By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker

Let’s be totally honest about this: The best thing about Deutsche Bahn’s Across-the-Country 1-day rail pass (the “Quer-durchs-Land” ticket or QdL for short) is that it’s very cheap. 48 Euros for two people on any regional train in Germany: that’s an unbeatable offer.

Journeys take a little longer than on the fast IC trains, that much is for certain, and their trajectories may be slightly more convoluted, but that can be a benefit, too.

Recently, on our way back from a hike in the Mecklenburger Seenplatte, for example, we took the opportunity to break up what would otherwise have been a very long train journey to make a two-hour stop in Hamburg. Two hours in Hamburg are not a lot for such a big city, Germany’s largest after Berlin, but we had been there several times and knew where to go. In the end, we were surprised how many of the city’s main sites we were able to cover.

From the central train station, head straight (down Mönckebergstraße) for the so-called Binnenalster, Hamburg’s poshest mile. Along its banks, you can find some of Germany’s biggest private banks, most expensive hotels and fanciest restaurants.

The huge and opulent building on the artifical lake’s southern shore is Hamburg’s City Hall, built in the 19th century with the era’s typical sense for flash and grandeur.

Walk down past the Alsterfleet canal, underneath the Alsterarkaden colonnades, before turning right on Stadthausbrücke and heading for St Michael’s Church, Hamburg’s main landmark since it was built in the 17th century – famous not least because it was the first building of the city that many of her visitors, coming from the sea, were able to spot in the distance.

The church may look rather austere from the outside, but the interiors are as tacky as a West End theatre. (Entrance is free, but you are encouraged to donate €2 when you leave. Alternatively, you can squeeze by the burly lady who guards the exit door. Best to wait, probably, for one of the other tourists to distract her with a question – that’s what I did, anyway.)

The street on the right hand side of the church, by the way, leads you straight to St Pauli – Reeperbahn, Star Club and all that. (Unfortunately, we had no time for that.)

Instead, we turn left out of the church, past the modern offices of Gruner & Jahr, one of Germany’s largest publishing houses, in the direction of the harbour, one of the ten largest in the world.

Turn left to head for the Speicherstadt (“warehouse town”), my favourite part of Hamburg and one of Europe’s greatest works of 19th century architectural engineering, grand and graceful at the same time, a cross between Venice and London’s old docklands. The buildings were all warehouses once, of course, but are today mainly occupied by theatre companies, museums and tourist attractions such as the “Hamburg Dungeon”.

I could easily have spent the rest of the day walking from canal to canal, but there was no time. Instead, we took the subway train back to the city centre (if you have a Länderticket or a QdL Ticket, you are also free to use subways and S-Bahn trains) and had just about enough time for a quiet cup of coffee outside in the April sun on Mönckebergstraße, the city’s main shopping street, 5 minutes away from the central train station.

By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker

 How about going to Hamburg? Have a look at our flights here!

Saint Ranieri is the patron of the Tuscan city of Pisa and of travellers. Spectacular celebrations in his honour and commemorating his death are held each year on 17 June and the previous day. The highlights are the Luminara di San Ranieri and the Regatta Storica, staged in some of the city’s most emblematic spots.

Luminara di San Ranieri – Pisa by Candlelight

On 16 June, as the sun begins to set, Pisa comes alight with the Luminara di San Ranieri. Thousands of lights appear in windows and on cornices, illuminating the outlines of buildings, churches and bridges and setting up a unique and very beautiful effect. Some 70,000 candles, known as lampanini or lumini, placed in cups and on candlesticks, are consumed in this spectacle of light. The display is magical and a stroll along the banks of the river Arno and across its bridges as you contemplate the reflections of the lights playing on the surface of the water is an unforgettable experience.

That night is the ideal time for visiting the city’s landmark buildings which, being lit up, provide an extraordinary sight. The 12th-century city walls on the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of the Miracles) frame a monumental complex consisting of the Duomo and the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Baptistery and the Monumental Cemetery – a whole historical complex enhanced by the candlelight. At 11 p.m. a great fireworks display starts up at the Cittadella Vecchia (Old Citadel), painting the sky of Pisa in a host of colours. That is when everybody congregates around the river Arno as it affords the best view of the spectacle.

