Discovering Lorcas Granada
Federico García Lorca, the poet, playwright and a member of the Generation of 27, was undoubtedly one of the leading figures of 20th-century Spanish literature with worldwide acclaim. He is the artificer of such magnificent works as Gypsy Ballads, Poet in New York, Blood Wedding, The House of Bernarda Alba and Yerma, among others. The biography of Federico García Lorca is closely linked to the city of Granada and to some villages in the surrounding Vega of Granada. Just as these lands left their mark on his work, so has Lorca’s influence lingered there over time. We now retrace the footprints of this magnanimous artist.
The Lorca route sets out from Fuente Vaqueros, a small town on the Vega de Granada where the poet was born. The house where he was born, located at 4 Calle García Lorca, which has been turned into a museum, provides visitors with an idea of his first steps in life.
Near Fuente Vaqueros lies the town of Valderrubio. Apart from being the first place to grow Virginia tobacco brought from the Americas, it was here that Lorca spent his holidays during his infancy. Prominent places of interest include the house of Bernarda Alba, on the Calle de la Iglesia, which was next door to García Lorca’s family home. As you may have gathered, it was the source of inspiration for one of his most widely acclaimed stage plays, The House of Bernarda Alba, with its mordant portrayal of life in the Spanish heartland. The old family abode has been turned into a House Museum, with some of the poet’s personal belongings on display.
In 1909, the Lorca family moved to Granada, where our route continues. His first home in this city was at 50 Calle Acera del Darro and the second, at 31 Acera del Casino. In 1914 he started a degree in Law and Arts at Granada University. During that period, he began to frequent what was one of the most celebrated meeting places of young intellectuals, the Café Alameda, which is now the Restaurante Chikito. That what where the conversational circle known as “El Rinconcillo” used to meet. The group was made up of artists of different disciplines whose common aim it was to promote cultural renewal in the city. The Centro Artístico y Literario de Granada (CALC) and El Polinario – also a famous flamenco tablao– were other spots frequented by Lorca.
An upshot of these gatherings was that Lorca struck up a friendship with Manuel de Falla, also a member of “El Rinconcillo”. Together they organised the first Cante Jondo de Granada contest – also a first in the whole of Spain – which was held in the Plaza de los Aljibes at the Alhambra.
The second-last stopover on our itinerary, just two kilometres from Granada, is the town of Huerta de San Vicente, the family’s summer residence from 1926 to 1936. Set in a beautiful park, it became a retreat for Lorca and it was there that he was able to relax, and draw inspiration to write. It was also the place where he spent the last few days of his life. The home has now been turned into the Federico García Lorca House-Museum, with furniture, personal objects and photographs of Lorca on display.
When the Spanish Civil War broke out in the summer of 1936, Lorca was forced to seek refuge in the family home of the poet, Luis Rosales, although this did not prevent him from being arrested on 16 August 1936. Our final stop on this itinerary through Lorca’s haunts in Granada is an olive grove located between Vízcar and Alfacar, where Federico García Lorca was executed by firing squad in the morning of 18 August. This subsequently became a park named after the poet. In it stands a monolith in memory of the victims of the Francoist repression during the Civil War.
Good reason to book your Vueling to Granada and follow the Lorca trail through Granada.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Alfons Hoogervorst, John Levin
more infoA Delightful Stroll Through Antwerp
Antwerp lies 50 kilometres from Brussels and is a must-see city if you happen to be in Flanders. There you will find all the ingredients for enjoying a splendid getaway – streets brimming with fashion, a magnificent historic centre with beautiful buildings, including the Rubens House museum, and a culminating tour of the district where 85% of the world’s diamond trade is concentrated – not bad, is it?
One of the best ways to “drop in on” the city is by train as you will be greeted right away by the spectacular Central Station. Built from 1895 to 1905, it consists of a large, formidable structure crowned by a huge dome and decorated in twenty different types of marble, which has earned it the nickname of “marble temple”. No wonder it is regarded as one of the finest stations in the world.
