“Hypezig”, or How Leipzig was Overrun by Hipsters
When it comes to Germany’s underground, everyone thinks of grand Berlin with its hipsters strolling through Kreuzberg, especially when it was alternative and arty – now Neukölln has taken over – its endless art galleries, flohmarkts and variegated events staged on any derelict or decadent-looking site.
However, it might occur to a few of you that Hypezig – from “hype” and “Leipzig” – has become Berlin’s major rival in the last ten years. The city is ideal for soaking up street art or homing in on radically alternative galleries, far removed from the bustle of the capital and beyond the tourist trail. A city where throngs of students, artists and musicians have been mingling for a long time.
Mom, I Want to be an Artist in Hypezig!
Spinnerei
This former cotton mill – once the largest in Europe – is a paradise for any art lover. Nearly a hundred artists and many galleries coexist in this emblematic spot. And, if you happen to stop by, you should not miss the ASPN Galerie, headed by Arne Linde, as this was a beacon of Leipzig’s art scene when it first got off the ground. Also a must is the Galerie Kleindienst, the city’s “New Leipzig School” of artists involved with all kinds of media and materials. At the Spinnerei you will also come across small establishments offering creative products, as well as a cinema and a bistro to act as your watering hole.
Weißcube Galerie
This gallery, housed in a white cube in the middle of a Bauhaus villa garden, is a must-see landmark. Apart from providing viewers with a fine example of outsider art, the dialogue set up between the building’s architectural pieces and its surroundings will leave no one indifferent.
Ortloff Galerie
On display in this gallery are exhibits ranging from graphic design to sculptures, to installations of all types. Many of the exhibiting artists are graduates of the Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst Leipzig (HGB), the city’s visual arts faculty.
But, perhaps the best way to soak up the art is to stroll through Leipzig’s streets. When you least expect it, you are likely to turn a corner and bump into such works as “Mural of the peaceful revolution”, by Michael Fischer, or Blek Le Rat’s “Madonna and child” graffito, which was restored and placed behind a protective glass screen.
Dancing in the Night
And, since man does not live by art alone, getting into the swing of the city’s nightlife is a good way of rounding off the day.
Elipamanoke
This is one of the first locales to be opened in the east of Leipzig, an area characterised by its industrial past and transformed into one of the city’s hot districts. The underground parties in Elipamanoke move to the rhythm of minimal techno and house, although you can also hear drum’n’bass or electroswing.
Institut fuer Zukunft
Their rule forbidding taking photos and their access policy make this an exclusive club which prides itself on being an alternative to the current club scene. The lineup at Institut fuer Zukunft features local and international DJs who gift experimental sessions of house and techno. During the day, they host conferences and debates on gender, club culture and electronic music.
Villa Hasenholz
The best parties are usually held at venues that were not originally clubs. Thus, this kulturhaus and biergarten called Villa Hasenholz, which is also a residence for artists, hosts rave-ups of all kinds. Making use of either the interior or their outside garden, the premises can operate as a disco, a concert hall or a multi-purpose festival venue, outside the established circuit and idyllically located in a forest.
Leipzig is the ideal destination for a weekend getaway where you can steep yourself in a bohemian ambience of art and music. It is also one of the iconic cities for its classical music or for lazing in its parks and gardens, like the Clara-Zetkin-Park, where jazz is played every Sunday. But the city offers, above all, a markedly alternative Germany, alien to any stodgy clichés. It also brings home the fact that smaller cities such as Weimar, Dresden or Bremen are also likely to raise the eyebrows of more than one cosmopolitan hipster.
I’m sure you’re eager to plunge into the city’s cultural effervescence. Make haste – check out our flights to Leipzig here.
Text by Carmen Gómez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Elipamanoke, Institut fuer Zukunft, di.fe88, GlynLowe, Pfauenauge
more infoEight Places Not to Miss in Edinburgh
To start, let’s recall that Edinburgh is both a World Heritage Site and also the first place to be designated by UNESCO as a “City of Literature”, because of its numerous well-preserved buildings and monuments and its age-old literary traditions.
