The Picos de Europa National Park was Spain’s first protected nature reserve. Situated in the centre of the Cordillera Cantábrica range, it is now a listed by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve and is undoubtedly one of the loveliest spots in all Spain. The area offers an endless variety of activities, notably a visit to the Virgen de la Salud sanctuary where a traditional shrine festival is held every year. It is attended by large numbers of shrine pilgrims from the Lebaniega district. Other destinations include an outing to the Cabaña Verónica, or to Las Manforas mines. We have to limit our scope, so we shall propose just two readily accessible routes to give you time to enjoy these wonderful landscapes. And, the best thing about it is that this paradise getaway is just over an hour’s journey from Santander.

The Road to Espinama – Accessing the Central Massif

The trail starts at the Hotel Áliva, some 4 km from the upper level of the Fuente Dé cableway. From there, you take the Montaña footpath which leads down on the left. On your way down, you will come to a turning on the left which leads to Sostres, followed by a turn-off to the Ermita de la Salud. The path winds down into the Nevandi river valley, which acts as a boundary between the Macizo Oriental and Macizo Central (Eastern and Central Massifs). You then come to the Invernales de Igüedri, where you catch a glimpse of the southern arête of the Pico Valdecoro (1,841 m). You will recognise the invernales because in the centre is a large concentration of stone barns dotting the southwestern slopes of Castro Cogollos.

The trail ends in the streets of Espinama. In all, the descent starts at an altitude of 1,600 metres and ends at the 900-metre level. After leaving behind the most rugged landscape, the mountain pass and meadows for summer grazing come into view. You finally reach Espinama, in the municipality and valley of Camaleño, one of the major points of access to the Central Massif of the Picos de Europa. This trail is a pleasure on the senses – you will not require a filter for any of your pictures.

Recommendations:

This trail is very easy, although the descent is abrupt and can take its toll on one’s knees. The worst part is having to make the 3.5 kilometre stretch from Espinama to Fuente Dé, if you’ve parked your car there. A good remedy is to take one of the mountain taxis in Espinama.

Start: Hotel Áliva
Destination: Espinama
Duration: 2 hours 30 min.
Difficulty: low
All ages

Rendezvous with History in Mogrovejo

Mogrovejo is well worth the visit. The village has an intense history and is designated as a Historic Rural Complex, said to be among the best preserved in all Liébana. It is also claimed to be the birthplace of St Turibius, the relic bearer, Bishop of Astorga, Lord of Mogrovejo and Don Pelayo’s deputy. And of another St Turibius, from the 16th century, who became Bishop of Lima. A tower in the village overlooks the valley and is flanked by the Picos. The illustrious Toledan poet, Garcilaso de la Vega, a luminary of Spain’s Golden Age, also descends from the house of Laso de la Vega there.

This trail also starts at the Hotel Áliva. You take the path down to Espinama as far as the Portillas del Boquejón, where you come to the third turn-off on the left. If you follow that path, you come to Pembes, where the Virgen de la Salud is paraded in winter. If you take the other turning on the left, you come to Llaves, providing access to another trail leading to Mogrovejo.

This route affords splendid views of the Puertos de Río Cubo (Cosgaya) and the Puertos de Espinama, where the livestock that grazes on the Áliva mountain passes is led in late July.

Start: Hotel Áliva
Destination: Mogrovejo
Duration: 2 hours 30 min.
Difficulty: low
All ages

Hotel Áliva

Hotel Áliva, located on the upper level of the Fuente Dé cableway, in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, is a family hotel surrounded by mountains, meadows and captivating scenery. It is framed by the lofty Picos de Europa mountains which will leave no one impassive. The silence, broken only by the clinking of the bells worn by livestock grazing nearby, makes for a pleasurable stay, if what you’re seeking is to switch off and relax. The location is also ideal for going on excursions into the Park.

It also has a restaurant featuring the stews so typical of Cantabrian cuisine and locally sourced meat, making for a great meal to round off a day in the wild. The menu is based on carefully prepared dishes made with local produce from the Liébana district.

The hotel is the ideal place for switching off and soaking up the peacefulness of the mountainside. Hikers have an endless choice of trails around the hotel. It has a capacity of 70 in rooms sleeping two, four and even six guests. Telephone: 942 730 999 (From 8 a.m. to 12 p.m.).

Why wait to indulge in these natural surroundings? Check out our flights to Santander here.

Text and images by Turismo de Cantabria

Seville is home to a special colour, wonderful people, genuine bars and well kept secrets like the Market in calle Feria. Seville is brimming with magic, charm, spirit and Andalusian pride like very few other Mediterranean cities. Everyone who lives there feels very proud to be Sevillian and would never swap their city for any other. It doesn’t matter if you are a native of Seville or have just arrived from another part of the world, the important thing is to be Sevillian, to feel like a Sevillian and to die a Sevillian.

Let’s discover a part of Seville recommended to us by the festival organisers Territorios Sevilla, the Seville of the Encarnación district, the Market in calle Feria.