After such a grand reception, the best thing is to head for the city’shistoric centreto rake up vestiges of its splendid past. A must-visit site is the Grote Markt (Main Square), framed by 16th- and 17th-century guild buildings, with pride of place going to the Antwerp City Hall. In the centre of the square stands one of the icons of Antwerp – the fountain of Silvius Brabo. Sculpted in bronze in 1887, the theme relates to the origins of the city. Legend has it that a giant named Druon Antigoon, who guarded the bridge over the river Scheldt, used to charge a toll for any boats wishing to sail by. Any boatman who refused to pay the fee would have his hand cut off and thrown into the river. One day, the Roman centurion, Silvius Brabo, who had grown tired of this situation, cut off the giant’s hand and threw it into the river, giving rise to the origin of the name Antwerp (Ant= hand, werpen= to throw). No wonder then that a typical local confectionery called handjes is shaped like a hand, in memory of the legendary event.
Pressing on with our downtown walk, we recommend stopping to visit the Cathedral which houses one of Rubens’ masterpieces, The Descent from the Cross. Another sight worth visiting is the Gothic Church of St James, part of the branch of the Road to Santiago which starts in the Netherlands.
Another major landmark in Antwerp is the Rubens House (Rubenshuis), where the painter spent the last 29 years of his life. Now a museum, it successfully conveys how this artistic genius lived and worked. Rubens was one of the favourites of King Philip IV of Spain, his leading patron.
Among the curiosities of this city, which has earned it worldwide fame (notwithstanding its harbour, which is one of the major ports in Europe), is its important role in the diamond trade. The figures talk for themselves: 40% of the world’s industrial diamond is marketed in Antwerp, as is over 85% of rough diamond and 50% of polished diamond – nothing to be scoffed at! The district where all this activity takes place lies south of the Central Station. There, sightseers can visit the Diamond Museum and brush up on their knowledge of this luxurious, highly valuable mineral.
More suited to a variety of budgets is Meir, the city’s most important shopping street, where you can find all sorts of brands sold from the interiors of beautiful 18th- and 19th-century town palaces. Fashion and design are also major players in Antwerp, so be sure to head for Nationalestraat to visit MoMu, the Fashion Museum.
Let yourself be carried away by the charms of this beautiful city – book your Vueling to Brussels here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by tom hartley
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Vigo’s Island Paradise
Vigo is the largest and liveliest city in the verdant Galicia region on Spain’s northwestern corner, and the unspoiled Islas Cíesislands that guard the entrance to the Vigo estuary provide the contrasting note of blissful peace and quiet, in a natural setting of fine beaches, dunes, lagoons, thick forests, and hiking trails. The three islands are the crown jewels of the Parque Nacional Marítimo Terrestre das Illas Atlánticas de Galicia, which includes theIslas de Ons archipelago to the north, and their almost pristine state is jealously protected. There are no hotels, only a campsite open in the summer months, and the number of visitors is restricted to 2,200 per day, so it’s wise to take an early morning boat. That will also give you time to relax on the beach and to explore the hilly islands which are criss-crossed by hiking trails –no cars or bicycles are allowed. You’ll see spectacular views, rich vegetation, and large colonies of both resident and migratory seabirds, such as the yellow-footed seagull, the cormorant, and many other species.
Monte do Faro and Monteagudo Islands
The ferries take you to the two northernmost islands, connected by a stone footbridge and by the Playa de Rodas itself, which is really a sandy 1.2 km-long isthmus separating the Vigo estuary from the tidal lagoon between the islands. A third island, San Martiño, can be reached only by private boat, and indeed, dozens of sailboats and a few luxury yachts can be seen lying at anchor near all three islands in the summer. There are nine beaches on the two connected islands, each with its own character, and the most famous after Rodas is that of Figueiras, a popular nudist beach with plenty of shade, on the north island, Monteagudo. Serious nature lovers can easily hike all the trails in a few hours, looking down the steep cliffs on the windward western shore, or admiring the panoramic views in all directions from the lighthouse –faro in Spanish– built in the mid 19th C. at 178 metres above sea level on Monte del Faro, also known as the Isla del Medio or “middle island”.
Playa de Rodas
The halfmoon-shaped curve of Rodas beach connecting the two islands on the leeward, eastern shore is a true gem of fine gold sand and shallow crystalline waters –you can walk 200 metres from the shore and keep your hair dry, so it’s very safe for children. The tides regularly flush it clean, also renewing the water in the lagoon behind, which is the abode of a rich variety of fish and shellfish (diving is allowed, but spearfishing is not).