Regatta Storica di San Ranieri 

On the following day, the feast of Saint Ranieri, the celebrations continue across the whole city, featuring music, dancing and banquets. Another noteworthy event in honour of the saint takes place that same day, the Regatta Storica di San Ranieri, a race between rowing boats representing Pisa’s four historical districts – San Francesco, San Martino, Santa Maria and Sant’ Antonio. The boats are reconstructions of the stefaniane, a typical rowing boat used by the Order of the Cavalieri di Santo Stefano.

Apart from the Leaning Tower, What Else is there to See?

Pisa is the jewel of Tuscany, a destination that attracts thousands of tourists eager to soak up its art and historical heritage. The birthplace of Galileo Galilei has a lot to offer, apart from the Leaning Tower. Corso Italiai s the city’s shopping precinct, the ideal place for picking up an Italian fashion garment or for enjoying the café terraces. Borgo Stretto, too, with its elegant bars and haute couture stores. This medieval alley eventually leads into the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights’ Square), the city’s historic centre. The square boasts centuries-old buildings, such as the Palazzo della Carovana, also known as the Palazzo dei Cavalieri, built as the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of St Stephen, which now houses one of Italy’s most prestigious universities, the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa. Opposite stands the Palazzo dell’Orologio (Clock Palace) with its two medieval towers. Legend has it that this palace was built over the remains of the Torre della Fame (Tower of Hunger) where, as cited in Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, the Conte Ugolino della Gherardesca was imprisoned, together with his sons, accused of treason by the archbishop. The key to their cell was thrown into the river Arno and they all died slowly of hunger.

Incidentally, Piazza Dante is another of the city’s landmarks. It provides smooth access into the alleyways of the medieval city with its countless bars and restaurants serving Tuscan cuisine. The food is excellent in Pisa and, by avoiding the more commercial circuits around the Leaning Tower, is not necessarily expensive.

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Fabio Gismondi | elenavataga | Federico Caboni | Alex | Alessandro | Guillaume Baviere

By Silvia Artaza from Gastronomistas

That Frankfurt is a place of contrasts is something you take in at first sight when you land at this German city. A skyline that rises over buildings from another era; a busy Turkish restaurant full of suited executives at lunchtime; a Japanese pâtisserie where you can just as well buy macarons as sit at its sushi bar.

We got away to Frankfurt for three days to find out what the city has to offer apart from the famous sausages it gives its name to. And we found out.

We used NH City as our headquarters. It's a very well located hotel, a stone's throw from Konstablerwache Square, where the pedestrian shopping area (Zeil) begins. There is a train station of the same name right there, with a direct line to the airport, which is an advantage worth considering when planning your trip. And if you like markets, the square has an interesting market of regional products at the weekend, with heaps of things to try from small-scale producers.

At Christmas, as in many German cities, street markets take centre stage, making this is a great time to visit Frankfurt. But undoubtedly the event in the city with the greatest international impact is the Book Fair. Held in October, it is the largest and most important book fair in the world, a showcase for publishers that attracts over 250,000 visitors each year.

It wasn't October, but we found a good book and headed off to look for those ten cafés where you could spend hours reading.

1- Iimori Pâtisserie & Restaurant. Macarons and Sushi Bar.

Very close to the cathedral, in the heart of Frankfurt, two discreet Japanese women welcome us to this original pâtisserie. A charming café to settle into and enjoy any of the sweet snacks from behind the glass counter: macarons, pastries, fine cakes, including green tea cake, fresh fruit tarts, etc. If you like tea, it's a place not to miss. And the same goes if you like Japanese food. Because upstairs you'll be surprised to find a sushi bar with a great choice of dishes both for lunch and dinner, as well as to take away.

There is a daily buffet breakfast with pastries, croissants, bread, fresh fruit with yoghurt, jams, chocolate cream, sausages and cheeses. And on Saturdays and Sundays there's brunch, where Iimori's sweet side is combined with a great selection of sushi and other Japanese specialities. (Braubachstraße 24)

2-Bitter & Zart. The pleasure of chocolate.

