The food thing in Moscow is rather odd – with exceptions, it’s usually simpler and better quality in economical eateries than in pretentious upmarket restaurants. Why should that be? We could go off on a historical, aesthetic, cultural, existential rant that would lead us back to Lenin’s czars, via the Cold War, and end up reflecting on certain post-Perestroika aesthetic criteria affecting much of Russia’s ruling classes, Yeltsin’s new rich now happily ensconced in capitalism. That aversion to minimalism; that Russianhorror vacuiexuded largely by the prevailing fashion, architecture and – of course – gastronomy.

Hence, by adopting the mantra that less is more – an idea many Russians eschew – you will win the gastronomic battle in a city as fascinating as it is hostile, but overwhelmingly beautiful, so different from what we pictured in our mind’s-eye. A city in which you need to have all your wits about you, the impelling need to come to grips with everything which is the driving force behind any journey. And, remain impervious to the odd diatribe hurled at you by Russians of any age and condition, who vent all their pent-up energy just to make it quite clear from the word go that they detest you and everything you stand for.

And, once you have experienced the cold and have been shouted at in Russian; once you have strolled along those huge avenues designed for tanks rather than people, and discovered, to your dismay, that in many respects Moscow is more like London than Moscow, then you will realise you have gained greater insight into the 20th century. And, that nobody who has not borne the brunt of being yelled at forcefully in Russian at least once in their life is in a position to voice an opinion about last century, or about its legacy, its influence on us and, in short, about who we are.

However, as we dedicated long, endless hours of strolling about to existential reflection, we also ate. At times, amazingly poor food, in mainly pseudo-modern restaurants. At others, very tasty food, in those places we are interested in here – notably more modest restaurants. Here, then, is the selection of our ten favourite restaurants in Moscow:

1. Caffe del Parco (Via di Camaldoli, 7)

Take note, hipsters. This will be your favourite restaurant in Moscow, located in what is surely about to become your landmark district in the city – Red October – alongside the river, by way of a Russian version of Williamsburg-Malasaña-Shoreditch still in the making, and that is the best part about it. There aren’t many establishments there yet, although there is the odd interesting store, a bookshop and a good number of restaurants with recycled furniture, bars, DJs and nightlife. Caffe del Parco, recently opened by a Sicilian who settled in Moscow some years ago, is a charming, minimalist café-restaurant where they have recovered the nonna’s recipes and where we were lucky enough to taste one of the best risottos ever. Just another of the thousands of paradoxes Moscow metes out to the visitor.

2. Cafe Mart

Pressing on with our modern streak, this cafe, one of two branches of the Moscow Modern Art Museum, is located in a delightful garden adorned with statues by the Georgian artist, Tsereteli, and packed with families dedicated to the noble art of brunch, with a host of children scuttling about the dining-room or participating in one of the workshops held inside. Delicious coffee, pastries, sandwiches and the odd dish on the simple, unpretentious menu featuring a combination of French cuisine with Georgian specialities in a setting that could well be somewhere in Berlin or Amsterdam.

3. Harat’s Pub

This small, cosy Irish pub on Arbat street, a broad pedestrian avenue that acts as the nerve centre of the city’s shopping and leisure milieu, happens to be one of the few options for having a drink. It is an unusual spot, run by a friendly Muscovite and former resident of Andalusia who loves Latin culture to the extent that he cares less about heading an Irish pub and is unfazed by its siting in one of Moscow’s mainstream precincts where one would expect to find some Russification, rather than forays into the cosmopolitan. He and his rock clientele seem to be enthusiasts of the Spanish beat, so that when you step inside you are hit by a full-blown “Lega-lega-li-za-ción” seemingly blaring out from some boomboxes. Indeed, the crowd here are fans of Spain, Ska-P, imported birras and Ireland in all their magnitude, and this strange yet endearing mix makes for one of Moscow’s most entertaining bars.

4.  Varenichnaya N.1 (Arbat, 29)

This is our favourite restaurant in the city, an unpretentious, pleasant, centrally located and economical eatery also on Arbat street which offers traditional Russian cuisine in the form of such dishes as vareniki (a pasta pie with various fillings, topped with a delicious sauce), pelmini (a similar dish of Ukrainian origin) and chebureki (traditional meat-filled pasties). They also have a selection of traditional pancakes, cocktails with or without alcohol, coffee and homemade pastries. All set in large, crowded but very cosy premises with motley adornments revealing extraordinary good taste juxtaposed with others striking one as just the opposite. This matters not the least when you sink your teeth into one of the economically priced delicacies served by charming staff who, surprisingly, are able to communicate in English.