Where to Eat
Asador Soriano
To restore your strength with some local fare you should try the pulpo á Illa –octopus, island-style– tender chunks of boiled octopus with onion, coarse sea salt, and both sweet and spicy paprika. But the large menu also features roasts and other specialities. The restaurant has a choice of rooms in which to enjoy your meal –public, private, with fireplace, etc. – and cellars where you can sample some of Galicia’s exquisite wines
How to Get There
From June through September there are ferries at least every hour from Vigo harbour, or the nearby towns of Baiona, Cangas, and Moaña, from 0630h until 1030h. In the off season you must hire a boat, with or without crew, which is easy to do in Vigo, but you’ll need a permit, and another permit for anchoring off the islands.
Fancy a hop to the islands? Check out our fares here!
Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos: Tour Galicia
more infoEaster in Sicily – between Christianity and Paganism
As in much of Spain, Holy Week unfolds with great intensity in most of Sicily. This comes as no surprise – the processions of penitents commemorating Christ’s Passion and Death were brought to the island by the Spanish in the 16th century. While they abound across Sicily, the processions that arouse the greatest expectation are those held in villages like Enna and Caltanissetta, both of which lie about an hour’s drive away from Catania.
But all Sicily’s beautiful, timeless villages preserve their deep-rooted traditions, each with its own character. A holiday on the island during Holy Week could combine sightseeing in coastal towns, discovering local architecture and tasting their delicious cuisine. And, during the festivities, the religious guilds stage spectacular Easter processions in which the Baroque aesthetic prevails.
If you want to savour some of these ancient festivals, go to Prizzi on Easter morning. There they celebrate the Ballo dei diavoli (dance of the devils). In this folk tradition from the Middle Ages, death, dressed in yellow, accompanied by devils clad in red, roam the town heckling the passers-by, who can only get rid of their tormentors by giving them a donation. This takes place just when the madonna and child make their entry. This curious form of revelry, a mix of the religious and the profane, represents the eternal struggle between good and evil.
A similar event known as the Diavolatais held in Adrano.The main square or Piazza Umberto provides the backdrop for this battle between good and evil, represented by Lucifer and his devils on one side and St Michael the Archangel on the other.
Another picturesque celebration is the Madonna Vasa Vasa,in Modica, in which the faithful crowd around the floats on their way to the church of St Mary of Bethlehem to witness the traditional bacio di mezzogiorno (the noon kiss) between the Virgin Mary and the resurrected Christ. Vasa means “kiss”. Dressed in mourning, the Madonna is carried through the streets of Modica in search of her son, to the rhythm of drumming. Throughout the procession, the people sing, dance and drink to celebrate the event. While strolling through the winding streets of Modica’s charming historical centre, visitors will eventually come across the striking Baroque architecture in the area around the Castle of the Counts of Modica, listed as a World Heritage site since 2002.
One of the oldest and most enigmatic celebrations is the Procession of the Mysteries, held in the historical centre of Trapani. Full of light and emotion, this procession consists of twenty float groups depicting the Passion and Death of Christ which parade through the streets for 24 hours, starting on Good Friday afternoon. The figures are borne on the shoulders of the massari to the rhythm of a traditional music known as annaccata.
As in all traditional festivities, Holy Week in Sicily has its characteristic confectionery. The colomba pasquale (Easter dove), also known as the palummeddi or pastifuorti, is eaten in the home. This typical sweet is usually shaped like a dove or rooster, although new shapes are emerging all the time. It consists of flour, sugar and cinnamon, topped off with a hard-boiled egg as a symbol of Easter and rebirth. A similar pastry is the cuddura, typical of the Calabria region. Based on flour and water, it is similarly adorned with hard-boiled eggs. The casatta siciliana is another cake eaten at Easter, although it is sold in pastry shops all year around. If you would like to taste some of these delicacies, the best assortment is to be had at Pasticceria Irrera, on the Piazza Cairoli 12 in Messina, and at Caffè Sicilia, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele III, 125 Noto de Siracusa.
Go for it! Check out our prices here!
Text by ScannerFM
Image by Clemensfranz, Carmelo Giuseppe Colletti, Rmax75, Giovanni, Traktorminze
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