Ciutadella A St John Festival With a Difference
The night of 23 June, renowned for being the shortest in the year, is accompanied by countless rituals and festivities across most of Europe. Fire usually takes centre stage in the form of fireworks or bonfires, but there are other highlights, too. Among such exceptions are the celebrations in Ciutadella, Menorca, where horses and their riders provide the main show in a ritual which goes back to the early-14th century and nowadays draws hosts of visitors eager to be immersed in new experiences.
The Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella traditionally take place between 23–24 June and the previous Sunday. The opening day is Diumenge des Be (Sunday of the Lamb), when a peasant dressed in sheepskins known as s’homo des be (the man of the ram) parades barefoot through the city streets carrying a white ram over his shoulders. Symbolising St John the Baptist, he is the herald who announces the start of the festivities.
The second highlight of the Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella begins at 2 o’clock in the afternoon of 23 June and lasts until daybreak on 25 June – that’s nothing in those parts! And, what are visitors likely to encounter there? Well, the famous horse parades (in Menorcan, qualcades) of which the two leading lights are the mounted cavallers (horsemen) and the caixers, who stand for the four social estates – the clergy, represented by the Caixer Capellà or Capellana; the nobility, by the Caixer Senyor; the craftsmen, by the Caixer Casat (married, and master of a manual craft) and Caixer Fadrí (the apprentice), and the peasants, by the Caixers Pagesos. The whole parade is headed by the fabioler, mounted on a somereta (ass), who announces the arrival of the retinue with his flute and drum. All told, the parade is actually a kind of shrine festival, with the crowds escorting the saint from the Plaza del Born to the small shrine of Sant Joan de Missa (St John of the Mass).
Another moment in these celebrations which you should make a point of seeing is the Caragol des Born, held on the afternoon of 23 June, in which horses and their riders circle around the Plaça des Born to a musical accompaniment, surrounded by crowds of onlookers. Another highlight of the festivities are the Jocs des Pla, which start at 7 p.m. on 24 June. Be sure to head for the Pla de Sant Joan well ahead to secure a place, as the ensuing equestrian medieval games are very popular. There the mounted knights show off their prowess in a series of tournament events.
And, like any Menorcan fiesta worth its salt, the island’s cocktail par excellence is very much in evidence. I am referring to gin amb llimonada, a wonderful blend of local gin and crushed ice lemonade which you are urged to drink in moderation. And, no – don’t call it a pomada, unless you want to get snooty looks from the locals.
If you are unable to get there in time for the Festes de Sant Joan de Ciutadella, rest assured there are various other high feasts on the island (some of which also feature horses), where entertainment is guaranteed.
Fire up and experience these fiestas for yourself – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Morfheos
more infoThe Castle of Mad King Ludwig
When you first set eyes on the formidable Neuschwanstein Castle, you are bound to feel enveloped by the air of romanticism it gives off. For a moment, you could well be in some setting from a knightly novel or a fairy-tale. This is how we think Walt Disney must have felt, as it inspired him in his design of the castle for the cartoon version of The Sleeping Beauty.
The artificer of this colossal architectural undertaking of medieval inspiration was Ludwig II of Bavaria, as a tribute to his childhood home, Hohenschwangau Castle. Situated in Schwangau, the latter was a ruined fortress rebuilt by his father, Maximilian II of Bavaria, thereafter becoming home to this unusual figure in Bavarian history.
Solitude, Romanticism and Wagner
The biography of Ludwig II of Bavaria, the son of Maximilian II of Bavaria and Princess Marie of Prussia, was clearly a product of the times, with the king’s reign in decline as protagonist, and romanticism and historicism as the backdrops to a king who yearned to have reigned in former times and who ended up alone and isolated in a permanent state of nostalgia, during which he fritted away the family fortune on building huge castles or acting as the patron to Richard Wagner, his great friend and icon.