5. Varvary

A rundown of gastronomy in Moscow is not complete without mention of Anatoly Komm, the country’s first chef to earn a Michelin star, who has an avant-garde restaurant offering haute cuisine known as Varvary. If you can afford it, it is worth booking a table in the dining-room run by this eccentric and unclassifiable chef who applies the latest cutting-edge techniques to a base of traditional Russian cooking (soups, smoked food). Komm regrets the terrible autarky Russia is going through and the indigenous people’s reluctance to open up to influences from neighbouring Europe, and he must know what he’s talking about. This is not the case with his luxury Muscovite restaurant, which offers molecular cuisine for customers with informed tastes, worlds apart from those “new rich”, as Kromm puts it, practically uneducated and with rather pompous tastes. The dishes crafted by this sensitive, art-loving man are noteworthy for their spectacular aesthetic, among other things.

6. Monsieur Croissant (Baumanskaya, 42)

You need to move away from the centre and approach the area of Baumanskaya, which we strongly urge you to do if you want to discover the real Moscow, which is much warmer and welcoming, far from the inclemencies of a centre as hostile as it is spectacular. And, if you decide to confront the beautiful although complicated Moscow metro system, this small restaurant is a great choice, whether you want to breakfast on one of its buns or pastries or have a simple but well prepared lunch, such as pasta with vegetables or the soup of the day. Nearby is a Hotel Mercure, where we happen to be staying, at a laughable price compared to downtown rates and just two metro stops from Red Square.

7. Tamerlan

This mega-restaurant with its mock luxury comes with a clientele dressed as if they’re were all attending a wedding downing vodkas like they were water. This Asian restaurant is a good option if you’re feeling like some glamour, as the Eurasian cuisine is outstanding, the price, reasonable and the decor, striking and attractive.

8. Chemodan (Gogolevskiy Blvd., 25/1)

It would be unforgivable to leave Moscow without having dined at least once in Chemodan, a delightful, absolutely unclassifiable restaurant that breaks the mould of what one would imagine contemporary Moscow to be like. Chemodan is located in the vicinity of Arbat and has an ambience (with its grand lamps, wallpaper, carpets and paintings hung on the walls) more reminiscent of a bar of intellectuals in the Paris of the twenties than what you would expect in Putin’s Russia. As you open the door and are met by a charming little old man, with the sound of Bésame mucho in the background, you know you’ve come to the right place. There, you give yourself over to cuisine with Russian roots, selecting from a well-worked menu featuring pampered, sensitively crafted dishes from all over the country.

9. Café Pushkin

Only if you have around €300 in your pocket should you venture into Café Pushkin, a legendary locale which is worth mentioning for figuring in all possible world rankings for both the best restaurants and the most beautiful ones. Don, therefore, your best attire and take your place like some Cinderella in this majestic environment lined with fine woods and where even the most secluded corner is lavished with tasteful luxury. Prepare to savour Russian cuisine with French touches – or, might that be the other way around? Despite the charm of the establishment, however, the dishes may not satisfy those diners seeking haute cuisine in its pure state.

10. Beverly Hills Diner

Lastly, a big lark, which we’re eager to not leave unmentioned as it is surely the most telling joke we have seen in Moscow. This is the most American of eateries, where you would expect Olivia Newton-John to make her entry at any time. It stands in downtown Moscow, with neon lights that appear to be proudly blaring out to the world that – yes – they won the Cold War. You bite your tongue and see for yourself, with some resentment, that you’re not quite sure what victory is being celebrated. You realise that, after so much salmon and Russian sauces, what you really fancy is the pleasure of the familiar, being able to finally sink your teeth into a hamburger.

Come and experience it for yourself! Check out our flights here

Text and photos by Laura Conde (Gastronomistas)

Ancient ruins where time stands still in the capital of Greece rub shoulders with a signature cuisine that has successfully adapted to the global evolution in gastronomy with creativity and in good taste. Athens currently treasures “coolinary” venues as attractive as its archaeological heritage.

