Christmas in A Coruña
Christmas means decoration, gifts, ornaments, rituals, celebrations and much more. But, it is also a season when we probably have some extra leisure time. If you use it this year to visit A Coruña, you can get involved in a number of activities scheduled up to the moment the Three Wise Men arrive. Here, then, are our Christmas tips, and an introduction to two restaurants with Michelin stars not far from the city.
Atlantic Christmas
The María Pita Christmas Village opens to the public in early December and offers children’s activities, magic, games, music and gifts. Toddlers and infants will have a whale of a time here with the plethora of activities tailored to their needs. Children, the main focus of Christmas cheer, will be treated to a new edition of Nadaliño, a show featuring games and educational activities hosted in Palexco.
The A Coruña Science Museums have also scheduled a special programme for the season which entails learning while having fun. As ever, the festivities come to a close with the Grand Cavalcade of the Kings (Three Wise Men), a parade through the city’s streets, full of surprises, on the magical night of 5 January.
But, not everything has been devised for children. We adults can also enjoy these festivities. So, if you’re coming to A Coruña, be aware that there are numerous concerts on offer, as well as the premiere of several musicals and an Afro-American Gospel Music Festival.
Lastly, in the afternoon of the 31st, the customary San Silvestre Coruñesa race starts in the Plaza de María Pita and finishes at the Obelisco, for those who want to see the old year out in good shape and shed some of the calories acquired during the long holiday week.
Gastro-Visit
While you’re here, we recommend a getaway to two restaurants in the area with a Michelin star:
As Garzas
O Porto de Barizo, Barizo, 15113 Malpica de Bergantiños, A Coruña
Chef: Fernando Agrasar
Located in the heart of the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), opposite the Sisargas islands, the restaurant is housed in the hotel of the same name, a building with large windows that seem to lean out over the cliff edge. The dining-room is a relaxing, modern space with a formidable fireplace and just eleven tables set around it. The cuisine at As Garzas bears a sea flavour – that of the Atlantic in pristine state. Their chef, Fernando Agrasar, asserts that the cuisine is not avant-garde but creative. Sans impositions or any pointless elaborateness.
Key to the menu is the Galician fish and seafood, crafted into veritable pleasure bites. While liable to seasonal variation, grouper and sea bass always take pride of place. The rices, too, especially their lobster rice. Apart from an impressive seasonal menu, As Garzas also offers a carefully curated menu for “those reluctant to make a choice”. There are 12 to 14 dishes in all (bearing in mind that two of them are desserts), which vary in terms of the season and market, with innovation as the restaurant’s hallmark.
Retiro da Costiña
Av. de Santiago, 12. 15840 Santa Comba, A Coruña
Chef: Manuel Costiña
Set in a stately manor halfway between Santiago de Compostela and the Costa da Morte, each area in the Retiro is meticulously designed for enjoying each occasion. For appetizers, a wine cellar with a star-studded ceiling, while lunch and dinner are hosted in a spacious, stone-walled dining-room. And, for after-dinner, an elegant salon with a fireplace.
Retiro offers market cuisine with the most appetising dishes in season. No kidding – Galicia rules! So, it requires no effort to find such marvels as razor clams from Fisterra, grouper from Aguiño, hake from O Celeiro or oysters from O Freixo. Aside from the delicious menu, Manuel offers two tasting menus, one of which is carefully paired by the sommelier. And, there’s more – the wine cellar! In addition to a striking wine list, they have another featuring liqueurs, each with over 800 items. Enological gems such as 40- or 50-year-old Macallan whisky.
There you have it – what’s in store for you if you visit A Coruña over Christmas. Check out our flights here.
Text by Turismo de A Coruña
Images by Turismo de A Coruña, Retiro, As Garzas
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Málaga in 7 Bites
Málaga has become the hot capital of culture, due to the recent opening of local branches of the Centre Pompidou and Saint Petersburg State Russian Museum Collection, added to other art successes with the Carmen Thyssen Museum, La Térmica, the Contemporary Art Centre (CAC) and the Picasso Museum (a fine retrospective of Louise Bourgeois is currently running until 27 September). The city centre’s beautiful pedestrian precinct – distributed around the stately Marqués de Larios street as its hub – it’s pleasant climate all year around, its beaches and its gastronomy make it the ideal getaway destination. Here are 7 essential eateries you should not miss in Málaga.
1. El Pimpi
You can’t leave Málaga without stopping off at this emblematic bar with its eminently Andalusian patios filled with potted carnations. One of its draws is the casks autographed by the most variegated celebrities who have dined there, from Antonio Gala to Miquel Barceló and Pablo Alborán. It has a huge terrace, too. The food is very good and prices average about €30.
2. Los Baños del Carmen
This former spa opposite the beach, once a luxury baths and now decadent, preserves a charm of its own. Refurbished as a restaurant boasting an enormous terrace with a stately air, this is the ideal spot for soaking up the twilight hours. The menu du jour costs €18 and the à la carte is very Malagueñan: tapas de la bahía (from the bay), fish on a skewer, charcoaled meat… and concerts are usually held on weekend afternoons.
3. Mercado Atarazanas (Atarazanas, 10)
This lovely market with wrought-iron ceilings, colourful stained glass and a marble, Mudéjar entrance features several stalls that sell their tapas on the street, with tall tables for eating standing up. Dogfish, octopus, razor clams, prawns, venus shells, Malagueñan mixed fry… fittingly all very fresh and at excellent prices (averaging €3.5 for a half-portion). Ideal for having an aperitif.
4. Andrés Maricuchi
El Pedregalejo beach offers one of Málaga’s most prized specialities – espetos or skewered fish, particularly the sardine variety. They are charcoaled on cute barbecue boats set in the sand. Prominent among the many beach bars with a carefree, happy ambience is the Maricuchi. Instead of a menu, they recite their dishes to you. Their sardines are crisp on the outside and tasty on the inside. Around €20.
5. Montana
If you are seeking a more curated cuisine in romantic surroundings, this town palace has a gastronomic restaurant upstairs and a tapas bar below, set in a gardened terrace. Some of the recommendations: scrambled egg with whitebait and peppers in yuzu sauce, ox carpaccio with olive oil ice-cream and wasabi cheese, and timbal (tartlet) with griddled bacon, field mushrooms, foie gras and balsamic reduction. Classicism and modernity in one. Average price – €45.
6. José Carlos García Restaurante
Haute cuisine for gourmets. The chef, Carlos García, was awarded the province’s first Michelin star for creative cuisine in his Café París restaurant. They recently opened another, more distinguished, upmarket restaurant in the harbour. It comprises an intimate dining area with just six tables, a kitchen enclosed in a cube in full view of diners, a priceless terrace and an events room. Tasting menu – €110.
7. KGB
The more daring foodies should head for Kisco García Bar, a trove of world cuisine. One of their hits is pure Asian and Andalusian fusion – the Vietnamese nam de pringá (€4). They also give a nod to Russia with their vodka omelette, and to other parts of the world, as with their Peking Express bread. They also feature an array of thoroughly southern dishes, like the Ángel León-style shrimp omelette. A curiosity – the premises once housed Dani García’s gastrobar and, as a lot of the latter’s guests still came to order their excellent ox-tail hamburger, the dish has been incorporated into the menu of the bar opposite, belonging to the same owner as KGB – Wendy Gambas.
Málaga seems to have just everything. A good climate, excellent museums and endless culinary delights to wit. Come and live it out for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Isabel Loscertales, Montana, José Carlos García Restaurante
more infoA Natural Hike Through Asturias – From Reserve to Reserve
If there’s one striking thing about Asturias it is the beauty of its landscape – the power of nature here. Asturias is, above all, nature in its pure state, but imbued with a deep-rooted awareness of environmental conservation, making it emblematic and pioneering in its drive to preserve its natural surroundings. This is why a third of its surface area is protected by one or other legal conservation provision, making it a veritable nature paradise, as proclaimed by the slogan which has now been running for thirty years.
Asturias is one great open-air nature park, unique in the world. Not for nothing does it boast six Biosphere Reserves, as listed by UNESCO, making it one of the world’s privileged territories in terms of natural spaces. These are the spaces to be hiked and enjoyed in your leisure time.
The Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa, set in the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range: this vast territory encompasses the areas of Amieva, Cangas de Onís, Onís, Cabrales, Peñamellera Alta and Peñamellera Baja. Its uniqueness, beauty and scenic, natural and geological interest led this territory to be declared the Picos de Europa National Park by King Alfonso XIII in 1918, while its western reaches once formed the first national park in Spain, that of Montaña de Covadonga. The Picos de Europa are the largest limestone formation on Europe’s Atlantic seaboard, featuring major karst processes – a type of relief set up by chemical meteorisation of certain rocks, notably limestone, dolomite and gypsum – chasms over 1,000 metres deep, pronounced glacial erosion and the presence of lakes. Here, chamois roam the crags, while the dense forest is home to roe deer, wolves and the occasional bear. The Park also boasts over a thousand bird species, prominent among which are the black woodpecker and capercaillie, with the griffon vulture and golden eagle as the major birds of prey. But, here you will find more than just nature, as centuries of history have been written in the villages, valleys and churches, in the mountain pass shelters and trails.
The Parque Natural de Somiedo is a distinct example of coexistence between man and nature, where the former has come to understand nature and preserve it virtually intact over the centuries. Noteworthy landmarks here are the beautiful lakes, the rugged landscape, with drops of up to 2,200 metres, and the karst formations. Significant, too, are the brañas, fertile pasturelands where you might just get a glimpse of the famous cabanas de teito – stone dwellings with thatched straw or broom roofs used by thevaqueiros or mountain cowherds and stock breeders as shelters.
The environmental wealth of the Parque Natural de Redes is attested by a host of different landscapes, from formations of glacial origin such as moraine and cirques to broad pasturelands, hills and lush forests. In effect, 40% of the surface area of Redes is wooded, although it is also graced by lofty peaks, notably Pico Torres, Retriñón, Peña del Viento and Tiatordos. However, the most striking feature of Redes is its stunning meadows hemmed in by mountain buttresses, its gorges and its forests, where beech and white oak prevail.
The Parque Natural de Las Ubiñas-La Mesa, situated in southern and central Asturias, harbours priceless natural and cultural wealth. It includes mountain relief with marked contrasts which, hard by the border with León, rises to the Peña Ubiña massif, the second highest mountain range in the region after the Picos de Europa, with altitudes of over 2,400 metres. The Park takes in the municipalities of Lena, Quirós and Teverga which form part of the Somiedo Regional Hunting Preserve.
The Reserva Natural Integral de Muniellos lies within the Parque Natural de las Fuentes del Narcea y del Ibias. Muniellos is a sparsely populated territory, with one of the lowest population densities in Asturias. Its three valleys of Muniellos, La Viliella and Valdebois boast Spain’s largest oak forest and one of the best preserved in Europe. Ever-changing, it epitomises the Asturian landscape throughout the seasons of the year – various species of oak, up to six metres in diameter, beech and birch forest, dotted with holly and yew trees, the evergreen kings of autumn in Muniellos. The ascent to its lakes is one of the most popular trails among hiking enthusiasts.
The Oscos-Eo District, where the river Eo is the great protagonist as landscape-builder and articulator of the territory. A land of beaches, cliffs, forests and enormous ethnographic wealth, a landscape which has suffered the consequences of centuries-long isolation but has nevertheless provided the bedrock for sustainability and rural tourism projects in which preservation of the local heritage is uppermost in their development.
Asturias, from Biosphere Reserve to Biosphere Reserve, is a great option for a relaxing getaway. You can also make the most of its boundless nature by participating in dozens of open-air activities: canoeing, horse-riding, mountain bike trails, caving, canyoning and trekking, just some of the ways of immersing yourself in this paradise.
Don’t miss out on this paradise on earth – check out our flights here.
Text and images by Turismo Asturias
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Ecotourism in the Raw Along the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica
Today we recommend one of the most charming routes in Spain. We hiked along it and were captivated. Want to know why? I’m referring to the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica, a wilderness trail, steeped in nature, which runs for just over six hundred kilometres, mostly through Asturias, traversing the Cordillera Cantábrica (Cantabrian Mountain Range) from east to west. We started out at the easternmost point, in the municipality of Peñamellera Baja, near the border of Cantabria. The trail ends in the municipality of Santa Eulalia de Oscos, hard by the Autonomous Community of Galicia. It was a magical trip, a getaway in communion with nature in which we totally switched off from the daily rat race.
The Camino Natural is divided into twenty-seven stages. However, depending on your level of fitness, and the time you have available, some stages can be grouped together in order to complete the route in fewer days. The good thing about this trail is that it never becomes monotonous. You are accompanied by beautiful panoramic views throughout, with a rich diversity of fauna and flora. We were treated to some of the finest examples of scenic splendour Asturias has to offer.
Another inducement on this route is the host of protected nature reserves you encounter on the trail: the Picos de Europa National Park, Nature Reserve Network, Protected Area of the Cuencas Mineras (Mining Basins), Ubiñas-La Mesa Nature Reserve, near the Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias Nature Park, in addition to the Oscos-Eo Biosphere Reserve and the natural enclaves of Sierra del Cuera, Pico Caldoveiro and Sierras de Carondio y Valledor. Can’t do much better than that, can you?
However, nature is not the only great provider here. There is also the rich heritage of the human imprint. On this route you will come across countless reminders of the local historic and cultural legacy, often in the form of such traditional architecture as the hórreos (granaries raised on pillars), country manors or casonas, hermitages, churches, towers and stately homes. The trail also includes sections designated “historical roads”, notably the Roman Road of La Carisa, the Camín Real de La Mesa and the junction between the pilgrimage routes known as the French Road and the original Road to Santiago, not to mention the presence of Celtic, Roman and medieval archaeological sites.
The Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica is made up of the following stages:
1. Panes to Alles – 17.85 km; 5.00 hrs.
2. Alles to Carreña – 15.98 km; 4.30 hrs.
3. Carreña to Benia de Onís – 19.02 km; 5.00 hrs.
4. Benia de Onís to Cangas de Onís – 23.58 km; 4.30 hrs.
5. Cangas de Onís to Villamayor – 22.98 km; 7.30 hrs.
6. Villamayor to Espinaredo – 13.40 km; 4.30 hrs.
7. Espinaredo to Fresnedal – 9.26 km; 3.00 hrs.
8. Fresnedal to Los Melendreros – 15.93 km; 5.30 hrs.
9. Los Melendreros to Entralgo – 13.37 km; 4.30 hrs.
10. Entralgo to Bello – 18.51 km; 6.00 hrs.
11. Bello to Santibáñez – 32.54 km; 6.00 hrs.
12. Santibáñez to Campomanes – 26.09 km; 8.30 hrs.
13. Campomanes to Llanuces – 25.96 km; 8.30 hrs.
14. Llanuces to Bárzana – 20.17 km; 5.00 hrs.
15. Bárzana to Villanueva – 18.14 km; 5.00 hrs.
16. Villanueva to Villamayor – 43.67 km; 9.00 hrs.
17. Villamayor to Dolia – 22.65 km; 8.00 hrs.
18. Dolia to Belmonte – 13.99 km; 4.30 hrs.
19. Belmonte to Boinás – 17.25 km; 5.00 hrs.
20. Boinás to Tuña – 24.62 km; 4.00 hrs.
21. Tuña to Onón – 16.68 km; 4.00 hrs.
22. Onón to Corias – 23.77 km; 7.00 hrs.
23. Corias to Besullo – 20.02 km; 6.30 hrs.
24. Besullo to Berducedo – 42.21 km; 7.00 hrs.
25. Berducedo to Grandas – 45.71 km; 6.00 hrs.
26. Grandas to Castro – 13.25 km; 3.00 hrs.
27. Castro to Santa Eulalia de Oscos – 29.43 km; 6.00 hrs.
Top-notch Ecotourism in the North of the Iberian Peninsula
On this trip we discovered that ecotourism is an option which is fast catching on in Spain. Broadly speaking, it is a form of nature trailing which involves respecting the natural environment and promoting sustainability, as well as contributing directly and effectively to developing the area. Resource conservation with a view to safeguarding local fauna and flora is ever-present. Well, then, what better than to put into practice this tourist trend on the ascent by venturing along the Camino Natural de la Cordillera Cantábrica? Sightings of unique species, priceless scenery and unforgettable experiences are guaranteed in this nature paradise located in the north of the Iberian Peninsula. Now, you wouldn’t want to miss it, would you?
Text by José García
Images by Turismo de Asturias
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