Born in 1845, he was crowned king at the early age of 18, long before he was able to fulfil his dreams. The tensions at the time between Austria and Prussia and the end of the Bavarian Alliance led to a progressive decline in his power and his interest in politics. In 1886, his eccentric behaviour and melancholic bent prompted him to be declared unfit to rule. The day after he was deposed, he died in strange circumstances while strolling in the vicinity of Lake Starnberg in the company of Dr Gudden, his psychiatrist.
A good way to learn more about the life of this enigmatic figure is by watching the film ,Ludwig, by the great Luchino Visconti. It traces the life of Ludwig II and also features a stunning Romy Schneider as the Austrian Empress Sissi, his beloved cousin and close friend, who ended up nicknaming him “Mad King Ludwig”.
The “New Swan Stone”
During his reign and in keeping with the family tradition of building castles, Ludwig II of Bavaria commissioned a total of three castles – Linderhof, Herrenchiemsee and Neuschwanstein. The latter became the most popular of them and it is there he ended up living during the latter years of his life, although it hadn’t actually been completed. Sited near Füssen in the Pöllat Gorge and very near his childhood residence, it was originally named “New Hohenschwangau Castle”. After the king’s death, the name was changed to Neuschwanstein, meaning “New Swan Stone”.
Incredible as it may sound, particularly on account of its size, the castle was originally built as the king’s refuge, a place where he would live in solitude and give free rein to his passion for the Middle Ages, stories and Wagner. That makes it more of a fairy-tale stage than a residential palace. Who could have possibly told Ludwig II of Bavaria that the work he would end up being deposed for was to eventually become Germany’s most widely visited monument, chalking up 1.4 million visitors a year?
Neuschwanstein Castle is a landmark on one of Germany’s best known tourist routes, the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse).The itinerary features a number of fantastic medieval castles, beautiful scenery, enchanting villages, splendid vineyards and a delicious cuisine. It starts at Würzburg, about 110 kilometres south-east of Frankfurt, and ends in Füssen, 82 kilometres south-west of Munich.
If you prefer to avoid doing the whole route and would instead like to just visit this wonderful castle, your best option is a getaway to Munich, which lies 120 kilometres away. Book your Vueling and discover this fairy-tale castle.
 Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Cezary Piwowarski
more infoMust-visit Four-star Restaurants for Gourmets in Monaco
If you plan to visit the French Côte d'Azur, be sure to stop over at Monaco. Luxury also spills out onto the table on that small rock, with its endless array of starred restaurants. These are our favourites venues.
Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo
Suitably attired in your finery, make for the Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo. Inaugurated in 2004, it was the French chef’s first restaurant in the Principality, subsequently followed by the no less famous Yoshi (Japanese cuisine) and Odyssey (Mediterranean cuisine). The Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo, for its part, with its modern, inviting aesthetic, conveys a feeling of zen refinement. The open kitchen in full view enables guests to appreciate the choreography of chefs and pastry cooks as they display their art over the fires – a veritable top-drawer gastronomic experience. Also worth bearing in mind is that the French chef has added vegetarian and gluten-free menus to cater for even the most sensitive palates.
Le Vistamar
If, apart from a good table, you’re eager to enjoy one of the best views of Monte Carlo, opt for Le Vistamar (in the splendid Hôtel Hermitage Monte Carlo), where chef Benoît Witz orchestrates a culinary concept which has earned him a Michelin star. Here, the spotlight is on enhancing the products with the finest Mediterranean flavours, while the deliciously original dishes respond to the theme of “a fish, a vegetable and a cooking”, within the framework of different tasting menu options – the perfect harmony between sophistication and simplicity. Worth mentioning is the centrepiece of the house – blue lobster with peas, caramelised shallots and a fine foam infused with smoked duck. To accompany the food, the establishment proffers its striking wine list with exclusive wines from around the world. Among the finest in Monaco.
Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse
Le Louis XV, featuring the acclaimedFrench chef Alain Ducasse, is a fantasy world of modern elegance sited in the Hôtel Paris of Monte Carlo. And, according to the leading international critics, a restaurant which has achieved culinary perfection. The interior design – including a fascinating chandelier with over 800 uniquely different pieces of crystal – is a display of exquisite luxury paying tribute to the “dolce vita” of the Riviera, a place for which Ducasse has always confessed his passion. And, he reiterates that homage through his cuisine, in which the products, flavours and colours of the Côte d’Azur converge. Their fish is fresh from the dockside auction, while the herbs, spices and vegetables are sourced locally and in season. This traditional approach to the product is offset by the avant-garde technique, endowing dishes with freshness and modernity.
Elsa
Contemporary flavours from the French Riviera crafted with local, seasonal produce (the menu changes each season) which is, first and foremost, organically produced, a fact which led the establishment to become the first restaurant with a 100% bio certificate in accordance with European standards. A Michelin one-star, Elsa has earned its place among the culinary elite thanks to the talent and creativity of chef Paolo Sari. Three different tasting menus are available.
Book your Vueling to Nice, just half an hour away from Monaco, and bring out your gourmet streak in one of these excellent restaurants.
Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
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Chilling Palermo
When planning a trip to Sicily, what springs to mind is the island’s astounding heritage – the result of its eventful past – as well as the chance to see an active volcano like Mt Etna, taste its delicious, varied cuisine, have a bathe in its magnificent waters or simply let yourself be carried away by its decadent magic. And, why deny it, devotees of The Godfather who want to discover the cradle of the Sicilian Mafia have things cut out for them here. Who would have though that the largest island in the Mediterranean, coveted and invaded over the centuries by Greeks, Germanic tribes, Saracens, Normans, Spaniards and, finally, Italians would end up becoming a destination for tourists in search of experiences and souvenirs.
The capital, Palermo, is a must-visit city for any tourists worth their salt. What a delight it is to wander along the city’s labyrinthine streets and behold the sheer number and variety of monuments, a melange of the Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Renaissance and Baroque. It is a pleasure for art lovers and sightseers alike.
Mummies in the Catacombs of the Capuchins
However, those who hanker for something over and above myriad monuments in Palermo, or who simply wish to add a touch of mystery and morbid fascination to their stay in the city – and are prepared for the odd nightmare – should not hesitate to jot down on their wish list a visit to the Catacombs of the Capuchins. Situated in the Piazza Cappuccini, on the outskirts of Palermo, it offers what is certain to be one of the most unusual shows on the island as it houses the mummies of numerous Palermitani. We aren’t aware of whether they rest in peace, what with so many tourists milling about the rooms, but they do manage to stir up fear and inspiration for the odd horror movie.
The story goes that, from the 17th to the late-19th century, the friars in this community used to mummify and thus preserve for posterity the bodies of numerous Palermitani – specifically, those who requested and were able to afford it. To achieve this they resorted to a rather rudimentary technique which involved eliminating all moisture from the corpses inside a cave with a very dry atmosphere and then bathing them in vinegar, after which the bodies were left to dry in the sun, to complete the process of mummification. Quite shocking, isn’t it?
When filing through the catacombs, you get the feeling you are not alone, but accompanied by a bizarre retinue, some of whose members are lying down and others hanging vertically against the walls, dressed in all their finery and meticulously arranged by gender and social class. The headiest and severest moment on the tour is when you see the mummy of the little girl, Rosalia Lombardo, who died in 1920 at the age of two and who seems to be more asleep than dead. It is almost impossible not to feel cold shivers when setting eyes on her.
The strangest thing about this story is that the reason for this practice is not known, while there is no other place on the island where corpses are preserved in this manner.
Pluck up the courage to visit this unusual spot, suitable only for dare-devils and lovers of the bizarre. Book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Juan Antonio F. Segal
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