The city is best seen at a walking pace, and as a pedestrian you’ll find its hidden nooks and crannies and perchance the spirits of the city’s famed authors and even more famous creations, such as Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and his shrewd detective Sherlock Holmes, Robert Louis Stevenson and the two-faced Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, or Sir Walter Scott and his heroic Ivanhoe and Rob Roy characters. And there’s even a chance you’ll see some of the city’s literary figures in the flesh, for we shall start our tour in the café with the red façade where the contemporary author J. K. Rowling penned many of her early stories and planned her books about the boy wizard Harry Potter.
1. Few people noticed the young Rowling scribbling in her notebooks at a table in the unprepossessing Elephant House café. The establishment, which opened in 1995, remains a favourite of literary types, thanks to its selection of the city’s best coffees and teas, which continue to stain many pages of manuscript. Huge breakfasts are also served, as well as hot midday and evening meals, plus the usual sandwiches and cakes, etc. And there’s an excellent wine list, too. No excuse for not sitting down and writing your book!
2. Or you might prefer to take a stroll down Edinburgh’s legendary Royal Mile, linking the city’s two most popular monumental sites, Edinburgh Castle, standing above the city atop the towering volcanic basalt plug known as Castle Rock, and, at the other extreme, Holyrood Palace, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. A slow and attentive walk down the four stretches of the Royal Mile, called Castlehill, Lawn Market, High Street, and Canongate, will infuse you with the unique, friendly atmosphere and stony charm of this historical city.
3. If you appreciate the macabre, on your walk down the Royal Mile you must stop at Mary King’s Close, a warren of gloomy underground streets and enclosures widely believed to be haunted by the ghosts of the past. Once a thriving market, the close was named for a woman who lived there and traded in cloth in the early 1600s. According to urban legend, when the plague struck the area in 1645, the authorities walled it off, leaving scores of people inside to die. Since, then reports of strange lights and noises have fuelled beliefs that the zone remains haunted. Visitors often brings dolls to calm the ghost of the legendary Annie, a child plague victim thought to have been left by her parents to die in the Close, and whose heart-rending cries can still be heard. Perhaps.
4. For a Facebook-worthy selfie showing Edinburgh Castle in the background, the place to go is Princess Street, Edinburgh’s main shopping street, which featured in the 1996 film Trainspotting. Apart from the shopping opportunities there, the street happens to be the best place from which to capture a panoramic view of the castle, since there are no buildings on the castle side of the street, but only gardens and monuments.
5. If you’re looking for quirkier and more out-of-the-way shops, head for the wildly picturesque Victoria Street, a curving slope just off the Royal Mile that is a favourite of photographers because of its colourful specialised shops selling liquors, cheeses, handicrafts, and all sorts of treasures. You’re sure to find bargains in the several charity shops selling used clothing and other items, the proceeds from which are donated to worthy causes. Harry Potter’s creator J.K. Rowling acknowledged that this street was her inspiration for Diagon Alley, where her wizards bought their magical gear.
6. Edinburgh is not made entirely of stone, despite initial impressions. It also features expansive green zones, such as the parks of Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat, where the city’s joggers, cyclists, and dog-walkers go. Both offer fantastic views of the city from on high. The 251-metre Arthur’s Seat is the peak to which, according to legend, King Arthur used to repair when he needed time alone to think. Atop Calton Hill are two monuments to British victories over the French, Nelson’s Tower, commemorating the battle of Trafalgar, and Scotland’s National Monument, an unfinished construction modelled on the Parthenon in Athens, built in the 1820s to honour Scotland’s dead in the Napoleonic wars.
7. At Ocean Terminalin the Port of Leith, Edinburgh’s harbour, stands the Royal Yacht Britannia, used by the British royal family from 1954 until 1997 when it was converted into a floating museum that is well worth a visit –don’t miss the little bedroom where Queen Elizabeth II slept during her nearly 1,000 state voyages.
8. To finish up, you might visit Greyfriars Cemetery and have your picture taken next to the statue of one of Edinburgh’s heroes, Bobby, a Skye terrier traditionally believed to have stood watch by his master’s grave for no less than14 years, until his own death in 1873, after which he was buried next to his master.
Text and Photos: Nani Arenas
more infoThe Manhattan of Europe
By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine
Frankfurt on the Main, commonly known as Frankfurt, is one of the most important cities in Germany and one of Europe’s leading economic and financial centres.
Tradition and modernity live side by side in this German city on the banks of the River Main. Its skyline of metal and glass buildings is reminiscent of the famous views of Manhattan as seen from the Hudson River. Although modernity has made its mark on this Bavarian metropolis, many architectural treasures still remain of what was, centuries ago, one of the most important cities in the German empire.
A perfect symbiosis that endows Frankfurt on the Main with a timeless ambience, where conservative German style, contemporary architecture, classic European art and cutting edge design create a fusion that makes this city an ideal destination for all types of tourism.
From Haupbanhof, the city’s main station, we can explore almost the entire city without having to use public transport. As we stroll among Frankfurt’s modern building’s, the old city begins to make its presence felt ever more clearly with each step. Along the cobbled streets in the city centre, we discover magnificent examples of classic German architecture: balconies teeming with flowers, houses with red tile roofs and picturesque buildings that reflect the history of a Medieval city.
The main artery of the city is the Zeil and adjoining streets, all full of shops and shopping arcades. We recommend visiting Zeil Galerie, where we find shops like The Hub, a concept store offering such brands as Acne and Filippa K, as well as the boutique Balmain, Mathew Williamson and vintage articles at Moschino, Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake, among others. Another great option is Superette du design, a spectacular shop selling decorative items and gadgets, or Leonid Matthias, a multi-brand store with articles by both German and international designers. From the Zeil Galerie roof-top terrace, you can enjoy fabulous views over the city centre.
The city’s old quarter is home to many famous buildings, such as the former Römer city hall inRömerberg square, Hauptwache, Frankfurt opera house, St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the Stock Exchange guarded by a bronze bull and a bear that represent the ups and downs of the stock market. The historic city centre boasts modern, state-of-the-art buildings such as the European Central Bank and theMMK Museum of Modern Art, one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world. Its vast collection includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Pablo Picasso, Mario Merz, Jeff Wall, Marlene Dumas, Bruce Nauman… The museum is also home to the Club Michel City restaurant, offering a pop-art ambience, the perfect place to take a break and wind down.
On the banks of the River Main we find the museum area, popularly known as Museumufer (Museum Embankment) a series of ten wonderfully restored villas converted into cultural spaces, all with cafés, shops and extensive gardens. One of the finest is the Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts), where you can find fashion design and Asian decor alongside locally designed furniture from 1925 through to 1985. The museum also has a concept store and restaurant. Another great museum in Frankfurt is the Städel Art Museum, which houses one of the finest collections in Germany: Rembrandt, Edgar Degas, Johannes Vermeer, Botticcelli…along with other great masters.
One of the city’s greatest attractions must be the Frankfurter Skyline, which includes some of Europe’s tallest skyscrapers, towering over 331 metres. And some of the city’s bridges offer fabulous views of the sunset.
The Frankfurter Skyline encompasses over 26 skyscrapers, including: Commerzbank Towerdesignedby Norman Foster and at 259 m is considered the tallest building in Frankfurt and the second tallest in the European Union, although it is surpassed in height by Europaturm at 331m, but this observation tower is not generally regarded as a building as it has no consecutive floors that can be occupied.
It is also worth mentioning Westendtower, Opernturm, Tower 185 and Main Tower, the latter being one of the most visited by tourists (entrance charged) and has an excellent restaurant known as Main Tower Restaurant & Lounge.
The Eurotheum skyscraper is home to INNSIDE Frankfurt Eurothem, the ideal place to relax in the evening, located as from the 22nd floor and serving wonderful cocktails to the sound of live piano music while we marvel at the breathtaking views. A truly unique experience. While this hotel is quite incredible, those who are not too keen on heights and prefer a more relaxed atmosphere can stay at the vanguard hotel that is part of the same chain,INNSIDE Frankfurt Niederrad, just one stop from the main train station and the perfect place to relax and wind down after exploring the city.