Far from becoming weighed down by traditional cuisine and local products, Athens has managed to craft its own gastronomic discourse beyond both private homes and the street food championed by souvlakia – those at O Kostas are sublime! – and the offerings to be had at the Athens Street Food Festival. Nowadays you can feast handsomely in restaurants with fully-fledged table service off the tourist track, as well as drink a toast to Greece making “suitable progress” at Baba Au Rum, one of the best and prettiest cocktail bars in the world.

Taking pride in a paradoxically rich land, Greek chefs prove to be deeply knowledgeable about Mediterranean cuisine in all its immensity. This forms the base on which they craft the creative gastronomy which endows the city with the culinary diversity it deserves. Be it in the guise of showcooking, with the kitchen in full view of the dining tables, displaying fancy avant-garde techniques with final flourish on the table, or as a subtle, elegant exercise, yet equally compelling on the palate.

The standout signature restaurants of Athens are, however, few and far between. One’s choice of venue depends on each person’s penchant when it comes to haute cuisine – finger food, tasting menus and endless yet memorable servings. In terms of value for money and the requisite balance between dining-room and kitchen, the best of the pack is Aleria. The warm welcome, the nod to Virginia Wolf and an unimpetuous menu bathed in the native blue and white make this restaurant a flavourful concentration of classicism and modernity, as invested in their well executed dishes. With the return of the good weather, lunching or dining in their inner patio is a delightful experience.

A stone’s throw from the Michelin one-starred Aleria is Funky Gourmet, a two-star which explores molecular cuisine to the deepest depths, sparking surprises at table on account of their explosive bites. An alternative halfway between the previous two eateries is Hytra, a panoramic restaurant with a reasonably priced menu, exquisite confectionery and an on-site cocktail bar for guests eager to prolong their meal with an after-dinner drink or those who just come for a tipple.

Lastly, the long-standing Spondi is a classic of eminently trustworthy contemporary cuisine, as attested by the string of distinctions and awards they have earned in the course of time.

Where to Sleep

Located in the emblematic Syntagma square, which most rooms and suites with a terrace look onto, the NJV Athens Plaza, a hotel which is part of the LVX Collection, allows you to escape from the urban hubbub and admire the Acropolis from a distance. This is the ideal accommodation if you want to be in the heart of everything, as it is very near the big shopping precincts and the city’s major attractions. Their bar with a view is one of the most evocative and sought-after common areas.

Book your Vueling to Athens and discover the most creative facet of their cuisine.

Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com

No district of Barcelona has the flavour and personality of Gràcia. The area brings together artists, long-standing neighbours, design and fashion stores and some of the city’s liveliest restaurants and bars. A perennial mix of traditional values and the latest trends, Gràcia is always up with the pulse of the times, yet retains the essence that makes it the favourite haunts of many Barceloners.

As we love strolling leisurely through the area and taking in the atmosphere, we hit the streets to unearth the seven must-visit venues – shops, bars and restaurants – for tapping into the true heartbeat of Gràcia.

Magnesia

Leticia, the owner of Magnesia, draws on the work of local and international artists, showcased in what is one of the best graphic stores in town. The prints rub shoulders with ceramics from the United States, cushions by Shara Porter and jewellery by craftsmen and women from Barcelona. You will be enamoured of this venue and are bound to emerge with something under your arm.

Can Tresó

Located on one of Gràcia’s major thoroughfares, the Can Tresó restaurant can go by unnoticed from the outside. But, once you’ve dined there, you will never forget its presence. The tapas are great – the patatas bravas outstanding – and the signature menu of the day on weekdays is really delicious.

La Mueblerí

This vintage-look store is run by a mother and son. With their finely tuned selection of furniture and other objects, it’s easy to fall for a Scandinavian sideboard, a Vitra table from the 70s or a Manises lamp. What’s more, you can find both designer pieces and other reasonably priced wares to suit all budgets. The premises are spacious and well decorated. Here you breathe closeness, delicateness and good taste, which makes it quite special.

Viblioteca

This is a classic among lovers of cheese, sausage, tartare and good food. Done out in white lines, this restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in Barcelona when it comes to discovering new wines and pairing them with a first-class culinary selection. We recommend you talk to Yolanda, the owner, and let her suggest what to order.