Without leaving this street, we switched from tea and pastries to chocolate in all its varieties. Bitter & Zart began as a shop offering fine chocolate. Tablets, pralines, chocolates, truffles, cocoa... of all the imaginable intensities and flavours (toasted almonds, Ceylon cinnamon, caramel, etc.).

But in 2012 an adjoining room, which they call the "living room", was opened. A cozy and inviting place to enjoy a coffee, tea, chocolate drink or juice, with something sweet or savoury from the counter display. If you come here you have to try the Bitter & Zart chocolate cake. (Braubachstraße 14)

 3-Frankfurter Kunstverein café/bar.

Located in the heart of Frankfurt near Römer square, Frankfurter Kunstverein is an art centre that pioneers in the production and exhibition of young and experimental artists. Its café/bar is, as you'd expect, a meeting place for creative minds, where artists and advertising people are to be seen with their laptops while having a cup of coffee.

The fresh homemade food is based on seasonal regional produce. They bake their own bread and the fruit juices are freshly squeezed. It's a great choice if you're looking for a place to have breakfast or enjoy a cocktail in a good atmosphere. (Steinernes Haus am Römerberg. Markt 44).

 4-Café Metropol. A must-do.

Also right by the cathedral, Café Metropol is one of the most common places to get together in the city. A good atmosphere and good prices. At its large wooden tables you can have coffee, one of the best homemade pies in Frankfurt, sandwiches, pasta and salads.

It is very bright and you can spend hours gazing through its large window onto a garden, which, coupled with its simplicity, makes it one of the nicest places we found to enjoy a good read. That said, you should know that for dinner (with its international menu) and breakfast at the weekend it's chock-a-block, so it's best to book. (Weckmarkt 13-15)

5-Breakfasts at Café Karin

Another place that is often full is Café Karin, which is a great place for breakfast. The variety is incredible. The breakfast menu uses the names of Frankfurt's various districts, with choices ranging from a classic croissant with butter and jam to a heaped plate of cheeses, meats, sweets... And of course, there are also fresh juices, coffee and muesli, plus the possibility of customising your breakfast with lots of extras. We could call it breakfast, or better still, brunch, because it's available until the evening. (Grosser Hirschgraben 28)

6-Café Albatros. An afterwork place with atmosphere

People had told us about Bockenheim, a neighbourhood we reached passing through a more residential area. Less lively than the centre, but with interesting places like this, Café Albatros, full of young people having a quiet beer after work.

Like Café Metropol, it closes after midnight during the week, so the atmosphere is lively at dinner time. And, of course, there is the Sunday brunch, with some 50 different hot and cold, sweet and savoury dishes. The menu is international, ranging from Italian pasta dishes and salads to tasty Samosas with yoghurt and mint sauce. (Kiesstrasse 27)

7-Roseli. An early evening café

A bit hidden away. This café is located in an alley in an area halfway between the shopping district (Zeil) and the main square (Römer). We liked it because it's small, intimate and very pleasant. And because it has a charming terrace away from the traffic for days with good weather.

Organic teas, coffees and irresistible cakes. But there are also savoury dishes like quiche, focaccia, panini and salads. Nearby Roseli there are other urbane alternatives worth dropping in at, like Brot und seine Freunde (a home bakery with coffees, sandwiches and sweets) and Souper! (with loads of great soups to eat in or take away). (Weißadlergasse 9)

8-History at the tables of Café Liebfrauenberg

Part of Frankfurt's history is definitely to be found here, in this café. Established over 120 years ago, it was and remains a place for social gatherings in the city centre. With its air of nostalgia and of being from another time, it is a must on a list like this, taking in this German city's cafés.

Coffees, teas, drinking chocolate and a variety of sweets to drive you mad. Pancakes, crepes and waffles, and also homemade cakes made with seasonal fruit. Don't miss the walnut cake. (Liebfrauenberg 24)

9-Cocktails and more at Moloko +

Neither Anthony Burgess's book nor Kubrick's film adaptation of it reveal its recipe, but we remember the Moloko Plus as the cocktail drunk by the characters in A Clockwork Orange. Its namesake in Frankfurt also began as a cocktail bar, but has now evolved into a non-stop concept where you can have everything from breakfast in the morning to a mojito at night. The interior design is excuse enough in itself to drop by. (Kurt-Schumacher-Straße 1)

