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Essentials of alicantinian gastronomy

Alicante is a synonym for Mediterranean cuisine and is not in vain that one of the best chefs worldwide, Ferran Adrià, said Alicante is, without question, the Spanish province where you eat better.

We love Mediterranean cuisine and this is why we want to offer a selection of 5 products that you have to try in Alicante, and we also advice you where to try them. Some of the products and restaurants might be missing, but take this approach to the gastronomy from Alicante as a starter. In this situation, a local would tell you: “anem a fer una picaeta” (a tradition from the little town of Alcoi, based in a round of tapas, toasts and little sandwiches).

Rice: The rice grows in Valencia and cooks in Alicante, or so it goes in a popular saying. If we want to fully discover the cuisine from Alicante, we must try paella at Restaurante Casa Riquelme. In paellas you can find all kind of ingredients, from fish and seafood to fresh products grown in the fields of the country, accompanied by chicken, rabbit or even snails. Eating at Casa Riquelme (Vázquez de Mella, 17), any midday from Wednesday to Sunday, is a synonym for fine dining. Find more information in this link

Wines: With its own protected designation of origin since mid-20th century. In Alicante you can taste a wine that mixes two kind of grapes, original from the region: monastrell and moscatel. The mistelle wine is original from this land. At Bodega de Meyos (Avenida Condomina, 40) in Alicante we can taste wine by the glass and accompany it with good food, all for a very fair price. We can also buy wine bottles; in fact this was originally a wine shop. 

Horchata: In hot weather, is common to see locals tasting a horchata in any terrace. This precious beverage made of tigernuts (chufas) is one of the most exported products. Don’t forget to go to Horchatería Azul (Calderón de la Barca, 36) to drink this refreshment and accompany it of fartons or the delicious almond pastry (coca de almendras). It’s closed on winter, but is considered for many people the best horchatería in Alicante, a traditional place.

Nougats: Another product Alicante is well known for. This is one of the main products to eat on Christmas, in Spain, and is always in the dinning table with the own local varieties: Jijona nougat and Alicante nougat. If you are in Alicante, try them at Espí (Avenida Alfonso X el Sabio, 4) and, if you want to make a very good impression, buy some as a gift for the upcoming Christmas time.

Pastry: cocas de tonyina (a fine pie stuffed with tuna) are very typical food for the Hogueras de San Juan, on the summer solstice. We can eat them at La Ibense (Calle de Portugal, 38), not only on summer. In this place you can also try delicious pizza portions or the traditional pastry (coca de mollita) with chocolate.

We could continue with other typical products of the region, like the worldwide known stuffed olives from Alcoi o the chocolate Valor, but we can keep that for upcoming gastronomic visits.

For now, as locals in Alicante say: “que aprofite”!!!!

Image from Les Haines

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The tasty Canarian sauce is called Mojo picon

Fuerteventura’s cuisine is as contrasted as their landscapes. A cuisine based on simple but very tasty products with a culinary tradition that goes back centuries. It has taken advantage like no other the agricultural and livestock resources and has preserved the traditions for processing. It is the case of "gofio amasado", the diet of the ancient inhabitants of the island that has been developed with flour from grain toast from long ago.

The typical dishes are the papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes)-a variety smaller than the common boiled with salt until the skin is wrinkled-, and served with a spicy sauce called Mojo. The word comes from the Portuguese molho, which means just gravy. There are generally two types of mojo: green prepared with green pepper and that is usually accompanies fish and the red mojo, with paprika that gives meat flavor.

The Majorero Cheese is elaborated in Fuerteventura, one of the most popular cheeses everywhere because of its very aromatic milk fat that majorera goats produce roaming freely around the fields.

Between the products of the land stands out the majorero tomato, grown with care in a fertile land with volcanic stones, which give an intense flavor and a great consistency and color.

But its flagship product comes from the sea. The fish is prepared in Fuerteventura in every conceivable ways: fried, roasted, sauteed or cooked and in classic recipes such as the Sancorcho, that you definitely have to try if you visit the island.

The commitment to sustainable fisheries has been successful and has allowed the proliferation of many species. Some typical are the amberjack, the dentex, the red fula , the “morena” or red pomfret, that you'll find really fresh in their restaurants.

To have a good meal in Fuerteventura, you should get away from the tourist areas and into the island. In small towns of the interior, it is still possible to find places to try truly traditional food.

To have a good meal in Fuerteventura, you should get away from the tourist areas and into the island. In small towns of the interior, it is still possible to find places to try truly traditional food.

