it concentrates a large number of modernist buildings such as the Banc de Sóller or the Can Brunera mansion -that now houses a museum-, the old church of San Bartolomé and a picturesque harbor with two beaches.
In addition, it is said that the ensaimadas from Soller are the best, with the garrovetes del papa, its typical sweet, or the oranges used to prepare juice and ice-creams. You can find these local products and traditional crafts in "Es Mercat" which is held every Saturday.
One of the fun trips you can do from Sóller is to take the Sóller train that connects the town with Palma de Mallorca. A trip to the past in their wooden wagons and with the rattling of a line that opened in 1912 and runs between the beautiful landscapes of the Tramuntana mountains and fields full of almond, olive and carob trees.
Fornalutx
Just above the village of Sóller there is Fornalutx, chosen as one of the "most beautiful in Spain" a couple of times. Their houses are finely restored and perfectly ordered despite the uneven, the flowers on the balconies, the cobbled streets and ancient tradition of painted tiles-present in many of the houses- make it a dream place.
Walkers have here many interesting routes ranging from Sóller to Fornalutx, like the one leading to Mirador de Ses Barques or the Cami de Sa Figuera.
Sa Calobra and other beaches and coves
In the same mountain range of tramuntana there is Sa Calobra, a cove created at the mouth of the River Torrent de Pareis where the sea, forest and cliffs converge in a natural setting of stunning beauty.
The access is complicated because you must go through 800 sinuous curves along 4 kilometers, including the convoluted 360 degrees curve known as the Nus de la Corbata (tie knot).
From Sa Calobra you can reach to the Torrent de Pareis Creek, where they celebrate each year the "Concert in Sa Calobra" every first Sunday of July. The canyon walls exert natural amphitheater, creating a unique and unrivaled sound.
Throughout the area you can find pristine beaches like Cala d'Egos in Andratx, Es Port des Canonge in Banyalbufar, the Cala de Valldemossa or Llucalcari in Deià, and although sometimes you have to walk a few miles down steep rocks or drive on narrow roads with impossible curves, it is worth the effort, to be rewarded at the end with a wonderful beach less frequented by tourists.
The Sanctuary of Lluc
The origin of its name comes from lucus, meaning "sacred forest". Here is the Virgen de Lluc "La Moreneta", patron saint of Mallorca; a small, dark-skinned virgin, that, according to the legend, found a shepherd in the mountains. The virgin was reluctant to leave the place and that is why a small chapel was built and with time, it became this beautiful sanctuary.
There are are some bars and restaurants around the architectural complex.
Picture Sa Calobra by Hugin | picture Sóller by jpm2112 | picture Serra Tramuntana by Carlos Delgado
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
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