10-Café Süden. Drop in to try its sweets and teas

We love to get off the tourist trail and so one afternoon we ended up in the Bornheim district. We were told that this is an area where locals hang out, which makes us like it even more. With places like this little café. Just four little tables and a bar at the back full of cakes. Really lovely, a place to enjoy a good tea in a candlelit atmosphere. To our surprise, it's the little brother of a Spanish food restaurant in the city! (Berger Strasse 239)

And don't miss…

Operation "Frankfurt beyond the frankfurter" achieved, but we must confess that we also tried a few of them. Which is why, along with all of these recommendations, we encourage you to not miss ...

A visit to a traditional cider (Apfelwein) bar, like Apfelwein Wagner in the Sachsenhausen district, with apple/cider wine, breaded cutlets (Schnitzel) with green sauce(Grünen Soße), which they make with “seven herbs” (borage, chervil, watercress, parsley, burnet, chives and sorrel), or a typical cream cheese with paprika served as a spread starter (Spundekas). (Schweizer Straße 71)

And you should also stroll around the daily market at Kleinmarkthalle, where you can stop off at the Schreiber stall to try some of its sausages. At mid morning there is usually a long queue of locals waiting their turn, but if you want a real frankfurt in Frankfurt, this is the place. (Hasengasse 5)

 Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

Welcome to Zurich West– the trendy, creative, gastronomic, nocturnal district of Zurich! It may not seem so, but this is Zurich, too! Forget everything you have learned and discard your picture postcards – no lake with crystal-clear water, no quaint streets or luxury stores; just brick, concrete and cranes surrounded by hoardings. Where’s the catch? Well, this is the anti-Zurich,the more casual, urbane and cosmopolitan precinct.

The fact is that all-powerful Zurich has undergone a radical facelift and its flagship is none other than Zurich West, its former industrial district. In less than two decades, it has become Switzerland’s engine of modernity, imbuing it with a trendiness on a par with Berlin, London and New York.

Once Upon a Time There Was An Industrial District…

Running alongside Hardbrücke, on the western side of the city, Kreis 5 or Industriequartier, as the area is also known, emerged as an industrial site in the 20th century. However, industrial activity in the area went into sharp decline in the late 1980s, after which derelict warehouses, factories and workshops were soon reclaimed by artists and designers from the underground scene. Alternative art venues were opened and illegal parties were hosted which became celebrated in half of Europe.

Full-scale change, however, arrived with the new millennium and Kreis 5 (meaning “District 5” in German) underwent a feverish transformation, which continues apace today. Now, where ships, soap and turbines were once manufactured, the machines have gone quiet and given way to art, design, gastronomy and music, as well as to businesses, flats and hotels. Attesting to the area’s industrial past is the overwhelming size of the streets, the monumental factory structures and the colossal railway tracks.

With an unabashed eclectic mix of past and future, brick buildings with steel and glass skyscrapers and a cityscape constantly being redefined, Zurich West exercises a magnetic pull that attracts the Swiss and foreigners alike, turning it into a seething, multicultural melting pot. Seduced by its alternative atmosphere and its formidable terrain, we start off on our journey!

Im Viadukt – Shop Till You Drop!

Chic, local designer stores, architects’ studios, cafés and organic food stalls rub shoulders in Im Viadukt, a vibrant shopping paradise built under the arches of the old rail bridge. Here you will find everything, from cut flowers to bicycle bells. Beware, though – you won’t pick up any bargains, as the idea of “cheap” is not included in the Swiss dictionary.

If you’re feeling peckish, the Markthalle offers zero-mile products, and its restaurant, fresh lunch fare at reasonable prices. Sundays are devoted to brunches, but book ahead it you want to avoid being crowded out. The upbeat ambience dovetails into the night and bars are full to bursting of young people sipping Prosecco in the Ambrosi, biding their time for some concert in the Bogen F.