1. Plaza de la Encarnación

We start in the Plaza de la Encarnación, known locally as “plaza de la seta” (mushroom square).
On the day we visited and just like in many other squares in other Spanish cities, a silent and peaceful protest was taking place by the so-called 15-M movement. The Sevillians are proud of this square to which they have given the nickname ‘la plaza de la seta’ and it is the gateway to the Encarnación district. We head to the market in calle Feria because Maider from Territorios Sevilla has recommended it as the perfect spot to savour the local tapas. The area is very well known amongst Seville’s local population and it is off the usual beaten tourist tracks.

2. Reinas

As we head in the direction of the market, we stumble across a place that forces us to make a stop. The place in question is called Reinas and has a very stylish type of wine cellar. We chat with Antonio who tells us a little bit about the philosophy of Reinas. The general concept is to suggest good wines and offer cold dishes that complement the wine being recommended. At Reinas, it is the wine that defines the food – not the other way around. Antonio is a lover of wine and food and it could be said he belongs to the good living club.

3.Un Gato en Bicicleta

Continuing along the same street a bit further on we come across a book shop specialising in art: Un Gato en Bicicleta.

4. Botellas y Latas

It seems like we have embarked on a journey down the perfect street, two special places within metres of each other. This is confirmed when just a little way further down the street we find Botellas y Latas and between the owner Carlos and his local Sevillian customers, we learn about the marvels of the place: Botellas y Latas is another of Seville’s hidden treasures definitely worth a visit.

5. Casa Vizcaíno

Between the warmth of the Sevillian people and the heat of the sun, a stop for a cool beer en route to the calle Feria Market is an absolute must. Casa Vizcaíno is the ideal spot to try an Andalusian beer. The place is spectacular with its carpet of peanut shells on the floor, thus making it as one of those highly recommendable, traditional bars to be found in the Andalusian capital.

6. Mercado de la Calle Feria

Finally we arrive at the Calle Feria Market and it seems like we have found the perfect location to eat in Seville. Good food, warm people, welcoming surroundings, informal and grilled sardines to die for. Worth mentioning is the stall we had something to eat at, the Bar La Cantina with its exquisite food, friendly service, wonderful terrace and the lovely warm ambience among its clientele.

The sun beats down and following the directions given to us by the locals, we return to the plaza de la Encarnación by a different route where we discover more authentic shops in the Andalusian capital, a good old fashioned chocolate shop called El Comercio and a charming square called la plaza del Pan where you can sit in the shade and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

Image: Liu Yu Cheng

 Why not take a trip to Sevilla? Have a look at our flights here!

Lanzarote is one of the most beautiful of the Canary Islands and La Graciosa, situated north-west of the latter, is one of its well-kept treasures. The two islands are separated by a strait known as El Río. The origin of the island’s name is not clear – some hold that it already existed before Lanzarote was added to the Crown of Castile following the expedition of the Norman conqueror, Jean de Béthencourt, in 1402. Whatever the case, its name is well deserved.

La Graciosa is the largest of the islands and islets that make up the so-called Chinijo Archipelago and its south side is dominated by extensive beaches of yellow sand, like La Cocina and La Francesa. Also located on the seaboard is its only two towns, Caleta de Sebo and Pedro Barba. Caleta de Sebo is the main population centre, while Pedro Barba is currently uninhabited. Like the rest of the Canary Islands, La Graciosa is volcanic in origin. Its highest peak is Las Agujas, which rises to 266 metres.

Chinijo Archipelago Marine Reserve

La Graciosa is part of the Chinijo Archipelago Marine Reserve. The word Chinijo, a local place-name meaning “small”, is usually applied to children here. With an area of 70,700 hectares, it is the largest marine reserve in Europe and is endowed with incalculable scenic value. This large reserve, which stretches between the towns of Teguise and Haría, comprises the islands of La Graciosa, Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste (also known as Roque del Infierno) and El Risco de Famara.

The biological wealth of La Graciosa  is immense. Some 304 species of marine macroalgae have been catalogued thus far, accounting for 53.15% of the Canary Islands’ overall flora. Indeed, it boasts the greatest diversity of macroalgae species in the archipelago.

The rich resources contained in these waters account for the abundance of marine birds which feed on them for their staple diet. The geopark is designated a Special Conservation Area for Birds (ZEPA, in Spanish). The most common bird species here is Cory's shearwater. Also in considerable numbers are some rare or endangered species such as the kestrel, barn owls, Eleonora's falcon and the guincho or osprey.

Another highly significant potential value of this Marine Reserve are the historical references regarding the presence here of the monk seal. This marine vertebrate, which is now an endangered species worldwide, survives thanks to the tranquility and biological wealth contained along these shores, pitted with sea caves and jameos (collapsed lava tunnels) where they take shelter and reproduce. Alegranza is currently one of the best suited spots for reintroducing the monk seal whose numbers have dwindled sharply due to poaching on the nearby Mauritanian and Mediterranean coasts.