Alzira

Mónica is one of the veterans of vintage in the Gràcia district. Her exquisite sense of taste manifests in a combination of industrial and rustic furniture with some designer pieces, all imbued with a Bochic aesthetic, making this a must-visit store for antique hunters in Barcelona. The bright, airy premises include a patio where one could relax for hours, if one had the time. The furniture and decoration section is rounded off by a frankly irresistible area featuring retro brooches.

Bobby Gin

Going out for a drink in Gràcia at night would never be the same without Bobby Gin. This sophisticated bar serves some of the best gin tonics in Barcelona. Care has been lavished on their decor, down to the last detail, with restored antique doors, and vintage and industrial furniture. But, what makes this venue unique is the large selection of premium gins and tonics. If you are hard put to make a choice, the staff – who really know their stuff – will help you decide. And, if you’d like something to nibble on, themini-coques de Llavaneras pastries are a delicacy you should make a point of tasting.

Casa Atlántica

Hand-painted ceramic crockery, wooden miniatures and retro lamps are some of the items you can find in Casa Atlántica. A store-workshop full of charm opened by the fashion designer, Belén Martínez, and the Portuguese interior designer, Lester Barreto. The interior is unmistakeably Atlantic in appearance and is redolent with priceless details and furniture designed by the owners themselves, transporting you from the Mediterranean to the other side of the Peninsula.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and venture into Gràcia, to be seduced by its charm.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Louvain, regarded as the Flemish Salamanca for its large student population during the academic year, is the ideal destination to head for on a getaway to Brussels as it is less than half an hour’s train ride away.

Louvain and its University

The university is a major feature of Louvain (Leuven, in Flemish). Not only is it a historic institution – it was founded in 1425 – but an international student magnet as it attracts large numbers of foreign Erasmus scholarship holders each year. Many of these will be unaware that Erasmus of Rotterdam, after whom the exchange programme of almost thirty years’ standing is named, actually used to lecture at Louvain University.

No wonder, then, that the population of this Flemish city increases by around 20,000 youngsters at the start of each academic year. They study during the day and hit the town by night, turning Louvain into one of the most fun spots in Europe. Come heat or cold, many of these students congregate in the Oude Markt, a square packed with cafés, pubs and restaurants, compounding what is considered to be Europe’s longest bar counter.

In the morning, many of these students make up for the previous night’s debauchery in the library, located in the Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein square. The library building, formerly sited on the Naamsestraat, was destroyed in World War I and rebuilt with Belgian and American funding. The square is embellished by a striking landmark – a beetle pierced by a huge, three-meter-high needle. It was unveiled in 2005 to mark the 575th anniversary of the University.

Louvain’s Historic City Centre

Some of the most emblematic buildings in Louvain, the capital of Flemish-Brabant province, are located in the Grote Markt or Main Square. The most remarkable landmark is the City Hall, an example of the mid-15th-century Brabantine Gothic, with over 230 small sculptures adorning the facade. Noteworthy, too, is St Peter’s Church with its unfinished, low belltower and the Neoclassical building known as the Round Table (Tafelrond), currently the site of the National Bank. Starting from the Grote Markt, if you head along Bondgenotenlaan street, you come to Martelarenplein (Martyrs’ Square) with its marked Spanish air, redesigned as it was by the architect, Manuel de Solà-Morales, between 1998 and 2004.

Like the city of Mechelen, Louvain has a magnificent, 12th-century Grand Béguinage. This secluded precinct is just a fifteen minute walk from the centre and once housed the Beguines, a female religious community that led an austere life. Covering an area of six hectares, the Grand Béguinage is now the residence of many exchange professors and Erasmus students. Bear in mind that Flemish beguinages are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Other places of interest include St Gertrude’s Abbey, the Church of St Michael – a masterpiece of the Flemish Baroque – and the statue of Fons Sapientiae (Source of Wisdom), by the Belgian artist, Jef Claerhout, which is decked out in different costumes at various times of the year.

Gastronomy and Beer in Louvain

Beer is a must in Louvain, and several beer routes have been set up, including a tour of the Domus brewery and that of Stella Artois, the best known brand in the city. Several restaurants in town offer menus paired with local beer, notably Zarza and EssenCiel, the latter situated on the crowded Muntstraat.

Now that you know how to find your way around Louvain, get your Vueling to Brussels and enjoy the university city!

Text by María Jesús Torné from tusdestinos.net

Images by Toerisme Leuven, Frédéric Van Hoof, milo-profi.be