Casa Isaítas
Calle Guize 7, Pájara
www.casaisaitas.com

Great majorera cuisine based in fresh and seasonal products. Try the local cheese, salads with products from the garden, the grilled cheese with green mojo, goat meat with sauce or a version of a dish, as it is the Ropa Vieja, but vegetarian to please everyone. To have between stone walls or in its interior and enjoy the best majorero environment.

Restaurante la Playita
Muelle Chico, La Oliva

From the sea to the stove. This area is rich in fish and at the Playita Restaurant they prepare them great. Try "la cabrita", deeply fried with good oil and from wich you can eat everything from the head and bones. And with stunning views to the sea as it is practically on the sand of the beach.

Casa Santa María
Plaza de Santa María, Betancuria

A farmhouse from the XVII century now restored and converted into a restaurant that has been awarded as the most beautiful of the island. In the historical center of Betancuria you will find this cuisine that blends traditional and experimental. Try the house specialty, the roasted kid.

Casa del Queso
Betancuria

There is also an ideal place for a quick stop and to try some of the specialties of the island in Betacuria. The Cheese House is a small venue that is located off Betancuria on the way to Pajara where you can taste the cheeses that are made in the village. If you're interested, they will explain the features of each, and if you want to take a piece home, they will vacuum pack it for you.

Picture mojo verde by Abhay Kumar | Mojo rojo by Fernando Carmona Gonzalez | Sancorcho by Canario1

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Rome’s Other Churches

They call it “The Eternal City”. The fact is that Rome still dwells in a historical limbo typified by a coexistence between Etruscan, Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and even Fascist vestiges. In this cradle of our civilisation and hub of the Catholic religion, monuments like the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Forum and the Pantheon are visited by millions of tourists each year. But, other jewels known to far fewer visitors also lie concealed in this great city. We roamed its most emblematic quarters and discovered the twelve most spectacular yet little known churches.

Trastevere

Here, tourists and locals jostle about one of the city’s liveliest, most characterful quarters. Here, too, stand some of Rome’s most fascinating medieval churches, in particular, Santa Maria in Trastevere.

1. San Francesco a Ripa – Bernini’s Other Ecstasy
Piazza di San Francesco d’Assisi 88

Possibly Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s best known work is the Ecstasy of St  Theresa. However, what many are unaware of is that a church in the very heart of Trastevere conceals another ecstasy by this artist. The church in question is San Francesco a Ripa, home to his Blessed Ludovica Albertoni, a masterpiece in marble which you are sure to enthuse over. The church is also famous for having been built on the former site of a hospice where St Francis of Assisi lodged during his visit to Rome in 1219. Indeed, his crucifix and stone pillow can still be seen in the cell where he stayed.

Piazza Navona

The Piazza Navona, one of the great works of the Italian Baroque, is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, hence its oval shape. The area features myriad vestiges of Borromini, Bramante and Bernini in the guise of fountains, churches and palaces. With a lively atmosphere during the day and by night, this is one of the best spots to take the city’s pulse.

2. Santa Maria della Pace – Bramante’s Proportions
Vicolo del Arco della Pace 5

This superb church was designed by Baccio Pontelli in the second half of the 15th century and includes a cloister by Bramante from the year 1504. Here, the great Italian architect applied the rules of classical proportions to generate an effect of spaciousness in an otherwise small area.

Campo de’ Fiori

The streets in this quarter have preserved their medieval atmosphere and sited here is one of Europe’s most famous open-air markets. It was a centre of the Renaissance, featuring buildings such as the Palazzo Farnese and Palazza Spada. Wandering through its streets, we came across the colourful Jewish ghetto, the Roman Theatre of Marcellus and the surprising Portico of Octavia.

3. San Girolamo della Carità – A Baroque Festival
Via de Monserrato 62A

This church is located near the church of Santa Maria in Monserrato degli Spagnoli, on the spot where St Filippo Neri lived. It houses the stunning Spada Chapel, which is well worth the visit. Designed by Borromini, it is an ode to the Italian Baroque, with statues, marble- and jasper-veined panels and all kinds of gilt decoration simulating curtains and flowered damasks.

Esquilino

Esquilino is the largest of Rome’s seven hills and a quarter which still retains much of its original character. Roman vestiges are in evidence in many spots, noteworthy being the ruins of the Baths of Trajan and the Domus Aurea. However, if it stands our for anything it is for its numerous churches, some of them built in private homes.

4. Santa Bibiana
Via Giovanni Giolitti 154

The simple facade of Santa Bibiana was Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s first architectural commission. The building houses the remains of St Bibiana, who was scourged to death with leaded thongs in Roman times. The small pillar inside the church is believed to be where the martyr was tortured. The interior also features a marble statue of the saint sculpted by Bernini himself. Interestingly enough, it was the first clothed figure sculpted by the Neapolitan artist.

5. Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede 9A

The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, a celebrated gem of Byzantine art, houses one of Rome’s most interesting mosaic ensembles. The church was commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century, on the site of a former oratory from the 2nd century. While it has undergone alterations, its original medieval structure is still visible. The central nave contains a well where tradition has it St Praxedes buried the remains of 2,000 martyrs. Pride of place, however, goes to the beautiful mosaics, depicting saints, animals, palm trees and poppies. The church also contains part of a column, brought here from Jerusalem, to which Christ is said to have been tied and scourged.

Lateran

The Lateran Palace, the papal residence during the Middle Ages, stands next to one of the most spectacular churches in Rome, St John in Lateran.

6. Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14

Many sightseers overlook this spot when visiting St John in Lateran. The building, designed by Domenico Fontana, houses the two remaining vestiges of the Lateran Palace, namely the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum. The former is a set of 28 steps where, according to tradition, Christ walked up to Pilate’s residence before being tried. They were brought from Jerusalem by the mother of Emperor Constantine, St Helena, and ordered to be placed in this spot by Pope Sixtus V  when the Lateran Palace was destroyed. The steps are considered holy and an object of pilgrimage, so that visitors are only allowed to ascend them on their knees. At the top of the stairs is the Sancta Sanctorum containing a painting which was allegedly executed by St Luke with the assistance of an angel.

7. Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

While now very different in appearance, the original church was founded by St Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, in the year 320 AD. It houses relics from Christ’s Crucifixion. The crypt contains a statue of St Helena which had originally been unearthed in the Ostia archaeological site. The tomb of Cardinal Quiñones, confessor to Charles I of Spain, was sculpted by Sansovino.

8. Santo Stefano Rotondo
Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7

St Stephen in the Round is one of the oldest churches in Rome. Founded in 468 AD, its striking circular ground plan is difficult to forget. The four side chapels house part of the original medieval frescoes, while the standout feature is a 7th-century mosaic depicting Jesus with SS Felician and Primus.

Caracalla

The spectacular ruins of the Baths of Caracalla have long been the main attraction in this part of the city which is ideal for strolling in. What in Roman times was a residential area now boasts many green zones and affords views of the Roman wall and the Porta San Sebastiano, one of Rome’s best preserved gates.

9. Santa Maria in Domnica
Piazza della Navicella 2

Dating from the 7th century, the church is thought to have been built on the site of a former fire station. It is well worth getting to this eminently untouristic church to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Don’t miss the stunning mosaic in the apse, commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century.

10. San Giorgio in Velabro
Via Velabro 19

Primitive in appearance, this church was inexplicably targeted by a terrorist attack in July 1993 which destroyed the portico and tympanum. They were restored and no signs of the attack remain. Noteworthy in the apse is a fresco by Pietro Cavallini. A prominent feature in one corner of the facade is the Arco degli Argentari, dedicated to Emperor Septimius Severus in 204 AD.

11. Santa Sabina
Piazza Pietro d’Illiria 1

Like San Giorgio in Velabro, this is one of Rome’s churches that best preserves the Christian basilica layout. It features a pulpit, choir and 16th-century throne, while the windows illuminate a nave graced with exquisite Corinthian columns. The doors in the side portico, with carvings depicting Biblical scenes, date from the 5th century.

Environs of Rome

The catacombs, Via Appia Antica and Borghese Gallery are located beyond the city centre.

12. Santa Costanza
Via Nomentana 349

Inspired by circular-plan churches such as the Palatine Chapel at Aachen, or Santo Stefano Rotondo, Santa Costanza is one of the early Christian jewels. Originally built as a mausoleum for the daughters of Constantine the Great, the 12 columns supporting the vault are a veritable feat of engineering. A replica of the Costanza sarcophagus housed in the Vatican Museum is set in a niche.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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Asturias – A Model Paradise

Here are some routes we have planned around these exemplary villages:

Eastern Charm – First Stopover

Our unique, Asturian cultural itinerary starts at the easternmost village, San Esteban de Cuñaba, with its high-mountain scenery, footpaths, houses and inhabitants. From here, you can also get a view of the Picos de Europa, the first national park in Spain. It is renowned for its shepherding community which has been living here for hundreds of years. They make such cheeses as Gamonéu and Cabrales, celebrated gems on the international cheese map. The village of Porrúa (Llanes), for its part, is the veritable guardian of Asturian traditions. It features an Ethnographic Museum which records much of these, as well as the Mercáu Astur, a bagpipe ensemble called El Llacín and the bucolic Llanisco village landscape facing both the sea and the Picos de Europa mountains.

From Apple Groves to Cider – Food and Shelter

Both Villaviciosa and Nava have large stretches of pomaradas or apple groves, as well as llagares – places where cider is made and gastronomic festivals called espichas are held–and chigres, typical bars or restaurants offering dishes based on the Asturian tradition. As if that isn’t enough, in Nava we also find the Museo de la Sidra (Cider Museum) where we can steep ourselves in the enthralling universe of cider. At Sariego, another award-winning village, we can taste good cider and haute cuisine. If we take the pilgrim’s walk along the road to Santiago, here we’ll be treated to the finest rural Asturian Romanesque architecture. And, if we’re out caleyando (roaming around), we might arrive at Cabranes and even Torazo, another award-winning village. The route through the Cider District will take us to within a stone’s throw of the sea, to one of the most charming seafaring towns of the north –Lastres– also an award-winner, where we can delight in its views, its atmosphere and its indispensable seafood cuisine.

Symphony of Summits in the Montaña Central and the Nalón Valley – a Break in the Journey

Amid the symphony of summits, mountains, valleys, rivers and forests of the Montaña Central, this journey will lead us to Jomezana and the Huerna Valley, in the heart of Lena. And, from here to Morcín and on to La Foz, to savour its cheeses – including its stunning “Afuega’l Pitu” – its turnips and its scenery. Pressing on through this district we come to Aller and Moreda, where every 11 November the “Fiesta de los Humanitarios” is naturally celebrated by sitting down to a typical feast of fabada bean stew. To top it off, we can stop at Bueño, to view an impressive line-up of hórreos (granaries raised on pillars). The river Nalón, the longest in Asturias, imbues the valley with life. The high note is Sobrescobio, a model neighbourhood community where you are just as likely to stumble upon a madreña – a type of footwear – as a capercaillie, all set against an idyllic rural backdrop.

Camín Real de la Mesa – the Roman Road that Connects us Along this Route

The Camín Real de la Mesa was one of the most important Roman roads connecting the Meseta to the Cordillera Cantábrica range. It was after this road that a splendid district was named, with municipal territories like Somiedo or Teverga where the Cantabrian brown bear roams freely. About ten years ago, the village of Villar de Vildas in the Somiedo municipality was also endowed with the royal award. In Teverga, which was listed as of 2013, mining and stockbreeding are still the major activities. Don’t miss a tour of their Parque de la Prehistoria (Prehistoric Park).

Enchanting Eo and the Magic of the Vaqueiros – a Western Stopover

The Eo ría (estuary) is much more than just a natural divide between Asturias and Galicia – its beauty and biodiversity vivifies an entire Biosphere Reserve. There, Castropol, another model village, faces both the sea and the hinterland; it is an ideal spot for chilling out, playing sport and indulging in its superb cuisine. Further inland, San Tirso de Abres,also a listed village, is an oasis of peace and tranquility. In contrast, Los Vaqueiros de Alzada, a livestock and transhumant village par excellence, gave its name to a district which features a number of interesting stopovers along our route –Soto de Luiña and Novellana, in Cudillero, contribute their enticing pastures and coastal villages of western Asturias. Turning inland, we come across the secluded Valle de Paredes (Valley of Walls) and the river Esva, in Valdés. And, further inland, we arrive at two villages of Tineo studded with character and history – Tuña,the land of General Riego, and Navelgas, well-known for its gold-panning tradition.

Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña, Ibias and the River Navia – the Final Stage

The district of Narcea, Degaña and Ibias has been famed for its mineral wealth since ancient times, a land of pure air and valiant people whose exploits and love of their land have made them a legend. We are approaching the last few stopovers in this unique tour of Asturias. Highly recommended is a visit to Grandas de Salime, the Principality’s ethnographic and military preserve, Boal – the latest village to be listed – and Puerto de Vega, by now on the seaboard. Don’t forget to take a last look at the Cantabrian Sea before you leave, and what better place to do so than Puerto de Vega? This has been a journey with a difference which has led us to come close to a genuine Asturias and its vital essence.

Further information at Turismoasturias

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