Underwater Journey

Diving is becoming increasingly more popular on the island, which features three major diving spots. El Canal, located between Alegranza and Roque del Oeste, has a platform at a depth of 25-30 m and a pronounced, 35-40 metre fault containing a large amount of fauna. There are abundant populations of large-size grouper, island grouper and amberjack, as well as abundant violescent sea-whip, yellow sea-whip and white gorgonian. Another ideal diving area is Montaña Amarilla, in the south-west of La Graciosa near Punta del Pobre. A short distance from the shore is a berm which dips down 12 metres and becomes more perpendicular to the coastline the further offshore you swim, sloping into a 20-m chasm. This is densely populated with mainly common two-banded seabream, red mullet, barred hogfish and Mediterranean slipper lobster. As you approach the last area, Alegranza, a marked increase in coastal marine life becomes evident. Large crabs and limpets can be seen from the boat. Diving in these waters is a privilege, especially since the Marine Reserve came into being. To dive there, you need you first apply to the Canary Island government for the relevant permits.

One surprising feature of these underwater seascapes are the large colonies of sea-whip where the current is strong. They latch onto the rock and catch the nutrition that flows to them through the water. The ban on commercial fishing in this restricted area enables fish to reproduce freely, enriching these waters in quantity and variety. Such species as the wrass, which has disappeared in other areas, is prolific here, as is red mullet, eagerly searching for food on the more sandy seabeds.

Come along and dive in the depths of La Graciosa in the Chinijo Archipelago off Lanzarote. Check out our flights here.

Text and photos by Turismo Lanzarote

A Spanish Christian, New York Jew and Pakistani Muslim might seem to have little in common but, if we dig deeper into their cultural past, the city of Jerusalem is the fundamental origin of all three religions. This is the site where Jesus was crucified, where Solomon built his temple and where Muhammad went on his Night Journey. Far removed from the opulence of European cathedrals, Jerusalem’s places of worship are sheer simplicity. Christians, Jews and Muslims coexist in the narrow streets of Jerusalem’s Old City, an amalgam of religions which often leads to disputes and conflict. In short, Jerusalem is synonymous with religion.

The Via Dolorosa

The Via Dolorosa is the Way of the Cross along which Christ walked to the Crucifixion after being judged. The site of the 14 Stations of the Cross has changed over time and the route has also varied. Thousands of pilgrims make their way along the Via Dolorosa when visiting the city. The route starts at the Antonia Fortress and proceeds along King David Street, crossing the Main Souq and ending at Golgotha, the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where the Crucifixion and burial of Christ are assumed to have taken place.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Holy Sepulchre is the last Station on the Via Dolorosa and it is here that Christ was buried in a tomb belonging to Joseph of Arimathea. The original basilica was commissioned by the Emperor Constantine between 335 and 326 BC. After being destroyed several times and being gutted by fires and earthquakes, the church we see today is uneven in appearance and has several chapels and other spaces. In all, the church belongs to seven different Christian denominations, all of whom manage their own chapels, as well as the common areas. The two holiest sites in the church are Golgotha, where Christ was crucified – a spot you come across on entering the precinct – and Christ’s tomb.

The Wailing Wall

Possibly one of the most emblematic spots in Jerusalem, the Wailing Wall is the holiest site in Judaism. Thousands of Jews pray each day at the Wailing Wall, while both locals and tourists stuff notes bearing petitions and wishes between the stones. The Wall was once part of the retaining perimeter wall of the platform on which the Temple stood and is the closest spot to the Holy of Holies in that building – hence its importance to Jews.

Haram Ash-Sharif

This vast esplanade houses Jerusalem’s most striking building, the Dome of the Rock. Tradition has it that this is the spot where Solomon’s Temple and the Second Temple both stood. This area on the south-east side of the Old City became a Muslim holy site when the Dome of the Rock was built in AD 691. Various other buildings have been erected since then and this is now the third most sacred Islamic shrine in the world. Standing alongside the Dome of the Rock is the other important building in the precinct, the Mosque of Al-Aqsa. Built in the 8th century AD, it is the main place of worship for Muslims in Jerusalem. Unfortunately, after the Second Intifada in the year 2000, only Muslims are allowed to enter these buildings, but at certain times the esplanade is open to everyone, so the mosques can be observed from the outside.

Mount of Olives

The Mount of Olives lies on the east side of the Old City. It is the site of one of the oldest cemeteries in the world, as it has been in continuous use since the third millennium BC. Various places of worship stand here, notably the Chapel of the Ascension, built on the spot where Jesus ascended into Heaven, the Tomb of the Virgin Mary and, in the Garden of Gethsemane, the Basilica of Agony, the site where Christ prayed before being arrested.

Mount Zion

Mount Zion lies alongside the Mount of Olives. This mount is closely linked to The Last Supper and to King David, who is believed to be buried here. Hence it is holy to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. Following the death of Christ, the disciples started meeting here to pray in the Room of the Last Supper. Subsequently, they gathered around the stone where the Virgin Mary is said to have died. This is the site of the Abbey of the Dormition, commissioned by Kaiser Wilhelm II in the early 20th century.

Be sure to visit Jerusalem’s Holy Sites, as well as the rest of the city – check out our flights here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS