Santiago de Compostela, living heritage
By Adela Nieto Cerrada from callejeandoporelplaneta.com
Santiago de Compostela is a city that enchants pilgrims and travellers alike since, on arriving after your journey, its streets and squares start to come alive, bustling with life. After travelling hundreds of kilometres, some joyful, some painful, we finally get to rest in Plaza del Obradoiro square, having fulfilled our duty by visiting the Apostle who was anxiously waiting to welcome us in the cathedral. This is when, exhausted and excited, we begin our discovery of what lies in the city of Santiago with its hostels, restaurants and shops hidden away on side streets. Now we can start to soak up and experience the city's mix of tourism, student life and pilgrim destination.
Santiago de Compostela is home to major cultural heritage and even more important hidden gems that make it a unique city:
Plaza del Obradoiro square
A social and institutional symbol, it is not only the final stop on Saint James' Way but also where the different state powers are represented through the marvellous architectural combination. The imposing cathedral was begun in the 11th century in a Romanesque style but was later extended with Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance features including the Gloria Portico and the cloister. The Archbishop's Palace is a must-see, right next to the cathedral, with its different rooms, courtyards and vaults. The Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, the former pilgrim's hospice which, like the rest of the city, gradually transformed over time is today a National Parador Hotel. San Xerome College, a precursor to today's university, was originally built by Bishop Fonseca to house poor students. The Neoclassical-style Town Hall, the last building to be constructed in the square and enclose the space definitively, is home to the President's Office of the Galician Regional Government.
The University
Santiago de Compostela is inherently linked to pilgrims and students, both having transformed the city into an essential stop for any traveller. In turn, the history of the university is intimately linked to the city's history where, at the end of the 15th century, a small college was founded to provide language classes to children from poor backgrounds. The initiative was successful over the years and the facilities were extended until 1504 when Diego III de Muros won a papal bull to offer higher education courses. Since then, and for over 500 years, the USC has been a prestigious institution, renowned around the world. In addition to its undeniable academic excellence, it also populates the streets with students and 'Tuna' period music troupes.
The Old Town
The maze-like centre of Santiago overflows with life day and night: cobbled streets, historical buildings, aristocratic palaces, hidden monasteries, hostels for pilgrims, shops, restaurants, leisure spots, markets and bazaars all comprise the beating heart of a city that goes to bed in the early hours and rises with the first rays illuminating the Apostle. Aimlessly wandering the old town is akin to travelling back in time - close your eyes for a second and when you open them again, you soon realise that life continues as it has over the ages. Strolling the streets is a unique experience where we all end up finding our own special place and where a bustling routine has continued every day since mediaeval times.
The Vantage Points
Experiencing the real Santiago means wandering the streets although for one of the best views over the centre, you need to head beyond the walls of the old town towards one of the parks that surround the city. La Alameda Park is in the east end where the benches immortalise the best sunsets over the cathedral. Belvís Park is in the west, next to the Albergue del Seminario Menor hostel, and offers views over the old town in all its splendour. Mount Gaiás lies to the south and is home to the immense Galician City of Culture. One of the best vantage points in the centre is from the terrace at the Faculty of History and Geography, offering astounding panoramic views over the surrounding area of Santiago.
The Locals
The city's old town is a World Heritage Site although its true value lies in its local people who, over the years, have spread the city's renown across the globe. Originally farm labourers and dedicated to country life, the city's people have changed over time, opening shops, setting up businesses but always remaining modest folk, ready to help others without asking for anything in return. Throughout the ages, Santiago de Compostela has been the birthplace of illustrious figures such as the great poetess Rosalía de Castro, Archbishop Fonseca, a precursor in establishing the university, or the surgeon Gómez Ulla, Chair of the Professional Medical Association; nonetheless, it is the unknown locals who continue to be the true heart of the city and its best heritage.
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more infoReykjavik – the World’s Northernmost Capital City
Nearly two thirds of Iceland’s inhabitants live in the capital, Reykjavik, regarded as one of the greenest, cleanest and safest cities on the planet. In winter, there are hardly 4 hours of sunlight a day. On the contrary, if you happen to visit it around the summer solstice, you will find yourself in a city where the sun never completely sets at all. This enables tourists to make the most of their time in Iceland’s capital city, before embarking on the customary trip around the Icelandic Ring Road which skirts the whole island.
The major sightseeing area in Reykjavik is the western district of Miðborg, the city’s historical centre. Hljómskálagarður park, with its Tjörnin lake, is a good starting point, as you can sit on a bench and get your bearings on a map before venturing out on a walking route which will take you to the most interesting places in the city. At one end of the lake stands Iceland University (Háskóli Íslands) while, if you cross the bridge over it, you come to the National Gallery of Iceland, housing exhibits by the country’s most famous artists and a performance centre for traditional Icelandic culture. Standing next to it is the Reykjavik Free Church, founded in 1899, an alternative to the National Lutheran Church.
Iceland’s Parliament, known as the Alþingi, is located just a few blocks away. Built of dressed stone, it dates from 1881, although the institution itself goes back to the year 930 and is one of the oldest elected assemblies in the world.
Time for a Snack
Whether in summer or winter, one’s notion of time is somewhat warped in Iceland, on account of the marked changes in daylight hours. If there is one thing sacred in life it is snacking and Reykjavik is no exception. Heading along Lækjargata street, you come across the striking Harpa concert and conference hall, but press on towards the city’s harbour. Shortly before arriving, you pass by one of the must-see sights of the city, a hotdog stand known as Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. Alright – we know it’s just a boiled sausage served in a typical bun smothered in various sauces, and it’s eaten outdoors, but at number 1 Tryggvagata street hundreds of sausages are served every day and long queues build up at the hotdog stand. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular gastronomic customs in Reykjavik and the most famous sausage in Iceland.
After building up your strength, it is time to continue exploring the city. The harbour is divided between the districts of Miðborg and Vesturbær. The latter is home to the Vikin Maritime Museum in which cod fishing is accorded special importance. You can taste Icelandic codfish in one of the restaurants in the harbour area, as well as other typical dishes such as lobster soup, salmon and lamb. To round off the experience, you can hire a fishing rod and while away the afternoon, or set sail on a whale-sighting excursion in Faxaflói bay.
The main area with bars is Austurstræti street and environs, while the shopping area is scattered along Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur street. Prominent among the stores selling garments, design and food is the Álafoss wool store, the best known and traditional Icelandic wool brand. Here you can also purchase a typical Icelandic jersey, known as a Lopapeysa.
Before nightfall, you should wrap up your visit by taking in the best views of the city, which are afforded by the vantage point that is Hallgrímskirkja Church. Access to the belfry costs ISK 600 (about €4), but it is well worth the price. You could end off the day in an inviting pop-up restaurant where you can taste a peculiar fusion between Basque and Icelandic cuisine. Sumendi, as it is called, organises several dinners during the year.
If you make the journey in summer, the sun will be a constant throughout your stay, so you’d best wind up the day at the famous sculpture known as Sólfar (The Sun Voyager), evocative of places to be discovered and countries to be seen, like those Vueling brings you close to through its air routes.
Haritz Rodriguez is a travel journalist and blogger with over 17 years’ experience in radio, television, press and internet. He is an editor of Tokitan.tv and director of the Barking Blogs communication studio.
Text, images and video by Haritz Rodriguez, of Barking Blogs
more infoMálaga An Art Laden Holy Week Break
Málaga’s Holy Week is among the most popular in Spain. Each year it draws some five million tourists eager to succumb both to the city’s charms and the magical extravaganza of this festivity, a blend of the religious, traditional and cultural. Designated a Tourist Interest Site on 16 February 1980 and dating back to the time of the Catholic Kings, Holy Week in Málaga is an obligatory event for anyone wishing to experience first-hand a unique spectacle, guaranteed to move even the die-hards.
Apart from the traditional features of Holy Week, anyone coming to Málaga at this time of year can take the opportunity to visit some of the numerous museums and art centres here, some of them recently inaugurated, to delight in the plethora of art on display. Following is our selection of the most prominent exhibitions open to the public during the festive week in Málaga.
Picasso Museum of Málaga
The city of Málaga is inextricably linked to the figure of Picasso as it was here that he was born. Part of the art genius’ legacy is preserved here – specifically, the Picasso Museum of Málaga houses 285 of his works, spanning 80 years of his career, from 1892 to 1972. Imperative, therefore, to visit the Buenavista Palace, home to the collection on public display. Those of you who can afford to visit Málaga later on in the year, take note that from 26 April to 17 September you can also see the exhibition, Bacon, Freud and the School of London, a joint endeavour with the Tate Britain.
Carmen Thyssen Museum
Another must-visit collection in Málaga is housed in the Carmen Thyssen Museum. Located in the Villalón Palace, it is essentially a review of the various genres in 19th-century Spanish painting. In addition to the permanent exhibition, during Holy Week you can also see La apariencia de lo real. Cincuenta años de arte realista en España (1960-2010), an exhibition which features a converging perspective between contemporary Spanish realism and the tradition of Baroque naturalism. Another option to consider is the exhibition Japan. Prints and Art Objects, which runs until 23 April and showcases a selection of exhibits from traditional Japanese art, most of them on loan from the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum.
Centre Pompidou, Málaga
Another of the city’s major attractions is the Centre Pompidou, Málaga. Opened in March 2015, its collection provides an interesting journey through 20th- and 21st-century art. Additionally, from 23 March to 23 April, the Centre will be hosting the second edition of Hors Pistes. Entitled Travesías marítimas, this exhibition explores shipping routes and the impact they have had in the field of art and motion images.
Russian Museum Collection
The building which once housed the Real Fábrica de Tabacos de Málaga (tobacco factory) is the site of this magnificent temporary exhibition, on loan from the State Russian Museum of Saint Petersburg. Apart from the annual temporary exhibition devoted to The Romanov Dynasty, until 16 July you can also see the exhibition Kandinsky and Russia, which delves into the Russian period of this forerunner of abstract painting and iconic figure of 20th-century art.
Málaga Museum
One of the more recent additions to a city which is seeing a boom in its cultural offerings is the Málaga Museum, housed in the Neoclassical Palace of La Aduana. Inaugurated on 12 December 2016 after a remodelling project that took 10 years to complete, the Museum has on display 2,200 exhibits of a total of 17,500 making up its two collections. This comprises 2,000 exhibits from the overall 15,000 listed in the Provincial Archeological Museum, and a further 200 out of a total of 2,000 from the Provincial Fine Arts Museum. This is a first for a city which you should make a point of visiting!
Book your Vueling to Málaga and indulge in what promises to be an unforgettable Holy Week, thanks to its emotionally charged processions and the magnificent offerings of its art museums.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Epizentrum
more infoJerusalem Holy Sites
A Spanish Christian, New York Jew and Pakistani Muslim might seem to have little in common but, if we dig deeper into their cultural past, the city of Jerusalem is the fundamental origin of all three religions. This is the site where Jesus was crucified, where Solomon built his temple and where Muhammad went on his Night Journey. Far removed from the opulence of European cathedrals, Jerusalem’s places of worship are sheer simplicity. Christians, Jews and Muslims coexist in the narrow streets of Jerusalem’s Old City, an amalgam of religions which often leads to disputes and conflict. In short, Jerusalem is synonymous with religion.
The Via Dolorosa
The Via Dolorosa is the Way of the Cross along which Christ walked to the Crucifixion after being judged. The site of the 14 Stations of the Cross has changed over time and the route has also varied. Thousands of pilgrims make their way along the Via Dolorosa when visiting the city. The route starts at the Antonia Fortress and proceeds along King David Street, crossing the Main Souq and ending at Golgotha, the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where the Crucifixion and burial of Christ are assumed to have taken place.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Holy Sepulchre is the last Station on the Via Dolorosa and it is here that Christ was buried in a tomb belonging to Joseph of Arimathea. The original basilica was commissioned by the Emperor Constantine between 335 and 326 BC. After being destroyed several times and being gutted by fires and earthquakes, the church we see today is uneven in appearance and has several chapels and other spaces. In all, the church belongs to seven different Christian denominations, all of whom manage their own chapels, as well as the common areas. The two holiest sites in the church are Golgotha, where Christ was crucified – a spot you come across on entering the precinct – and Christ’s tomb.
The Wailing Wall
Possibly one of the most emblematic spots in Jerusalem, the Wailing Wall is the holiest site in Judaism. Thousands of Jews pray each day at the Wailing Wall, while both locals and tourists stuff notes bearing petitions and wishes between the stones. The Wall was once part of the retaining perimeter wall of the platform on which the Temple stood and is the closest spot to the Holy of Holies in that building – hence its importance to Jews.
Haram Ash-Sharif
This vast esplanade houses Jerusalem’s most striking building, the Dome of the Rock. Tradition has it that this is the spot where Solomon’s Temple and the Second Temple both stood. This area on the south-east side of the Old City became a Muslim holy site when the Dome of the Rock was built in AD 691. Various other buildings have been erected since then and this is now the third most sacred Islamic shrine in the world. Standing alongside the Dome of the Rock is the other important building in the precinct, the Mosque of Al-Aqsa. Built in the 8th century AD, it is the main place of worship for Muslims in Jerusalem. Unfortunately, after the Second Intifada in the year 2000, only Muslims are allowed to enter these buildings, but at certain times the esplanade is open to everyone, so the mosques can be observed from the outside.
Mount of Olives
The Mount of Olives lies on the east side of the Old City. It is the site of one of the oldest cemeteries in the world, as it has been in continuous use since the third millennium BC. Various places of worship stand here, notably the Chapel of the Ascension, built on the spot where Jesus ascended into Heaven, the Tomb of the Virgin Mary and, in the Garden of Gethsemane, the Basilica of Agony, the site where Christ prayed before being arrested.
Mount Zion
Mount Zion lies alongside the Mount of Olives. This mount is closely linked to The Last Supper and to King David, who is believed to be buried here. Hence it is holy to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. Following the death of Christ, the disciples started meeting here to pray in the Room of the Last Supper. Subsequently, they gathered around the stone where the Virgin Mary is said to have died. This is the site of the Abbey of the Dormition, commissioned by Kaiser Wilhelm II in the early 20th century.
Be sure to visit Jerusalem’s Holy Sites, as well as the rest of the city – check out our flights here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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