Picture by Rubén Seco
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5 Essential Ideas for Madrid In Autumn
It never fails! In recent years, for one reason or another, I always seem to end up travelling to Madrid in autumn and the outcome has always been equally rewarding. The temperature is still pleasant for outdoor activities and, should the weather let you down, there is always a host of options to get you out of the rain and cold, with some incentives included. While this might sound overblown, the fact is that this city offers loads of ways of having a great time, leaving virtually no room for brooding. Here, then, are my basic recommendations for autumn in Madrid:
1. Go and see the leaves falling in one of the city’s numerous parks
Madrid has lots of parks where you can enjoy the good weather as it comes to a close, delighting in the scent of dry leaves and relishing the odd sunset. Among the great classics is El Retiro where, in addition to setting out in search of the popular statue known as the Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel), you can do sport, try to avoid getting wet in the Estanque Grande (Big Pond), see an exhibition at either the Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) or the Velázquez Palace, or even buy a book on the Cuesta de Moyano before going into the park. And all this just a stone’s throw from the city centre.
The Casa de Campo, Madrid’s great lung, is another good option. Apart from expanses where you can get some brisk exercise while enjoying nature, it also has an amusement park and a zoo, and a cable-car I would recommend you take up to see the views over the city.
As the last of the classics there is the Real Jardín Botánico (Royal Botanical Gardens), where you come face to face with some 5,000 different species of trees and plants, capable of transporting you anywhere on the planet.
For the swingers out there who seek a special, melancholic touch in your lives, the Jardín El Capricho is the spot for you. This romantic garden, built between 1787 and 1839, features lakes, boat jetties, a maze, sculpture groups and even the remains of a Civil War anti-aircraft shelter. It is located in the Alameda de Osuna and access is straightforward on the metro (L5, El Capricho station).
2. Bounce back from the early cold with a “cocido”
Hankering after a cocido? Autumn brings back a classic of Madrilenian cuisine – the cocido (stew), the best way of combating and guarding against the arrival of the cold in the city. Among my favourite eateries are the all-time greats like Lhardy (Carrera de San Jerónimo 8), Malacatín (Ruda 5) and La Bola (Bola 5). The cocido at the grass-roots Taberna J. Blanco (Tabernillas, 23) is a hit with me and my family on account of the original setting and the kindness of the owners.
3. Sweet things never made anyone bitter
There comes an afternoon when ice-cream suddenly cedes pride of place to pastries. That’s the moment to head for the Puerta del Sol, go into La Mallorquina and indulge in their huge variety of pastries. The standouts are their napolitana de crema and napolitana de chocolate. You could also stop by at the Horno de San Onofre to have some huesos de santo (saints’ bones) and buñuelos (fritters), the traditional confectionary at All Saints.
Croissant-lovers should not fail to try the ones to be had at Pomme Sucre, where success is guaranteed, aside from the touch of serving your coffee and hot chocolate in English porcelain cups. For those seeking new sensations there is the Moulin Chocolat, where they even dare to lavish French pastries with a flourish, and Mama Framboise, dedicated to gourmet patisserie in a modern, inviting setting.
And, of course, I couldn’t wind up this section without mentioning the popular chocolate con churros establishment, San Ginés, a must which has lost none of its shine and calories over the years.
4. Cultivating your mind
So, you’ve woken up to a rainy day? Now is the time to nourish your mind and soul on the city’s cultural offerings by dropping in on some of the host of scheduled exhibitions. This autumn, you can enjoy the work of Edvard Munch at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, steep yourself in the oeuvre of “The Divine (Luis de) Morales” and succumb to Ingres’ curvaceous Odalisque at the Prado. At the Museo Reina Sofía you get the chance to discover the work of Nasreen Mohamedi, one of the first Indian artists to embrace abstract art, while the Juan March Foundation is offering the first retrospective of the Swiss artist, Max Bill.
5. El Rastro – a Sunday outing up there with the best
A day at El Rastro is often the finishing touch to any Madrid tour. With the excuse of going bargain-hunting in the street stalls and shops, weeding out antiques, clothes, books, records and anything you can imagine, you are likely to end up just strolling around and being caught up in the prevailing atmosphere. The route usually comes to an end in one of the multiple de rigueur local bars, beer in hand, accompanied by a matching tapa. Among the many options, you should try the sardines at the Bar Santurce, the snails at Casa Amadeo, the tostas at Capricho Extremeño and the tapas at the Museo de la Radio.
Ready to take on autumn in Madrid? Book your Vueling here.
Text by Isabel Lucia | ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Felipe Gabaldón, Juan Antonio F. Segal, mcxurxo, pegatina1, Fernando Bueno
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