Ciutadella A St John Festival With a Difference
The night of 23 June, renowned for being the shortest in the year, is accompanied by countless rituals and festivities across most of Europe. Fire usually takes centre stage in the form of fireworks or bonfires, but there are other highlights, too. Among such exceptions are the celebrations in Ciutadella, Menorca, where horses and their riders provide the main show in a ritual which goes back to the early-14th century and nowadays draws hosts of visitors eager to be immersed in new experiences.
The Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella traditionally take place between 23–24 June and the previous Sunday. The opening day is Diumenge des Be (Sunday of the Lamb), when a peasant dressed in sheepskins known as s’homo des be (the man of the ram) parades barefoot through the city streets carrying a white ram over his shoulders. Symbolising St John the Baptist, he is the herald who announces the start of the festivities.
The second highlight of the Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella begins at 2 o’clock in the afternoon of 23 June and lasts until daybreak on 25 June – that’s nothing in those parts! And, what are visitors likely to encounter there? Well, the famous horse parades (in Menorcan, qualcades) of which the two leading lights are the mounted cavallers (horsemen) and the caixers, who stand for the four social estates – the clergy, represented by the Caixer Capellà or Capellana; the nobility, by the Caixer Senyor; the craftsmen, by the Caixer Casat (married, and master of a manual craft) and Caixer Fadrí (the apprentice), and the peasants, by the Caixers Pagesos. The whole parade is headed by the fabioler, mounted on a somereta (ass), who announces the arrival of the retinue with his flute and drum. All told, the parade is actually a kind of shrine festival, with the crowds escorting the saint from the Plaza del Born to the small shrine of Sant Joan de Missa (St John of the Mass).
Another moment in these celebrations which you should make a point of seeing is the Caragol des Born, held on the afternoon of 23 June, in which horses and their riders circle around the Plaça des Born to a musical accompaniment, surrounded by crowds of onlookers. Another highlight of the festivities are the Jocs des Pla, which start at 7 p.m. on 24 June. Be sure to head for the Pla de Sant Joan well ahead to secure a place, as the ensuing equestrian medieval games are very popular. There the mounted knights show off their prowess in a series of tournament events.
And, like any Menorcan fiesta worth its salt, the island’s cocktail par excellence is very much in evidence. I am referring to gin amb llimonada, a wonderful blend of local gin and crushed ice lemonade which you are urged to drink in moderation. And, no – don’t call it a pomada, unless you want to get snooty looks from the locals.
If you are unable to get there in time for the Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella, rest assured there are various other high feasts on the island (some of which also feature horses), where entertainment is guaranteed.
Fire up and experience these fiestas for yourself – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Morfheos
more infoMust-visit Four-star Restaurants for Gourmets in Monaco
If you plan to visit the French Côte d'Azur, be sure to stop over at Monaco. Luxury also spills out onto the table on that small rock, with its endless array of starred restaurants. These are our favourites venues.
Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo
Suitably attired in your finery, make for the Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo. Inaugurated in 2004, it was the French chef’s first restaurant in the Principality, subsequently followed by the no less famous Yoshi (Japanese cuisine) and Odyssey (Mediterranean cuisine). The Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo, for its part, with its modern, inviting aesthetic, conveys a feeling of zen refinement. The open kitchen in full view enables guests to appreciate the choreography of chefs and pastry cooks as they display their art over the fires – a veritable top-drawer gastronomic experience. Also worth bearing in mind is that the French chef has added vegetarian and gluten-free menus to cater for even the most sensitive palates.
Le Vistamar
If, apart from a good table, you’re eager to enjoy one of the best views of Monte Carlo, opt for Le Vistamar (in the splendid Hôtel Hermitage Monte Carlo), where chef Benoît Witz orchestrates a culinary concept which has earned him a Michelin star. Here, the spotlight is on enhancing the products with the finest Mediterranean flavours, while the deliciously original dishes respond to the theme of “a fish, a vegetable and a cooking”, within the framework of different tasting menu options – the perfect harmony between sophistication and simplicity. Worth mentioning is the centrepiece of the house – blue lobster with peas, caramelised shallots and a fine foam infused with smoked duck. To accompany the food, the establishment proffers its striking wine list with exclusive wines from around the world. Among the finest in Monaco.
Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse
Le Louis XV, featuring the acclaimedFrench chef Alain Ducasse, is a fantasy world of modern elegance sited in the Hôtel Paris of Monte Carlo. And, according to the leading international critics, a restaurant which has achieved culinary perfection. The interior design – including a fascinating chandelier with over 800 uniquely different pieces of crystal – is a display of exquisite luxury paying tribute to the “dolce vita” of the Riviera, a place for which Ducasse has always confessed his passion. And, he reiterates that homage through his cuisine, in which the products, flavours and colours of the Côte d’Azur converge. Their fish is fresh from the dockside auction, while the herbs, spices and vegetables are sourced locally and in season. This traditional approach to the product is offset by the avant-garde technique, endowing dishes with freshness and modernity.
Elsa
Contemporary flavours from the French Riviera crafted with local, seasonal produce (the menu changes each season) which is, first and foremost, organically produced, a fact which led the establishment to become the first restaurant with a 100% bio certificate in accordance with European standards. A Michelin one-star, Elsa has earned its place among the culinary elite thanks to the talent and creativity of chef Paolo Sari. Three different tasting menus are available.
Book your Vueling to Nice, just half an hour away from Monaco, and bring out your gourmet streak in one of these excellent restaurants.
Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
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Chilling Palermo
When planning a trip to Sicily, what springs to mind is the island’s astounding heritage – the result of its eventful past – as well as the chance to see an active volcano like Mt Etna, taste its delicious, varied cuisine, have a bathe in its magnificent waters or simply let yourself be carried away by its decadent magic. And, why deny it, devotees of The Godfather who want to discover the cradle of the Sicilian Mafia have things cut out for them here. Who would have though that the largest island in the Mediterranean, coveted and invaded over the centuries by Greeks, Germanic tribes, Saracens, Normans, Spaniards and, finally, Italians would end up becoming a destination for tourists in search of experiences and souvenirs.
The capital, Palermo, is a must-visit city for any tourists worth their salt. What a delight it is to wander along the city’s labyrinthine streets and behold the sheer number and variety of monuments, a melange of the Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Renaissance and Baroque. It is a pleasure for art lovers and sightseers alike.
Mummies in the Catacombs of the Capuchins
However, those who hanker for something over and above myriad monuments in Palermo, or who simply wish to add a touch of mystery and morbid fascination to their stay in the city – and are prepared for the odd nightmare – should not hesitate to jot down on their wish list a visit to the Catacombs of the Capuchins. Situated in the Piazza Cappuccini, on the outskirts of Palermo, it offers what is certain to be one of the most unusual shows on the island as it houses the mummies of numerous Palermitani. We aren’t aware of whether they rest in peace, what with so many tourists milling about the rooms, but they do manage to stir up fear and inspiration for the odd horror movie.
The story goes that, from the 17th to the late-19th century, the friars in this community used to mummify and thus preserve for posterity the bodies of numerous Palermitani – specifically, those who requested and were able to afford it. To achieve this they resorted to a rather rudimentary technique which involved eliminating all moisture from the corpses inside a cave with a very dry atmosphere and then bathing them in vinegar, after which the bodies were left to dry in the sun, to complete the process of mummification. Quite shocking, isn’t it?
When filing through the catacombs, you get the feeling you are not alone, but accompanied by a bizarre retinue, some of whose members are lying down and others hanging vertically against the walls, dressed in all their finery and meticulously arranged by gender and social class. The headiest and severest moment on the tour is when you see the mummy of the little girl, Rosalia Lombardo, who died in 1920 at the age of two and who seems to be more asleep than dead. It is almost impossible not to feel cold shivers when setting eyes on her.
The strangest thing about this story is that the reason for this practice is not known, while there is no other place on the island where corpses are preserved in this manner.
Pluck up the courage to visit this unusual spot, suitable only for dare-devils and lovers of the bizarre. Book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Juan Antonio F. Segal
more infoSanta Catalina el barrio trendy de Palma
Santa Catalina is now Palma’s fashionable quarter. Located just outside the erstwhile walled city west of Palma, in recent years it has undergone a facelift, turning it into a more spacious, more integral, must-visit district of the city.
Owing to its proximity to the harbour, it was originally a fishing quarter. In the 18th century some industrial activity emerged in the area, as evinced by the iconic Es Jonquet windmills and the aptly named Calle Industria. However, it reached the peak of its industrial expansion and development in the late-19th and early-20th century. Dating precisely from that period are the Modernist-style houses spread across the district, some of which were built by the Indianos on their return from Cuba.
Santa Catalina is a district of one- or two-storey houses, with balconies and Majorcan blinds, and small interior gardens or patios. A stroll through its quiet streets attests to an unusual mix of people, including a good number of foreigners that have succumbed to this quaint old fishermen’s quarter and have decided to settle there.
The hub of the area is the Santa Catalina Market, a veritable neighbourhood meeting point. Housed in a building dating from 1920, it preserves much of its original charm and is the ideal place for shopping for fresh, seasonal produce, most of which is sourced locally.
One of the claims to fame of Santa Catalina is the large number of restaurants that have opened there in the last few years, making it the perfect spot for ending a day’s sightseeing through Palma with a rewarding culinary experience. Among the standout venues we find:
Cantina Patrón Lunares. Located on the premises of the mutual benefit society, Montepío del Arrabal, it features highly poetic interior design in which the maritime and industrial past merges to perfection with vintage furniture and craft objects. The restaurant offers traditional island cuisine enhanced with seafood dishes from further afield.
Restaurante Duke. Here, the menu faithfully reflects the taste of the owners, who are great travellers, as it is characterised by dishes from all over the planet. The small interior is decorated with surfing motifs and photos of their journeys and is the perfect spot for eating wholesome food based on original recipes in a peaceful setting. We recommend ending off the meal with a mojito, which are mouth-watering.
Restaurante Hanaita. Despite the plain, rather dowdy decor of this small venue, it is undoubtedly one of the best Japanese restaurants in Palma, featuring excellent quality dishes.
Restaurante Xoriguer. Located on the Calle Fábrica, this is one of Palma’s classics. It also features some excellent, traditional Basque cuisine, and a wide variety of splendid meat dishes, including the best Kobe and Black Angus beef.
Gin Burger. As its name suggests, this cosy, modern locale offers delicious hamburgers which you can wash down with a magnificent gin tonic – they carry a large variety of gins. The venue is suitable for all guests, including vegetarians and celiacs, who have also been catered for on the menu.
Apart from its culinary offerings, Santa Catalina has also become a hub of the city’s artistic activity, which is centred around the Teatro Mar i Terra.
Now that you’re genned up about Palma’s trendiest district, all that’s left is for you to book your Vueling and enjoy it.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Fabian Walden, Cantina Patrón Lunares, Fernando Vesga
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