Málaga in 7 Bites
Málaga has become the hot capital of culture, due to the recent opening of local branches of the Centre Pompidou and Saint Petersburg State Russian Museum Collection, added to other art successes with the Carmen Thyssen Museum, La Térmica, the Contemporary Art Centre (CAC) and the Picasso Museum (a fine retrospective of Louise Bourgeois is currently running until 27 September). The city centre’s beautiful pedestrian precinct – distributed around the stately Marqués de Larios street as its hub – it’s pleasant climate all year around, its beaches and its gastronomy make it the ideal getaway destination. Here are 7 essential eateries you should not miss in Málaga.
1. El Pimpi
You can’t leave Málaga without stopping off at this emblematic bar with its eminently Andalusian patios filled with potted carnations. One of its draws is the casks autographed by the most variegated celebrities who have dined there, from Antonio Gala to Miquel Barceló and Pablo Alborán. It has a huge terrace, too. The food is very good and prices average about €30.
2. Los Baños del Carmen
This former spa opposite the beach, once a luxury baths and now decadent, preserves a charm of its own. Refurbished as a restaurant boasting an enormous terrace with a stately air, this is the ideal spot for soaking up the twilight hours. The menu du jour costs €18 and the à la carte is very Malagueñan: tapas de la bahía (from the bay), fish on a skewer, charcoaled meat… and concerts are usually held on weekend afternoons.
3. Mercado Atarazanas (Atarazanas, 10)
This lovely market with wrought-iron ceilings, colourful stained glass and a marble, Mudéjar entrance features several stalls that sell their tapas on the street, with tall tables for eating standing up. Dogfish, octopus, razor clams, prawns, venus shells, Malagueñan mixed fry… fittingly all very fresh and at excellent prices (averaging €3.5 for a half-portion). Ideal for having an aperitif.
4. Andrés Maricuchi
El Pedregalejo beach offers one of Málaga’s most prized specialities – espetos or skewered fish, particularly the sardine variety. They are charcoaled on cute barbecue boats set in the sand. Prominent among the many beach bars with a carefree, happy ambience is the Maricuchi. Instead of a menu, they recite their dishes to you. Their sardines are crisp on the outside and tasty on the inside. Around €20.
5. Montana
If you are seeking a more curated cuisine in romantic surroundings, this town palace has a gastronomic restaurant upstairs and a tapas bar below, set in a gardened terrace. Some of the recommendations: scrambled egg with whitebait and peppers in yuzu sauce, ox carpaccio with olive oil ice-cream and wasabi cheese, and timbal (tartlet) with griddled bacon, field mushrooms, foie gras and balsamic reduction. Classicism and modernity in one. Average price – €45.
6. José Carlos García Restaurante
Haute cuisine for gourmets. The chef, Carlos García, was awarded the province’s first Michelin star for creative cuisine in his Café París restaurant. They recently opened another, more distinguished, upmarket restaurant in the harbour. It comprises an intimate dining area with just six tables, a kitchen enclosed in a cube in full view of diners, a priceless terrace and an events room. Tasting menu – €110.
7. KGB
The more daring foodies should head for Kisco García Bar, a trove of world cuisine. One of their hits is pure Asian and Andalusian fusion – the Vietnamese nam de pringá (€4). They also give a nod to Russia with their vodka omelette, and to other parts of the world, as with their Peking Express bread. They also feature an array of thoroughly southern dishes, like the Ángel León-style shrimp omelette. A curiosity – the premises once housed Dani García’s gastrobar and, as a lot of the latter’s guests still came to order their excellent ox-tail hamburger, the dish has been incorporated into the menu of the bar opposite, belonging to the same owner as KGB – Wendy Gambas.
Málaga seems to have just everything. A good climate, excellent museums and endless culinary delights to wit. Come and live it out for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Isabel Loscertales, Montana, José Carlos García Restaurante
more infoRomantic Settings the Scent of Vineyards and Alpine Charm in Germany
Fantastic medieval castles, beautiful scenery, enchanting villages, splendid vineyards, tasty cuisine and a touch of romanticism – what more could you want in a getaway? Well, all that and more awaits you on one of the most popular itineraries in Germany, known as the Romantic Road (Romantische Straße, in German).
The route starts at Würzburg, which lies about 110 kilometres south-east of Frankfurt, and ends in Füssen, 82 kilometres south-west of Munich. Between those two points, you will come across over 60 towns and villages steeped in culture, as well as stunning scenery. In all, an itinerary covering some 400 kilometres to savour what was once an important trade route in the Middle Ages and, since 1950, one of the leading tourist magnets in Germany.
The Main Sightseeing Spots
As there is a lot to see on that long trip, we have made a selection of the places we consider the standout spots to stop at.
Würzburg. Situated in the heart of Franconia’s grape-growing region, this town is famous as the home of a veritable jewel of Baroque architecture – the Würzburg Residence, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber. One of the best preserved medieval towns in the country and one of the major attractions on the Romantic Road, so be sure to make a stopover to visit it. We recommend strolling along the medieval wall to soak up the panoramic views it affords of the city and its surrounding area.
Dinkelsbühl. Another of the gems you will encounter along the Road is this picturesque town, which managed to avoid destruction in both the Thirty Years’ War and the Second World War. It is thus well preserved and the essence of its medieval past intact. A striking feature that meets eye when walking through the town is its numerous towers, numbering sixteen in all.
Nördlingen. While less frequented than the previous ones, much of the historical charm of this beautiful medieval town in Bavaria has been preserved. Curiously, the town was built over a crater caused by the impact of a meteorite that fell to earth over 15 million years ago. It covers an area measuring 25 kilometres in diameter.
Augsburg. The largest city along the route and one of the oldest in Germany. It was founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago. Having enjoyed independence for a period of its history, the city flourished and generated considerable wealth, becoming one of the most prosperous in Europe. A prominent city landmark is the Rathausplatz, a large pedestrian square in the very heart of the Altstadt, while other noteworthy sights include Renaissance and Baroque buildings.
Wies Pilgrimage Church. Located in Steingaden, this is a must-see spot for art lovers, as the architectural style of the building is among the most noteworthy in the Bavarian Rococo.
Neuschwanstein Castle. Wrapping up our list of recommendations is this stunning piece of architecture which was actually the model for the castle design in Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. No wonder, then, that Neuschwanstein means “new swan stone”. Overlooking the Pöllat Gorge in the Bavarian Alps, its construction was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria – the “Mad King” – in 1866.
Some Pointers
The best way to get around along the Romantic Route is by car, as it gives you greater autonomy when moving from one town to the next. You can pick up a hire car at Frankfurt airport. The route is signposted, so you just have to follow the indications to find your way. Those who prefer an alternative means of transport can take the coach, for which tickets can be booked in advance for specific legs of the journey. The more intrepid among you can also enjoy the pleasure of cycling through the bucolic landscapes as, on the whole, the route does not present any steep slopes.
Since this is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, we recommend that, if possible, you schedule your trip for the spring or autumn, as in summer it is far more crowded.
Now that you’re up to speed with the ins and outs of this fantastic route, it’s time to plan your own itinerary. Check out flights to Frankfurt here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by vince42, Tilo 2007, Rictor Norton & David Allen, ilovebutter, Holger Baschleben, Allie_Caulfield, Brian Wiese
more info“Hypezig”, or How Leipzig was Overrun by Hipsters
When it comes to Germany’s underground, everyone thinks of grand Berlin with its hipsters strolling through Kreuzberg, especially when it was alternative and arty – now Neukölln has taken over – its endless art galleries, flohmarkts and variegated events staged on any derelict or decadent-looking site.