Around Frau Gerolds Garten

A jumbled network of gardens, designer stores and dance clubs range back-to-back along Geroldstrasse. In the middle, a pile of transport containers reminiscent of a Lego on a grand scale, abandoned to their fate – this is Frau Gerolds Garten, an urban oasis which smacks of DIY and a hipster hubpar excellence. In summer, an open-air market springs up here on Saturdays, to be replaced in winter by fondues to beat the cold. It fills up at midday with people having coffee among plants and graffiti, and at night with those having their “first” before descending on the neighbouring clubs. Be sure to soak up the panoramic views from the upper terraces – the trains pass by on eye level and, if you’re lucky, you can make out the Alps in the distance.

A stone’s throw away lie two institutions of alternative clubbing. The iconic Hive is a temple of electronic music, while the veteran Supermarket attracts youngsters who dance to house and techno until dawn. Indeed, when it comes to clubbing, Zurich is queen and Zurich West the base camp for the electronic and experimental scene.

Before leaving the area, we do a spot of shopping. At Bogen 33 and Walter you can pick up vintage furniture. And, in a 25-metre-high tower pile of containers, the Swiss label Freitag flaunts its recycled bags made of truck awnings. A recycled building for a recycled product – Freitag has become a veritable symbol of Zurich West’s contemporary industrial style and its leading ambassador. The views from the rooftop are amazing; there is even a telescope if you want to capture things in detail!

Touching the Stars in Prime Tower

126 metres and 36 storeys establish Prime Tower as the tallest building in Zurich. The green-skinned building was unveiled in 2011 and towers over the city, acting as the new standard-bearer of modern architecture and economic development in the area.

Set on the top floor is the Clouds restaurant, which does its name proud – touching the sky looks more feasible from here! The views over the lake, the old town and the Alps are breathtaking, as are their prices. On the ground floor, Hotel Rivington & Sons takes us back to the 1920s underground in New York, when the sale of alcohol was banned under the Prohibition and bars were camouflaged under the hood of shops and hotels. Treat yourself to a cocktail at any hour – the selection is enormous.

Schiffbau and Puls 5 – Avant-garde and Tradition

Not far from here stand the shipyards of Schiffbau, where vessels were once built to order from around the world. They now host the most avant-garde events in the famous Schauspielhaus Theatre, and the best jazz concerts in the city at Moods, while the glamorous La Salle offers French and Italian cuisine in an outdoor area surrounded by glass walls. Drinks are served in the popular Nietturm Bar, a stunning glass cube crowning the building, with spectacular panoramic views.

One street down, night owls are gearing up for night action.Exilfeatures a programme of alternative parties and concerts, ranging from rock to hip hop, while Blok Clubis dedicated to international electronic music.

A stone’s throw away lies Les Halles, a delightful bistro with Parisian flourishes. Housed in an old warehouse, this popular meeting point is raucous and unkempt, with second-hand artefacts and vintage publicity posters. You can purchase one of the host of bicycles scattered about the interior while ordering their speciality –moules-frites (mussels with French fries).

Modernity and tradition intermingle in the former steel foundry, the site of the Puls 5 complex, a colossal, 5000 m² construction where the huge, erstwhile production floor is encircled by restaurants, shops, offices, a fitness club and flats. Enhanced by such features as steel girders, bare piping and a large industrial crane, this space hosts events of all kinds and embodies the alliances between past and future, as well as the merger between different uses that coexist in one place. If you happen to come here, be sure to try the Restaurant Gnüsserei, surmounted in the centre by the centennial steelworks dome.

Löwenbräu – Voguish Contemporary Art

Contemporary art has moved to Kreis 5 and set up shop in the former Löwenbräu brewery. Its red brick walls now enclose the Löwenbräukunst, a complex dedicated to cutting-edge art. Here, emerging artists from all over the world showcase their work in the Kunsthalle Zürich and Migros Museum of Contemporary Art. The building is also the site of several international art galleries, notably the acclaimed Hauser & Wirth, and of Zurich’s leading art bookshop,Kunstgriff,where you should make a point of browsing their extensive book list.

And here, with the colossal Swissmill as our guiding landmark, a concrete behemoth inaugurated in 2016 used to store grain, and the second tallest tower in the city, we wind up our tour. We have arrived at the river Limmat– time to have a dip!

Be sure to discover this alternative Zurich – you have daily Vuelings here!

Text by Núria Gurina i Puig for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Zürich Tourism/Elisabeth Real and Núria Gurina