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Rennes, the Breton Surprise

A walk around Rennes, the capital of Brittany, takes you back to medieval times. A large number of houses with wooden framing are still preserved in the streets of the historic centre. Wood was a popular building material in this region until the mid-17th century, when it was replaced by stone after the large fire of 1720 that burnt down more than 900 houses in the city centre. However, these old wooden buildings can be seen in the streets running from Rue de Chapitre and Champ-Jacquet square, with a statue of John Leperdit, the mayor of Rennes during the French Revolution.

Rennes has some beautiful spots, one of my favourite being the Place des Lices, where terrace cafés are jam-packed with the arrival of the good weather. In summer, evenings in Brittany are endless and the sun doesn't go down until after 10 p.m. Some centuries ago, this place was the setting of medieval jousts. Nowadays, its market is the second most important in France, bringing together more than 300 local and regional producers.

Two of the symbols of Rennes' medieval past are the Duchesne tower and the Mordelles Gates –Portes Mordellaises– which were part of the city walls in the 15th century. The Neoclassical Cathedral of Saint-Pierre is close by, as is the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur, both landmarks of the city's religious architecture.

The fires of the early 18th century marked a turning point in Rennes' urban design. After that, constructions were built in stone, notably the city hall, by the royal architect – Jacques Gabriel – who designed it to be immortal.

Another must-see is the Palace of the Parliament of Brittany, with lavishly decorated rooms representative of 17th-century French pictorial art. This building is an emblem of the historical region of Brittany, which has a culture and a language of its own. Some street names in Rennes are in Breton, as well as in French, the former being the only surviving Celtic language outside the British Isles.

Contemporary art has a notable presence in Rennes. Examples of this are the Parmiggiani fountain, the Cap Mail building, by the prestigious Jean Nouvel, Quai Ouest by Christian Hauvette, and Champs Libres by Christian de Portzamparc. The Champs Libres premises are divided into three areas: the Musée de Bretagne – with a surface area of 2,000 square metres – a six-floor library, and an area devoted to science, with a planetarium. Rennes also has a great art gallery in the Museum of Fine Arts, an old university palace designed by Vincent Boullé, featuring works by Rubens, Veronese and Picasso, among others. In music, the city is well known for Les Transmusicales de Rennes, a festival that has been offering new and eclectic music for its last 32 editions.

Finally, Thabor Park, a very pleasant spot, is one of the most important green areas of the Breton capital. This 10-hectare French-style garden, which used to belong to the monks of Saint-Melaine– features a rose garden, an aviary, statues and greenhouses, amongst other attractions. Musical comedy and dance performances are held here on Sundays in the months of May and June; many people attend these entry-free events.

Rennes is a city with lots of charm and can be easily discovered in a single weekend! Check out our flights here.

Text by María Jesús Tomé

Images by María Jesús Tomé / Oficina de Turismo de Rennes

 

 

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Seville Between Rice Paddies and Salt Marshes

The Guadalquivir Salt Marshes

Stretching across a tract of some 2,000 km2 in the river estuary, between Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, they are part of the Doñana National Park, one of Europe’s largest wetlands. It is home to over 100 bird species which are endemic to the ecosystem and create a stunning spectacle whenever they take off into flight. A land where the birds can be imagined playing flamenco, and the red crabs clapping in unison.

The area provides ideal itineraries for what seasoned travellers like best – to wander off on their own. Literally getting lost here, however, is not that difficult, what with hundreds of unmarked footpaths winding between the rice fields.

Seville’s Amazon

Our itinerary starts along the course of the Guadalquivir and its countless effluents branching off near the river mouth, a picture postcard reminiscent of the Amazon. Located here is Isla Mayor, a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants. Surrounded by grasslands and crop fields, the town appears to turn into a genuine island when flooded. For hiking enthusiasts, there are also a number of routes through the town which can be done by bicycle.

Canoeing devotees should make a point of visiting the Brazo de los Jerónimos, a canal thick with reeds and rushes, which makes paddling along it a unique experience.

Going Back In Time

Crossing from one bank of the Guadalquivir to the other can only be done by taking the Coria del Río ferry. This delightful crossing spanning 300 metres in just 3 minutes is reminiscent of some fast-paced American movie set on the Mississippi or in the Everglades. The crossing takes place with passengers jostling for space with cars, tractors, fishermen, goats and farm motorcycles and is an experience in which time seemingly stands still.

A stunning sight to be had from the riverbank is when a merchant or cruise vessel sails inland with the high tide just a few metres away, bound for the port of Seville, or in the direction of the Atlantic. This astonishing, surreal image will remain in your mind’s eye forever.

Having reached Coria, the itinerary takes us downstream as far as Puebla del Río, along the Calle Arrozal, a land trail winding between poplars and carpeted in spring with grass and wild flowers. On this side of the river, you have the chance to visit such towns as Poblado de las Colinas or Utrera.

Finger-licking Cuisine

After a boat ride, it’s time to enjoy some molletes (muffins) ortoast with colorá lard to regain your strength. This is the most traditional breakfast in the area and any bar worth its salt will offer this spread based on pork lard sprinkled with speckles of meat condimented with garlic, red pepper, oregano, bay leaf and other spices. Even Paco de Lucía himself was bowled over by this delight on the senses, to which he dedicated a few notes and chords in some of his more celebrated melodies.

But, the culinary offerings of these Sevillian wetlands go much further still. Indeed, they are as varied as the landscape itself.

If you happen to be here in June, you can attend the Feria y Fiestas del Arroz y del Cangrejo (Fair and Festival of Rice and Crab), which lasts for five days and provides such typical dishes as tomato crab, crab tails with garlic or sauce, pepper shrimps, duck with rice and salted bleaks.

Restaurants like El Tejao, Sevruga or El Estero offer delicious dishes of crab, elvers, duck, giltheads or bass, served up with the inevitable rice, on the banks of the Guadalquivir.

To taste another essential dish in this area, pheasant with rice, head for the Arco de Colina restaurant – their quality and prices will leave you aghast.

Dare to venture into the Guadalquivir salt marshes? Check out your Vueling to Seville here.

Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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Bests clubs in Zagreb

The Croatian capital has a lively nightlife. On the streets Preradoviceva, Tkalčićeva and Kozarska of Gornji Grad- Upper City-and at the central square you may find many bars, pubs and breweries to start the night, from the most chic and stylish venues to the most alternative ones. You can start from one of the most legendary such as Skola or Hemingway and end up in the Jarun lake area, where there are some of the most prestigious clubs in Zagreb, such as Aquarius Club, Gallery or Maison Club.
Summer nights are especially buzzing in the capital. In Zagreb you have an extra incentive with the celebration of of one of the most prestigious festivals in Europe, INmusic Festival which brings the best international bands each year !

Spunk/ Prostor Do

Spunk has recently been extended with the bar next to it, the Prostor Do -which literally means next door- to form this great and popular venue full of students. Evenings tend to be enlivened by performances by young musicians who have here the first oportunity to get noticed. Do not miss the detail of the walls Spunk / Prostor Dor, with the works of the famous Croatian artist Igor Hofbauer.
Spunk/ Prostor Do
Hrvatske bratske zajednice b.b., 10 000 Zagreb 

Vintage Industrial Bar

Another unique venue to start the night is Vintage Industrial Bar, an old button factory with a marked industrial look, as indicated by its descriptive name. Rustic furniture and a long bar that runs the premises from end to end. You can attend its lively parties and concerts at very affordable prices.
Vintage Industrial Bar
Savska cesta 160, 10000 Zagreb

Kino Europa

As it happens in all cities, the arrival of multiplex cinemas have led to the closure of the smaller rooms. The Cinema Europe – Kino Europa- has taken advantage of the opportunity to be reconverted into a multipurpose venue in which film festivals as well as other parties and DJ sessions are organized. Now this old space has become a very attractive place and a must for the Croatian youth.
Kino Europa
Varšavska 3, 10000 Zagreb

Sokol Klub

Its downtown location, has made of Sokol one of the busiest clubs for over 20 years. A place where you can forget about everyhting and live the real night in Zagreb. With an easy dress-code and capacity for 400 people, you will meet all kinds of people at Sokol Klub. It was a must from the golden age of Croatian dance scene and nowadays you can enjoy a dance evening with local music
Sokol Klub
Marshal Tito Square 6, Zagreb

Aquarius

By the Jarun Lake’s surroundings are located some of the most exclusive clubs in the city. One of the most renowned is the Aquarius Klub, with good international DJ sessions and good atmosphere. The night of Thursday to Friday are mainly hip-hop, R&B, while Saturday and Sunday are dedicated to local and international hits.
Aquarius Klub
Aleja Matije Ljubeka b.b., Zagreb

Gallery

Gallery lies a little further, along the lake. It is normal to find the city’s celebrities between models and footballers. A two-floor building with a capacity of 2000 people in which you ensure long dancing nights. Fridays are dedicated to hip hop and r’n'b while Saturday are for house music..
Gallery
Aleja Matije Ljubeka, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Tvornica Kulture

Great rock and pop concerts are held in this big multicultural venue. Renovated in 2011 to become one of the major concert halls and much more. It works as a cafeteria during the day and weekend’s nights offer dance and visual sessions
Tvornica Kulture
Šubićeva 2, 10000 Zagreb


Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

 

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Welcome to the City of Museums

With over forty museums, Basel can well boast of being one of Europe’s cities with the best contemporary cultural facilities. A large number of these numerous museums feature the plastic arts as their central theme, displaying works that range from antiquity to the present. The city’s penchant for collecting has its origins in the 16th century, when collectors hailed from both the private and public sectors. Several private collections have been opened to the public in recent years, augmenting the supply even further.

The Kunstmuseum Basel – the Beginning of Everything

This is the most significant museum in Basel and the largest in Switzerland. Its collections, which date back to 1662, feature works running from the Middle Ages up to the present. Hans Holbein enthusiasts are in for a treat if they come here, as it boasts one of the largest collections of this artist’s work.

The Beyeler Foundation – a European Collector’s Classic

This foundation, housing the collection of the spouses, Ernest and Hildy Beyeler, is one of the largest and most important in central Europe. It is a compendium of classical modern art, from Monet, Cézanne and Van Gogh to Picasso, Warhol, Lichtenstein and Bacon. The counterpoint to these figures is a display of tribal art from Africa, Oceania and Alaska, the contrast producing an interesting result. Also well worth seeing are the surroundings of the beautiful building – designed by Renzo Piano – with its priceless garden.

The Tinguely Museum – an In-Depth Look at the Artist’s Sculpture Machines

Dedicated to the life and work of the Swiss sculptor, Jean Tinguely. The interior of this original building, the work of the architect, Mario Botta, houses the sculpture machines that brought him fame, in addition to documentation, photographs and drawings of his work.

The Antikenmuseum (Museum of Antiquities) – in Search of the Classics

This is the only Swiss museum devoted to ancient Mediterranean art and civilisation. The collection features pieces dating from between the 4th millennium BC and the 7th century AD, sourced from the ancient Egyptian, Greek, Italic and Roman cultures, as well as works from the Near East and Cyprus. Featured are Greek ceramics and sculptures and the section dedicated to ancient Egypt.

Klingental – the Region’s Art Trends

Housed in the Klingental convent church, the Ausstellungsraum Klingental is dedicated to the region’s artistic production.

Schaulager – A Space for the Experts

The building housing this unusual space was designed by the Herzog & de Meuron architects studio. Directed at a specialist art audience, it also hosts events for the public at large and is innovative even in its conceptualisation. It is not intended to be a run-of-the-mill museum, but a storage facility open to the public which houses the undisplayed works of the Emanuel Hoffmann Foundation.

HeK – a Look at New Media in Art Production

The Haus der elektronischen Künste Basel (House of Electronic Arts Basel) specialises in art created using electronic media, known as “new media” or digital art. There are facilities for hosting all kinds of activities associated with these new trends in art. It also hosts the Forum for New Media, as well as Shift, Festival of Electronic Arts.

Schoenthal – Open-Air Sculpture

The former Romanesque convent of Schoenthal, situated half an hour from Basel, houses the Stiftung Sculpture at Schoenthal, a not-to-be-missed sculpture park featuring nearly twenty works by Swiss and international artists. The Romanesque church has been converted into a gallery for temporary exhibitions of contemporary artworks.

Have you taken note of all the art you can see in Basel? Check out our flights here and see it all first-hand.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Forgemind ArchiMedia, Jean-Baptiste Maurice, John Lord, régine debatty, Rosmarie Voegtli

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