However, it might occur to a few of you that Hypezig – from “hype” and “Leipzig” – has become Berlin’s major rival in the last ten years. The city is ideal for soaking up street art or homing in on radically alternative galleries, far removed from the bustle of the capital and beyond the tourist trail. A city where throngs of students, artists and musicians have been mingling for a long time.
Mom, I Want to be an Artist in Hypezig!
Spinnerei
This former cotton mill – once the largest in Europe – is a paradise for any art lover. Nearly a hundred artists and many galleries coexist in this emblematic spot. And, if you happen to stop by, you should not miss the ASPN Galerie, headed by Arne Linde, as this was a beacon of Leipzig’s art scene when it first got off the ground. Also a must is the Galerie Kleindienst, the city’s “New Leipzig School” of artists involved with all kinds of media and materials. At the Spinnerei you will also come across small establishments offering creative products, as well as a cinema and a bistro to act as your watering hole.
Weißcube Galerie
This gallery, housed in a white cube in the middle of a Bauhaus villa garden, is a must-see landmark. Apart from providing viewers with a fine example of outsider art, the dialogue set up between the building’s architectural pieces and its surroundings will leave no one indifferent.
Ortloff Galerie
On display in this gallery are exhibits ranging from graphic design to sculptures, to installations of all types. Many of the exhibiting artists are graduates of the Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst Leipzig (HGB), the city’s visual arts faculty.
But, perhaps the best way to soak up the art is to stroll through Leipzig’s streets. When you least expect it, you are likely to turn a corner and bump into such works as “Mural of the peaceful revolution”, by Michael Fischer, or Blek Le Rat’s “Madonna and child” graffito, which was restored and placed behind a protective glass screen.
Dancing in the Night
And, since man does not live by art alone, getting into the swing of the city’s nightlife is a good way of rounding off the day.
Elipamanoke
This is one of the first locales to be opened in the east of Leipzig, an area characterised by its industrial past and transformed into one of the city’s hot districts. The underground parties in Elipamanoke move to the rhythm of minimal techno and house, although you can also hear drum’n’bass or electroswing.
Institut fuer Zukunft
Their rule forbidding taking photos and their access policy make this an exclusive club which prides itself on being an alternative to the current club scene. The lineup at Institut fuer Zukunft features local and international DJs who gift experimental sessions of house and techno. During the day, they host conferences and debates on gender, club culture and electronic music.
Villa Hasenholz
The best parties are usually held at venues that were not originally clubs. Thus, this kulturhaus and biergarten called Villa Hasenholz, which is also a residence for artists, hosts rave-ups of all kinds. Making use of either the interior or their outside garden, the premises can operate as a disco, a concert hall or a multi-purpose festival venue, outside the established circuit and idyllically located in a forest.
Leipzig is the ideal destination for a weekend getaway where you can steep yourself in a bohemian ambience of art and music. It is also one of the iconic cities for its classical music or for lazing in its parks and gardens, like the Clara-Zetkin-Park, where jazz is played every Sunday. But the city offers, above all, a markedly alternative Germany, alien to any stodgy clichés. It also brings home the fact that smaller cities such as Weimar, Dresden or Bremen are also likely to raise the eyebrows of more than one cosmopolitan hipster.
I’m sure you’re eager to plunge into the city’s cultural effervescence. Make haste – check out our flights to Leipzig here.
Text by Carmen Gómez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Elipamanoke, Institut fuer Zukunft, di.fe88, GlynLowe, Pfauenauge
more infoTurin for Film Lovers
It was a film that led me to Turin. I was stunned by a giant edifice topped by a spire which towered over the city. It was the Mole Antonelliana, a vivid name alluding to both its blunt presence and its designer, Alessandro Antonelli, who had initially conceived of it as a synagogue. I discovered it in a humble but significant independent film entitled Dopo Mezzanotte (After Midnight), by Davide Ferrario, who lives in the city and has shot many of his films there. It is a hymn to cinema, a passion triangle with the action set in the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, which has been housed in the Mole since 2000. With an area of 3,200 square metres, it is the largest in Europe dedicated to “the Seventh Art”. It is a highly original, spectacular exhibition, both for its location and the layout of its collections, including pre-cinematographic devices, magic lanterns, and both old and modern stage items – notably masks from Star Wars and Bergman’s The Seventh Seal, Superman’s cloak and Marilyn Monroe’s bodice. It is actually one of the most frequented museums in Italy, quite a feat in a country with such a rich history and art heritage. It is also the site of the Turin Film Festival, next slated for 20 to 28 November, which has featured such filmmakers as Nanni Moretti, Gianni Amelio and Paolo Virzi.
The City that Bewitched Risi, Tornatore and Argento
The fact that Turin was Italy’s first capital is evident in its cinema, from Neorealism to erotic comedies, with a profusion of such explicit detective films as Double Game, Black Turin and Torino, centrale del vizio. It was in Turin that the master of horror movies and self-confessed lover of the city, Dario Argento, shot several scenes from one of his first hits, The Cat o' Nine Tails. He went on to film in their entirety his latest works, Do You Like Hitchcock?, Sleepless (Non ho sonno) and Giallo.
The city of the Juventus and Torino football clubs, the annual contenders at the “Derby della Mole”, is also an obligatory stop on the journeys depicted in the perennial classics. Enrico Loverso emigrates from the poor south to the Turinese industrial north in The Way We Laughed (Così ridevano) by Gianni Amelio. In Everybody's Fine (Stanno tutti bene), by Giuseppe Tornatore, an elderly, splendid Marcello Mastroianni visits his adult children distributed across Italy and finds the last of them – of course – in Turin. And, the irascible blind captain played by Vittorio Gassman sets off from Turin station in Scent of a Woman, directed by Dino Risi (the remake, with Al Pacino, came years later). Risi also happened to make his cinema debut in the same Alpine city, when he was assistant director during the shoot of Piccolo mondo antico (Little Ancient World), and it was there, too, that he one night declared his eternal love to the stunning actress, Alida Valli, while they were sitting in a carriage in the rain, in the romantic, lush gardens of the Parco Valentino.
The Setting for Robberies and Spies in American Movies
In The Pink Panther 2, with Steve Martin, one of the city’s most prized treasures is stolen – no less than the Turin Shroud. However, the film that has probably set Turin most on the map is the 1969 cult movie, The Italian Job, by Peter Collinson (which has seen a recent remake). In it, Michael Caine flees with his loot from the carabinieri in his Mini Coopers, through the Palazzo Carignano, along the inner staircases of the Palazzo Madama and around the exterior of the Gran Madre di Dio Church, skidding through the glamorous Galleria San Federico shopping centre, and driving over the flared roof of the Palazzo a Vela, built for the Italia 61 Exhibition and refurbished as a sports centre for the 2006 Winter Olympics. He also drives up the heady oval test track on the old FIAT factory – the city’s veritable economic driving force for decades – housed in the Lingotto building, now a multidisciplinary space for trade fairs and festivals. In his final getaway, his Minis reach the nearby Alps, the formidable mountain range which acts as the backdrop for this stunning city, after having crossed the river Po.
And, opposite the Po stands the majestic Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which appears in The Bourne Ultimatum, a saga starring Matt Damon. However, the café where we later see the fired up secret agent sitting is actually in Madrid! The fact is that the film crew were back working in Spain when a change to the script forced them to repeat the shoot of the scene originally filmed in Turin. The magic of cinema always involves some hidden devices!
If you fancy seeing the city for yourself, secure your ticket here!
Text by Carlos G. Vela para ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Felipe Cadona Colombo, Jean-Pierre Dalbera, Luigi Giordano, Marco Coïsson, MarkusMark, Nicola Gambetti
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